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Portugieser

• All Watches

The Portugieser is one of the oldest and best-known watches from IWC. No other watch family incorporates so many of the technical tours de force of haute horlogerie.

Portugieser Reference 325

At the end of the 1930s, IWC built at the request of two Portuguese merchants, a large wristwatch with the precision of a pocket watch. For this purpose, they used the pocket watch movement calibers 74 and 98. The noticeably large and striking wristwatch first was launched in 1939.

Portugieser Anniversary Wristwatch

On the occasion of the company’s 125th anniversary, IWC decided to bring the special large Portugieser watch back to life with a new limited edition. A special feature was the view of the movement through a transparent sapphire-glass back. The calibre 9828 in the modern Portugieser was based on the original pocket watch calibre 98.

Portugieser Minute Repeater

Shortly after the market launch of the Portugieser anniversary watch in 1993, a movement fulfilling the most exacting demands of high-end watchmaking began to appear in the collection: the Portugieser Minute Repeater (Reference 5240).

Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante

A watch “that had never existed before, even back then” was the slogan at the unveiling of the Portugieser Chrono-Rattrapante (Reference 3712). It was an apt statement because it was the first time a Portugieser and a chronograph had been combined in the same case, and the result needed to be something extraordinary.

Portugieser Automatic 2000

To mark the start of the new millennium, IWC decided to write a new chapter in the history of Schaffhausen in the year 2000: the Portugieser Automatic 2000 (Reference 5000), with a completely newly designed movement. The 5000 calibre contained a power reserve of 7 days and the Pellaton winding system.

Portugieser Perpetual Calendar

In 2003 IWC launched the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar (Reference 5021). In a unique and very special way, this timepiece embodied all the watchmaking expertise of the Schaffhausen company. IWC combined its in-house 5000 caliber with the perpetual calendar module developed by Kurt Klaus.

Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère

With its iconic design, the Portugieser family had included almost every imaginable classic complication in the history of watchmaking. In 2004 the most mythical of them all, the tourbillon, was introduced. The Tourbillion Mystere (Reference 5042) was based on an IWC in-house construction from the 1990s.

Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Reference 3902) is the sportiest timepiece in a watch family steeped in tradition. Originally, the Yacht Club was first launched in 1967 and became one of the most successful IWC watches of the 20th century. IWC decided to integrate the “new” generation of Yacht Club models into the Portugieser family.

Portugieser Sidérale Scafusia

In 2011, IWC bestowed upon the watchmaking world a masterpiece of haute horlogerie. The Portugieser Sidérale Scafusia (Reference 5041) represents 10 years of solid development work by a team of engineers, watchmakers and scientists. It is the most exclusive and complicated mechanical watch ever made by IWC.

Portugieser Annual Calendar

In 2015, IWC celebrated the 75th year of the Portugieser. The newly developed annual calendar complication displayed the month, date and day in three separate windows on the dial and required a manual adjustment just once every year.

Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “150 Years”

To mark its 150 year anniversary, IWC Schaffhausen presented the Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “150 Years”. Limited to just 15 pieces, this stunning platinum timepiece features a white dial with a lacquer finish and blue hands. The manufacture calibre 94805 combines for the first time a constant force tourbillon with a single moon phase display that needs to be corrected by just one day every 577.5 years.

Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide

The Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide represents a technical highlight. For the first time, in this model, IWC presents its newly developed tide indicator. A totalizer at “6 o’clock” shows the times of high and low tide. Positioned at “12 o’clock” is an IWC speciality, the double moon phase display. It has been expanded to show the spring and neap tides and thus provides more information about the strength of current tides.

DESIGN HIGHLIGHTS

The Portugieser – a style icon

The iconic design of Portugieser watches, with their imposing size, simple Arabic numerals, slim feuille hands and railway-track-style chapter ring, originated in the 1930s, when it was well ahead of its time. Today, the original, clearly organized dial with its simple design remains an unrivalled style icon.

Featured Portugieser Watches

With a design that is as crisp as it is timelessly modern, the IWC Portugieser has turned into an icon of watchmaking.

Portugieser Chronograph Year of the Dragon

CHF 9'200

Portugieser Chronograph

CHF 8'200

VIEW ALL PORTUGIESER WATCHES

An Old Acquaintance: Reviewing the IWC Portugieser Chronograph

IWC has added several new models to the Portugieser family in recent years. One of them is the iconic chronograph. In this latest visit to the WatchTime archives, we tested this watch, our good old friend, which boasts a trendy green dial and is equipped with a manufacture caliber.

The Portugieser is one of IWC’s oldest and most prestigious product lines, with a dial that has hardly changed over 80 years. “That’s why we approached the project of designing the new collection very carefully and with tremendous respect for history,” Christoph Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC, and Creative Director Christian Knoop explained.

The Portugieser’s Handsome Dial Remains Nearly Unchanged The impressive result puts every doubt to rest. Glancing at the attractive face of the Portugieser Chronograph, you instantly recognize a cherished old acquaintance, although the dial of our test watch is now a trendy green, and plays with the light. Another version comes with a burgundy dial. There’s also a boutique edition with an elegant blue dial and a rose-gold case.

The very distinctive, clear and functional dial is 38 mm in diameter and has recessed counters at 6 and 12, slim feuille hands and applied Arabic numerals. These features have so strongly influenced the Portugieser chronograph that even in the new version, no designer dared to replace the partly cut-away numerals 6 and 12 with arguably “simpler” index strokes. Comparing this latest update to the last fine tuning about 10 years ago, we find that the calibrations on the counters with inward-facing numerals, the lettering, and the slender quarter-second scale on the flange have all remained unchanged. As a whole, the latest version of this timeless watch retains its own character and remains loyal to its origins as a time-measuring instrument — not least because of the finely calibrated elapsed-seconds scale. With three intervening strokes between each pair of full-second lines, its markings correctly match the 4-Hz rhythm of a modified version of a movement from IWC’s recent 69000 caliber family.

IWC’s Favorite, at Last with a Manufacture Caliber Designated as number 69355, this caliber is the essential new feature in the latest Portugieser chronograph. As one of the most popular items in IWC’s portfolio, now it’s finally equipped with a manufacture caliber. This was not yet the situation a decade ago, when the still-young Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph was given a manufacture movement from the 89000 caliber series, which was introduced in 2007. The 69000 caliber family, which made its debut 10 years later, underwent four years of further development and was encased for the first time in the Ingenieur Chronograph in 2017.

With the newly designed 69000 caliber series, IWC is gradually replacing chronograph movements based on the ETA/Valjoux 7750 and at the same time offering a less costly alternative to the 89000 series of manufacture calibers. Our test watch comes with a $7,950 price tag. The least costly variant of the new Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph with Caliber 89361 sells for $12,100. Paying the additional charge also gets you a flyback function and a longer power reserve of 68 hours. The power reserve of Caliber 69355, on the other hand, is rather short by contemporary standards, at 46 hours, and this caliber relies on an index to adjust its hairspring’s active length — a simpler method of finely adjusting the rate than the eccentric screws on the rim of Caliber 89361’s balance in the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph.

Otherwise, chronograph Caliber 69355 similarly offers a sturdy and precise column wheel to control the stopwatch functions, a rocking pinion to couple the chronograph with the flow of force from the gear train and a modern bidirectional effective self-winding mechanism. This automatic winding, however, is not the Pellaton mechanism (named after the former IWC engineer) that’s installed in the calibers of the 89000 series, but a modern development from the Richemont Group.

The Movement’s Rate Upholds the Promise of Quality The positioning of the subdial for the continually running seconds at the 6 is unusual because most chronographs put this indicator at the 9. While other modifications of Caliber 69000 have a counter for 12 elapsed hours at the 9, it’s absent from the Portugieser chronograph, as is the date across the dial at the 3. With reference to this watch’s history and to further enhance the harmony of its design, this newest Portugieser only has a 30-minute counter at the 12 and no luminous material on its numerals, indexes or hands.

Turning the timepiece over and peering through its back, where four screws affix the sapphire crystal, you can discover numerous details typical of IWC’s caliber construction, e.g., circular patterns in Geneva-stripes style, satin finishes, circular graining and a skeletonized rotor engraved with the words “Probus Scafusia.” Our test confirmed that the automatic movement upholds this promise of quality. It ran extremely well and achieved well-balanced rate values. Its performance on the wrist was similar to the rate measured by our timing machine when the watch was fully wound. Timekeeping in chronograph mode is likewise impeccable, with an average daily deviation of about 1 second.

The Portugieser Chronograph Reflects Timelessness and Modernity The stopwatch functions are controlled by pressing mushroom-shaped push-pieces. The pressure points here are secure and the buttons run smoothly to reliably trigger the column wheel. The knurled crown is user friendly and can easily be pulled outward into the hand-setting position. These components complement the classic Portugieser case, which reveals its conical contours when viewed from the side. The narrow, polished bezel extends beyond the middle part of the case, thus providing plenty of space for the dial. The screwed back tapers toward the sapphire crystal with a concave edge curve. The case’s laterally satin-finished middle section slopes very strongly downward to the strap lugs. All this, together with the high-quality alligator leather strap and its convenient butterfly folding clasp makes it comfortable to wear on the wrist.

A quick look at the wrist immediately offers a pleasant surprise because our “good old friend” now indulges in a lively play of colors. Viewed through its domed and anti-reflective sapphire crystal, the dial doesn’t appear green from every angle, but changes its appearance from dark green to nearly black, which endows this classic watch with understated elegance. Whether by coincidence or on purpose, in this way too the Portugieser chronograph embodies the timeless modernity for which IWC is known and appreciated.

SPECS: Manufacturer: IWC Schaffausen, Baumgartenstrasse 15, 8200 Schaffausen, Switzerland Reference number: IW371615 Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph (central elapsed- seconds hand, counter for up to 30 elapsed minutes) Movement: IWC 69355 based on caliber family 69000, automatic, 28,800 vph, 27 jewels, Glucydur balance, Nivarox hair-spring, Etachron fine adjustment via bi-partite index, Incabloc shock absorption, 46-hour power reserve, diameter = 30.0 mm, height = 7.90 mm Case: Stainless steel with domed sapphire crystal above dial anti-reflectively treated on both sides, sapphire crystal in caseback, water resistant to 30 meters Strap and cla­­sp: Black alligator leather strap with double folding clasp Rate results (deviation in seconds per 24 hours, fully wound/after 24 hours: On the wrist +1.6 Dial up +3.1 / +1.4 Dial down +2.5 / +0.0 Crown up -0.5 / -3.5 Crown down +4.1 / +4.4 Crown left -0.3 / -0.8 Greatest deviation 4.6 / 7.9 Average deviation +1.8 / +0.3 Average amplitude: Flat positions 321° / 292° Hanging positions 296° / 267° Dimensions: Diameter = 40.95 mm, height = 13.08 mm, weight = 90.0 g Variations: With burgundy dial (Ref. IWC371616; $7,950); Boutique Edition with rose-gold case, blue dial and blue strap (Ref. IW371614; $17,800) Price: $7,950

A very interesting and professional article. Generally think the portugieser, especially with the manufactur movement, is a Wonderful watch with is pretty much underrated.

Brilliant watch and hard to evaluate. I have a 2001 version, unworn and in a wooden box. It is a limited edition split second model and not worth a lot as with many high end watches. As with most IWCs hard to better and very underrated.

Love this watch! From the first time I saw it in the metal, I wanted it. I have the blue dial 150th anniversary version which I just adore.

My son got one 20 years ago and is still very happy with this wonderful timepiece. Within my vast collection I have various IWC, including a priceless D’Avinci, and hold the marque in very high esteem.

Nice watch, but for the price asked I`d probably buy something else…

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IWC Portuguese Yacht Club Rose Gold Chronograph Watch IW390209 Box Papers

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IWC Portuguese Yacht Club Rose Gold Chronograph Watch IW390209 Box Papers. Automatic self-winding movement with 68 hour power reserve. 18K rose gold case 45.4 mm in diameter. Exhibition sapphire crystal case back. 18K Rose gold bezel. Scratch resistant sapphire crystal. Ardoise Grey dial with arabic numerals. Minute markers around the outer rim. Date window at the 3 o'clock. Two chronograph sub-dials -- 60 minutes and 12 hours. Red central seconds counter. Black rubber strap with 18K rose gold tang buckle.

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Excellent and professional all the time ,perosnal help from mr michael cash It was a real pleasure to buy from SwissWatchExpo

Great experience working with the SwissWatchExpo team! Michael was my main POC and he was great! The watches were exactly as described and the purchase process was very simple. It would be nice if they provided a tracking number for the shipping as the system they used in my case was not accurate. Having said that, the watches arrived on time and in excellent condition. I will definitely be using them again.

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We had a great experience with Swiss Watch expo! We worked with VLAD and he was very helpful and patient with us throughout our experience. This company has a great selection of Swiss watches and we especially liked the 10 day return policy, I would suggest a faster shipping method in the future.

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I’ve purchased several watches from SWE over the years and the timepieces I have received have always been nicer than the photos and description. The Omega Seamaster Professional I recently purchased is no exception - I will be back!

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SwissWatchExpo made a sizeable purchase less stressful. After months of lurking on the website, I saw a Rolex in a configuration that was just PERFECT for me. I reached out to get some additional information, and Jason called me back on my cell within minutes. After a couple of days of thinking it over (with several texts to Jason), I went ahead and pulled the trigger. I wanted to pay for the purchase using two different methods, and Jason made that happen very quickly. Another online vendor had previously told me that what I wanted was simply not possible with them. Two days later, I had my new watch in hand. With the rise of high-end super clones, I was concerned about receiving a counterfeit, so SwissWatchExpo's reputation and guarantee was comforting. But more that that, their price was reasonable and competitive with other vendors. I cannot recommend SwissWatchExpo enough, and look forward to my next purchase with them.

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Doing on line purchases can be scary BUT NOT MY EXPERIENCE with SwissWatchExpo. with the on line resources for fetting and feedback it was great. every one I dealt with was courteous and professional. Best online experience ever. And my new watch Is fabulous!!!!!!!

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This was my first Rolex so I was unaware that it would stop working when not worn for a time. I texted my concerns and received a call "immediately". The representative, Jason, was very friendly and helpful. He explained how the watch works and walked me through setting the time. I was extremely pleased with my customer service experience. Thank you Jason.

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Purchasing a luxury watch online can be nerve-wracking, but Swiss Watch Expo has earned my complete trust - and repeat business! Recently I bought my second timepiece from SWE, and both experiences have been absolutely superb. First-Rate Service; From browsing the extensive selection to receiving my latest timepiece, the service has been great. Spot-On Descriptions; The product descriptions are meticulously accurate. No surprises here! You get exactly what you see, and the quality is exceptional. My new watch is stunning and runs flawlessly, just as advertised. Seamless Buying Experience; Both of my online purchases were incredibly smooth. The website is user-friendly and secure, and the checkout process is as easy as it gets. Overall, I cannot recommend Swiss Watch Expo highly enough. They've earned my loyalty with their exceptional service, accurate descriptions, and commitment to customer satisfaction.

Brian McDonald

Super easy transaction. They were very good about communicating in a timely manner. Watch was exactly what I wanted and in mint condition just as described. Will definitely purchase from them again the future. 5 stars top to bottom.

Had an absolutely wonderful experience working with SWE to purchase a long time personal grail watch. The process was incredibly easy, stress-free, and transparent. I worked with Meg who made me feel at ease and comfortable throughout the entire process from initial inquiry to delivery for a valuable piece. The watch was in spectacular mint condition and I could not be happier. Shipping was super fast, secure, and organized with great communication at every step of the process. At time of purchase they took me on a video tour of their physical space in Atlanta which was impressive and I got to view the watch live in real time. The price was super fair and transparent throughout discussions considering the quality and condition of the watch from the 2000s. They have a great collection of offerings including some long term relatively rare grail Pateks and I will definitely be back for future purchases. I can’t recommend SWE highly enough. I’ve purchased and sold many watches across many platforms and dealers over the years and this was an exceptionally good experience. Thank you!

Tammy Schuster

Watch was exactly as described- absolutely beautiful! Customer service super helpful. Shipping was timely and just as promised.

Exceeded Expectations is the best way for me to describe my experience with SwissWatchExpo. Jason answered all my questions and concerns and couple of days later I was enjoying my Rolex.

Sanjay Ghosh

I recently purchased a Breitling Navitimer Heritage Black Dial Steel Mens Watch A13324 from SwissWatchExpo. I was served by Vlad and Ro, and they did a tremendous job answering my questions about selection, purchasing, and use of my amazing new time piece. SWE is an excellent outfit with a top-notch website and great customer service. I would highly SWE to anyone who is interested in a luxury time piece, and I will definitely be going back to them again for my future needs. SG

I had a great experience working with SwissWatchExpo. I worked with Zubair who was incredibly attentive and knowledgeable. Immediately after my initial call, Zubair set up a facetime with me to give me a virtual tour of the showroom and discuss my options. Once I purchased the watch, shipping was fast and packaging was discreet. The watch arrived in great condition, just as advertised. I definitely recommend SwissWatchExpo.

Alice Bauman

I’ve been working with SWE from afar by email and phone. After several purchases and trade-ins I can attest that the company is trustworthy and the staff all try to make you happy during each transaction. Shout outs to Michael, Jason and Meg for their knowledge and support! When you see a watch online that you like, call them and have someone look at the watch with you over FaceTime. Ask questions! They’re very helpful and responsive. They have the largest selection, at the best prices, period. The timepieces arrive to you fast and in exactly the condition as stated, and keep on functioning beautifully. If there’s a watch you’re hoping to find, they’ll have it today or eventually, check back online over time.

Great experience with watch acquisition. Was a super easy process, very quick response time, pieces are exactly as described. I will not hesitate to do business with them in the future.

Heath Schecter

It was easy as can be...saw what I liked, and had my watch in 2 days. I love it, and would use Swiss Watch Expo again.

Had a great experience dealing with Vlad. Everything showed up as expected and conveyed to me through the site, face time and over the phone. Order was shipped in two days as I was told and delivered on time! I would/will purchase from them again should I find the time piece I am looking for! Thank you Vlad!!

Peter Johnson

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I purchase a Rolex for my husband's 50th birthday from SwissWatchExpo and my experience was great! The watched arrived expediently and secure and I wouldn't hesitate to purchase from them again!

Betsy’s Nest

Love my new/vintage DateJust. Jason was very helpful, and answered all my questions.

I would never go anywhere else to purchase a rolex , they have top rated service , their products are pristine, the are honest . I can go on and on about this company. I have dealt with a few different people all extr helpful and kind . My watch came , it was smaller than I had anticipated (my fault) . It was a high price purchase for me, naturally I was nervous. The return was PAINLESS, I was credited withing 48 hrs . I was able to find another that suite me better. They do NOT push to sell, they go at your pace . No pressure . Great great company !!! Thank you to all eho have helped me. I have made a few purchases from them, never disappointed.

Good experience. First time buying a Rolex . Went with an Explorer ll . Zubair was a big help . Made it easy transaction

josh mingle

Watch arrived as displayed. Beautiful piece and fairly priced. Overall a good experience.

Bernardo Andrade

Great service!...I asked for an Her and His set for my anniversary, and they provide me with a lot of options. We are really happy with our Rolex set. Thank you

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Great experience. Michael C. Was my sales rep and he was great to work with.

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Great selection of luxury watches. Decent prices, good quality. Customer service is very helpful and respond fast.

Frank Sortino

Awesome service all around by Zubair and very professional in his presentation and delivery. Thoroughly explained everything. And of course, my lady was WOWed by the Rolex timepiece. Kudos my man, Zubair!

Joe Roberts

Incredible selection and reasonable prices. Process of buying the watch including receiving it was flawless. Michael Cash was patient, knowledgable, and extremely helpful. Great overall experience.

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This worldtimer is the latest addition to iwc's line of yacht club watches, a collection within the brand's trademark portugieser (née portuguese)  line. the limited-edition model will be offered in two case metals – red gold or stainless steel – and features a glass disc printed with global timezones set into the case back..

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Moscow City Golf Club

It is centrally located, just off Kutuzovsky Prospect, within 5 minutes drive from the Victory Park and the Triumphal Arch. Right in the center, yet green and picturesque with lakes and 15 Century Church next to it. Moscow City Golf Club was the first one to open in Russia on September 15, 1987 at the urban wasteland on the street Dovzhenko held long-awaited 'ground breaking' - famous sportsmen Pele, Mike Tyson, Sven Tumba and Alexander Ragulin made symbolic throws with the golf clubs. This day is considered to be the day of foundation of Moscow City Golf Club. The founder of the club is Sven (Tumba) Johansson ex World Champion hockey player. Thousands of golf fans gather here every season.

Throughout its history, Moscow City Golf Club tries to maintain and develop friendly relations with the golf clubs around the world, organizing the exchange of delegations, inter-club tournaments, social events, thereby making the life of the club members more interesting. Moscow City Golf Club has signed a cooperation agreement with American Golf Club 'Deep Cliff Golf Course', Finnish 'Aura Golf', French 'Cannes Mandle' and Cyprus' Aphrodite Hills Golf '.

Each year Moscow City Golf Club holds a lot of different tournaments and activities like: children's charity tournaments and much more attracting numerous visitors.

June 26, 2004 the Club House was open again after restoration. The opening ceremony was attended by the founder of the Moscow City Golf Club Sven Tumba Johansson and officials, senior officials from the Moscow Government.

As a result, the restoration Club House was transformed into a wonderful place for relaxition and organizing events. It has spacious and luxuriously furnished rooms available for the members of the Moscow City Golf Club: restaurant, golf bar, library, cigar and billiard room, conference room, office «Old Tom», Beauty Salon & SPA, gym, showers, saunas and relaxation rooms with personal lockers. Interior of the Club House was completed in classic English style by the famous designer from Hong Kong Garvin Chen (architect Garvin Chen).

Moscow City Golf Club has a nine holes field. Six of the nine holes are par-4 and three holes are par-3. The total playing distance is 2.343 metres. Detailed description of each hole you can find on the site of the Moscow City Golf Club with the plan.

Moscow City Golf Club is a wonderfull place with impecable service, the members can gain privileges in foregn golf clubs including in the International Association of the Clubs.

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At Chocolate Factory Site, a New Kind of Luxury Box

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By Anne Barnard

• Sept. 15, 2008

MOSCOW — Perhaps it was only a matter of time, after the sushi bars and the cappuccino bars and the wine bars and the art spaces: Lofts are coming to Moscow.

Here in the capital of the former workers’ state, the first old factory building to be converted into apartments — with soaring ceilings and gritty details that would make any New York real estate broker tremble — is an icon of Soviet industry, and of Russia’s transition to capitalism.

The Krasny Oktyabr chocolate factory — named Red October in honor of the 1917 revolution — sits on an island in the Moscow River, across from the Kremlin’s turreted walls and gold-domed churches.

Its crenellated red-brick building, built in the late 19th century when the company was a German-owned purveyor to the tsars, is a beloved landmark that conjures up images of Willy Wonka’s magical workshop. In winter, when the factory was working, its chimney sent white puffs of steam drifting over the frozen river, and from the opposite bank workers in white kerchiefs and aprons could be seen scurrying in and out.

No more. In this oil-rich boomtown, where a square yard of downtown residential space sells routinely for $20,000 and sometimes for as much as $50,000, city planners and shareholders have decided that assembly lines next to the Kremlin no longer make sense.

The factory’s fate tells a story of how one Russian business has evolved with the zigs and zags of the country’s economy since the fall of first the Romanovs and then the Soviet Union.

In the 19th century, the German-owned Einem factory, as it was then known, decorated its ornate chocolate boxes with the faces of the tsars. After nationalization, new labels showed revolutionaries storming the Winter Palace. Later, one box showed a smiling child, with the logo, “Thank you, Stalin, for our happy childhood!”

In the 1990s, the factory’s managers gamely embraced privatization. But at a time when businesses were getting rid of their Soviet associations, they kept the name Krasny Oktyabr; it was better known and better for business. And they kept making chocolate bars named Alyonka, for the daughter of the first female cosmonaut, and Slava, or Glory, which evoked Soviet slogans.

Now, Krasny Oktyabr, still rolling with the times, has become what every Russian company seems to want to be: a real estate developer.

The workers, mostly women, have been relocated to another candy factory, one of 14 in the United Confectioners holding company, which now owns the Red October brand. They make the same chocolates, but on new, modern machines far from the city center, part of a drive by the city government to move industry to the outskirts.

Guta-Development, a real estate company that has acquired 75 percent of United Confectioners, is planning to make the Krasny Oktyabr lofts the centerpiece of a luxury construction project on Bolotny Island, the crescent of land that divides the river just south of the Kremlin.

At first, preservationists were appalled. Over the past 15 years, developments for Moscow’s new rich have managed to be simultaneously rococo, shoddy and gargantuan. And the Moscow city government, which has ultimate control over the project, has a less than tasteful track record, as typified by the kitschy statue of Peter the Great that towers over the tip of Bolotny Island.

But Guta, to the cautious relief of people like David Sarkisyan, director of the Shchusev Museum of Architecture, has decided to market the development to the thinking billionaire.

The developers are betting that Russians who are now at home in New York and London — the tiny group that, in Mr. Sarkisyan’s words, is “starting to have some taste” — have learned to value architecture that fits into its historical context and physical surroundings. They believe such buyers will pay millions of dollars to live in an urban, post-industrial streetscape with shops and sidewalks open to the public.

Their marketing presentations carefully explain that lofts are unusual residences without interior walls, pioneered by “the king of Pop Art, Andy Warhol.”

Of course, it was largely penniless artists who reclaimed New York’s SoHo and Chelsea factory lofts as bare-bones residences before the wealthy discovered them. Moscow, trend-obsessed and still dominated by top-down urban planning, is skipping that stage.

But Guta hopes to piggyback on the work of developers who have reclaimed 19th-century factory buildings as cultural sites, drawing Muscovites’ eyes to the stark beauty of old steel and brick. Gazgolder and Vinzavod, a former gas works and wine factory, holds art shows and musical performances. Krasnaya Roza, or Red Rose, is a former silk factory converted into upscale offices.

“This is that rare case where aesthetic and commercial interests don’t collide, but wonderfully coincide,” said Anton Chernov, Guta-Development’s general director, in a written response to questions.

Many details remain under wraps. But the company has vowed that the area will stay open to the public, that three historic buildings, including the factory and a former imperial yacht club on the tip of the island, will be preserved and that the new buildings will harmonize with them and be low enough not to block Kremlin views from other parts of downtown.

Guta invited architects from Moscow and around the world, including world-class talents like Norman Foster and Jean Nouvel, to propose designs for apartments, offices, public cultural spaces and a hotel.

The most avant-garde idea, a Nouvel apartment building that would have echoed the red-brick facade of the factory but had a contorted, cracked shape, like a brick hit with a hammer, was rejected: too adventurous for the Moscow government.

The lofts are to be designed by Jean-Michel Wilmotte. A model apartment, in another brick building that is being preserved, has exposed brick and wooden beams, a sunken sitting area with black leather couches, a granite fireplace and a baby grand piano.

The factory’s Soviet-era sign, with Krasny Oktyabr spelled out in red cursive letters, will remain on top of the building. It adorns the business cards of the developers, who have grasped that the factory’s history, Soviet and otherwise, is a wonderful marketing tool.

But for now, in a place where chocolate not so long ago gushed from ancient green pipes — some machinery dated from the 1920s — the factory floors stand empty.

Ceilings of up to 25 feet and tall rows of windows overlooking the river kept space bright even during a downpour one recent afternoon. Details like iron floor tiles, wrought-iron banisters and brick interiors will remain, waiting for Russians to embrace yet another trend.

Shooter Files by f.d. walker

Street Photography Tips, Interaction, Travel, Guides

Apr 24 2017

City Street Guides by f.d. walker: A Street Photography Guide to Moscow, Russia

*A series of guides on shooting Street Photography in cities around the world. Find the best spots to shoot, things to capture, street walks, street tips, safety concerns, and more for cities around the world. I have personally researched, explored and shot Street Photography in every city that I create a guide for. So you can be ready to capture the streets as soon as you step outside with your camera!

At over 12 million people, Moscow is the largest city in Russia and second largest in Europe by population ( Istanbul is #1). An urban, cosmopolitan metropolis with more than enough glitz and glam to cater to the elite, but without losing its fair share of Soviet era roughness around the edges. It can be fast paced, brash, busy, and trendy like other big cities, but it has its blend of West meets Russia atmosphere and beauty that provides plenty of unique interest. The Red Square is as famous as it gets, but there’s so much more to this city, including the most beautiful subway system you’ve ever seen. It would take years to capture all of Moscow, but that means you have an endless amount of areas to discover.

So here’s a Street Photography guide so you can be ready to capture all that Moscow has to offer before you even arrive!

• Patriarch’s Pond
• Old Arbat Street
• Maroseyka Street
• Tverskoy Boulevard

Top 5 Street Spots:

1. red square.

The Red Square is the most famous square in not just Russia, but all of Eastern Europe. The name actually doesn’t come from the color of the bricks or communism, but from the name in Russian, Krásnaya, once meaning “beautiful” before its meaning changed to “red.” This large plaza is what you see on the cover of guide books and magazines for Moscow, with St. Basil’s Cathedral being the center piece next to Lenin’s Mausoleum surrounded by the Kremlin Wall. Of course, the Red Square attracts hordes of tourist due to the main attractions, but all that activity around an interesting atmosphere does provide street photo opportunities. It’s also the central square connecting to the city’s major streets, providing a good starting point to explore outward.

You’ll also find the popular pedestrian only Nikolskaya Street connecting the Red Square to Lubyanka Square. This line of expensive shops includes plenty of activity, while also leading you to another popular square. Filled with history rivaling any city, the Red Square and surrounding areas are the heart and soul of Russia.

2. Patriarch’s Ponds

Patriarch’s Ponds is one of the most exclusive neighborhoods in Moscow. Despite the name being plural, there’s only one large pond, but it’s worth a visit with your camera. It’s a popular spot for locals and expats to come relax or take a stroll around the pond. You get an interesting mix of young and old too, from young love to “babushkas” feeding pigeons. It’s a very peaceful park atmosphere in one of the nicer areas within the city center, while bringing enough activity for street photography. 

The pond is shallow and in the winter becomes a popular spot for ice-skating too. The area is also well-known for the location in the famous Russian novel, The Master and Margarita. 

3. Old Arbat (Stary Arbat)

Old Arbat is the most famous pedestrian street in Moscow, and dating back to the 15th century, also one of its oldest. Originally, it was an area of trade, but soon became the most prestigious residential area in Moscow. During the 18th century, Arbat started attracting the city’s scholars and artists, including Alexander Pushkin. Cafes lined the streets and impressive homes filled the neighborhood. Since then, New Arbat street was created as a highway in the area, while Old Arbat was paved for a 1km pedestrian only walkway.

Due to the historic buildings, famous artists that lived here, and the bohemian atmosphere, Old Arbat has become a big attraction for tourists today. Now, there’s a mix of cafes, restaurants, souvenir shops, street performers, street merchants and other attractions for visitors, and some locals, to come enjoy. It can get really busy here and there’s usually something interesting going on so it’s a good street to come walk with your camera for guaranteed life.

4. Gorky Park

One of the most famous places in Moscow is Gorky Park. The official name is Maxim Gorky’s Central Park of Culture & Leisure, which gives you an idea of what goes on here. When built, it was the first of its kind in the Soviet Union. Divided into two parts, it stretches along Moscow River. One end contains fair rides, foods stands, tennis courts, a sports club, a lake for boat rides, and more. This end brings more active life due to its number of attractions, while the other end is more relaxed, where you’ll find gardens, trees, older buildings, and an outdoor amphitheater.

Gorky Park attracts mostly locals so it’s a good spot to capture the non-tourist side of Moscow life. Muscovites come here to escape the city and unwind in a picturesque setting. The park remains alive outside of the warmer months too, especially when the lake turns into the city’s largest outdoor skating rink. I’d recommend taking the metro out here to spend at least half a day exploring the massive park’s life with your camera.

5. Maroseyka Street

Maroseyka Street is a popular area not too far from the Red Square. The long, winding street turns into Pokrovka and is lined with restaurants, cafes, bars and places to stay. It’s actually where I like to stay when I’m in Moscow due to its location and solid street photography opportunities itself. You have Kitay-gorod station near and if you keep walking southwest, you’ll get to the Red Square. But if you walk northwest, as it changes to Pokrovka, you can find a long street of activity for photography with its own interesting atmosphere.

6. Tverskoy Boulevard

Tverskoy Boulevard is the oldest and longest boulevard in Moscow, beginning at the end of Nikitsky Boulevard, and finishing at Pushkin Square, a spot to come for activity itself. The boulevard is made up of two avenues, with pedestrian walkways in-between. You’ll find grass, shrubbery, trees, benches and more walking it’s almost kilometer length. Many people come here to enjoy some relaxation, walk their dog, or just to use it to walk wherever they’re going. Its center location also provides a nice place to walk with your camera near plenty of other spots you’ll want to check out anyway.

Sample Street Walk:

For a full day of Street Photography, covering some of the best spots, you can follow this sample street walk for Moscow:

• Start your morning walking around the Red Square (1), while exploring the surrounding area, including Nikolskaya Street
• Then walk northwest to Patriarch’s Ponds (2) and slowly walk the pond and surrounding area with your camera
• Next, walk east to the Pushkin Monument and stroll down Tverskoy Boulevard (6)
• Once Tverskoy Boulevard (6) ends, it will turn into Nikitsky Boulevard. Follow this down until you get to the start of Old Arbat Street (3), across from Arbatskaya station
• After you’re done walking down Old Arbat Street (3) for more street photography, spend some time checking out Moscow’s beautiful metro stations
• To finish off the day with more street photography, get off the metro near Red Square (1) again, Maroseyka Street (5) or wherever you’re staying for the night.

3 Things I’ll Remember about Shooting in Moscow:

1. museum metro.

The Moscow metro system was the first underground railway system in the Soviet Union and today includes 203 stations across 340km of routes. The elaborate system has some of the deepest stations in the world too, with escalators that seem to go on forever. None of this is what makes it so special, though. Many of its stations feel like stepping inside a museum, making it without a doubt the most interesting and beautiful metro system I’ve been in.

When built, Stalin wanted to make the metro stations “palaces for the people” with marble, chandeliers, and grand architecture. The best part is the variety of architecture and styles used, making many of the stations a completely different experience visually. You could easily spend a whole day traveling the stations and there are even tours available for people who wish to do just that. My advice, though, would be just to buy a ticket and hop on and off at different stations, while exploring different lines. The museum-like surrounding mixed with the crowds of characters can make for a great photography experience.

Since there are so many stations, here are some of my favorites to check out:

• Novoslobodskaya
• Mayakovskaya
• Elektrozavodskaya
• Komsomolskaya
• Ploschad Revolyutsii
• Dostoyevskaya
• Prospekt Mira

2. Moscow is Big

It’s no secret that Moscow is a big city, but it can feel even bigger with how spread out much of it is. This is especially true if you compare it to cities outside of Asia. If I compared it to cities in Europe, I’d probably say only Istanbul would warrant more time to really discover the depths of this city. Most only explore around the Red Square and surrounding area, but that is such a small part of the city. Although, that central area does give you plenty to see on its own.

Fortunately, I had a good friend living in the city to show me around, but it opened up my eyes even more to how much there is to discover in Moscow. It’s a big city with a variety of atmosphere that can take you from “east” to “west” and trendy to rugged depending on where you go. I’d imagine you’d have to live here a while to really know the city.

3. Cosmopolitan Mix of East meets West

Modern skyscrapers mixed with amazing architecture, a world-class metro system with museum-like beauty, trendy fashion and chic clubs, Moscow is a rich mix of Russian culture and history in a more western cosmopolitan package. There is a push to keep the Russian culture, while also pushing forward with a modern metropolis the whole world will envy. This comes with an impressive skyline, that continues to grow, and endless modernities, but with soviet nostalgia and atmosphere mixed in for good measure.

Mixed in with this grand western cosmopolitan atmosphere, is a strong national pride in Russia. This includes their famous leader, Vladimir Putin. Maybe no other place will you see a country’s leader more often. All over, from the pricey tourist shops to the underground walkway stalls, you’ll find goods with Putin’s likeness covering them. From t-shirts to magnets to Matryoshka dolls. There’s a strong national pride that can be seen around the city, which also extends to their leader. Moscow is many things. It’s East meets West, modernizations meets Soviet era, and a whole lot more.

What To Do For a Street Photography Break?:

Eat at a stolovaya.

Stolovayas are Russian cafeterias that became popular in the Soviet days. You grab a tray and walk down the line of freshly prepared local dishes, and select whatever you want from the chefs. They’re usually inexpensive and a much better value than restaurants, while giving you the opportunity to try from a wide selection of everyday Russian food. They’re also very tasty. I always include some borsch on my tray and go from there. The places themselves are all over Moscow and usually come with Soviet-era aesthetics to complete the experience.

Street Safety Score: 7

*As always, no place is completely safe! So when I talk about safety, I’m speaking in general comparison to other places. Always take precaution, be smart, observe your surroundings and trust your instincts anywhere you go!

Being the 2nd largest city in Europe with over 12 million people, you’re going to have your dangerous areas, but for the most part, it feels safe walking around. Russia is statistically higher in crime compared to most of Europe, but this generally doesn’t apply to tourists and visitors. Around the Red Square and surrounding city center, you should feel completely safe walking around. Pick pocketing can happen, but no more than other touristic places. I always explore Moscow freely without coming across too much to worry about. It’s a spread out city, though, so of course it matters where you are. Just use basic street smarts, know where you are and Moscow shouldn’t give you a problem. 

People’s Reaction Score: 7

Moscow is fast paced, big city life, which usually means people aren’t too concerned with you, or your camera. I don’t find people notice or pay much attention to me when I’m out taking photos in Moscow. For the most part, people just go about their day. You shouldn’t get too many looks or concern. But it can depend on the area you are in. The more you stick out, the more you might get noticed with suspicions. I’ve never had any problems in Moscow, or Russia, but just be careful who you’re taking a photo of if you get out of the city center. Other than that, it’s about average for reactions. 

Street Tips:

Learn the alphabet .

Much of Moscow, including the metro system, doesn’t use english. The Russian alphabet uses letters from the Cyrillic script, which if you aren’t familiar with it and don’t know the sounds, can be hard to decipher the words. This is most important for street names and metro stops when trying to get around. It can save confusion and make it easier getting around if you learn the basic alphabet. At the very least then, you can sound out the words to see which are similar in the english conversion, which can help matching them to maps. When out shooting street photography, getting around is as important as anything. So save yourself some time and frustration by learning the Russian Alphabet.

Use the metro

While Saint-Petersburg feels very walkable for a city its size, Moscow can feel very spread out, even for its bigger size. Outside of the Red Square area, you can have plenty of walking before getting anywhere very interesting, so you’ll need to take the metro a lot if you really want to explore the city. Maps are deceiving here too, it will always be further than it looks.

Another reason it’s less walkable than Saint-Petersburg is its completely different set-up. Moscow’s streets are mostly contstructed in rings with narrow, winding streets in-between. This is common with medieval city cities that used to be confined by walls, but you usually don’t have it in a city this massive. Saint-Petersburg has a more grid-like pattern that also uses the canals to help you know your way around. When it comes to navigating on foot in Moscow, it can be more difficult, so bring a map and take the metro when needed. It’s why Moscow’s metro carries more passengers per day than the London and Paris subways combined.

Explore other areas if you have time

Moscow is really big. While most people stay around the Red Square within the Boulevard Ring, there’s so much more to the city. I covered some other spots outside of this circle, but if you really want to see the city, you’ll need time. If you do have time, some other areas I’d check out first are Zamoskvarechye, along some of the south and western Moscow.

Inspiration:

For some more inspiration, you can look through the Street Photography of Moscow photographer Artem Zhitenev  and check out 33 of my photos taken in Moscow .

Conclusion:

Moscow’s name brings a certain mystique, but once you’re there it might bring a different atmosphere than you expect. It’s big and sprawling, but beautiful in many ways. It can feel like a European capital on a grand scale, but you can definitely find its Russian side in there.

The urban sprawl of Moscow can be intimidating, but give it enough time and you’ll be rewarded with plenty to discover. All with the world’s best metro system to take you around.

I hope this guide can help you start to experience some of what Moscow contains. So grab your camera and capture all that Moscow has to offer for Street Photography!

If you still have any questions about shooting in Moscow, feel free to comment below or email me!

(I want to make these guides as valuable as possible for all of you so add any ideas on improvements, including addition requests, in the comment section!)

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