Sail Wildling

Downwind reefing.

I received quite a few messages after my previous post asking to explain the downwind reefing technique we use on Wildling, so in this post I’ll go over the details of how we do it.

Several years ago, I had the very good fortune of meeting Eric Barto who is circumnavigating on his Aikane 56, Sea Child . We cruised as buddy boats and became good friends with Eric and his wife Tamara during our voyage from Australia through Indonesia. Eric has spent his life sailing and ocean racing both personally and professionally, and it was a great learning opportunity for me to spend time with him during our passage together. Like the Outremer 5X, the Aikane 56 is a big catamaran, and Eric and Tamara mostly sail Sea Child with just the two of them on board. They have refined all their maneuvers over time to be accomplished short or single handed, which is how Robin and I sail as well. Eric taught me his technique for reefing a large catamaran mainsail downwind, which is why I refer to it as the “Barto Reefing Technique”.

Of course there are many experienced sailors that reef downwind all the time and think nothing of it. I’m sure there are many different techniques that are used also. I’m not saying this is the only way to do it, but it works for us, and hopefully this explanation will help folks that don’t have this technique totally figured out already, to apply it on their own boats.

Why Reef Downwind?

Before I explain how we take a reef downwind, I though it might be useful to describe why it’s important to do it in the first place. When we learn to sail, we are taught to reef by turning upwind, easing the mainsheet and traveler to take pressure off the mainsail, lowering the sail to the required reef point, retensioning the luff, and then pulling the leech reef point down to the boom with the leech reef line. Simple and effective. But what if you are going downwind and the wind builds to a point that you need to reef? Turning the boat upwind takes time and distance, and adds a lot of motion and apparent wind to the process. Often you will have a downwind gennaker up, so you have to furl that first before turning upwind to reef. You can avoid all of this by reefing from your downwind point of sail, which is why I think this is an essential technique to master for offshore sailors.

How does it work?

The key to this technique is to take your time. There’s no need to rush, you’re sailing downwind anyway, so there’s no stress required while reefing.

Preparing to reef

  • Put the boat on a deep reach. Around 160-165 degrees true wind angle works well for us. Don’t go too deep as you don’t want to accidentally gybe in the middle of the maneuver.
  • Remove the preventer (if you’re using one)
  • Center the traveler
  • Take in the mainsheet so the leech is is positioned towards the stern. You don’t need to have it super tight, but you want the boom to be fairly close to the centerline
  • Ease the leeward lazy jacks so they don’t impede the sail as it’s coming down
  • Put the first leech reef line on the winch ready to take it in
  • Start by easing the main halyard a bit. If you pull down on the luff, you should be able to start lowering the mainsail. Don’t release more halyard than you need, and stop when the main is too tight to move down by hand
  • Now wind in the leech reef line a bit. You will see that this also helps lower the whole sail and not just the leech
  • Go back and forth between halyard and leech reef line a bit at a time until the luff gets down to the reef cringle. Attach the cringle
  • Now ease the mainsheet a bit as you wind in the leech reef line a bit. Repeat this until the leech is down onto the boom at the reef point
  • Tension the halyard and lazy jack lines and return to your previous point of sail

Remember to go slow and do a bit at a time alternating between luff and leech. If you need to take more than one reef, then start with the first reef and get it all the way in before moving to the second reef, and so on. In fact, Eric uses this technique to completely lower the mainsail downwind, which is another great skill to have up your sleeve in case things get nasty.

Line Handling

It really helps to have a good reefing setup when doing this. Reefing from the mast base is the quickest, easiest and safest way to reef. On Wildling we have the leech reef lines at the mast, but the main halyard is led back to the electric winch at the helm, so it’s easiest to reef with two people. One to ease the halyard, the other to do everything else. Eric has everything at the mast on Sea Child , so he can do this single handed. I know a lot of people have their leech reef lines led back to the cockpit. We did on our last boat and it was a hassle. You can still do the maneuver, but it takes longer and is more dangerous doing it short handed as you have to go back and forth between the mast and the winches.

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reefing catamaran downwind

How To Sail a Catamaran Upwind or Downwind (Complete Guide)

reefing catamaran downwind

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Catamarans are the perfect backdrop to a relaxing fishing excursion, with sails in the wind as you reel in 50-pound striped bass. But when the gusts pick up and shift directions, you’ll find yourself weathering uncharted territory where reefing and speed are unlike a classic monohull. Sailing a catamaran upwind and downwind requires a skill set much different from the classic one hulled sailing.

To sail a catamaran upwind, maintain high speeds, center the mainsheet, limit angles to 45-60°, lose unnecessary weight, upgrade to Kevlar sails and daggerboards. To sail a catamaran downwind, maintain 160-170°, use asymmetrical spinnakers, reef when winds exceed 15 knots, and jibe.

Downwind gusts can help a catamaran surf down waves, something that is extremely exciting. However, facing those dreaded upwind breezes (especially without daggerboards) can signal the end of a soothing Mediterranian adventure. To learn how to sail a catamaran upwind or downwind, read on!

Table of Contents

How Sailing a Catamaran Is Different Than Monohulls

Multihull vessels like catamarans respond very differently to rough surfs, gusting winds, and shallow waters. If you’re still questioning, “What’s the difference?” here’s your answer.

Compared to classic monohull boats, catamarans are:

  • More stable — at sail and when anchored — and less likely to heel or rock from side to side.
  • Less responsive to waves and winds (detecting these requires keen observation skills).
  • Likely to struggle when sailing into the wind.
  • Harder to tack (high speeds are essential to avoid losing momentum)

Traditional yacht enthusiasts quickly learn that sailing a catamaran is smoother, though stiff headwinds and choppy surf are more challenging to overcome. Learning to master upwind and downwind catamaran sailing is essential to get the most out of your trip

If there’s one debate looming over the sailing community, it’s the age-old catamaran versus monohull discussion.

What is the difference b e tween cats and monos?

The UPWIND Catamaran Sailing Guide

reefing catamaran downwind

Sailing upwind means you’re cruising your catamaran toward the wind (i.e., Traveling east against westward-blowing gusts). This added wind resistance makes it more challenging to reach your destination swiftly and safely, as upwind journeys could come with:

  • Relentless sail luffing (fluttering like a bedsheet on a clothesline)
  • Slowed speeds and VMG (velocity made good)
  • Deep-digging bows in waves
  • Bridge deck slamming

Preparing for an upwind journey means taking the path of least resistance and the “long way home.” To survive your next upwind sail unscathed, follow these tips:

Maintain High Speeds

Thirty-knot gusts at-sea, high speeds, and a Leopard 44 might sound like a recipe for disaster. But a catamaran’s multihull design allows for lower capsize risks and less heeling in rougher conditions. It’s far gentler on the vessel to maintain momentum than to build throttle against heavy winds. 

Sailing a catamaran upwind requires sail, chart plotter, and daggerboard monitoring. The video below discusses upwind sailing tips as your catamaran’s bow faces 20-knot gusts.

Limit Angles to 45–60°

A straight line is undoubtedly the shortest pathway to your on-shore destination, but sailing your catamaran directly into the wind will land you in the dreaded “no-go zone.” That is, sailing into 15-knot wind gusts directly, draining all forward momentum (unless motoring), and being unable to steer responsively.

The point of sail “sweet spot” for catamarans sailing upwind is between 45 and 60°. This tight range will keep the bow headed in the right direction — toward a particular cove or dock — without cutting throttle (too direct) or over-inflating the sails (too perpendicular). 

An onboard flag can help you accurately detect your current point of sail (there are of course electronic aids as well). You should adjust the sails intentionally to ensure the perfect angle:

  • Slowly let out your sail.
  • Wait for the telltale to begin luffing (flapping in the wind).
  • Gently tug it back until the telltale flapping stops.

Upgrade to Kevlar Sails

Catamarans are impressively resistant to heeling where dainty monohulls might capsize. But instead of “giving” with the wind, a catamaran’s classic polyester sails will resist 30+ knot gusts almost entirely. Even the highest-tenacity Dacron sailcloths will develop wear and tear, performance-reducing distortions, or irreversible breakage in heavy winds.

Investing in heavy-duty Kevlar sails can create stiffer and more damage-proof sails that can better handle upwind excursions. Upgraded catamaran sail cloths can help you travel a crisper pathway at a close-hauled 45° without overcompensating at the wheel.

Select a Daggerboard Catamaran

Daggerboards are retractable vertical keels attached to a catamaran’s underbelly. These large, below-deck protrusions can prevent or limit any leeway in exceptionally windy conditions. 

Daggerboards vs Centerboards explained!

In other words, daggerboards will keep your catamaran from drifting with the wind or falling off course. The $30,000 higher price tag is undoubtedly off-putting, especially when proper tacking technique might render them useless. But the benefits are substantial:

  • Sailing 1-2 knots faster than a standard keeled catamaran
  • Traveling 5-7° closer to the no-go zone
  • Reaching your upwind destination quicker and with less dramatic tacking

Catamarans with daggerboards installed are more reliable and accurate when traveling upwind. But these built-in keels require proper care to prevent grounding or lurching into a reef. Until your sea voyages bring you upwind, keep your daggerboards raised.

Clean Hulls

Aside from trimming the sails and staying in the close-hauled zone, there’s only so much you can do onboard to better tackle an upwind voyage. But what about beneath the water’s surface? A dirty underside can wreak havoc on your catamaran’s all-around performance — cutting RPM by 1,000, draining fuel efficiency, and slashing your maximum speed by several kts.

Keeping your catamaran hulls free of barnacles, grime, and fouling can make your upwind travels far less treacherous. Revive upwind sailing potential by:

  • Spraying the bottom clean with an on-land hose
  • Scrubbing the slimy waterline with a soft brush or sponge
  • Dislodging caked-on algae with a plastic putty knife
  • Applying a fresh coat of antifouling paint

Scrub your catamaran’s underbelly clean at least four times a year, though monthly is preferred for maximum performance. You’ll quickly notice a swifter, cleaner, and smoother journey the next time you take your catamaran up the coast.

Trim the Sails & Center the Mainsheet

“Trimming” the sails is a beginner’s catamaran cruising skill designed to improve speed and better catch the breeze. By changing the angle of the sails and adjusting line tension, you can evade sail luffing and add several knots to your voyage — especially upwind. It takes practice to adapt your sails to the wind speed and direction, so here are the catamaran sail trimming basics:

  • Lock the mainsheet and position the boom so that it’s somewhat leeward (further away from the wind gusts).
  • As you veer away from the wind, slightly ease the traveler and monitor the telltales.
  • Start slowly easing the mainsheet when you’re on a beam or reaching (when the catamaran is at the right angle to the wind).
  • Keep an eye on the telltales and watch for differences between leward and windward side (bluffing or flopping). 

As you go through the classic trial and error process, don’t forget to keep the mainsheet centered — or as close to the center as possible. Otherwise, turning the winches in 18+ knot winds will require superhuman strength to get back on track, complicating your sail.

reefing catamaran downwind

Steering clear of the no-go zone (straight into the wind) will keep your catamaran from stalling and your sails from flapping around and potentially increasing wear. But you’ll never arrive at your coordinates if you’re staying on a strict 45° path in one direction. This is where skilled catamaran sailors begin “tacking”, the art of turning your boat with the wind on your bows.

When you tack on a sailboat, you’re forcing the bows into the wind’s direction (no go zone). Tacking redirects the bow to the opposite 45° angle — from 3 o’clock to 9 o’clock — and creates a zig-zag formation or subtle 90° turns through the water. Proper tacking requires a skilled crew on larger catamarans but can be a solo pursuit. Here’s how to do this maneuver carefully:

  • Start by sailing as close to the close-hauled territory as possible (within 40-45°).
  • Choose a heading 90° away as your turn “destination.”
  • Alert the crew to the tacking (if applicable).
  • Slowly release the loaded jib sheet and begin pulling the lazy sheet inward.
  • Steer the catamaran into the turn while maintaining speed (don’t speed up or slow down).
  • Allow the sail to backfill to assist with the pivot.
  • Release the jib sheet (watch your fingers, as the line releases quickly).
  • Tighten the jib sheet on the opposite side and feel the wind start powering the boat.

Tacking is a challenging sailing concept to master. But it’s also the only way to sail upwind efficiently.

Turn On the Motor

A traditional, motor-free catamaran cruise can be soothing if there’s no destination in mind. However, the sails become inefficient against 15-knot winds when your preferred snorkeling spot is several miles directly into the wind. The best way to sail upwind is by turning to your catamaran’s twin diesel engines and hitting the throttle. Even cranking the engine to half-speed can ignite your speed by 1-2 knots and improve the course by up to 20°.

The DOWNWIND Catamaran Sailing Guide

Sailing downwind means you’re cruising in the same direction as the wind’s blowing (i.e., Journeying north alongside north-blowing winds). This extra momentum can generate higher speeds on a run, though the consequences of unpredictable downwind exist. Spinnakers becoming tangled around forestays or spinnaker collapse are looming concerns in high winds.

Downwind sailing is the catamaran sailors’ favorite direction, and thats why most people circumnavigating the globe is travelling with the tradewinds going west!

How to circumnavigate the world

Downwind trips are much more straightforward for novice sailors, but there are techniques for building speed and learning more about your boat. To better handle your next downwind sail like an expert, follow these tips

Use a Screecher or Asymmetrical Spinnakers

Spinnakers are a special type of sail ideal for downwind runs. Unlike a mainsail or jib that luffs in the wind, spinnakers inflate like a balloon and give maximum power at around 90-160° angles. These ultra-lightweight, colorful sailcloths come in two varieties: Asymmetrical and symmetrical. Most yachters attach asymmetrical spinnakers or screechers to their catamarans because they:

  • Work well in close-hauls, beams, and broad reaches
  • Boost speed by about 2 knots
  • Resist damage in 25-knot downwind gusts
  • Are quite versatile

The latest spinnaker tends to have more volume when tacked to the windward bow. These new designs allow them to catch more wind and pick up speed at nearly all deep, downwind angles (except directly at your aft). 

Sailing a catamaran downwind isn’t quite as simple as easing the sails and cruising. The video below explains the catamaran difference when traversing the sea with the wind at your aft.

Choose the Right Angle

Sailing a catamaran directly downwind sounds like a decent strategy for picking up some momentum. But because catamarans travel faster with the wind at their sails, a less direct point of sail can maximize your velocity made good (VMG). 

The proper point of sail for downward cruises is in the broad reach position — ideally between 160 and 170°, though up to 90° can be somewhat effective. This 10-20° off-center angle is slight but can boost your maximum speeds by a few knots.

Reef at 15 Knots

Though catamarans don’t heel or spill wind like monohull ships, the high wind pressure cues are more challenging to detect. Sailing behind 15 or even 20-knot gusts can overpower even the sturdiest sails when you jibe. Reducing your sail surface area and allowing more wind to flow through — reefing — will reduce speed(usually) and increase safety.

Always keep an eye on your anemometer while sailing downwind in windier conditions. Once it’s registering 15-20 knots, here’s what you should do:

  • Reduce the mainsail’s pressure by loosening the mainsheet and repositioning the traveler leeward (away from the wind).
  • Take the pressure off the boom vang.
  • Lower the main halyard and hook reefing point #1 on the proper hook.
  • Pull the reefing line manually (or with a winch).
  • Put more tension back on the halyard and boom vang.

Time is of the essence while reefing downwind, and one reef might not be enough if you’re sailing into a squall. Be prepared for a second or third reef when winds measure 25 and 30 knots, respectively. If winds exceed 30 knots, remove the jib entirely and use the mainsail as you return to the marina.

These numbers above are general numbers and since cats don’t heel much it is very important to abide by the wind speed reefing table on your boat.

Why do catamarans capsize?

Jibe (Gybe)

Jibing (gybing) is the downwind version of tacking, meaning you’ll be heading off on another zig-zag 90° journey as you sail out of the bay. But unlike tacking, where you forced the ship’s bow toward the wind, now you’ll be guiding the boat’s stern away from the wind. Here’s how to jibe a catamaran safely and quickly:

  • Make sure the traveler is in a center position (or close to center).
  • Trim the sail to prevent the boom from swinging in mid-jibe.
  • Angle the catamaran so you’re traveling a few degrees off from directly downwind.
  • Choose a location in the distance that’s 90° from your current location.
  • When the mainsheet feels lighter, bring the boom toward the ship’s center.
  • Wait for the leech to rise (the sail’s rear edge).
  • Release the mainsheet again.

While jibing can help you stay on course and pick up some speed, it comes with some risks. An uncontrolled boom can rapidly swing and crash into a crew member, cause unpredictable heeling, or damage the rig. Make sure all crew members are ready to jibe before beginning the process.

Reduce Speeds

The physics behind sailing is quite complicated and misconceptions about venturing downwind are common. Thanks to choppy waves (water resistance) and sails (lack of wind resistance), it’s impossible to sail downwind at faster speeds than the wind directly at your aft.

Sailing a catamaran upwind or downwind is more complicated than a calm, Caribbean sailing expedition. Prepare for your next windy escapade by:

  • Checking the wind speed and direction via your local weather service
  • Practicing reefing, tacking, and cruising skills in calmer conditions
  • Experimenting with sail trims, headsail positions, and motor use
  • Learning more about spinnakers, screechers, and gennakers

Every gust, knot, and reef will help you hone your catamaran sailing talents and better prepare for less predictable weather. Try to build your confidence and perfect your skills before exposing yourself to harsher conditions.

Owner of CatamaranFreedom.com. A minimalist that has lived in a caravan in Sweden, 35ft Monohull in the Bahamas, and right now in his self-built Van. He just started the next adventure, to circumnavigate the world on a Catamaran!

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Downwind Sailing on a Cruising Catamaran

Although sailing downwind in the trades in a cruising boat has its challenges, it is a relatively pleasant and fairly easy experience on a catamaran.

There is a more-or-less continuous flow of air across the Atlantic called the trade winds. Because the Earth is warmer at the equator and colder at the poles, and because of Earth’s rotation, this flow is generally westerly (from the west) near the poles and easterly nearer the equator.

Every season there is a migration of cruising boats that follow the trades when the trade winds are steady. One such migration is from the Mediterranean to the Caribbean across the Atlantic Ocean in November / December every year from east to west. It is the same downwind route that we took when we sailed our own boat back from France to the Caribbean in November 2019.

Although sailing downwind in the trades in a cruising boat has its challenges, it is a relatively pleasant and fairly easy experience on a catamaran. Assuming that your catamaran is a regular production cat like a Leopard, Bali or Lagoon, well equipped with cruising gear, you’ll perform much the same way as an equivalent monohull with either a conventional symmetrical spinnaker or asymmetric sail. Like on monohulls, you will pretty much sail to hull speed provided your catamaran is not overloaded. Performance cats are a different animal of course.

Chart atlantic crossing 1

Therefor a regular cruising cat, much like a monohull, needs a lot of sail area and has to sail deep downwind if it is to achieve a decent speed made good (VMG), typically between 160° and 170°. But multihulls offer a unique wide platform for setting and sheeting downwind sails that set it apart from monohulls and make it a lot easier to sail downwind. The wide deck platform provides outboard sheeting points that makes downwind sails more efficient and the windward hull provides a tack location when sailing deeper angles is desired. Our preferred downwind sail is the assymmetrical spinnaker but a wing-on-wing configuration with dual head sails is very effective and, in many cases, safer and easier to handle for shorthanded crew.

Asymmetrical Sails for Downwind Sailing

Most modern catamarans choose to fly an asymmetric spinnaker and tack it to the weather bow. Sailmakers have managed to design these asymmetric sails so that they have more volume aloft. That means that even when you’re sailing deep angles, the luff of the sail sets well to windward and is able to catch more breeze that would have passed to windward of the boat. This configuration is pretty much as good as it gets for a cruising catamaran and is good for a range of apparent wind angles of between 90-160 degrees.

That was our sail plan onboard our Bali 5.4 when we did the Atlantic crossing…that is until we blew the asymmetrical sail halfway through our crossing and had to resort to using our Code Zero and jib in a wing-on-wing configuration for the duration of the trip. The spinnaker propelled us across the Atlantic fast. We easily did 200nm + days on the Bali 5.4 in 15 knots of wind.

The asymmetrical sail is a fantastic sail in light winds and once you understand just how easy it is to set and take down, it will be one of your favorite sails to use. These big downwind sails set forward of the mast and so, if there should be a sudden wind increase, the sheet can quickly be released, and the sail allowed to depower by streaming downwind. That means that when on passage, a cruising catamaran can always be rendered safe if things get a little out of hand. All being well, it can be snuffed, ideally while in the lee of the mainsail.

The key as always is in preparation. Make sure the sheets and halyard are all free to run and the sock is not crossed or tangled. The other mistake many of us tend to make is to over-sheet the spinnaker. One should let it fly out as far away from the boat as possible. It will make a huge difference. Keep easing the sheet until the luff curls, testing how far you can ease it out. You can always wind it back in. See the video here of how we set up our asymmetrical sail>>

We had our Asymmetrical sail made by Quantum in Annapolis, MD for our new Bali 5.4. It is a monster sail but surprisingly easy to handle. Andrew listened to our requirements for this downwind sail and built a sail that was ideally suited for our application.  A word from our sailmaker at Quantum>> .

Wing-on-Wing Sail Configuration with Dual Headsails

The Code Zero is our favorite sail to use in light winds. It is the most popular cruising multihull downwind sail because they offer great versatility and cover a wide range of wind angles. Today the furling systems used with these sails are great and is as easy to use as a jib. We fly that sail most often and when the wind is just right on the beam, we really get flying. The Code Zero is best used with an AWS (apparent wind speed) of up to 18 knots, with an apparent wind angle (AWA) of less than 135 degrees.

When we blew out our asymmetrical sail halfway across the Atlantic, we were forced to use our head sails and our sailing became somewhat more conservative and a little slower. We set up a wing-on-wing configuration with the Code Zero to one side and the jib out to the other side of the boat. The two sails combine to create one giant sail, and the wind funnels from one sail to another and even though a touch slower than the asymmetrical, was totally adequate and is much more forgiving than sailing wing-on-wing with the headsail and mainsail where you have to use preventers etc. This configuration is also much more manageable and safer to handle for shorthanded crew or a couple.

Autopilot Wind Vane for Downwind Sailing on a Catamaran

When sailing with finicky sail configurations like the ones above, be sure to put your autopilot on wind vane mode and set the wind angle as a priority.  That way, if the wind shifts, your autopilot will adjust the boat to have the sails properly filled.  If you are running on a heading or a track when the wind shifts, you might find your sails backwinded or do an accidental gibe, which is dangerous.

Being on the wind vane setting does mean that you need to pay extra attention to your course; if the wind shifts, you may have to switch to another downwind sail tactic. Always get the boat balanced and steering comfortably before you switch on the autopilot. If the helm is overpowered and the steering is hard to control when you steer, the autopilot will have the same difficulty keeping a steady course. Set your right combination of sails and trim the sails well to set a comfortable course, then set the autopilot and watch it for a time to make sure it doesn’t labor too hard.

Chafe is Significant on Sails

Sailing downwind across the Atlantic, one will experience a lot of chafe on your running rigging. It’s a huge problem. We had our Code Zero come down while sailing from Madeira to the Canary Islands because the halyard was chafed right through in a few hours. Fortunately, we retrieved the sail without any issues, but it could have been a real problem. One should make provision for chafe and check your lines all the time. In fact, it is good practice to simply roam around the boat and check your running and standing rigging daily while on passage. We have bought several lengths of Dyneema sleeve and have sewn this chafe gear on the wear spots on the spinnaker halyard as well as all the reefing points on the main halyard.

Crash Stop or Quick Stop

Cruising yachts are mostly sailed by couples and are essentially short-handed. When a crew member goes overboard it is always at the worst possible time and completely unexpected, which means that the reaction time to start the correct maneuver is usually not good. The man overboard recovery method that we prefer being shorthanded, is called the “Crash Stop” or “Quick Stop”. It works in almost all situations and requires only one crew member and no sail trimming. Learn about the MOB Quick Stop Maneuver.

Parking Your Catamaran in Emergency

Parking the boat is an effective method for stopping anywhere and holding station, much like heaving-to in a monohull. Deep reef your main sail, drop the traveler all the way to leeward, and sheet the mainsheet hard in. Secure your helm so the rudders are pushing the boat into the wind. The cat will sit on a close-hauled course, drifting sideways at about ½ knot. This is great if you need a break from very harsh conditions or a squall. The motion will be smooth and will give you time to regroup or effect repairs if necessary.

FYI: If you own a Lagoon, Leopard or Fountain Pajot, you don’t necessarily have to have a sail built for your boat. There are pre-owned sails available to be purchased at a fraction of the cost.

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Essential reefing tips for cruisers

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Reefing

Reefing need not be onerous and doing it well makes an amazing difference to the way your boat handles strong winds Credit: Graham Snook/YM

James jermain, boat test guru and former editor of YM, has sailed hundreds of yachts all over the world

James jermain, boat test guru and former editor of YM, has sailed hundreds of yachts all over the world

Why do we reef? Simple. We reef when conditions are such that to do otherwise would risk blowing out the sails, bringing down the mast – or driving the boat under.

But stop there and you’ll have only half-answered the question. You will have missed out the most important factor – the crew. You may well also be guilty of not understanding your boat and the way she behaves. Most boats, particularly modern boats, share with their crews a liking for sailing upright, under good control and comfortably.

Reefing

With too much sail up, the mainsheet trimmer will be worn out working the traveller – and one lurch away from a fall across the cockpit

In short, thrashing to windward at 30 degrees, tiller under chin, main flogging and spray sweeping the cockpit, may be exhilarating and macho for a short time, but your crew will quickly lose the will to sail with you ever again. You will also be shortening the life of your gear and, you may be surprised to see, the nicely snugged-down boat that was somewhere over your leeward quarter is now stretching away on your weather bow.

Newcomers to sailing often take a while to shake off the notion that the stronger the wind and the bigger the sails, the faster you can get the boat to go. But that’s definitley not the case.

Take a moment to consider the shape of your boat underwater when she’s sailing on a more or less even keel – she has nicely flowing curves, well balanced on both sides. The rig is standing over the boat with the centre of effort driving forward more or less along the centreline and over the bow.

Reefing

Upright, water flows evenly around the hull. When heeled the water flows very differently, encouraging her to round up

Now picture the boat heeled to 30°. On one side the waterline is a sharp curve, the other almost straight. The hull is trying to hook up to windward and to compensate you have to pull the rudder hard over across the water flow, where it acts more as a brake than a steering foil. The keel is no longer as deep, has less grip on the water and its centre of resistance (drag) is to windward of the centreline.

Reefing

Heeling increases weather helm due to different waterline profiles (see above) and the turning moment that results from the separation of the Centre of Effort and Centre of Drag. Reefing reduces heel, bringing them closer, so reducing weather helm and improving waterline profile

Meanwhile the rig is well over to the lee side. The centre of effort is somewhere over the sea to leeward and is also dragging the boat round into the wind. You are having to stall the main and lose drive just to keep the boat under control. You are going slowly, sailing further in a series of curves, and leeway is carrying you off your course.

And we haven’t even started to consider the lot of the poor crew hanging on by their fingertips, wet, tired and considerably below mental and physical par.

So the answer to ‘Why do we reef?’ on a cruising boat is to:

  • Preserve and protect the crew
  • Preserve and protect the boat and equipment
  • Sail faster and more efficiently

When to reef?

Reefing

Few people relish crew work in lively conditions. Reef early and there’ll be no complaints

An old adage states that: ‘The time to reef is when you first think of it.’ And it’s true. In a cruising context, you will seldom regret reefing early and you will almost always regret reefing late. In practice choosing the right moment to reduce sail is a matter of knowing and understanding your boat, your crew and the conditions – in other words it’s ‘experience’. However, here are some reasonably reliable guidelines for a typical modern, medium-sized cruising yacht:

  • Wind speed Most boats are designed to require the first reef in around 18 knots apparent wind when sailing to windward. Some lighter, more coastal-orientated boats may struggle in 15 knots while heavier offshore designs will still be happy at 20 knots or more.

Reefing

Heavier displacement boats like this Hallberg-Rassy can wear their canvas longer than lighter boats, but she still seems heavily pressed

  • Sea state The sea state can have an important bearing. Short, steep seas can stop a boat in its tracks and one that is over-pressed will drive its bows into the face of a wave. Reducing sail, particularly the headsail will allow the boat to ride over the waves comfortably and keep up speed. However, there is another side to this – by reducing sail too much you may not leave enough power to make way against big seas. Knowing your boat will allow you to balance these factors.
  • Crew ability As the wind builds so do the loads on the control lines – sheets, halyards and reefing pennants. A thoughtful skipper will know the strength of his crew and won’t hang on to sail beyond their ability. This is especially true if it’s necessary to go up to the mast or foredeck as part of the reefing process. An over-pressed boat is a much less safe working platform. The thoughtful skipper will also bear in mind the possibility that things might go wrong and need time to resolve – do you have this time and can your crew work in the current conditions?

How to make reefing easier

One reason people delay reefing is that it can be hard and potentially dangerous work. Make it quicker and easier and it will be done sooner.

Reefing

Marking the genoa foot creates ‘gears’ that can easily be reefed to

Reefing

Mark the sheet car position for the same reason

Mark where everything needs to be for each reef – main halyard, kicker, reefing lines, sheet cars, genoa foot, backstay

Reefing

Doing all you can to make reefing easier and quicker, which includes servicing winches and furlers, will be popular with the crew

Service, maintain and lubricate (as appropriate) all reefing equipment – roller furling gear, winches, jammers, sheet cars, batten cars, main traveler

Reefing

Car tweakers help you get the right sheeting angle for the reefed genoa without going forward

Reefing

Fitting full battens and ball sides means the sail sets better and is easier to haul down to reef

Consider equipment upgrades: blocks instead of cringles, stack pack and lazyjacks, full length battens (that reduce flogging and noise and set flatter), better luff cars/slides, more powerful roller furling

The best way to trim reefed sails

Just because there is plenty of wind and the boat is making good speed doesn’t mean sail trim can be ignored. On the contrary, the boat will be operating close to its limits so every scrap of sail efficiency will help. Poorly set sails will add to leeway, which is probably already quite significant. They will also reduce the drive available to cope with big waves while increasing the yacht’s heeling and crew’s discomfort.

Reefing

When the headsail is half-furled, the slot between the sails is much bigger, so you can ease off the traveller or mainsheet

The big thing to remember is that, with less genoa overlap (assuming it has been partly rolled), and a more open slot, the mainsail can be eased out significantly. Drop the traveller down as far as you can without stalling the luff and even be prepared to accept a bit of lifting here. This will keep the boat more upright, reduce leeway and increase forward drive.

Reefing

Increase backstay tension when close hauled in strong winds to stop the headstay from sagging

Keep the sail flat. Make sure the leech cringle is hard down to the boom to stretch out the foot, harden up the halyard and increase backstay tension.

Reefing

With the car forward, the sheeting angle of a well-set headsail bisects the clew, balancing the load along the leech and foot of the sail

The important thing here is the sheet lead. As the sail is rolled the lead needs to be moved forward to maintain the angle through the sheet, roughly bisecting the clew. The aim is to balance the load along the foot and leech, so that there is not too much twist in the sail or too much fullness. Make sure you have tell-tales that are still visible when the sail is well rolled so you can position the sheet car accurately. There is not much you can do with the halyard once the sail has been rolled, but before you start, do check that the luff is well tensioned to flatten the sail and remove luff wrinkles. This will make the sail roll more easily and set flatter. Backstay tension will also improve set, by reducing forestay sag.

How to reef when sailing off the wind

Reefing

It is all too easy to ignore a rising wind in the thrill of a high-speed downwind sleigh-ride

So far we have looked at reefing with the boat hard on the wind, round to a beam reach. From this point on you need to consider some extra factors.

For one thing, once you are running off downwind, apparent wind drops away, the boat comes upright and all seems to be well. Always be aware of the true wind speed. It is all too easy to ignore a rising wind in the thrill of a high-speed downwind sleigh-ride. Never lose sight of what conditions might be like if you suddenly had to turn into the wind.

I’m not suggesting you should run with a sail plan reduced to cope with an upwind beat (although on a catamaran it’s not bad practice), but remember it’s not always easy to reef downwind and you may have to round up at least to a beam reach before you can manage it.

Reefing

The problem with reefing downwind is that you can’t depower the mainsail. Luff slides can jam and the main will drape over the spreaders

The problem with reefing downwind is that you cannot depower the main. As soon as you ease the halyard, the sail will tend to fall across the shrouds and spreaders, particularly if they are swept well aft. The pressure in the sail will also be forcing it forward onto the mast and the slides/cars will tend to jam in the track. Dragging a sail down over the spreaders and shrouds, even if it is possible, will almost certainly cause damage.

Reefing

Reef the mainsail early and deep. Use the genoa to fine-tune the sail area

The genoa is much easier to reef downwind. The loads are light and the reefing line will be easy to pull in. The genoa also tends to pull the boat along, rather than push it, so it generates less broaching movement.

Everything, therefore points towards reefing the main early and deeply and then fine-tuning the total sail area with the genoa.

But, you may say, on a deep run, the genoa won’t stand well. The answer is to pole it out or sail high enough to keep it filled and stable. Tacking downwind not only keeps the genoa filled and stable, but it can also be faster, or as least as quick as, a dead run. This is particularly true of lightweights and catamarans, but less so for heavy displacement long-keelers.

Reefing theory in practice

Reefing

Too much heel: we’re powering along but it’s hard work and she’s going sideways fast

As all sailors know, the theory is only half the story. Things can be a lot less predictable out on the water. We went sailing in the Solent in perfect wind conditions for reefing research. The breeze built from nine to 24 knots apparent to windward (three to 18 knots true or Force 2 to 5), giving realistic conditions for taking in one and then two reefs. More to the point, it showed exactly why early reefing really works.

Our boat was a Jeanneau Sun Fast 37 on loan from the Hamble School of Yachting: a fast cruiser-racer with a roller furling headsail and a slab reefing mainsail.

As the apparent wind rose above 18 knots, we suffered the first of a series of broaches. While maximum boat speed remained reasonably high (just over six knots), the average course to windward fell from around 33 degrees to closer to 40 degrees as leeway increased, and continually rounding up lowered our average speed.

The mainsheet trimmer was having to work hard dropping the traveller and easing the main to keep the boat on her feet and all control lines were fully loaded.

Reefing

Much better! Less power, but less hard work, more boatspeed, a lot less leeway and a happier, more comfortable crew

As soon as we eased off the main in preparation for reefing, the boat came upright and the cockpit was a nicer place to work. The first reef dropped in quickly, and six rolls of the genoa brought it down to working jib size. We sheeted in, trimmed the sails and immediately the boat gained half a knot top speed. More importantly, she was able to maintain that speed and hold a wind angle of 33 degrees without rounding up. She still had the power to drive through a short chop, the mainsheet hand could relax and life in the cockpit and below was much more civilised. As the wind approached 24 knots, the same procedure was repeated, with similar results – easier motion, increased speed, more comfort, less leeway, less work.

Reefing on cats, cutters, ketches and yawls

Reefing

This Mahé 36 needs less mainsail to reduce power and more jib to provide some lift at the bow

The problem with cats is the stronger the wind, the faster they go, until…

The signs that a cat is over-pressed can be subtle and take some experience to sense. So reefing a cat is largely a numbers game – first reef at x knots in flat seas, x-y knots in heavy seas, x-z in breaking seas. Sea state is almost more important than wind strength. The big danger is burying the lee bow and pitchpoling. Reduce the often large and big-roached main area ahead of the smaller jib and you will keep the downward pressure to a minimu

Cutters and ‘slutters’

Reefing

If the wind picks up, just furl the yankee and the staysail will keep her pointing

Twin headsails allow great flexibility in reefing. Traditional cutters with a high-cut yankee jib and small (self-tacking) staysail, can be reefed by dropping one or other sail, the remaining one being left in conditions up to gale force. Modern ‘slutters’ with a big, genoa-sized headsail and a smaller staysail are usually sailed single-headed, with the genoa often full cut and used only in light airs or off the wind. In wind of 15 knots or more, the headsail is furled and the small, tough staysail can again cope with winds up to gale force.

Ketches and Yawls

Reefing

Ketch advantage: in moderate to strong winds you don’t need the mainsail at all

Although out of favour for good reason, twin-masted boats are often perfect for heavy weather sailing, being able to set or dowse a number of sails in many combinations without having to reef or roll any of them. The boat can always be well balanced and the sails set most efficiently.

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reefing catamaran downwind

Tom Cunliffe: A guide to downwind sailing

You don’t always want to have to come head-to-wind to reef. in this extract from  the complete ocean skipper , tom cunliffe talks about how to reduce canvas without turning around.

Downwind reefing

On passage, your mainsail is hoisted and likely to stay up, barring extreme weather, until you arrive and, for much of the time out there at sea, a boom preventer will be rigged. This raises a number of important questions about reefing.

On the face of things, any mainsail is happier being reefed or unreefed at an angle to the breeze that allows it to spill wind. But this does not mean ‘head-to-wind’, and if you are suffering a system that demands this, the only thing to do is get rid of it now.

REEFING THE MAINSAIL

Fortunately, despite strange lessons taught in mysterious covens of ignorance, few arrangements really do ask for this. If the sail-handling gear is any good at all, reefing should be easily dealt with by coming on to a reach close enough to set the apparent wind forward of the beam, easing the sheet and letting things flog for a few seconds while you deal with the heave-ho part of the operation.

Downwind reefing

Close-reaching or beating, there’s no problem. Just let the sheet off, reef and heave it in again. If the apparent wind is just abaft the beam, it won’t be a big deal to luff 20 or 30 degrees to let things flap.

The trouble starts when the boat is so far off the wind that the main boom is restrained by a preventer, and a booming-out pole for the headsail is rigged on the windward side. If the preventer is rigged in a seamanlike manner, easing this before luffing will be easy. The problem is the headsail. Coming up far enough to flog the main will almost certainly cause the headsail to lie aback against its pole, which puts ghastly strains on things, renders the boat ‘not under command’ and is generally unacceptable. Rolling it away is a solution of sorts, but who wants to do that? If the pole is rigged properly, the sheet can be eased away and the sail taken up on the lee sheet for a short while, but it’s a messy answer. By far the most satisfactory solution is to reef the main while sailing downwind.

Downwind reefing

It is true that with some mainsail systems the sail simply must spill wind to hoist, shorten or drop, but anybody who’s ever tried to stuff a running boat into half a gale, in a big sea, will never want to do it again. The technique described here works well on a slab-reefing main, although not on a single-line reefing version, because with this the clew cannot be properly controlled at all times.

Downwind reefing

If your system can’t maintain a restrained clew tension while reefing, you’ll just have to pay the price and luff up somehow. If yours can, you might be agreeably surprised. Here’s how it works with a conventional slab-reefing mainsail.

Screen Shot 2016-09-02 at 15.36.34

Don’t top up the boom, but take its full weight by heaving up the topping lift against the vang or kicker, which you have emphatically not let off. Don’t slack away on any preventers. Leave the sheet where it is and the boom is now held, rock-solid, in all directions. Ease the halyard carefully while pulling the tack down. The sail will now try to sag against the shrouds and spreaders, making it impossible to drag it any further. To negate this tendency, pull hard but carefully on the clew pennant as the sail descends.

Downwind reefing

Snug the tack down tightly, then winch in the last of the pennant, making sure to flatten the foot fully. If you have aft-swept spreaders you may find it helps to ease away the preventer a few feet and heave in the sheet, so as to get the sail off the worst of the friction bonanza offered by the standing rigging.

So far, so good, but what about other handling systems that are supposed to save work?

FURLING SYSTEMS

Fortunately, I’ve known people with in-mast systems on modest-sized yachts who assure me they can reef downwind. The same goes for in-boom, which has the great advantage that its clew is permanently outhauled and the leech is supported by full-length battens. In this case, it may help to ease the preventer, then sheet in a few feet to keep the canvas off the rigging. Keeping the luff tape well lubricated with slippery silicone is a must and always bear in mind that the further out the boom is, the more of a hammering the universal joint in the rolling mechanism is taking.

Being able to reef the main without rounding up is an inestimable benefit. The number of times I have been sitting at dinner in the trade winds only to be turned out to reef for the sunset squall, is nobody’s business.

You won’t want to be taking in poles and putting the seas abeam at a time like that.

I remember heading southwards over 400 miles-worth of the Bay of Biscay with a 38ft sloop in a northeast wind. We started in Force 4 with the boom securely prevented and the genoa poled out. Halfway across, the breeze had piped up to Force 6. We had two reefs in the main and several rolls in the headsail. Approaching Finisterre, the wind rose to gale force. All we had to do was drag down the third reef, roll in the genoa to a few feet short of nothing and press on. We never touched the pole’s guys, the boom preventer or even the main boom vang, all the way across. The boat had no special gear and the passage was a classic manifestation of the success of well- organised downwind reefing.

REEFING THE HEADSAIL

Downwind reefing

It’s assumed that the vast majority of voyaging yachts now have roller-furling headsails. I’d suggest that if there’s any choice in the matter these should be on the small size, with clews well up off the deck. High-clewed sails roll better than deck-scrapers; you can see under them and they never even look like touching the water on an extreme roll. There is, however, a school of thought that says high clews encourage rolling. There may well be something in this, so, as they say, the choice is yours.

Downwind reefing

Reefing a headsail is always easier if it can be sheeted into the shadow of the mainsail. On a reach, therefore, it pays to run off briefly while reefing. Wait until the genoa falls, windless, into the main’s lee, then roll it in.

FAIR FURLING LINE LEAD

On my 44-footer I can reef the sail readily without reverting to a winch so long as I can let it flog or shadow it. If you can’t roll it in without power assistance on any boat under that size, you’d be well advised to ask yourself why not. The usual reason is a bad lead on the furling line.

Downwind reefing

When I bought my boat, this was led to the cockpit via a nasty, cheap block that turned it through 120 degrees. The block sheave was worn almost flat. A predecessor had bought a small reefing winch and cluttered up my nice clean cockpit coaming with it, rather than binning a block worth £10. With that block out of the system, the line led sweetly all the way.

By perching on the pushpit quarter seat I can now heave in the whole sail in 25 knots of wind. The winch is redundant, unless the sail is poled out with wind in it and I don’t feel inclined to gybe the main to give it some lee. Then I must winch it in as I ease the sheet, but the reefing winch is so small I lead the line to a spare primary instead.

ocean-skipper

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reefing catamaran downwind

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The Offshore Voyaging Reference Site

reefing catamaran downwind

  • Reefing Made Easy

reefing catamaran downwind

In this chapter we will cover in detail, complete with photos illustrating each step, how we reef on Morgan’s Cloud and, more specifically, how we reef when sailing downwind, which is much easier and, more importantly, safer than rounding up head to wind.

This technique works well at pretty much any wind angle but is safest from about 115° to 170° true wind angle where the boom can be far enough out for the preventer to be effective.

Required Gear

First off, the boat needs to have the right gear:

  • A powerful two-speed (on all but the smallest boats) self-tailing winch capable of grinding the reefing pennant in while the sail is full.
  • Clutches to secure the in-use reefing pennant so the winch can be used for the next reef. Note that a year or so after we took these photos, we replaced the jam cleats with clutches, which work a lot better since they can be released under load when shaking out a reef.
  • A winch with the same capabilities as above for the main halyard.
  • A simple and quick way to secure the tack of the reef.
  • In a pinch, you could even just rig a tackle from the boom center to the toe rail. (Be careful doing this since if you forget it and trim the main sheet it is a sure way to break the boom.)
  • If you don’t have a rigid vang, you will need a topping lift.
  • Good-quality low-friction sheaves for the main halyard and reefing pennants.
  • Adding an Ewincher can make the process even easier and faster.

Desirable Gear

  • A full-batten main, while not required, makes reefing easier.
  • We used to reef off the wind without them, but it’s a lot easier with our current system.

The Technique

You can click on the photos to enlarge them so you can really see the details.

Step 1-Trim The Main

Trim the main in enough that it is well clear of the shrouds and spreaders.

Ease the preventer and trim the main in just enough that it is clear of the shrouds and spreaders and then re-tension the preventer.

Step 2-Ease The Vang

Ease the vang just a bit to take some of the load off the leach and to allow for the amount of reef rocker. (Any sailmaker worth his or her salt will have "rocked" each leach reef cringle up a bit to allow for the bunt of the sail and to bring the boom up a bit further from the water as the waves get bigger.) Careful not to ease too much or the upper part of the sail will contact the spreaders.

Ease the vang just a bit to take some of the load off the leach and to allow for the amount of reef rocker. (Any sailmaker worth his or her salt will have “rocked” each leach reef cringle up a bit to allow for the bunt of the sail and to bring the boom up a bit further from the water as the waves get bigger.)

Careful not to ease too much or the upper part of the sail will contact the spreaders.

Reefing Position

We reef and handle all halyards at the mast. This results in a lot less friction than leading lines back to the cockpit, less clutter, and you are where you need to be if anything jams. Note the substantial granny bars to lean against. Phyllis is clipping on to one of two safety tethers that we keep permanently attached at the mast, prior to un-clipping from the tether that runs on the jack line.

We reef and handle all halyards at the mast. This results in a lot less friction than leading lines back to the cockpit, less clutter, and you are where you need to be if anything jams.

That said, reefing from the cockpit works and can be done downwind too.

Step 3-Ease The Halyard

Phyllis has eased the main halyard only about 18 inches.

Phyllis has eased the main halyard only about 18 inches.

If Phyllis had eased the halyard the full amount of the reef, the sail would have bunched up against the lazy jacks and spreaders, jamming everything solid.

If Phyllis had eased the halyard the full amount of the reef, the sail would have bunched up against the lazy jacks and spreaders, jamming everything solid.

Step 4-Grind In Reefing Pennant

Phyllis is now grinding in the reefing pennant the same 18" that she eased the mail halyard. We have reefing winches on both sides of the boom and the pennants are double ended so that in the case of the 2nd and 3rd reefs, you can always reef standing to windward. However, the first reef is dead ended at the boom end to keep the clutter under control and because some fumble fisted idiot dropped one of the boom sheaves in the ocean when removing it for service. (I look at the silly SOB every morning when I shave.)

Phyllis is now grinding in the reefing pennant the same 18″ that she eased the main halyard.

We have reefing winches on both sides of the boom and the #2 and #3 pennants are double ended so that we can always reef standing to windward—the #1 pennant (shown in use) is single ended.

That said, reefing winch position is not critical, as long as you can see what you are doing while operating them.

Phyllis repeats steps 4 and 6 until the reef tack gets to the boom end and the reef cringle nearly so. She is in no hurry since the sail is not flapping and banging and she is not getting wet, as she would be if we had rounded up.

Phyllis repeats steps 3 and 4 until the reef tack gets to the boom end and the reef cringle nearly so.

She is in no hurry since the sail is not flapping and banging and she is not getting wet, as she would be if we had rounded up.

Here is what things look like half way through the process. Note that the sail is not up against the spreaders or shrouds and is only impinging a bit on the lazy jacks. Note that the vang is holding the boom in position. Without it the boom end would rise as Phyllis ground in the pennant, which would prevent her from keeping enough tension on the leach to stop the sail rubbing against the spreaders and shrouds.

Here is what things look like halfway through the process:

  • The sail is not up against the spreaders or shrouds and is only impinging a bit on the lazy jacks.
  • Without it the boom end would rise as Phyllis ground in the pennant, which would prevent her from keeping enough tension on the leach to stop the sail rubbing against the spreaders and shrouds.

Every so often, Phyllis takes the slack out of the 2nd and 3rd reef pennants so they don't get jammed in the bunt of the sail.

Every so often, Phyllis takes the slack out of the 2nd and 3rd reef pennants so they don’t get jammed in the bunt of the sail.

Step 5-Tack Ring

Nearly done. Phyllis drops the tack ring over the horn at the goose neck. There is one tack ring each side connected together with strong webbing through the reef cringle.

Phyllis drops the tack ring over the horn at the goose neck.

There is one tack ring each side connected together with strong webbing through the reef cringle.

Step 6-Tighten Halyard

Phyllis grinds the mail halyard tight, and then grinds the last few inches of the pennant in. When I said you need powerful winches for this, I was not kidding. Remember it is now blowing 20 knots true and the sail is fully loaded. Also, when you come to shake out the reef, which we do simply by reversing this procedure, you will need the powerful winch once again.

Phyllis grinds the mail halyard tight, and then grinds the last few inches of the pennant in.

We have marked the main halyard with black permanent marker at each reef position.

We have marked the main halyard with black permanent marker at each reef position.

Step 7-Tidy Up

Phyllis has unloaded the first reef from the winch using a clutch and in this photo has loaded up the second reef onto the winch so we are ready to go if the wind pipes up some more. Note that the reefing lines are all different colours and rope types so that it is easy for us to tell them apart. Phyllis adjusts the vang and eases the main sheet back out and we are done. If we are expecting really heavy weather, we put a safety strop through the cringle to take the load if the pennant breaks, and tie the bunt down with sail ties through the reef points and between the boom and the sail. But normally, the bunt just rests in the lazy jacks. And it took you more time to read this than it takes us to do it. I have timed myself at less than three minutes, soup to nuts.

Phyllis has unloaded the first reef from the winch using a clutch and in this photo has loaded up the second reef so we are ready to go if the wind pipes up some more.

The reefing lines are different colours and rope types so that it is easy for us to tell them apart.

Phyllis adjusts the vang and eases the main sheet back out and we are done.

If we are expecting really heavy weather, we put a safety strop through the cringle to take the load if the pennant breaks, and tie the bunt down with sail ties through the reef points and between the boom and the sail. But normally, the bunt just rests in the lazy jacks.

It took you more time to read this than it takes us to do it. I have timed us at less than three minutes, start to finish.

Further Reading

  • Our Online Book Sail Handling Made Easy .

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More Articles From Online Book: Sail Handling and Rigging Made Easy:

  • Six Reasons To Leave The Cockpit Often
  • Don’t Forget About The Sails
  • Your Mainsail Is Your Friend
  • Hoisting the Mainsail Made Easy—Simplicity in Action
  • Reefs: How Many and How Deep
  • Reefing From The Cockpit 2.0—Thinking Things Through
  • Reefing Questions and Answers
  • A Dangerous Myth about Reefing
  • Mainsail Handling Made Easy with Lazyjacks
  • Topping Lift Tips and a Hack
  • 12 Reasons The Cutter Is A Great Offshore Voyaging Rig
  • Cutter Rig—Should You Buy or Convert?
  • Cutter Rig—Optimizing and/or Converting
  • Cruising Rigs—Sloop, Cutter, or Solent?
  • Sailboat Deck Layouts
  • The Case For Roller-Furling Headsails
  • UV Protection For Roller Furling Sails
  • In-Mast, In-Boom, or Slab Reefing—Convenience and Reliability
  • In-Mast, In-Boom, or Slab Reefing —Performance, Cost and Safety
  • The Case For Hank On Headsails
  • Making Life Easier—Roller Reefing/Furling
  • Making Life Easier—Storm Jib
  • Gennaker Furlers Come Of Age
  • Swept-Back Spreaders—We Just Don’t Get It!
  • Q&A: Staysail Stay: Roller Furling And Fixed Vs Hanks And Removable
  • Rigid Vangs
  • Rigging a Proper Preventer, Part 1
  • Rigging a Proper Preventer—Part 2
  • Amidships “Preventers”—A Bad Idea That Can Kill
  • Keeping The Boom Under Control—Boom Brakes
  • Downwind Sailing, Tips and Tricks
  • Downwind Sailing—Poling Out The Jib
  • Setting and Striking a Spinnaker Made Easy and Safe
  • Ten Tips To Fix Weather Helm
  • Running Rigging Recommendations—Part 1
  • Running Rigging Recommendations—Part 2
  • Two Dangerous Rigging Mistakes
  • Rig Tuning, Part 1—Preparation
  • Rig Tuning, Part 2—Understanding Rake and Bend
  • Rig Tuning, Part 3—6 Steps to a Great Tune
  • Rig Tuning, Part 4—Mast Blocking, Stay Tension, and Spreaders
  • Rig Tuning, Part 5—Sailing Tune
  • 12 Great Rigging Hacks
  • 9 Tips To Make Unstepping a Sailboat Mast Easier
  • Cruising Sailboat Spar Inspection
  • Cruising Sailboat Standing Rigging Inspection
  • Cruising Sailboat Running Rigging Inspection
  • Cruising Sailboat Rig Wiring and Lighting Inspection
  • Cruising Sailboat Roller Furler and Track Inspection
  • Download Cruising Sailboat Rig Checklist

Geir ove

Looks good, but normal boats don’t have your nice setup. But it will work anyway, as long as they plan it well, and train on it in good weather.

john

Hi Geir Ove,

I agree, most boats, particularly production ones, have poor to downright useless reefing systems. I think that upgrading the reefing system and practicing with it is one of the most important things a boat owner should do before going to sea.

If you can reef easily, then you tend to do it when you should, rather than putting it off until it becomes an epic struggle.

I’m sure you know the old Q&A: Q: When should you reef? A: When you first think about it.

James

Thanks for doing this. Very useful and informative, and the slide show with captions works well, particularly with the photos enlarged to full screen. I take it you don’t worry about chafe on the pennants? Without a safety strop through the cringle taking the load off the pennant.

If we think the reef will be in for a while, we always tie in a safety strop to take the load if the pennant breaks. Having said that, we have never had a pennant break or even chafe much. In really heavy weather, we do refresh the nip twice a day. To do this you need a double ended pennant like ours.

Recently we went over to a low stretch Dacron covered exotic rope for the number one reef pennant. This is a great change since the lack of stretch cuts the chafe to zero. We will be changing the #2 and #3 reef pennants to low stretch rope this winter.

Matt Marsh

An interesting point, John, about using high-modulus line for the reefing pennants. Now that you mention it, it makes a lot of sense- these ought to be minimal stretch, just like halyards.

It’s nice to see an expert opinion in favour of having all the controls at the mast. Whenever there’s a boat show, I always see a few “latest and greatest” designs with everything led back to the cockpit- often through a complex array of sheaves and guides. It looks convenient, but I’ve always wondered what happens when such a setup jams, as almost everything on a boat will eventually do. (The best? Halyard led to a cockpit winch, reefing lines scattered all over the boom, tack ring on the gooseneck. Try reefing that with less than three people!)

As for format- the Flash slideshow is nice at home, but doesn’t run on my campus machines (we students don’t get local admin privileges, so all the software is a year or five out of date). It would be nice if the non-Flash version could be served up on request, not just to iThings.

You are so right about the mess that some cockpit reefing systems are. As you say, a major task for three people in daylight. One person in the dark does not bear thinking about.

I have been after the folks at SlideshowPro (the slide show software we use) to provide a non-Flash option for some time, if for no other reason than it would be much more search engine friendly. I will keep pleading. They did great on addressing the iThing issue after Steve Jobs had his hissy fit about Flash, so we will see.

Jonny

And wow, it’s obvious today that Steve Job’s was 100% correct in his assessment! Great article, thoroughly enjoyed and learnt much too. Thanks.

Steve Yoder

Very nice and very helpful, especially to a neophyte like me who has only read about these evolutions. Much easier to understand with the slideshow, which worked great. Don’t change a thing. Sure wish I had self-tailing winches.

Yes, self-tailing winches are one of those things that once you have them, you can’t imagine how you lived without them. Still, it’s really hard to throw away a perfectly good winch and spend the big bucks for self-tailing ones.

Having said that, I would put them at the top of your list for things to upgrade when the budget allows.

James Stevens

Great post. I also agree with you Matt regarding leading lines back to the cockpit. I can raise my main at the mast to about 90%, on my 35′ sloop in 30 seconds, hand over hand, but with the winch and the clutch back at the cockpit, I then have a real scramble on my hands. Reefing from the “comfort” of the cockpit also makes the process much more complicated than is necessary. Your scheme with two winches is particularly cool, and I am motivated to make changes to my rig and abandon all those “deck organizers”.

Hi James and Matt,

Yes, I think that leading halyards and reefing lines back to the cockpit is one of those things that sounds attractive in theory, but is in fact very hard to do well.

You need to use the very best roller bearing blocks available, which production boat builders just don’t do. The combo of a lot of sheaves and cheap gear is a real killer.

Also, even with great gear, it will always be harder to hoist sails on halyards led back to the cockpit because you can’t swing your body weight on them, as you can at the mast.

On MC with a really good and expensive main halyard mast sheave I can just get the main up to the top spreaders using my body weight. After that, I must grind. If the halyard was led aft, I would have to grind the main the whole way (over 60 ft)—simply not practical since it would be exhausting. Probably the only option would be an electric winch for the halyard—more complication and a lot of expense.

Not to get off topic or anything…but I’m curious, John, how much luff length do you think you could comfortably handle without becoming wholly dependent on winches? Now and then I hear 45′ with a 2:1 halyard mentioned as a sort of “upper limit” to what one person can hoist and reef comfortably, but it’s becoming common to see big (sometimes even powered) self-tailing winches on sails smaller than this.

I think that there are rather more variables than just luff length. The key issue, if the halyard is at the mast, is the weight of the sail, plus friction, as against the body weight of the person hauling it up. In other words, our main, with its 5 full length battens, weight somewhat more than I do. The result is that I can get the head to the top spreader and at that point my feet start to come off the deck and it’s time for the winch.

Of course a 2:1 halyard would solve that problem, but at the cost of having a main halyard 120 feet long! Also, even if we went that way, we would still need a powerful winch to properly tension the luff, although I guess one could use a handy billy of some type. Still and all, I think a good powerful two speed winch and a simple single part halyard is the best and simplest solution.

A luff length of 45′ would imply to me a much smaller mainsail than ours; probably half the weight, so I would think such a sail would be pretty easy to haul to the top on a single part halyard, but you would still need a way to tension the luff properly, and ideally be able to adjust that tension under load.

pipposail

..grazie mille da pipposail

Jay

Thanks for the detailed explanation of how you reef down wind. We follow a similar process but use our brakes on both the reefing lines and halyard so that we use only the large halyard winch instead of the smaller (inadequate) winch mounted on the boom for reefing by a PO. I like the double ended reefing lines you use and we’ll likely change to them so we can always be to windward of the boom. The slide show is very good and I think works better to ‘put it all together’ rather than bit by bit in the body of the ‘article’.

Norris

Great article, very useful. The pictures are absolutely superb, so clear – they look beautiful full screen on our iPad.

Thanks for setting up the slideshow such that it can also be viewed on the iPad, etc. I think it would be more effective if the information or caption automatically displayed at the bottom of each picture, as opposed to having to hit the “i” button at the top right of the screen.

By the way, the factor that tipped the scales when we were considering buying an iPad was the built in GPS. After 6 months of use we are hooked. Internet access just about anywhere with the combo of wifi and cellular data plan ($20/month), 12 hr of usage between charges, ereader for books and pdf of our boat manuals, photo archive, iPod for music, etc, etc. The Navionics app for charts of canada east coast, including Lab and Arctic, costs $25. The downside – daylight viewing is terrible, not weather resistant or water proof. Sorry, I didn’t mean to go off on a tangent about the iPad, but your slideshow pictures where stunning when displayed on the iPad. It is the first time I tried one of your slideshows using that device as I had thought the show would only work with Flash.

Regards, Norris

Dick T M/V Julia Bryant

Although not very pertinent to normal reefing systems on “leg ‘o mutton” sails, the gaff rig sure makes downwind reefing easier. You first de-power by dropping the gaff down.

Thanks to all for the great comments, keep them coming. Sounds like the slide show format is a hit, we will do some more of these.

A sharp eyed reader caught that we had the steps miss-numbered, fixed now, thanks for the heads up.

dietmar

Very interesting posting, we will definitely try it when the season starts again next spring. However, I am curious if anybody has tried this technique with swept back spreaders. On the previous boat with inline spreaders and only the upper two battens being full length we have reefed many times on our Atlantic crossings. With the previous boat we were afraid that there is too much pressure off the battens on the shrouds (friction, breakage of battens), however we have not tried the method with continuous tension on the aft leech.

No problem with slide show, but it’d be nicer without Flash, especially if you are not at home hooked up to the high speed internet. Regards, dietmar

Hi Dietmar,

I have never tried reefing on a boat with swept back spreaders but all that will change is the sail will have to be pulled further in to clear the spreaders.

Rickard S

Not sure if i am missing something here, but 95% of my reefing is done going upwind, and i just loosen the mainsheet a bit to take pressure off the main and keep sailing on the jib. When the pressure is off the main it will go up or down (i have full battens but no fancy cars) without a problem. I would not consider going downwind, unless the conditions were pretty bad. Richard

Hi Richard,

The key here is that most ocean and offshore passages are made downwind, at least by those of us who are a bit long in the tooth and a bit soft. On a multi-day offshore passage the wind will increase to the point where reefing is required many times and you don’t want to have to round up into big seas every time you have to reef.

Think for a moment about a typical trade wind passage with a reinforced trade wind. It is already blowing 25 true with 15-foot seas, not at all unusual. You have two reefs in and there is a black squall coming up fast from aft. You need the third reef and you need it fast. In this situation you do not want to have to round up to reef.

The other great thing is that once you have the third reef in, if things get truly silly, it will be comparatively easy to get the last part of the main down and go on under storm staysail or jib. Phyllis and I have clawed down the triple reefed main without rounding up in sustained 50 knot winds. Conditions in which I don’t even want to think about rounding up head to wind to strike the mainsail.

Finally, if you can reef easily to the third reef while heading down wind, you are then all ready to heave-to, if required.

Phil Streat

Very informative and useful; thank you. I see the advantages of having double ended reefing lines with a winch on each side of the boom but I wonder if you have a problem with sail material piled up on the boom interfering with winch and stopper operation.

Rob

Thanks. Can’t wait to try this on my catamaran. It shouldn’t be too difficult since the main halyard goes to the helm, so the job can be shared. I guess that for downwind sailing you wouldn’t need to worry too much about good halyard tension when hoisting.

John Harries

Although you don’t need a lot of halyard tension, you will still need a powerful main halyard winch, particularly to unreef while sailing downwind.

Chris

Of all of the pros and cons of in boom main sail furling, reefing is probably one of its strongest assets. We have a leisure furl in boom system with the halyard and the furling line lead to the cockpit. Once I have gone forward and attached the halyard I can raise, reef or stow from the cockpit. This can be done on any point of sail. The key is maintaining tension on the halyard when lowering and on the reefing line when raising the sail. I have an adjustable tensioner mounted on the coach roof next to an electric winch so it is easy for one person to handle. The other key element is maintaining the correct boom to mast angle so that the sail furls on the mandrel without walking forward or back. With a good vang and a little attention this is no problem. We had slab reefing on our previous boat. I would have to say that this set up has been much easier to use. Less problems with things jamming up, less acrobatics going forward when I would rather not and much easier for one person to accomplish.

Thanks for an interesting post on the benefits of in-boom mainsail furling. We did look briefly at the Leisure Furl system for Morgan’s Cloud but dropped the idea after seeing what the price tag and added complication would be.

Also, as a general rule, we like to keep things as simple as possible on MC. That is not a general criticism of in-boom furling you understand, just the way we like to do things.

One question: When we looked at the LS system, none of the vendors would commit to us being able to reef with the boat sailing down wind and the sail fully loaded up . Have you been able to do this, or do you need to round up to reef or furl in this situation?

Andrew Troup

Like John, I’ve always felt that it’s a major vulnerability to have to come up into the wind to reef. A boat can carry a lot more sail when running off than it can when beating. If the wind rises suddenly when running under maximum sail, it’s not an attractive proposition to flog the sail half to death while getting rid of some or all of it. On big boats it’s downright dangerous.

Having spent a few months sailing around NZ and the Sth Pacific on a 40′ boat with a tall (3 spreader) rig and a Leisurefurl system: The installation on this boat is a very good implementation and works well, but it is not feasible (in fact, it’s asking for a jam) to try to reef when broad reaching with the sail loaded up, which on this boat when at full hoist means anything over about 15 knots.

The only roller furling system I’ve sailed with which can be reefed in virtually any windstrength when running off is in-mast. To do this in really strong winds, it’s necessary to center the boom so the wind is flowing from leech to luff, and this should be done on whichever gybe puts the mast slot to leeward.

This technique is not going to appeal to many, and of course is not applicable to boats which cannot be steered accurately downwind in a blow.

I’m not a huge fan of in-mast furling but this ability would be a big advantage on some boats, for some people.

It’s hard to compete with the reliability and simplicity of slab reefing, and it seems to me that roller systems need to be really well thought out and engineered to even come close.

Thanks for confirming what I suspected about in boom furling and for the useful tip for reefing in mast systems, although I do share your worry about steering issues when centring the main downwind in a blow. All in all, your thoughts confirm my happiness with slab reefing.

We have only had this boat for one year so I can not claim to have tested it under every possible circumstance but here is what I have found. 1. Reefing is easy and can be done in any increment so I do it early and do it more frequently in smaller bites. 2. The sail needs to be flattened a bit so if I am deep off the wind I tighten up the vang and or sheet the sail in a little bit. 3. The actual roller furling system is less mechanically complex than I thought it might be. There is the addition of the electric winch (added stuff to break).

We had considered boom furling on our last boat but didn’t do it for the same reasons as you. Again not a definitive amount of data in one year but so far it is a big improvement.

Great information, Chris, thanks. If you have any more insights as you use the gear more, we will be interested to hear them.

Ed Seling

I hesitate to offer advice to such an august group but here is how I manage downwind reefing with the modest equipment I have. It’s not a perfect solution but it suffices in many circumstances. I work at the mast and a person on the sheet is handy.

1. Ease the main sheet all the way. 2. Raise the boom with the topping lift. About as much as the first reef point. 3. Pull the reef cringle most of the way down to the boom with the reefing pennant. 4. Sheet in the main. This will get some sail off the shrouds. 5. Ease the halyard and haul down on the luff. It may be difficult but probably not impossible. Hook the luff grommet to the reefing hook. (ease the reef pennant if you brought it too far down in step 3.) 6. Winch up the halyard to tension the luff. 8. Ease off the topping lift. 7. Trim the main sheet

It is really a variation on John’s technique without the two speed winches and bat-cars.

This may not work in a gale but give it a try in modest winds.

Scott

In this article it’s not clear (at least to me) how you’ve set up the double-ended pennants. I get that they are not fixed at both ends and are led aft through line clutches to winches on both sides of the boom. Right? But what about the aft end of the boom? Are the pennants led through cheek blocks on both sides of the boom and then to the leach cringle? That would be a nice setup indeed.

You got it, that’s exactly how it works. Another advantage of the system is that we can “refresh the nip” in heavy weather by easing out a couple of inches on one side and grinding it in on the other which reduces the chafe where the pennant goes through the leach cringle.

Ben

Interesting article John and all contributing commentors, I am constantly amazed at just how much good stuff you have on this site.. Anyway a few weeks ago I wrote something about reefing my main, totally independently from this (I should have searched here first…) but if anyone is interested see:

http://snowpetrelsailing.blogspot.com/2011/02/slab-reefingscratching-surface.html

The way I have been doing it more or less is the same as what is described here, but I don’t normally sheet the main in, I just drag it down the shrouds… More chafe I suppose, but helps the windvane keep her on course, and means I don’t have to adjust any preventers or boom downhauls.

I have never tried Ed’s system of using the topping lift and boom weight to help, although I have topped the boom up and pulled in the reef pendant BUT left the halyards alone. This stops the boom dragging in the water on some awkward boats with long low booms (a roll reef?). I must try to reef this way one day, but I suspect my reefing pendants are too far aft on the boom to enable the tack ring to be hooked on easily.

I like the foot of my reefed sail to be pretty tight, giving a nice flat sail. I often see boats with rather baggy reefed sails, and it seems wrong to me, but I guess it may take some load off the sail and reef pendant?

John, do you ever have problems with the sail getting chewed into the reef blocks on the boom? I have my blocks at the end of the boom to stop this, with the other end of the pendant timber hitched around the boom at the best spot. It is not possible to do this with your system, but then I suppose by pulling the pendant only from the windward side it keeps the sail pretty clear? Or maybe another solution is having lazyjacks or a boombag to keep the sail clear of those sail eating blocks…

Great piece on reefing on your site. It’s interesting how many similarities there are in our two systems.

You are quite right to worry about the damage done to the sail by being dragged into a cheek block on the side of the boom. I have seen this on boats I have raced on and far prefer setting up the way you do with a timber hitch. In fact that is how we have the first reef set up after dummy here consigned one of the sheaves to the bottom of a fjord in Greenland.

Having said that, we don’t seem to have much of a problem with damage from the blocks since ours are actual sheave boxes set flush into the top of the boom. (The reef pennants are internal.) Also, as you say, reefing from the windward side helps since the bunt is blown away from the sheave that is turning.

On leaving the pennant loose, I see this too, but I think it is more a function of poor gear and/or technique, not intent. To my way of thinking, there will be less load on a nice flat well set sail, not more. Also a loose pennant will contribute to chafe as everything moves as the boat goes over each wave.

Bill Balme

Can I clarify: You describe the reefing pennant – is that the correct name for what I call the clew reef line?

My boat is set up with 2 deep reefs, with clew and tack line for each reef led back to the cockpit. (I guess I get -1 for coming back to the cockpit… 🙂 )

I might now get another knock – I don’t put the tack cringle on a horn (I don’t have a horn) so it is simply left in the clutch and means I don’t have to go forward on a pitching deck. Is that a problem? (The tack line is brought a little forward to ensure the tack is kept good and close to the mast.)

We can reef on any point of sail – in much the same way as you – bit by bit. It’s really easy when we’re both at it – the wife lowers the halyard slowly while I crank in the clew reef line. We finish up by tightening the tack line so that the cringle is about level with the top of the boom and then grind the halyard tight. Being in the cockpit togehter makes for easy communication.

Since I’ll be pulling the mast this spring to prepare for a transatlantic, I can make changes if there’s good reason. What would you recommend? (I’m about to go looking around your site for reasons to reef at the mast!)

Thanks for a great description.

I’m not sure that “pennant” is any more correct than your “clew reef line”, but that’s what I call it.

I think the bottom line here is that if you have a reefing system that you have used in all weather offshore in a big sea that works for you, then it’s not broken, and you don’t need to worry about fixing it. As I say in the post, there are a lot of good ways to reef, not just ours.

I prefer reefing at the mast because it is much simpler and involves a great deal less friction. I also actually like getting out of the cockpit and “getting the stink blown off” as I call it.

Having said that, there are plenty of sailors that I respect that reef from the cockpit. Here is a great post by Colin on the tradeoffs .

Jack and Jude

Hello Phyllis and John, very similar system we’ve been using on Banyandah since getting our first slab reef mainsail in the 70s. We use a restrainer/preventer system. Agree on working position next to mast, our reefing lines exit the boom to a multi-sheave turning block at base of mast and then to winches on mast, everything handy, secure position. Question: We have just installed a new full length batten mainsail with TIDES track and car system – do you have to release your cars from the track. I see a large distance between cars, and wondered if sufficient cloth can be pulled down to engage the tack reef cringle without releasing cars. My cars are quite close, about 2′ apart. Great website – a real credit and service to our passion.

Hi Jack and Jude,

No we do not have to release the sail from the cars to reef. To us that would be a completely unacceptable complication. To make it easier to engage the tack with the horns at the goose neck, at each tack cringle we have two rings, one each side, permanently attached to the sail by passing webbing through the cringle and hand sewing it over. You can see this in the slide show.

But the real key to being able to get the sail attached at the tack is that each cringle fall equidistant between the luff slides and that the slides are not be too close—two feet sounds closer than they need to be. Your sailmaker should have got this right, but many do not.

Dave Benjamin

Did the sailmaker know the sail was intended for use with a Strong Track system? 2′ is too close and typically we’d reduce the number of slides between battens in a situation like that to give us a spacing of 30-32″. Just depends on the luff length. When we’re designing a mainsail, we’re always juggling the combination of slide spacing and reef placement. Typically we’re choosing to install one, two, or three slides between battens. Sometimes it makes sense to add another batten. We are building a replacement main for a Nordic 44 and the previous main had 6 battens. It seems like a lot but when you look at how well the slide spacing and stack height worked out, I think the designer chose 6 for that very reason.

I’d suggest a conversation with your sailmaker about possible remedies. The right way to do it would be to replace the luff tape and boltrope and start fresh. If you and I were in an anchorage somewhere, I’d add grommets, cover the old ones with insignia cloth, and call it good as a short term fix until you could get to a loft.

This is an excellent article. One thing I want to add though is that while a high quality ball bearing track and car system is practically mandatory on a large boat like Morgan’s Cloud, many of your readers will be well served with Strong Track from Tides Marine. It is extremely low friction and very simple. One of the things I like about it is the fact it doesn’t have bearings. It’s half the cost or less than the more sophisticated systems. Be perfect for the Adventure 40 (hint hint).

Funny you should say that. I’m just working on the A40 rig specification post. How do you like the Tides system as against the Antal, which I have had very good results from?

Tides will be 90%+ as good as Antal in terms of reducing friction at a fraction of the price. It’s not until you get into much larger sails that Antal or other premium systems really make sense. One reason you see them on smaller boats is the person doing the selling wants to make more money. My guiding philosophy is to recommend the product I’d buy myself, if I had the same boat and type of use planned as the customer. I’ve never had a customer express anything other than complete satisfaction with a Tides track system. An added benefit is ease of installation. I can install Strong Track in a fraction of the time it would take to install any of the competing systems. For the Adventure 40, which has an emphasis on simplicity and reliability, I can’t envision a better choice.

Thanks, Dave,

We will certainly look at the Tides, although I don’t remember the Antal as being that expensive since it is not roller bearing. We use one as the storm trysail track on MC.

The manufacturer retail price for a Tides system which includes the track and all of the luff hardware for the sail is $28.25/ foot. Naturally, as a boatbuilder, you would be buying at wholesale. If you are using a standard type of spar section for the mast, installation time for the track would be under 5 minutes. The sailmaker would install the Tides luff boxes and slides when the sail is manufactured.

Dave, the sail maker sold us the Tides System so he should have known how to lay out the slides and battens. We installed the battens yesterday and had a chance to examine his spacing and I’m sorry to say it’s every which way. I have written to him on this and another matter of too little roach. I shortened the hoist and foot by 3″ each to allow for a fuller roach of 20″/24″, but he in fact put in less, only 12″ Now we have even less sail area. The Tides people were ever so helpful. Ours is an old mast section that they had to especially machine to suit. First they air freighted the guides, and when none of their standards fit, they made a 6″ long sample section, air freighted that so we could run it up our track. That went sweetly. Very nice as we have four joints in our track. The 42′ long Tides section went up wonderfully well. Thinking of making up web straps to pass through the reef cringle and reach the horns on both sides. Have to check how that affects boom height at clew. I would have liked the clew up a bit higher with each reef. We’re out the water presently so can only fiddle when no wind. Thank you for your advice

Sorry to hear you’re going through these hassles. It’s odd that the spacing is random. When we design a sail, we mark the grommet locations in our software, so that when the materials are cut, the plotter makes distinct markings to preclude confusion. There are some situations where we’ll use non equidistant spacing but that’s pretty rare. Your clew reef cringles should be higher than the ones on the luff.

Feel free to get in touch with me offline.

Ernie Reuter

Can’t just say hi to John and Phyliss any more because the crew is getting bigger. So Hi to all….. We’re replacing reef lines on Iemanja, along with cleaning up the entire boom rigging inside and out. My question relates to lines used. The old lines were so large that they barely fit through the sheaves. They went through but not without creating a ton of un-needed friction. So I’m looking for line a line type that perhaps contains a spectra core for strength but has a cover that allows good holding power on the boom winch and rope clutches………and I’d like to size down as much as possible to reduce friction. Also what are your thoughts on stripping off the cover from the section of line that never hits a winch or rope clutch, thereby only have the spectra core pass over the sheaves and through the sail cringles? Iemanja is a Passport 40 with a mainsail of approx 400 sq ft. Thanks in advance for any thoughts you might have.

Ernie & Bette S/V Iemanja

Yes, one of the big advantages of using high modulus reefing lines is that you can go down a size so that they run more freely. We did just that on MC, and it works great. I’m sorry, I can’t remember off hand what brand of rope we used, but just make sure that it is one that stays soft and won’t hockle—ask a good rigger .

And no, I would not strip the cover. Racing boats do that to save weight, but i can’t see any benefit in doing it in this case.

Neil McCubbin

We reef downwind without any trouble, with a system quite like Morgans Cloud. We have a 550 sq ft main on a 66 ft stick. Andersen 52 halyard winch and an Andersen 40 for reef pennants, mounted below the boom with a jammer in the boom for each of the 3 pennants and for the outhaul. Our main is about 20% larger than the boats design, so we reef OFTEN. We have Battcars. We have T900 (spectra or similar core in Dacron outer braid( for pennants, they have done about 25000 miles with no sign of wear whatsoever at the leech cringles. One improvement over MC is that instead of hooking the luff ring over a horn (from which it can fall off) we have snap shackles fixed to the mast at the key spot, so that the luff cringle is captive when hooked on (Idea from Joe Cooper, ex 0f Hood)

Not sure I would call snap shackles an “improvement”. We like the hooks because they are very quick and easy to use one handed while the halyard is being eased with the other. Of course the flip side is they can drop off the hook—to each his own.

Neil

Sorry, I was not too clear. Rather than snap shackles, we use the Wichard snap hooks, which go on, and open, with one hand. Several people have commented that they are not sufficiently strong. I assume this is because they are an open hook, close dby s simple spring to prevent rope falling out. However the breaking load is 1500 kg (say 3300 lbs) which is plenty

I’ve seen the strops with snap shackle arrangement on a Lagoon 470 catamaran that we’re building a main and headsail for.

I’m not particularly keen on it but it has worked for my clients. One trick with horns if you don’t want the rings to fall off is to use a piece of fuel hose joining each horn. Pull the hose off, slide ring on horn, push hose back on and the ring can’t fall off.

I don’t think I would bother with the fuel hose because I just don’t find that the ring dropping off on our rig is a big enough problem to justify the additional complication.

Having said that, its a cool tip (thank you) that may be very useful to others because I think that slight differences in layout can make a big difference to how often a ring does drop off.

Peter Sotham

Thanks for the good article. I would like to add that we have found it extremely helpfull in addition to using the boom vang, and securing the position of the boom with preventers, is to FIRST raise the boom with the topping lift to meet the reefing point, and then take up the slack of the reefing line. Cheers, Peter

Paul

Excellent advice for a tricky and real problem. Thank you.

Would you be able to comment further on the helmsperson’s role during this process? Eg; what are the steering implications of running with the main trimmed in “well clear of the shrouds and spreaders.”

And do you use waves to assist, or at least minimise pressure? Eg; sit in a trough if possible to get out of the wind (or at least the worst of it)?

And what do you do if the vessel is lifted to the top of a wave and therefore exposed to greater windspeed? Bear away in the hope of getting over the wave back into the trough, or round up a little hoping to slide down the back of the wave, trusting the wave slope to compensate for the increased wind-induced heeling pressure?

Also, what do you do with the headsail, perhaps reef the main first so you have a full headsail drawing, maintaining boatspeed and therefore reducing wind pressure on the main?

Is there a practical upper windspeed beyond which this becomes impossible? i.e.; is there a point where Mother Ocean simply will not forgive you for failing to reef earlier?

This seems to me to be a very important topic. I hope you don’t mind all these questions.

Steering: No helmsperson, in that we almost always using the autopilot at sea. Having said that, you are right, trimming the main in does tend to make the boat a little hard mouthed, but not as bad as you might think since the vang is dumped off quite a bit putting a lot of twist in. And then as soon as the halyard is eased the problem goes away completely.

Waves: It would have to be a huge wave to tamp the wind down much, but what does happen is that the load comes off everything as the boat accelerates down a wave face, so that’s the time to crank like mad.

Headsail: No, the headsail will be reefed to whatever size is comfortable.

Upper wind speed: Yes, there probably is a wind speed that if you were caught with a full main, it would be difficult to shorten down, but it has never happened to us. And I do know that I can reef this way in at least 45 knots steady. Having said that, when sailing a 25 ton boat with just two people, it is very important to stay ahead of the situation—laziness will be punished.

The reliability of a simple reefing system is imperative. As much as they are a great help to monohulls , rarely do we see in-boom furlers or in-mast reefing systems on multihulls . Their higher loads and the fact that most multihulls have fully battened mainsails, which makes even in-boom furling complex, don't lend themselves to any other way of reducing sail except the slab or jiffy reefing system. This is by far the mostly reliable and best system to reduce the size of a catamaran 's mainsail.

Even if one only considers oneself a coastal sailor, reefing lines should be ready and pre-fed through the respective leach cringles. Reef systems vary but having only one line for each reef (leach and luff) which, along with halyards, can be led back to the helm,

Catamarans

will add to friction and greater mess in the cockpit. The advantage is that one does not have to climb forward to the mast to reduce sail. No matter what system one employs, it is a good idea to pre-feed at least 2 reefs out of the typical 3 reefs. This will prepare the boat for the worst conditions, without the need to rig lines when the wind suddenly increases. The leach of the mainsail is often equipped with reefing blocks, which are designed to ease loads, prevent chafe and make reefing easier. It is, however, my experience that a well reinforced, simple reef cringle is stronger and actually will be better in preventing chafe. In addition, it will be lighter, one less part to break and cannot foul.

Furling the jib is straightforward and beefy roller furling hardware has made the trip forward to handle jibs unnecessary. As you control the jib sheet, slowly ease it out until the sail starts to luff sufficiently for the reefing line to be hauled in. In stronger winds the line will wrap tightly around the furler, therefore it is important to have enough tail to completely furl the sail. When you partially furl the sail, the jib lead should be moved forward to retain proper clew-lead geometry and prevent a full sail. It is a good idea to check the furling line for chafe often and to double it up via a lashing when leaving the boat at a mooring for extended periods.

I often hear discussions concerning experiences in gale conditions and the necessity to reef at certain wind strengths. Very seldom, however, is the sea state mentioned. In my mind multihulls are much more affected by the sea state. Wave height and intervals are the primary consideration when making the above Usually, catamarans hardly lose any speed when reefed, but gain more balance and control. With a single reef in the main and a reduced jib, the Bahia 46 is ready for an increase in wind strength.

decision of when to reef. Of course, wind and sea state go hand in hand, yet often the waves do not correspond with the wind, as they might be left over from an older low pressure system. To simplify it, there is one basic rule of thumb associated with reefing: on a monohull you typically reef to the strength of the gusts, while on a multihull you reef to the strength of the lulls. Most catamarans are just as happy with reduced sail and you will be surprised how little speed you really lose with less sail. Slow down to a more moderate speed. Think of it as similar to slowing down your car when you come to a rough road by shifting into a lower gear for more control.

At what point does one reef? This is the most common question concerning multihull safety. The answer is deceptively simple and an often heard principle: "It is time to reef when you first think about it." This is not meant to disparage the importance of knowing that time. As you acquire more experience with your boat , the more "feel" you will get for the process. From the subjective point of view, when you begin to feel uneasy, apprehensive or concerned, it is time to reef. When the boat no longer has its feather-light touch at the helm, it is time to reef. When the lee bow seems to want to plunge and bury, it is time to reef. When you are no longer strong enough to crank in the sails, it's time to reef.

Reefing, as referred to in this section, includes both headsail and mainsail. As a rule, for masthead rigged boats going upwind, start by partially reefing the jib first; downwind, reef the main first. It is hard to generalize about fractional rigs. Sailing under main alone is typically far more controllable if the boat remains balanced. The fully battened mainsail, which has the most sail controls, is held on two sides by spars, and can be given optimum size and shape. Generally, it is important to reef main and jib together in order to assure that the boat remains in balance. For instance, simply reducing the main to the third reef and keeping a full jib will result in lee helm. Although less of an issue, but still possible, is severe weather helm. This happens when you only furl the jib but leave a full main. The stronger the wind, the more you will feel imbalance, which puts unnecessary strain on the autopilot and increases drag as the rudders are over-compensating. Therefore, always reef main and headsails together.

To sum it up, reefing depends on the force of the wind, the sea state, point of sail and the capabilities of vessel and crew. Above all, remaining humble and respectful of the elements will make you a better sailor. Following wind speed benchmarks will assist in determining when to reef which sail.

In light-to-moderate conditions, the mainsail can be reefed in a conventional way by heading up, easing the main and luffing. Yet, if you are overpowered by a strong beam wind, especially in big seas, I prefer to reef the mainsail by running downwind. This might sound completely untraditional and unorthodox, but modern mainsail sliders and a proper procedure will assure success. Since wind and sea state will demand reefing, rounding the boat head into the wind will only increase Apparent Wind and can expose a catamaran at speed to dangerous centrifugal forces. Beam seas are the most dangerous for a multihull and should be avoided at any cost, even if only for seconds. Conversely, falling off avoids this critical sector of seas; Apparent Wind is reduced and the motion of the boat is easier. Easing off the halyard and pulling on the reef lines will force the sail down. "It is not pretty," I always tell my crew, because the battens contort into S-curve shapes before they drop into the sail bag. Here is a little trick: to prevent battens from jamming against the mast you can load up a luff reef, or downhaul, and release the halyard when momentarily bearing away. The Apparent Wind will be briefly reduced, compression on the battens eased, and the main will slide down. Your lazy jacks will catch the excess sail and prevent it from billowing out. Reefing downwind is far more controllable and safer than having to turn the nose of the boat into the teeth of a gale and taking the waves onto the beam.

When you take a reef in the mainsail it is important to relieve the strain on the jammers under the boom, whose clutches can quickly chafe through them. Lead reef lines to winches instead.

On longer open-ocean passages, where rough weather is expected, it is particularly important to double up the reef.

By dead-ending a strong line around the boom, passing the end through the leech reef cringle, and tying the bitter end tightly around the boom, one has a second way to secure the reef. By easing the reef line slightly, one can then divide the loads between the two lines. This will subdue squealing of the below Gennaker and spinnaker sheet blocks are located as far aft as possible in order to accommodate the geometry of the large sails that they help to control. These blocks experience massive loads and must be secured with adequate backing plates beneath the deck.

Reef Cringle Blocks

leech blocks (if used) and prevent premature chafe, which could cause the reef lines to part. Acrobatics must be employed to perform boom work, therefore during this operation it is recommended to always wear a safety harness and have another crewmember spot you.

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Readers' Questions

How does reefing work on a catamaran?
Reefing on a catamaran involves reducing the area of the sails to decrease the amount of wind that the sails are exposed to. This reduces the power of the wind to slow the boat down while still allowing it to travel forward. The reefing process is done by shortening the sail size, either by rolling or folding the sail at the top or by rolling the sail up from the foot.
How to rig 3 reefs on a catamaran?
Rigging reefs on a catamaran is a process that allows you to reduce the size of the sail area in strong winds. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to rig three reefs on a catamaran: Familiarize yourself with the sail plan and reefing points: Before you start, study the sail plan and locate the reefing points on the mainsail. Most catamarans have reefing points marked on the luff (the leading edge of the sail) and the boom. Make sure you understand the setup. Prepare the boat: Ensure the boat is at a safe and stable position, either at a dock or anchorage, with the sails down. Make sure there is no tension in the sail before beginning the reefing process. Attach the first reef: Start by attaching the reefing line to the first reefing point on the luff. This point is typically marked by a reefing eyelet or strap. Pull the reefing line through this point and secure it to the boom using a sail tie. This secures the luff of the sail to the boom, reducing the sail area. Make sure the line is properly tensioned. Secure the reefing line: Once the sail is secured to the boom with the reefing line, make sure it is neatly organized and not likely to get tangled or caught on anything. Coil any excess line and secure it out of the way so that it doesn't interfere with the sail or rigging. Repeat for the second and third reefs: If your catamaran has additional reefing points, repeat the process for the second and third reefs. Attach the reefing lines to the designated points on the luff and secure them to the boom. Ensure each reefing line is properly tensioned and organized. Adjust the tension: Once all the reefs are rigged, check the tension of the reefing lines. They should be tight enough to secure the sail to the boom but not overly tight, as this may damage the sail or rigging. Adjust the tension as needed. Check the sail shape: Once the reefs are rigged, step back and examine the sail shape. Make sure the reefed sail retains a good shape and that there are no wrinkles or excessive draft. Adjust the tension or trim the sail if necessary. Test the reefed sail: If weather conditions permit, it's advisable to test the reefed sail before heading out into stronger winds. Raise the sail partially or fully, depending on the reef, and observe how it performs. Make any necessary adjustments to achieve optimal performance. Remember to always follow your catamaran manufacturer's specific instructions and consult a sailing professional if you are unsure or inexperienced in rigging reefs. Safety should be your priority when sailing in strong winds.
When to reef a caterman?
Reefing a catamaran occurs when the wind is too strong to safely and comfortably sail. The sails should be reefed when the wind reaches approximately 15 knots.
Do cruising cats have in mast furling?
Yes, many cruising cats have in-mast furling systems. These systems are designed to be used for sails such as genoas, mainsails, and spinnakers. They allow for easy adjustment and require fewer adjustments than traditional sails.
How to reef catamaran?
Reduce sail area: Depending on the type of catamaran and the amount of reefing necessary, you may want to start off by partially or fully reducing the mainsail. This can be done by rolling up the mainsail and tying it with a sail tie, or by partially reducing the sail area by moving the mainsail halyard and loosening the outhaul. Secure the jib: Once you have reduced the mainsail, you will want to make sure the jib is also reefed. This can be done by moving the jib sheet, tightening the jib sheet, and/or moving the jib halyard. Secure the reefing lines: Once you have reduced the sail area and secured the jib, you will want to secure the reefing lines. This will ensure that the sail remains secure during the reefing process. The reefing lines should be tied around the boom and the mast and then cleated off. Check the rigging: Finally, you will want to check the rigging to make sure it is secure and that all the lines are in the correct position. This will ensure that the catamaran is sailing safely and efficiently.
Where can i get mainsail prefeeder?
Mainsail Prefeeders can be purchased from various online retailers such as Amazon, Wayfair, Walmart, and Overstock. They can also be found in many sailboat and marine supply stores.
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Controlling Your Sails On A Catamaran

  • By Don Margraf
  • Updated: June 18, 2018

In monohull sailing, when you leave too much sail up in a building breeze the signs are clear: The rail is ­underwater, the dishes are on the floor, Grandma is terrified. The boat is dealing with ­excess energy by trying to ­lever a 5-ton lead weight out of the water; in other words, it’s heeling, spilling breeze, slowing down and rounding up.

Multihulls don’t behave that way. When you overpower a cat, it can only accelerate, dig a hole in the water or bust gear. No-heel sailing has a lot of advantages, but one drawback is the temptation to sail badly. You might easily go sailing with breakfast dishes on the table and postpone reefing until you’ve cleaned things up. In the meantime, the breeze is on, the boat’s impossible to steer and you shred a sail. One key to safe catamaran sailing is to learn when — and how — to reduce sail.

The best place to learn how to tuck in a reef is at the dock. Pick a morning with zero wind, and hoist. Practice reefing and un-reefing till you can do it in less than three minutes, blindfolded. If something jams or snags, stop. Find the source, figure out the cause and fix it. Look for inherent weak spots, chafe areas and jammed lines or sail slides. Study the whole system in slow motion and ­imagine how it will behave in howling wind, thrashing seas or on pitch-dark nights.

With the main down and flaked on the boom, go to the mast and haul up the main halyard, hoisting the sail as far as you can with two hands and no winch. Let it drop. Repeat and get a feel for the amount of friction built in to this most simple system. Then, if your lines lead to the cockpit, go back and repeat the procedure from where you would normally hoist the sail. Note how every bend and turn adds friction.

It’s important to have a solid understanding of your boat’s base-line resistance. When something jams in the dark, at sea, and you’re alone in the cockpit, you have to know nature’s little warning signs. Your evil inner voice will say, “You’re just tired. Put that thing on the electric winch!” You have to be able to argue back, “No, this is not the normal amount of friction. Something’s wrong.” Remember: There are no snag problems an electric winch can’t make worse.

While you’re at the mast, study the gooseneck. With the first reef in, look at the way the reef line is led to the deck and back to the cockpit. Look for friction and chafe. Push the boom out and back, making sure the reef line doesn’t change tension. Look back at the tail end of the boom, where the reef line passes through the leech. The reef line should pull both reef points in two directions: down and forward at the luff, and down and back at the leech. It should run through all its turns, from boom to cockpit, with minimal resistance. It might appear to be all clean and peaceful at the dock, but on big seas, everything is in motion. The slightest chafe whittles line down to bird-nest fodder in no time.

Next, work out your own checklist for reefing. It should be a simple list of the basic steps, in an order that goes something like this: 1) Ease mainsheet. 2) Set topping lift. 3) Ease halyard. 4) Tighten and secure reef line. 5) Re-tension halyard. 6) Trim sheet.

Reach for It

Once you’ve got it down pat at the dock and you’re ready for a test run, pack a lunch and look for a steady 15-knot breeze with plenty of sea room. Set a heading on a close reach, check sea room again and punch in the autopilot. Watch the autopilot drive for five minutes while you review your checklist.

When you’re ready, ease the mainsheet and let the traveler down until the main is completely de-powered. Adjust jib trim and autopilot heading until the boat stays on course, powered only by the jib; don’t fall off and let the luffing main fill again. The speed will go down sailing only on the jib, but the boat should balance, still on a close reach. Now go through your checklist and practice it step by step for both the first and second reef, hauling the sail up and down until you have it down cold or run out of sea room.

Reefing on a close reach has its own tricks and hassles, but I find it far easier than starting engines, pushing the bow into the wind, leaping off wave crests, pounding in troughs, watching for stray lines in the props and minding the ­flogging boom.

In the distant past, when mainsails had short (or no) battens, the sail flogged when luffing. This was considered hard on the sailcloth. The full-length battens on modern ­catamaran mainsails take the flog out of the sail but put it in the boom. This is considered hard on skulls, should they be in the way. An out-of-control boom also flails slack lines, which snag, bend, remove hardware and tie themselves in weird knots. It’s a deadly menace to life and property. I try to avoid it at every ­opportunity. Still, it’s good to ­practice reefing nose-to-wind, and also heaving to. It’s difficult, it tests boathandling skills and it helps prepare you for the toughest challenge: reefing while sailing on a run.

Before we head off downwind, let’s heave to for a ­minute and review. We like to practice at the dock, in dead calm, because, well, it’s calm. Everything’s easy.

So how to know when to reef? The first obvious answer is the wind-speed indicator. If your boat has an owner’s manual, it probably recommends reefing at 18, 28 and 35 knots or so. Every boat is different, and no rule fits every situation, but take it on faith that these are ballpark figures. Pick your own numbers, but be conservative, watch the wind speedo (hopefully it’s been calibrated) and stick to your rules till you know your boat well.

Do you put in the first reef at 18 knots true or apparent? Great question. Most cats pick up a lot of speed when they head downwind. This exaggerates the difference ­between true-and apparent-wind speed. You’ll especially notice this if you have set a gennaker or spinnaker and the wind is building. If you head up even a few degrees on these sails, the apparent-wind speed builds so fast you might have a shredded sail quicker than you can say “snap fill.”

Write your reefing-guide checklist with true-wind speed in mind, and make a note to clearly understand how your boat’s speed and heading affect apparent-wind speed and angle. Then make a note on the dashboard for downwind drivers: “Steer down in a puff.” The deeper downwind angle you sail, the less the apparent wind. And vice versa.

Most catamarans have shrouds placed far aft, and no backstay. That means the boom cannot swing out as far as on typical monohulls, and therefore the jibe angle is smaller. The boat has a narrower range of downwind sailing angles. For this reason, and a few other architectural ones, cat sailors don’t often sail dead downwind, at least not with the main up. It’s a big sail, with lots of roach in the leech; long, heavy battens; and, on many boats, a traveler that’s 10 or more feet long. When you jibe one of these accidentally in 25 knots, it’s like lifting a cat by the tail: You discover new things that can’t be learned any other way.

A lot of good sailors will say you can’t reef that big sail when it’s loaded on a run. But something about turning into a huge following sea is a motivator to try. When you turn into the wind to reef, and start taking big waves on the beam, even though you know that in ­theory your boat was designed not to capsize, all your senses will scream, “We’re going over!”

So before you get caught out in 20-foot seas with too much canvas up, it’s best to learn how to reef the big main while sailing hard, downwind.

Downwind Basics

You can work out the basic moves and hardware at the dock. But to feel the pressure, the friction you’re up against when sailing on a run, it’s good to have a long stretch of wide, flat water and at least 15 knots of steady breeze.

If you have the luxury of crew, this is the time to put your best downwind driver at the wheel. If you are cruising alone, or with a mate, your autopilot is your best friend and the most important piece of gear on the boat. Most autopilots have a wind function; instead of a magnetic heading, they will steer to an apparent-wind direction. This is where you learn to use it, adjust it and trust it. The boat has to maintain a rock-solid wind angle, and you need to be able to tweak it a few degrees, up or down, and trust it won’t lurch into a round-down wild jibe.

Before you punch the autopilot into duty, set your heading and sail trim on a deep downwind angle that’s balanced and easy to steer. If you’re struggling, zigging off and zagging back, fighting a heavy wheel, the pilot will struggle too. Eventually something will break. If your ­heading swings too far, the autopilot may give up trying to hold course and eventually switch itself off. (There’s a Catch-22 to all this: If you’re overpowered and out of balance, it’s hard to safely reef because it’s hard to hold course. But this is when you need that reef the most. Practice in lighter breeze and work up to the big stuff. And learn to reef sooner rather than later.)

Even in lighter wind, with the main sheeted out and traveler down, there’s plenty of friction on the mainsail’s luff cars. The sail likely won’t come down on its own, and even the reef line on a winch won’t feel effective. The simplest solution is for someone to stand at the mast and pull down on the luff of the sail. If you can safely get there in the dark and reach the sail, this method, being the simplest, has beauty.

But regardless, you already thought about this back at the dock, and you have rigged some kind of downhaul that lets you pull down on the sail from a position where you feel safe. It can be as simple as a separate line, tied to the top luff car, that is led to the base of the mast, or better yet to a manual winch either on the mast, cabin top or at the helm (to be used as a last resort!).

There are times when even an athlete at the mast, using a well-rigged downhaul, won’t budge the sail. Try bringing the mainsheet in 2 feet and try again. No? Alter heading slightly and try again. Bring in a couple more feet of sheet. ­Double-check the main halyard. No snags? Keep tinkering with sheet angle and heading, downhaul and reef-line pressure in tiny increments — but don’t jibe! Try even moving the traveler up a foot or two. ­Remember, the reef line has to pull the boom up a bit to meet the lowering leech cringle, so changing the sheet geometry can help.

If all else fails, you might have to put your downhaul on the (manual!) winch. Here, again, all your dock practice pays off because you need a good feel for how much friction is too much. You need to know if something is about to break.

If you keep tweaking the sheet and heading in small bites, and you don’t break something, the sail will finally move down an inch or two, and that’s all you need, a start. From there you can keep ­inching it down.

When you have the reef point locked down, give the autopilot a break. Steer the boat to see if it’s easier and better balanced with less sail. If you still have sea room in your practice space, take a break, open the lunch bag, review your checklist and then practice reefing the jib. You’ll find challenges there too in big wind, even though it rolls up.

Practice Makes Perfect

Every boat and every sea condition is a little different. Experimenting in all kinds of settings is the only way to learn the personality of your boat. There are devilish details: lazy jacks that snag battens, sail covers and Biminis that block the view. Besides their sails, catamarans have lots of sail area in fiberglass and gelcoat. When you’re sailing downwind, all that vertical surface you see from behind equates to sail area, and most of it is aft of the mast. I’ve sailed cats at more than 17 knots with no sails at all! So the dynamic balance of a cat is different from a monohull.

When you start tinkering, you’ll find most cats sail well, even tacking upwind, on jib alone. But they hardly sail at all on just the main. As big as the main is, that seems counterintuitive. But when I’m alone on the boat and both engines die at the worst moment, the first thing I reach for is the jib sheet and furling line. Before the anchor, before the radio, before the life jacket, I roll out the jib. Try it.

Learn your boat! When you understand how it reacts in various conditions, you’ll pick up other little clues that tell you if it’s overpowered. I can tell a lot just from the sound of the water tumbling off the transom. There are lots of cat sailors out there now. Go to school on the stuff they broke. Like electrics, every mechanical system should have a fuse. If you break something, before you beef it up, ask yourself if that was the best place for an overload failure. A raceboat owner summed that up best for me years ago, and I never forgot: “Guys, we sailed hard enough to break some stuff, but it wasn’t ­expensive. Great job!”

Don Margraf is a West Coast multihull sailor, rigger and yacht broker who mastered the finer points of boathandling at Trial & Error U.

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Reefing a Catamaran

Here’s a question from a student.

>>>>>>>

I would like some clarification on the steps taken to reef a main sail on a cat.  I’m going out on a 48ft cat and prob want to reef the sail before i go out….

Do i reef it while at the dock or in the water while heading into the wind?

it is best to reef the sail once its all the way up through the lazy jacks and then lower it?

>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Reefing a catamaran main sail is exactly the same as reefing a monosail main sail. At the dock, if you can get access to the reefing points, you can tie the forward reefing gromet down and secure the leech reefing lines. However this is sometimes a bit difficult.

So you can also do this as the sail raises up when you’re out on the water, or you can get the sail all the way up and then lower it to the reefing points.

When you’ve got lazy jacks involved, its still not that difficult, but you just have to ensure the battens are not getting caught up in the lazy jack lines. To do this just make sure that the boat is held directly into wind and the main sheet is slightly loose so that the sail blows downwind and in between the lazy jacks – hopefully. It’s not completely easy and you have to keep an eagle eye on the battens – but also don’t forget to maintain lookout ahead.

Thanks for the question – happy to help.

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How To Reef A Sail – A Beginners Guide

Does the idea of strong winds when out sailing freak you out? Plenty of sailors miss great sailing days for fear of squalls or increasing winds. But even if you do get caught out with strong winds approaching, you don’t need to worry. Once you learn how to reef a sail, you’ll be able to confidently sail in any condition.

Sailboats are made for the ocean and its weather. That’s why all it takes is learning how to sail to be safe. When yachts get into trouble, it’s often the crew at fault rather than a flaw in the boat! Understanding how wind strength and sail plan affects your sailboat will give you the tools to fearlessly go on an adventure.

WHAT IS REEFING?

Reefing is simply making a sail smaller. This is usually done in response to the increasing wind. Reefing down a sail allows you to continue sailing without being overpowered. This keeps the boat under control and often makes the journey more comfortable.

A sail that is too large for the wind conditions could be dangerous as it provides too much resistance for the boat. Putting off reefing, especially for a squall or very strong winds, is a bad idea. It can result in the sail ripping, the boat heeling over dangerously or even the mast breaking.

Reefing can seem overwhelming but in reality, it’s a fairly simple action. Once you’ve reefed, even strong winds will seem considerably more manageable and the conditions will be far less daunting.

DO YOU NEED TO REEF?

When you need to reef will depend on the boat you’re sailing. Some boats will need to be reefed considerably earlier than others. Lightweight yachts often need reefing much earlier than heavy, more traditional yachts.

If your sailboat has a heavy, full keel, chances are you’ll be able to hold full sail for longer than a fin-keeled lightweight cruiser. In increasing winds and relatively safe waters or conditions – small waves, daylight – you can wait until the boat feels like she’s starting to strain before reefing.

In more difficult conditions – large waves, twilight or dark – you will want to reef in anticipation.

Unless you are continuing a particular course, you may not need to reef at all. If you need to turn downwind, for instance, you can turn sooner and keep a full sail.

Often, you can reef just the foresail to reduce pressure while keeping the center of effort further aft for better performance (unless you’re a catamaran).

TYPES OF REEFING

Reefing the main.

Mainsails have reefing points sewn into them when they are made. Yachts expecting strong winds may well have a three-reefed mainsail. This gives them more opportunity to reef in different winds. Day sailing yachts might only have one or two reefing points as they wouldn’t be out in exceptionally strong winds.

To reef the mainsail, the boat must be turned up into the wind to take the pressure off. You don’t want to turn it so much that the boat tacks itself or that the foresail starts flogging madly. Easing the mainsheet will also help take off the force.

After the pressure has been taken off the sail, you’ll need to release the kicking strap/vang (the rope or arm holding the boom down) and tighten the topping lift. The weight of the boom will now be taken on the topping lift and not the sail.

After you’ve reefed and tightened up the main halyard again, you can loosen the topping lift and tighten the kicking strap/vang.

SLAB REEFING

Slab reefing is the preferred method for serious offshore sailors including the famous Skip Novak . This is the act of folding the bottom of the sail down until you reach your desired reefing point. In slab reefing, the mainsail is lowered down onto the boom and then secured at it’s new smaller size.

Many modern yachts use a lazyjack system which creates a pocket for the mainsail to reef down into. If your lines lead back to the cockpit and you have a single-line reefing system, the process is straightforward.

Simply lower the main halyard down until the reefing point reaches the boom. Then, cleat it off. Pull the reefing line until it tightens the luff and leech of the sail.

With lazyjacks, the excess material will be safely contained. Without lazyjacks, you’ll have folds of material flopping around the boom. You’ll need to tie these using the metal eyes sewn into the sail along the reefing point.

If you don’t have lines leading back to the cockpit, you’ll need to reef the sail while standing at the mast. After lowering the halyard to the reefing point, you can hook the reefing point and pull the reefing line to tighten the new foot.

IN MAST REEFING

In mast reefing is popular with modern yachts and charter yachts. This type of reefing rolls the mainsail into the mast as opposed to dropping it down onto the boom. In mast reefing is usually very straightforward and extremely quick. This is performed by pulling on the furling line.

Long-distance sailors or sailors likely to encounter unpleasant conditions may steer away from in mast reefing. This is due to the risk of the furling system causing a mast jamming. In a jam, it may become impossible to reef the main or take it down at all. This situation can quickly become extremely dangerous.

BOOM REEFING

Boom reefing is where the mainsail is rolled around or furled inside the boom. Possibly the least popular type of furling, boom reefing can be difficult and has a few downsides to it such as the boom becoming larger than it would be otherwise and the shape of the sail getting lost.

Boom reefing is performed simply by releasing the main halyard down and pulling the furling line until the sail reaches the desired size. Boom reefing technicalities depend on the make of the furler but are usually very easy to operate.

FORESAIL REEFING

Foresail reefing is quick and easy. It is a great way to reduce overall sail area fast. Many yachts perform best with the power in the center of the boat, i.e. the mainsail. So, reefing the foresail before the main can be ideal to maintain the forward drive.

Most sailboats have a roller furling system for the foresail and reduce the size of the sail to however small they like. Reefing a foresail requires easing out the sheet so that the sail loses the wind and the pressure is taken off.

Then, you can pull in on the foresail reefing line until the sail is the desired size before cleating off. Winch in the sheet until the sail is set and you’re reefed down!

REEFING OTHER BOATS

While we’ve only talked about reefing a sloop, you can reef almost all sailboats. The only boats that you often cannot reef are those with hanked-on sails. When the wind gets too strong in this case, the sails must be swapped out for small ones.

Reefing catamarans  is a good example of needing to reef the main and not the foresail. The foresail of a catamaran creates an upward lift, which is important to prevent the cat from burying its bows.

WHAT HAPPENS AFTER REEFING

Reefing either sail will slightly change the way the boat is handled. Depending on which sail is reefed or reefed the most may cause the boat to come up into the wind or bear away from it. The helmsman will feel the change and should adjust the steering accordingly.

If the reefing caused the boat to drop a large amount of momentum and is suddenly slopping about in the water, you have reefed too much. In gusty or squally conditions, it can be difficult to know how much to reef or exactly when to reef.

If you see a squall approaching, you may have to put up with wallowing a little under a deep reef before the squall hits you. When it does though, you’ll be glad you reefed!

GO SAILING!

Reefing is an essential skill for sailing. However, the fundamentals are so simple that you’ll soon easily get to know the reefing systems on your boat or the boats you sail. Having the knowledge to reef will give you the confidence to go out sailing in some great conditions.

A great tip for setting out into strong winds is to reef before you even leave the harbor! It’s often easier to put out more sail than to reef it in. So, start smaller if you think the wind strength might call for it.

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SUNREEF 88 DOUBLE DECK: A catamaran designed for ultimate comfort!

680 m² of canvas downwind, 460 m² upwind, the Sunreef 88 DD is a real sailboat making 7 knots in just 10 knots of wind

The 88 DD is an imposing catamaran with an air draft of over 40 meters... Welcome to the outsized world of superyachts!

The sheer of the deck makes it possible to house a jet-ski on the sidedeck while maintaining good headroom in the cabins...

On the flybridge, behind the helm station, you find all the indispensable features for relaxation: sunbathing, barbecue, bar and a magnificent 35m² of space

The helm station located on the flybridge allows for handling everything on the entire cat while offering an ideal view of the water.

The aft cockpit encircled by loungers is very large. The skipper's cabin is hidden under the bench seat of the big table. Beneath the stairway, there is access to the day toilets without having to go through the interior of the boat

The Sunreef 88 DD hasn’t forgotten any of the rules of super-yachting. Attention to detail and refinement is everywhere on board, making life enjoyable

The cockpit interior offers a good view forward across the water. From here, you can handle the boat while staying warm during night watches.

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With their new 88  footer from the Double Deck range, Sunreef are unveiling an ultra-comfortable cruising catamaran built for an experienced boating family, and are confirming their ability to complete fully customized projects on the same timescale as production boats.

It took no more than 9 months for the Sunreef 88 DD, first announced at the 2016 Cannes boat show, to see its hulls hit the water in Gdansk, Poland.  Yet this is not just a well-honed semi-custom boat, but a brand new model in the range which is already known to connoisseurs and necessarily demanding owners. Having owned many of the best in English and Italian motor yachts, this family got into sailing with a beautiful 25 meter ketch.  The natural instability of a heeling monohull prompted them to ask Ian Sellers, their skipper, to think of another solution.  The choice of a sailing catamaran was a logical one: the space, stability, low draft, panoramic view and the economical running are irrefutable arguments for those who want XXL-sized comfort.  

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A good average speed to cross the Atlantic or to reach new anchorages in the Caribbean islands after a beautiful summer season in the Mediterranean also guided their choice.  It simply remained to find a shipyard capable of satisfying the wishes of the owner.  With a budget of more than 4 million euros, this owner was looking for a boat that was not just ultra-equipped and of the highest quality, but a unit that was entirely made ...

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Description.

The start of the ambitious Sunreef 88 Double Deck project was officially communicated during Sunreef Yachts’ press conference at the Cannes Yachting Festival 2016. After eight months of intensive work, the shipyard proudly announced the launch of this catamaran with a zealous, sporty look.

An experienced yachtsman switching from a massive motor yacht , the owner decided to commission the Sunreef 88 Double Deck to pursue a more stable navigation style with greater living space. Indeed, a challenging project for the shipyard’s engineering and design teams.

Nonetheless, this journey was destined to keep the promise of delivering a state-of-the art fully customized sailing catamaran from the start. To achieve the goal of building a seaworthy and dynamic catamaran, Sunreef Yachts’ team of naval architects conceived a completely new yacht design which seemed far sportier than the rest.

Same as all yachts within her range, the Sunreef 88 Double Deck too features a mezzanine level inside the saloon and a spacious master stateroom with a panoramic view in the bow part of the main deck. However, her superstructure was granted a more aerodynamic aspect. As a result, the 88-footer emphasis equally on both performance and luxury, offering over 300m² of living space and an outstanding sailing experience.

Despite this, the Sunreef 88 Double Deck remains a family-friendly yacht offering the best of comfort and safety. The innovative composite superstructure of the sailing yacht conceals a smart and functional layout with luxurious accommodations for eight guests and up to five crew members.

Upon the owners’ request, the interior decor of the Sunreef 88 Double Deck features exclusive natural materials: Chambord oak, linen, leather, natural stone, and quartz tiles – all contribute to the warm and welcoming atmosphere of the sailing yacht . The feeling of warmth was also achieved through applying numerous orange accents to the interiors – an important color for the owner’s family who consider it to be a symbol of energy.

For comprehensive information and guidance on our products, contact us .

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The Company offers the details of this vessel in good faith but cannot guarantee or warrant the accuracy of this information nor warrant the condition of the vessel. A buyer should instruct his agents, or his surveyors to investigate such details as the buyer desired validated. This vessel is offered subject to prior sale, price change, or withdrawal without notice. Photos may not properly reflect the current condition of the actual vessel offered for sale. In some cases stock photographs may have been used.

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Engine and generator hours are as of the date of the original listing and are a representation of what the listing broker is told by the owner and/or actual reading of the engine hour meters. The broker cannot guarantee the true hours. It is the responsibility of the purchaser and/or his agent to verify engine hours, warranties implied or otherwise and major overhauls as well as all other representations noted on the listing.

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New Sunreef 92 Double Deck Sailing Catamaran

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From the same people who brought you the original Sunreef Yacht, comes the new Sunreef 92 Double Deck , with a new design which not only streamlines the deck house, but tops it with a giant 40 m 2 fly bridge.

This was inspired by similar designs found on other super yacht designs. In collaboration with K-Epsilon and Rivoyre Ingenierie , The Sunreef Naval Architecture Bureau has intensely studied performance and sea capabilities using state of the art CFD, computational flow dynamics to create the ultimate in catamaran luxury.

Using integrated stepped hull chins, the Sunreef 92 Double Deck catamaran increases interior space, without compromising performance. Now this yacht can accommodate up to 10 guests, in up to 5 double luxury suites, as well as a crew of four.

Sunreef’s 92 Double Deck also features a canoe style boom and carbon mast, one of this manufacturer’s specialties. How are they able to accomplish such feats? They added a new mezzanine floor, which includes a coffee table and lounge, located on the port side of the main deck dining area, freeing up more space below for larger cabins and storage space, or even more suites if you prefer.

Because of this innovative design modification, now the owner’s suite occupies two floors of the entire front area of this yacht, with a private luxury office, gym and leisure area on the upper level, with the bathroom, wardrobe and storage area below deck. Each cabin has an extended size, three way access to their King sized beds, with spectacular panoramic sea views. Not only this, but each luxury suite comes with its own separate bath and shower area, large closets, storage lockers, as well as their own air conditioning and a comprehensive entertainment system.

With a LOA of 27 meters, an 11.2m beam, and a 1.6m draft, this super yacht has a 80 ton displacement. It will also be powered by two 405HP 1200 L/3170 Gal engines, and will be able to cruise at speeds up to 15 knots. The 70m 2 cockpit will also include a large dining area, sunbathing mattresses, and diving equipment. Its spacious fly bridge is fitted with a jacuzzi, two wet bars, barbecue, ice makers and even a pair of jet skis. It will also include a tender, hidden in a specially built locker under the main sun pad of the cockpit.

Even though this is only the second of such models, it isn’t hard to see why the Sunreef 92 Double Deck sailing catamaran is on it’s way to be one of the most sought after luxury yachts. With it’s innovative design, state of the art electronics, and focus on luxury, the Sunreef 92 Double Deck is top of the line, and a must for people who may still think they have it all. Don’t miss out on your own little piece of paradise.

Sunreef 92 Double Deck specification:

Length overall: 27.00 m/88.85ft Beam maximum: 11.20 m/36.60ft Lightship displacement: 80 T Draft maximum (dagger boat): 1.60 m/5.2 ft Mast clearance: 43.20 m/ 142 ft Mast height: 35.40 m/ 116ft Fully battened main sail: 280 m²/3013 ft² Gennaker: 350 m²/3767 ft² Genoa: 160 m²/1722 ft² Solent: 90 m²/ 968 ft² Main engines: 2 x 405 HP Fuel capacity: 12000 L/3170 Gal Water capacity: 2 x 2000 L/2 x 528 Gal Cruising speed on sails: 15 knots Guests : 10 Crew: 3 Naval Architecture/Design/Builder: Sunreef Yachts

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A seafaring adventure on island routes double-decker catamaran cruise.

A seafaring adventure on Island Routes double-decker catamaran cruise

Embark on a luxury catamaran cruise adventure out of Ocho Rios, Jamaica that takes adventure to new heights.

Standing on the dock, I pause a moment to let my gaze travel slowly upwards at the gleaming catamaran floating before me. Rocking gently in the calm Caribbean Sea, the beautiful double-decker  Calipsoul  seems familiar yet exciting and new to me all at the same time. I had chosen Island Routes Catamaran Dunn’s River Cruise the last time I was in Ocho Rios, Jamaica. It had been the perfect combination of relaxation and excitement that I had been looking for. We had also done the romantic Lovers Rock evening cruise, literally sailing into the sunset together. Making the cruise reservation Both times it had turned out exactly as promised and this time around when I knew I was heading back to Jamaica, I reached out to the wonderfully helpful Island Routes team yet again. I spoke with them about how much I had enjoyed the last catamaran excursion I did with them and shared that this time I would be coming with a group of friends and family of all ages. I had enjoyed the snorkeling aspect of the Dunn’s River cruise so much but it had been fairly short and some of my group said they really wanted to let loose and relax.

Island Routes Reggae Family catamaran cruise They suggested the Island Routes Reggae Family catamaran cruise. They explained that it was like The Dunn’s River cruise minus the climbing, which my mom was happy to hear about, and a lot of time spent exploring the underwater world. Then they told me how great my timing was as they now have a brand new double-decker catamaran! To be honest, I couldn’t quite picture it so I didn’t know what to expect. Standing here, about to step onto the Calipsoul , I am filled with delight as the kids all leap aboard. We aren’t the only family on board that day and as my group is fairly large, coming over on the shuttle service from the Beaches all-inclusive family resort, I had been worried about feeling crowded. Yet, what we discover is the perfect blend of being able to find ample areas for ourselves while also having the opportunity to meet other people as equally excited as we are.

Snorkeling lesson Once in the water, we are directed by the crew, who have joined us, where to swim and, along the way, they make sure to point out coral formations and beautiful fish ensuring we have an amazingly immersive experience (pun intended). I explore for ages and I am very excited as I brought my waterproof camera with me this time and aim to meet my self-imposed challenge of taking an underwater selfie with tropical fish. Although unsuccessful because they move pretty quickly, I still have a blast. Suddenly, someone is tapping me on my shoulder and I pop my head up to see one of the crew members guiding me back to the boat. Making my way back I realize that, as strong a swimmer as I am, I’m pretty happy to have the life vest on as it allows me to keep looking underwater while I make my way back without having to put in too much effort in keeping myself headed in the right direction so all my focus is on the magical world below me. Trampoline for the kids, hammocks for the adults We climb aboard and the teenagers head to the trampoline area (I was told that’s what it’s called). For people who may not normally hang out on a boat, this area serves an engineering purpose but is also a pretty cool place to just hang out on as it’s like a flat stretched-out hammock where you can just lay out and chill. I divest myself of the fins, mask, and vest and realize I’m pretty hungry! Lunch on the ocean Luckily, the food comes out and everyone piles up their plates with tropical fruit, delicious wraps and chips, and salsa, and we head for a sunny spot on the upper deck of the catamaran. We start chatting with other people and decide it’s just about the right time for the rum version of that delicious fruit punch (after all we’re in Jamaica, how can we pass up the delicious rum when no one is driving or diving). My husband opts for a cold Red Stripe instead and leans back to work on his tan. Learning Jamaican dance moves We hear music and a lot of laughter below and realize the trampoline is empty. I decide to leave my husband happily tanning and I follow the music only to discover a full-blown dance class, as the crew is teaching everyone the latest Jamaican dancehall dance moves. Although I feel a little self-conscious when I join in, that quickly fades away as everyone tries their best to match the expertise of the crew. Over on the right, two little girls have their own crew member showing them what to do and they catch on quickly, delighted grins lighting up their faces. I manage to muddle through and I’m pretty sure my sister is going to show these videos to everyone once we get back home for an evening full of a similar level of laughter at my expense. In that moment though, I don’t care. I feel the salt from the sea drying on my skin, my hair is a tousled mess and I’m dancing with my children in the middle of the Caribbean Sea. This, I think, is what happiness is.

Check out the website  for more information on Island Routes' catamaran cruises and other excursions they offer in Jamaica and elsewhere in the Caribbean. They’ll help you to book your perfect adventure today! You can also chat online or call  US Toll-Free: 1.877.768.8370 Toll-Free Caribbean: 1.800.744.1150 International: 1.305.663.4364

Also, read  Take The Driver's East Seat On An Island Routes Mini-Routes Adventure .

Stay tuned for the latest updates and discounts.

Facebook:  @IslandRoutes Instagram:  @IslandRoutes Twitter:  @IslandRoutes

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First Sunreef 88 double deck catamaran launched

The first hull in the Sunreef 88 range of double deck sailing catamarans has been launched in Gdansk for a European owner, the Polish yard has announced.

This fully personalised multihull superyacht measures 26.82 metres LOA and was styled inside and out by the in-house team at  Sunreef Yachts .

In a statement, the Polish yard added that the design of the Sunreef 88 is “a great display of the shipyard’s non-conformist attitude and a genuine example of an avant-garde sailing catamaran concept”.

Captain Ian Sellers added: "She is a beautifully crafted, fully customised transoceanic catamaran, with superb quality and finish."

The design brief was focussed on three key themes: luxury, performance and privacy. To this end, the Sunreef 88 features more than 300 square metres of living space — an impressive figure for a yacht of this size, proving that bigger isn't always better .

This two-deck sailing yacht will feature an extensive flybridge with a central helm station and plenty of al fresco dining and relaxation spaces. Back aft, the cockpit features a central dining table with seating space for ten guests as well as a second sunbed, making good use of the Sunreef 88's 11.2 metre beam.

The in-house design includes sporty and dynamic exterior lines, as well as a fully customised interior layout. Key features include a mezzanine level in the saloon and a main-deck owner's cabin , which boasts superb views out to sea through panoramic windows.

Auxiliary power comes from a pair of 425hp engines drawing on a total fuel capacity of 8,000 litres, while her total sailplan is in excess of 345 square metres.

Sunreef added that the designers drew inspiration for this single-masted sailing yacht from the 35 metre flagship yacht Che , which was launched in 2010. The Sunreef 88 is the sixth superyacht from the Polish yard, which has also created the Sunreef 102 yacht Ipharra .

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36 double-decker catamaran

Alexandra resort beach, up to 25 passengers, from $1,680.00, boat details, 32 double-decker catamaran, 'what is included'.

 All Your Gear (Fins, Mask, Vest), Beer, Rum Punch, Soft Drinks, Water, Grilled Fish, Gourmet Sandwiches (Half Day), Grilled Chicken (Full Day), Corn on the Cob (Full Day), Grilled Garlic Bread (Full Day), Peas & Rice (Full Day), Light Snacks

'Add-On Options'

Lobster (in season): $30/lb, Charcuterie: Small $70, Medium $120, Large $160, 

Tubing: $50 Fishing: $350 + 12 fishing license for guests 16+ years old, 

Veuve Clicquot Champagne: $150

'What To Bring'

Reef Safe Sunscreen, Towel, Your own reusable cup

Ice, Soda, Water : Please Check Description

Boat category : Pontoon, Catamaran

Meeting Point : The beach at The Alexandra Resort, just behind the front reception building.

Local Pick Up : Complimentary pick ups are available in the Grace Bay and Leeward areas only.

Food/Snacks : Please Check Description

Paddleboards : No

Specifications

Length : 32

Passenger Capacity : 25

Crew Capacity : 4

Sleep Capacity : 0

Year Built : 2015

Fuel Capacity : 350

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Dek Kat Boats Logo

DEK KAT 2680

Dek kat 2680 model.

Meet the new standard in nearshore and offshore coastal high-performance catamaran deck boats. With it’s revolutionary twin tunnel hull design, the Dek Kat 2680 is changing the game for inshore fishing by providing a large, stable fishing platform without sacrificing creature comfort options for the family.

BETTER FEATURES

With ample in deck storage, minimal bow rise on acceleration coupled with a shallow water draft of approximately 12”, the Dek Kat is fast becoming an in-shore guide favorite. At 26’ 2” inches long with a beam of 8’6” there is no other bay boat on the market that comes close to her deck space. The twin tunnels provide a stable and comfortable ride even when the weather is not fully cooperative.

If live bait fishing is your game, the 2680 comes standard with two large in deck live/release wells with the option for additional live wells above deck in the forward seating or in our custom leaning post configuration.

MORE COMFORT

The Dek Kat 2680 is a semi-custom built boat which is just as comfortable on the bay waters chasing trout and redfish as it is at the sand bar with your family. Our oversized hard tops keep the family comfortable with the shade and you will find an abundance of seating throughout the boat, including our custom Adirondack style seat built into the console. Built for fishing and comfort cruising, the Dek Kat is truly one of the most versatile bay boat designs out there. It is ready for whatever your weekend desires are upon the water.

BUILD YOUR DEK KAT

352-541-2800.

Email [email protected] Sales 352-222-7202

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Deck Boat Catamaran Boats for sale

1-15 of 360

2005 Glacier Bay 2680 Coastal Runner

2005 Glacier Bay 2680 Coastal Runner

Palmetto, Florida

Make Glacier Bay

Model 2680 Coastal Runner

Category Power Catamaran Boats

Posted 2 Weeks Ago

This Glacier Bay is in good condition for her age. The seller just had the boat detailed and has a nice hull shine. The hull sides have a nice shine and are free from any major defects. The interior is clean and the electronics have been updated. The cabin is clean and ready for a new owner! Stock #388699 Power Catamaran! Offshore Ready! Just Detailed! Engines Run Great!! 2005 Glacier Bay 2680 Coastal Runner This is a nice power catamaran design with quality construction by Glacier Bay. This Coastal Runner features an interior cabin with room for two to sleep very comfortably and a plumbed head. The dual hull design with its wide beam, and high gunwales creates the perfect combination for a dry, stable ride, even in rough sea days. The cockpit features a wrap-around windshield and side windows with a hardtop overhead with two opening ports. The rear deck area has coaming pads for comfort, a huge live well and access to the integrated swim platform. There are plenty of rod holders and two fish boxes are in the floor. This design allows you to walk around the sides to the bow with handrails. The electronics were recently updated. There is a Garmin GPSMAPS 8612 xsv series 12" touchscreen IPS multifunction display chartplotter-sonar combo with BlueChart G3 and Lakeview G3. A Garmin GT56UHD-TM Traditional CHIRP High wide / UHD Clear-side transducer. A Garmin GMR Fantom 24x White 50 watt Solid State Radar, 60 RPM, 8 Bit Color, Dual Range, Overlay Support, and a Garmin Reactor 40 Hydraulic Corepack with SmartPump with GHC 50 Autopilot that has not been installed yet. Check out all the photos and call today to make it yours! Reason for selling is buying another boat.

Catamaran

Santa Barbara, California

Posted Over 1 Month

Trailerable 34' catamaran. Demountable. Sets up in 1.75 hours. 34 LOA beam 20 mast 45' from water. This is a very fast cat with no light air problems at all. Brand new sails, sleeping in the hulls. Wave piercing bows. great galvanized trailer. Packs down to 8' wide for the road or shipping container. serious buyers only please. Asking 49k O.B.O. Here is the inventory list. This is quite possibly one of the finest custom Stilettos on earth. . Deluxe trailer. Quick set up. Racer / cruiser. Custom sleeping births in each hull. Professionally reconditioned to "like new" condition in 2005. structural glassed in bed frames with extra floatation, upsized sea hatches, Lewmar winches. 20' beam and transforms into 8' wide for trailering or fit into a shipping container and ship over seas. Set up to single hand. Room for plenty of friends or the whole family. She is wicked fast, handles like a dream with a light helm that is quick and responsive. This cat was originaly a "Stiletto 27" we added a 3' stern extention kit and a wave piercing bow off the Oracle pattern making it a full 34 feet. Length overall 34' Length at water line 34' beam 20' mast hieght from water line 45' Inventory: 12 volt gel cell. 2 Colligo endless line furliers with endless fid lines. 15 hp Mercury motor. starts and runs perfect. VHF radio with stern mounted antenna. Sony Marine AM/FM CD. Marine grade electronic panel with futures 3 12 volt charge adapters New autohelm with custom bracket Rear net/tramp from the webbing material of the big cat "Double Bullets" Two Openable port lights interior forward bow Custom Pro built mast rotator stainless differential Colligo line organizers Four Halyard clutches mast mounted Beautiful new custom centerboard. Garmin GPS Hull mounted GPS antenna. "SPOT" rescue system New gas tank. Galvanized trailer. twin axle New hevey duty hitch Custom built in sink and cabinets with fresh water tank New deluxe Porta Potti Two deck mounted anchor lockers Custom white marine grade cushions in almost new condition. 2 sets of oars new 6 new life jackets in the case. Main sail is full roach glass battens only used a couple times. w/ lazy jacks. Screecher used once. Brand new jib in the bag Second jib. Mylar very used but a lot of sailing left in it. Galvanized trailer with set of removable magnetic lighting. Custom aluminum motor mount Brand new all synthetic rigging . S.E. model with side windows at the head of the births. (Lexan) New Lexan canopies Glass high performance rudders. Two Adjustable tiller handles with shovel grips Center dagger board was custom made ( glass ) high performance foil aprox. 6' tall and its beautiful. New fire extinguisher, tool kit, compass, shade cockpit cover, big anchor with 30 feet of chain and a lot of rode, lots of extra lines and frankly I can't remember all thats in my boat so just come see it. lots of misc. This Catamaran is ready to trailer and sail right now. A ton of money and careful attention has been poured into this boat, Many more extras and lots of photos to serious qualified buyers only please. Shipping can easily be arranged. 49,000 U.S. Dollars

1999 Catamaran Berkstresser Boats 60

1999 Catamaran Berkstresser Boats 60

Clearwater, Florida

Make Catamaran

Model Berkstresser Boats 60

1999 Catamaran Berkstresser Boats 60 A 60 foot world cruiser, live aboard and term charter sailing catamaran that is fast, long, light, comfortable, efficient and easy to sail (single hand). Low maintenance design provides a safe and unsinkable vessel. Many windows, ports and hatches provide a lite, open and airy interior. Lots of locker space provides storage for gear and toys (dive gear, windsurf, kite and surfboards). Large aft deck for allows ease of setup for tender operation and setting up water toys. Large swim platform and swim steps provides for easy water access. This world cruiser, live aboard or term charter sailing catamaran provide accommodations for 1 to 10 persons in 4 cabins with queen size beds, private heads and showers and two separate crew cabins with single beds and lots of storage. Excellent opportunity exist for new owners to add to an existing fleet or to startup a new business. A real money maker with prior weekly BVI bookings in the $16,000-$22,000 range depending on the dates. Out-of-State buyers can now buy and use their boat in beautiful Florida for 180 days with No Florida Sales Tax! Ask your EYS broker for details.

1987 Catamaran Hortsman 34'

1987 Catamaran Hortsman 34'

Miami, Florida

Model Hortsman 34'

1987 Catamaran Hortsman 34' 34 1987 CATAMARAN HORTSMAN ONLY 70 HOURS PRACTICALLY BRAND NEW 2014 30HP HONDA   UPGRADED ENGINE MOUNT   AUTO PILOT 2017 SIMRAD GO 7XE CHART PLOTTER WITH SIDEVIEW SONAR 2, 40 GALLON FRESH WATER TANKS SOLAR PANELS UHF RADIO BRAND NEW CUSTOM BENCH BRAND NEW TOPSIDE DECK PAINTED SEA ANCHOR PARACHUTE SYSTEM HEAVY DUTY FRONT ANCHOR AND REAR ANCHOR LED LIGHTING AND TONS OF OTHER ACCESSORIES THAT WILL GO WITH THE BOAT There a ton of extras. We just upgraded everything just about for some blue water traveling. You really need nothing else to do to her. She is turn key at this moment. Financing available if needed.

2016 Eternal Boats 28 Catamaran Deck Boat

2016 Eternal Boats 28 Catamaran Deck Boat

Dunedin, Florida

Make Eternal Boats

Model 28 Catamaran Deck Boat

Category Deck Boats

2016 Eternal Boats 28 Catamaran Deck Boat Be sure to check out the above video highlighting key features of the boat! America's First True High Performance Catamaran Hull with Deck boat platform. Ladder with shower in front, Eternal door in front, Deck boat seating with plenty of storage underneath.  2 designated cooler areas. Standup porcelain head with electric flush, carbon fiber vanity with sink and shower. Under helm, double helm seat with flip up holster. Touch screen Garmin GPS with 2 digital gauges. All doors are backlit in blue.  Under water blue courtesy lights. Back off the boat enhanced with play pen area which electrically raises to reveal additional storage.  2 ladders in the back with shower 1 ladder in front.

2016 Eternal Boats 28 Catamaran Deck Boat

Category Powerboats

2016 Eternal Boats 28 Catamaran Deck Boat America's First True High Performance Catamaran Hull with Deck boat platform. Ladder with shower in front, Eternal door in front, Deck boat seating with plenty of storage underneath.  2 designated cooler areas. Standup porcelain head with electric flush, carbon fiber vanity with sink and shower. Under helm, double helm seat with flip up holster. Touch screen Garmin GPS with 2 digital gauges. All doors are backlit in blue.  Under water blue courtesy lights. Back off the boat enhanced with play pen area which electrically raises to reveal additional storage.  2 ladders in the back with shower 1 ladder in front.

2012 Catamaran Cruisers Custom House Boat

2012 Catamaran Cruisers Custom House Boat

Flower Mound, Texas

Make Catamaran Cruisers

Model Custom House Boat

Category Cruiser Boats

2012 Catamaran Cruisers Custom House Boat GREAT LIVE-A-BOARD!FRESHWATER USE ONLY!YAMAHA 115 FOUR STROKE! ONLY 48 HOURS!AIR CONDITIONING!GENERATOR!This VERY clean 39' x 12' custom houseboat is powered by a fuel efficient Yamaha 115hp four stroke outboard motor with only 48 hours.  Wonderful light and bright layout with private stateroom, full galley and large head.  Other features include large front and aft covered decks, docking lights, 30 amp shore power, rear & upper deck camera with monitor, depth finder, factory installed generator, roof top air conditioning, 2 flat panel TV's, High Powered Kenwood sound system with multiple speakers including six JL Audio bullet speakers outside and 3 amps, large dinette, sofa sleeper, hot water, stove, M/W, full size frost free refrigerator, private master stateroom with privacy door, large head with marine toilet and huge stall shower, lots of storage space, huge upper deck with custom made aluminum party top canopy and shade screens, fans, large flat screen TV and more.  This would make a great live-a-board or weekend cruiser.  NO TRAILER!  All photos and videos shot October 1, 2016.Located on Lake Lewisville and turn-key ready for use!

1987 Horstman Catamaran

1987 Horstman Catamaran

Palm Beach Gardens, Florida

Make Horstman

Model Catamaran

Category Catamarans

1987 Horstman Catamaran Selling my beautiful sailing Catamaran. She is a 34 ft Hortsman. Built solid from wood and fiberglass. She will not sink. Great for a live aboard or just checking out beautiful places. There a ton of extras. We just upgraded everything just about for some blue water traveling. You really need nothing else to do to her. She is turn key at this moment. Comes with:3 SailsPractically brand new 2014 30hp HondaUpgraded engine mountAuto pilot2017 Simrad Go 7xe Chart plotter with sideview sonar 2016 Generator 2, 40 gallon fresh water tanks Solar panelsUHF radioBrand new custom benchBrand new topside deck paintedSea anchor parachute systemHeavy duty front anchor and rear anchorLED LightingAnd tons of other accessories that will go with the boatCall me at 904-Seven-Zero-Three-8273

2002 Custom Catamaran

2002 Custom Catamaran

Raceland, Louisiana

Make Custom

Category Houseboats

2002 Custom Catamaran, Comfort on the water doesn't get much better!!!Introducing this 2002 Custom 52ft Catamaran Houseboat "On Vacation" manufactured by Louisiana Houseboats Inc. This 2 bedroom, 2 bath floating home has all the convenience of a fully furnished condominium with the capabilities to change your residency with the crank of an engine. The fully fiberglass hull is powered by twin 250 Yamaha outboards keeping engine maintenance low. The interior was newly refurbished for 2016 with new carpet throughout the boat as well as a new stack Whirlpool washer and dryer in the master. The 2nd story sundeck with fiberglass top features sofa style seating across the bow, with the entire deck being open to the stern maximizing the total area above. Why settle for a vacation home in one location when you can travel the coast without leaving the comfort of your living room sofa?Highlighted Features Include:-2 Bedrooms 2 Bath-New Carpet throughout the boat-New Stack Whirlpool Washer and Dryer-Fully Furnished Living room and Kitchen-Electric Cooktop stove, Oven & Microwave-Full size Refrigerator-Twin Yamaha 250 outboards (2006 model year)-600 gallon Fuel Capacity-600 gallon Fresh Water tank-Onboard Sewage treatment plant-23kw Isuzu Generator-2 50 amp shore power outlets (boats runs on 1)- Fresh water line hookup-Bose Sound system (top deck)**Boat is located in Louisiana on open waterways, No landlock transportation cost** $170000.00

Leisure Cat 26 Catamaran Deck Boat with Trailer

Leisure Cat 26 Catamaran Deck Boat with Trailer

Naples, Florida

Model Leisure Cat 26

Length 26.0

Leisure Cat 26 Catamaran Deck Boat with Trailer. Anchor & line, large bimini top, aft swim ladder, full cover, seat cushions, fresh water shower, and full lighted gauges. Power: 1998 225 HP Mercury outboard motor - serviced this year and runs perfectly. 2 new batteries and internal battery charger. 80 gallon fuel tank. Max capacity of 12 passengers. 2013 Bear Tritoon Trailer. Holds 24 to 26 foot Tritoon. Model PB 13-26TTL. 2 axles with drum brakes, adjustable rails, and in great condition.

1998 New Orleans Catamaran House Boat

1998 New Orleans Catamaran House Boat

Wilmington, North Carolina

Make New Orleans

Model Catamaran House Boat

Category Power Catamarans

1998 New Orleans Catamaran House Boat Huge cruising home with trawler economy.  With her 2002 straight inboard, prop protected 310hp cummins diesels.  This three stateroom two head floating home has it all, from her upper and lower steering stations to her forward and aft decks and her massive upper deck for entertaining!!!  Also available is the waterfront non-buildable lot w/90'x60' T-dock for $150K.  Owner will give the buyer of the boat 6 months free dockage or will finance the sell of the land and dock.

1991 Sea taxi Custom Catamaran Dive Boat

1991 Sea taxi Custom Catamaran Dive Boat

Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Make Sea Taxi

Model Custom Catamaran Dive Boat

1991 Sea taxi Custom Catamaran Dive Boat The Makai is 46 ft long 16ft wide 2-deck power catamaran. It is USCG inspected for 84 passengers. It has been used for sight seeing tours, snorkeling and scuba tours, sunset cruises, whale watching, private events and tendering for cruises ships, private yachts and the military.The vessel has 2 restrooms, fresh water shower, concessions bar, dive/swim ladder and upper deck lounge with cushioned seating. It just completed its bi-annual dry dock an annual inspection. Its hulls are solid fiberglass with glass over wood wing. Registered Dimensions: 46' x 16.4' x 5.2' Tonnage: 11 Gross / 8 Net Type/Trade: Twin Diesel Catamaran / USCG Passenger-Inspected, Coastwise Built in 1991 Opa Locka, Florida and re-powered in 2005. ADDITIONAL PERMIT AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE: State of Hawaii commercial permit and mooring permit. This permit allows commercial operation from the Kailua Kona Hawaii pier in the heart of Kona. This pier is Kona’s cruise ship port which sees weekly cruise ship visitations. These permits are limited by the State of Hawaii.

2012 Catamaran Coaches Trimaran

2012 Catamaran Coaches Trimaran

Make Catamaran Coaches

Model Trimaran

2012 Catamaran Coaches Trimaran PRICE REDUCTION! Want the most awesome deck boat ? Or are you thinking about launching a wildlife-watching, sea-touring, flats-fishing, kayaking, paddle-boarding or water yoga and shelling excursion business? THIS IS THE BOAT FOR YOU Custom composite and aluminum-railed 26-foot trimaran draws only 18 inches Two battery banks and an inverter power it all Great sound system Dance on the top deck or store kayaks and paddle boards there Lowrance chart plotter, VHF, live wells, wash down pump & filet table Ready for family fun or create your own business. Custom seating and a private head for your comfort Recent bottom paint No slip fees because a heavy-duty tri-axle aluminum trailer is included.  Powered by a low-time (600 hours) Yamaha F350, this Florida-manufactured custom trimaran is strong, fast and reliable. Arrange a showing today.

2012 Catamaran Coaches Trimaran

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catamaran boat double decker

Catamaran Sightseeing Cruise: Sea, Salt & Klein Bonaire

Kralendijk, Bonaire

Activity Level

Excursion Type

Local Sightseeing,25,All

Wheelchair Accessible

Starting At

Minimum Age

Information Not Currently Available

Approximately 2 Hours

Meals Included

Meals not included

Savor Bonaire's breathtaking seascapes from the Sea Breeze double-decker power catamaran .

You'll stop at the famous pink salt flats and white mountains of salt. Your guide will explain the salt production process.

Offshore from the historical white slave huts, learn some Caribbean facts and discover why these centuries-old huts are built next to the sea.

The catamaran approaches the uninhabited island of Klein Bonaire by way of the famous Bonaire Marine Park . Its protected reef makes it a divers' paradise. From up close, you will see Bonaire's most attractive white-sand beach. Its name, of course, is No-Name Beach.

Follow the coastline for exceptional panoramic views, and don't forget to look down into the crystal-clear turquoise water. Oceanfront hotels and restaurants and beautiful Dutch Caribbean mansions line the way back to the port.

Maximum age is 70 years. Maximum height is 6'6". Maximum weight is 330 lbs. Guests who are more than five months pregnant or have a heart condition, asthma, or leg or chest injuries and/or recent surgery are not allowed to participate. Not advisable for guests with mobility limitations.

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Deck Builders & Contractors in Elektrostal'

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  • Elektrostal', Moscow Oblast, Russia

Featured Reviews for Deck Builders & Contractors in Elektrostal'

  • Reach out to the pro(s) you want, then share your vision to get the ball rolling.
  • Request and compare quotes, then hire the Decks, Patio & Outdoor Enclosures professional that perfectly fits your project and budget limits.
  • Deck Building
  • Deck Lighting Installation
  • Deck Refinishing
  • Deck Staining
  • Deck Waterproofing
  • Gazebo Design & Construction

Some of the best decking materials include:

  • Wood: Cedar, redwood, and tropical hardwoods offer a classic look but require regular maintenance.
  • Pressure-Treated Lumber: Affordable pine that resists rot and insects but may need staining.
  • Composite Decking: Low-maintenance blend of wood fibers and recycled plastic, available in various colors.
  • PVC Decking: Synthetic option resistant to stains, scratches, and fading, but can be pricey.
  • Aluminum Decking: Lightweight, durable, rust-resistant, suitable for water areas, but more expensive.
  • Vinyl Decking: Low-maintenance, moisture, and rot-resistant, but quality varies.

It’s better to build a patio when:

  • Privacy is a priority: Patio provides a sense of privacy, especially when enclosed.
  • Budget and low maintenance are the priority: Patios are generally more cost-effective to build and require less maintenance.
  • The ground is flat: For even ground, constructing a patio is easier and more straightforward.

It’s better to build a deck when:

  • Scenic views are desired: Decks offer better views.
  • You are fine with obtaining building permits and inspections: Decks typically require permits and inspections due to their structural impact on the home.
  • The ground is uneven: If your backyard has slopes or uneven terrain, a deck can provide a stable and level outdoor space.

What services do deck and patio companies in Elektrostal', Moscow Oblast, Russia provide?

Questions to ask a prospective elektrostal', moscow oblast, russia deck installers and patio builder:, business services, connect with us.

Things to Do in Elektrostal, Russia - Elektrostal Attractions

Things to do in elektrostal.

  • 5.0 of 5 bubbles
  • 4.0 of 5 bubbles & up
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  • Things to do ranked using Tripadvisor data including reviews, ratings, photos, and popularity.

catamaran boat double decker

1. Electrostal History and Art Museum

catamaran boat double decker

2. Statue of Lenin

catamaran boat double decker

3. Park of Culture and Leisure

4. museum and exhibition center.

catamaran boat double decker

5. Museum of Labor Glory

catamaran boat double decker

7. Galereya Kino

8. viki cinema, 9. smokygrove.

catamaran boat double decker

10. Gandikap

11. papa lounge bar, 12. karaoke bar.

  • Statue of Lenin
  • Electrostal History and Art Museum
  • Park of Culture and Leisure
  • Museum and Exhibition Center
  • Museum of Labor Glory

catamaran boat double decker

test. The Sunreef 88 DD hasn't forgotten any of the rules of super-yachting. Attention to detail and refinement is everywhere on board, making life enjoyable. The cockpit interior offers a good view forward across the water. From here, you can handle the boat while staying warm during night watches.

At the water, the Portless Catamaran inflates into an impressive 14.8-foot (4.5-m) cat with upper and lower decks designed to accommodate a total of six people. It's meant to go from car trunk to ...

The start of the ambitious Sunreef 88 Double Deck project was officially communicated during Sunreef Yachts' press conference at the Cannes Yachting Festival 2016. After eight months of intensive work, the shipyard proudly announced the launch of this catamaran with a zealous, sporty look. An experienced yachtsman switching from a massive ...

The Sunreef 92 Double Deck features almost 430 square meters of living space, twice as much as the Sunreef 82 Double Deck introduced in 2012. The enlarged deckhouse gives the owners greater comfort and the possibility to invite even more guests on a luxury cruise. The yacht will comfortably accommodate up to 12 guests giving each of them the ...

The double decker is capable of carrying 200 passengers out of the US,and 149 in US waters. The price is the base price without power and can be customized to fit your needs. This boat is fast and economical. Ron Cooper has built over 165 passenger catamarans, from 39' to 107'.

Using integrated stepped hull chins, the Sunreef 92 Double Deck catamaran increases interior space, without compromising performance. Now this yacht can accommodate up to 10 guests, in up to 5 double luxury suites, as well as a crew of four. ... Draft maximum (dagger boat): 1.60 m/5.2 ft

Check out the website for more information on Island Routes' catamaran cruises and other excursions they offer in Jamaica and elsewhere in the Caribbean. They'll help you to book your perfect adventure today! You can also chat online or call. US Toll-Free: 1.877.768.8370. Toll-Free Caribbean: 1.800.744.1150.

The first hull in the Sunreef 88 range of double deck sailing catamarans has been launched in Gdansk for a European owner, the Polish yard has announced. This fully personalised multihull superyacht measures 26.82 metres LOA and was styled inside and out by the in-house team at Sunreef Yachts.

To sum it up, embarking on a double-decker catamaran tour to discover Isla Mujeres is an incredible adventure that combines natural beauty, snorkeling, and island exploration. With the convenience of making a reservation and paying later, along with free cancellation up to 24 hours in advance, this tour offers flexibility for travelers.

32 Double-Decker Catamaran36 ft double deck power catamaran that can accommodate up to 30 guests comfortably. It features a built in bar, 2 loungers on the top deck, a diving board, a waterslide and bathroom. This is a great boat for a private charter.'What is Included' All Your Gear (Fins, Mask, Vest), Beer, ...

Spend the day soaking up the rays on the Caribbean Sea and Isla Mujeres when you book this great-value double-decker catamaran cruise with open bar. Stop to snorkel in the open sea, amid vibrant fish, coral and sculptures. Next, savor a delicious buffet lunch at an island beach club, with free time before you sail back to Cancun amid a spectacular sunset. Upgrade for transfers; all packages ...

Meet the new standard in nearshore and offshore coastal high-performance catamaran deck boats. With it's revolutionary twin tunnel hull design, the Dek Kat 2680 is changing the game for inshore fishing by providing a large, stable fishing platform without sacrificing creature comfort options for the family. Build Your Dek Kat.

Isla Mujeres Catamaran Tour with Snorkel, Open bar and Transportation from hotel. 1,088. Spring Break. from. $75.00. per adult (price varies by group size) Catamaran Tour to Isla Mujeres from Cancún with Bar and Lunch. 10.

Bays of Huatulco and Snorkeling on a Double Decker Catamaran cancellation policy: For a full refund, cancel at least 24 hours in advance of the start date of the experience. ... Surf was rough even for the large boat and 1 person got sea sick. Snorkelling was very good. The crew was great and we had a lot of fun. Read more. Written December 1 ...

Leisure Cat 26 Catamaran Deck Boat with Trailer. Anchor & line, large bimini top, aft swim ladder, full cover, seat cushions, fresh water shower, and full lighted gauges. Power: 1998 225 HP Mercury outboard motor - serviced this year and runs perfectly. 2 new batteries and internal battery charger. 80 gallon fuel tank.

Our Happy Fish II, is a Double Decker 34 feet Motor Catamaran with capacity for 30 guests that will give you a different experience of cruising along the Punta Cana and Cape Engaño crystal clear shallow waters. The Happy Fish II is a very accommodating boat, it has 1 bathroom, a Slide Toboggan, big shade area, upper deck and sound system.

Happy Fish II. Our Happy Fish II, is a Double Decker 34 feet Motor Catamaran with capacity for 30 guests that will give you a different experience of cruising along the Punta Cana and Cape Engaño crystal clear shallow waters. Only offered for Private Tours. The Happy Fish II is a very accommodating boat, it has 1 bathroom, a Slide Toboggan ...

Our Catamaran Party Boat Tour is a MUST when it comes to Punta Cana experiences. This booze cruise takes you along the Coast of Bavaro to the most popular Natural Pool in the Dominican Republic - and that's only the beginning! ... Private, All Inclusive, Double-Decker Catamaran in Punta Cana cancellation policy: For a full refund, cancel at ...

Approximately 2 Hours. Meals Included. Meals not included. Savor Bonaire's breathtaking seascapes from the Sea Breeze double-decker power catamaran. You'll stop at the famous pink salt flats and white mountains of salt. Your guide will explain the salt production process. Offshore from the historical white slave huts, learn some Caribbean facts ...

Search 1,121 Elektrostal' new & custom home builders to find the best custom home builder for your project. See the top reviewed local custom home builders in Elektrostal', Moscow Oblast, Russia on Houzz.

Find deck & patio builders near me on Houzz Before you hire a deck or patio builder in Elektrostal', Moscow Oblast, browse through our network of over 104 local deck & patio builders. Read through customer reviews, check out their past projects and then request a quote from the best deck & patio builders near you.

Strip Club 54 Sunset Boat Party Off Road Fury Barbados Camel Safari Las Vegas Three Tables Dive Site Ice Lagoon Adventure Boat Tours Elephant Jungle Sanctuary Samui Swift Creek Outfitters & Teton Horseback Adventures Odyssey Whale Watching Giorgos Pame Walking Tours

Find company research, competitor information, contact details & financial data for ELGLASS, OOO of Elektrostal, Moscow region. Get the latest business insights from Dun & Bradstreet.

  • Yachting World
  • Digital Edition

Yachting World cover

Mainsail handling: Advanced sailing techniques for catamarans and multihulls

Yachting World

  • September 30, 2020

Knowing how to set up a multihull’s mainsail is crucial. Brian Thompson, one of the world’s most experienced multihull sailors, shares his expert tips

mainsail-handling-multihull-catamaran-sailing-techniques-Dragonfly-40-running-shot-credit-Al-Wood

Dragonfly 40 on the wing. Credit: Al Wood

A mainsail cannot know whether it is hoisted on a monohull, a catamaran or a trimaran . The principles of sail trim are universal.

On all types of yacht the traveller, mainsheet, outhaul, halyard and the Cunningham can be used to control the sail, and the information from the telltales can be used to help judge how much power the sail is providing and whether it is well trimmed. But there are some important and some subtle differences between monohulls and multihulls.

Because the multihull is so much more stable at low heeling angles, the heel angle is harder to use as a reference for when the boat is overpowered. Rather like a car versus a motorbike; the car heels only a little when pressed, while on the motorbike it’s much more obvious when the limits are being approached.

mainsail-handling-multihull-catamaran-sailing-techniques-Excess-15-reefing-credit-Christophe-Launay

Modern cruising cats like the Excess 15 typically have tall masts positioned well aft. The fully battened square-top main is a powerhouse that should be set up well from first hoist. Photo: Christophe Launay

So on the multihull the decision of when to depower and to reef has to be influenced more by other inputs rather than just heel angle.

Generally speaking, a multihull’s wide beam allows for a much longer traveller than on an equivalent monohull, so there is much better control of the boom position when reaching and downwind sailing . This can make a boom vang/kicking strap unnecessary.

A multihull does not roll downwind like traditional monohulls, so the risk of an accidental gybe is much reduced, though not eliminated. Additionally the boom is less of a danger to the crew as it is often high and above a long cabin top – though that can then mean that visibility to the mainsail is more restricted, and you may have to move to find the best spot to look at the mainsail trim.

Article continues below…

in-boom-furling-sailing-technology-Kraken-66-Southern-Spars-system

Is in-boom furling the next big thing in sail handling technology?

Even though this remains an expensive option, in-boom furling is one that a growing number of boat owners are adopting.…

2019-arc-survey-sail-handling-Oyster-565-aerial-view-credit-Brian-Carlin

ARC 2019 skippers’ survey results reveal the art of easy transatlantic sailing

Tradewind sailing is hard to beat. Every yacht is different, however, and each skipper likes to sail their boat their…

With the shrouds further outboard and often further aft than on a monohull, a multihull’s mast is well supported and permanent backstays and runners are not required. This allows for a bigger roach on the mainsail and a more powerful sail for the same mast height. The big roach on the main then necessitates full-length battens with cars on the mast, rather than short battens.

Inflexible mast

The high righting moment of the multihull combined with a lack of backstay or runners, means that the mast has to be strong and stiff and is not adjustable in bend under way, whether it is a fixed or wing mast. So it won’t be possible to flatten the mainsail with mast bend, as you might do in a monohull with a backstay.

And because of that wide shroud base, and consequent reduced mast compression, some performance multihulls can have rotating wing masts, to reduce the aero drag of the mast and clean up the airflow to the mainsail. This does not really change the mainsail trim but it is a slight performance gain.

mainsail-handling-multihull-catamaran-sailing-techniques-Excess-15-mast-credit-Christophe-Launay

Learning when to reef, using twist to your advantage and optimising your mainsheet trim settings are key skills. Photo: Christophe Launay

But with the shrouds further aft and with full battens in the mainsail, it can be more of a challenge to reef downwind, as the battens and sail will chafe against the shrouds more.

Knowing when to reef

The fundamental control on the power of the mainsail is what size sail you have decided to set. As the wind increases it is very important to reef at the appropriate wind speed and not wait too long, otherwise the boat becomes overloaded.

For instance, when racing on a MOD 70 trimaran, we’d usually go to first reef at 20 knots true wind speed, upwind and downwind. Of course, you could temporarily carry full main to 25 knots, if you are careful on the helm and with sail trim, but the boat will be slower as the sails will be eased and creating more drag. It is also far more dangerous to overload a 7-tonne trimaran that can capsize.

However, on delivery with the same boat, the reefing wind speed would be 17 knots True, as we reef as early as we can without losing significant speed.

As a guide to boat speed on delivery, upwind we are happy to be doing 16 knots and downwind 25 knots, and we want to achieve those speeds with the minimum of sail. When racing of course we try to go faster with a 20 knots target speed upwind and 30 knots downwind!

As the boat is very powerful, we would go to second reef at 26 knots and third reef at about 33 knots on the MOD70, less on delivery of course.

mainsail-handling-multihull-catamaran-sailing-techniques-lagoon-52-credit-Nicolas-Claris

The tall mast and high aspect square-top main on the Lagoon 52. Photo: Nicolas Claris

When cruising or on delivery, I always like to learn the minimum wind speed that I can reef while maintaining a similar boat speed. That way there is less stress to the boat, rigging and crew. The centre of effort of the sails also goes down, so heel and pitching reduce. Downwind, the bow down trim will reduce and the boat will be safer and lighter on the helm.

If the wind is expected to increase, I’d confidently change down at these minimum wind speeds, but if the wind is oscillating up and down in strength I would make sure the wind was really holding above that minimum wind speed before reefing.

And if unsure of what is going to happen with the wind – when sailing into squalls , into nighttime, or into gusty offshore winds near high land and headlands – then I would always aim to err on the side of caution. When cruising, being set up for the higher wind speeds than expected, is an old axiom.

The MOD is a super high performance trimaran of course, but to find out what the limits should be on a popular cruising cat I spoke to Graham Laver at Ancasta , who sent me the sailing guide for the Lagoon 52.

Interestingly, it’s not that different. With the standard pinhead mainsail, the first reef is recommended to go in at 21 knots both upwind and downwind, and in less wind with the optional square-top main, or in a bad sea-state. The second reef is recommended at 33 knots and the third is at 40 knots. These are higher winds than the MOD70, but then it’s a less powerful, heavier boat with a shorter rig.

Here we are talking all the time about wind speed in True, which requires a reasonably accurate instrument system. This is now common on most boats, but it’s very worthwhile to put in a little time to calibrate this as well as possible.

mainsail-handling-multihull-catamaran-sailing-techniques-Excess-15-coachroof-credit-Christophe-Launay

Coachroofs and hard biminis make it easy to check and adjust lazyjacks, control lines and battens. Photo: Christophe Launay

Not all about numbers

And this opens up the whole subject of instrument calibration . In essence the wind cups will, out of the factory, read the correct upwind and reaching apparent wind speed, but to get accurate true wind speed, the calibration of wind vane angle to the centreline, the boat speed and the compass are all very important so that the wind speed reads the same, tack to tack.

Downwind, the windspeed will often overread due to the upwash of wind from the square-top mainsail at full hoist, or a spinnaker, so be aware this may add about 2 knots to the windspeed. This can be calibrated out with advanced instrument systems

Even if the instruments are really well calibrated I like to always imagine how I would sail if they suddenly stopped working. So what are the other clues to use to estimate the wind speed?

Very important is the look of the wind on the water, the amount of white caps, as in the classic Beaufort scale, and also the feel of the boat: the speed through the water, the subtle heel angle changes, the amount of helm that is needed, and the balance of the boat.

For instance, how much you have to depower the boat to achieve a certain boat speed is a good guide. If I have eased quite a lot of mainsheet and traveller and the boat speed is as desired, and the front 20% of the main is luffing, then its probably past time to reef, even without looking at the true wind speed numbers.

In 2001, I sailed in the Mini Transat Race. At that time those boats had no wind instruments and it soon became second nature to know wind speed and direction, day or night. It’s a good exercise to always check your estimate of the wind speed against the instruments.

mainsail-handling-multihull-catamaran-sailing-techniques-Excess-15-running-shot-credit-Christophe-Launay

Photo: Christophe Launay

Of course you want your instrument and power system to be super reliable and well calibrated, so you don’t lose wind data on a dark night, but also you want to blend that information with your own judgement of the situation and have confidence in that judgement/intuition. The wind number is not an absolute guide to the forces on the boat anyway.

For instance, the same 20 knots wind speed is less powerful in the warm tropics than in the cold Southern Ocean. And on a foggy day with cold water and warm damp air, the wind is less powerful as there will be a lot of wind shear and the wind at the deck level is much less than the wind at the masthead.

So on a day when the wind is better mixed, the same 20 knots at the masthead is more powerful than that foggy day with laminar flow wind.

To summarise the discussion on reefing limits: it’s not just about the digital TWS number, but also what is right for the conditions you feel, the feedback from the behaviour of the boat, your predictions about what is going to happen in the future, the goal of the sailing and the abilities of the crew.

Reefing tips

Reefing is easy to do upwind or reaching, and I often slow right down to reef, and then get going again when the reef is finished. This keeps the apparent wind speed down, and makes for a safer platform for the crew. Downwind it can be trickier, with the friction of the sail and full length battens on the shrouds. If it’s not possible to head up, then winching the luff down at the same time as the leech should get the sail down slowly.

On very fast boats such as MOD70s you can keep going fast enough downwind to keep the apparent wind angle at 50° just with the gennaker, and then the mainsail can flap without hitting the shrouds when the traveller and mainsheet are eased. Then, once you are reefed, you can get back to your 37° to 40° of apparent wind angle and 30 knots of boat speed!

mainsail-handling-multihull-catamaran-sailing-techniques-Dragonfly-40-bridle-credit-Al-Wood

Some multihulls use a bridle set-up for the mainsheet instead of a traveller, as seen here on the new Dragonfly 40. Photo: Al Wood

Mainsail trim

So now we have the right size mainsail for the situation, how are we best going to trim that sail?

The big controls are the mainsheet and the traveller, and the minor controls are the outhaul, halyard and Cunningham (and on some boats some of these last three are not adjustable).

So let’s talk first about upwind and reaching in moderate, flat water conditions, when the mainsail is trimmed the tightest – let’s say in 12 knots of wind.

For the mainsheet, you can keep trimming until the top telltale is folded to leeward of the leech about 20% of the time, and the other 80% of the time it, and all the other leech telltales, are flying. That is max main trim, giving the straightest leech and minimum twist. I like to think of this as 1 out of 10, or ‘minimum twist’. I like to look up the back of the leech sometimes to assess the amount of twist.

In fact, if you can then mark the mainsheet at this position along a scale on the boom, you could have marks from 1 to 10, with 1 being the most trimmed in you can go, and with 10 being the most eased. This is ‘maximum twist’, perhaps used when you are reefing.

I really like to have marks on the mainsheet (and everywhere else it might apply), as it’s easy to then repeat your settings, and also to pass on information to the rest of the crew in a concise form. In these upwind conditions, position the traveller so the clew of the mainsail is on the centreline.

mainsail-handling-multihull-catamaran-sailing-techniques-Dragonfly-40-leech-credit-Al-Wood

Note the red leech telltales on the batten ends, seen in almost full upwind mode here with the Code 0. Photo: Al Wood

As it gets windier, the first thing I would do is ease just a little mainsheet, to mark 2 or 3 on your scale so that the top of the main opens a little to reduce the power up top, and to reduce all of the loads. All the leech telltales will be flying now.

After that start easing the traveller down a little to depower further. Then, when you have 20% of the front of the sail luffing, its certainly time to reef, which will provide the same power, with less drag, so will be faster and safer.

In lighter winds you’d again have slightly less leech tension, perhaps also at twist mark 2 or 3, and the traveller slightly higher up the track so the clew still stays on the centreline. In light conditions you might use a little lazyjack or topping lift to stop the weight of the boom closing the leech. But by then most people will be motorsailing !

Use those leech telltales again when sailing downwind and reaching to set the correct twist through the mainsheet, and use the traveller to set the correct angle of the whole sail to the wind.

In waves you need to have more twist than in flat water as the apparent wind angle changes much more with all the heeling, pitching, and course changes, so you need a more tolerant setting.

Tweaking minor controls

The use of the minor sail controls can depend on the boat set up. Most boats will have an outhaul, to control the foot of the mainsail, and this will be tighter for strong winds and eased a little in the moderate, downwind and light conditions.

You can use either the halyard or Cunningham to control the luff of the sail. The goal is to barely eliminate the wrinkles in the luff and the sag between the batten and intermediate cars, but no more than that. Downwind you can ease the luff tension but still get rid of the wrinkles. On a bigger multihull with full battens, you can’t significantly move the draft forward of the sail with more luff tension or bend the mast like you can in a smaller cat.

The lazyjacks or topping lift should be left loose enough not to interfere with the mainsail but tight enough to hold the boom up if you forget to tighten them up before reefing or dropping the main.

Setting up your mainsail

When you first put on a fully battened mainsail on a multihull, the first thing you’ll notice is that it’s heavier than on an equivalent length monohull: the area is higher with the big roach, the full-length battens heavier, plus the weight of the mast track cars that go with the battens. The sail is typically made in a tougher cloth because the righting moment of the boat is greater than a monohull. So once you have that heavier sail into the lazyjacks, here are some tips for setting it up properly.

  • Head: Set the correct distance between the head ring and the mast. If it’s adjustable you’ll find that bringing the head ring closer to the mast will put more fullness in the top of the main and make the leech tighter.
  • Battens: Check the batten tension: ideally you want to be just getting rid of any vertical creases around the batten pockets. Too tight and the sail will be overly stressed and you can see the batten making the sail locally deeper.
  • Depth: The mast is not tuneable in bend without a backstay, but one trick with full batten mains is to tune the thread that attaches the batten car to its mainsail track car. If you have more thread showing then the mainsail will get locally deeper as it is the equivalent of straightening the mast.
  • Foot: Make sure the tack is lashed with the appropriate distance to the mast track so that it follows the luff of the sail. Ensure the clew is lashed down close to the boom and the outboard reef lines are run in the correct position.
  • Reef lines: Due to the righting moment of the boat, the loads on the reef lines are higher than a monohull. Bigger multihulls will benefit from a hook arrangement for the reef so that it engages with a loop or a shackle on the leech of the main. This can help with chafe problems on lines and lessen compression on the boom.
  • Telltales and stripes: Cut strips of red spinnaker cloth to use as telltales on the leech end of each batten. Big is better. The top one is particularly critical to make sure the mainsail is not over-trimmed. One trick for night sailing is to sew a little retroreflective tape to the back end of the telltales so they show up well when a flashlight is shone on them. Draft stripes are useful on the mainsail to look at the shape at three different heights, and these can also have retroreflective alongside them for nighttime sailing.

About the author

Brian Thompson is one of the world’s foremost multihull sailors and has sailed more miles in multihulls than any other British sailor. Thompson, 58, has been sailing since he was three years old. He has competed in virtually every major offshore race, including the Mini Transat Race, the Vendée Globe , round the world records for the Jules Verne Trophy, the Route du Rhum and the Volvo Ocean Race .

Thompson has held most offshore records over the last three decades, including spending 11 years sailing with the American adventurer Steve Fossett. He has become the go-to helmsman for multihull sailing records and during his more recent time aboard the MOD70 Phaedo3 , helped set ten world records. Thompson is currently campaigning the MOD70 Argo and is one of the directors of Doyle Sails UK.

First published in the September 2020 issue of Yachting World.

reefing catamaran downwind

reefing catamaran downwind

Mainsail handling: Advanced sailing techniques for catamarans and multihulls

Knowing how to set up a multihull’s mainsail is crucial. Brian Thompson, one of the world’s most experienced multihull sailors, and one of the directors at Doyle Sails Solent, shares his expert tips.

A mainsail cannot know whether it is hoisted on a monohull, a catamaran or a trimaran. The principles of sail trim are universal.

On all types of yacht the traveller, mainsheet, outhaul, halyard and the Cunningham can be used to control the sail, and the information from the tell-tales can be used to help judge how much power the sail is providing and whether it is well trimmed.

But there are some important and some subtle differences between monohulls and multihulls.

Because the multihull is so much more stable at low heeling angles, the heel angle is harder to use as a reference for when the boat is overpowered. Rather like a car versus a motorbike; the car heels only a little when pressed, while on the motorbike it’s much more obvious when the limits are being approached.

So on the multihull the decision of when to depower and to reef has to be influenced more by other inputs rather than just heel angle.

Generally speaking, a multihull’s wide beam allows for a much longer traveller than on an equivalent monohull, so there is much better control of the boom position when reaching and downwind sailing. This can make a boom vang/kicking strap unnecessary.

A multihull does not roll downwind like traditional monohulls, so the risk of an accidental gybe is much reduced, though not eliminated. Additionally the boom is less of a danger to the crew as it is often high and above a long cabin top – though that can then mean that visibility to the mainsail is more restricted, and you may have to move to find the best spot to look at the mainsail trim.

With the shrouds further outboard and often further aft than on a monohull, a multihull’s mast is well supported and permanent backstays and runners are not required. This allows for a bigger roach on the mainsail and a more powerful sail for the same mast height. The big roach on the main then necessitates full-length battens with cars on the mast, rather than short battens.

Inflexible mast

The high righting moment of the multihull combined with a lack of backstay or runners, means that the mast has to be strong and stiff and is not adjustable in bend under way, whether it is a fixed or wing mast. So it won’t be possible to flatten the mainsail with mast bend, as you might do in a monohull with a backstay.

And because of that wide shroud base, and consequent reduced mast compression, some performance multihulls can have rotating wing masts, to reduce the aero drag of the mast and clean up the airflow to the mainsail. This does not really change the mainsail trim but it is a slight performance gain.

But with the shrouds further aft and with full battens in the mainsail, it can be more of a challenge to reef downwind, as the battens and sail will chafe against the shrouds more.

reefing catamaran downwind

Knowing when to reef

The fundamental control on the power of the mainsail is what size sail you have decided to set. As the wind increases it is very important to reef at the appropriate wind speed and not wait too long, otherwise the boat becomes overloaded.

For instance, when racing on a MOD 70 trimaran, we’d usually go to first reef at 20 knots true wind speed, upwind and downwind. Of course, you could temporarily carry full main to 25 knots, if you are careful on the helm and with sail trim, but the boat will be slower as the sails will be eased and creating more drag. It is also far more dangerous to overload a 7-tonne trimaran that can capsize.

However, on delivery with the same boat, the reefing wind speed would be 17 knots True, as we reef as early as we can without losing significant speed.

As a guide to boat speed on delivery, upwind we are happy to be doing 16 knots and downwind 25 knots, and we want to achieve those speeds with the minimum of sail. When racing of course we try to go faster with a 20 knots target speed upwind and 30 knots downwind!

As the boat is very powerful, we would go to second reef at 26 knots and third reef at about 33 knots on the MOD70, less on delivery of course.

When cruising or on delivery, I always like to learn the minimum wind speed that I can reef while maintaining a similar boat speed. That way there is less stress to the boat, rigging and crew. The centre of effort of the sails also goes down, so heel and pitching reduce. Downwind, the bow down trim will reduce and the boat will be safer and lighter on the helm.

If the wind is expected to increase, I’d confidently change down at these minimum wind speeds, but if the wind is oscillating up and down in strength I would make sure the wind was really holding above that minimum wind speed before reefing.

And if unsure of what is going to happen with the wind – when sailing into squalls, into night time, or into gusty offshore winds near high land and headlands – then I would always aim to err on the side of caution. When cruising, being set up for the higher wind speeds than expected, is an old axiom.

The MOD is a super high performance trimaran of course, but to find out what the limits should be on a popular cruising cat I spoke to Graham Laver at Ancasta, who sent me the sailing guide for the Lagoon 52.

Interestingly, it’s not that different. With the standard pinhead mainsail, the first reef is recommended to go in at 21 knots both upwind and downwind, and in less wind with the optional square-top main, or in a bad sea-state. The second reef is recommended at 33 knots and the third is at 40 knots. These are higher winds than the MOD70, but then it’s a less powerful, heavier boat with a shorter rig.

Here we are talking all the time about wind speed in True, which requires a reasonably accurate instrument system. This is now common on most boats, but it’s very worthwhile to put in a little time to calibrate this as well as possible.

reefing catamaran downwind

Not all about numbers

And this opens up the whole subject of instrument calibration. In essence the wind cups will, out of the factory, read the correct upwind and reaching apparent wind speed, but to get accurate true wind speed, the calibration of wind vane angle to the centreline, the boat speed and the compass are all very important so that the wind speed reads the same, tack to tack.

Downwind, the windspeed will often overread due to the upwash of wind from the square-top mainsail at full hoist, or a spinnaker, so be aware this may add about 2 knots to the windspeed. This can be calibrated out with advanced instrument systems

Even if the instruments are really well calibrated I like to always imagine how I would sail if they suddenly stopped working. So what are the other clues to use to estimate the wind speed?

Very important is the look of the wind on the water, the amount of white caps, as in the classic Beaufort scale, and also the feel of the boat: the speed through the water, the subtle heel angle changes, the amount of helm that is needed, and the balance of the boat.

For instance, how much you have to depower the boat to achieve a certain boat speed is a good guide. If I have eased quite a lot of mainsheet and traveller and the boat speed is as desired, and the front 20% of the main is luffing, then its probably past time to reef, even without looking at the true wind speed numbers.

In 2001, I sailed in the Mini Transat Race. At that time those boats had no wind instruments and it soon became second nature to know wind speed and direction, day or night. It’s a good exercise to always check your estimate of the wind speed against the instruments.

Of course you want your instrument and power system to be super reliable and well calibrated, so you don’t lose wind data on a dark night, but also you want to blend that information with your own judgement of the situation and have confidence in that judgement/intuition. The wind number is not an absolute guide to the forces on the boat anyway.

For instance, the same 20 knots wind speed is less powerful in the warm tropics than in the cold Southern Ocean. And on a foggy day with cold water and warm damp air, the wind is less powerful as there will be a lot of wind shear and the wind at the deck level is much less than the wind at the masthead.

So on a day when the wind is better mixed, the same 20 knots at the masthead is more powerful than that foggy day with laminar flow wind.

To summarise the discussion on reefing limits: it’s not just about the digital TWS number, but also what is right for the conditions you feel, the feedback from the behaviour of the boat, your predictions about what is going to happen in the future, the goal of the sailing and the abilities of the crew.

Reefing tips

Reefing is easy to do upwind or reaching, and I often slow right down to reef, and then get going again when the reef is finished. This keeps the apparent wind speed down, and makes for a safer platform for the crew. Downwind it can be trickier, with the friction of the sail and full length battens on the shrouds. If it’s not possible to head up, then winching the luff down at the same time as the leech should get the sail down slowly.

On very fast boats such as MOD70s you can keep going fast enough downwind to keep the apparent wind angle at 50° just with the gennaker, and then the mainsail can flap without hitting the shrouds when the traveller and mainsheet are eased. Then, once you are reefed, you can get back to your 37° to 40° of apparent wind angle and 30 knots of boat speed!

Mainsail trim

So now we have the right size mainsail for the situation, how are we best going to trim that sail?

The big controls are the mainsheet and the traveller, and the minor controls are the outhaul, halyard and Cunningham (and on some boats some of these last three are not adjustable).

So let’s talk first about upwind and reaching in moderate, flat water conditions, when the mainsail is trimmed the tightest – let’s say in 12 knots of wind.

For the mainsheet, you can keep trimming until the top telltale is folded to leeward of the leech about 20% of the time, and the other 80% of the time it, and all the other leech telltales, are flying. That is max main trim, giving the straightest leech and minimum twist. I like to think of this as 1 out of 10, or ‘minimum twist’. I like to look up the back of the leech sometimes to assess the amount of twist.

In fact, if you can then mark the mainsheet at this position along a scale on the boom, you could have marks from 1 to 10, with 1 being the most trimmed in you can go, and with 10 being the most eased. This is ‘maximum twist’, perhaps used when you are reefing.

I really like to have marks on the mainsheet (and everywhere else it might apply), as it’s easy to then repeat your settings, and also to pass on information to the rest of the crew in a concise form. In these upwind conditions, position the traveller so the clew of the mainsail is on the centreline.

As it gets windier, the first thing I would do is ease just a little mainsheet, to mark 2 or 3 on your scale so that the top of the main opens a little to reduce the power up top, and to reduce all of the loads. All the leech telltales will be flying now.

After that start easing the traveller down a little to depower further. Then, when you have 20% of the front of the sail luffing, its certainly time to reef, which will provide the same power, with less drag, so will be faster and safer.

In lighter winds you’d again have slightly less leech tension, perhaps also at twist mark 2 or 3, and the traveller slightly higher up the track so the clew still stays on the centreline. In light conditions you might use a little lazyjack or topping lift to stop the weight of the boom closing the leech. But by then most people will be motorsailing!

Use those leech telltales again when sailing downwind and reaching to set the correct twist through the mainsheet, and use the traveller to set the correct angle of the whole sail to the wind.

In waves you need to have more twist than in flat water as the apparent wind angle changes much more with all the heeling, pitching, and course changes, so you need a more tolerant setting.

reefing catamaran downwind

Tweaking minor controls

The use of the minor sail controls can depend on the boat set up. Most boats will have an outhaul, to control the foot of the mainsail, and this will be tighter for strong winds and eased a little in the moderate, downwind and light conditions.

You can use either the halyard or Cunningham to control the luff of the sail. The goal is to barely eliminate the wrinkles in the luff and the sag between the batten and intermediate cars, but no more than that. Downwind you can ease the luff tension but still get rid of the wrinkles. On a bigger multihull with full battens, you can’t significantly move the draft forward of the sail with more luff tension or bend the mast like you can in a smaller cat.

The lazyjacks or topping lift should be left loose enough not to interfere with the mainsail but tight enough to hold the boom up if you forget to tighten them up before reefing or dropping the main.

Setting up your mainsail

When you first put on a fully battened mainsail on a multihull, the first thing you’ll notice is that it’s heavier than on an equivalent length monohull: the area is higher with the big roach, the full-length battens heavier, plus the weight of the mast track cars that go with the battens. The sail is typically made in a tougher cloth because the righting moment of the boat is greater than a monohull. So once you have that heavier sail into the lazyjacks, here are some tips for setting it up properly.

  • Head:  Set the correct distance between the head ring and the mast. If it’s adjustable you’ll find that bringing the head ring closer to the mast will put more fullness in the top of the main and make the leech tighter.
  • Battens:  Check the batten tension: ideally you want to be just getting rid of any vertical creases around the batten pockets. Too tight and the sail will be overly stressed and you can see the batten making the sail locally deeper.
  • Depth:  The mast is not tuneable in bend without a backstay, but one trick with full batten mains is to tune the thread that attaches the batten car to its mainsail track car. If you have more thread showing then the mainsail will get locally deeper as it is the equivalent of straightening the mast.
  • Foot:  Make sure the tack is lashed with the appropriate distance to the mast track so that it follows the luff of the sail. Ensure the clew is lashed down close to the boom and the outboard reef lines are run in the correct position.
  • Reef lines:  Due to the righting moment of the boat, the loads on the reef lines are higher than a monohull. Bigger multihulls will benefit from a hook arrangement for the reef so that it engages with a loop or a shackle on the leech of the main. This can help with chafe problems on lines and lessen compression on the boom.
  • Telltales and stripes:  Cut strips of red spinnaker cloth to use as telltales on the leech end of each batten. Big is better. The top one is particularly critical to make sure the mainsail is not over-trimmed. One trick for night sailing is to sew a little retroreflective tape to the back end of the telltales so they show up well when a flashlight is shone on them.

Draft stripes are useful on the mainsail to look at the shape at three different heights, and these can also have retroreflective alongside them for nighttime sailing

reefing catamaran downwind

Brian Thompson – Director, Doyle Sails Solent

Brian Thompson is one of the world’s foremost multihull sailors and has sailed more miles in multihulls than any other British sailor.

Thompson, 58, has been sailing since he was three years old. He has competed in virtually every major offshore race, including the Mini Transat Race, the Vendée Globe, round the world records for the Jules Verne Trophy, the Route du Rhum and the Volvo Ocean Race.

Thompson has held most offshore records over the last three decades, including spending 11 years sailing with the American adventurer Steve Fossett. He has become the go-to helmsman for multihull sailing records and during his more recent time aboard the MOD70 Phaedo3, helped set ten world records. Thompson is currently campaigning the MOD70 Argo and is one of the directors of Doyle Sails UK.

For more information on Doyle Sails UK click  HERE

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reefing catamaran downwind

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Sail Universe

E-Motion Rudder Drive, an electric engine with… the Propeller installed into the Rudder

E-Motion Rudder Drive

Hanse Yachts introduces E-Motion Rudder Drive – an interesting propulsion type, with a special folding propeller….

An electric engine and a folding propeller have been installed into the rudder shaft, replacing the combination of diesel engine and sail drive. As a result, the propeller thrust is in line with the rudder position. This enables turning in the smallest circles or rotating around your own keel; it could be a perfect solution for maneuvering in narrow ports.

Making 4.5 knots with calm seas, the new Hanse 315 equipped with four lithium-ion batteries has a range of up to to 30 nautical miles – enough for all European inland waters and many coastal waters. At lower speeds, the range is significantly increased. The Rudder Drive can also be used with two batteries if a shorter range is required. The maximum speed is 6.1 knots – nearing the maximum speed of the diesel version.

The quiet Rudder Drive is also lightweight: 100 kg less than the diesel saildrive option. The Rudder Drive does not require a hole through the hull, lowering the resistance while sailing. The electric drive’s simplicity means less maintenance, as well.

E-Motion Rudder Drive: watch the video

hanse

From a standstill position, the yacht immediately starts to turn without having to pick up speed first. In addition, you enjoy all benefits of an electric engine. It will be the future?

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I think is a very good idea… I need to know if you sale this ingenio and to know the price and date of sending …Well as mucht as you can . Congratulations for that and awaiting for your news Carlos F Morante from Malaga Spain. For north wing 435

Dear Carlos, no we don’t sell it. We are a News Magazine. You have to contact Hanse Yachts (www.hanseyachts.com).

Best regards!

Nice, the space the engine takes is a lot. This would be great for smaller boats.

What provides the power? Diesel driving dc generator for the dc motor?

Yachting World

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Hanse 460 review: First in a new range

  • David Harding
  • January 26, 2023

The Hanse 460 is the first in a new range of Hanses. From new designers, she is already a big hit, with over 200 sold and a European Yacht of the Year win to its name. David Harding reports

hanse electric sailboat

Product Overview

Price as reviewed:.

For some of us, sailing has always been about the functional and fundamental. We enjoy sailing for sailing’s sake. But today people want so much more from a boat and, in many respects, today’s yachts undoubtedly offer a lot more and the Hanse 460 attempts to do just that.

What you might loosely call the mainstream European builders of family cruising yachts have been following this path for some time, making each generation of designs bigger and plusher than the last. For Hanse in particular, it has been a rapid evolution from the small, basic and functional to the large and luxurious.

This latest Hanse is the first to be designed by Berret-Racoupeau. After the earliest models, which used the moulds of discontinued, slim-hulled Scandinavian designs, every Hanse has been designed by Judel/Vrolijk in what became one of boatbuilding’s most enduring and successful partnerships.

In line with modern trends, each new wave of Hanses has been higher, wider and more voluminous than the last. Founder Michael Schmidt never lost sight of the performance side, however. For all their growing girths and towering topsides, Hanse has always made boats that sail – competitively-priced, high-volume cruisers but with easy handling (self-tacking jibs were used from the early days) and better performance than many of the alternatives.

hanse electric sailboat

The single rudder is light and responsive on the helm. Photo: HanseYachts/Nico Krauss

The Hanse 460 is different. Very different. The first model from a new alliance with the French designers, it promptly won the European Yacht of the Year as the best Family Cruiser for 2022. A Hanse 510 version now follows.

The big question was whether Hanse had managed to do something different while retaining the qualities that its owners had traditionally sought.

At a glance, the Hanse 460 looks sleeker and sportier than earlier models; more angular, with a reverse rake to the bow and a pronounced knuckle running to about half-way aft. In Hanse tradition there are no hard-angled chines but, in this case, a pronounced soft chine towards the stern. In plan view you see full forward sections which, combined with the broad stern, generous freeboard and ample beam, hold the promise of enormous interior volume.

hanse electric sailboat

The 460’s generous and uncluttered cockpit. Photo: HanseYachts/Nico Krauss

At the other end, a moulded bowsprit projects the anchor clear of the stem and provides an attachment point for an outer forestay which can carry a reaching headsail. Large windows in the topsides help to break up the high freeboard.

Scale those topsides and you’re faced with an expanse of wide, flat deck and coachroof. Moulded bulwarks edge the side decks to help keep feet where they belong should you venture forward when the boat’s heeled. Otherwise what stands out is the uncluttered appearance – lines are led aft beneath separate mouldings – and the plethora of deck hatches hinged every which way, including one that opens to reveal a large bow locker.

There was certainly nothing to complain about in the performance and handling department. We slipped along very nicely on a flat sea in 12-14 knots of wind, clocking around 7.5 knots with the apparent wind at just under 30°, and tacking through around 80° by the compass.

hanse electric sailboat

Moulded bowsprit keeps anchor clear of the stem and provides attachment for the optional outer forestay. Photo: Andreas Lindlahr/EYOTY

Enjoyable sailing

Weather helm was slight and the load on the wheels increased relatively little if I tried bearing away with the sheets pinned in, the single rudder providing plenty of grip. Provoked in the opposite direction, she coped well when pinched mercilessly and also when thrown into tight spins, only stalling briefly.

At least in the flat water and modest breeze we encountered, the cockpit worked well. In any wind and seaway you would be pleased to have the optional second table to port as a bracing point. At the helm stations you have a comfortable perch outboard of the wheel or, for energetic downwind sailing when you might need both hands, behind it. The Jefa linkage is light and direct, giving a good feel from the rudder. On the starboard side you can wind down the bifurcated backstay when extra headstay tension is needed.

hanse electric sailboat

Hanse 460 is from Berret-Racoupeau. Photo: Andreas Lindlahr/EYOTY

Today’s cockpits are no longer just places from where you control the boat. Controlling the boat in itself is so much easier anyway, especially if – as most owners of the Hanse 460 will – you upgrade to electric winches, electric in-mast reefing and electric furling for the genoa on the outer forestay.

Other push-button options are for the hinge-down bathing platform and the cockpit tables (either side or both), which can be lowered to create large lounging areas. Alternatively there are fixed tables, as we had on the port side. A wet-bar can be added between the helm seats. It’s all part of making the cockpit a multi-function space in which every part can serve a variety of purposes. Cockpit stowage is in the form of a half-depth locker each side and – a first for Hanse – a dedicated liferaft locker right aft to starboard. With the electric-lowering option for the starboard table comes an extra moulded seat pod, which provides readily-accessible shallow stowage forward of the starboard helm and would be good to have for that reason alone.

hanse electric sailboat

Portlights and windows flood the saloon with natural light. Photo: HanseYachts/Nico Krauss

Moving about the deck and cockpit, and from one to the other, is easy in good weather. The wide open spaces let you simply stroll around – or lounge if you’re so inclined. Then again, they tend to present more of a challenge when a boat’s bouncing and heeling.

Lifestyle choices

Externally, the hull lines clearly differentiate the 460 from her earlier stablemates, but down below it’s a world apart. It’s certainly a more classy finish than we’ve seen before from Hanse; restrained in tone and a level above what we have become used to. Berret-Racoupeau is one of relatively few yacht design studios to have its own interior-design division.

hanse electric sailboat

Stateroom forecabin has generous stowage above and below the bed. Photo: HanseYachts/Nico Krauss

A host of interior layouts is available, from three to five cabins, up to four showers and from six to 10 berths. About the only constant is the presence of twin double cabins in the stern. Otherwise you can have different arrangements in the bow (cabins and heads) and amidships with a long or short linear galley and a bunk cabin or utility room to starboard where our boat had a chart table and heads compartment.

Details include backrests that hinge down in the saloon to provide trays and drinks-holders. You can press a button to lower the table, press another to pop up the TV from its central pod, and settle in for the evening.

Down here it’s all about sight-lines, integrating the different areas so no one feels left out, and ensuring that, as in the cockpit, every part of the layout performs multiple functions. In practice it creates a thoroughly pleasant and remarkably light environment.

If you enjoyed this….

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Sometimes you come across a boat that makes you realise not only that yacht design has changed irrevocably, but also why it has changed and why it’s not going back. The Hanse 460 is unquestionably such a boat. How the crew lives aboard and moves around, both above and below decks, has clearly been thought about in the context of modern lifestyles. And this boat exudes style. If you like the fundamental design, you will be able to tailor many of the options and details to suit your tastes. A yacht like this is unlikely to slice to windward in heavy weather as comfortably as, say, a first-generation Swan 46, but most people aren’t really interested in that these days. I suspect the new Hanse will prove to be a pretty quick and competent all-rounder nonetheless. Simple sailing? The technology is not remotely simple any more. But with the Hanse 460, the sailing itself is simple and can still be a lot of fun.

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Technology cooperation for new sailing yacht drive

Rudder Drive, the new electric propulsion system for sailing yachts developed by Torqeedo together with the large-scale boat builder Hanse Yachts and rudder manufacturer Jefa, combines outstanding maneuverability and minimal weight with a powerful emission-free motor.

The core of this innovative concept is the proven and specially adapted Torqeedo Cruise 4.0 with folding propeller, designed in to the rudder blade itself. The streamlined system replaces the combustion inboard or saildrive and removes the need for a separate thruster on the new sailing yacht Hanse 315 e-motion rudder drive, which debuts at the end of October.

Outstanding maneuverability

Due to the unique rudder placement of the 4 kW (8 horsepower equivalent) Torqeedo electric motor, the motor can apply efficient, directional thrust. The Jefa rudder blade’s range of motion was extended to a total of 100 degrees. Demanding maneuvers can now be accomplished without a separate thruster. While motoring, the yacht can spin on its own axis – both forward and in reverse. While docking, the stern can easily be maneuvered into the proper position. This is highly useful in windy conditions or in narrow slips.

Exceptional endurance with minimal weight

Power generation while sailing

With integrated Torqeedo fast chargers, the emission-free version of the Hanse 315 is fully charged in just three hours. The batteries can be recharged at the dock or during sailing when the Rudder Drive’s folding propeller is used to generate power. Torqeedo is the only manufacturer of electric boat propulsion systems offering industrial engineering, complete system integration and ISO 9001 certified serial production in Germany.

World launch at the Hanseboot Hamburg

For the first time, the new propulsion system will be presented installed in the Hanse 315 e-motion rudder drive at the International Boat Show Hanseboot 2016 in Hamburg. We are looking forward to welcoming you to the Hanse Yachts booth (hall 6, booth C108) on Sunday, October 30, 2016 at 2 pm.

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Pictures: Hanse 315 e-motion rudder drive motoring, Rudder Drive renderings

Published by Torqeedo GmbH Friedrichshafener Str. 4a 82205 Gilching Germany

Reprinting free of charge. 1 copy requested.

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Exalto Emirates LLC is Torqeedo’s new sales partner in the United Arab Emirates.

25 APRIL 2016

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Nominee Spotlight: Hanse 510

  • By Andrew Parkinson
  • October 5, 2023

The Berret-Racoupeau-designed Hanse 460 turned heads as a 2022 Boat of the Year nominee with a fresh take on comfort and volume but with an eye better sailing performance. The second model in the new range designed by the Berret-Racoupeau team, the Hanse 510 is set to make its US premiere at the 2023 Annapolis Sailboat Show—again as a Boat of the Year contender. From what our editors saw at the model’s recent showing in Cannes, the 510 is expected to be a formidable opponent in its category during CW ’s Boat of the Year judging.

Bow of the Hanse 510

As for dockside demeanor, this new range’s calling card appears to be a marked chine on the bow and an inverted bow to optimize sailing performance. According to the designers, attention was also paid to refining the hull shape to maximize interior space. The result is an easy-on-the-eyes 51-footer that values smooth sailing and fast, comfortable cruising.

According to the builder, the Hanse 510 offers unrivalled volume in the 50-foot class, courtesy of an optimized hull design. Chines at the bow and aft further allow for a slim waterline, ensuring prime performance and easy sailing.

The 510 is equipped with a large, practical dinghy garage, capable of holding an inflated dinghy of up to 8.8 feet; and the optional, newly developed Hanse Smart Tender System makes launching that dinghy as simple as “driving a car out of the garage.” Convenience and style dominate the interior. Even the crew cabin gets in on the volume action, as it’s much more than the typical (read: small) crew sleeping space—it is a room worthy of staying a while. The options list is lengthy, and the boat can be highly customized to meet owners’ needs.

Hanse 510 rear

“Expectations were high after the outstandingly successful Hanse 460, which has been awarded European Yacht of the Year,” says Hanjo Runde, CEO of HanseYachts. “The new Hanse 510 is the logical and consistent further development of the new concept. With her impressive volume, tremendously dynamic lines and countless options, she is redefining the 50-foot class. It is an easy to sail and enormously spacious private retreat.” 

The key talking points of the 510 are numerous. A hydrodynamic design with a slender waterline promotes better hull speed. Chines fore and aft allow for a wider hull and more interior space. The reverse, wave-piercing bow makes the yacht pitch less in strong winds, while the pronounced bow chines keep the foredeck as dry as possible. On deck, the strategically placed helm position promotes total control of the Hanse 510 in any situation, with all navigation and performance information easily accessible, as well as all lines and even the electric winches on the port side. An optional hardtop shades the entire cockpit including the steering positions, and it blends seamlessly with the boat’s silhouette. It is also available in several colors and accommodates special lighting and solar panels. A fixed windscreen is another option. 

Hanse 510 at anchor

The novel dinghy garage is capable of holding a dinghy of up to 8.8 ft without having to deflate it. Combined with the optional automatic comfort stairs and the newly developed Hanse Smart Tender System, a single crew member can safely and comfortably deploy the dinghy, including engine, in minutes.

Another novelty on the Hanse 510 is the easy-to-open life raft storage space in the cockpit. Situated just in front of the companionway, it’s easily accessible and has space for standard 8-person life raft containers. An optional wet bar with grill and sink is hinged at the stern so as not to absorb precious cockpit space. 

The boat comes rigged with a self-tacking jib, and all lines run back to the cockpit for simple sail handling of the 710 sq. ft. mainsail and various headsails. The jib is 570 sq. ft. and the reacher measures 1,011 sq. ft., set up using a Solent-style rig on the custom bowsprit. Air draft of the deck-stepped mast is just over 77 feet above the waterline. Optional electric furling systems and winches make light work of handling halyards and sheets for the optimum in performance, short-handed sailing. The standard boat comes with a single, 80 hp saildrive, although an upgraded, optional 110 hp diesel is also available.

Hanse 510 interior

Within the interior, 14 well positioned opening hatches and eight opening windows and portholes permit maximum light and ventilation below deck. A long list of layout options are said to be available for the interior arrangement, from an “owner’s yacht” with a best-in-class sized master cabin, to a “charter yacht” with 10 berths, three bathrooms and an additional skipper cabin. The galley can be fully adapted to the owner’s needs as well: In addition to various refrigerator and freezer options, there is room for a wine cooler, dishwasher and a three-burner gas cooker plus an oven in the longitudinal pantry, which can be customized with a vast choice of colors and materials. Another option is a fully equipped navigation area with a forward-facing seat and a large salon table. The extensive options list, ranging from a washing machine in the utility room to flatscreens in the master cabin and salon, is crowned by the Flagship Package, which includes highest-end fabrics and materials, not to mention a “hidden” bar behind the folding backrest in the salon.

At its core, the Hanse 510 emphasizes a roomy cockpit, large but manageable sail plan, and overall performance that is easily managed by a couple, but perhaps what really sets the Hanse 510 apart from other sailboats in its class is the limitless level of customization the builder is willing to offer. The Hanse 510 also comes with a CE rating of A-12, so it is well suited for those who want to venture longer distances. 

Hanse 510 Specifications

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The NKD Sailor

Electric Sailboats

For prospective buyers, here is a list of new sailboats that at the time of writing have an electric motor in their specifications , either in the standard configuration or as an option. (Updated 19.1.2022)

Please comment or send me an email ( [email protected] ) if you find errors or omissions.

Alva Yachts

  • Ocean Sail 72 , 135 kW electric motor
  • Ocean Sail 82 , 135 kW electric motor

Arcona Yachts

  • Arcona 345 , Oceanvolt
  • Arcona 385 , Oceanvolt
  • Arcona 415 , Oceanvolt 15 kW
  • Arcona 435 , Oceanvolt
  • Arcona 465 , Oceanvolt

Domani Yachts

  • Design S30 , Torqueedo Cruise 24V e-saildrive
  • Design S32L , Torqueedo Cruise 48V e-saildrive, 4kW

Elan Yachts

  • Elan E3 , Oceanvolt 8 kW.
  • Elan E4 , Oceanvolt 8-10 kW.
  • Elan E5 , Oceanvolt 10-15 kW.
  • Elan E6 , Oceanvolt 15 kW or Oceanvolt 10 kW twin.
  • Elan i40.1 , Oceanvolt 10-15 kW.
  • Elan i45.1 , Oceanvolt 15 kW.
  • Elan i50.1 , Oceanvolt 15 kW twin.
  • Elan GT5 , Oceanvolt 15 kW or Oceanvolt 10 kW twin.
  • Elan GT6 , Oceanvolt 15 kW twin.

Hanse Yachts

  • Hanse 315 , Torqeedo e-motion rudder drive ,

Jeremy Rodgers Limited

  • Contessa 32 new build , Beta/Hybrid-Marine ,

Salona Yachts

  • Salona 33 , Oceanvolt 8 kW.
  • Salona 35 , Oceanvolt 8 kW.
  • Salona 38 , Oceanvolt 8 kW.
  • Salona 41 , Oceanvolt 10 kW.
  • Salona 46 , Oceanvolt 15 kW ( also with 2 x 10 kW ).

Spirit Yachts

  • SPIRIT 44CR(E) , Oceanvolt 15 kW.

Viator Marine

  • Viator Explorer 42 DS , 2 x Bellmarine DriveMaster 15kW 48V
  • Viator Explorer 54 DS , 2 x ISCAD V50 50kW 48V
  • WALLYNANO MKII , Oceanvolt 6 kW.

Antares Catamarans

  • Antares 44 Hybrid , Hybrid Marine 40 HP Yanmar Parallel hybrid system

DNA Performance Sailing

  • DNA G4 , Oceanvolt 6 kW.

HH Catamarans

  • HH44 , 2 x BETA 30 + 2 x 10 kW parallel hybrid drives
  • OC44 , 2 x BETA 30 + 2 x 10 kW parallel hybrid drives
  • HopYacht 30 , 2 x 6 kW E-propulsion pod drive .

Independent Catamaran

  • IC36 Independence , 2 x Oceanvolt 6 kW.

ITA Catamarans

  • ITA 14.99 , 2 x Oceanvolt 15 kW with 1 x 15 kW generator.

Lady Hawke Catamarans

  • LH 33 Comfort Eco , 2 x Oceanvolt 6 kW

Maverick Yachts

  • Maverick 440 Hybrid , 2 x Oceanvolt 15 kW

Open Waters Yachts

  • Open Waters ESC40 , 2 x 10 kW electric motors
  • Outremer 4.zero , 2 x Oceanvolt 10 kW.

SeaQuest Catamarans

  • SeaQuest 46 , 2 x Oceanvolt 15.1 kW

Slyder Catamarans

  • Slyder 49 , 2 x 22 kW electric motors
  • Slyder 59 , 2 x 25 kW electric motors

Sunreef Yachts

  • Sunreef 50 Eco Yacht , 2 x 40 kW electric motors
  • Sunreef 60 Eco Yacht , 2 x 70 kW electric motors
  • Sunreef 70 Eco Yacht , 2 x 90 kW electric motors
  • Sunreef 80 Eco Yacht , 2 x 160 kW electric motors
  • Sunreef 100 Eco Yacht , 2 x 270 kW electric motors

Vaan Yachts

  • VAAN R4 , 2 x Torqeedo FP10 10 kW saildrive (standard), 2 x Oceanvolt 15 kW (option)
  • VAAN R5 , 2 x Torqeedo Deep Blue saildrive 25 kW or 2 x Oceanvolt 15 kW
  • Windelo 50 Adventure (also Yachting and Sport versions), 2 x Bellmarine 20 kW electric motors.
  • Windelo 54 Adventure (also Yachting and Sport versions), 2 x 24 kW Bellmarine electric motors.

The little (electric) engine that could: The Port of San Diego unveils the nation’s first all-electric tug boat

The 82-foot, all-electric eWolf tug boat, dockside at the Port of San Diego.

The 82-foot eWolf expects to eliminate 3,100 metric tons of carbon dioxide

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The nation’s first all-electric tug boat has docked at the Port of San Diego and expects to begin emissions-free operations in about a month.

Operated by Crowley Maritime Corporation , the 82-foot eWolf will escort ships entering and leaving the Tenth Avenue Marine Terminal using electric power instead of diesel fuel, helping slash greenhouse gas emissions at the port and its neighbors in Barrio Logan and National City.

For the record:

1:58 p.m. March 13, 2024 This story has been updated to show the correct amount of government funding that went to the project.

“This is a big deal,” said port chairman Frank Urtasun at a news conference Monday. “This is new technology.”

Capable of speeds of up to 12 knots, the eWolf is powered by a 6.2 megawatt-hour main propulsion battery and two electric drives. The tug has thrust — also known as bollard pull in the parlance of the shipping industry — of 76.8 short tons, which is more powerful than the diesel-powered counterparts at the port.

Constructed in Alabama, the eWolf is equipped with two small generators for emergency use that allow the boat to travel longer distances at a reduced speed.

“Like an electric car, you step on the gas and it jumps,” said Paul Manzi, vice president of Crowley Shipping, based in Jacksonville, Fla. “All of the attributes that you have with an electric motor operation in a car or in an electric truck, you see here in the (eWolf) at massive scale. And it’s extremely quiet so when it pulls away from the dock you literally won’t hear any noise.”

The tug boat’s electricity will come from a charging station that is part of a microgrid facility equipped with two energy storage containers. Battery modules in each container have storage capacity of nearly 1.5 megawatt-hours.

Interconnected with the help of San Diego Gas & Electric, the charging station at the port is designed to allow the vessel to recharge quickly and reduce peak loads on the electric grid.

Operators plan to charge the eWolf overnight so it can perform its chores during daytime hours.

“This technology has individually been around for a while, but it hasn’t necessarily been integrated and optimized to all work together — and that’s kind of our role,” said Bruce Strupp, vice president at ABB Marine & Ports , the company that designed the boat’s propulsion system. “Some of the technology is our technology, some of it’s third-party technology, but we integrate it all together.”

The electric tug boat is expected to begin commercial operations at the port in mid- to late-April, depending on the completion of the charging station.

The all-electric eWolf tugboat at the Port of San Diego

Officials at Crowley did not release the eWolf’s price tag Monday, saying only that it cost about twice as much as a conventional diesel-powered tug boat of comparable size.

But, Manzi said, the company expects the eWolf’s maintenance and operating costs will be “dramatically lower” than what’s spent on a diesel-powered tug boat because the electric model has fewer moving parts.

The entire project — the vessel as well as the charging station — received four grants that added up to $13.67 million, with two grants of $10.9 million from the San Diego Air Pollution Control District, one grant of just over $2 million from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and $750,000 from the federal government’s Maritime Administration.

In 2020, Gov. Gavin Newsom signed an executive order that directed state agencies to transition off-road vehicles — including tug boats — and equipment to 100 percent zero emissions by 2035.

By replacing one of the port’s diesel-powered tugs, the eWolf is expected to eliminate the consumption of about 35,000 gallons of diesel fuel per year. In its first 10 years of use, the electric tug boat is expected to reduce about 3,100 metric tons of carbon dioxide from the port and its surrounding areas such as Barrio Logan and National City.

“We’re trying to be good neighbors and trying to be able to help to reduce emissions here to help the electrification movement,” Urtasun said, adding that the port has spent about $130 million on various electrification projects.

Last year, the Port of San Diego became the first in North America to install a pair of all-electric cranes to load and off-load heavy cargo. Each 262 feet high, the cranes replaced an older crane that ran on diesel fuel. Together, the cranes expect to help the port reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 47 metric tons per year.

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EJET Eco-Friendly Electric Motor & Drivetrain Yacht Tenders: New Model Announced

Boat engineering and design company EJET Electric Yacht Tenders has announced the development of its latest electric motor 9X yacht tender model.

hanse electric sailboat

Ljubljana, Slovenia - March 21, 2024 —

Much like their highly acclaimed 4X tender, the upcoming 9X model sports EJET’s proprietary electric motor and drivetrain, going in line with founder Žiga Jarc’s mission of providing sustainable transportation options for yacht owners and guests. Both models will be available in the summer, with the 9X build slated for initial testing in July.

For more information, please visit https://ejet.co/

The announcement follows EJET’s recent appearance at the Boot Düsseldorf Boat Show. Having received the International Boat Industry’s Rising Star Award, the company revealed the development of its larger 9X model with the aim of promoting environmental responsibility within the boating industry.

Designed to be lightweight and compact without sacrificing output or speed, the new tender will be powered by a 220 kWh battery and a 300 kW motor, with an option to upgrade to 340 kW, ensuring 98% efficiency and making it suitable for sports such as water skiing. The boat’s V-shaped hull has been adjusted to accommodate EJET’s custom electric powertrain and is capable of withstanding turbulent waters and inclement weather conditions. Each boat is built with standard hydraulic steering mechanisms, along with the company’s military-grade jet system, allowing for easy maneuvering, reversing, and sudden stops in both low- and high-speed scenarios.

The 9X model will also feature a digital interface, which boaters will be able to use to select different driving modes and dynamics, view real-time GPS navigation and system data, and access the smart audio Bluetooth system. Additionally, amenities such as a hydraulic bathing platform, an electric grill, an ice maker, and a refrigerator will all be available as upgrade options for all 9X tenders.

About EJET Electric Yacht Tenders

Founded in 2016 by Žiga Jarc, EJET began with the goal of developing a zero-emissions electric yacht tender that did not compromise performance or safety. The company has since become a pioneer in electric propulsion systems and remains committed to future innovations in the boating industry. EJET tenders are currently the only products on the market with custom electric drivetrains.

EJET Electric Yacht Tenders, under the leadership of founder Žiga Jarc, is actively engaged in the development of its proprietary electric propulsion technology. The initiative is part of the company's broader commitment to innovation in high-performance, long-range powertrain technology for the marine industry. This effort underscores EJET's focus on delivering solutions characterized by their lightweight and compact design, high power output, and exceptional motor efficiency of up to 98%. With a specific emphasis on extending battery life, the company aims to set new benchmarks for what is achievable in electric propulsion within the boating sector.

“We built the company and the brand on three pillars: driver-centric experience, sustainability with clean electric power, and advanced electric propulsion technology,” says Ziga Jarc. “We cooperate with the best nautical partners to create unforgettable experiences for our customers.”

Interested parties can learn more by visiting https://ejet.co/contact-us/

Contact Info: Name: Žiga Jarc Email: Send Email Organization: EJET Electric Yacht Tenders Address: 16C Mokrška ulica, Ljubljana, Ljubljana 1000, Slovenia Phone: +386-41-688-998 Website: https://ejet.co/

Release ID: 89125030

If there are any errors, inconsistencies, or queries arising from the content contained within this press release that require attention or if you need assistance with a press release takedown, we kindly request that you inform us immediately by contacting [email protected] . Our reliable team will be available to promptly respond within 8 hours, taking proactive measures to rectify any identified issues or providing guidance on the removal process. Ensuring accurate and dependable information is our top priority.

More From Forbes

What candela’s electric hydrofoiling passenger ferry means for sustainable transportation.

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The all-electric-powered Candela P-12 ferry flies over the water on hydrofoils

I would never say “I told you so,” but…now that Candela , the world’s leading producer of all-electric-powered hydrofoiling boats, has just closed the largest funding round in the company's history, I might be bold enough to say…”I’m not surprised.”

That’s because I’ve been closely following the development of this wonderfully smart company’s hydrofoiling boats since I test flew a P-7 near their small and efficient shop in Stockholm in 2021. So, I’m really not surprised they just raised over $25 million to expand production of their game-changing P-12 ferry. And since yacht building powerhouse Groupe Beneteau is a key partner in the largest fundraising round Candela has ever completed it appears Candela’s brand of tech-controled hydrofoiling is about to go global.

“Our investment perfectly aligns with Groupe Beneteau‘s ecological transition objectives, scaling up innovative solutions for more sustainable boating and unparalleled experiences,” says Bruno Thivoyon, CEO of Groupe Beneteau, the world's largest boat manufacturer (15 factories, 9 brands, and more than 8,000 yachts built annually) with a total revenue of over $1.5 billion in 2023. “Candela’s technology, enabling significantly more efficient electric vessels, will transform waterborne transport into its next sustainable phase.”

A Candela P-8 and P-12 underway near Stockholm, Sweden

“We couldn’t be more excited about having Groupe Beneteau on board,” says Gustav Hasselskog, Founder and CEO of Candela. “As the leading global boat company, their trust is a stamp of approval for our technology to transform waterborne transportation. We’re excited for the possibilities ahead."

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The new investment round will help to scale up production to meet demand for the recently launched Candela P-12, the world’s first electric hydrofoil ferry. The P-12 is the first fast and long-range electric ferry on the market. Its efficient hydrofoil technology cuts lifetime emissions by 97.5% compared to diesel vessels, while simultaneously allowing operators to save up to 50% in operating costs. Since it generates minimal wake, the P-12 has been granted exemptions from speed limits, as for example on its maiden route in Stockholm, where it from July will cut travel times in half compared to road transport and legacy diesel vessels.

And it’s pretty obvious Hasselskog and company are on the right track. According to some projections the market for electric vessels is expected to be worth $14.2 Billion USD in 2030.

“We’ve spent years developing the technological maturity, and now we’re fit for scaling to commercial vessels. As in any industry, the fastest-scaling company will dominate the market,” says Hasselskog.

The Candela P-8 and P-12 hardly make a ripple as they fly over the water on computer-controlled ... [+] hydrofoils

Other backers in the round include longtime investors EQT Ventures , Ocean Zero LLC , and Kan Dela AB. The new investment brings total funding since Candela’s inception to over $75 million.

“EQT Ventures has steadfastly backed Candela's vision to accelerate the shift towards fossil fuel-free lakes and oceans since 2021. The launch of Candela's P-12 vessels signifies a watershed moment in sustainable transport", says Lars Jörnow, Partner at EQT Ventures.

The only question is: when will we see a P-12 ferry here in the US?

Bill Springer

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Candela’s electric ferries multiply as the startup lines up $25M in new funding

hanse electric sailboat

Electric boat maker Candela is approaching cruising speed with $25 million in new funding and the first commercial deployment of its new P-12 ferry in New Zealand. The company has global ambitions for its highly efficient boats and has completed and delivered dozens of them — which is a lot in this industry!

Candela has been slowly upping the size of its vessels for years, starting with the considerably smaller C-7 and C-8 (noting the length in meters) — of which, as of this week, they have now produced a total of 70. The P-12, a ferry design that can handle up to 30 passengers, made its debut late last year .

Just last week, the P-12 was given its first assignment: ferry people around New Zealand’s Lake Manapōuri , a scenic destination but also, more importantly, the site of the country’s largest hydroelectric power station. And now staff at that station can get to work via clean-running boat rather than driving, which the companies estimate will save around 240 tons of emissions per year. It’s a start, and it will help keep the lake clean and quiet.

International interest in these boats is also evident in the participation of Groupe Beneteau, a more than century-old boating company that makes thousands of vessels yearly, in the funding round. Groupe Beneteau CEO Bruno Thivoyon expressed in the press release that investing in Candela makes sense as part of the company’s “ecological transition objectives, scaling up innovative solutions for more sustainable boating.”

Many legacy boating companies are embracing electric engines and next-generation tech; I spoke with the head of another major manufacturer, Brunswick’s Dave Foulkes, at CES about it. He said that the collaborations are fruitful because the small, growing companies need the income and reach, while the larger ones need ready-to-deploy tech. Like any other industry, you have to know when to buy and when to build, and big boating companies are happy to buy — or invest.

Candela’s boats use hydrofoils with electric engines mounted on the bottom to effectively fly above the surface of the water once they get past a certain speed, vastly reducing energy consumption — historically and understandably a sticking point for electric boating. The approach does necessitate a powerful autopilot to keep it balanced, and despite their assurances, I wonder about how they’d handle log collisions, but overall the advantages seem to outweigh the drawbacks.

I drove one over the summer in Seattle (watching closely for logs, rather common in Elliott Bay) and wished they would replace the gas-chugging fast passenger ferries with P-12s. Candela isn’t the only one pursuing this market, either; Navier is also attempting to woo coastal communities with the draw of quiet, energy-efficient transit and is currently shuttling Stripe employees around the Bay Area . And while Zin Boats has been quiet for some time, they are also nailing down markets for the next version of their vessel.

The $25 million round was led, as mentioned, by Beneteau, with participation from EQT Ventures, Ocean Zero LLC, and Kan Dela AB.

Breaking rules, setting trends

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The new Hanse 458 is the yacht for all of those who set trends. With a pioneering design and the most thrilling performance in its class. With an exquisite interior and an exceptionally diverse range of customization options. The Hanse 458 caters to the highest demands on contemporary style and quality of life. Let yourself be amazed by excellence across 45 feet (ca. 14 m).

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Moscow metro - spirit of a city (e.p).

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40 facts about elektrostal.

Lanette Mayes

Written by Lanette Mayes

Modified & Updated: 02 Mar 2024

Jessica Corbett

Reviewed by Jessica Corbett

40-facts-about-elektrostal

Elektrostal is a vibrant city located in the Moscow Oblast region of Russia. With a rich history, stunning architecture, and a thriving community, Elektrostal is a city that has much to offer. Whether you are a history buff, nature enthusiast, or simply curious about different cultures, Elektrostal is sure to captivate you.

This article will provide you with 40 fascinating facts about Elektrostal, giving you a better understanding of why this city is worth exploring. From its origins as an industrial hub to its modern-day charm, we will delve into the various aspects that make Elektrostal a unique and must-visit destination.

So, join us as we uncover the hidden treasures of Elektrostal and discover what makes this city a true gem in the heart of Russia.

Key Takeaways:

  • Elektrostal, known as the “Motor City of Russia,” is a vibrant and growing city with a rich industrial history, offering diverse cultural experiences and a strong commitment to environmental sustainability.
  • With its convenient location near Moscow, Elektrostal provides a picturesque landscape, vibrant nightlife, and a range of recreational activities, making it an ideal destination for residents and visitors alike.

Known as the “Motor City of Russia.”

Elektrostal, a city located in the Moscow Oblast region of Russia, earned the nickname “Motor City” due to its significant involvement in the automotive industry.

Home to the Elektrostal Metallurgical Plant.

Elektrostal is renowned for its metallurgical plant, which has been producing high-quality steel and alloys since its establishment in 1916.

Boasts a rich industrial heritage.

Elektrostal has a long history of industrial development, contributing to the growth and progress of the region.

Founded in 1916.

The city of Elektrostal was founded in 1916 as a result of the construction of the Elektrostal Metallurgical Plant.

Located approximately 50 kilometers east of Moscow.

Elektrostal is situated in close proximity to the Russian capital, making it easily accessible for both residents and visitors.

Known for its vibrant cultural scene.

Elektrostal is home to several cultural institutions, including museums, theaters, and art galleries that showcase the city’s rich artistic heritage.

A popular destination for nature lovers.

Surrounded by picturesque landscapes and forests, Elektrostal offers ample opportunities for outdoor activities such as hiking, camping, and birdwatching.

Hosts the annual Elektrostal City Day celebrations.

Every year, Elektrostal organizes festive events and activities to celebrate its founding, bringing together residents and visitors in a spirit of unity and joy.

Has a population of approximately 160,000 people.

Elektrostal is home to a diverse and vibrant community of around 160,000 residents, contributing to its dynamic atmosphere.

Boasts excellent education facilities.

The city is known for its well-established educational institutions, providing quality education to students of all ages.

A center for scientific research and innovation.

Elektrostal serves as an important hub for scientific research, particularly in the fields of metallurgy, materials science, and engineering.

Surrounded by picturesque lakes.

The city is blessed with numerous beautiful lakes, offering scenic views and recreational opportunities for locals and visitors alike.

Well-connected transportation system.

Elektrostal benefits from an efficient transportation network, including highways, railways, and public transportation options, ensuring convenient travel within and beyond the city.

Famous for its traditional Russian cuisine.

Food enthusiasts can indulge in authentic Russian dishes at numerous restaurants and cafes scattered throughout Elektrostal.

Home to notable architectural landmarks.

Elektrostal boasts impressive architecture, including the Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord and the Elektrostal Palace of Culture.

Offers a wide range of recreational facilities.

Residents and visitors can enjoy various recreational activities, such as sports complexes, swimming pools, and fitness centers, enhancing the overall quality of life.

Provides a high standard of healthcare.

Elektrostal is equipped with modern medical facilities, ensuring residents have access to quality healthcare services.

Home to the Elektrostal History Museum.

The Elektrostal History Museum showcases the city’s fascinating past through exhibitions and displays.

A hub for sports enthusiasts.

Elektrostal is passionate about sports, with numerous stadiums, arenas, and sports clubs offering opportunities for athletes and spectators.

Celebrates diverse cultural festivals.

Throughout the year, Elektrostal hosts a variety of cultural festivals, celebrating different ethnicities, traditions, and art forms.

Electric power played a significant role in its early development.

Elektrostal owes its name and initial growth to the establishment of electric power stations and the utilization of electricity in the industrial sector.

Boasts a thriving economy.

The city’s strong industrial base, coupled with its strategic location near Moscow, has contributed to Elektrostal’s prosperous economic status.

Houses the Elektrostal Drama Theater.

The Elektrostal Drama Theater is a cultural centerpiece, attracting theater enthusiasts from far and wide.

Popular destination for winter sports.

Elektrostal’s proximity to ski resorts and winter sport facilities makes it a favorite destination for skiing, snowboarding, and other winter activities.

Promotes environmental sustainability.

Elektrostal prioritizes environmental protection and sustainability, implementing initiatives to reduce pollution and preserve natural resources.

Home to renowned educational institutions.

Elektrostal is known for its prestigious schools and universities, offering a wide range of academic programs to students.

Committed to cultural preservation.

The city values its cultural heritage and takes active steps to preserve and promote traditional customs, crafts, and arts.

Hosts an annual International Film Festival.

The Elektrostal International Film Festival attracts filmmakers and cinema enthusiasts from around the world, showcasing a diverse range of films.

Encourages entrepreneurship and innovation.

Elektrostal supports aspiring entrepreneurs and fosters a culture of innovation, providing opportunities for startups and business development.

Offers a range of housing options.

Elektrostal provides diverse housing options, including apartments, houses, and residential complexes, catering to different lifestyles and budgets.

Home to notable sports teams.

Elektrostal is proud of its sports legacy, with several successful sports teams competing at regional and national levels.

Boasts a vibrant nightlife scene.

Residents and visitors can enjoy a lively nightlife in Elektrostal, with numerous bars, clubs, and entertainment venues.

Promotes cultural exchange and international relations.

Elektrostal actively engages in international partnerships, cultural exchanges, and diplomatic collaborations to foster global connections.

Surrounded by beautiful nature reserves.

Nearby nature reserves, such as the Barybino Forest and Luchinskoye Lake, offer opportunities for nature enthusiasts to explore and appreciate the region’s biodiversity.

Commemorates historical events.

The city pays tribute to significant historical events through memorials, monuments, and exhibitions, ensuring the preservation of collective memory.

Promotes sports and youth development.

Elektrostal invests in sports infrastructure and programs to encourage youth participation, health, and physical fitness.

Hosts annual cultural and artistic festivals.

Throughout the year, Elektrostal celebrates its cultural diversity through festivals dedicated to music, dance, art, and theater.

Provides a picturesque landscape for photography enthusiasts.

The city’s scenic beauty, architectural landmarks, and natural surroundings make it a paradise for photographers.

Connects to Moscow via a direct train line.

The convenient train connection between Elektrostal and Moscow makes commuting between the two cities effortless.

A city with a bright future.

Elektrostal continues to grow and develop, aiming to become a model city in terms of infrastructure, sustainability, and quality of life for its residents.

In conclusion, Elektrostal is a fascinating city with a rich history and a vibrant present. From its origins as a center of steel production to its modern-day status as a hub for education and industry, Elektrostal has plenty to offer both residents and visitors. With its beautiful parks, cultural attractions, and proximity to Moscow, there is no shortage of things to see and do in this dynamic city. Whether you’re interested in exploring its historical landmarks, enjoying outdoor activities, or immersing yourself in the local culture, Elektrostal has something for everyone. So, next time you find yourself in the Moscow region, don’t miss the opportunity to discover the hidden gems of Elektrostal.

Q: What is the population of Elektrostal?

A: As of the latest data, the population of Elektrostal is approximately XXXX.

Q: How far is Elektrostal from Moscow?

A: Elektrostal is located approximately XX kilometers away from Moscow.

Q: Are there any famous landmarks in Elektrostal?

A: Yes, Elektrostal is home to several notable landmarks, including XXXX and XXXX.

Q: What industries are prominent in Elektrostal?

A: Elektrostal is known for its steel production industry and is also a center for engineering and manufacturing.

Q: Are there any universities or educational institutions in Elektrostal?

A: Yes, Elektrostal is home to XXXX University and several other educational institutions.

Q: What are some popular outdoor activities in Elektrostal?

A: Elektrostal offers several outdoor activities, such as hiking, cycling, and picnicking in its beautiful parks.

Q: Is Elektrostal well-connected in terms of transportation?

A: Yes, Elektrostal has good transportation links, including trains and buses, making it easily accessible from nearby cities.

Q: Are there any annual events or festivals in Elektrostal?

A: Yes, Elektrostal hosts various events and festivals throughout the year, including XXXX and XXXX.

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hanse electric sailboat

Apr 24, 2018. Hanse's E-motion electric rudder drive represents a true breakthrough in auxiliary propulsion for saiboats. When news that Hanse Yachts had launched a new form of electric-powered yacht first broke in the winter of 2016, it was widely reported. After all, Hanse is one of the world's biggest builders of sailing boats, so this ...

For the first time, the Hanse 410 offers optional electric propulsion with an enormous range of up to 55 nautical miles. This means that even without wind, most destinations can be reached in a climate-friendly way. Hanjo Runde, CEO of HanseYachts : " This innovative electric drive is an important step towards making our product range even ...

The E-MOTION RUDDER DRIVE is a revolution in Yachting.The Hanse 315 e-motion rudder drive was developed in cooperation with the partners Jefa and Torqeedo an...

Hanse 410. Step into the future. Redefining elegance on the seas, her optimized hull featuring chines at the bow and stern provides the uncompromising performance and easy sailing typical for Hanse. Optional electric propulsion and other sustainability features minimise her environmental footprint. And up to three expansive cabins and the ...

The world's third largest boatbuilder, Hanse Yachts, is perhaps the most advanced - offering its entry-level Hanse 315 with an electric rudder-drive option. The system takes up less space than ...

For the first time, the Hanse 410 introduces an optional electric propulsion system, boasting a remarkable range of up to 55 nautical miles. For even greater independence, a fuel cell delivers emission-free energy. Or, turn to the proven power of solar technology to keep essential appliances running on board without burning any fuel.

Its innovative hull shape ensures unrestricted performance. With its unprecedented 51-foot dimensions, the Hanse 510 offers the largest dinghy garage in its class. The spacious cockpit is the perfect place to relax with family and friends. From the generous owner's cabin to the salon to the comfortable crew cabin, this yacht offers exquisite ...

Oct 31, 2016. In Hanse's innovative Rudder Drive system, a Torqeedo electric motor embedded in the boat's rudder provides propulsion. The system will make its debut on the new Hanse 315 e-motion. It was developed by Hanse in conjunction with fellow German company Torqeedo, a leader in electric propulsion, and Jefa, the Danish steering ...

Hanse Yachts introduces E-Motion Rudder Drive - an interesting propulsion type, with a special folding propeller….. An electric engine and a folding propeller have been installed into the rudder shaft, replacing the combination of diesel engine and sail drive. As a result, the propeller thrust is in line with the rudder position. This enables turning in the smallest circles or rotating ...

How it works the new electric propulsion system created by Hanse Yachts and Torqeedo.

Hanse returned to Berret-Racoupeau, who also designed the 460 (a Top 10 Best Boats 2023 winner), to create the 510, and the result can leave you lingering over the lines. Starting with an aggressive, wave-piercing reverse bow, the relatively flat sheer and low deckhouse give this boat a fast, agreeably sharkish look even sitting still, despite ...

Controlling the boat in itself is so much easier anyway, especially if - as most owners of the Hanse 460 will - you upgrade to electric winches, electric in-mast reefing and electric furling ...

World launch at the Hanseboot Hamburg. For the first time, the new propulsion system will be presented installed in the Hanse 315 e-motion rudder drive at the International Boat Show Hanseboot 2016 in Hamburg. We are looking forward to welcoming you to the Hanse Yachts booth (hall 6, booth C108) on Sunday, October 30, 2016 at 2 pm. PDF Download.

Hanse 315. Voted European Yacht of the Year right after its launch, the Hanse 315 is the epitome of what makes a yacht great. With its perfect sailing characteristics and easy handling, the 31-foot entry-level model is easy to maneuver. Two staterooms, a spacious salon with L-shaped pantry and the largest cockpit in its class provide true comfort.

Hanse. Hanse is a yacht brand that currently has 310 yachts for sale on YachtWorld, including 95 new vessels and 215 used yachts, listed by experienced yacht brokers mainly in the following countries: United States, Germany, Spain, Greece and Croatia. The selection of models featured on YachtWorld spans a spectrum of sizes and lengths ...

The Berret-Racoupeau-designed Hanse 460 turned heads as a 2022 Boat of the Year nominee with a fresh take on comfort and volume but with an eye better sailing performance. The second model in the new range designed by the Berret-Racoupeau team, the Hanse 510 is set to make its US premiere at the 2023 Annapolis Sailboat Show—again as a Boat of the Year contender.

Hanse Yachts. Hanse 315, Torqeedo e-motion rudder drive, Jeremy Rodgers Limited. Contessa 32 new build, Beta/Hybrid ... (also with 2 x 10 kW). Salona 46, also known as the "almost perfect electric sailboat" in this Sailing Uma video. Picture from salonayachts.com. Spirit Yachts. SPIRIT 44CR(E), Oceanvolt 15 kW. Viator Marine. Viator ...

The nation's first all-electric tug boat has docked at the Port of San Diego and expects to begin emissions-free operations in about a month. Operated by Crowley Maritime Corporation, the 82 ...

Boat engineering and design company EJET Electric Yacht Tenders has announced the development of its latest electric motor 9X yacht tender model. Ljubljana, Slovenia - March 21, 2024 — Much like ...

Check out this Used 2024 Hanse 418 for sale in Newport, RI 02840. View this Cruisers and other Sail boats on boattrader.com. ... all while enjoying the elegance and style of the very well-designed HANSE Yachts 418. Feel right at home on the open seas with the trademark fast hull line and impressive sail plan, crafted by the world-renowned yacht ...

The all-electric-powered Candela P-12 ferry flies over the water on hydrofoils. Candela. I would never say "I told you so," but…now that Candela, the world's leading producer of all ...

Boat Review: Hanse 315. The baby of the Hanse 5 series, the 315, looks surprisingly serious at the dock. She's got an almost predatory look, even compared to any 50-footers that might be in the area—which seems funny until she gets out on the water and kicks some booty. Between her easy-sailing rig that cuts down on tacking drama and her ...

Electric boat maker Candela is approaching cruising speed with $25 million in new funding and the first commercial deployment of its new P-12 ferry in New Zealand. The company has global ambitions ...

Hanse 458. The new Hanse 458 is the yacht for all of those who set trends. With a pioneering design and the most thrilling performance in its class. With an exquisite interior and an exceptionally diverse range of customization options. The Hanse 458 caters to the highest demands on contemporary style and quality of life.

Find company research, competitor information, contact details & financial data for BETA GIDA, OOO of Elektrostal, Moscow region. Get the latest business insights from Dun & Bradstreet.

It has been over a year since first being introduced to Limerick based 4-piece Moscow Metro* through their wonderful debut double-A side containing the tracks "Spirit of a City" and "Cosmos" for free, which sounded near perfect in spite of the band only being together for a few months at the time of recording. Now fast-forward 12 months, and as a result of the initial love for the band, they ...

Known as the "Motor City of Russia." Elektrostal, a city located in the Moscow Oblast region of Russia, earned the nickname "Motor City" due to its significant involvement in the automotive industry.. Home to the Elektrostal Metallurgical Plant. Elektrostal is renowned for its metallurgical plant, which has been producing high-quality steel and alloys since its establishment in 1916.

Local band Moscow Metro (featuring Barry McNulty, Sean Corcoran, Dylan Casey & Alan Holmes) will perform on the Cosby Stage at 12.55pm on Saturday at the Electric Picnic.

IMAGES

  1. Tom Cunliffe: A guide to downwind sailing

    reefing catamaran downwind

  2. Downwind sails: How to pick the right one and fly it

    reefing catamaran downwind

  3. Tom Cunliffe: A guide to downwind sailing

    reefing catamaran downwind

  4. F18 Crew Positions

    reefing catamaran downwind

  5. How to Reef While Sailing Downwind

    reefing catamaran downwind

  6. Reefing boomless main downwind

    reefing catamaran downwind

VIDEO

  1. Reefing the Sails.wmv

  2. Following Downwind

  3. Following Downwind

  4. Windy Downwind Sailboat Docking

  5. Starrider Sailing Off Long Island NY

  6. Catamaran Sailing in 40 knots

COMMENTS

  1. Downwind Reefing

    Eric taught me his technique for reefing a large catamaran mainsail downwind, which is why I refer to it as the "Barto Reefing Technique". Of course there are many experienced sailors that reef downwind all the time and think nothing of it. I'm sure there are many different techniques that are used also.

  2. How To Sail a Catamaran Upwind or Downwind (Complete Guide)

    To sail a catamaran upwind, maintain high speeds, center the mainsheet, limit angles to 45-60°, lose unnecessary weight, upgrade to Kevlar sails and daggerboards. To sail a catamaran downwind, maintain 160-170°, use asymmetrical spinnakers, reef when winds exceed 15 knots, and jibe. Downwind gusts can help a catamaran surf down waves ...

  3. Downwind Sailing on a Cruising Catamaran

    Although sailing downwind in the trades in a cruising boat has its challenges, it is a relatively pleasant and fairly easy experience on a catamaran. There is a more-or-less continuous flow of air across the Atlantic called the trade winds. Because the Earth is warmer at the equator and colder at the poles, and because of Earth's rotation ...

  4. Essential reefing tips for cruisers

    The answer is to pole it out or sail high enough to keep it filled and stable. Tacking downwind not only keeps the genoa filled and stable, but it can also be faster, or as least as quick as, a dead run. This is particularly true of lightweights and catamarans, but less so for heavy displacement long-keelers. Reefing theory in practice

  5. Tom Cunliffe: A guide to downwind sailing

    October 1, 2017. You don't always want to have to come head-to-wind to reef. In this extract from The Complete Ocean Skipper, Tom Cunliffe talks about how to reduce canvas without turning around. On passage, your mainsail is hoisted and likely to stay up, barring extreme weather, until you arrive and, for much of the time out there at sea, a ...

  6. Reefing Made Easy

    Can't wait to try this on my catamaran. It shouldn't be too difficult since the main halyard goes to the helm, so the job can be shared. ... We reef downwind without any trouble, with a system quite like Morgans Cloud. We have a 550 sq ft main on a 66 ft stick. Andersen 52 halyard winch and an Andersen 40 for reef pennants, mounted below ...

  7. Reefing

    Reefing downwind is far more controllable and safer than having to turn the nose of the boat into the teeth of a gale and taking the waves onto the beam. ... Reefing on a catamaran involves reducing the area of the sails to decrease the amount of wind that the sails are exposed to. This reduces the power of the wind to slow the boat down while ...

  8. Reefing Downwind

    Reefing Downwind. Rupert Holmes. Dec 10, 2021. It may not be pretty, but reefing while sailing downwind means not having to fight a spike in the apparent wind. Photo by Rupert Holmes. We're broad reaching with two reefs already in the main and the breeze rapidly building. We've already seen gusts in the upper 20s and a few above 30 knots.

  9. Catamaran cruising: everything you really need to know

    Sail with the weather forward or aft of the beam. Keep an eye on heel angle. Reduce sail if you start to see any more than 5° or so, unless you have a catamaran that is designed to lift a hull ...

  10. Catamaran Sailing Part 5: sailing downwind

    Catamaran Sailing Techniques Part 5: sailing a cat downwind - with Nigel Irens. Choice of sails and an awareness of your VMG are important when sailing a catamaran downwind, says Nigels Irens ...

  11. Controlling Your Sails On A Catamaran

    The reef line tensions the foot of the sail by pulling the leech down and aft. Don Margraf. Write your reefing-guide checklist with true-wind speed in mind, and make a note to clearly understand how your boat's speed and heading affect apparent-wind speed and angle. Then make a note on the dashboard for downwind drivers: "Steer down in a ...

  12. Double handed sailing skills: Upwind trim and reefing

    When reefing downwind, as the mainsail drops the leech of the sail will be blown forward, pushing the sail against the spreaders and making it more difficult for the sail to descend any further.

  13. reefing the main sail at a catamaran

    As I am hearing many opinions about reefing the main sail at a catamaran, I am interested to learn about the ways catamaran main sails are reefed by members of this forum's Multihull Sailboats section. Reefing the main while sailing . upwind, with the wind abeam,; sailing downwind. I am thanking you in advance for your replies.

  14. Reefing a Catamaran

    Ben, Reefing a catamaran main sail is exactly the same as reefing a monosail main sail. At the dock, if you can get access to the reefing points, you can tie the forward reefing gromet down and secure the leech reefing lines. However this is sometimes a bit difficult. So you can also do this as the sail raises up when you're out on the water ...

  15. How To Reef A Sail: A Beginners Guide

    Unless you are continuing a particular course, you may not need to reef at all. If you need to turn downwind, for instance, you can turn sooner and keep a full sail. ... Reefing catamarans is a good example of needing to reef the main and not the foresail. The foresail of a catamaran creates an upward lift, which is important to prevent the cat ...

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    test. The Sunreef 88 DD hasn't forgotten any of the rules of super-yachting. Attention to detail and refinement is everywhere on board, making life enjoyable. The cockpit interior offers a good view forward across the water. From here, you can handle the boat while staying warm during night watches.... At the water, the Portless Catamaran inflates into an impressive 14.8-foot (4.5-m) cat with ...

  17. Mainsail handling: Advanced sailing techniques for catamarans and

    With the standard pinhead mainsail, the first reef is recommended to go in at 21 knots both upwind and downwind, and in less wind with the optional square-top main, or in a bad sea-state. The ...

  18. 628DirtRooster

    Welcome to the 628DirtRooster website where you can find video links to Randy McCaffrey's (AKA DirtRooster) YouTube videos, community support and other resources for the Hobby Beekeepers and the official 628DirtRooster online store where you can find 628DirtRooster hats and shirts, local Mississippi honey and whole lot more!

  19. THE 10 BEST Things to Do in Elektrostal

    Things to Do in Elektrostal. 1. Electrostal History and Art Museum. 2. Statue of Lenin. 3. Park of Culture and Leisure. 4. Museum and Exhibition Center.

  20. Mainsail handling: Advanced sailing techniques for catamarans and

    Reefing is easy to do upwind or reaching, and I often slow right down to reef, and then get going again when the reef is finished. This keeps the apparent wind speed down, and makes for a safer platform for the crew. Downwind it can be trickier, with the friction of the sail and full length battens on the shrouds.

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