c&c 41 sailboat

C&C 41 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of C&C 41. Built by C&C Yachts and designed by Robert Ball, the boat was first built in 1981. It has a hull type of Fin w/spade rudder and LOA is 12.42. Its sail area/displacement ratio 19.35. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by Yanmar, runs on Diesel.

C&C 41 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about C&C 41 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, auxillary power tank, accomodations, contributions, who designed the c&c 41.

C&C 41 was designed by Robert Ball.

Who builds C&C 41?

C&C 41 is built by C&C Yachts.

When was C&C 41 first built?

C&C 41 was first built in 1981.

How long is C&C 41?

C&C 41 is 10.16 m in length.

What is mast height on C&C 41?

C&C 41 has a mast height of 15.24 m.

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1984 C&C 41 world cruiser?

• Thread starter Prestonrockstar
• Start date Apr 22, 2020
• Brand-Specific Forums

Prestonrockstar

Hi everyone, I currently sail an Ericson 27 and am looking at upgrading to my endgame boat. Under a tight budget, I'm looking at a C&C 41 1984. I've been reading some mixed reviews from other than C&C owners about whether its really a blue water cruiser or not. While I am a long way from crossing an ocean, I'm just curious, could this boat be a competent ocean crosser? I know anything can float across an ocean with the right people handling it, but some are just made better for it and make it easier. In the next 10 years, I would likely switch to a boat a bit more live aboard layed out, but for now the C&C has the price that's right with a good amount of space. If any owners would be willing to toss their experiences, confidences, or lack thereof regarding ocean crossing a 41, I sure would love to hear it before I buy it! Thanks, Preston  

the boat was designed for C&C as a pure IOR racer in the early 80's. now you can answer your own question. you are the 'rockstar', Preston, put your full rockstar racing crew on it and have a great crossing. it's design is at the totally opposite end of the spectrum from say 'shorthanded cruiser' sailing. IOR boats were known to be quite squirrely downwind, narrow on the ends and wide in the middle. comfort was not part of the design. take lots of pictures and post them here. we like pictures here on SBO.  

kappykaplan

jon hansen said: SPO Click to expand

I'm not a racer. Which is why I'm not well versed in IOR boats. Spending days and days researching online slowly finding good tid bits. I will likely only use this boat for crusing the Puget Sound, San Juan's, BC, and Alaska, with my kids. All coastal stuff and inland waters for the majority of it, and essentially single handed. When you say "quite squirly downwind", are we talking you just have to keep your hand on it, keep your eye on it, constantly making those little adjustments..or are we talking suit up, strap in, and sh** your pants when it suddenly jibes without warning type of squirely?  

in a blow, downwind they are extremely demanding. the second of your choices  

they are nice boats. designed to win races. with a full race crew aboard.  

If I were looking for a Bluewater boat in the age and size that you cite, I'd be looking for an 1986 Island Packet 38.  

IOR boats were designed to beat the IOR handicap rule. fast for their rating. chubby boats were given a break, so they made them chubby. they have that weird bustle at the waterline in the stern to beat the rated waterline measurement. they have huge rudders to try and control them off the wind. the have narrow mains with huge jibs with the mast placed farther aft. none of these things say "comfort", none of these things say "easy to handle". fun boats to sail in lighter air and/or a race crew aboard. back in the 80's my friends loved racing their C&Cs. and they won.  

keep small jibs up front and she'll be fine. that vessel can do what you want. of course. they were nice boats. they were designed as pure racers. everything is give and take. my boat is very easy to sail and is very comfortable and safe and SLOW by todays standards. it has long overhangs with lots of extra buoyancy but that extra overhang is known to be grabbed by a following wave and thrown into a broach when sailing dead down wind. however in 46 years with the boat i have never broached it. it's designed as a coastal cruiser not a trade wind runner. you asked about crossing oceans Preston in the OP., leapfrogging the coast from your home is a different set of priorities.  

DayDreamer41

We have one that docks next to us, they race and we race, we go out with 2, 3 or 4 crew, they go out with at least 6 better with 8. Is it fast sure is, the only time we see them is at the line. I know the C&C's had wet core syndrome so if you go that direction make sure you have it review very closely. She has beautiful lines as well, but blue cruiser I wouldn't put that high on my list.  

If you are interested I have a dock neighbor who is selling his Passport 40 1987 which has been meticulously kept, this is (2) owner boat is absolutely beautiful, never has seen salt water, the owner spends more time polishing than sailing. It is currently out of the water, I believe that his wife took ill causing the need to sell, a truly unfortunate thing. If you are interested I can send you the link to the ad, it is priced to sell at 129K  

Sailfanatic

The right first step in boat buying is to buy a boat that the designer designed for the purpose that you intend to use it for. The right second step is to buy a boat whose PO has equipped and maintained it for the same purpose you plan to use it for. The C&C 41 may be called a racer/cruiser but it was designed to race. so few of its parameters support use as a cruising boat. No tankage, big jibs, hard to handle, little storage, etc. open cockpits with destroyer wheel. Simply a dead end as a cruising boat, akin to asking "I can get a used NASCAR vehicle cheap, can I use it as a daily driver?".. You would be going in a completely different and correct direction if you were to consider the C&C Landfall series, where the designer built into the boat the characteristics to make a competent cruising boat.  

Thank you! Nothing I found online in my research was clear enough. Lot's of people happy with their C&C 41's using as cruisers. None of them talked about handling or anything. (maybe they motor everywhere). My hopes of having found a cheap cruiser have been dashed! But that's a good thing! I didn't know anything about IOR until now.  

HI, looking for a C&C 41 that will take you around the world?? I'll tell you where you can find one. There is an older version for sale in Canada on Yachtworld. Here is a picture of that same boat sailing in conditions that you will hopefully never encounter! I have no connection to the boat - nothing in this for me. It has a new repower, and the price will save you a lot of $$$'s for the things you need to add.  

Attachments

Jim Maddrey

Prestonrockstar said: Thank you! Nothing I found online in my research was clear enough. Lot's of people happy with their C&C 41's using as cruisers. None of them talked about handling or anything. (maybe they motor everywhere). My hopes of having found a cheap cruiser have been dashed! But that's a good thing! I didn't know anything about IOR until now. Click to expand

Kind of an old thread, but I'll put my two cents in. The OP sounds like me. He wants a nice boat, but he doesn't want to spend every last cent on it. Someone mentioned an Island Packet. I assume they missed the tight budget part. Those old C&Cs are fantastic boats, but they are race horses, which would explain why they can be had cheap. Hardcore racers with deep pockets will be looking at the newer stuff. I think he should look at older Pearsons and Hunters. They can be cheap, especially the Hunters and they are great cruisers. I looked at and damn near bought an '88 Hunter Legend 35. Looked to be in pretty good shape and I could have had it for 10 grand. Is it as good a boat as that C&C 41? No, but I would guess that it has way more room inside than the C&C, despite being 6 ft shorter. And with a little upgrading, I think it would be just fine wandering off shore if he wanted.  

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The C&C 41 is a 40.75ft masthead sloop designed by R. Ball and built in fiberglass by C&C Yachts since 1981.

The C&C 41 is a moderate weight sailboat which is a good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a good righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser. The fuel capacity is originally small. There is a short water supply range.

C&C 41 for sale elsewhere on the web:

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• Sailboat Guide

C&C 41 GP

C&C 41 GP is a 40 ′ 8 ″ / 12.4 m monohull sailboat designed by Rob Ball and built by C&C Yachts starting in 1981.

• 1 / 12 Kenora, ON, CA 1984 C&C 41 GP $110,000 USD View
• 2 / 12 Kenora, ON, CA 1984 C&C 41 GP $110,000 USD View
• 3 / 12 Kenora, ON, CA 1984 C&C 41 GP $110,000 USD View
• 4 / 12 Kenora, ON, CA 1984 C&C 41 GP $110,000 USD View
• 5 / 12 Kenora, ON, CA 1984 C&C 41 GP $110,000 USD View
• 6 / 12 Kenora, ON, CA 1984 C&C 41 GP $110,000 USD View
• 7 / 12 Kenora, ON, CA 1984 C&C 41 GP $110,000 USD View
• 8 / 12 Kenora, ON, CA 1984 C&C 41 GP $110,000 USD View
• 9 / 12 Kenora, ON, CA 1984 C&C 41 GP $110,000 USD View
• 10 / 12 Kenora, ON, CA 1984 C&C 41 GP $110,000 USD View
• 11 / 12 Kenora, ON, CA 1984 C&C 41 GP $110,000 USD View
• 12 / 12 Kenora, ON, CA 1984 C&C 41 GP $110,000 USD View

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

See C&C 41 for more details.

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