rolex yacht master white

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Introducing The Rolex Yacht-Master 42 In White Gold (Live Pics & Pricing)

Matte black bezel. need i say more.

From a distance, you'd be forgiven for not even realizing that this watch is a new introduction to Rolex's collection. I mean, it looks so much like something that could have been in the catalog for decades, but it's actually as fresh as it gets. This is the first 42mm time-and-date Yacht-Master, offering a larger option for those who still find 40mm too conservative, and it comes with a sleek combination of a black dial and an unbelievable bezel made of white gold with a matte black Cerachrom insert. The markings on that insert are raised and polished and the result is totally stunning. Inside is the caliber 3235, which is Rolex's most state-of-the-art, time-and-date movement. It uses the Chronergy high-efficiency escapement and is regulated to a crazy +2/-2 seconds per day. If you liked the Everose gold Yacht-Master introduced back in 2015 but wanted something bigger and sleeker (and somehow even more reliable), your prayers have been answered.

The Yacht-Master line can be a bit confusing, even for people who know their Rolex references backwards and forwards. First off, like with the Explorer, there's a standard Yacht-Master (which is what you're looking at here) and a Yacht-Master II (which is 44mm and has a regatta timer complication). As far as the simpler time-and-date models go, there are now three sizes: 37mm, 40mm, and 42mm. There are a mix of metal configurations, including steel and platinum, steel and Everose gold, all Everose gold, and now all white gold. And don't even get me started on the various incarnations of the Oyster bracelet and Oysterflex bracelet that you can choose from.

For me, the new Yacht-Master 42, despite adding a bunch of new options to the mix, is the purest expression of the model yet. The white gold case is luxe and hefty while still giving off the appearance of being a hearty tool watch, the matte black bezel is straight-up mean looking, and the Oysterflex bracelet is practical and casual. This is a watch for someone who wants to look low-key but likes things just so. And I can squarely get behind that.

Brand: Rolex Model: Yacht-Master 42 Reference Number: 226659

Diameter: 42mm Case Material: 18k white gold Dial Color: Black Indexes: Applied white gold and Chromalight Lume: Chromalight on hands and hour markers Water Resistance: 100 meters Strap/Bracelet: Oysterflex bracelet with white gold Oysterlock clasp

Caliber: 3235 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date Diameter: 28.5mm Power Reserve: 70 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph) Jewels: 31 COSC Chronometer Certified Additional Details: Regulated to +2/-2 seconds per day, utilizes Chronergy escapement

Price: $27,800 Availability: Later this year

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WATCHES & WONDERS 2024

The stealthy excellence of the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in white gold (ref. 226659)

If you weren’t paying close attention you could easily miss the new Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in white gold. And I mean that in the best way. It’s a handsome timepiece, with a quiet presence that (despite its newness) feels reassuringly familiar in some hard-to-define way.

Despite being 2mm bigger than its Everose Gold brother (and a 42mm Oyster case wears quite big), it’s the opposite of in your face. In fact, thanks to the monochrome colour scheme of the dial, bezel and case, and the matt black Oysterflex strap, it may be the most discreet model in Rolex’s entire line-up.

I’m not suggesting that it can’t be a love-at-first-sight piece – but the more closely you look, the greater the rewards. The absence of colour draws your eye to the details, and emphasises the play of shiny and matt surfaces: the fine band of polished notches around the outer edge of the bezel contrasts with the matt Cerachrom insert, which in turn plays against the shine of the black lacquer dial. The polished surfaces of the raised numerals on the bezel (they are an integral part of the bezel, moulded with the ceramic, rather than applied) cast barely-there shadows on the surrounding matt surface. And when the light plays over the highly polished case-side, with its seamless cutaway from lugs to crown guards – well, it’s a beautiful thing. The curve is perfect and the white gold has a visual softness that you just don’t get with steel or platinum.

The matt black rubber Oysterflex strap is the Goldilocks element, tying everything together in just-right harmony (whereas the hardness and shine of a metal bracelet could throw things off-balance visually).

Having been introduced in 2015, the Oysterflex strap is no longer news but it’s worth revisiting because it’s such a great piece of design – possibly the most comfortable watch strap known to mankind. That’s thanks to the tiny, flexible ‘blades’ hidden on the underside between a pair of longitudinal cushions. The effect is a feeling of extraordinary lightness on the wrist (balanced in this case by the pleasant heft of the white gold case), absolute stability and … no sweat. Literally, since the air can circulate between skin and strap. The folding clasp has an integrated extension system that enables you to adjust it in 2.5mm increments, up to a total of about 15mm – instantly and without tools.

On the dial, simplicity of the markers and their assertive size make it highly legible (again, with no colour to distract the eye – not even the line of red text that appears on other Yacht-Masters). Thanks to the Chromalight lume (which glows blue in the dark) none of this clarity is lost at night.

Rolex scores more points by bringing its new-generation Calibre 3235 (launched last year) into the Yacht-Master range for the first time – a technical step up from the Everose Gold model. The key attributes of cal.3235: the patented Chronergy escapement, designed to maximise energy efficiency and made of magnetically neutral nickel-phosphorus, and the Parachrom hairspring, resistant to shocks and also paramagnetic. The benefit: accuracy of +2/-2 seconds per day (tested after casing), more than twice the standard chronometer specification.

As we expect from Rolex, this is an exceedingly well built and tremendously practical watch, ideally suited to everyday sporting wear. Although it’s water-resistant to 100 metres, it’s designed for above-water not underwater life. The bezel is bi-directional; it’s Yacht-Master, not Dive-Master. It’s not a tool watch. So while I briefly thought – as I’m sure many of you did – “Why not steel?” I no longer ask that (rhetorical) question. White gold is entirely appropriate and, in this handsomely sporty monochrome package, it’s the stealth Rolex par excellence.

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 (ref. 226659) price

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 , white gold on Oysterflex, $36,950

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Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Oyster, 42 mm, white gold M226659-0002

All prices are Rolex’s suggested retail price before applicable taxes. The suggested price can be modified at any time without notice.

All prices are Rolex's suggested retail prices inclusive of V.A.T. Prices can be modified at any time without notice.

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Please contact us or visit your nearest Tourneau location for information and pricing of this timepiece.

Prices can be modified at any time without notice.

Model availability

The Yacht-Master’s new Oysterflex bracelet, developed and patented by Rolex, offers a sporty alternative to metal bracelets. The bracelet attaches to the watch case and the Oysterlock safety clasp by a flexible titanium and nickel alloy metal blade. The blade is overmoulded with high-performance black elastomer which is particularly resistant to environmental effects, very durable and perfectly inert for the wearer of the watch. For enhanced comfort, the inside of the Oysterflex bracelet is equipped with a patented longitudinal cushion system that stabilizes the watch on the wrist and fitted with an 18 kt white gold Oysterlock safety clasp. It also features the Rolex Glidelock extension system, designed and patented by the brand. This inventive toothed mechanism, integrated beneath the clasp, allows fine adjustment of the bracelet length by some 15 mm in increments of approximately 2.5 mm, without the use of tools.

By operating its own exclusive foundry, Rolex has the unrivalled ability to cast the highest quality 18 kt gold alloys. According to the proportion of silver, copper, platinum or palladium added, different types of 18 kt gold are obtained: yellow, pink or white. They are made with only the purest metals and meticulously inspected in an in-house laboratory with state-of-the-art equipment, before the gold is formed and shaped with the same painstaking attention to quality. Rolex's commitment to excellence begins at the source.

The Yacht-Master’s bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel is made entirely from precious metals or fitted with a Cerachrom insert in high-tech ceramic. The raised polished numerals and graduations stand out clearly against a matt, sand-blasted background. This functional bezel – which allows the wearer to calculate, for example, the sailing time between two buoys – is also a key component in the model’s distinctive visual identity.

All Rolex watches are assembled by hand with the utmost care to ensure exceptional quality. Such high standards naturally restrict Rolex production capacity and, at times, the demand for Rolex watches outpaces this capacity.

Therefore, the availability of certain models may be limited. New Rolex watches are exclusively sold by Official Rolex Jewelers, who receive regular deliveries and independently manage the allocation and sales of watches to customers.

Tourneau I Bucherer is proud to be part of the worldwide network of Official Rolex Jewelers and can provide information on the availability of Rolex watches.

Light and robust, the new Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium is the ally of those seeking freedom of movement. Especially suited to the demands and pressures of competitive sailing, it puts watchmaking excellence at the service of sporting performance.

The Yacht-Master 42 is the second watch in RLX titanium released by Rolex after the Oyster Per-petual Deepsea Challenge, confirming that light-ness is a quality to be taken seriously.

Please indicate your preferred method of contact and we will respond as quickly as possible.

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Rolex Yacht-Master 42 White Gold ref. 226659

The master and commander of the crown's nautical fleet..

If a conservative bastion of watchmaking like Rolex proposes a 42mm white gold watch on a black rubber strap as the epitome of sporty elegance, well, you’ll have to admit that times have changed. Rolex seems to have tapped into the zeitgeist for larger luxury sports watches doubling up as watches that can be worn just about everywhere with just about anything. Released during Baselworld 2019, the Yacht-Master was revisited in a larger 42mm case with sleek black tones and the new-generation calibre 3235. It also marks the first time the Yacht-Master has appeared in white gold, so let’s take a closer look at Rolex’s “watch of the open seas”, the Yacht-Master 42 White Gold ref. 226659.

The call of the sea

When Hans Wilsdorf presented the Oyster in 1926, the world’s first waterproof wristwatch, he paved the way for Rolex’s outstanding and ongoing tradition of water-resistant watches. From the iconic Submariner to hyper professional deep-sea divers like the Sea-Dweller , the sea and all things maritime are a natural habitat for Rolex’s robust tool watches. Rolex also enjoys a long-standing relationship with the world of sailing and since the early 1950s has partnered with select yacht clubs around the world. As the sponsor of prestigious regattas, like the exciting Rolex Fastnet Race, Rolex even developed a watch, the Yacht-Master II, with a specific regatta countdown function for competitive sailors.

Below: Sir Francis Chichester, the first person to sail single-handed around the world from west to east, a nine-month journey from August 1966 to May 1967. Next to it, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual he was wearing on his wrist during this voyage.

But what about wealthy yacht owners and sailing club members who prefer to watch regattas as opposed to participate in them? Men who want a sporty looking watch that can definitely take a plunge but with enough panache to wear to a cocktail or a more formal event? Welcome the Yacht-Master 42, Rolex’s luxury nautical sports candidate.

Theory of Evolution

Rolex is the most Darwinian of watch brands, generally known for introducing evolutions as opposed to revolutionising the scene with brand new collections year after year. Careful, well-thought-out ameliorations on existing models tend to be the norm at Rolex and most of the time it’s a tweak on the dial or an ‘exciting’ upgrade to steel. Change comes slowly at Rolex and only to improve upon an existing species.

This explains why the debut of the Yacht-Master in 1992 was hailed as such a groundbreaking, surprising event: a full 25 years had passed since Rolex’s last release (1967 Sea-Dweller). But there was another reason why the Yacht-Master surprised and then failed to engage Rolex fans and that was its non-tool watch status. Unlike the Submariner, the solid gold case of the Yacht-Master was not really compatible with a rugged, professional dive watch. Although it picked up on many design cues and was fitted with the same calibre as the Submariner, the water-resistance was reduced to 100 metres and its vocation as a professional dive watch was redirected to activities above deck.

Tooled down, dressed up

Although Rolex will never officially confirm whether the Yacht-Master was the result of an aborted plan to revamp the Submariner in the 1980s, the Yacht-Master was positioned as a luxurious nautical watch, a statement watch that you can wear on the deck of your yacht, get splashed by ocean spray and still look, well, affluent.

The first generation Yacht-Master appeared in 1992 with a 40mm yellow gold case (ref. 16628) and a white dial. Sharing the same dial with no numerals, the same hands, the same date window with Cyclops lens, the same 60-minute bezel, the same Triplock crown, and the same movement as the Submariner, the differences lay in the more refined, more rounded aesthetics, the thick solid gold (bidirectional) bezel and the large raised mirror-polished numerals.

Over the years the Yacht-Master has appeared in a mid-size 35mm men’s version and even a 29mm ladies’ model (1994). Today it exists in three sizes: 42, 40 and 37mm. It wasn’t until 1999, however, that the Yacht-Master really got the wind in its sails with a steel case and platinum bezel model (ref. 16622) called Rolesium, which is still going strong today. By 2005, two-tone Yacht-Masters joined the line-up and in 2015, the Everose (ref.116655) introduced two major aesthetic updates: the bezel featuring a black ceramic insert and a daring black rubber ‘Oysterflex’ strap.

Overnight, the 2015 Yacht-Master looked radically different from its metal counterparts. It was suddenly more contemporary, sleeker and more dramatic with its rich red gold case and contrasting matte black features.

Sized up, toned down

Sporty look but luxurious materials (and price…) This white gold Yacht-Master 42 proclaims its independence from the Submariner.

The 2019 Rolex Yacht-Master 42 follows the style mandates of the 2015 model playing heavily on the textures card but tones down the colour scheme and ups the size. With its more discreet 18k white gold case and matte black bezel and strap, you could say that this is the black-tie model of the Yacht-Master family. It is also the largest model of the Yacht-Master with a 42mm diameter, no doubt a move designed to differentiate it one step further from the 40mm steel Submariner Date with a black dial and bezel.

If for any reason your first glance at the watch led you to believe it was a Submariner, a quick look at the price tag will clearly establish its identity. This Yacht-Master 42 reference 226659, in white gold costs EUR 25,700 while the Submariner Date ref. 116610LN costs EUR 7,850: that’s a difference of EUR 17,850 (if ever you can find a Submariner Date at retail price… but that’s another debate )

A case study in textures

The case, for the first time in the Yacht-Master’s relatively short history, is crafted in 18k white gold straight from Rolex’s proprietary foundry. All the gold surfaces are polished for a more elegant feel and the lugs benefit from the 2015 update when they were whittled down and given more of a curve.

The distinctive white gold, bidirectional rotating bezel of this Rolex Yacht-Master 42 is filled with black Cerachrom ceramic. Developed and patented by Rolex, Cerachrom is a hard ceramic material that is practically scratch-proof, corrosion-resistant and impervious to ultraviolet rays. The matte black ceramic has been sandblasted to provide a more technical, contemporary finish and provides the background for the raised black numerals marking 0-60 minutes. The numerals and markers are first moulded into the ceramic and then polished to contrast with the sandblasted bezel.

Add to this the remarkably flexible and resilient black rubber strap and you can see how important textures are to this watch: the cold, sleek feel and weight of white gold; the rugged, slightly gritty sandblasted ceramic; the knurled bezel and fluted caseback; the prominent and raised numerals; and the agreeable warm and supple texture of the rubber strap.

The black lacquered dial, which reinforces the sober aesthetics of this Rolex Yacht-Master 42, features applied 18k white gold hour markers. The hallmark Mercedes hour hand, the minutes hand and the central seconds hand with its round counterweight are also crafted in white gold, and like the hour markers, are treated with Rolex’s very own luminescent material known as Chromalight that emits a long-lasting blue glow in the dark. As a model that is equally as happy in an executive suite as on the deck of a yacht, all Yacht-Masters have a date window at 3 o’clock magnified with Rolex’s hallmark Cyclops lens.

Oysterflex bracelet

Originally used for dive watches, the rubber strap went upmarket in the 1980s onboard Hublot’s daring precious metal/rubber strap combination. The Rolex Yacht-Master 42, like the 2015 model, is fitted with a matte black rubber strap. Not just any black rubber strap mind you, but a black elastomer strap with a hidden infrastructure made up of flexible metal blades that replicate the robustness and reliability of a metal bracelet with the flexibility and comfort of a rubber strap. An Oysterlock folding clasp in 18k white gold fitted with an extension system (Glidelock) allows you to adjust the length of the strap by about 15mm without tools!

From our experience, it might seem big on the wrist and protrude quite a lot… But believe us, it certainly is one of the most comfortable straps you’ll find on the market.

Calibre 3235

This Rolex Yacht-Master 42 reference 226659 is fitted with the latest-generation automatic movement developed and manufactured by Rolex: calibre 3235. First introduced in 2015 to replace the long-serving calibre 3135, calibre 3235 is now Rolex’s flagship date-function movement and is protected by no fewer than 14 patents! The most significant innovation is the new Chronergy escapement. Made from anti-magnetic nickel-phosphorous, about half of the beefy 70-hour power reserve can be attributed to the newly designed escapement. A Parachrom hairspring fitted on Paraflex shock absorbers, also insensitive to magnetic fields and temperature variations, offers 10 times more precision that a tradition hairspring in case of shocks. Calibre 3235 was the first movement to receive Rolex’s own certification as a Superlative Chronometer with a tolerance of just -2/+2 seconds a day (more stringent than COSC).

The name of this watch couldn’t be more appropriate. Yacht-Master refers to the master of the yacht, not the deckhand or cabin boy. Clearly, this is a statement watch with a lot of style that makes its point without shouting. It is also a versatile watch: sporty but not a cumbersome tool watch, robust but sleek enough to wear at more formal engagements. Far less flashy than the Everose model, the combination of white gold and black give this watch a distinctive, elegant personality. As for the 42mm diameter, it seems that Rolex is only answering a demand of the market. I know some here might disagree on this increased diameter, but many collectors are asking for larger watches… The people have spoken.

Price & Availability

The Rolex Yacht-Master 42 reference 226659 has a retail price of EUR 25,700 . Regarding availability, it is now for sale in stores. Demand appears reasonable and the watch doesn’t suffer the same shortage or premium as some other Rolex models (in steel, though).

More information rolex.com .

Technical specifications – Rolex Yacht-Master 42

14 responses.

This seems to be a well-planned and well-executed product that takes Rolex where it probably wishes to be … in the segment of luxury sports watches, rubbing shoulders with AP and Patek. And I bet that their brand ‘halo’ is strong enough to make most target customers make overlook the horological differences between Rolex and Trinity time pieces …

It’s a bit too big and bulky, but I have always thought this design was just about perfect. On the right wrist, in steel, I say, “Fair enough.” The other day I was outside having a smoke and a brand new 911 Carrera S pulled up. I defy anyone to fault that purchase.

Es un submariner de oro blanco nada más

I just don’t get the price hike for a tool watch of good but not great quality…however, people will buy it because it’s a Rolex and they are advertised at F1, tennis and golf championships. Who pays for that?

A tool watch in white gold. Hahaha. What a joke.

I’m sorry if I offended you. Maciej, I honestly didn’t know a tool watch was only in stainless steel. Now I am better informed, thank you.

No, no, no, no!! Keith, you did not offend me. I can’t hear but I do sense sarcasm in your comment;-) I wasn’t at all referring to your comment. Besides, I do agrr with what you say. I just hate things that pretend to be something they are not. You don’t make white gold hammers. Just like I hate the idea of a Lamborghini SUV. Gold is an elegant material, and a tool is a tool. It’s all marketing. Things like watches, cars, cameras etc are tools, they have a function. Sure, you want them to look and feel special and so on, of course, you want them to have character, be more than just tools. But when they start become fashion or marketing items, to me they lose their raison d’etre.

I agree entirely…

Every single Rolex is a fashion item or statement of wealth which is nothing to do with function. I once asked on a Rolex forum what a submariner could do that a $100 quartz dive watch rated to 300m could not. I was greeted with outrage, but not a single person could give me a coherent answer. Why? Because the answer is “nothing.”

I don’t agree. No, I do agree. We all know that $100 Casio does an even better job than a Submariner. And you could say this about pretty much about any of the watches featured in Monochrome. And obviously soldiers use G-Schocks rather than Vermont’s, pilots probably don’t need to use any watches, much less Navitimers. And “nobody” who buys a Submariner actually takes it diving (just like “nobody” takes their Range Rover off-roading (in””, because a small percentage probably do). But that doesn’t mean they are just fashion items…we want our accessories to feel and look special, not “just do the job”. But once they start contradicting their intended purpose, even if it’s just theoretical, they—as I said—lose their raison d’etre. Even if in practical terms they have lost 8t long time ago.

Todo eso que enuncian se llama sociedad de consumo

The key word Maciej is “accessories” A professional diver doesn’t have those. A soldier soon learns the stupidity of taking an inadequate watch into combat. Doesn’t matter which Brand Ambassador promotes it. Here’s a clue as to the authenticity of G-Shock. They don’t have them. Don’t need them. A competition yachtsman would probably not want the weight of all that gold. It’s ALL nonsense. I see many young men toting fancy leather bags these days. Why? The same reason they buy “lifting toning water” and friggin “lightening” underarm deoderant! Just another demographic to squeeze dry. We have reached The End of Days.

I’ve always thought that Rolex were brilliantly made watches but never thought they actually looked great. I do like the look of this one but it is a fashion piece not a tool watch

The thing that REALLY REALLY annoys most watch guys is that Rolex USED TO BE genuine tool watches. Then they fell victim to “Louis Vuitton Syndrome”. Vuitton used to make some of the best leather in Europe…..120 years ago. Now they sell mediocre bags at stratospheric prices. And they don’t even make them where they claim to make them. At least with Rolex, you ARE getting a technically superior watch as time moves on. But that is the excuse they use to inflate the prices to insulting levels. They find ways to justify massive prices, like “904L steel” and RolexRolexRolexRolexRolex all around the rehaut (which hugely cheapens the look if you ask me). And then they do other things which actively detract from the stated mission, like refusing to use AR coatings, like polishing tool watches (!), like writing everything they can think of on the dial…..all for one reason; to lure in the “consumer” in their fancy boutiques with all the spot lighting shining nicely on the brand new, impeccable finish. They take tool watches and fancy them up, making them less correct for the job. And they don’t care because they are raking it in. Here’s an infallible method to decide whether a watch is a tool or not. Imagine it banged-up. Imagine a gouge out of one lug, a scratched crystal, badly-damaged bezel. Will it look better, or ruined? If the answer is “B”, it is not a tool watch.

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Rolex Yacht-Master 42 White Gold Men's Watch M226659-0002

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– Rolex Real vs Fake – The Ultimate Guide Spotting Them

Rolex real vs fake - the ultimate guide spotting them.

• Christine Ye
• March 13, 2024

Understanding the key differences between a real and fake Rolex is important before spending your hard-earned money on a luxury watch. While some counterfeits are easy to spot, others can be well-designed with the intent to deceive buyers. Rolex is, after all, one of the most counterfeited brands in the world.

Knowing the signs of how to spot a fake Rolex can be particularly helpful when shopping for pre-owned watches. This comprehensive guide outlines several key indicators that distinguish a real Rolex from a fake one. Additionally, comparison photos of a genuine Rolex Submariner 116610LN and a replica are included to provide visual examples of the differences between the quality of the two watches.

Rolex Fake vs Real –  Reference Number

How to Research the Rolex Reference Number

If you want to learn how to distinguish a fake Rolex from an authentic one, a good place to start is researching the reference number . The reference number of a Rolex watch, also known as the model number, contains essential information such as the age of the watch, model, material, and bezel type. This information helps you compare the specific watch with its reference number to ensure that everything matches the description.

Rolex reference numbers can be four, five, or six digits, and sometimes include letters. The length of the reference number indicates the general age of the watch. Four-digit reference numbers indicate vintage Rolex watches, while five and six-digit reference numbers indicate discontinued and modern Rolex watches, respectively. In both five and six-digit reference numbers, the last digit indicates the material of the watch. Below is a chart that explains what material the watch is made of according to the last digit of the 5 and 6-digit model numbers:

• 0 = stainless steel
• 1 = two-tone stainless steel & rose gold
• 2 = two-tone stainless steel & platinum
• 3 = two-tone stainless steel & yellow gold
• 4 = two-tone stainless steel & white gold
• 5 = rose gold
• 6 = platinum
• 7 = 14k yellow gold
• 8 = 18k yellow gold
• 9 = 18k white gold

For instance, a Rolex Submariner reference 116610 denotes a stainless-steel model, while a Rolex Submariner reference 116619 represents a white gold model. Additionally, the second-to-last digit of the reference number indicates the bezel type, although this number is more complex. Certain numbers denote different bezel types for different Rolex watch collections. For example, for a Rolex Sea-Dweller, a 0 as the second-to-last digit means it has a rotating bezel, while for a Rolex Pearlmaster, it signifies a gemstone-set bezel. So, we recommend doing a Google search for your specific model.

Some Rolex reference numbers have alphanumeric codes that include letters at the end. These letters are codes that denote bezel insert colors, primarily for Rolex sports watches. These codes are translations of French descriptors, which determine the letters used as codes for each color. The most common color codes include:

• LN (Lunette Noir) = Black bezel
• LB (Lunette Bleu) = Blue bezel
• LV (Lunette Verte) = Green bezel
• BLNR (Bleu/Noir) = Blue and Black bezel
• BLRO (Bleu/Rouge) = Blue and Red bezel
• CHNR (Chocolat/Noir) = Brown and Black bezel

How to Spot a Fake Rolex with Weight & Materials

To differentiate between a genuine Rolex and a fake one, a helpful tip is to check the weight of the watch. Generally, an authentic Rolex is heavier than a counterfeit one, as it is made of high-quality materials like 904L stainless steel, 18k gold, 950 platinum, or RLX titanium. In contrast, fake Rolexes tend to be made with cheaper materials, making them lightweight and weaker.

Additionally, knowing which material a specific Rolex model is made of can also help spot a fake. For instance, certain models like the Milgauss , Explorer II , and Deepsea have only been produced in stainless steel, and any made with other materials are replicas. Similarly, watches from Rolex’s Day-Date collection are exclusively made with precious metals, specifically gold or platinum, and any made with other materials are likely to be fake.

How to Spot a Fake Rolex Dial

The dial is the centerpiece of any watch and is usually the first thing people notice. On a Rolex watch, the dial is crafted to the highest standards with every detail meticulously placed and in perfect alignment. Watch experts and those familiar with the brand can easily spot any discrepancies, but for those who are less knowledgeable, there are some telltale signs of questionable authenticity to look for on the dial of counterfeit Rolex watches.

The famous Rolex coronet logo is a regal five-point crown that can always be found on the dial of genuine Rolex watches. The crown is typically located at the 12 o’clock position on most classic watches, except for the Day-Date model, where it is located beneath the day window at the 12 o’clock position. For most of Rolex’s professional watches, including the Submariner, Sea-Dweller, GMT-Master, Yacht-Master , Explorer , and Air-King , the crown logo is positioned below the large triangular dial marker at 12 o’clock, except for the Yacht-Master II, where the crown is placed under the countdown indicator on the dial. Therefore, if the watch in question has the crown logo in any other location or is missing the crown logo, it is likely not a genuine Rolex.

Another red flag is any spelling mistakes, crooked or misplaced text, different font style or size, misaligned hour and minute markers, or awkward spacing of features. Rolex watches are exquisitely designed and crafted, with remarkable attention paid to every detail, no matter how small. Therefore, anything that appears to be aesthetically off, even slightly, warrants closer inspection. In the photos below, you can see visible discrepancies on the dials of a real Rolex (left) and a fake Rolex (right).

Side by side comparison of fake and real Rolex Submariner 116610LN dial

• The most apparent difference between the hour markers on the two watches is the material used, which is the first noticeable inconsistency. The hour markers on the counterfeit Rolex appear to be of lower quality than those on the authentic Rolex, and they appear to be sticker-like in appearance.
• The hour markers on the authentic Rolex have even and symmetrical silver borders surrounding their shapes. On the other hand, the hour markers on the Rolex replica have uneven borders around the shapes of almost every marker. This is especially noticeable on the 4 o’clock, 6 o’clock, and 11 o’clock markers.
• There is a visible difference in the silver border on the hands of both watches. The border on the replica is notably thinner than the border around the authentic Rolex’s hands, especially on the hour hands of both watches.
• One crucial authenticity indicator that is hard to capture in photos is the watch’s movement, as indicated by the seconds hand. Genuine Rolex watches feature a seamless, sweeping motion of the seconds hand, whereas on this fake (and many others), the seconds hand moves in a jerky, ticking-like motion as it travels across the dial.
• Rolex incorporates luminescent material, also known as lume, on the dials of some of its watches such as the Submariner to enhance readability and illuminate details in dimly lit conditions, such as during deep diving. This is a distinctive characteristic of Rolex watches, as you can observe it on each hour marker, as well as on the hour, minute, and seconds hands of an authentic Rolex, but it is not present on the replica.
• The absence of lume application can also be detected by the watch’s lack of glow in the dark, which is evident in this counterfeit Rolex as it does not exhibit any luminescent properties.
• The wording font on the replica is different than on the real Rolex in the following ways:
• The lettering on the words “ROLEX” and “ OYSTER PERPETUAL DATE” are less bolded and are noticeably different. For example, the R in “ROLEX” are visibly different between both watches, especially in the upper left corner of the R.
• “SUBMARINER”, “1000 ft 300 m ”, “SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER”, and “OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED” are all written in a noticeably different font on the replica as well.
• Both the font and the placement of “SWISS MADE” at the very bottom of the dial are also visual discrepancies between both watches. On the real Rolex, the words are underneath the 6 o’clock hour marker, whereas on the replica they are separated by the hour marker and written in a different style font.
• The cyclops glass feature at 3 o’clock is supposed to magnify the date number by 2.5x legibility.
• The cyclops glass always protrudes above the crystal, like a bubble—it is never flat and never fitted under the crystal.
• A way to identify a fake Rolex is by observing its date feature. Rolex watches have an instantaneous date display, meaning the date changes precisely at midnight, not gradually. If a Rolex replica shows an in-between date (mid roll) on the dial, it is a telltale sign of a fake since the real Rolex would change the date immediately. This characteristic might not be noticeable unless you have the watch for more than a day, but ideally, you should have already identified the counterfeit before then.

How to Spot a Fake Rolex with Laser-Etched Coronet (LEC) on Glass

• On modern Rolex watches produced after 2001, there is a tiny laser-etched coronet/crown (LEC) on the glass at the 6 o’clock position. This is an additional measure taken by Rolex to stay ahead of counterfeiters and establish another authenticity indicator on their timepieces. The LEC feature is incredibly difficult to replicate because the crown is not simply engraved or etched onto the glass but is instead embedded within it. It is worth noting that while this feature has been incorporated into the entire collection of Rolex watches manufactured from 2001 onwards, the timing of its implementation varies from model to model. Therefore, if searching for this characteristic on a specific Rolex watch, it is advisable to investigate when the LEC feature was added to that particular model.

Rolex Fake vs Real – Laser-Etched Coronet (LEC) on Glass

How to Spot a Fake Rolex Bezel

Rolex watches have various styles, colors, and materials for their bezels. Knowing the basics about Rolex bezels, especially for the watch under scrutiny, can be helpful when checking for authenticity. For instance, fluted bezels on authentic Rolex watches are made of 18k gold. Hence, if you come across a watch with a fluted bezel made of platinum or stainless steel, it is undoubtedly a fake Rolex.

The GMT-Master and GMT-Master II collections have a unique two-tone bezel in different color combinations. Any Rolex watch with a two-tone bezel will have a distinct line dividing the face of the watch horizontally through the numbers 6 and 18 on the bezel markers. If the two colors appear to bleed into each other or the colors split anywhere else on the bezel besides the numbers 6 and 18, then that watch is a fake Rolex.

Additionally, modern Rolex watches made in 2001 and later have a tiny laser-etched coronet/crown (LEC) on the glass at 6 o’clock. This feature is hard to replicate, and its implementation varies across different Rolex models. Therefore, researching when the LEC feature was applied to a specific Rolex model is advisable.

Check out the side-by-side images below to see other significant differences between the real Rolex Submariner and a counterfeit version.

Rolex Fake vs Real – Bezel

• There is a significant difference in the width of the bezels between the two watches. The bezel on the fake Rolex is visibly narrower compared to the bezel on the authentic Rolex.
• When comparing the bezels of the real Rolex and the counterfeit watch, the font on the numbers is noticeably distinct. Specifically, the numbers on the replica bezel appear bolder and thicker compared to the font on the genuine Rolex bezel. One can easily spot this difference by comparing the numbers 2, 4, and 5 on both bezels.
• The lume pip located at the 12 o’clock position on the authentic Rolex bezel is distinguished by a silver lining around it and fits seamlessly within the confines of the triangle marker surrounding it. Conversely, the lume pip on the counterfeit Rolex’s bezel has a larger, thicker border that extends outside the triangle marker’s boundary. Additionally, it lacks lume material, rendering it unable to glow in the dark like the authentic Rolex bezel’s pip.
• On the genuine Rolex, the numbers and markers on the bezel are deeply engraved and have a distinct groove on the surface, whereas the bezel on the counterfeit watch is completely smooth with no groove.
• A real Rolex watch features engravings on the inner ring of its bezel, also known as the “rehaut”. The word “ROLEX” is engraved five times on both the right and left sides, with a tiny Rolex crown logo at the 12 o’clock position, and the watch’s serial number at 6 o’clock. Older Rolex watches may have these details laser-etched instead of engraved, but Rolex started using engravings in 2005 to make them harder to replicate. If the rehaut of a bezel has no engravings or something else engraved on it, it is likely a fake. In the case of this replica, the rehaut has no engravings or etchings and is simply a reflective, mirror-like surface.

How to Spot a Fake Rolex Case

When searching for indications of a counterfeit Rolex, there are various features on the watch case that reveal its authenticity or lack thereof. As previously mentioned, authentic Rolex timepieces are made of the finest quality materials, which is typically the most apparent indication of whether a Rolex watch is genuine or fake. Replicas are usually crafted from inferior and cheaper materials, which frequently manifests in the overall appearance and texture of the watch. Additionally, specifics about the design and form of specific features on a Rolex watch case can serve as signs of its legitimacy, which are illustrated in the comparison photos below.

• The lugs on the genuine Rolex appear thicker and more substantial compared to the skinnier, slender, and tapered lugs on the replica.
• The real Rolex has lugs with a brushed metal surface, whereas the lugs on the replica have a polished metal surface. This contrast is noticeable in both the shine and the texture of the surfaces.
• The authentic Rolex has its serial number engraved between the lugs when the metal bracelet is removed, which is not the case with the counterfeit watch.
• The disparity in the shape of the crown guards is another conspicuous dissimilarity between the two timepieces. The crown guards on the counterfeit watch have a more pointed appearance compared to the genuine Rolex. This difference is evident when viewing the watches side by side or from a profile angle.
• The designs on the winding crowns also differ noticeably. On the authentic Rolex, the markings of three small dots under the crown and the Rolex crown itself protrude outwards, whereas on the counterfeit, the markings are much flatter.

Rolex Fake vs Real – Winding Crown

To clarify, it should be noted that certain older steel and yellow gold Rolex watches with the Twinlock waterproof feature, which provides up to 100 meters (300 feet) of water resistance, do have a small line under the crown. However, the Submariner 116610 model being discussed here is equipped with a Triplock winding crown, which ensures water resistance up to 300 meters (1,000 feet). Triplock winding crowns always have three dots below the coronet symbol, regardless of the watch’s material. Therefore, the incorrect marking on the winding crown of this replica watch clearly indicates that it is not authentic. To help identify other fake Rolex watches, the visual guide below shows the markings on winding crowns for different Rolex models made from different materials and with either the Twinlock or Triplock features:

• The caseback of a watch may often be overlooked, but it can provide clear indicators of its authenticity. Unlike other brands, Rolex does not equip its timepieces with transparent casebacks. Genuine Rolex watches come with full metal casebacks that are fluted and screwed into the case, providing optimal water resistance. Therefore, if a Rolex watch has a transparent caseback, it is undoubtedly a fake. Of course there are a few exceptions, including the Cellini Prince and the new 2023 anniversary model platinum Daytona.
• In general, Rolex watches do not have any logos, text, etchings, or engravings on their casebacks. Therefore, if the watch in question has any such markings on its caseback, it is likely a counterfeit. However, there are a few exceptions, such as if the watch was part of a professional team that participated in a Rolex event and won.
• There is a noticeable difference in the quality of finish on the casebacks of both watches. The genuine Rolex has a much better finish with consistent color of the steel and a smooth brushed surface throughout. On the other hand, the counterfeit Rolex has an inconsistent color with mixed colored metal visible on the caseback. This is further emphasized by the deeper grooves of the brush strokes on the surface.

Rolex Fake vs Real – Caseback

It should be noted that there are some exceptions to the general rule outlined above. For instance, certain Rolex watches such as the Milgauss , Deepsea, vintage Sea Dweller , some gold Lady Datejusts , and military Submariners do have specific patented markings on their caseback. However, in the case of the counterfeit watch being discussed, which is a replica of a non-military Rolex Submariner, there should not be any engravings or markings on the caseback. Particularly not markings that reference a different Rolex watch collection, as is the case with this “Submariner” caseback that references the “ Daytona .” Such blatant inconsistencies are among the most reliable ways to spot a fake Rolex. Additionally, when purchasing secondhand watches, it is possible that the previous owner may have had personal engravings made on the watch. In such cases, it is best to have the watch authenticated by a reputable source to ensure that it is not a counterfeit.

Rolex Fake vs Real –  Bracelet

How to Spot a Fake Rolex Bracelet

A watch’s bracelet can also have a lot of telltale signs of its authenticity, some that are easier to spot than others. The four styles of bracelets by Rolex are Oyster, Jubilee, President, and Pearlmaster, in addition to different strap options, as seen below:

• Upon comparing these two watches, it is apparent that there are a couple of visible differences in the bracelet links of each. In the authentic Rolex, the links are made of brushed metal all around the bracelet, whereas in the fake Rolex, only the outer links are brushed metal and the center links are polished, giving them a shinier appearance.
• The difference in the size and width of the bracelet links is another visible distinction between the two watches. The links on the authentic Rolex are thicker and have a more robust appearance, whereas the links on the replica are noticeably thinner and more slender. As a result, the bracelet of the counterfeit watch is narrower compared to the genuine Rolex bracelet.
• A visible difference between the two bracelets is the length of the clasp. When compared side by side, the clasp on the genuine Rolex bracelet is significantly longer than the clasp on the counterfeit Rolex.
• The position of the Rolex crown on the clasp of each watch is distinct. On the authentic Rolex, the crown is located such that the lowermost part of the crown acts as part of the concealed flip-lock clasp mechanism, serving as a ledge to facilitate opening. On the replica, the entire crown is embedded within the center link, and there is no part of it overhanging the edge as there is on the genuine Rolex. Moreover, the “hidden” flip-lock clasp on the replica is not very concealed and is evidently a separate piece that protrudes further than the rest of the clasp.
• The counterfeit Rolex features two buttons, one on each side of the clasp, which serve as a push-release mechanism. In contrast, the authentic Rolex has no buttons since they are unnecessary to open the clasp, which is instead released using the hidden flip-lock clasp.
• When you open the clasps of both watches, it is evident that the real Rolex’s clasp has an emblem engraving that consists of the word “ROLEX” in the center and the Rolex crown above it. To the right of the emblem, you can find the words “GENEVA” and “SWISS MADE” engraved in small font. On the other hand, the inside clasp of the replica doesn’t have any engravings.

Rolex Fake vs Real – Backside of the Clasp

• It is worth noting that the situation is reversed when it comes to engravings on the back side of the clasps of both watches. Surprisingly, the replica’s clasp can be engraved with the words “STAINLESS STEEL,” while the authentic Rolex’s clasp has no engravings at all. Detecting the fake solely based on this aspect may be a bit more difficult, but the difference between the two can still be discerned.

Trust Your Source

There are numerous tips and indicators for spotting a fake Rolex watch. As the most counterfeited luxury watch brand, the quality of these fake watches has improved to a level previously unseen in the luxury world. This means that counterfeiters have become highly skilled at replicating Rolex timepieces, with some counterfeit watches being almost impossible to detect without the help of highly trained experts. While there are still many obvious tells that can give away a fake Rolex, the increasing amount of sophisticated counterfeits on the market is concerning. It’s important to take the time to carefully inspect any watch in question and have it authenticated by a reputable source, such as a brand authorized dealer, qualified watchmaker, high-end watch shop, or brand service provider.

It’s also crucial to purchase from a genuine, trustworthy, and reputable seller. This is especially important when buying a pre-owned Rolex, as there is more risk involved compared to buying brand new from a retail store. When shopping on online marketplaces, it’s essential to do thorough research on the seller. Look for vetted sources with a solid reputation, and check whether they guarantee the authenticity of their products, offer a warranty with every sale, have a reasonable return policy, and any other information that will increase your trust in the seller. Ultimately, taking these precautions will ensure confidence in your decision to buy an extravagant and expensive watch like a Rolex.

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Rolex Revamp 2024: Here’s What’s Discontinued

Do you happen to have a Rolex Yacht Master II or Datejust with Palm Motif on your hands? Chances are, if you want to capitalize on them, it might be a good time to sell, since Rolex has just announced it’s discontinuing these models

The most anticipated event on every watch enthusiast’s calendar – Watches and Wonders – brought with it, along with a plethora of new launches from both legacy and indie watchmakers  (which you can read all about in our detailed report) , a sweeping discontinuation of certain timepieces. Rolex is one maison that, in line with the time-honored tradition, once again announced the models it will no longer manufacture. 

Here’s an overview of all the discontinued Rolex models:

Discontinued Rolex Yacht-Master II Collection

In 1992, Rolex released the Yacht-Master, a watch that seemed to piggyback on the success of its first nautical-inspired timepiece, the Submariner. This new model boasted several changes, including a larger size of 39.5mm and an etched bezel insert permanently affixed to the bezel. The hands and markers were also increased in size, while the edges were smoothed and rounded for sturdiness and durability - qualities synonymous with all Rolex watches. The triple-lock crown ensured water resistance up to 330 feet. In 1994, two new editions were introduced – a mid-sized 35mm reference for the Asian market and a 29mm version for women. Five years later, Rolex elevated the Yacht-Master's design by introducing a stainless steel and platinum version at the Basel Fair. 

Discontinued Rolex Datejust 36 with Palm Motif and Fluted Dials

The Rolex Palm Motif and Fluted Datejust collections, beloved by watch enthusiasts for their intricate laser-etched dials, have been discontinued. Some speculate that this decision may indicate a waning interest in such ornate timepieces, while others argue it is simply the end of an era for these iconic Rolex models. The former models were dubbed "The Jungle Datejust" for their metallic palm motifs in varying shades of green, creating an asymmetrical and captivating design. The variations of such designs were, of course, nearly endless – the Fluted and Palm dials came also in gold and silver colors with the latter also presented in stunning midnight blue. But with their discontinuation, we bid farewell to this defining era in Rolex's history and only hope for it to somehow resume in new and unexpected ways.

Discontinued Rolex Daytona Le Mans

When the highly-anticipated Rolex Daytona Le Mans was finally revealed in 2023, it was a momentous occasion. Not only was it a rare special edition from the Swiss powerhouse, but it also commemorated the brand's partnership with the legendary endurance race. However, just months after its release, Rolex decided to discontinue the white gold version. Perhaps it was because the watch was created to celebrate the centennial anniversary of Le Mans, which had now passed in 2024. But this unexpected move has left collectors scrambling for the coveted timepiece, and prices on the gray market are sure to skyrocket. To add even more intrigue, Rolex has announced a new yellow-gold version in its place. 

Discontinued Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea

Many of us have caught the yellow gold Deepsea at Watches & Wonders 2024 , which signaled a significant change within their renowned Sea-Dweller collection. The highly-desirable Deepsea will now stand on its own as a distinguished collection, with all previous models bearing the "SEA-DWELLER" name being discontinued. Although the reference number for the stainless steel Deepsea ref. 136660 remains unchanged, all dials released after 2024 will only feature the bold "DEEPSEA" inscription, including the classic black dial and the striking James Cameron blue-to-black gradient. A defining move for Rolex's future in watchmaking.

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List Of Rolex Watches Discontinued At Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024 Including Every Yacht-Master II

As always, new Rolex releases bring the quiet discontinuation of Rolex watches, and Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024 is no different. Here’s a quick look at the watches Rolex discontinued from April 09, 2024.

Rolex Daytona Le Mans 126529LN

One of the most collectible and rare Rolex watches right from the moment when it was released in June 2023 , the Rolex Daytona “Le Mans” reference 126529LN was always destined to be unobtainable for the overwhelming majority of VIP customers of the brand. In a rather shocking development, Rolex drops it from its collection after less than a year, as the Rolex Daytona Le Mans was in production just from June 2023 until April 2024. Basically, it is a Daytona in 18k white gold with a black Cerachrom ceramic bezel with a red “100” marker in honor of the centenary of Le Mans. In other words, the Rolex 126529LN was produced just for the centenary of this legendary race, and no longer. It is back in 18k yellow gold for 2024.

Rolex Datejust 36 126200 & 126233 With A Palm Dial & Fluted Dial

The Rolex Datejust 36 reference 126200 with so-called Palm dials and Fluted dials also got the axe for 2024. These laser-etched dials were beautifully made as they displayed depth and fascinating light-plays between their bright and dark surfaces. They well and truly were a tour de force of Rolex’s in-house manufacturing know-how, and are discontinued after just 3 years in production for the Rolex Datejust 36 Palm dials and Rolex Datejust 36 Fluted dials.

The Entire Rolex Yacht-Master II Collection

It is extremely rare for Rolex to drop an entire collection, and such a development is all the more surprising for a watch fitted with an expensively developed, fully bespoke movement. The Rolex Yacht-Master II is such a watch, as its Rolex 4161 caliber with its programmable countdown regatta chronograph operated through a crown, two pushers, and a Ring Command is as quirky as they could ever get not just in the world of Rolex, but in the world of luxury watchmaking in general. This is to say that we wouldn’t be surprised to see the Yacht-Master II or its 4161 caliber return at some point. The Yacht-Master II was updated a few years ago with the Rolex “Professional” style handset replacing the straight hands that debuted on the piece in 2007, but the collection was otherwise left largely untouched by Rolex, other than dropping the 18k white gold reference 116689 in 2022.

These are the most important and notable discontinuation news of Rolex watches for 2024. We will keep our eyes out for others that might have slipped through, but Rolex axing the laser-etched dials on the Datejust 36, dropping the Yacht-Master II collection in its entirety, and producing the Rolex Daytona “Le Mans” for such a brief period in the brand’s history is big news for 2024. You can learn more at the brand’s website. 

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A Closer Look at What Makes the Iconic Rolex Oyster Perpetual Movement Tick

Much like an exotic car, a mechanical watch is not only admired for its body, but for the engine that drives it. A look under the hood of a Rolex watch will give you a glimpse at the brand’s ‘Perpetual’ movement – a self-winding caliber entirely designed and manufactured by the watchmaking masters at Rolex.

Join us as we take a closer look at how the Rolex Oyster Perpetual movement works, from the earliest self-winding calibers developed by Rolex during the 1930s to the latest generation of in-house automatic movements that were launched after the turn of the new millennium.

Click here for our Ultimate Buying Guide on Rolex watches.

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual

Rolex introduced the Oyster Perpetual in the mid-1930s, pairing two of its most influential innovations together onto one watch, the waterproof Oyster case and self-winding Perpetual movement. The Oyster case hit the market the decade prior in 1926, marking the very first instance of a waterproof case made specifically for a wristwatch. It was, and still remains, the perfect vessel for Rolex’s lineup of self-winding movements, although it has seen some seriously impressive upgrades over the past century to improve its overall water-resistance. The other component, and the topic of this article, is the Perpetual movement, which has also seen its fair share of improvements over the past several decades.

Certified as a chronometer by the COSC (the institute charged with testing Swiss-made watches for accuracy and precision), the Oyster Perpetual Movement is further scrutinized at Rolex’s own laboratories where the movement is tested for optimal precision, rate stability, self-winding capabilities, and power-reserve, all while housed in an Oyster case to mimic real-world scenarios. The rigorous internal and external testing grants this caliber its mark of “Superlative Chronometer” – a designation that means the movement’s performance exceeds the COSC’s rigorous requirements for chronometer-certification.

How the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Movement Works

The “Perpetual” in a Rolex Perpetual Movement refers to the ability of the watch to run on the energy provided by the motion of the wearer’s wrist rather than manual winding. Invented by Rolex in 1931, the Perpetual rotor drives this ability using a centrally-mounted winding weight that is able to rotate a full 360 degrees. The activity of the wrist causes the rotor to rotate back and forth, thus winding the mainspring that powers the watch. While self-winding watches did exist prior to the invention of the Perpetual movement, automatic watches only exist in their current form today because of the ingenuity of Rolex.

A watch’s precision, on the other hand, is dependent on the consistency of its movement’s oscillator, which is made up of a hairspring and a balance wheel. The more steady the swings of the oscillator the more precisely a watch tells time, so manufacturers always strive for new ways to enhance the components of this mechanism. As a result of five years of R&D, in 2000 Rolex created a superior version of a traditional hairspring, which debuted inside the Rolex Daytona movement caliber 4130, the patented Blue Parachrom hairspring – a spring impervious to magnetic fields and up to ten times more resistant to shocks.

Later in 2005, Rolex introduced the patented Paraflex system, a tiny yet robust shock absorber that improves the shock resistance of a Rolex by up to 50%, enhancing the watch’s protection from everyday knocks. By inventing the Parachrom hairspring, Rolex was no longer reliant on the industry standard Nivarox to supply them with their hairsprings, essentially bringing more of the production of their movements in-house to meet their strict standards for perfection.

A New Generation of Oyster Perpetual Movements

At Baselworld 2015, a number of Rolex watches were inaugurated with a new-generation of movements, the Cal. 32xx generation. With improvements on over 90% of their components, these movements resulted in optimized precision and an increased power reserve of up to approximately 3 days, or 70 hours – about 50% longer than previous movements. Featured in these new calibers is the Rolex patented Chronergy escapement – an advanced version of the traditional Swiss lever escapement found in mechanical watches with a more efficient skeletonized design. According to Rolex, modifications to the escapement’s design structure provide a 15% increase in efficiency making way for more power reserve, plus its construction from nickel-phosphorus makes it resistant to magnetic interference. The first of these movements included the calibers 3255, 3285, and 3255.

Inside the current generation of full-size Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches is the no-date equivalent of those movements, the caliber 3230, which debuted in 2020 and replaced the caliber 3130. The caliber 3235 and caliber 3230 movements are nearly identical, with the biggest difference between them being that one has a date mechanism and the other does not. The powerhouse movement also drives the majority of Rolex’s other time-only masterpieces, including the new Explorer 36, No Date Submariner, and the Air-King.

While the caliber 3230 is tucked inside the 41mm and 36mm editions of the current production Oyster Perpetual, the smaller models rely on the caliber 2232, which is impressive in its own right with an innovative Syloxi Hairspring, the same Paraflex shock absorbers, and a 55-hour power reserve. Like calibers 3235 and 3230, the cal. 2232 is chronometer-rated and promises accuracy up to -2/+2 seconds per day.

Parachrom Blue vs. Syloxi Hairsprings

Early hairsprings produced decades ago were far from meeting the standards of today’s watch industry. They were very susceptible to weather variations and magnetic fields because they were constructed from steel. Eventually, other variations followed, promising better anti-magnetism and resistance to temperature fluctuations. However, the modern hairspring as we know it today is a watchmaking marvel, offering unparalleled resistance to all the outside influences that can affect the watch’s ability to keep perfect time.

One of those hairsprings is the blue Parachrom hairspring, which is made from a proprietary alloy produced by Rolex that is highly resistant to changes in temperature along with being entirely antimagnetic. The Syloxi hairspring is an even newer innovation dreamt up by Rolex, making its debut exclusively in the midsize and women’s collections. It’s constructed from silicon and offers similar resistance to shocks, magnetism, and temperature as the Parachrom hairspring. The most significant difference is how the Syloxi hairspring is attached to the balance bridge. Unlike the Parachrom hairspring, which is attached at a single point, the Syloxi variation is fixed to the balance bridge at two points. This design offers improved isochronism compared to the Parachrom hairspring, and is entirely antimagnetic due to being made from a silicon based material. The caliber 3230 utilizes the Parachrom hairspring, while the lady’s caliber 2232 is equipped with the Syloxi hairspring.

The illustrious history of the Oyster Perpetual Movement is an inspiration for Rolex’s watchmakers to continuously push the boundaries of timekeeping excellence. The spirit of innovation is perpetually beating at the heart of Rolex and we look forward to many more technological breakthroughs from this legendary company.

Learn more about the collection by reading our ultimate guide on Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches here.

About Paul Altieri

Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. He is widely considered a pioneer in the industry for bringing transparency and innovation to a once-considered stagnant industry. His experience spans over 35 years and he has been published in numerous publications including Forbes, The NY Times, WatchPro, and Fortune Magazine. Paul is committed to staying up-to-date with the latest research and developments in the watch industry and e-commerce, and regularly engages with other professionals in the industry. He is a member of the IWJG, the AWCI and a graduate of the GIA. Alongside running the premier retailer of pre-owned Rolex watches, Paul is a prominent Rolex watch collector himself amassing one of the largest private collections of rare timepieces. In an interview with the WSJ lifestyle/fashion editor Christina Binkley, Paul opened his vault to display his extensive collection of vintage Rolex Submariners and Daytonas. Paul Altieri is a trusted and recognized authority in the watch industry with a proven track record of expertise, professionalism, and commitment to excellence.

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• / How to Spot a Fake Rolex. The Definitive Guide
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How to Spot a Fake Rolex. The Definitive Guide

What do the Stampings Look Like on a Fake Rolex?

The first step in learning how to spot a fake Rolex watch is to check the stampings on the timepiece. A real Rolex has a precisely-cut serial and model number stamping with solid lines. By comparison, a fake Rolex often lacks the deep, precise lines on the serial and model number stamping. Additionally, all Rolex watches have the iconic crown and model name on the face of the watch. If you want a Day Date Rolex, you now know how to spot a fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day Date:  if the model number isn’t cleanly etched and the Rolex crown doesn’t appear with the words “Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day Date,” you probably have a fake on your hands.

How Do the Hands Move?

Rolex creates top of the line precision watch components, while fake Rolexes tend to use lower-grade components that lack the Rolex stamp on them. Unfortunately, you can’t usually tell the difference in components unless you open the watch up and view the clockwork inside. Luckily, there is one surefire way to identify cheaper components without opening up the watch: check the movement of the hands. A genuine Rolex has smooth movement of its watch hands, while a fake often has jerky movements that mirror other watch types. The precision of a Rolex is especially important for watches like the Yacht Master, which are used for racing purposes, so checking the movement of the hands is essential if you want to know how to spot a fake Rolex Yacht Master.

Font Consistency

An authentic Rolex watch remains consistent in its crafting across the board. This means that the font type on all the text that appears on the watch should look the same. When you consider buying a Rolex Oyster Perpetual, how to spot a fake involves taking note of the consistency of the watch’s design. If you look at pictures of fake Rolexes, you will probably notice that different parts of the watch have slightly different fonts or spacing between different words. This is one of the easiest ways to spot a fake watch, as no amount of damage or wear can change font types. One of the best methods in how to know a genuine Rolex watch is to have a good eye for consistency and sharp attention to detail.

Magnifying Lens

Another trick in how to identify a genuine Rolex watch is to examine the magnifying lens, also known as the cyclops. This small crystal lens magnifies the date on a Rolex watch and always magnifies the number to a factor of 2.5. This is very important in certain watches, such as the Day Date or the Datejust. If you want to know how to spot a fake Rolex Datejust, look at the cyclops first. Fake Rolexes often lack the right magnification level. Additionally, as mentioned above, the font type on the date number may differ from the font used on other engravings and markings on the watch. If you find yourself wondering whether the font or magnification on a watch looks right, take it to a seller or expert who you trust.

Are you considering buying a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona but aren’t sure if you are handling a forgery or not, one of the keys on how to spot a fake Rolex Daytona is to check the weight. Rolex watches, especially cosmograph watches like the Daytona, have a heft to them due to the quality of materials used in their manufacture. A fake watch that somebody is trying to pass off as a genuine Rolex Crystal is likely to be lighter than average. If you have lined up a seller and aren’t sure of the weight of a genuine Rolex box or watch, seek out the aid of a seller that you know offers real Rolexes. You can feel the heft for yourself and then compare it to the potential counterfeit.

Water Resistance

All Rolex watches are designed to resist water to a reasonable depth, and models such as the Rolex Submariner are capable of working perfectly hundreds of meters underwater. A counterfeit Rolex might lack the ability to function properly underwater, especially as the pressure mounts. Unfortunately, people who want to know how to spot a fake Rolex Submariner might not have a good way to test a watch’s water resistance without destroying the possible counterfeit. However, you can still ask your seller about the water resistance and gauge that individual’s response to determine whether there might be some duplicity involved. A watch made with genuine Rolex parts is definitely water resistant as long as it has not been damaged in some way.

Back Casing

With only a few exceptions, the caseback of authentic Rolex watches are usually kept clear of engravings and special features. To determine how to spot a fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch, you can examine the caseback. Some counterfeit watches have a clear back to show off the gears in an attempt to look like an authentic used Rolex. Actual authentic watches of the Rolex brand rarely have a clear back, as this was only used in a few vintage models. Similarly, some counterfeit watches have engravings with Rolex branding in an attempt to look like an authentic Rolex. If you want to figure out how to know if a Rolex is authentic, make sure that the back of the watch is clear or, if it is not, that the seller has a good explanation for any markings.

Embedded Diamonds

Complicating the quest to identify an  authentic Rolex is the fact that some Rolexes have diamond studs embedded on the watch face or band. Genuine Rolex bands do sometimes have diamonds, but they are also authentic diamonds. Some people who sell fake diamond Rolex watches might also use fake diamonds in the body or band. Of course, identifying the authenticity of a diamond can be just as easily as identifying genuine Rolex links on a band. Luckily, this is an area where a reliable seller or jeweler can help you. If you have a chance to get a seller to look over a Rolex Datejust with diamonds, for example, the appearance of fake diamonds would be a huge tipoff that the watch may not be authentic. This can help you determine the difference between a fake vs real Rolex Datejust.

Serial Numbers

In addition to identifying a genuine Rolex date wheel and other factors, you can also check the authenticity of a Rolex by checking its serial number. Every Rolex has a serial number on it, and you can verify the authenticity of Rolex serial numbers through the manufacturer. However, after 2009 Rolex decided to use a string of random numbers to create its serial numbers. This means that the only way to accurately perform a Rolex authentication is to bring the watch to a seller who deals in authentic Rolexes. That individual can tell you how to authenticate a Rolex and can check the specific watch you are looking at, so make sure to consult them for help when needed.

Finding a Reliable Dealer

In the end, the best way to figure out how to tell an authentic Rolex from a fake one is to consult a seller that you know to be trustworthy. This seller probably deals in authentic Rolexes and can help guide you on where to buy authentic Rolex watches if you can’t find what you need with that individual. The seller can also examine any Rolex watch you bring in to check for signs of a fake. To determine whether a particular seller is trustworthy, check customer reviews and examine the watches offered by that seller. In some cases, a seller might be able to show you the exact differences between a real vs. fake Rolex. This helps to provide you with a powerful ally in your quest to find the right Rolex for you.

Finding an authentic Rolex can be difficult, but the search can also lead you to some excellent deals if you take the time to look. Keep your eyes open, use the guidelines above, and seek out the help of a seller who deals in authentic Rolexes. By following this advice, you may be able to get a great deal on an authentic Rolex watch.

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Staying on course

The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40 in 18 ct Everose gold with an Oysterflex bracelet.

The oysterflex bracelet, highly resistant and durable.

The Yacht-Master’s new Oysterflex bracelet, developed by Rolex and patented, offers a sporty alternative to metal bracelets. The bracelet attaches to the watch case and the Oysterlock safety clasp by a flexible titanium and nickel alloy metal blade.

The blade is overmoulded with high-performance black elastomer which is particularly resistant to environmental effects, very durable and perfectly inert for the wearer of the watch. For enhanced comfort, the inside of the Oysterflex bracelet is equipped with a patented longitudinal cushion system that stabilizes the watch on the wrist and fitted with an 18 ct Everose gold Oysterlock safety clasp. It also features the Rolex Glidelock extension system, designed by the brand and patented. This inventive toothed mechanism, integrated beneath the clasp, allows fine adjustment of the bracelet length by some 15 mm in increments of approximately 2.5 mm, without the use of tools.

18 ct Everose gold

An exclusive patent

To preserve the beauty of its pink gold watches, Rolex created and patented an exclusive 18 ct pink gold alloy cast in its own foundry: Everose gold.

Introduced in 2005, 18 ct Everose is used on all Rolex Oyster models in pink gold.

Bidirectional Rotatable Bezel

Timing the distance.

The Yacht-Master’s bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel is made entirely from precious metals or fitted with a Cerachrom insert in high-tech ceramic. The raised polished numerals and graduations stand out clearly against a matt, sand-blasted background.

This functional bezel – which allows the wearer to calculate, for example, the sailing time between two buoys – is also a key component in the model’s distinctive visual identity.

Intense black dial

Exceptional legibility.

Like all Rolex Professional watches, the Yacht-Master 40 offers exceptional legibility in all circumstances, and especially in the dark, thanks to its Chromalight display.

The broad hands and hour markers in simple shapes – triangles, circles, rectangles – are filled with a luminescent material emitting a long-lasting glow.

More Yacht-Master technical details

Reference   126655

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Oyster, 40 mm, Everose gold

Oyster architecture

Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown

Bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel with matt black Cerachrom insert in ceramic, polished raised numerals and graduations

Winding crown

Screw-down, Triplock triple waterproofness system

Scratch-resistant sapphire, Cyclops lens over the date

Water resistance

Waterproof to 100 metres / 330 feet

Perpetual, mechanical, self-winding

3235, Manufacture Rolex

-2/+2 sec/day, after casing

Centre hour, minute and seconds hands. Instantaneous date with rapid setting. Stop-seconds for precise time setting

Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers

Bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor

Power reserve

Approximately 70 hours

Flexible metal blades overmoulded with high-performance elastomer

Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Rolex Glidelock extension system

Intense black

Highly legible Chromalight display with long-lasting blue luminescence

Certification

Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)

Learn how to set the time and other functions of your Rolex watch by consulting our user guides.

Yacht-Master 40

Contact an Official Rolex Retailer

Only official Rolex retailers are allowed to sell and maintain a Rolex watch. With the necessary skills, technical know-how and special equipment, they guarantee the authenticity of each and every part of your Rolex and help you make the choice that will last a lifetime.

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