sailboat racing downwind

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Downwind Tactics For Planing Conditions

• By Carlos Robles
• October 10, 2022

Anytime the wind picks up enough that we get to plane downwind, there’s huge opportunity to make gains. When boats start to plane, differences in speed between a fast and a slow boat could be in excess of 4 knots, or 6 feet per second. In other words, you could gain or lose 300 feet in less than a minute. Therefore, it is important to have in mind the following priorities when planing conditions are in play.

1. Set yourself up for a clean hoist and exit at the weather mark

Mark roundings are where the most gains or losses happen. When you get tangled up with another boat, it’s easy to get stuck sailing below target speed while other boats are planing away at full speed. It is, therefore, important to anticipate the exit and have this conversation with my team (or yourself, if you’re sailing a singlehander) in the last third of the upwind leg. Ask yourself the following questions: Is the top mark going to be busy with traffic, or is the fleet spread out? What’s happening on this upwind beat and what side of the downwind is priority to defend? Is jibe setting an option? It could very well be that a jibe-set will keep you on the favored side of the downwind leg, but also think about staying in clear breeze and how far there wind shadow extends, especially if there’s a long offset leg. Sailing across a long wind shadow might be too big of a price to pay, so assess these factors, make a clear exit plan, and execute it successfully.

If it’s going to be a straight set, look around while you’re on the offset leg. If there’s space and you are not overlapped with boats around you, a clean bear-away and hoisting the kite at a low angle will work. If you are overlapped with boats to windward as you round the weather mark, delay the hoist if necessary and continue sailing on a broad reach across the offset leg. The key here is to make sure the boats to windward are not going to roll you before bearing away. As the leeward boat, you will decide when to put the kite up!

If you’re overlapped with boats to leeward, or if there is a big pack close ahead, holding a high-lane hoist becomes super powerful. I call it the high-road set. Hold for a few seconds and set yourself up to windward of these boats, this becomes very powerful when straight setting and holding a lane is the only option. Boats ahead of you that set early will have a difficult time trying to head up to get to your lane and any little gust of wind will favor this higher lane, allowing you to sail fast all the time.

If the goal is to jibe set or jibe early, make sure you are not overlapped with boats inside you as you round the weather mark. It will be a priority on the offset leg to break this overlap (either by rolling over the top of the boats to leeward or slowing down to let them get ahead in front of you but not overlapped). This will allow you to have the option to jibe at the mark or beat them to the jibe later on the run.

2. Always anticipate the next move

Think ahead because things happen fast at the top of the run and you should always remind yourself about what is coming next. Ask yourself: When are we going to jibe next? Do we want to lead this jibe, or wait and go to the layline? Keep in mind that maneuvers at high speeds are usually costly. So, jibing a few times down the middle of the course does not pay in most cases.

3. Be very confident with your layline judgement

For any boat I sail, I like to pick my references for laylines for each true windspeed. It is important to do this during training. In planing conditions, knowing exactly where the layline is will be crucial. You can use parts of the boat to determine this exit angle. I usually eyeball the downwind mark and try to align it with some part of the boat. For example, if the mark is aligned with the lower shroud in planing conditions, I know the layline is imminent. Make sure you always call the layline from the same exact position onboard so references are trustworthy. A good way to refresh this is by doing this exercise before the start, or on the way to the racecourse when going downwind. Use the race committee boat, a channel marker or any other fixed object as a mark to judge your layline call before the race starts. It is surprising the amount of boats that will fail to judge this correctly, opening up huge passing opportunities, especially at the bottom of the downwind leg.

4. Prioritize pressure over shift

If you want to plane, you’re looking for dark-water spots, so the goal is always to pick a good lane and make sure you jibe into dark spots. On gusty days, a good trick to know when to jibe to stay in pressure is by eyeballing your exit angle on the opposite jibe. Will there be dark water there? Maybe waiting to jibe another 30 seconds will keep you in more wind for longer.

5. Set yourself up to plane into the weather mark

Just like at the upwind mark, the same concepts apply when rounding a gate or a leeward mark. Again, assess the situation based on traffic around you, clean breeze and wind pressure. If you’re planing, which is the goal, you want be able to hold that speed for as long as possible. So, often it’s better to take the less favored gate mark as long as it keeps you in clean wind, clear of wind shadows, and in less traffic, which will allow for a better rounding in more wind, getting your team to upwind target speed in a shorter time.

About Carlos Robles

Robles, Born in Barcelona, Spain in 1995 is a 27-year-old sailor based in the USA. Son of a Spanish father and a Brazilian mother, Carlos was introduced to sailing at age 5 by his dad in their 30 foot family boat. From being part of the Spanish Sailing Team since the age of 9 and later on the Brazilian Olympic team, the passion to become a re-known professional sailor was always his primary focus. At his young age Carlos’s resume includes three World Championships and a European Championship in the 29er class and an Olympic Campaign in the 49er class representing Brazil, where he became North American Champion in 2016. Since transitioning into professional sailing in late 2019, Carlos is already a two-time North American Champion and European Silver Medalist in the J7/0 class, he finished second at the Melges 24 World Championships this year and second again at the J/111 North Americans. He also enjoys going offshore in bigger teams, racing around Europe in 2021 in the Volvo 65 class and finishing second at the Newport to Bermuda Race in the Pac 52 class this year. You can find him at @carlosrobleslorente and on Facebook as Carlos Robles.

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Downwind Sailing - 3 Fundamental Skills

The downwind leg of a sailboat race offers some of the greatest opportunities for overtaking. In downwind sailing, there was once a time when sailors simply let out the sails and took it easy, relying on the wind and waves to propel the boat forward. Olympic legend from Denmark, the four-time gold medallist Paul Elvstrom changed all that when he started really ‘working’ his Finn dinghy down the waves, and starting ‘pumping’ the mainsail. Ever since then, sailors have pushed their boats harder and harder downwind. Here we’ll look at some of the fundamentals of downwind sailing.

Optimal wind flow across the sails in downwind sailing

The great thing about sailing downwind is that even if you do nothing and let the sails flap, the wind will push you further downwind. Unlike sailing into the wind where you really have to know the fundamentals of sailing to get the boat to move upwind, downwind you really don’t have to be that skilled to get the boat moving in the right direction.

Let’s say you’re sailing a basic singlehanded dinghy like an Optimist, Laser, ILCA or something similar. If you point the boat directly downwind and let the sail out to 90 degrees, the boat will move reasonably well through the water because you’ve got maximum projected area catching the wind. You’re treating the sail as a windbreak, the telltales maybe stalled, but you don’t care because you’re sailing the shortest distance from A to B.

In downwind sailing, even on a fairly slow boat like a Laser, it’s always faster to generate airflow across the sail. Keep the boom at 90 degrees, don’t adjust the sheeting. But now luff up or bear away by the lee until you can see the telltales start to stream horizontally across the mainsail. Even though you’re not sailing downwind directly, and potentially travelling a greater distance through the water, the increased efficiency of the sail will more than justify the extra distance with higher boatspeed.

Observe an Olympic fleet of Lasers/ILCAs during downwind sailing, and you'll notice the dramatic steering by sailors, initially sailing by the lee, then slightly headed up, and returning to sailing by the lee again, all while avoiding sailing directly downwind.

Surfing the waves in downwind sailing

Are you sailing faster than or slower than the waves? Laser Olympic Champion from Great Britain, Paul Goodison, says this is a crucial question to ask yourself when sailing downwind.

Slower than the waves?

If the wind is light and you’re going slower than the waves: look behind you and search for the highest bit of the wave to give you a push before it disappears underneath the boat and out in front of you. You’re looking for the biggest push that the wave will give you. Look to either side of you and constantly search for the best wave to give you a helping hand. Luff up or bear away, whatever takes you towards the best part of the wave.

Faster than the waves?

If the wind is stronger, perhaps even strong enough to get your boat up and planing, everything changes. Now, if you’re going faster than the waves, you’re looking for the lowest ‘on ramp’ to the wave in front of you. This time your wave focus is always looking forward and to either side, either luffing or bearing away to find the lowest, easiest part of the wave to catch the waveset in front of you. Once you’ve broken through to the next wave, no time to relax! Now you’re looking for the next on-ramp to the next wave, and so on until the leeward mark.

Aim for the gust

Another factor that you need to keep in mind all the time is where is the strongest wind behind you? If you see more wind coming down one side of the course, steer in that direction to pick up the gust as early as possible. Using a wind sensor can help you identify the direction of the gusts more accurately. Once you’re in the gust, steer to ride the stronger breeze as long as possible, even gybing if you have to.

Sailing with spinnakers and asymmetrics in downwind sailing

So far we’ve been focusing on the dynamics of downwind sailing in slow, conventional boats. Much of the same principles apply to faster boats, but there are some big differences too. Which is why we’ll talk about those in other blog posts.

Downwind sailing: putting it all together

Let’s remind ourselves of the three key factors in downwind sailing we’ve talked about in this post: - Creating airflow across the sail - Steering for the best part of the wave - Aiming for the strongest breeze

Put these three dynamics together and you’ve got the makings of good downwind speed. It can seem like a dark art to begin with. So much of good downwind pace is about ‘feeling’ the boat, ‘feeling’ the waves. That only comes with a lot of practice and time on the water. Once you’ve got that feel, you’ll have a superpower that will supercharge your performance when sailing downwind. It’s one of the best ways to come back from a bad start or first beat. And overtaking multiple boats with superior downwind sailing speed is one of the greatest experiences in sailboat racing. Watch our webinars Try out some of the tips and tricks we’ve outlined in this article. Notice what works and what doesn’t. Don’t be afraid to experiment with new ideas in your sailing training. There’s a lot more race-winning info in our series of Webinars. Join in (for free) with Sailmon’s live webinars where we have some of the very best sailors in the world sharing their go-faster tips with the audience from around the world. Even if you can’t make it to the live session, all the recordings are on Sailmon.com

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Mastering Sailboat Racing Tactics: A Winning Approach

By: Zeke Quezada, ASA Sailing Races

Sailboat racing demands a unique blend of skills and expertise. The dynamic nature of racing, with its ever-changing winds and currents, requires sailors to excel in various aspects to secure victory. One of the biggest challenges is dealing with the fluid playing field upon which we play.  At North U, experts understand that sailboat racing success is built on a pyramid comprising Boat Handling, Boat Speed, and Tactics, with Tactics reigning supreme at the pinnacle.

Building the Foundation: Boat Handling and Boat Speed

Before delving into the intricacies of racing tactics, it’s crucial to lay a solid foundation. Boat Handling forms the base of the pyramid, emphasizing the importance of mastering the art of sailing. Without proficient boat handling skills, even the best tactics would falter. Next in line is Boat Speed, a universal requirement across all forms of racing. Whether it’s bicycles, bobsleds, or sailboats, speed is the essence of victory in any race.

Reaching the Summit: Racing Tactics

Atop the Racing Pyramid stands Tactics, the ultimate decider in the world of sailboat racing. Once you’ve honed your boat handling and achieved exceptional speed, mastering tactics becomes the key to clinching victories. Tactics, in its broadest sense, encompasses Strategy and Tactical execution, each playing a pivotal role in the race.

Understanding Strategy and Tactics

Strategy is the overarching plan that revolves around wind, wind shifts, and current. It is an overall gameplan detailing how a sailor would navigate the course independently while factoring in the complex interplay of natural elements. On the other hand, Tactics involve the practical implementation of the strategy and the adept handling of other boats in the race. Understanding and adhering to Racing Rules are part of Tactics, as the rules dictate your rights and obligations as you deal with other boats.

General Tactical Tips: 

• Craft a Comprehensive Strategy: Formulate a game plan based on your expectations of the wind’s behavior. A well-thought-out strategy provides a roadmap for your race.
• Get a Good Start: While a perfect start is ideal, it’s not mandatory for victory. Focus on launching at full speed from the starting line, ensuring you have clear air near the favored end. A strong start sets the tone for the race.
• Chase the Wind: Seek out areas with more wind and navigate your boat towards these pockets. Sailing in favorable wind conditions gives you a significant advantage over competitors.
• Embrace Speed: Sailing at maximum speed is a game-changer. Position your boat in a way that allows you to maintain top speed throughout the race. Sometimes, the simplest strategy is the most effective.
• Master the Shifts: Tacking and jibing strategically based on wind shifts is crucial. Upwind, tack when you’re headed away from the mark and sail on the lifts that push you towards it. Downwind, jibe when lifted away from the mark and sail on the headers, guiding you in the right direction.

Sailboat racing tactics are the culmination of strategic planning, meticulous execution, and adaptability to the ever-changing elements. By mastering the art of strategy and tactical maneuvers, sailors can elevate their racing performance. 

Ready to Become a Master?

Choose from among American Sailing’s many resources to help you improve your racing — from online courses, to textbooks, to week-long events, you can choose one or all to upgrade your sailing racing skills.

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Learn more about how to form winning racing strategies at the Racing Strategy, Tactics and Rules Online Class. This 4-session series hosted by Bill Gladstone starts October 17, 2023.

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How to pick the best downwind sail

• Rachael Sprot
• August 17, 2022

How to set up your boat for smooth, stress-free downwind sailing and how to pick the best downwind sail: Rachael Sprot examines the options

For the coastal sailor, upwind sailing skills are critical: there’s nothing like a lee shore to focus the mind on tacking angles and leeway. For the ocean sailor the challenges are VMG, handling swell and avoiding a crash gybe, but ongoing developments in hull, rig, sail and hardware design have generated huge variations in how we do this. There’s a confusing array of kit and tactics to choose from, so it’s important to spend time on research before spending money on equipment to ensure you get the best downwind sail and setup for your needs.

The first rule of any big decision is to know yourself, your boat and your crew. Neil Mackley, of North Sails, explains: “The thing I most enjoy is sitting down with people and finding out about them. Are they comfortable handling a pole? Are they happy working on the foredeck or would they prefer to manage things from the cockpit? How much stowage space do they have?”

When it comes to the boat, one of the most important metrics is the efficient downwind sailing angle. Broadly speaking, light, flat-bottomed, modern yachts will sail much faster on a reach than on a run. Comparing the new Swan 48 with its predecessors illustrates these changes: the current model is 14% faster on a heading of 120° TWA than 150° TWA. The previous generations only have a 7% difference.

A spinnaker is an essential part of many tradewind cruisers’ sail wardrobe. Photo: Tor Johnson

Scrutiny of the polars for the 1995 Frers Hallberg-Rassy 46 gives a similar picture. When flying a spinnaker in 14 knots it makes 7.1 knots on a TWA of 165° and 8.4 knots on a TWA of 120°. The extra 1.3 knots accumulate to a 400-500-mile gain over a transatlantic passage , but the 45° difference in angle will cost far more in extra distance.

Heavy-displacement, traditional cruisers won’t make exponential gains by reaching. “Wherever possible I run the data through a velocity prediction program to find out where the sweet spot is,” Mackley says, “and for most cruising boats it pays to sail deep.”

Another consideration is how much you’re prepared to use the engine. The east-west transatlantic route is often light airs to begin with and reliable 20-knot tradewinds building through the passage. If the tradewinds are well south, do you carry enough fuel to motor to find them? Weight is a vicious circle: the heavier the boat the slower it is in light airs… To break the cycle you need a sail which can get you moving in under 10 knots of wind, but that may be a specialised sail with a narrow window of operation.

Symmetric spinnakers

“For a transatlantic crossing from Europe to the Caribbean where there’s a high proportion of deep angles, it’s hard to beat a symmetric spinnaker,” says Peter Kay of OneSails. Symmetric spinnakers are the traditional solution to running and they’re still a truly effective option. The pole brings the sail area out from behind the mainsail enabling wind angles of 165° or more.

Weather guru Chris Tibbs flying a symmetric spinnaker on an Atlantic crossing. Photo: Paul Wyeth

There are significant drawbacks, though. The pole work is labour intensive and tiring for a small crew. A 60ft boat flying a symmetric kite will need almost 200m of line for the pairs of sheets and guys. Add in an uphaul and downhaul and there’s a lot going on in the cockpit.

Reaching performance is limited. Although you can set the pole well forwards, you’ll normally need a jockey pole to push the guy clear of the shrouds and stanchions and a running sail will be cut too deep to work well on a reach.

“Although the spinnaker is one of the best tools for a transatlantic, most people don’t go for them because once you’ve arrived on the other side they’re less versatile,” Kay continues. Andy Tarboton of Elvstrom agrees, pointing out that a spinnaker’s broad shoulders puts “more sail high in the sky, which can exacerbate rolling”.

Asymmetrics are usually flown from a bowsprit or the bow roller. Photo: Jean-Marie Liot

Asymmetric spinnakers

Removing the complexity of the pole, an asymmetric spinnaker is flown on a short sprit or the bow roller. Also known as gennakers and cruising chutes, there’s a huge array of asymmetric spinnakers on the market, with an equally confusing array of names. “Asymmetric describes a whole range of styles and performance envelopes,” explains Kay, “from something trying to be a genoa right through to something trying to be a spinnaker.” They all have one major advantage though, which is the ease of sail handling, making them the obvious choice for short-handed crews.

A running asymmetric can be designed to achieve very broad wind angles, almost comparable with those of a symmetric spinnaker. The luff of a running sail will rotate around the forestay as the sheet’s eased, giving wind angles approaching 165° TWA.

If you want to be able to furl the sail though, you’ll need something which is flatter cut and more of a reacher. “Realistically, you’re limited to angles of about 135-145° for sails on furlers, depending on sea state,” explains Mackley, “and then you’re covering a lot of extra distance.”

Oxley parasailers maintain their own shape without the need for a pole.

Parasailers

A sail which attempts to solve the compromise between reaching and running is the parasailer. It looks like a symmetric spinnaker with a pressure relief valve, but the mechanics behind it are very different. A large panel is removed from the upper part of the sail and a paraglider-style wing is suspended in its place. According to designer of Oxley sails, Ralf Grösel, this does several things: it creates lift, it gives the sail structure (similar to a soft batten), and it dampens the rolling motion that conventional spinnakers can generate deep downwind. The opening also acts as a vent, taking the bite out of gusts.

The wing lends structural support to the overall shape so you don’t need a pole. A parasailer can be flown in front of the boat like a symmetric or from the bow like an asymmetric.

There are two control lines on each clew: one running aft to stop the sail pulling forwards, and one running down to midships to counteract the lifting action of the wing. Ideally it is used without the mainsail as the wing performs better in an uninterrupted airflow. This will also help to keep the helm light.

A wing sail is quite an investment and will probably cost more than a single sail, but they should work for a wide range of wind strengths and sailing angles. “It’s like you’re getting two sails in one; a reacher and a downwind spinnaker,” says Grösel.

Handling-wise, a parasailer is a sheep in wolf’s clothing and, other than price, its main detraction is that it won’t deliver as much raw power as a standard kite. If you’re looking for something forgiving, it’s a serious contender.

A double tradewind sail is flown goosewinged but set on a furler. Photo: Shahid Hamid

Tradewind sails

Another slightly left-field option is the loose-luffed, double headsail, such as North Sails’ TradeWind sail, or Elvstrom’s Bluewater runner. Made from stretchy nylon like a spinnaker, but cut more like a large genoa, the pair of free-flying headsails are set on a furler making them easy to douse. They’re designed to be flown in a goose-wing configuration, with the windward sail set on a pole and the leeward one flying off the end of the boom.

It’s ideal for trundling down the rhumbline – known as the 180 freeway, says Mackley. “The rig is much more balanced. When you’ve got a mainsail and headsail up the forces are acting on the boat in different places. With the TradeWind sail you’re being towed from the stemhead.”

Article continues below…

Downwind developments: The latest offwind sails for faster tradewind crossings

These can transform cruising yachts, giving them sufficient power to sail in light airs when previously crews would have been…

How to sail the ARC: Chris Tibbs on how to cross the Atlantic downwind

Meteorologist Chris Tibbs offers some pointers on downwind sailing...

After arriving, you can link the tacks together to create a single sail for light airs’ reaching up to about 100° TWA. The drawback is they’re not suitable for confined waters and are more costly because of the necessary furling equipment, and the fact there are two sails instead of one. The furler could be shared with a Code sail, however. Being made from lightweight polyester they are also no more squall-proof than a spinnaker.

A poled-out headsail is consistently rated the most stable and stress-free downwind rig by ARC crews. It has a wide angle of effectiveness, from a dead run up to about 140°. From a safety perspective it’s a forgiving configuration: if you round up the headsail simply backs, which can be remedied by bearing away again. Dacron can cope with most weather that the Atlantic can throw at you so you won’t feel quite as vulnerable to squalls.

Most headsails can be poled out, though you want to keep the sail flat to reduce flogging in swell so a large genoa might have to remain partially furled. The key is to keep the pole and the sail independent of one another by giving the pole a guy which is separate to the headsail sheet.

Poled out headsails, whether in combination with the mainsail on the other side or another headsail, are rated as the most stable of downwind rigs. Photo: TimBisMedia

The headsail sheet needs leading to the end of the pole and routing aft. A snatch block attached with a strop or soft shackle to the beak works well. The sheet lead will be longer than normal so you might need to use a spinnaker sheet instead of your standard headsail sheets. Depending on the height of the clew, this can be hard to reach once the sail is up or furled, so needs planning.

Once the pole is braced into position, it’s a case of unfurling the sail to leeward, heading on a deep run and gybing the headsail across to the pole, being careful to quickly take up tension on the new sheet to prevent the sail from wrapping around the forestay. Position the pole at clew height and flatten the sail as much as possible.

To furl the sail, ease the sheet and furl it or, to reduce the load on the furler, gybe it across to leeward and furl it behind the main. Because it’s independently set, the pole can be left in position while the sail is furled if you need to manoeuvre or ride out a squall. Once the wind exceeds 18-20 knots most cruising boats will make good speed under this configuration.

Sailing wing on wing on the Oyster 575 Angels’ Share. Photo: TimBisMedia

Another variation for vessels with twin grooves in the forestay foil is to set two headsails and no mainsail. One can be set on the pole and a second sheeted to the end of the boom, which needs to be braced out using the preventer. It’s a bit of a performance to rig and de-rig, but once up it’s a stable rig which works from broad reach to broad reach. Since there’s no work involved in gybing, it could be a great short-handed solution.

Although not technically downwind sails, Code sails are free flying headsails for close reaching in light airs. They do a similar job to a big genoa so are useful on yachts with fractional rigs and small foretriangles, and are popular on multihulls. There is a place for them when cruising, especially if you’re keen not to resort to the engine when the wind is light. For example, OneSails’ Flat Furling Reacher or FFR is a cross between a Code 0 and a genoa, with a range of 50-130°. It fills in the gap between a headsail and a deep running asymmetric so is a useful addition to the sail wardrobe but is unlikely to play a big role in a tradewind crossing.

A big light airs sail for a big boat: a Jeanneau Yacht 60 reaching under code sail. Photo: Gilles Martin-Raget

Headsail handling: Furlers

Spinnaker handling has been revolutionised by furlers, allowing the sail to be doused from the cockpit. Continuous line furling technology has developed across from Code 0s but with one key difference, spinnakers are better furled from the top and not the bottom. On a Code 0-style furler the tack is fixed to the furling drum, on a top-down furler the tack is free to swivel.

The furling motion on a top-down furler is transferred to the head of the sail via a heavy duty anti-torsion cable. Furling a spinnaker this way is much more effective as the sail cloth locks down on itself making it less prone to spilling open.

The OneSails Integrated Furling Structure sail uses continuous fibre technology to replace the anti-torsion cable. Photo: OneSails

There are also reaching spinnakers with luff cables built into the sail, and more recently, ‘cableless’ furling sails which have a structured luff using laminate technology, micro-cables woven into the sail or soft luff cords. Removing the anti-torsion cable saves weight and makes the sail easier to handle, but it might not furl so well in sub-optimal conditions. The systems with a torsion cable will probably cope better when you’re caught off guard.

The advantages of a furling spinnaker for short-handed crews are obvious. Not only do they make a single-handed spinnaker douse from the cockpit possible but they also reduce the volume of the sail, making it easier to stow.

However, there are drawbacks. Most furling sails will be too flat to perform well on deep angles. Sails with an external luff cable will do better than those with inbuilt cables because they’ll be able to project around the forestay more, but you still can’t have a proper, broad-shouldered runner on a furler.

It’s tempting to leave a furled spinnaker up to sit out a squall, but that’s not recommended: even ‘locking’ furlers are not totally reliable. If you do decide to leave one up, Neil Mackley suggests using a soft shackle or carabiner to secure the drum. Be aware that most spinnakers also won’t have UV protection.

Spinnakers are easiest to douse top down with a snuffer. Photo: Richard Langdon

Headsail handling: Snuffers

Getting a spinnaker down is always the hardest part of the process. Snuffers have been around since the 1980s when French designer Etienne Giroire refined the DIY socks which solo sailors such as Eric Taberly were using.

Giroire realised that the lines for raising and lowering the sock needed to be contained within a separate sleeve to prevent them from tangling with the sail. He also noted that the two control lines had very different jobs: the line for pulling the sock up can be light weight because once the sail starts to fill, the snuffer practically raises itself. The line for pulling the sock down needs to be strong and of twist-free construction. He went on to found ATN, which has sold over 30,000 snuffers. The oval plastic mouth has been replaced by a canvas hoop for larger yachts, while some manufacturers now offer inflatable rings to make stowage easier. Other than that, the design has changed little over the years.

The one drawback is that they require someone on the foredeck to heave down on the sleeve, which can be hard work in high winds. A ratchet block on the deck gives a bit more control over the down line. Bearing away and sheeting in will blanket the sail, and – if that still isn’t enough – you can blow the tack and the sail will flag behind the main.

Snuffers can be retrofitted to most sails including big symmetrics. They are a bit less elegant than furlers, but much more economical and a bit less tricksy.

No system is foolproof, and both snuffers and furlers can fail. If they do, you need to be able to drop the spinnaker conventionally. Make sure that you’re all clear on how you would do it on your boat.

Regular rig inspections are essential on downwind passages. Photo: Tor Johnson

When it comes to downwind sailing, the only thing most people can agree on is that a poled-out headsail is the bread and butter. What you choose to add on top of that is up to you and will depend on variables such as budget, crew, boat, and other cruising plans. Even with a perfect sail set-up, sea state can make it impossible to hold an optimum course – as last year’s ARC participants found when a nasty cross swell developed.

Very few sails can deliver both reaching and running functions, apart from the parasailer and ‘tradewind’ sail, neither of which are high-performance options.

Elvstrom’s Andy Tarboton notes that the most common choice for people taking a single sail is somewhere in the middle ground, such as a mediumweight asymmetric. Peter Kay at OneSails would choose a deep running asymmetric spinnaker, if he could only have one, and a FFR (Flat Furling Reacher) if he could have two. North Sails’ Neil Mackley was drawn to the symmetric spinnaker: “It’s a very efficient sail downwind, but because of the pole it’s a hard one to have in the inventory.” The tradewind and a Code sail would be a versatile combination for more conservative cruising.

Understanding the sail’s capabilities and your own limitations will make for efficient sailing. Work out where your priorities lie on a scale of fun to comfort and ask an experienced sailmaker to narrow down the options.

If you enjoyed this….

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Which is the best way to sail downwind?

• Chris Beeson
• August 12, 2015

Poled-out genoa, spinnaker or cruising chute? Chris Beeson finds out which to use to sail downwind, when and why

Which, of the poled-out genoa, spinnaker and cruising chute boats, offers the best way downwind for you? Credit: Colin Work

Downwind cruising can offer some of the most relaxing sailing of the season. Just ease the mainsheet, pole out the genoa, engage autopilot, mix a drink and let the miles tick away as a cooling breeze rolls across the transom. However, with all that time on your hands, the mind can start to wander.

You might start wondering, if progress is a little slow, whether you would be better off digging the spinnaker out of its home in the forepeak? Would the bothersome cat’s cradle involved in putting it up and the tricky business of gybing, potentially perilous for a couple, pay off in time saved? Or would rolling make life too uncomfortable? Perhaps you have a cruising chute? Would sailing the angles downwind be quicker than a spinnaker running dead downwind, even if it does involve more activity? If you stick with your poled-out genoa, how much longer, if at all, will the trip take?

These are questions that any cruising sailor might ask, but what is the answer? The likelihood of a boat identical to yours sliding past with a different downwind set-up, offering a direct comparison, is seriously remote, and two identical boats with two different set-ups: all but impossible.

How do we find out?

We spoke to Sunsail, which very kindly agreed to loan us three identical Beneteau F40s from its racing fleet in Port Solent. Each boat would be crewed by two, with a third onboard to take pictures and make notes.

Each boat would fly a different downwind rig and sail in the same wind on the same day to settle the issue. The criteria used to select the best downwind rig were speed, comfort and hassle.

The plan was to check wind direction on the day and set a distant waypoint dead downwind. The boats would start in a line, and the distance to waypoint was noted. After sailing downwind for a set period, the distance to waypoint would be noted again to measure how far down the track the boats had got.

On the day, the wind was forecast to back from NW to W, and remain quite light at around 5-10 knots. With a knot of ebb tide under us, the apparent wind would reduce still further. It was also a baking hot day so a sea breeze looked certain to back the little wind we had even more. The upshot was that we noted our start position, our finish position and any course changes, and simply sailed downwind until the answer became obvious.

How to avoid the spinnaker death roll

You can reduce roll but if you find yourself in this situation, just release the spinnaker halyard

The main peril of sailing downwind in a breeze is rolling. It may start gently but within seconds you can be rolling from rail to rail and a moment later she rolls too far, the rudder loses grip and the boat lays down beam on under a tattoo of angry nylon.

There are a few key ingredients to rolling. Conditions may be gusty, and there’ll likely be too much wind for the sail, which you should have dropped by now. Waves are probably a factor too. If there is too much twist in the main, a side force is generated at the top of the mast that can begin the roll. As she rolls, the spinnaker rolls from side to side and its centre of effort moves much further outboard, exacerbating the situation.

You can always head up a point or two, away from dead downwind, to reduce roll, but if you need to head dead downwind, you can control the situation by using plenty of vang to flatten the mainsail’s leech.

To stop the spinnaker rolling about, ease the pole forward a touch to move its centre of effort closer the centreline, and strap it down by lowering the pole and hauling the tweakers, or ‘twings’, down to deck level, effectively moving the spinnaker sheet’s ‘car’ position forward.

If you do find yourself in the dramatic final act of a death roll, beam on and going sideways with the rail under, just release the spinnaker halyard (this is why it’s important to make sure halyards are always flaked properly). The boat will pop upright and you can start recovering the spinnaker you should have dropped earlier. Clever cruisers will drop the spinnaker early if the wind builds.

Without a snuffer, a pre-rigged tack release line should defuse the situation quickly

If you have a snuffer to tame a spinnaker, great. If you don’t, before you hoist, rig a quick release line from the inboard end of the pole to the guy’s snap shackle. Pull it and the tack releases, leaving the sail to flap in the main’s lee. Just haul in using the lazy guy or sheet.

Before you hoist, rig a quick release line from the inboard end of the pole to the guy’s snap shackle

Poled-out genoa

A poled-out genoa is many sailors’ preference for sailing downwind and needs no additional canvas

In many ways this is the default set-up. Most yachts already have a mainsail and a genoa or jib, and if there’s enough breeze, the boat goosewings downwind with the main on one side and the genoa on the other. No extra kit or expense involved, so it’s perfect! Or is it?

The problem with goosewinging is that it’s a fragile set-up. If winds are light, the jib will collapse on the centreline and slat about. This is both slow and expensive, as slatting damages sails. If there is enough breeze to fill the sail, it has lots of depth but what you need is area – a flat sail to catch as much breeze as possible. If there’s plenty of wind but its direction isn’t absolutely stable, or the boat is rolling, again the jib collapses but this time refills with a rig-shaking crack.

The solution is to push the genoa’s clew out so that the foresail is flat and ideally perpendicular to the wind. The sail catches maximum breeze and it can’t collapse. If you’re goose-winging, try prodding the genoa’s clew out with an extended telescopic boathook – see how the sail area increases.

How to set up

There are some in the Yachting Monthly office who have simply stuffed a boathook into the clew and lashed the inboard end to the shroud. Crude perhaps, but it can be effective.

The recommended options are either a whisker pole, usually light weight and telescopic to some extent, or a spinnaker pole. Both attach to the mast inboard and a sheet outboard, up- and downhauls and, ideally, an afterguy to stabilise the pole.

As our Sunsail F40 had a spinnaker pole, we set that up. We decided not to clip the outboard end to a genoa sheet as it hampers any emergency manoeuvre – you can’t tack with a pole on the sheet.

Instead we tied a third sheet, or afterguy, to the clew, ran it back through the pole end (a block lashed to the pole end would chafe less) to a block on the aft quarter, which gave us a better sheeting angle than the genoa sheet cars allowed. This gave the pole three-point stability, and if we needed to head upwind in a hurry, to recover a man overboard perhaps, the sheet could just be cast off and the pole left in place, leaving us in full control of the genoa.

As the wind builds, the unique advantage of this set-up is that you can reef the genoa to reduce sail area. The mainsail will long since have been dropped but you can sail on under headsail alone, taking in a few more rolls as required.

This involves a trip forward. We tripped the pole from its port gybe and lowered the outboard end onto the foredeck. Then the third sheet was unreeved, leaving the boat conventionally goosewinged, led through the pole end and back outside the lifelines to the block on the other aft toerail and onto the primary winch. Hoist the pole on the opposite side, gybe the main, haul in on the afterguy, then adjust the pole’s lines until it’s stabilised. All in all, gybing took about five minutes.

1 With a third sheet already bent onto the genoa clew, Mark prepares the pole for port gybe

2 The third sheet is through the pole end, uphaul and downhaul are rigged, ready for launch

3 With the pole height set, Mark hauls on the third sheet to unfurl the genoa

How did it go?

We had our spinnaker pole already rigged with the inboard end slotted into the mast cup and the outboard end resting on the pulpit. That was easy, no-nonsense prep. With the afterguy clipped into the end of the pole for a port gybe set, we hauled it and unfurled the genoa until the pole end reached the clew, then strapped the pole down using up- and downhaul and afterguy.

There’s not enough wind to fill the sail but it’s set and ready to catch the slightest zephyr

We were off. Well, sort of – we made 3.3 knots over the ground with the wind 3.1 knots apparent. Our problem was, squared right off, we were not generating any apparent wind, or so little as to make no difference. We had only a minimal feel of steerage, but we retained full control and held a good course dead downwind.

The cruising chute boat sails shallow angles in light airs, so progress is slow

At first we made ground over the asymmetric boat by holding a straight course: she had been 50 yards ahead, but by the time she came back on port gybe she was 50 yards astern of us.

Meanwhile the spinnaker boat pulls well clear and sails deeper angles

Then the wind backed 45 degrees, freshened a touch, and had us sailing east instead of south-east, our advantage evaporated and even though our speed over the ground went up to 5.1 knots, the asymmetric boat was 200 yards ahead of us and the symmetric boat remained a quarter of a mile ahead.

Gybing was a controlled business, not a tremendous ordeal for two, and would have been quicker if we hadn’t rigged the afterguy, but it was the seamanlike thing to do. That aside, we could happily have switched on the autopilot and watched the world go by.

This was only slightly more involved than furling a genoa. We released the afterguy, hauled on the furling line and that was that. Then the only thing left to do was to ease the pole uphaul, unreeve the afterguy and lower the inboard end of the pole.

Symmetric spinnaker

The spinnaker is almost three times the size of the genoa, and it showed in speed

A symmetrical spinnaker is used as both an aerodynamic sail when reaching, with air flowing across it like a foil and creating lift, and also as a windjammer, simply blocking the wind when heading deeper and dead downwind.

There are some issues when using it. In light winds even the slightest gust can accelerate the boat so that she sails through her apparent wind, leaving the spinnaker drooping lifelessly. In these conditions the best option is to head onto a broad reach, so apparent wind, and therefore boatspeed, will be higher. The only problem then is the need to gybe.

Another issue with heading dead downwind under spinnaker is that increases in wind strength can go unheeded. The boat speeds up and everyone has a jolly time, but if there’s a sea running and the boat begins to roll, things can go wrong very quickly. By that point, there’s often enough wind to make going forward to drop the spinnaker an edgy business.

Setting up for spinnaker sailing

This can be a lengthy business for a couple. First, sheets and guys need to be correctly rigged. As well as needing turning blocks in all the right places and the lines themselves, you need to rig the sheets and guys correctly because the loads involved in flying a sail of that size tend to make a big deal of any mistakes. You also need to know that the spinnaker has been packed free of twists, and that the corners you believe to be the clews and the head are indeed just that. Check all this before setting off as it’s easier on a stable boat than at sea.

The next step is to hoist the pole, then the spinnaker. It’s quite a hassle for a crew of two. Ideally, the helmsman would head dead downwind and flip on the autopilot just before the hoist, then move forward in the cockpit.

The foredeck crew hoists the halyard at the mast and the spinnaker goes up sheltered by the mainsail, while the cockpit crew looks after the halyard tail, sheets and guy. It’s much easier if you have a snuffer as the sail would be hoisted to the masthead before it was opened, so you can check everything is as it should be before filling the sail, and, with the halyard hoisted, there’s one less line to look after.

1 There’s a lot of setting up to do and, with a sail of this size, it needs to be right

2 Even if the sail had a snuffer, there’s a lot for two people to do during a spinnaker hoist

3 With the spinnaker hoisted and pole squared back, progress is quick and leisurely

Launch the pole on the new gybe and set it at the right height by hauling on the uphaul

The foredeck crew goes forward and the helm runs dead downwind and flips on the autopilot. With both sheets hauled tight and cleated off, the foredeck crew grabs the lazy guy – the helm needs to make sure there’s enough slack in the guy to do this – then trips the pole off the working guy. The helm lowers the pole uphaul so that the foredeck crew can load the new guy, then the helm hauls the pole up on the new gybe and hauls in on the guy, releasing the old sheet and trimming the new one. In benign conditions it’s a relatively straightforward job for the foredeck crew but the helm has five different lines to control in synchrony with the foredeck crew. Get the choreography wrong with a sail of this size in any but the lightest winds and the results can be expensive.

The symmetric spinnaker lets you sail deep downwind, but can be a handful for a short-handed crew

Sailing as a couple, you need a very slick routine to fly and gybe a spinnaker with confidence. The biggest problem is the sheer number of lines required. With a sheet and guy each side you quickly run out of winches, especially if you’re hoisting or dropping the spinnaker behind the jib, as that needs a winch too. Then there’s the need for the spinnaker sheet to ideally be taken across the boat to the opposite halyard winch, so that the trimmer can see the sail. At one point we ended up with two sheets criss-crossing the cockpit!

Two sheets, two guys, uphaul, downhaul and halyard tail – it’s a lot of extra rope

Had we not been intending to practice a few gybes, we could have got away with sheets alone. In these winds we could have hauled the twings, or sheet barberhaulers, down to the deck to create a new guy after gybing but in anything stronger, twings probably aren’t up to the loads of a guy.

Once flying, a symmetric spinnaker is fairly simple to control downwind, provided you don’t head so deep that the spinnaker backfills as you sail through the apparent wind, and wraps around the forestay.

We used the ‘letterbox’ method to drop the spinnaker. It’s the easiest way to drop but you do need a loose-footed main. Feed the lazy guy between the main and boom and get the halyard ready to drop. Ease the pole right forward, give the halyard a turn or two on a winch, hand the tail to the helm, stand in the companionway, release the halyard clutch and start hauling on the lazy guy. The helm eases the halyard enough for the crew to haul the sail in, but not so much that it touches the water.

Cruising chute

With four lines and no pole, a cruising chute is the simplest downwind sail

A cruising chute, also known as an asymmetric spinnaker, is one that has its tack and clew at different heights. The sail flies from a bowsprit, projecting the sail’s tack beyond the pulpit so that its foot doesn’t foul. As its tack is on the centerline, sailing dead downwind isn’t ideal because the main pretty much blankets the entire sail.

This Sadler 29 demonstrates that you can go dead downwind with a cruising chute: goosewing

A goosewinged asymmetric can run dead downwind but we decided to use it for the purpose it was designed: sailing the angles. It was a decision forced on us somewhat by the light winds, meaning that the apparent wind often died away when heading dead downwind, collapsing the sail. Sailing the angles gave us more apparent wind, and so more speed.

We were inside-gybing, with the dotted sheet, so the clew passed between the chute luff and the forestay. Rig the solid sheet for an outside gybe

The tackline is pulled tight, halyard and sheets are bent on: it’s ready to hoist

We had no bowsprit and the bow roller didn’t project beyond the pulpit so we strapped the spinnaker pole into the bow roller and lashed a block to the end of the pole. We would run the sail’s tackline through this block and lead it back to a halyard winch. We didn’t want to use the pole-end fitting because it wasn’t designed for the perpendicular loadpath the tackline would impose. This arrangement allowed us to project the tack beyond the pulpit. Sheets were run outside the lifelines to blocks on the quarters and back to the primary winches.

The beauty of gybing an asymmetric is that it can all be done from the cockpit. There are two ways to gybe an asymmetric: inside (between the luff and the forestay) and outside (outside of both). The latter works well in all but the lightest winds but often, during gybes, the old sheet ends up sliding down the luff and under the bow. That’s why you see asymmetric racing boats with bits of sail batten taped to their bowsprit, or ‘horns’ on the tack: to snag the lazy sheet. That’s not a problem with inside gybing but there is a chance the sail will wrap around the forestay during the gybe if your technique isn’t slick. We opted to inside gybe and from sailing on one gybe to sailing on the other took 10-15 seconds.

With the sailbag clipped to the lifelines, the tackline was attached, sheets run, then the halyard was clipped on. The tackline was hauled in to get the tack over the pulpit to the tackline’s block, and the sheet was loaded on the winch and self-tailer with plenty of slack.

Running almost dead downwind we hoisted the sail easily. With the halyard clutch closed, we came up onto a broad reach, the sail filled and we trimmed on.

Heading too deep, we sailed through our apparent wind and the sail hung limp

The plan had been to broad reach at about 150° to the apparent wind and flip on the autopilot. However, the pressure was so patchy that the apparent wind was constantly shifting, coming forward onto the beam as we accelerated and aft as we slowed. Hand-steering was necessary.

By sailing further, the chute boat found little pockets of wind and was soon charging

After a laboured first gybe, our technique improved rapidly. As the boat heads down, the old sheet is eased until the clew is just forward of the forestay, then the new one is hauled in. Steer dead downwind until the clew is round the forestay. Watch the clew or mark the sheets so that you know when you’ve eased enough.

Gybing takes about ten seconds and can be done from the cockpit

As the new sheet is hauled in, come through the wind, bring the main over and come up to fill the sail. In these light winds we gybed by hauling the falls of mainsheet across. In stronger wind, goosewing while sheeting the main onto the centreline before gybing.

We headed dead downwind so that the main blanketed the sail. If we had a sock, we would just release the sheet and snuff the sail from the foredeck then release the tackline. With no sock, we gave the spinnaker halyard one or two turns on a winch to stop the sail falling into the water, passed the tail to the helm, released the clutch, hauled down the sail, unclipped the running rigging and bagged the sail.

If your mainsail isn’t loose-footed, don’t haul in the chute under the boom as there’s certain to be a loose split pin that will tear the sail. Sit on the sidedeck, haul the chute into your lap, then feed it down the hatch.

So, which is the best way to sail downwind?

FASTEST: spinnaker

The spinnaker boat was undoubtedly the quickest but the cruising chute was a close second

It’s no surprise that this went in order of sail area. The spinnaker (128m2/1,378sq ft) is almost 30% bigger than the cruising chute (93m2/1,001sq ft) and over three times the size of the genoa (37m2/398sq ft). The spinnaker was quickest at every stage – but not by a distance proportionate to sail area.

The poled-out genoa boat was only 7% slower after 90 minutes’ sailing

After 7.1 miles of sailing, the spinnaker was about 400m, or 0.2 miles, ahead of the poled-out genoa, only 3% faster, with the cruising chute just a few metres behind the spinnaker. It was closer than expected but if speed is your priority and you know what you’re doing, choose the spinnaker.

In light winds, the spinnaker and cruising chute boats had to sail the angles to create some apparent wind and fill the sail. The poled-out genoa, though much smaller, was ready to catch the slightest zephyr, and sailed the shortest distance.

The cruising chute boat sailed furthest, gybing eight times to the spinnaker’s three and the genoa’s two. However, on one of our gybes, we found a patch of wind and accelerated away while the spinnaker and genoa boats were stalled. In these conditions, sailing further meant we could find some little patches of wind that the others didn’t.

MOST COMFORTABLE: poled-out genoa

If the breeze gets up, reefing the genoa is a piece of cake, not so the other sails

We got none of the rolling that can turn a downwind passage into something of a fairground ride. In a stronger breeze, the genoa boat will roll least because the sails’ centre of effort is lower. In heavier weather, when you’re running under poled-out headsail alone, you can reduce sail area by furling. It’s the only strong-wind option of the three for shorthanded cruising.

Running in light winds the poled-out genoa is always set, whereas the spinnaker hangs, risking a twist

The spinnaker’s centre of effort is higher so it rolls most in stronger winds. There are techniques to limit it and avoid the ‘death roll’ but take them early because once she starts rolling, doing anything except hanging on isn’t easy.

By sailing the angles the cruising chute boat avoids the entire issue of roll as heel will be constant. Speed, and therefore apparent wind, is highest of the three set-ups too. In stronger winds broaching is possible if the boat heels so far that the rudder stalls. In stronger breeze, the greater sail area is a liability.

LEAST HASSLE: Cruising chute

With no pole, it’s easier to manoeuvre quickly and visibility forward is better than the poled-out genoa

Just one sheet to handle instead of six lines for a spinnaker, quick to gybe and no need to go forward

The spinnaker crew was the most hassled. The pole needed rigging, sheets and guys running, and there are lots of little details to get right. We dip-pole gybed but even end-to-end gybes require a spell forward as well as having someone to work the cockpit. The genoa boat had a relaxed time in between gybes, but again, any gybe involves a trip forward and someone choreographing in the cockpit. Gybing a pole is a hassle, regardless of what’s on the end of it.

Even in light airs, helm and trimmer must be on the ball – fine if you like sailing a boat rather than riding it

The cruising chute boat gybed in seconds without a trip forward. In lighter winds it makes more demands on the helmsman and crew, trimming and changing course to keep the sail filled downwind, but if you enjoy sailing boats rather than riding them, activity on the cruising chute boat is constant but never demanding. On the other boats there’s less to do, except during gybes when there’s too much for two. Visibility forward is decent so, for manoeuvrability in crowded waters, this and its gybing speed give it the edge.

The yacht designer’s view

Luke Shingledecker, Farr Yacht Design

We spoke to Luke Shingledecker of Farr Yacht Design, the company that designed the Beneteau First 40

‘The best progress downwind is often achieved by sailing the angles because the apparent wind speed is greater, and the apparent wind angle is closer to a reach, where the sails can generate lift and are more efficient. Dead downwind, the sails just catch wind. Sailing higher increases boatspeed enough to overcome the extra distance sailed.

‘In stronger winds, the loss of apparent wind speed is a much smaller portion of the total windspeed so the best progress downwind occurs at deeper angles.

‘Dead downwind, increasing sail area by switching from poled-out jib to spinnaker increases thrust, which increases boatspeed. But increased boatspeed decreases the apparent wind speed, which means less thrust. So, as you found, the increase in boatspeed is much smaller than the increase in area. Also, the thrust required to increase speed is not proportional; at typical boatspeeds, the required thrust increases with the third power of speed (30% more thrust to go 10% faster).

‘Reviewing our velocity prediction for this boat, I would expect the increase in boatspeed (from poled-out jib to symmetric spinnaker) to be 10-12% in 5-10 knots of wind, decreasing to 7% in 15-20 knots of wind – a bit more than you have recorded, possibly due to the difficulty of keeping the spinnaker full. The relative speed differences should reduce in stronger winds.’

Medina Yard, Cowes

To Craig Nutter for his help on the day. A veteran of two America’s Cups and a Whitbread Race, Craig is now manager of the Medina Yard in Cowes and a good friend of YM.

Tel: 01983 203872

Email: [email protected]

Web: www.medinayard.co.uk

To Sunsail for loaning us three F40s. Sunsail is an approved RYA Training Centre offering a comprehensive range of RYA theory and practical courses, from Start Yacht to Yachtmaster, and race training courses, including spinnaker handling. Friendly, experienced instructors can even provide one-on-one training on your own yacht.

Tel: 02392 222221

Email: [email protected]

Web: www.sunsail.co.uk

Points of Sail Diagram: A Visual Guide to Sailing Positions

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 16, 2023 | Sailboat Racing

Short answer points of sail diagram:

A points of sail diagram illustrates the different angles at which a sailing boat can interact with the wind. It typically presents five main positions – close-hauled, beam reach, broad reach, running, and an illustration of how these angles relate to the wind direction. These diagrams assist sailors in understanding sail trim and optimal boat performance.

Understanding the Points of Sail Diagram: A Step-by-Step Guide

If you’re new to the world of sailing, understanding the points of sail diagram is essential knowledge. It serves as a compass for sailors, helping them navigate their way through different wind conditions and efficiently maneuver their boats. In this step-by-step guide, we will dive deep into what the points of sail diagram mean and how they can be used to your advantage on the water.

1. Introduction: The Importance of Understanding Points of Sail Sailing is all about harnessing the power of the wind to propel your boat forward. To do this effectively, you need to understand how your sails interact with the wind from different directions. The points of sail diagram provides a visual representation of these angles, serving as a valuable tool to help you optimize your speed and direction while sailing.

2. Breaking down the Diagram The points of sail diagram typically features eight distinct sections or “points” that represent different angles at which the boat can sail in relation to the wind direction. At one extreme is upwind sailing or close-hauled sailing (pointing directly into the wind), followed by various angles such as close reach, beam reach, broad reach, running downwind, and finally dead downwind (with the wind directly behind). Each point on the diagram represents an angle with respect to true or apparent wind.

3. Close-Hauled Sailing: Challenging but Efficient Close-hauled sailing is when you’re pointing directly into the wind or slightly off it. This is considered one of the most challenging points on the diagram but yields excellent efficiency if sailed correctly. Your sails will be trimmed in tightly, allowing them to capture as much energy from head-on winds as possible without stalling.

4. Reaching: Finding Your Sweet Spot When you start moving away from close-hauled sailing, you’ll enter other points called reaches—close reach, beam reach, and broad reach—that offer differing angles between your boat’s bow and the wind direction. Reaching is like finding a sweet spot on the points of sail spectrum, wherein boat speed and maneuverability are maximized. Depending on the angle, you may need to adjust your sail trim and weight distribution to optimize performance.

5. Downwind: Embracing the Wind’s Power As you move farther down the points of sail diagram, you’ll reach running downwind and dead downwind (also known as sailing by the lee). These points have their unique challenges but also immense rewards. Running with the wind directly behind can provide exhilarating speed, but it requires careful handling of your sails due to possible accidental jibing. By understanding these points, you can trim your sails for optimal performance while maintaining control.

6. Practical Applications: Utilizing Points of Sail Diagram to Your Advantage Understanding the points of sail diagram is not only about theory—it has practical implications too. By analyzing factors such as wind strength, sea state, and desired course, you can determine which point on the diagram is most suitable for reaching your destination efficiently. Adjusting your sails accordingly and making slight alterations in your heading based on wind shifts will help you maintain higher speeds and reduce unnecessary zig-zagging.

7. Improving Sailboat Racing Skills with Points of Sail For sailors who engage in competitive racing, comprehending the points of sail diagram becomes even more fundamental to success on the racecourse. Understanding how your boat performs in different angles relative to other boats allows for strategic decision-making during mark roundings and tactical maneuvers throughout a race.

In conclusion, mastering the points of sail diagram is a crucial skill for any sailor looking to improve their efficiency and navigate smoothly through various wind conditions. Whether you’re a novice sailor or an experienced racer, understanding this visual representation will undoubtedly enhance your ability to harness the power of wind effectively while enjoying what sailing has to offer. Happy sailing!

How to Interpret the Points of Sail Diagram: A Beginner’s FAQ

Title: Exploring the Points of Sail Diagram: A Beginner’s Comprehensive Guide

Introduction: Sailing, with its timeless appeal and serene beauty, has captivated human beings for centuries. It offers an exhilarating way to navigate through vast water bodies using the power of the wind. However, fully understanding the various “points of sail” is crucial for any novice sailor looking to embark on this extraordinary adventure. In this blog post, we aim to demystify the Points of Sail diagram by providing a comprehensive FAQ-style guide that encompasses all necessary details and navigational techniques one needs to grasp before setting sail.

1. What is the Points of Sail Diagram? At its core, the Points of Sail diagram presents a visual representation of all possible angles at which a sailing vessel can harness wind power effectively. It illustrates how a boat’s sails interact with the wind relative to its course and helps sailors determine the most optimal technique for achieving their desired speed and direction.

2. Understanding the Wind Directions: The first step in interpreting this diagram involves understanding four fundamental wind directions:

a) Dead Ahead (Close Hauled): The wind direction aligned directly forward from your boat. b) In Irons: Sailing too closely into the wind, causing your sails to luff or flap irregularly. c) Beam Reach: The wind blowing perpendicular to your vessel’s side. d) Running Before or Downwind: The wind coming from behind your boat.

3. Determining Apparent Wind: Apparent Wind refers to how the actual windspeed and direction impact a boat as it moves through water. Depending on factors such as boat speed and angle relative to true wind, apparent wind may differ slightly from real-world measurements.

4. Identifying Sail Positions and Pointing Angles: The diagram demonstrates six key points where you can position your sails based on their interaction with apparent wind:

a) Close Hauled (AKA Beating or Cracking Off): Sailing as closely into the wind as possible. b) Close Reach: Sailing at an angle just off the wind direction. c) Beam Reach: Sailing perpendicular to the wind, with sails fully open and untrimmed. d) Broad Reach: Sailing slightly downwind while maintaining good speed and stability. e) Running (Downwind Run): Sail positioned for maximum acceleration from a tailwind. f) Wing-and-Wing: A technique used when sailing directly downwind or running, where two sails are set on opposite sides of the boat.

5. Optimal Courses: By understanding which points of sail are best suited for different wind angles, you can plot optimal courses that minimize tacking maneuvers, maintain efficient speeds, and maximize your overall sailing experience.

Conclusion: Mastering the Points of Sail diagram is like unveiling the secrets of the sea—a necessary step on a sailor’s journey towards complete control in harnessing wind power and navigating through vast waterways. With this comprehensive guide, beginners can now confidently interpret and apply the principles illustrated by this invaluable diagram. Enjoy your time exploring these uncharted waters while experiencing the thrill only true sailors understand!

Demystifying the Points of Sail Diagram: Essential Concepts Explained

Title: Demystifying the Points of Sail Diagram: Unlocking Essential Concepts

Introduction:

Sailing, though often seen as an exhilarating and graceful sport, can be quite enigmatic for novices. Aspiring sailors often encounter a perplexing diagram called “The Points of Sail.” While its purpose is evident to seasoned sailors, deciphering this visual aid can leave newcomers scratching their heads. If you find yourself in this group, fear not! We are here to unpack this enigma and provide you with a comprehensive understanding of the essential concepts behind the points of sail diagram.

1. Unveiling the Hidden Navigation Tool:

At first glance, the points of sail diagram might seem like a cluster of incomprehensible arrows and sectors. Yet, beneath its arcane appearance lies one of sailing’s most crucial navigation tools—an instrument that reveals how a sailboat interacts with wind directions in different scenarios.

2. Direction Influences Sailing Efficiency:

To understand the points of sail fully, it is vital to grasp that wind direction plays an influential role in determining sailing efficiency. For instance, trying to sail directly upwind not only becomes challenging but may even render your conquest impossible due to physics constraints.

3. The Big Picture: Dividing Wind Directions:

Divided into eight main divisions delimited by arbitrary angles (known as sectors), the points of sail diagram delineates various wind directions relative to a sailboat’s bow – from dead ahead (wind coming directly towards) through all possible headings until reaching dead astern (wind coming directly from behind).

4. Zones Destined for Thrilling Speed:

Among these sectors lie three significant zones that provide optimal conditions for maximizing speed and efficient navigation—close-hauled (or close to the wind), beam reach, and broad reach zones.

a) Close-Hauled Zone: Taking you closest to sailing against the wind, known as pointing close-hauled or beating into the eye of zephyr, this sector is ideal for gaining height without any side drift.

b) Beam Reach Zone: With wind coming from a ninety-degree angle to the boat, this zone enables smooth sailing with impressive speeds. Be prepared to experience a quick rhythm and exceptional lateral movement.

c) Broad Reach Zone: As you venture away from the close-hauled zone, the wind angle increases further until it reaches your vessel at an acute rearward angle within the broad reach zone. Brace yourself for exhilarating surges of speed combined with rejuvenating breezes brushing against your face.

5. Tacking and Jibing Essentials:

While familiarizing yourself with the points of sail diagram, it is essential to grasp two fundamental maneuvers – tacking and jibing. Tacking involves turning your boat’s bow through the wind while crossing into another close-hauled sector, allowing you to change direction efficiently. Conversely, jibing entails swinging your stern through the wind, facilitating shifts from one broad reach or run sector to another.

6. The Pleasures and Challenges of Dead Zones:

Filling in the gaps between those three key zones lie three areas aptly named dead zones (no-sail sectors). These sectors encompass scenarios where the sailboat struggles due to inadequate winds in relation to its direction—irresistible challenges that demand remarkable skill and patience from sailors determined to conquer them.

Conclusion:

Admittedly, unraveling the intricacies behind a seemingly complicated diagram like “The Points of Sail” might appear daunting at first. However, understanding these essential concepts is crucial for aspiring sailors seeking smooth navigation across varying wind directions. By embracing the intricacies delineated in this blog post, we hope that you embark on your sailing adventure equipped with newfound confidence and knowledge—a blend essential for taking full advantage of every possible point of sail on your nautical journey!

Mastering Sailboat Navigation: Unveiling the Power of the Points of Sail Diagram

Sailboat navigation is an ancient art that mariners have entrusted their lives to for centuries. From early explorers to modern-day sailors, understanding the ins and outs of navigating a sailboat is crucial for a successful voyage. One powerful tool that has stood the test of time is the Points of Sail Diagram – a clever representation that unlocks the true potential of sailing.

The sailboat’s points of sail diagram depicts six different angles at which a boat can effectively sail in relation to the wind. These angles are named: close-hauled, close reach, beam reach, broad reach, running, and dead downwind. Each point represents a unique combination of sail trim and wind direction that not only affects speed but also determines your ability to reach your intended destination.

Let’s dive into each point and uncover the secrets they hold!

1. Close-hauled: This point showcases utmost efficiency against an upwind or beating course. By steering as close to the wind as possible, sailors can maximize their velocity made good (VMG) towards their desired location. However, it requires precise trimming and constant adjustments to keep sails full without stalling them.

2. Close Reach: When you ease slightly from close-hauled, you enter this versatile point. It allows for increased speed by harnessing more lift from airflow across sails while maintaining efficiency upwind. The close reach can be your go-to when trying to make headway towards a target upwind.

3. Beam Reach: Here lies sheer exhilaration! Your sails fill with maximum power perpendicular to the wind direction, propelling you comfortably at good speed across open water. The enticing balance between stable sailing conditions and thrilling progression makes this point ideal for leisurely cruises or having some fun with friends out on the water.

4. Broad Reach: As you continue turning away from directly perpendicular windward orientation, the sailboat starts moving closer to running downwind. The broad reach showcases both elegance and excitement as your boat gracefully glides through the water with exhilarating speed. It’s a sweet spot where veteran sailors masterfully handle their craft, sticking harmoniously between swiftness and control.

5. Running: Picture this: You’re on a sailboat racing downwind, feeling the wind in your hair, spray in your face, and that pure adrenaline rush! Welcome to the running point—where boats effortlessly surf along waves propelled by nothing but nature’s breath. While it might appear simple, maintaining optimal control while maximizing speed requires subtle adjustments like using weight distribution or trimming sails strategically.

6. Dead Downwind: To complete our journey across the points of sail diagram, we find ourselves at dead downwind – sailing directly away from the wind. In this position, you’ll witness simplicity at its finest as you let nature do most of the work. However, an experienced sailor knows that even in simplicity lies a challenge; staying perfectly aligned without accidental gybing or losing momentum demands focus and skill.

Understanding these points of sail unlocks infinite possibilities for sailors worldwide. Whether you’re competing in regattas striving for ultimate performance or embarking on leisurely journeys exploring vast blue horizons – mastery over these angles is essential.

So next time you step aboard a sailboat, take a moment to appreciate the power behind each diagram point and let it guide you towards sailing excellence and unforgettable nautical adventures!

Navigating Your Way with a Points of Sail Diagram: A Comprehensive Breakdown

Navigating your way through the vast sea or ocean can be an exhilarating yet complex task. Sailors and boating enthusiasts face a multitude of challenges, from changing wind conditions to varying water depths. To add to this complexity, sailors must also have a thorough understanding of the points of sail diagram, which acts as a compass in guiding them towards their destination.

The points of sail diagram is designed to help sailors determine the most efficient angle for their sailboat’s sails in relation to the wind direction. It provides a visual representation of how a sailboat should maneuver depending on the wind’s course. By understanding this diagram, sailors are able to make precise adjustments and harness the power of the wind effectively.

Let’s delve into each section of this comprehensive breakdown to truly comprehend the significance and functionality of this crucial sailing tool:

1. The No-Sail Zone: At one extreme end of the points of sail diagram lies the no-sail zone. This area signifies when your boat is directly facing into the wind, with sails unable to generate any driving force. Sailors must avoid this zone since it offers little to no forward movement and can lead to frustratingly slow progress.

2. Close Hauled: Moving slightly away from the no-sail zone, we encounter close-hauled sailing position where you’re almost pointing directly into the wind but not completely. Here, your sails are trimmed in tight, maximizing their efficiency by capturing as much air as possible while maintaining forward propulsion. This position is ideal for sailing upwind or against the wind’s direction.

3. Beam Reach: Continuing along our journey around the points of sail diagram, we find ourselves at beam reach – where your boat is positioned perpendicular (90 degrees) to the wind direction. Your sails are set accordingly so that they can capture maximum lateral pressure from sideways winds. This point offers a perfect balance between speed and control while ensuring swift progress at right angles to the prevailing winds.

4. Broad Reach: As we venture further around the diagram, our sails start to move away from the boat’s centerline. In this broad reach position, your sails capture the wind from behind as you sail across it. The boat is neither pointing directly downwind nor cutting through at a right angle but lies somewhere in between. At this point, sailing maneuvers become more challenging, requiring careful adjustments to maintain stability and prevent accidental gybing (when the boom swings excessively due to wind changes).

5. Running Downwind: Finally, we arrive at the last section of the points of sail diagram – running downwind or sailing directly away from the wind’s direction. This position poses its unique challenges since you must avoid unintentional jibing while keeping your sails filled with air by controlling their shape using various techniques like goosewinging or using a spinnaker sail.

Understanding and mastering these various positions on the points of sail diagram grants sailors an extraordinary level of control over their vessel. By ensuring sails are appropriately trimmed and positioned according to wind direction, sailors can maximize speed, efficiency, and overall maneuverability.

In conclusion, navigating your way with a points of sail diagram acts as a comprehensive compass for every sailor out on the open waters. It provides clear visual guidance on how to optimize your sails’ performance while adapting to changing wind conditions. By embracing this tool with professional knowledge and clever adjustments, sailors can confidently navigate any course set before them – making their time on water not only efficient but also exhilaratingly enjoyable.

Fine-Tuning Your Sailing Skills: Utilizing the Points of Sail Diagram for Optimal Efficiency

Fine-tuning your sailing skills is essential if you want to become an efficient and savvy sailor. As with any sport or activity, practice makes perfect, but it is equally important to understand the fundamental concepts that drive sailing. One such concept that every sailor should be familiar with is the points of sail diagram – a powerful tool that can greatly enhance your efficiency on the water.

The points of sail diagram visually represents the different angles at which your boat can sail in relation to the wind direction. It not only helps you navigate through various wind conditions but also allows you to make informed decisions regarding sail trim and course selection. By fully understanding and utilizing this diagram, you can optimize your efficiency on the water and get the most out of your sailing experience.

So, let’s delve into each point of sail and explore how they can contribute to enhanced sailing proficiency:

1. Close-Hauled: This is when your boat sails as close as possible towards the wind without allowing it to stall or luff. It requires precise trimming of both mainsail and jib, ensuring maximum power while keeping the sails flat. Mastering close-hauled sailing gives you excellent upwind performance and enables you to maintain a steady course against opposing current or rough sea conditions.

2. Beam Reach: At this point of sail, your boat forms a 90-degree angle with respect to the wind direction. With both sails trimmed appropriately, you achieve optimal balance between speed and maneuverability while enjoying relatively smooth sailing conditions. Beam reaching provides an opportunity to harness significant velocity without sacrificing stability.

3. Broad Reach: As you start turning away from a beam reach towards a downwind course, you enter into this point of sail category known as broad reach. The trick here lies in adjusting your sails for maximum power delivery while avoiding unintentional gybes (when your boom swings suddenly across). By leveraging wind shifts effectively, broad reaching becomes thrilling yet controlled navigation technique suited for covering long distances efficiently.

4. Running: This is sailing directly downwind, with the wind blowing into the back of your sails. It requires strategic sail setup to catch every ounce of available wind and maintain a stable course without any accidental broaches (when your boat swerves uncontrollably). Knowing how to handle running conditions empowers you to hold steady in pursuit of top speeds or calmly navigate through tight areas crowded with other boats.

By actively incorporating these points of sail into your sailing repertoire, you can easily adapt to changing wind conditions and make informed decisions on sail trim, course selection, and even tactical maneuvers while racing competitively. Whether you’re an experienced sailor looking for that competitive edge or just starting your sailing journey, mastering the points of sail diagram will undoubtedly improve your efficiency on the water.

However, keep in mind that each boat type performs uniquely under different points of sail and mastering their nuances requires practice and experience. Nevertheless, armed with the knowledge provided by the points of sail diagram and some time spent honing your skills on the water, you’ll soon find yourself navigating effortlessly with style, confidence, and optimal efficiency – leaving any novice sailors enviously wondering how you make it all look so easy! So embrace this powerful tool as it unlocks a world where sailing becomes not only a hobby but also an art form – blending science with intuition and exhilaration with precision. Bon voyage!

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Home > Resources > Types of Downwind Sails: Understanding Code Zeros, Spinnakers, Genoas, and More

Types of Downwind Sails: Understanding Code Zeros, Spinnakers, Genoas, and More

05 July 2023

Ask Precision Sails , Design , Downwind , Featuring - Partners , Headsail , Spinnakers , Technical

When it comes to sailing, having the right set of sails is essential for a smooth and enjoyable experience on the water. For cruisers, in particular, finding the right sails can sometimes be a challenge, as the sail-making world has traditionally focused more on racing sails. However, there are sailmakers like Precision Sails that have recognized the need for high-quality sails tailored specifically to the needs of cruisers.

In a recent discussion between Sailing Dauntless , a sailing YouTube channel you may know, and the experienced experts here at Precision Sails, the topic of downwind sails came up. In this article, we will explore the different types of downwind sails commonly used by cruisers, such as code zeros and genoas, and delve into the factors to consider when building a sail inventory. So, let’s dive in!

Read along or watch the video of our interview with Dauntless .

Understanding the Terminology

When it comes to sail terminology, it can be quite overwhelming, especially for those new to sailing. Different regions and countries may have varying names for similar types of sails, adding to the confusion. However, rather than getting caught up in the jargon, it’s important to focus on understanding the purpose and functionality of the sails.

In the world of jibs and genoas, the terms can differ depending on the location and the type of boat. For instance, in some regions, a genoa refers to a larger light-wind sail, while a jib is a smaller sail designed for heavier winds. However, it’s crucial to remember that these names may not be consistent globally or even between different types of boats.

Defining Head Sail Size with Percentages

Headsail sizes are often denoted in percentages. For example, you may come across references to 115%, 135%, or 150% sails. But what do these percentages actually mean?

The percentages represent the LP (Left Perpendicular) measurement in comparison to the J measurement of the boat, which is a method to calculate the area of a triangle. The Luff Perpendicular (LP) is the distance from the clue (the trailing corner of the sail) to the leading edge of the sail at the perpendicular point. This measurement allows sail designers to determine the size of the sail.

To visualize this, imagine a triangle formed by the height of the mast (known as the “I” measurement) and the J measurement, which is the distance from the base of the mast to the base of the forestay. By calculating the area of this triangle, designers can determine the size of the sail. The LP measurement divided by the J measurement gives a rough estimate of the sail’s size.

Tailoring the Sail Inventory

For cruisers, building a sail inventory involves considering factors such as available space, budget constraints, and intended sailing destinations. Not everyone needs a vast array of sails like hardcore racers who may have multiple sails onboard and a crew to handle them.

When it comes to head sails, such as jibs and genoas, it’s essential to define the sail’s purpose based on your specific needs. For instance, genoas are typically larger light-wind sails, while jibs are smaller. Precision Sails often categorizes genoas as sails starting around 120-130% LP and going up to 150%, providing better performance in light winds. On the other hand, jibs are smaller and more suitable for heavy weather conditions and are typically 80% – 120% LP.

Collaborating with Sail Designers

One of the advantages of working with sail designers, such as Precision Sails, is the opportunity for customization and optimization of sails based on your specific needs. Collaborating with sail designers allows you to tailor your sail inventory to match your sailing style, the conditions you typically encounter, and the destinations you plan to visit.

Sail designers have the expertise to help you choose the right type of downwind sails for your cruising needs. They can guide you through the process of selecting sails such as code zeros, spinnakers, genoas, and other downwind options that will enhance your sailing performance and enjoyment.

If you’ve read this far, and need sails, how about you request a quote ? Once you’re done with that, let’s take a closer look at some of the common types of downwind sails:

Common Downwind Sails

Here’s our breakdown of some of the key differences between different downwind sails.

A code zero is a versatile downwind sail that is ideal for light to moderate wind conditions. It is typically used when sailing at angles between a true downwind course and a close reach. Code zeros are known for their ability to generate power and provide good speed in light winds. They have a high aspect ratio and a flat shape, which allows them to maintain their shape and performance even when the wind is light.

Code zeros are typically designed to be flown from a bowsprit or a specialized furler, and they are often made from lightweight materials to maximize their efficiency in light wind conditions. These sails are easy to handle and can be furled or unfurled quickly, making them a popular choice for cruising sailors.

Genoas are another type of downwind sail commonly used by cruisers. They are larger headsails that are designed to provide good performance in light to moderate wind conditions. Genoas are usually categorized based on their LP percentage, with sizes ranging from around 120% to 150% LP.

The larger size of genoas allows them to capture more wind and generate power when sailing downwind or on a broad reach. They are effective in light winds and are often used when sailing in trade wind regions or during long downwind passages. Genoas can be made from a variety of materials, including dacron, laminate, or other high-performance fabrics.

Cruising Spinnakers

Most cruising sailors choose asymmetrical spinnakers or simply “asyms” . They are designed to be easy to handle and versatile in a wide range of wind conditions and angles and can be flown without the need for a spinnaker pole. Cruising spinnakers are typically made with lightweight nylon fabrics and have a unique shape that allows them to be used as light wind-reaching sails and can also provide good downwind performance.

These sails are versatile and can be used on various points of sail, including reaching and running. Cruising spinnakers are particularly effective in light to moderate wind conditions and can add excitement to your sailing experience. They are available in different sizes and designs, allowing you to choose the one that suits your boat and sailing preferences.

Other Downwind Options

In addition to code zeros, genoas, and cruising spinnakers, there are other downwind/ light wind sails that cruisers may consider adding to their sail inventory. These include reachers, gennakers, and traditional symmetrical spinnakers.

Reachers are designed for broad and beam-reaching courses and provide good performance in moderate wind conditions. They are typically easier to handle than symmetrical spinnakers and can be flown from a bowsprit or a specialized furler.

Gennakers are a hybrid between genoas and spinnakers. They can be designed to be flown with a furler, spinnaker sock, or a turtle bag and offer versatility in a wide range of wind angles and conditions. Gennakers are often used for cruising and can provide good performance on reaching and downwind courses.

Symmetrical Spinnakers

Symmetrical Spinnakers are traditional downwind sails that require a spinnaker pole to be set (on monohulls). They can be designed to be effective in stronger winds and are commonly used for downwind racing or when sailing in breezier conditions. Symmetrical spinnakers offer excellent downwind performance and can be flown on a broad reach or a run.

It’s important to note that handling a symmetrical spinnaker can be more challenging compared to other downwind sails. Setting and dousing the spinnaker requires coordination between the helmsperson, trimmer, and crew members. Additionally, gybing the sail while maintaining control can be more demanding. Therefore, symmetrical spinnakers are more commonly used by experienced sailors or when racing with a dedicated crew.

When considering downwind options, it’s essential to assess your sailing goals, experience level, and the prevailing wind conditions in your sailing area. Sail designers can assist you in determining the most suitable downwind sails based on these factors, ensuring you have a well-rounded and optimized sail inventory.

Collaborating with sail designers like Precision Sails allows you to benefit from their expertise, as they can provide personalized recommendations, assist with sail customization, and ensure the sails are tailored to your boat’s specifications. We are here to help – you can book a consultation here.

Remember, choosing the right downwind sails can significantly enhance your sailing experience, making it more enjoyable, efficient, and safe.

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Whether you’re racing to win or cruising unexplored waters, you need a downwind sail that performs. Buying a new spinnaker is an investment, and we don’t take that responsibility lightly. North Sails develops, tests, and refines our sail designs to give your boat power and control. That means extra boat speed and a better ride. Start your quest. Set the pace. Depend on North Sails spinnakers.

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A crisp, new spinnaker makes all the difference. You’ll find the exact cut and weight to fit your boat, be it a sport boat or equipped with a spinnaker pole. North Sails line of Racing Asymmetric and Symmetric spinnakers cover all angles of downwind sailing in light, medium, or heavy wind. Flying the right spinnaker at the right time gives you an edge. Take the lead.

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Sailing the Race Course – Downwind Leg for Beginners

In this article, we will outline the first  Downwind Leg for Beginners  with lots of links for more information. If there’s something else that want to understand, just type some keywords in the search box at the top of the page and we’ll show you what else we have on the topic.

This article continues where  Sailing the Race Course – Starting for Beginners  and Sailing the Race Course – Windward Leg for Beginners left off.

This  series of articles  introduces the key concepts of sailing a race from preparation to the starting sequence, buoy roundings and finishing. The target audience for this information is sailors that may have never competed in a formal race environment or want to better understand what is going on during a race. The target could also include someone who spectates and wants to better comprehend what is happening. Throughout, we will link to more advanced information, but the body of the article will be the basics. We will not go into rules details, but will mention rule areas that pertain to various situations, for further study. If we missed a basic concept, feel free to comment below. There will be links to lots of articles for more information throughout.

Downwind Leg Diagram

Downwind Leg 1

So, you’re rounding the offset. You already know what you plan on doing next because you thought ahead before the windward marks. While executing your plan, make sure to keep clear air and sail fast while thinking about what your next gybe will be.

Questions for Leaving the Top Marks

• How can I avoid traffic while on strategy?
• How can I keep clear air & maximum speed while on shortest path to leeward mark/gate?
• Is there a wind shift?
• Am I in the best pressure?
• How will I want to approach the leeward mark/gate?

Avoid boat to boat squabbles.

You want to focus on winning the race, not any one boat. Boat on boat tactics are most appropriate when you’re positioning to get around the top marks or bottom marks and on the last leg. However, someone may have blocked your gybe

Avoid the “Train”

Often in big fleets, boats rounding the mark will end up in a line ( The Train ) as they all try to maintain clear air on one tack. The problem is that this creates a battle to the outer edge of the course as each skipper tries to get clear air around the boat behind them. The result is a long line of boats on one tack – The Train . This situation makes it hard to get clear air , can limit your flexibility to tack out and can put you on a longer course to the bottom marks. If you expect the train to form, you might tactically decide to tack away early and then get on your own line. If you don’t tack out soon enough, you may have lost speed and will have to cross under the back end of the train’s wind shadow.

Tacking – Gybes

Going Downwind (“Running”) has similarities with Windward Legs. You want clear, strong breeze and to be able to sail your own race while staying on the tacks that lead most quickly to the bottom marks. Remember that:

The shortest distance between two points is a straight lin e.

If you can sail a straight line from the top marks to the bottom marks at top speed, then that’s probably the best thing. If you’re flying an asymmetrical chute, then you’ll undoubtedly be sailing bigger angles and gybing, but when you have the speed, drive down to aim closer to a line to the bottom mark. One thing to keep in mind, is that a Reach is generally faster than straight downwind. So, if can end the leg on a reach to the mark, then you may beat some boats to the mark.

• Sail fast. Always keep your boat optimized and stay focused.
• Stay on the favored tack as long as possible and in the best wind pressure (breeze)
• Best wind pressure
• Less traffic
• Better approach for the bottom marks

Gybing costs most boats some distance, so don’t gybe unnecessarily. Why would you gybe?

• The other tack aims better at the bottom mark (in good pressure, clear air, minimal traffic…).
• You want to get into a line of better breeze.
• You’re positioning to be able to gain buoy room at the mark.

Sometimes, especially after a hard upwind leg, some teams can treat the downwind leg as a rest time. Catch some rest when you can, but big gains can be made downwind . If you’re more alert than the next boat, you may really make some gains.

Bottom of the Leg

Before you reach the bottom third of the leg, you need to have a plan for the bottom marks that you’ve communicated with your crew. Your focus now is on how to round the marks on the favored upwind tack in the fastest, cleanest way given that there will be other boats wanting the same thing.

Questions for Downwind

• Which gate end is favored? Am I prepared to go that way?
• Will I have rights approaching?
• How will I manage traffic into the mark/gate?
• How can I position to deserve mark room at favored mark?
• Which side will be favored upwind ?

At this point, you should have time to position your boat to fight for inside position at the mark with an overlap at the zone to ask for buoy room. Can’t get the overlap? You should have a plan B. You might slow down by zig-zagging, luffing your sails or prematurely dropping your chute. It’s a good idea to practice these things before the race.

Olympians Stephanie Roble and Maggie Shea have some advice for downwind sailing that you should watch.

Downwind Tactics for Youth with Roble / Shea Sailing

Questions for the Leeward Approach

• How can I avoid getting trapped giving buoy room?
• Do I need to slow down or speed up?
• Are my lines, controls (vang, downhaul…), boards ready for upwind turn and all untangled, ready to hike?
• Will I want to tack after rounding?
• Will I be gybing around the mark or just pointing up?
• Will I take down the spinnaker before the marks or as we round?
• At 3 boat length circle, have I notified those near who have or don’t have buoy room? Who will I owe room? Where is my transom pointing?

Mark Room can be a complex topic, so spend some time reviewing these articles for a better understanding. John Porter, a certified race professional, suggests that you notify any boats early that you think they will need to give you mark room, even a bit before the zone, so that they aren’t surprised. A side benefit of this is that the other crews will have a chance to see what you see as you enter the zone. Your mark room rights are triggered as your hull hits the zone circle , so that’s when they need to assess your case. If you wait until you’re in the crunch at the mark, they may remember entering the zone differently.

18.2 (b) If boats are  overlapped  when the first of them reaches the  zone , the outside boat at that moment shall thereafter give the inside boat  mark-room . If a boat is  clear ahead  when she reaches the  zone , the boat  clear astern  at that moment shall thereafter give her  mark-room . Racing Rules of Sailing 2021-2024

Rule 18.2 Key Points

• This rule applies at both the windward and leeward marks. We’ll cover windward mark situations when we cover Rule 18.3.
• If Rule 18 applies, then either Rule 18.2(a) or Rule 18.2(b) will apply. The most common situations involve Rule 18.2(b).
• The key to understanding Rule 18.2(b) is to think of a “snapshot” when the first boat enters the zone. If the first boat enters the zone clear ahead, she need not give mark room to boats that are clear astern.
• When a boat claims she obtained or broke an overlap in time, the claim must be well-supported. If there is reasonable doubt, the claim will not be accepted.
• Rule 18 “turns off” when mark-room has been given. This means satisfying all the required portions of the mark-room definition.

Remember, if you are getting mark room, you need to sail a proper course around the mark.

Related Content

Downwind Tactics for Youth with Roble / Shea Sailing – SailZing

Downwind Strategy Checklist – SailZing

Downwind Strategy Mistakes: Four Ways to Get Passed – SailZing

Downwind Strategy Mistakes Part 2: More Ways to Get Passed …

Play the Shifts Downwind – Check Your Understanding – SailZing

Sailing the Race Course – Windward Leg for Beginners

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Home » Blog » Gear » Downwind sails demystified: how to choose a downwind sail for cruising

Downwind sails demystified: how to choose a downwind sail for cruising

By Author Fiona McGlynn

Posted on Last updated: February 15, 2023

Downwind sail terminology can be baffling! If you’re looking to build out your downwind sail inventory for cruising you may find yourself awash with spinnaker codes, headsail overlap percentages, and trying to understand the difference between an asymmetric spinnaker, gennaker, and cruising chute.

But don’t despair, the good news is: it’s not that complicated . All the marketing jargon aside, there are really just three types of downwind sails commonly used by cruisers and I’m going to cover them in this post.

• Asymmetric spinnakers

Symmetric spinnakers

We’ll also briefly touch on Code sails.

Sure there are more exotic downwind sail options like Parasailers and Blue Water Runners, but the three sails above tend to be the staples in most cruising sail wardrobes.

Also, if you’re looking to buy a downwind sail, be sure to check out our post on  buying used sails . Buying second-hand sails is a good way to build out your sail inventory without breaking the bank.

What is the best sail for downwind sailing?

No single sail is going to do everything well. Downwind sails achieve peak efficiency at different apparent wind angles and conditions, which is why performance-oriented boats carry a large inventory of sails. For example,  Vendee Globe skippers carry 9 sails  (their allowable limit).

As cruisers, we don’t have this luxury. Instead, we make do with fewer, less specialized, sails that can be used over a wide range of wind angles and conditions.

The best sail for downwind sailing is going to depend on your boat, your crew, and what you’re trying to achieve.

Considerations for choosing a downwind sail

Boat and rig.

How heavy is your boat and what type of rig does it have? How much space do you have for storing sails?

It’s important to  know your boat’s most efficient downwind sailing angle  and then choose a sail that performs well at that angle.

Modern, light, flat-bottomed boats often sail faster on a reach, whereas older, heavy-displacement cruisers don’t achieve the same gains from reaching.

You’ll also want to consider your rig and existing sail plans. As we’ll see later in this post, fractional and masthead rig boats will have slightly different downwind sail requirements.

Crew and experience level

Will you have six people onboard or be sailing single-handed? Are your crew newbies or ocean veterans? Are you comfortable handling a pole and working on the foredeck?

Certain downwind sails are more challenging to fly than others. For instance, a symmetrical spinnaker is a lot more effort to launch, fly, and douse, than a genoa on a roller furler.

Often short-handed crews (couples, single-handers, and families with small kids) find that spinnakers are too much work and choose to fly white sails alone. Even the most energetic sailors may find that sleep deprivation on a long passage can sap the fun out of elaborate sail changes.

We, like many cruisers, are very conservative. On our Pacific crossing, I can count the number of times we flew a spinnaker on two hands.

However, now that we have more bluewater miles under our keel, I’m a lot more eager to break out the kite. On our next ocean passage, I can see it playing a bigger role in our downwind repertoire.

What are your sailing goals?

Do you aspire to complete an Atlantic or Pacific crossing? Do you enjoy racing your cruiser? Are you content to motor sail?

The type of sailing will influence what downwind sails you carry.

For instance, if you’re planning on bluewater cruising, your focus might be on durable, heavyweight sails that can handle a squall and stand up to the rigors of an ocean crossing.

Consider how much you want to use your engine. If you’re planning long passages where you don’t have enough fuel to motor, you may want to invest in a light air sail.

Reach out to other sailors with similar boats who are doing the type of sailing you’re interested in and find out what they’re using.

Types of downwind sails

Genoas on roller furlers are hard to beat for downwind sailing. They’re robust, easy for a single person to manage on a roller furler, and make for a stable, stress-free downwind sail.

They can become problematic in light air and ocean swell when they tend to flog. The best way to avoid this is to pole out the genoa.

Poled out genoa

Sailing downwind with a poled-out genoa  was our go-to setup for much of our 2017 Pacific crossing.

It seems to be a favorite with Atlantic skippers too.  Yachting World surveyed 276 ARC skippers to learn about their sail and sail handling systems. “Despite most yachts carrying a spinnaker or offwind sail, over 60 skippers commented that using a poled-out foresail was the most effective downwind option, with twin headsails proving the next most popular.“

Twin headsails

Twin headsails  are another great option, and one I would consider for our next ocean passage.

Many roller furlers have a second luff groove so you can fly two headsails at the same time, one to each side. This gives you a large sail area, while still making it easy to reef from the cockpit.

Again, you may need to pole out one sail and sheet the other to the end of a boom that’s been locked off with a boom preventer in order to prevent flogging.

Speaking of which, if you’re planning on doing a lot of downwind sailing I highly recommend using a  boom brake or preventer for limiting the risks associated with an accidental gybe.

Headsail types

Headsails are categorized by their Luff Perpendicular percentage (LP%), which describes a headsail’s size/overlap relative to the boat’s J dimension (from where the forestay connects to the bow to the base of the mast). Larger sails, with more overlap, have higher percentages. 

Generally speaking, 130-135% headsails are pretty common sizes on cruising boats. We had a 130% genoa on our 1979 Dufour 35.

If you have a fractional rig with a non-overlapping headsail, you could use a Code Zero (more on that below) either poled out or flown as twin headsails.

• Stable and comfortable
• Easy to deploy and reef on a roller furler
• Covers a wide range of wind angles and wind speeds
• Dacron is durable and not prone to damage
• Requires a spinnaker pole or whisker pole in lighter wind conditions and swell

Asymmetric spinnaker

Asymmetric spinnakers (also known as gennakers and cruising chutes) can be thought of as a blend between a spinnaker and a genoa.

They’re ideal for sailing in light conditions. We usually doused ours when windspeeds increased to 15 knots.

Most of the time, they’re flown like a genoa, with the tack attached to the foresprit or bow, and the clew trimmed with a sheet. However, it’s also possible to sail an asymmetrical spinnaker in more of a symmetrical configuration .

Many short-handed crews (including ourselves) prefer asymmetric spinnakers to symmetric spinnakers because they’re a lot easier to sail and often don’t require a pole.

It’s possible to put asymmetric spinnakers on a roller furler, but this generally requires a flatter sail and limits the wind angles you can sail at to 135-145 degrees.

For fuller shapes, there are other options for taming your sail. A snuffer sock (a.k.a. spinnaker sleeve) consists of a tapered fabric sleeve that can be raised and lowered over a sail. According to  Yachting World’s 2019 ARC Survey , 57% of skippers used a snuffer sock on their boats.

Asymmetric spinnaker types

You may have heard cruisers referring to their A-sails. The “A” stands for asymmetric and is preceded by a number that designates whether the sail design is for light air or heavy air—the higher the number the heavier the air.

The number also tells you whether it’s a reaching or running sail, with odd numbers for reaching and even numbers for running.

• 1A Light Air Reaching Asymmetric
• 2A Light Air Running Asymmetric
• 3A Heavy Air Reaching Asymmetric
• 4A Heavy Air Running Asymmetric
• 5A Extreme Wind Asymmetric
• Can point higher than a symmetrical spinnaker
• Easier to fly than a symmetrical spinnaker
• Not always necessary to use a pole
• Great in light winds
• More work than a headsail on a roller furler
• Only appropriate for light air
• Lightweight nylon fabrics more prone to damage

Symmetrical spinnakers have been around for a long time and continue to be a valid choice for cruising sailors.

The symmetrical shape of the sail lends them to wind angles of 165 degrees or more. If you’re going to spend a lot of time running, it’s a great option.

They’ve become less popular with short-handed crews, namely because of the work involved to fly them. They require a pole, sheet and guy lines, an uphaul, and a downhaul—all of which can be a lot to manage! They also can’t point as high as an asymmetrical spinnaker.

Symmetric spinnaker types

Similar to asymmetric spinnakers, symmetrical spinnakers have S codes. The “S” stands for symmetric and the number designates whether the sail is for light air or heavy air (the higher the number the heavier the air) and for reaching (odd numbers) or running (even numbers).

• 1S Light Air Reaching Symmetric
• 2S Light Air Running Symmetric
• 3S Heavy Air Reaching Symmetric
• 4S Heavy Air Running Symmetric
• 5S Extreme Air Symmetric
• Great for running
• Great in light air
• More work than an asymmetric spinnaker
• Limited reaching performance

Code sails are not technically downwind sails, and are best used for reaching in light airs. They’re similar to asymmetric spinnakers but have a solid luff that allows them to point higher.

They’re necessary on fractional-rig boats with non-overlapping headsails as they fill the gap between upwind headsails and downwind spinnakers. However, they can also be flown on a run as a twinned or poled-out headsail.

Finding the right sail and having a good downwind sailing setup can make your cruising experience more efficient, comfortable, and enjoyable.

I highly recommend talking to other sailors who own similar boats and who’ve sailed the passages and cruising grounds you’re interested in. Most experienced bluewater cruisers have spent a lot of time thinking about and refining their systems and will be more than happy to share what they’ve learned.

Fiona McGlynn is an award-winning boating writer who created Waterborne as a place to learn about living aboard and traveling the world by sailboat. She has written for boating magazines including BoatUS, SAIL, Cruising World, and Good Old Boat. She’s also a contributing editor at Good Old Boat and BoatUS Magazine. In 2017, Fiona and her husband completed a 3-year, 13,000-mile voyage from Vancouver to Mexico to Australia on their 35-foot sailboat.

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