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Hands-On The Rolex Yachtmaster II Regatta Timer, Ref. 116680

The rolex yacht-master ii: for those who consider themselves rolex enthusiasts, it's one of the most polarizing watches the crown produces. and yet there is more – much more – to this relative behemoth than meets the eye. we wanted to see what would happen if we met this technically unique, programmable flyback yacht timer chronograph on its own terms – read on to join us in our journey into one of the most idiosyncratically styled and mechanically sophisticated rolexes ever made..

I’m going to be completely honest: I was thoroughly prepared to have a negative reaction to this watch. Let’s face it; it’s a head-scratcher for the average Rolex/Submariner/GMT Master/Day-Date lover. First of all it’s pretty damned big. This is a 44 mm watch; it was born a 44 mm watch and it’ll die a 44 mm watch and that is nothing you or anybody else can do about it. You can have it in four different metals, and therefore, weights, ranging from steel (heavy) to gold/steel (heavier) to solid yellow gold (even heavier) to  platinum and white gold combined (Schwarzeneggerian). It has a Cerachrom bezel in an absolutely screaming shade of blue, and it says YACHT-MASTER in giant letters right across the bottom third or so just to remove any lingering shade of doubt in the minds of any small-craft skipper for leagues around that they are in the presence of, well, the Master of a Yacht; it is not an introverted watch by any stretch of the imagination.

On top of everything else, the Yacht-Master II has a complication that pretty much no watch guy or gal ever can remember what do with, or has a perceived need for: it is a regatta timer, which is about as niche a complication as you can imagine. If you get a bunch of watch nuts together there is an excellent chance that you can get a more lucid explanation out of somebody for the Equation of Time than you can for a regatta timer (which is saying something) and it says something about the relative obscurity of the complication in general, and the relative niche-ness of the Yacht-Master II in particular, that when we got it into the office we had five people who live and breathe watches sitting around scratching our heads because no one could quite remember how the darned thing works. You put all those things together and you should have a watch that a dyed-in-the-wool horological classicist should thoroughly disdain. Right?

Actually, wrong. But let’s back up a bit.

First of all this is technically a very interesting watch and it’s worth your attention just on the level of interesting horological problem solving alone. A regatta timer is used by the skipper of a yacht to determine when their vessel is allowed to cross the starting line. Sailboats can’t just hover at the starting line of a yacht race, so what happens is that the racing committee establishes a countdown period during which the boats have to tack back and forth at the starting line without actually crossing; if you cross early, there is a penalty and if you are too cautious and cross late you will probably cross the finish line behind the boats that made it over the start line ahead of you. The countdown can be anywhere from five to ten minutes depending on the rules and race.

The Yacht-Master II is a programmable, flyback regatta timer that allows you to select a countdown interval of anything from one to ten minutes; in addition if you have started the countdown early or late, you can synchronize your watch “on the fly” when you hear the second of the two audible signals which are usually given at the start of a race (the signal to start the countdown comes first, and is usually followed by a warning signal closer to the start). Here’s how it works.

To set the countdown timer, you turn the bezel (Rolex calls it the "Command Bezel") a quarter turn to the left. This locks the lower chrono pusher and engages the setting mechanism for the triangular red countdown hand. You then unscrew the crown to its first position, and set the countdown hand – setting is one-way only but at 10 minutes, if you continue to turn the crown, the countdown hand will fly back to 1 and you can continue until you reach the desired number of minutes. When you’re done, you screw the crown back down, and turn the bezel back to its starting position, and you’re ready to regatta.

When the first gun (or other audible signal) is heard, you start the countdown . . . and that’s it. Now a really neat trick here is that you may, for some reason, have started your countdown too early, or too late. If that’s the case, all you have to do is wait for the second gun/signal, and hit the re-set button – the seconds hand will fly back to the zero mark and begin running again immediately; and the minute countdown hand will fly back to the nearest minute and likewise start counting down again. It’s the fact that the flyback is to the nearest minute, not to zero, that allows you to re-synch your countdown with the official countdown time, that gives the Yacht-Master II much of its utility, and much of its technical interest.

Okay, sure it’s technically interesting – but what about the aesthetics? All I can tell you is that, much to my very pleasant surprise, it was colossally fun to wear in every sense of the word. The fact that it is so unapologetically extroverted is actually the secret to its appeal.  The weight isn't a problem (at least, not for me, and not in steel) and I found I could wear it all day without discomfort despite the overall size – partly thanks to the downward curvature of the lugs, which ensured a comfortable fit on my 7 inch wrist.  The sharply contrasting deep blued hands, white dial, and red countdown hand – and, yes, that bright blue bezel – give the whole watch a suitably jaunty, nautical feel and make it a pleasure to look at (and at night visibility is very good; the lume on the hands and dial is almost startlingly bright).

Yes, this is an extroverted watch, but the quality of execution is very clean and very high (as is usually the case with Rolex) and it’s so much the opposite of what I’d ordinarily wear that having it on gave a feeling almost like a Walter Mitty fantasy coming to life. I felt like a guy who’s worn a blue suit and rep tie and driven a four door Merc his whole life, who somehow one day finds himself in a pair of ripped jeans and a beat up flight jacket, cruising down some winding secondary road on an old shovelhead Harley, and suddenly catches himself thinking, My god, all the wasted years. Ultimately I started to feel that objecting to the over-the-top-ness  of the Yacht-Master II was silly, even narcissistic – if you go into a Joss Whedon actioner expecting a Lars Von Trier art-house tearjerker to unspool, you probably have only yourself to blame.

It is a rationally appealing uitlitarian tool watch? I'm not the one to ask. There is no way for me to evaluate what someone who actually owns a ’36 Herreshoff classic yacht and takes it on the regatta circuit would actually think of the Yacht-Master II, or whether they would find it useful. But I can tell you that it is actually a ton of fun to wear, and a big part of the reason is the very thing many object to at first – that this is a watch that pulls no punches when it comes to being larger than life.

It has that one most essential element for something to be a successful style exercise: the courage of its convictions, and if you think of yourself resolutely as a smaller-than-forty millimeter, tasteful restraint kinda guy, get one on your wrist for a surprisingly refreshing change of pace, and you can feel larger than life too.

The Rolex Yacht-Master II 116680 as shown, $18,750, 44 mm diameter case in 904L stainless steel. Bidirectional rotatable "Command Bezel" with blue Cerachrom insert; water resistance 100 meters/10 bar.

Movement, Rolex 4161 self-winding programmable flyback regatta timer with mechanical memory and "on-the-fly" synchronization; Parachrom blue antimagnetic balance spring.  

Bracelet, Oyster, flat three piece links with Oysterlock safety clasp.

More info, of course, on Rolex.com .

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Rolex Yacht-Master 116621 Two-Tone Everose Gold/Steel and Brown Dial – Hands-On

The big novelty from Rolex at Baselworld 2016 was… you guessed it: the Daytona Ceramic Bezel 116500LN  – a very nice watch sure, but still just a simple cosmetic evolution of an existing model. However, there were of course some other watches to discover. One of these models in particular has always managed to stay a bit under the radar, the Yacht-Master, a watch that has never really found favor with Rolex purists. Last year, it was revamped by the Crown, with the introduction of an Everose / Ceramic version . While we were expecting it to be introduced in steel in 2016 , Rolex decided differently and instead unveiled the new Rolex Yacht-Master 116621 Two-Tone Everose Gold / Steel and Chocolate Dial.

What is the Rolex Yacht-Master? A bit of history

In 1992, at Baselworld, Rolex introduced a brand new model named the Yacht-Master. Now, if you know anything about Rolex, you know that the introduction of an entirely new model is not something that occurs very often. Rolex has a collection of iconic and purpose-built watches and, mostly, they improve and redesign these existing watches. In fact, a new model is so rare that, when this Yacht-Master was introduced in 1992, it was the first real novelty (and here I mean “entirely new watch”) since 1964, when the Daytona made its debut. It took Rolex 28 years to create a new model… or at least one with a new name, because, objectively, this Yacht-Master felt (and still feels) quite familiar.

This wasn’t the first time the name Yacht-Master was mentioned at Rolex however. In the late 1960s, the brand developed a nautical-inspired Daytona, with regatta counter, also named Yacht-Master – a chronograph that however remained at the prototype stage and was never commercialized. A sort of tribute to this rare bird can be seen in the current Yacht-Master II, also a nautical-inspired chronograph with regatta complication.

The first execution (1992) Rolex yacht-Master 16628 Yellow Gold

The modern-day version of the Yacht-Master made its first appearance with the ref. 16628, an 18k yellow gold version with white dial and black hour indexes. The design of this watch feels quite familiar, so it’s easy to speculate about the inspiration and the positioning of this Yacht-Master in the collection. Some stories ( and keep in mind that there’s nothing official here ) say that Rolex, during the 1980’s, experimented with tons of different options to revamp the iconic Submariner. Several attempts later, something close to the Yacht-Master appeared, however, Rolex felt that redesigning the Sub was probably not the right move. When you have an icon, you don’t want to kill it. However, the design proposed was pleasing to Rolex and they looked at options to commercialize it. It had to be slightly different from a Sub of course, so as not to cannibalize it. The decision was made therefore that this watch should be positioned as a sort of luxurious nautical watch, mixing attributes of a dive watch with the ability to be used at the yacht-club or on the deck of a super-yacht.

The distinction was simple: steel case water-resistant to 300m, black bezel, black dial and tool-ish characteristics for the Submariner. Gold case water-resistant to 100m, bright dial, solid gold bezel and luxurious characteristics (mainly due to more rounded shapes) for the Yacht-Master. For the rest, both watches were rather close: the same 3135 movement, the same dial layout, the same hands, the same 60-minute bezel (but here, bidirectional). It’s possible this close resemblance to the Submariner might be the reason why the Yacht-Master was so unpopular in comparison. This is why, over the years, it has evolved with different materials and more colors (two-tone Rolesor, blue dial, ladies’ and mid-size versions… things that the Submariner does not have).

The latest evolution of the Yacht-Master, the 116655 with ceramic bezel and Oysterflex strap

The most famous version of the Rolex Yacht-Master was introduced in 1999, under the reference 16622: steel case, steel bracelet, solid platinum bezel and platinum dial with sparkling finish. At Baselworld 2012, the brand came with a refreshed version, with maxi-dial and maxi-case, as well as a cobalt-blue dial option. Finally, a major evolution came in 2015, with the introduction of the Everose version , with black dial, black ceramic bezel insert and Oysterflex (rubber) bracelet – a new design that dramatically changed the perception of this watch.

The 2016 Rolex Yacht-Master 116621

What Rolex introduced this year is the Rolex Yacht-Master 116621 Everose Rolesor Chocolate dial. What does it mean, in ‘Rolex’ language? It means that we have a two-tone version ( Rolesor ) combining stainless steel and Everose Gold ( Rolex’s own rose gold alloy ) with a dark brown dial – a combination often used by the brand. It is not the first time that Rolex has used this Rolesor design on the Yacht-Master, as versions combining steel and yellow gold, with a white, grey, blue or gold dial, already exist. However, with this Rolex Yacht-Master 116621, it is the first time that Rolex offers a Rolesor Everose version of the model.

At Rolex, Rolesor means two-tone watches, described as such: “ Rolesor is the auspicious meeting of two metals on a single Rolex watch: gold and steel (…) The concept is simple: the bezel, the winding crown and the centre bracelet links are made of 18 ct yellow or Everose gold (Rolex’s exclusive pink gold alloy); the middle case and the outer links of the bracelet are made of 904L stainless steel. ” Thus, you would expect that this Rolex Yacht-Master 116621 follows those rules… Of course, it features a central case and a bracelet with satined outer links in steel. It also features Everose polished central links and bezel. However, the crown remains steel (which was the case already on the previous two-tone version ref. 16623). Look at all Rolesor watches by Rolex and you’ll see that the Yacht-Master, including this ref. 116621, is the exception. Nevertheless, I have to admit that, personally, I prefer the crown to be steel instead of gold, as I always felt this gold touch to be quite awkward.

The case is the usual Yacht-Master design, with a 40mm diameter and rather rounded lugs (while modern Submariners or GMT-Masters have bulky, squarish lugs) positioning this watch in the more luxurious category, strong crown protection guards – also rounded – and an abundance of polished surfaces (only the bracelet features satined surfaces). The bezel is the most striking design touch of this watch. It is now machined from a solid block of Everose gold but still with the same style as before: large, raised numerals, their polished surfaces contrasting nicely against the sand-blasted background. This has always been a distinctive point of this watch, compared to the Submariner – and the main aspect that made this watch more elegant and dressier than the Subs. Nevertheless, the bezel is bidirectional but, with its 60-minute scale, allows for recreational diving sessions.

With this Rolex Yacht-Master 116621, the brand opted for a safe combination, with a dark brown “chocolate” toned dial. This combination of Rose gold and brown dial has been widely used by the Crown. It gives the watch a warm aspect and a luxurious touch. The dial is finished with a sun-ray pattern, which affords gorgeous reflections in natural light conditions. The indexes, hands and Rolex logo are gold, allowing for great contrast and legibility. Traditional for this watch, the name of the model is printed in red, making it rather discreet. The date is displayed at 3 and, as always with the Crown, placed under a cyclops.

On the wrist, the Yacht-Master is very comfortable (thanks to the rounded lugs and crown guard) and offers a great combination of sports and luxury, which makes it a quite interesting weekend watch. Perfect for those who are not actively using their timepieces (for that, go for a Submariner) but who still want to be safe in case of an impromptu jump in the harbor. In fact, in this chocolate / Everose Rolesor combination, the watch gains a certain elegance and refinement, clearly setting it apart from the Submariner – and thus, making highly desirable. It perfectly deserves its name as a nautical-inspired watch that was not designed to be a tool watch.

As part of the new collection, this Rolex Yacht-Master 116621 also benefits from the latest technological features of the brand, including of course the blue Parachrom spiral as well as the new Superlative Chronometer certification (guaranteeing that the watch runs in the -2/+2 s/day range) and the 5-year warranty.

The Rolex Yacht-Master 116621 Two-Tone Everose Gold / Steel with Chocolate Dial can only be ordered in 40mm and for a price of 12,900 Euros or 13,400 CHF . Rolex.com .

Specifications of the Rolex Yacht-Master 116621

• Case : 40mm Oyster case – Rolesor Everose (combination of rose gold and steel) – bidirectional 60-minute bezel in rose gold – sapphire crystal on the front, plain caseback – 100m water resistant
• Movement : Calibre 3135, in-house – Superlative Chronometer certification – automatic – 4Hz frequency – 48h power reserve – hours, minutes, second and date
• Bracelet : two-tone (steel and rose gold) Oyster bracelet, with Osyterlock clasp and Easylink quite extension

2 responses

Lovely watches. Amazing price differences. The 116655 in 40mm is over £18,000 (uk) yet the 116621 in 40mm is a much lower £10,300 (uk).

Rolex Yachtmaster bezel is BIDIRECTIONAL ROTATABLE !!!

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Yacht-Master II

Created for competition

The Yacht-Master II is the only chronograph in the world featuring a programmable countdown with a mechanical memory. An essential tool for skippers to gauge their best course of action.

Ring Command system

Rolex achieved perfection when it turned its attention to redefining the purpose and functionality of the bezel. Typically, a bezel operates independently from the internal mechanism; however, the Ring Command bezel in the Yacht-Master II regatta chronograph operates in conjunction with it.

As a mechanical component linked to the movement, the bezel literally acts as the key to the programmable countdown, allowing it to be set and synchronised to the sequence of race start times. Complex in design, but simple in use, it is functionally beautiful.

The countdown’s sophisticated functions were designed to be easily set and operated. The preliminary programming of up to 10 minutes is accessed, and then locked, via the rotatable bezel thanks to Ring Command, a patented system of interaction between the bezel, the winding crown and the movement, developed by Rolex. A technical feat made possible by the brand’s in-house mastery of the entire watch design and manufacturing process, from the case to the movement.

A distinctive aesthetic

The Yacht-Master II’s countdown can be programmed for a duration of between 1 and 10 minutes. The programming is memorized by the mechanism so that at a reset it returns to the previous setting. Once launched, the countdown can be synchronized on the fly to match the official race countdown.

On the right-hand side of the middle case, the Yacht-Master II sports two countdown pushers, specially designed to suggest winches, the manual winding gear on a sail boat. The Yacht-Master II is always fitted on an Oyster bracelet with a Oysterlock safety clasp, equipped with an Easylink comfort extension link.

The Yacht-Master II measures 44 mm in diameter, its large size contributing to the optimal legibility of the dial in all conditions.

Cerachrom bezel insert

The blue monobloc Cerachrom bezel insert of the Yacht-Master II is made of an extremely hard, virtually scratchproof ceramic whose colour is unaffected by ultraviolet rays, seawater or water that is chlorinated. In addition, thanks to its chemical composition, the high-tech ceramic is inert and cannot corrode. The numerals and inscriptions are moulded in the ceramic and coloured with gold or platinum using a PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) process.

Oyster bracelet

The Oyster bracelet is a perfect alchemy of form and function, aesthetics and technology, designed to be both robust and comfortable. It is equipped with an Oysterlock folding clasp, which prevents accidental opening and the Easylink comfort extension link, also exclusive to Rolex. This ingenious system allows the wearer to increase the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm, providing additional comfort in any circumstance.

Complex in design, but simple in use, the Ring Command bezel is functionally beautiful.

Calibre 4161 Superlative movement

The Yacht-Master II is equipped with calibre 4161, a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Its architecture, manufacturing quality and innovative features make it exceptionally precise and reliable. This abundance of Rolex technology includes a patented function – a programmable countdown with a mechanical memory – and comprises some 360 components. Some of them are made by UV-LiGA, a micromanufacturing technology entirely mastered in-house by Rolex.

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Rolex Chronographs: Daytona vs. Yacht-Master II

The Daytona is, without a doubt, Rolex’s most famous chronograph model. However, it is sometimes overlooked that a Rolex does, in fact, manufacture another chronograph collection – the Yacht-Master II. While both are technically chronograph watches, they are actually very different timepieces, both inside and out. Today we will be comparing the brand’s duo of contemporary chronograph models, the Rolex Daytona vs. Yacht-Master II.

So, how do these two Rolex chronograph watches differ when it comes to their designs and functionality? Let’s find out as we review these stylish used Rolex watch models .

Origins: Daytona vs. Yacht-Master II

Rolex first unleashed the Cosmograph Daytona in 1963 as a chronograph dedicated to motorsports. However, as manually-wound models with 38mm cases, vintage Daytona watches are significantly different from the versions of today. It was only in 2000 that we saw the first iterations of today’s Daytona models; that is to say, 40mm watches that run on in-house automatic chronograph movements.

These editions of the Rolex Daytona collection carry six-digit reference numbers and are powered by the Caliber 4130. Prior to this generation, there were the five-digit Daytona models fitted with Rolex-modified, Zenith El Primero automatic movements, which were produced from 1988 until 2000.

In total, the Daytona utilizes three different generations of movements. First was the hand-wound generation, followed by the automatic Zenith generation, and then the automatic in-house Rolex caliber 4130. The collection has one of the most intriguing histories on the market, spanning decades and producing countless design variations, and even the famous Paul Newman Daytona that fetched one of the highest sums on the secondary market of nearly $18 million.

On the other hand, the Yacht-Master II is a relatively new Rolex model, having made its debut in 2007. What’s more, when it was released, the Yacht-Master II was Rolex’s largest watch, sporting a 44mm case. As its name implies, the Rolex Yacht-Master II was developed for the sailing crowd, rather than the automobile racing crew. In addition to its over-the-top case size and design, the Yacht-Master II was also the brand’s most complex watch (until the introduction of the Sky-Dweller in 2012), equipped with a regatta chronograph, complete with mechanical memory and fly-back functionality for facilitated synchronization.

Design: Daytona vs. Yacht-Master II

The Daytona’s 40mm case comes fitted with a pair of screw-down chronograph pushers flanking its screw-down winding crown. This is to keep any moisture out of the watch, ensuring its 100-meter water resistance. The fixed bezels of the Daytona watches – crafted from either metal or Cerachrom (ceramic) – are engraved with a tachymeter scale (except for the gem-set bezel editions), while the dials house a trio of subsidiary registers.

In true Rolex fashion, there are plenty of different dial colors and index styles to choose from. Material options within the six-digit Daytona family include stainless steel, yellow gold, white gold, Everose gold, two-tone steel and yellow gold, and platinum. Most Daytona models come with metal Oyster bracelets however, there are some gold Daytona watches that are presented on black rubber Oysterflex bracelets as well. Rolex previously manufactured leather-strap versions but they are no longer in production.

In direct contrast to the Daytona’s classic looks and restrained proportions, the Yacht-Master II is proudly big, bold, and badass. Its bezel – either in bright blue Cerachrom (ceramic) or platinum – sits on the 44mm case and is emblazoned with the “YACHT-MASTER II” name, along with numbers 1 – 10. The white dial with red and blue accents offers three distinct areas for three readings: the center hands, the 10-minute countdown display, and the running seconds sub-dial.

Early editions of the Yacht-Master II included straight hour and minute hands until around 2017, while current versions have the familiar Mercedes-style hands. The hour markers received a small upgrade from blue to white gold surrounds to match the hands. Additionally, Rolex replaced the square hour marker at 12 o’clock with an inverted triangle and the marker at 6 o’clock with a slightly elongated baton hour marker. Material choices of the Yacht-Master II include yellow gold, white gold (with a platinum bezel), stainless steel, and two-tone Everose gold and steel. Additionally, all Yacht-Master II watches come with matching metal Oyster bracelets.

Calibers and Functionality: Daytona vs. Yacht-Master II

Manufactured entirely in-house, the Daytona’s Caliber 4130 has been heralded by many watch enthusiasts as one of the most reliable and robust automatic chronograph movements on the market. One of its defining features is the use of a vertical (rather than lateral) clutch to activate the chronograph. This not only permits the chronograph hand to run smoothly without any signs of “jittering,” but also allows the chronograph function to run for a long time with no influence on the Daytona’s precision. Thanks to Caliber 4130, the Daytona features a chronograph hand accurate to within 1/8 of a second, a 30-minute counter at 3, a 12-hour counter at 9, a small seconds register at 6, and a power reserve of 72 hours.

When Rolex launched the Yacht-Master II in 2007, inside the watch was the Caliber 4160, which was then upgraded to Caliber 4161 in 2013. While these in-house chronograph calibers are based on the Caliber 4130, they are much more complex in terms of functionality. Rolex maintains that the Caliber 4160/4161 was the result of over 35,000 hours of development.

Most intriguing, the bezel on the Yacht-Master II is not just for show. Instead, turning it allows the user to flip through what functions of the watch to set. And one of these functions includes a programmable countdown timer (from 1 – 10 minutes), which also memorizes the desired setting t when you reset the timer. So, if you love a seven-minute jammy egg or a four-minute brew, then your Yacht-Master II is there for you.

The central chronograph hand also has flyback functionality, which means that you can reset it back to zero with the press of a single button while it is in motion. Additionally, just like its base caliber, the Cal. 4160/4161 also has a 72-hour power reserve.

While both chronographs have countless everyday applications, they cater to two totally different niches. The Daytona, with its motorsport roots, was initially developed to help the wearer record various stats while driving, such as speed, distance traveled, and elapsed time. On the other hand, the Yacht-Master II was inspired by regatta and features a race countdown mechanism.

How to Use The Bezels on Daytona vs. Yacht-Master II

The Daytona bezel is fixed, so its primary function relies on the chronograph movement. To activate the chronograph, press the top pusher above the crown. The chronograph seconds hand will start to race around the dial. The top pusher will also stop the chronograph while the bottom pusher resets it to zero. For example, to measure speed, simply activate the chronograph by pressing the top pusher. Once you’ve driven a mile, stop the chronograph by pressing the top pusher again. The chronograph hand will point to the corresponding speed on the Tachymeter bezel.

The Yacht-Master II bezel is connected to the movement and it is often referred to as a “Ring Command Bezel.” To use the programmable regatta countdown, you first need to unscrew the crown and rotate the bezel counterclockwise 90 degrees. Then, press the bottom pusher and turn the crown clockwise to move the arrow hand to the desired 10-minute count-down increment. Once the bezel is rotated back to its original position and the crown is screwed back into the case, you can press the top pusher to start or stop the countdown. The chronograph seconds hand will begin to move around the dial, once every minute. The famous flyback and fly-forward functionality is engaged by pressing the bottom pusher, sending the arrow hand backwards or forwards to the nearest minute in the countdown.

Side-by-side, these two Rolex chronographs look nothing alike. The Daytona offers traditional chronograph styling and functionality, while the Yacht-Master II is more aggressively designed and offers a niche complication in the form of a regatta chronograph. So, which one would be your pick?

About Paul Altieri

Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. He is widely considered a pioneer in the industry for bringing transparency and innovation to a once-considered stagnant industry. His experience spans over 35 years and he has been published in numerous publications including Forbes, The NY Times, WatchPro, and Fortune Magazine. Paul is committed to staying up-to-date with the latest research and developments in the watch industry and e-commerce, and regularly engages with other professionals in the industry. He is a member of the IWJG, the AWCI and a graduate of the GIA. Alongside running the premier retailer of pre-owned Rolex watches, Paul is a prominent Rolex watch collector himself amassing one of the largest private collections of rare timepieces. In an interview with the WSJ lifestyle/fashion editor Christina Binkley, Paul opened his vault to display his extensive collection of vintage Rolex Submariners and Daytonas. Paul Altieri is a trusted and recognized authority in the watch industry with a proven track record of expertise, professionalism, and commitment to excellence.

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In Transit: Notes from the Underground

Jun 06 2018.

Spend some time in one of Moscow’s finest museums.

Subterranean commuting might not be anyone’s idea of a good time, but even in a city packing the war-games treasures and priceless bejeweled eggs of the Kremlin Armoury and the colossal Soviet pavilions of the VDNKh , the Metro holds up as one of Moscow’s finest museums. Just avoid rush hour.

The Metro is stunning and provides an unrivaled insight into the city’s psyche, past and present, but it also happens to be the best way to get around. Moscow has Uber, and the Russian version called Yandex Taxi , but also some nasty traffic. Metro trains come around every 90 seconds or so, at a more than 99 percent on-time rate. It’s also reasonably priced, with a single ride at 55 cents (and cheaper in bulk). From history to tickets to rules — official and not — here’s what you need to know to get started.

A Brief Introduction Buying Tickets Know Before You Go (Down) Rules An Easy Tour

A Brief Introduction

Moscow’s Metro was a long time coming. Plans for rapid transit to relieve the city’s beleaguered tram system date back to the Imperial era, but a couple of wars and a revolution held up its development. Stalin revived it as part of his grand plan to modernize the Soviet Union in the 1920s and 30s. The first lines and tunnels were constructed with help from engineers from the London Underground, although Stalin’s secret police decided that they had learned too much about Moscow’s layout and had them arrested on espionage charges and deported.

The beauty of its stations (if not its trains) is well-documented, and certainly no accident. In its illustrious first phases and particularly after the Second World War, the greatest architects of Soviet era were recruited to create gleaming temples celebrating the Revolution, the USSR, and the war triumph. No two stations are exactly alike, and each of the classic showpieces has a theme. There are world-famous shrines to Futurist architecture, a celebration of electricity, tributes to individuals and regions of the former Soviet Union. Each marble slab, mosaic tile, or light fixture was placed with intent, all in service to a station’s aesthetic; each element, f rom the smallest brass ear of corn to a large blood-spattered sword on a World War II mural, is an essential part of the whole.

The Metro is a monument to the Soviet propaganda project it was intended to be when it opened in 1935 with the slogan “Building a Palace for the People”. It brought the grand interiors of Imperial Russia to ordinary Muscovites, celebrated the Soviet Union’s past achievements while promising its citizens a bright Soviet future, and of course, it was a show-piece for the world to witness the might and sophistication of life in the Soviet Union.

It may be a museum, but it’s no relic. U p to nine million people use it daily, more than the London Underground and New York Subway combined. (Along with, at one time, about 20 stray dogs that learned to commute on the Metro.)

In its 80+ year history, the Metro has expanded in phases and fits and starts, in step with the fortunes of Moscow and Russia. Now, partly in preparation for the World Cup 2018, it’s also modernizing. New trains allow passengers to walk the entire length of the train without having to change carriages. The system is becoming more visitor-friendly. (There are helpful stickers on the floor marking out the best selfie spots .) But there’s a price to modernity: it’s phasing out one of its beloved institutions, the escalator attendants. Often they are middle-aged or elderly women—“ escalator grandmas ” in news accounts—who have held the post for decades, sitting in their tiny kiosks, scolding commuters for bad escalator etiquette or even bad posture, or telling jokes . They are slated to be replaced, when at all, by members of the escalator maintenance staff.

For all its achievements, the Metro lags behind Moscow’s above-ground growth, as Russia’s capital sprawls ever outwards, generating some of the world’s worst traffic jams . But since 2011, the Metro has been in the middle of an ambitious and long-overdue enlargement; 60 new stations are opening by 2020. If all goes to plan, the 2011-2020 period will have brought 125 miles of new tracks and over 100 new stations — a 40 percent increase — the fastest and largest expansion phase in any period in the Metro’s history.

Facts: 14 lines Opening hours: 5 a.m-1 a.m. Rush hour(s): 8-10 a.m, 4-8 p.m. Single ride: 55₽ (about 85 cents) Wi-Fi network-wide

Buying Tickets

• Ticket machines have a button to switch to English.
• You can buy specific numbers of rides: 1, 2, 5, 11, 20, or 60. Hold up fingers to show how many rides you want to buy.
• There is also a 90-minute ticket , which gets you 1 trip on the metro plus an unlimited number of transfers on other transport (bus, tram, etc) within 90 minutes.
• Or, you can buy day tickets with unlimited rides: one day (218₽/ US$4), three days (415₽/US$7) or seven days (830₽/US$15). Check the rates here to stay up-to-date.
• If you’re going to be using the Metro regularly over a few days, it’s worth getting a Troika card , a contactless, refillable card you can use on all public transport. Using the Metro is cheaper with one of these: a single ride is 36₽, not 55₽. Buy them and refill them in the Metro stations, and they’re valid for 5 years, so you can keep it for next time. Or, if you have a lot of cash left on it when you leave, you can get it refunded at the Metro Service Centers at Ulitsa 1905 Goda, 25 or at Staraya Basmannaya 20, Building 1.
• You can also buy silicone bracelets and keychains with built-in transport chips that you can use as a Troika card. (A Moscow Metro Fitbit!) So far, you can only get these at the Pushkinskaya metro station Live Helpdesk and souvenir shops in the Mayakovskaya and Trubnaya metro stations. The fare is the same as for the Troika card.
• You can also use Apple Pay and Samsung Pay.

Rules, spoken and unspoken

No smoking, no drinking, no filming, no littering. Photography is allowed, although it used to be banned.

Stand to the right on the escalator. Break this rule and you risk the wrath of the legendary escalator attendants. (No shenanigans on the escalators in general.)

Get out of the way. Find an empty corner to hide in when you get off a train and need to stare at your phone. Watch out getting out of the train in general; when your train doors open, people tend to appear from nowhere or from behind ornate marble columns, walking full-speed.

Always offer your seat to elderly ladies (what are you, a monster?).

An Easy Tour

This is no Metro Marathon ( 199 stations in 20 hours ). It’s an easy tour, taking in most—though not all—of the notable stations, the bulk of it going clockwise along the Circle line, with a couple of short detours. These stations are within minutes of one another, and the whole tour should take about 1-2 hours.

Start at Mayakovskaya Metro station , at the corner of Tverskaya and Garden Ring,  Triumfalnaya Square, Moskva, Russia, 125047.

1. Mayakovskaya.  Named for Russian Futurist Movement poet Vladimir Mayakovsky and an attempt to bring to life the future he imagined in his poems. (The Futurist Movement, natch, was all about a rejecting the past and celebrating all things speed, industry, modern machines, youth, modernity.) The result: an Art Deco masterpiece that won the National Grand Prix for architecture at the New York World’s Fair in 1939. It’s all smooth, rounded shine and light, and gentle arches supported by columns of dark pink marble and stainless aircraft steel. Each of its 34 ceiling niches has a mosaic. During World War II, the station was used as an air-raid shelter and, at one point, a bunker for Stalin. He gave a subdued but rousing speech here in Nov. 6, 1941 as the Nazis bombed the city above.

Take the 3/Green line one station to:

2. Belorusskaya. Opened in 1952, named after the connected Belarussky Rail Terminal, which runs trains between Moscow and Belarus. This is a light marble affair with a white, cake-like ceiling, lined with Belorussian patterns and 12 Florentine ceiling mosaics depicting life in Belarussia when it was built.

Transfer onto the 1/Brown line. Then, one stop (clockwise) t o:

3. Novoslobodskaya.  This station was designed around the stained-glass panels, which were made in Latvia, because Alexey Dushkin, the Soviet starchitect who dreamed it up (and also designed Mayakovskaya station) couldn’t find the glass and craft locally. The stained glass is the same used for Riga’s Cathedral, and the panels feature plants, flowers, members of the Soviet intelligentsia (musician, artist, architect) and geometric shapes.

Go two stops east on the 1/Circle line to:

4. Komsomolskaya. Named after the Komsomol, or the Young Communist League, this might just be peak Stalin Metro style. Underneath the hub for three regional railways, it was intended to be a grand gateway to Moscow and is today its busiest station. It has chandeliers; a yellow ceiling with Baroque embellishments; and in the main hall, a colossal red star overlaid on golden, shimmering tiles. Designer Alexey Shchusev designed it as an homage to the speech Stalin gave at Red Square on Nov. 7, 1941, in which he invoked Russia’s illustrious military leaders as a pep talk to Soviet soldiers through the first catastrophic year of the war.   The station’s eight large mosaics are of the leaders referenced in the speech, such as Alexander Nevsky, a 13th-century prince and military commander who bested German and Swedish invading armies.

One more stop clockwise to Kurskaya station,  and change onto the 3/Blue  line, and go one stop to:

5. Baumanskaya.   Opened in 1944. Named for the Bolshevik Revolutionary Nikolai Bauman , whose monument and namesake district are aboveground here. Though he seemed like a nasty piece of work (he apparently once publicly mocked a woman he had impregnated, who later hung herself), he became a Revolutionary martyr when he was killed in 1905 in a skirmish with a monarchist, who hit him on the head with part of a steel pipe. The station is in Art Deco style with atmospherically dim lighting, and a series of bronze sculptures of soldiers and homefront heroes during the War. At one end, there is a large mosaic portrait of Lenin.

Stay on that train direction one more east to:

6. Elektrozavodskaya. As you may have guessed from the name, this station is the Metro’s tribute to all thing electrical, built in 1944 and named after a nearby lightbulb factory. It has marble bas-relief sculptures of important figures in electrical engineering, and others illustrating the Soviet Union’s war-time struggles at home. The ceiling’s recurring rows of circular lamps give the station’s main tunnel a comforting glow, and a pleasing visual effect.

Double back two stops to Kurskaya station , and change back to the 1/Circle line. Sit tight for six stations to:

7. Kiyevskaya. This was the last station on the Circle line to be built, in 1954, completed under Nikita Khrushchev’ s guidance, as a tribute to his homeland, Ukraine. Its three large station halls feature images celebrating Ukraine’s contributions to the Soviet Union and Russo-Ukrainian unity, depicting musicians, textile-working, soldiers, farmers. (One hall has frescoes, one mosaics, and the third murals.) Shortly after it was completed, Khrushchev condemned the architectural excesses and unnecessary luxury of the Stalin era, which ushered in an epoch of more austere Metro stations. According to the legend at least, he timed the policy in part to ensure no Metro station built after could outshine Kiyevskaya.

Change to the 3/Blue line and go one stop west.

8. Park Pobedy. This is the deepest station on the Metro, with one of the world’s longest escalators, at 413 feet. If you stand still, the escalator ride to the surface takes about three minutes .) Opened in 2003 at Victory Park, the station celebrates two of Russia’s great military victories. Each end has a mural by Georgian artist Zurab Tsereteli, who also designed the “ Good Defeats Evil ” statue at the UN headquarters in New York. One mural depicts the Russian generals’ victory over the French in 1812 and the other, the German surrender of 1945. The latter is particularly striking; equal parts dramatic, triumphant, and gruesome. To the side, Red Army soldiers trample Nazi flags, and if you look closely there’s some blood spatter among the detail. Still, the biggest impressions here are the marble shine of the chessboard floor pattern and the pleasingly geometric effect if you view from one end to the other.

Keep going one more stop west to:

9. Slavyansky Bulvar.  One of the Metro’s youngest stations, it opened in 2008. With far higher ceilings than many other stations—which tend to have covered central tunnels on the platforms—it has an “open-air” feel (or as close to it as you can get, one hundred feet under). It’s an homage to French architect Hector Guimard, he of the Art Nouveau entrances for the Paris M é tro, and that’s precisely what this looks like: A Moscow homage to the Paris M é tro, with an additional forest theme. A Cyrillic twist on Guimard’s Metro-style lettering over the benches, furnished with t rees and branch motifs, including creeping vines as towering lamp-posts.

Stay on the 3/Blue line and double back four stations to:

10. Arbatskaya. Its first iteration, Arbatskaya-Smolenskaya station, was damaged by German bombs in 1941. It was rebuilt in 1953, and designed to double as a bomb shelter in the event of nuclear war, although unusually for stations built in the post-war phase, this one doesn’t have a war theme. It may also be one of the system’s most elegant: Baroque, but toned down a little, with red marble floors and white ceilings with gilded bronze c handeliers.

Jump back on the 3/Blue line  in the same direction and take it one more stop:

11. Ploshchad Revolyutsii (Revolution Square). Opened in 1938, and serving Red Square and the Kremlin . Its renowned central hall has marble columns flanked by 76 bronze statues of Soviet heroes: soldiers, students, farmers, athletes, writers, parents. Some of these statues’ appendages have a yellow sheen from decades of Moscow’s commuters rubbing them for good luck. Among the most popular for a superstitious walk-by rub: the snout of a frontier guard’s dog, a soldier’s gun (where the touch of millions of human hands have tapered the gun barrel into a fine, pointy blade), a baby’s foot, and a woman’s knee. (A brass rooster also sports the telltale gold sheen, though I am told that rubbing the rooster is thought to bring bad luck. )

Now take the escalator up, and get some fresh air.

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