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New Rolex Watches for 2023: Everything You Need to Know

Major releases and bold moves take the watch world by surprise.

By Zen Love

If you thought Rolex was conservative, think again. With this year’s releases, unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva , the brand resoundingly rebuffed its reserved reputation. It introduced major new products that broke with the codes we’ve come to expect from the brand — thrusting into 2023 with new materials, movements and colorways. Catch up on the most important announcements below.

This story covers watches that Rolex either launched or discontinued in 2023. For a full breakdown of the all the Rolex watches still in production, read our other guide , updated for 2023.

The Yacht-Master 42 is the titanium Rolex we were waiting for

The new Yacht-Master 42 is a big deal: it’s not the first serially produced Rolex watch in full titanium but it’s the first one meant for the masses — that is, that’s sized to be wearable as an everyday watch rather than affordable or necessarily easy to actually buy.

Monochromatic like a Submariner and on a full titanium bracelet, it also makes the Yacht-Master collection feel more like the true, purpose-built sport watches for which Rolex is most loved. Now that the brand has broken the seal on titanium, other favorites could be in the pipeline, too.

The Perpetual 1908 is a completely new line (replacing the Cellini)

The Cellini is dead; long live the Cellini. Seemingly in its place is a new, much simpler collection called Perpetual 1908. That’s right, an entirely new Rolex collection — and yet, it’s clearly replacing the Cellini with a very similar case and bezel.

Its dial is simple with a seconds subdial at 9 o’clock recalling some the brand’s earliest models, and its movement is completely new — and visible through a display caseback, another departure for the brand. It has an observatory or Breguet-style hour hand, a 39mm case and only comes in precious metals with a couple different dial options. This is now easily Rolex’s dressiest watch.

The Daytona got redesigned details and a new movement

The Daytona is one of the most hyped watches in the world, and it turns 60 this year. Something special to mark the occasion was expected, and that turned out to be some subtle but substantive tweaks. The new generation has a completely new movement, the first time the brand has updated the Daytona’s movement since it went in-house in 2000.

At first glance, it looks the same as the outgoing generation, but on closer inspection you’ll see some differences. The case is still 40mm but has updated details, and the dial has a “new graphic balance.” Like the new 1908 watch, the platinum version features a display caseback. And, yes, there are also new steel versions with black and white dials.

The Explorer now also comes in a 40mm version

First it was 36mm, then it was 39mm, then it was 36mm again — and now it’s 40mm. The 36mm version introduced only two years ago isn’t going away, but the new watch is simply adding more options.

Based on Rolex’s teaser video , we thought we might be getting an entirely new case design or might even come in titanium, but this really is the familiar Explorer in Oystersteel in a slightly bigger case. We’re okay with that.

The new GMT Master II introduces a completely new bezel color combo

The GMT Master II now comes with a new bezel combo of black and gray. This kind of thing might be Rolex’s big release in a typical year, but the brand has really gone all out for 2023.

The new GMT Master II references only come in two-tone (“Rolesor,” or a steel-and-gold combo) and full yellow gold. Many GMT Master II watches get nicknames based on their bicolor bezels; for this one, we humbly suggest “Dark Knight.”

The Sky-Dweller got a movement upgrade

The Sky-Dweller got some new variants and a movement upgrade with the Calibre 9002 (featuring minor updates from the 9001). That’s it; nothing major for this line, but we do like the way it looks with a green dial in Rolesor Oystersteel and white gold, as shown above.

Wild Dials on Day-Dates and Oyster Perpetuals

Rolex often includes a few exotic dials in the mix of its releases. This time the brand got a bit artistic with some of very colorful executions in the Oyster Perpetual and Day-Date families with dials executed in lacquer. The colorful circles on the dial, which Rolex calls “bubbles,” can be found on versions of the Oyster Perpetual in 31mm, 36mm and 41mm models. The Day-Date got a similar treatment but with puzzle pieces instead of bubbles and goes a step further in playfulness incorporating emojis into the date display (like hearts) and positive words (“Happy,” “Eternity,” “Gratitude,” “Peace,” “Faith,” “Love” and “Hope”) instead of the day of the week.

Cellini, Yacht-Master II and Milgauss are discontinued

Rolex giveth and Rolex taketh away. You don’t need to shed a tear for these long neglected and somewhat overshadowed collections. They’re gone for now, but that just leaves room for the possibility that they’ll return in the future with the likes of new generations. Well, that seems like a possibility for the Milgauss, anyway; the Cellini seems to have its replacement in the 1908, as mentioned above. As for the Yacht-Master II… who knows? A watch being discontinued can even lead to a boost in interest for it, after all.

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• March 27, 2023
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Introducing The Rolex Yacht Master 42 Titanium: The Ultimate Sailing Watch

Rolex yacht master 42 titanium.

The 2023 Rolex Yacht Master 42 Titanium is the newest addition to the Yacht Master series, which has been a favorite among sailors and yacht enthusiasts since its introduction in 1992. This new Rolex model features a 42mm case crafted from Rolex’s proprietary RLX Titanium, offering both a lightweight feel and unparalleled durability. Additionally the 2023 Rolex Yacht Master 42 Titanium watch is designed to withstand the harsh conditions of the open sea while maintaining its stunning appearance.

In this introduction article, we will explore the features, design, and specifications of the 2023 Rolex Yacht Master 42 Titanium, as well as the pricing and availability.

Discover the rest of the Rolex 2023 watches released.

Key Features of the 2023 Rolex Yacht Master 42 Titanium

Titanium case & bracelet construction.

The Oyster case and bracelet are crafted from a RLX Titanium, ensuring exceptional corrosion resistance, lightweight feel, and a comfortable fit on the wrist. The Rolex Yacht Master 42 Titanium is unique because it is the first Rolex in history to have a titanium construction. Many well known brands have used this lightweight material to the past, in good success, and many felt like it was about time Rolex do the same. In our opinion, the Rolex Yacht Master 42 Titanium might surpass the Rolex Submariner as the most durable Rolex in the family.

Satin Finish

This watch is without a doubt a tool watch through and through. The complete satin finish of the Rolex Yacht Master 42 Titanium exemplifies that. The hardness of titanium plus the satin/brushed finish will ensure that this watch maintains is look for a long time to come.

Cerachrom Bezel

The black unidirectional rotatable bezel is equipped with a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom insert in black ceramic, offering optimal legibility and resistance to scratches and fading. The design esthetics of this bezel are not new to Rolex but there is no need to change a good thing. This bezel is absolutely perfect for the Rolex Yacht Master 42 Titanium.

Calibre 3235 Movement

The 2023 Rolex Yacht Master 42 Titanium is powered by the cutting-edge Calibre 3235 movement, offering a 70-hour power reserve and a precision of -2/+2 seconds per day.

Water Resistance

With a water resistance of up to 100 meters (330 feet), the Yacht Master 42 Titanium is perfect for water-based activities and sailing adventures. Although it’s not a dive watch, you’ll never have any issues wearing this watch while competing in water sports.

Oysterlock Safety Clasp

The Oyster bracelet is equipped with an Oysterlock safety clasp, ensuring the watch remains securely on the wrist even in the most demanding conditions. This is extremely important while being located in deep water because if your watch were to fail, you would never see it again.

Chromalight Display

This watch features a Chromalight display with long-lasting blue luminescence, ensuring optimal legibility in low-light conditions. Have confidence knowing that either being out in the moonlight or at home in the dark, you will always be able to tell the time.

Pricing & Availability

The retail price for the Rolex Yacht Master 42 Titanium is $14,050 at authorized Rolex dealers worldwide. Expected demand for this model is high so expect to be put on a Rolex waitlis t if you are purchasing this model new.

Research tips on buying Rolex and how to improve on the waitlist.

This article was written with the assistance of AI, but all of the content has been reviewed and edited by me, the author Andrew Neita.

• 2023 New Watches , Rolex , rolex yacht master

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All of Rolex’s New Watches From Watches & Wonders 2024

Rolex just announced their novelties at the world's largest watch show in geneva..

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Rolex just announced its novelties for 2024, and these releases are confirming our take on Watches & Wonders as a moment of iterative updates of classic watches. The 2024 collection is decidedly nothing like the wild puzzle pieces and emoticons we saw from The Crown last year. The exception here may be the Daytona, which is studded with diamonds and sports what one could call a “Pearl Panda” dial (and, of course, its reverse).  The much anticipated GMT-Master II Coke (known for its red and black bezel) didn’t happen this year, but instead we get a lovely gray and black bezel (as seen on last year’s two-tone GMT-Master II) with a pop of Rolex’s signature green for the GMT hand and the option of an Oyster or a Jubilee bracelet—very classy.

If anyone was complaining last year that Rolex had strayed too far into the circus of color–that The Crown was just having too much fun flitting about—then this year proves that Rolex was always going to return to its quiet place at the center of the horological galaxy. Will this return to normalcy make any of these watches easier to get at retail? We will assume a resounding “hell no” to be the obvious answer. For many, including some of our own staff, these more conservative models will be the ones to own over the long haul, because they’ll remain timeless, versatile, and rugged companions—which, looking back over the past 100 years, is exactly what a Rolex was always meant to be.

Ladies and gentlemen, friends and family, please welcome the Rolex 2024 lineup to the stage.

GMT-Master II in Steel on Gray and Black Ceramic Bezel

Two new Oystersteel versions of the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II—one with an Oyster bracelet, the other with a Jubilee bracelet, both with a 24-hour graduated Cerachrom bezel insert in gray and black ceramic—will delight travelers with a sentimental streak for the understated steel GMTs of last century. As well as an alternative time zone, the green 24-hour hand points to a location that carries emotional significance for the wearer, which we simply call home. (Whether, for die-hard fans, that’ll be the manufacture’s HQ in the Acacias district of the city in which the piece has been unveiled remains to be seen!)

The same green hue is used for the GMT-Master II inscription upon the black lacquer dial, offering a second subtle flash of color on arguably the most elegantly muted iterations yet of a navigation tool watch first unveiled in 1982. But that’s not just any green; it’s Rolex green, so you’re assured a splash of quiety luxury every time you check the time—at home or wherever you may roam.

Case Size: 40 mm Movement: Calibre 3285 Power Reserve: 70 Hours Price: $10,900 on Jubilee, $10,700 on Oyster

Rolex Deepsea in Yellow Gold and Cerachrom Bezel

It’s the first ever Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea to be presented in 18-karat yellow gold. It’s also the first time the Deepsea has worn a Cerachrom bezel, and this is the first time that Rolex has separated the Deepsea from the Sea-Dweller lineup. That’s a lot of firsts.

That gold’s striking juxtaposition to the rich blue of the lacquer dial and ceramic bezel is not being lost on the crowds mingling in the Geneva Palexpo convention center at the time of writing. But serious dive watch geeks right now are busy marveling at a new technical masterstroke: the compression ring within the Ringlock system in this new piece—the part of the watch’s architecture that equips it to withstand depths of up to 3,900 meters—is now crafted from ceramic.

Technical diving innovation is an ongoing mission for Rolex, and the Deepsea has always been renown for its compression resistance. The Crown isn’t quoting any new depth figures, however—which is fine, because the 3,900 meters on offer since the Deepsea’s launch in 2008 imposes roughly 65 times the pressure the human body can endure. Ceramic also offers anti-deformation properties, though, and there’s no doubt that this piece’s waterproofness will be more robust than previous models, to be tested only should you drop it overboard in the middle of the ocean.

Tool watches being fit for purpose whatever they’ll end up (not) being used for is one of the industry’s core underlying tenets: and, as well as offering a strikingly aquatic vibe, the deep blue dial admirably complements legibility features such as the Chromalight display, the contrasting shapes of the hour markers, and differentiated hands which, like the triangular ‘zero’ marker on the bezel, are also filled with Chromalite, Rolex’s proprietary luminescent material.

Case Size: 44 mm Case Material: yellow gold Movement: Calibre 3235 Power Reserve: 70 Hours Movement: caliber 3235 auto-winding mechanical with date Price:  $52,100

Cosmograph Daytona With Diamond Bezel and Mother-of-Pearl Dials

Can a reinterpretation of a classic be simultaneously faithful and bold? Yes. Beyoncé’s take on The Beatles’ Blackbird proved it when new album Cowboy Carter hit streaming platforms two weeks ago, and Rolex are proving it today with these two new iterations of the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona.

Both are in 18-karat white gold; both have mother-of-pearl dials whose boundaries are graced with eight diamonds and three Chromalight hour markers; both are graced with a bezel set with 36 brilliant-cut diamonds. The differences? The one whose dial is white with dark chronograph counters comes with an Oysterflex bracelet; the inverted version of that color scheme comes with Oyster bracelet. Notably, this is the first time we’ve seen a mixing of mother-of-pearl colors from Rolex, and we’re already calling these the the “Pearl Pandas.”

This is not the first iteration of a piece originally created for hardcore racing drivers, back in 1963, to forego the useful tachymetric scale for jewels, but we’ve never heard anyone complain about that. It’s arguably the most eye-catching bejeweled Daytona to date, however.

Case Size: 40 mm  Movement: Calibre 4131 Power Reserve: 72 Hours Movement:  caliber 4131 auto-winding chronograph Price:  Oysterflex $61,400, Oyster bracelet $70,100

Day-Date 40 & 36 in Precious Metals

Nearly seven decades after the Day-Date became the first wristwatch to display the day of the week spelt out in full, Rolex has used new iterations of the model to demonstrate its dedication to incredmentally nudging small details toward perfection.

One new Day-Date 40 in 18-karat Everose gold introduces, for the first time, a slate ombré dial around whose deep black edge are found faceted, deconstructed Roman numerals and faceted index hour markers in 18-karat pink gold. (Some fans may remember this one from the ad during The Oscars.) Another, in 18-karat white gold, features a dial whose white mother-of-pearl surface calls to mind overlapping clouds: an effect which interacts seductively with the ten baguette-cut diamonds set onto the dial as hour markers.

In a new variant of the Day-Date 36, in 18-karat yellow gold, we see the deconstructed Roman numerals and faceted index hour markers previously reserved for the piece’s larger sibling set around a white lacquer dial; in another, in 18-karat Everose gold, the blue-green dial hue introduced on the Sky-Dweller last year has been adorned with ten baguette-cut diamonds as hour markers.

President bracelets—a moniker coined when Lyndon B Johnson wore a yellow-gold Day-Date in 1965—are a given for all of these sophisticated iterations.

Case Size: 40 mm/36 mm  Movement: Calibre 3225 Power Reserve: 70 Hours Price: Day-Date 40 Ombré dial $41,500, Mother of Pearl $47,050, Day-Date 36 White Roman dial $35,000, Blue with trapeze cut diamonds $80,000

Sky-Dweller in Rose and Yellow Gold

Arriving two whole decades after the last entirely new model Rolex added to its repertoire (the Yacht-Master), the Sky-Dweller, when it was unveiled to the world in 2012, was interpreted as being The Crown’s contribution to the gargantuan watch trend then riding the crest of the zeitgeist.

Subtle mutations since then have demonstrated far longer-term aims for the line: the latest example being these two new 18-karat gold versions—in 18-karat Everose gold with a slate dial, and 18 ct yellow gold with white dial—each, for the first time, sporting a Jubilee bracelet.

Displaying the time in two time zones simultaneously (local time with conventional center hands, reference time in 24-hour format on an off-center disc) as well as offering an annual calendar (‘Saros’) which automatically differentiates between 30- and 31-day months, Rolex’s most complicated wristwatch also features a Ring Command system using the bezel that allows the wearer to select functions with ease.

Case Size: 42 mm Movement: Calibre 9002 Power Reserve: 72 Hours Movement: caliber 9002 auto-winding annual calendar with second time zone Price: Everose $52,900, Yellowgold $49,000

1908 in Platinum with Ice Blue Dial

Rolex are calling this update on a piece launched only last year a “visual masterpiece”—and calling them out for hyperbole here would be churlish. Crafted in 950 platinum (which essentially refers to 95 percent purity), the new version’s ice blue dial, with its rice-grain guilloché texture, combines to stunning effect with the otherwise smooth minute track’s crimped pattern filet sauté—not to mention the piece’s brown alligator leather strap.

Named as a doff of the cap to the year Hans Wilsdorf registered what remains the only genuine household name in fine watchmaking, the piece packs other details that fall into the “ultra-subtle, but impossible to ignore once you know they’re there” category: not least the chamfering on the top edges of the middle case lugs and a bezel whose smooth, domed effect gives way to fluting lower down.

It’is great to see The Crown leaning into the 1908 series, as the previous Cellini models that this replaces somehow lacked that  je ne sais quoi that this watch appears to have heaps of. Also, this is Rolex’s slimmest watch, just as a dress watch should be.

Case Size: 39 mm Case material: Platinum Movement: Calibre 7140 Power Reserve: 66 Hours Price: $30,900

Allen Farmelo

Allen is Robb Report's digital watch editor. His writing and photography have appeared in Fortune, Hodinkee, WatchTime, International Watch and many others. When he's not obsessing over vintage…

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Editors' Picks Our Rolex Predictions For Watches & Wonders 2024

Last year we got one (nearly) right. Can we do it again?

As if we were on the same wavelength, Rolex teased its upcoming novelties in a short video on their various social media platforms. As always, it's nearly impossible to decipher much from it, but in that video we saw what looks to be changes to bracelets, perhaps a new Sky-Dweller or a solid gold Datejust. There appeared to be a GMT-Master II in there as well as some interesting dial work and a curious yellow gold sports model with a caseback that had us scratching our heads (is it an exhibition style or a different metal?). 

In any event, this just goes to show you what power Rolex wields when it comes to watch enthusiasts trying to figure out what they will and won't do year in and year out. We certainly fall into that bucket and make it a yearly tradition to get clairvoyant with the Crown's novelties. Last year we (okay, I) basically correctly foresaw the gold GMT and I'll never let anyone forget it. This year our choices run the gamut from "obvious" to full-on funky. We made our Tudor picks yesterday, and now without further ado, here are our predictions for Rolex mere days ahead of Watches & Wonders 2024. Like we said yesterday, let us know what predictions you have in the comments and tell which of ours you like best! 

Last year's emoji Day-Date and celebration dial OP mean we all have carte blanche for anything our hearts desire in this round-up. I got swept up in the try-and-be-as-weird-as-possible approach and dreamt up some goofy colorful enamel heart-shaped gem-set novelties. My colleague TanTan brought me back down to earth with a more reasonable (but still enough of a fantasy to appease me) idea. How about a new take on "beach" Daytona dials. Why not remake  pastel beachy colors and put them into OP cases? On bracelets. Obviously.

I say these 2024 beach dials should be close to the original concept and made of stone, TanTan wants pastel colored lacquer dials, but this is my "prediction" and so I am making executive decisions. We are going OG turquoise, yellow mother of pearl, pink mother of pearl, green chrysoprase/chalcedony. Okay, so the chances of this happening are slim but they are not impossible. And so if we are buying into this fantasy, let's just go all the way "beach," and make these in white gold.

This would be "new" for Rolex, no stone dial OP watches have been made. The modern OP is a relatively new Rolex model and was seemingly created to exist as a more moderately priced option, entry level we could say. But there is precedent to my prediction! Some of the rarest vintage stone dials are found in Datejusts, which was a similarly low-market model compared to the Day-Date at the time.

Since Rolex surprised us with the Le Mans Daytona, the iconic chronograph has been back on my mind. I've always sort of dismissed the modern Daytona as a watch for other people. I don't know who they are, but they weren't me. Then the Le Mans changed everything. I'll never forget that release and how it exceeded expectations in person in every way. So I started looking at Daytonas again. But there's a problem. The best Daytona possible doesn't exist. Yet.

After getting to compare the Le Mans to the white gold Daytona on Oysterflex, I realized that if you could only choose between strap and bracelet on a daily basis (without owning both) you really could have one of the most versatile watches on the market.  Make it in stainless steel and you've got a nearly perfect daily wear watch. But because of the design of the end links for the Oysterflex, you can't mix and match. While I'm not confident enough to predict this is what Rolex will do, it's what I'm crossing my fingers for.

Imagine a white-dialed Rolex Daytona with all the new bells and whistles, the metal rim on the ceramic bezel, and maybe a bonus display caseback. Now add an updated quick-release oyster bracelet and an option to buy a quick-release Oysterflex as well. I'm getting excited just thinking about it. Walking around town, the heft and visual appeal of the stainless steel Oyster bracelet would scratch the itch of wearing a Daytona the way it was born to be. But if I were heading to the country club (which I'd be a member of if I owned a Daytona) to hit some balls, I'd pop my new favorite watch on an Oysterflex so it's more comfortable on my sweaty wrist as I lounge in the clubhouse afterward. What a dream.

I am certainly not the first one to propose a watch like this. I have seen renders of it on the internet lately though I am a bit confused that a lot of folks I know are proposing a Red Submariner no-date. Historically, that wasn't a thing and so I don't think it will become a thing. But I digress – my prediction is far more specifically a Red Submariner Date which harkens back to the original Sub Date ref. 1680 from the late '60s which lasted only a handful of years.

My thought here is that the Red Sea-Dweller may be no more this year, and that watch always felt like a split the baby approach: give the people what they want by way of a "red" diver but give it to them in such a large package that most won't ever spring for it (or have the wrist to support it). I think that the "Starbucks" Submariner can exists on its own as the "white text" Submariner and we bring a some special energy back to the classic Submariner Date with the red text. Of course I am biased towards this watch given by well documented obsession with the OG Red Sub and its connection to Robert Redford. Let's just say if a watch like this were to come out this year, I may have no choice but to try to grab one... Of course, don't hold me to that. 

You already gave us two-tone , Rolex, so why not go all the way? To be clear, nothing in Rolex's past suggests it'd ever do this, which is exactly why I want it. At 36mm, the Explorer is my favorite modern sports watch in the Rolex catalog – I'm glad it's come back to the One True Size for the Explorer, as seen in the 1016 most other references, even as Rolex also added a 40mm Explorer back to the collection.

We've had gold Subs and GMTs for years, but never a full gold Explorer. It feels like it's about time. Danny begged for the same back in 2022, and now I'm adding my name to the chorus. There's just something so undeniably perfect – unnecessary, ridiculous, ostentatious, and perfect – about a gold sports watch with a black dial and no date at a size that pretty much anyone could wear.

The use of stone dials in the Rolex catalog has been largely relegated to the bygone era of the 70s (though many were still produced throughout the 80s and 90s), and even at that time, they were moreso available upon request than stocked with dealers. However, at last year's Watches & Wonder's lineup, Rolex did release a new Carnelian Dial Day-Date , among others, though this rendition might have played second fiddle to the much more talked about “Emoji” release.

Given the prevailing movement of green dial watch releases, I think it is much more fun and not-so-unreasonable to imagine that there could be a world in which Rolex could put its own signature on this trend by returning to the groovy malachite stone. Of course, the Day-Date would make the perfect canvas for this sort of thing, and, there's no other way to go than to pair that rich color with a funky yellow gold case and bracelet. I'm manifesting a disco-era Rolex revival ASAP. I don't think I'm alone in this either.

Okay, so while I don't actually believe that we will see Rolex release this watch any time soon, I do think that a titanium Milgauss makes a lot of sense.

First, the steel version has been discontinued. Second, titanium is having a moment – both broadly in the sports watch segment but also within the Rolex context (see: RLX Yacht-Master and the Deepsea Challenge). Third – and most specific to the Milgauss hypothesis – is that titanium is an excellent metal for use around magnetic fields as it is not magnetic. This is what makes it great for biomedical implants, as titanium has a crystalline structure without unpaired electrons.

Those of you who know your Rolex history will note that the Milgauss was created in the late '50s as a watch for scientists and others who work in environments with strong magnetic fields. Heck, the name "Milgauss" is a reference to 1000 gauss, which was the level of magnetism that the original model was designed to resist.

With this in mind, wouldn't an RLX Milgauss be both nicely aligned with the history and impetus of the entire Milgauss concept and incredibly cool? Yes. Fingers crossed, but don't get your hopes up.

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New Release: 2024 Rolex Deepsea Is A 322g Dive Watch In Yellow Gold

After exploring the sensible lightness of titanium in dive watches with the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX Titanium , Rolex does the unexpected and presents the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deepsea 136668LB in 18k yellow gold. It is unexpected for a number of reasons, so let’s dig right in.

First, Rolex watches, especially those from recent years, have positively drifted from the showy approach the brand, and the larger watch industry, presented in the ’90s and ’00s, and refocused on inherent functionality and conceptual integrity. Yes, all that happened well within the realms of poseur luxury products, so do take that statement with a pinch of salt — but it was a positive and tasteful development, nevertheless. We started seeing new watches in RLX Titanium, or when in gold, they were fitted with comfy and durable Oysterflex elastomer straps, and we discovered impressive advancements in movement technologies and durability, too. It felt like Rolex was on its track back to its roots, which would be beautifully made, functional, robust tool watches — albeit without removing the thick veneer of luxury it has put on over the last seven decades.

The new-for-2024 Rolex Deepsea in yellow is unexpected because it flies in the face of that approach by being a 3,900m (12,800ft), 44mm wide dive watch wrapped in 18k yellow gold, with an absolutely massive 18k yellow gold bracelet attached to it. For those who are yet to wear a solid gold watch on a gold bracelet: These things are shockingly heavy. Ridiculously so. Uselessly so  That’s a utilitarian approach, and there is a more subjective one: Taste. A simple description, I’m sure, would suffice, but looking at the new 136668LB will convince you that this well and truly is what Stallone would have worn in 2004 — but, thankfully, we are in 2024, not 2004, and watch collectors seem to have changed their reference point since then.

Meeting Rolex during our presence here at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024 we learned that the Yacht-Master II — the entire collection — has been discontinued from 2024. It goes without saying that there still is a strong market for large gold watches, and this highly unlikely configuration would be it for Rolex. Yes, the Submariner has been around for over 50 years in gold, but it has always been a lot narrower and thinner than the Deepsea, making it that much more wearable.

In other news, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deepsea is called just that, gone is the Sea-Dweller designation. The inner Ringlock high-performance compression ring system is now crafted from Cerachrom ceramic — it is basically that flange ring that frames the dial and lies under the crystal. As such, it perfectly matches the blue Cerachrom bezel, which is reserved exclusively for gold and two-tone Rolesor watches, it’s never on an Oystersteel piece.

The massive Oyster bracelet in 18k yellow gold also relies on ceramic, ceramic inserts to be specific, which isn’t new from Rolex — it debuted in 2015 on the Day-Date — and makes the bracelet that much more supple and yet resistant to stretching. The bracelet is equipped with the Oysterlock safety clasp which, in turn, features a Rolex Glidelock tool-free 20mm extension system crafted from solid 18k gold — probably the coolest, most covetable component of the new Rolex Deepsea in yellow gold.

The movement that enjoys the 3,900m (12,800ft) water resistance is The Rolex Caliber 3235 which will be familiar to those with a date-equipped, larger Rolex watch. It runs at 4Hz over the course of its 70-hour power reserve and is equipped with the highly efficient Chronergy escapement, Parachrom hairspring, and Paraflex shock absorbers. The caseback is in RLX Titanium, which is not something one would expect to see paired with 18k yellow gold from Rolex’s own gold foundry.

A bonkers watch front to back, the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deepsea 136668LB in 18k yellow gold is priced at CHF 49,900 Swiss francs . You can learn more at the brand’s website.

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OYSTER PERPETUAL DAY-DATE 36

TIME STAMPED WITH EMOTION

With these versions of the Day-Date 36, Rolex brings an unexpected creative twist to one of its iconic models. By displaying a new emotion each day, the watch brings an element of spontaneity into the wearers’ daily life and allows them to invest the reading of time with their changing mood.

Rolex unveils three new variants of its Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36, full of joy and energy. Crafted from 18 ct yellow, white or Everose gold, these watches have adopted an original face. Rather than showing the day of the week, the arc-shaped aperture at 12 o’clock displays an inspirational keyword in English – ‘Happy’, ‘Eternity’, ‘Gratitude’, ‘Peace’, ‘Faith’, ‘Love’ and ‘Hope’. The window at 3 o’clock reveals daily one of 31 exclusive emojis in place of the date. Entirely created using champlevé enamelling, the dial is striking for the depth and intensity of its gleaming colours and decoration. The motif is inspired by a jigsaw puzzle. Turquoise blue, red, fuchsia, orange, green and yellow pieces fit together on a single-colour background, each representing one of the key moments in life. The hours are marked by 10 baguette-cut sapphires in six different hues set according to the main colour of the dial, which is turquoise blue on the 18 ct yellow gold and 18 ct white gold versions, and orange on the watch in 18 ct Everose gold. The new versions of the Day-Date 36 are equipped with calibre 3255, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology, enabling them to display a special keyword each day of the week and an individual emoji each day of the month, as well as the hours, minutes and seconds. Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.

EXCLUSIVITY ACCORDING TO ROLEX   At its launch in 1956, the Day-Date was a major innovation: it was the first calendar wristwatch to indicate, in addition to the date, the day of the week spelt out in full in an arc-shaped window at 12 o’clock on the dial – a technical feat at the time. The day of the week is available in a choice of 26 languages. Watches in the Day-Date range are made only of precious metals – 18 ct yellow, white or Everose gold, or 950 platinum. Worn by many of the world’s political figures, directors and visionaries, the Day-Date is instantly recognizable, in particular thanks to its emblematic President bracelet, whose evocative name, together with the eminent figures who have worn it, ensured the Day-Date became known as the ‘presidents’ watch’.

THE OYSTER CASE, SYMBOL OF WATERPROOFNESS A paragon of robustness and elegance, the 36 mm Oyster case of the new versions of the Day-Date 36 is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). The middle case of these versions is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct yellow, white or Everose gold. Its case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. The Twinlock winding crown, fitted with a double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, which features a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock, is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and benefits from an anti-reflective coating. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimal protection for the movement it houses.

PERPETUAL CALIBRE 3255 The new versions of the Day-Date 36 are equipped with calibre 3255, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex that was released in 2015 and fitted on this model in 2019. A distillation of technology, this self-winding mechanical movement delivers outstanding performance in terms of precision, power reserve, convenience and reliability. Calibre 3255 incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorus, this escapement is resistant to strong magnetic fields. The movement is fitted with a blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy. The hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations as well as high resistance to shocks. It is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is mounted on the Rolex-designed, patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, increasing the movement’s shock resistance. The oscillating weight is now fitted with an optimized ball bearing. Calibre 3255 is equipped with a self-winding system via a Perpetual rotor. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of calibre 3255 extends to approximately 70 hours.

PRESIDENT BRACELET The new variants of the Day-Date 36 are fitted on a President bracelet in 18 ct yellow or white gold for those with a turquoise blue puzzle-motif dial, or in 18 ct Everose gold for the orange puzzle-motif dial. Created specially for the launch of the prestigious Oyster Perpetual Day-Date in 1956, this three-piece link bracelet, made only from 18 ct gold or 950 platinum, is still reserved exclusively for the Day-Date and precious metal versions of the Datejust. The President bracelet is equipped with an elegant concealed folding Crownclasp and includes patented ceramic inserts – designed by Rolex – inside the links to enhance its flexibility on the wrist and its longevity.

SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER CERTIFICATION Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories according to its own criteria, following the official certification of the movements by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The in-house certification tests apply to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding. The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is of the order of −2 /+2 seconds per day – the rate deviation tolerated by the brand for a finished watch is significantly smaller than that accepted by COSC for official certification of the movement alone. The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.

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OYSTER PERPETUAL GMT-MASTER II

The GMT-Master II is available this year in two new versions – yellow Rolesor and 18 ct yellow gold – with a Cerachrom bezel insert in grey and black ceramic, an entirely new colour combination.

OYSTER PERPETUAL EXPLORER 40

The Explorer range is expanded with the arrival of a new 40 mm model. Offering enhanced legibility, this timepiece carries all the qualities that have made the Explorer – one of the brand’s first Professional watches – a reference throughout the decades. Simple, robust and corrosion resistant, the new Explorer 40 is crafted from Oystersteel, a Rolex proprietary alloy.

OYSTER PERPETUAL

Alive with colour, vitality and positivity, the new dials of the Oyster Perpetual in 31 mm, 36 mm and 41 mm are dotted with many-coloured bubbles that joyfully reunite the five hues introduced to the range in 2020.

The new Day-Date 36 welcomes dials made of decorative stone in shimmering tones that evoke the atmosphere of the Mediterranean coast. 

GMT‑Master II

Echoing emotions.

For the first time, the GMT-Master II in Oystersteel is presented with the Cerachrom bezel insert in grey and black ceramic introduced to the range in 2023. Two new versions are offered: one with our Oyster bracelet, the other with our Jubilee bracelet. Their green 24-hour hand displays much more than just an alternative time zone; it points to another location that resonates with the wearer – a reminder of the emotions that accompany each traveller.

Grey and black Cerachrom bezel insert

Subtle harmony

The bidirectional rotatable bezel of the new GMT-Master II watches is equipped with a two-colour, 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert in grey and black ceramic. This muted colour contrast subtly evokes the alternation of day and night. The moulded, recessed graduations and numerals are coated with platinum via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition), making them clearly visible.

Oystersteel

A high-performance alloy

The new versions of the GMT-Master II are crafted in Oystersteel. Produced exclusively for Rolex, this alloy is highly resistant to corrosion and shocks. It offers outstanding sheen and retains its lustre even when the watch is exposed to the most extreme conditions. This metal celebrates the identity of the model, which at its launch, was only available in steel.

Green 24-hour hand

Highlighting our connection to the world

Oyster or Jubilee bracelet

Comfort, robustness and elegance

Calibre 3285

One movement, two time zones

Here and there at the same time

Six key dates for an icon.

Launch of the GMT-Master. This watch provided a tool for navigating between journey time points. With its dedicated 24‑hour hand and graduated, rotatable two-colour bezel, it enabled all those who constantly travelled in different time zones – airline pilots, ships’ captains, navigators, international businessmen and members of the Armed Forces – to know the time in two time zones at a glance.

The two-tone bezel insert is made in aluminum instead of Plexiglas for increased resistance to scratches and shocks. The alloy is anodized to create the different colours on the surface and make the insert harder.

New movement. Introduction of a new calibre that allowed the hour hand to be adjusted independently of the minute hand and 24-hour hand. The watch with the new movement was named the GMT-Master II. And the first version of the model bears a burgundy and black bezel insert to mark this change.

First ceramic bezel insert. The GMT-Master II welcomes a bezel insert made of ceramic, a first on a Rolex watch. This high-technology ceramic is extremely hard, virtually scratchproof, and its colour is unaffected by ultraviolet rays. In addition, thanks to its chemical composition, it is inert and cannot corrode.

Winding crown on the left. An unexpected reinterpretation of the GMT-Master II was revealed in 2022. The new version, with a green and black Cerachrom insert, stood apart from others in the range for having its winding crown on the left side of the case. The date window was also uniquely placed at 9 o’clock.

Grey and black insert and Oystersteel. Rolex unveils two new versions of the GMT-Master II, both equipped with a Cerachrom bezel insert in grey and black ceramic. Made of Oystersteel, they offer more discreet colour tones, subtly revealing their personality by way of a green 24‑hour hand.

GMT-Master II

Oyster, 40 mm, oystersteel.

With its latest creations, Rolex brings a fresh new look to some of its most iconic models.