bayfield sailboat review

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Bayfield 36 review: classic marathon runner.

Certain styles never go away. There is always the lure of the pirate ships of old with their trailboards, bowsprits, and clipper bows. And at every sailor’s essence are certain pirate ideas, the romance of adventures on the high seas. The look speaks of journeys to far off lands for exciting adventures. That is what the Bayfield and now Gozzard Yachts stand for. In 1970, Ted and Hayden Gozzard started Bayfield Yachts in a yard in Bayfield, Ontario, Canada. Their first offering was a Bayfield 25. The company became synonymous with the classic, clipper bow look in Canada. They followed the Canadian innovations of C&C using balsa cored fiberglass. In 1981, Ted left the company to found his own builder, Gozzard Yachts. Hayden stayed on and in 1985 designed his first and only Bayfield, the 36. Ted continues to run Gozzard Yachts with his sons while the Bayfield factory burned down in 1988 halting production. These 36-footers have an excellent reputation in Canada, more well known than here in the USA. Her interior is arguably the largest you will find on a 36-foot sailboat. The roomy accommodations combined with her offshore sailing pedigree make her one of the best choices around in this range for a serious offshore yacht.

First Impressions Hayden stayed with Ted’s principles and look. The 36 is a fulled keeled, clipper bowed, trailboarded cruiser. From the dock, it’s interesting to compare and contrast her to the more modern 36 Gozzard that Ted has gone on to design. We have had the luck of selling both a Gozzard 36 and representing a Bayfield 36 within the last year. They have similar lines. The 36 Bayfield is really 41 feet LOA with her 5′ bowsprit as they use LOD as the model number for modesty. She is the definition of a big 36-footer. The heart shaped stern is lovely and the low freeboard sheer just enough. I can always pick out Bayfields and Gozzards by the molded cove stripe and inset name. The aluminum toerail jars with the overall classic look and lowers the maintenance threshold. The cabin trunk has 5 portholes and is traditionally low and squarish. Underneath, she has a long keel with a bronze heal and attached rudder. This design is the source of her performance skills and drawbacks. Newer Gozzards moved on to a modern cutaway forefoot and even separate rudder arrangements. The Bayfields still chose to keep the traditional underbody with the classic style. But a stout cutter has its advantages, especially in the trades.

Construction Bayfield like Gozzard today had a good reputation for building quality yachts with attention to detail. They built the 36 with standard roving mat layup and a balsa cored deck from the influence of C&C. There are plywood inserts for strength where deck gear attaches. The chainplates attach to either to the main bulkhead or to special stubs tabbed to the hull. The bulkheads are tabbed in. The ballast is a keel shaped lead insert secured by resin inside the fiberglass keel cavity. They did use a fiberglass liners with balsa core to reinforce tread areas. The hull deck joint is bulwark style fastened with 5200 and 5/16″ bolts and aircraft locking nuts on six inch centers. Cleats and stanchions fasten into the inner face of the bulwark. Chocks and cleats along the aluminum toerail are excellent for running lines. The fuel tank is aluminum. The holding and water are plastic with two for water.

On Deck Forward the chainlocker is a watertight bulkhead only accessible from deck. Bayfield 36’s did not have a windlasses originally. Owners used the chainlocker to store an anchor and probably tied the anchor off to the chock in the toerail near the bow. Most will have been upgraded to an electric windlass by now which is a safe and very worthwhile installation. The shrouds tie inboard on the outer deck edge with skinny sidedecks. The deck has molded non-skid that may be wearing thin 20 years on now. The quarterdeck steps up as you walk aft to enter the cockpit.

These are true cutters (meaning the mast is further aft than you will find on a sloop) with single spreader Isomat spars. While not commissioned with a traveler, that is an easy upgrade along the trunk cabin. A single backstay attaches neatly aft of the cockpit. The cockpit is brightened by her teak railing, lockers, and trim. A propane locker is portside of the helm. The starboardside cockpit lazarette opens for storage and underneath access to the quadrant. The steering was the ubiquitous Edson pedestal system. The helm is comfortable with a raised seat. The companionway has two louvered swing doors with a screen and inserts behind. The sill is about a foot and not bad for underway. The doors snap open, and you can insert a bottom hatch so no water goes below. The doors also snap closed to prevent rattling or unexpected opening. A keyhole in the starboard door locks the boat up.

Down Below You will not find a more accommodating interior on any 36-foot sailboat. She has 6’3″ headroom throughout with a tub shower, a feature not always found on even on 45-foot cruisers. In the saloon, the 36 Bayfield and Gozzard are much different. The Bayfield has a traditional berth forward and aft while the Gozzard has the saloon forward. There is a nice aft stateroom portside and the master stateroom forward with an offset double. The navigation station is across from the head and has a seat that folds under the Formica table. The woodwork is a symphony of light teak. Framing the salon are two half bulkheads. Paired with each partial bulkhead is an interesting carved column which doubles as a clever handle offshore.

You will notice she has a unique butterfly hatch above the saloon. This sunroof has two doors that swing up and lay open. The hatch opens up the interior in calm water, but make sure she stays closed in a foul blow. There are two hatches in the galley and another over the aft stateroom. Two hatches are forward over the master stateroom. Combined with 10 portholes in the cabintrunk, the Bayfield 36 is well ventilated and naturally lite. While storage area is plentiful, Bayfield could have done a better job of providing access to the storage. To access the storage easier, you might see new doors, enlarged existing ones, or removed drawers. In the galley, an owner pointed out you have to reach way down into the storage holes. He added side doors and levels to ease this difficulty. Underneath the starboard settee. He noted how he had to enlarge the access door. The door was cut out too deep back making it uncomfortable to reach in. He cut away another 2 inches from the paneling.

Engine A Yanmar 4 JHE 44-hp four-cylinder diesel is standard with access behind the companionway ladder and also a removable plate in the aft stateroom. For a mid to late 1980’s yacht, this Yanmar was a wonderful choice and is probably still in most of the yachts. Access could be better. The engine room is underneath the cockpit and not too accessible from the back and sides. The starboardside combing folds up for access but mostly to the steering behind the engine. Re-powering one would not be too hard with the large companionway and easy front and top access.

Underway The Bayfield 36 and her cousins will not win you any races. The 36 is a heavy cruiser meant to go offshore. Owners readily admit she is not the best in light winds. But when it gets to 12 knots she really gets going. This is not a fault but simply what she was meant to do like a marathon runner versus a greyhound. Sven Donaldson’s excellent review says, “While by no means an ocean grey-hound, this boat will surprise a few sailors with its legs. The key, of course, is plenty of sail area (870 square feet in the three working sails), sail area that really comes into its own on reaching courses.” Her sailing ability really will shine in a tough blow offshore with her cutter rig and a reefed main. The main is handled by two sheets instead of a traveler. While some owners like this arrangement, you might want to think about a traveler as an upgrade if not already installed.

Conclusion What a shame! While the economy was poor, a 1988 fire destroyed Bayfield Yachts factory. According to the owner Ernie, a Bayfield dealer, Neptune Marine, and some partners bought the molds and tried to keep going. After a couple years, they went under. Ernie says,” I have the last Bayfield 36 to hit the water, Stonecutter II. I saved it from the crusher by being the last person to have his hand up at the auction of Neptune Marine’s assets.” With some consolation, Gozzard Yachts continues the design lineage and the boat building tradition in Ontario. These Bayfield 36’s are great cruisers for the Bahamas, Caribbean, and afar. They won’t get you anywhere fast, but they sail dry and steady and hold strong in heavy weather. Typically, you’ll see them for around $100,000 on the used market.

References http://www.wind-borne.com/Bayfield%20Review.htm http://cruisingandlivingaboard.net/wiki/index.php/Bayfield_36

8 Replies to “Bayfield 36 Review: Classic Marathon Runner”

Can anyone advise me where to locate the propane bottle on a 36ft Bayfield. At present I have still the alcohol stove and would like to move to propane. DuncanMcKeeve SV Elnamea

How about in a cockpit locker?

Duncan, I am able to place a regular size (20lb.) BBQ tank in the port cockpit locker. And I carry a smaller 13 lb. for the BBQ grill on the stern rail. If you like, I could send you pics.

Thank you, yes I would love to see the pictures so perhaps I could copy your ideas.

best regards Duncan

Did you make the change, and did you have any problems with fitting a replacement stove? We’re in the market for a 36 right now, but don’t like the alcohol stove.

We have a Bayfield 36 with a propane stove. Our propane tank is in a special locker on the port side in the cockpit, vented overboard. It’s located in the alcove between the port seat and the captain’s seat, recessed into the moulded cockpit. But we ordered it during construction. Valerie. (Hey, Paul, our Bayfield 36 is going on the market! “Waegbora” . . . )

Hi Valerie: Can you let me have some details direct to my e-mail?

Paul [email protected]

I want to install a windless on my 36 any suggestion

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Bayfield 25

When Madison, Wisconsin, resident Barb Constans and her partner Deb Rohde were preparing to downsize from their Southern Cross 31 Tao they had a few specific criteria: Their new boat needed to be trailerable, offer standing headroom, have a classic look and the versatility required for bluewater sailing (no small feat for a trailerable boat), and it had to have a decent trailer.

With those non-negotiable criteria in mind, they set their sights on just the right pocket cruiser: the Bayfield 25.

Designed by Ted Gozzard and built from 1975 to 1984 at Bayfield Boat Yard in Ontario, Canada, the Bayfield 25 is well known for its 1,500-pound full keel that draws less than 3 feet, shippy-looking miniature bowsprit and comfortable living spaces that provide 6 feet of standing headroom.

"We've been sailing together for 30 years, and we were very clear on what we were looking for," Constans said. "We also wanted a full keel, solid construction, deck-stepped mast and a nice, dependable, inboard diesel engine. The Bayfield 25 had it all."

Constans and Rohde paid $11,200 for the boat they found on Lake Winnebago, a 1982 Bayfield 25 they renamed Zephyr . The name honored their late pet, a cocker spaniel who joined them on a nine-month sabbatical cruise down the East Coast, through the Bahamas and into the Caribbean.

"It's a perfect name," Constans said simply. "It's a warm west wind and the name of a really great boat dog."

The price was midrange for a Bayfield 25 of this vintage: prices can range from $8,000 up to $15,000, depending on the boat's condition and how much work has been done.

Zephyr , the trailer, Yanmar 1GM single-cylinder diesel engine and sails-a main and a roller-furling genoa-were all in good condition, so Constans knew she wasn't facing a major reconstruction project. Yet there was going to be a substantial to-do list anyway.

"This is probably our last boat," she said. "We don't want her to be a project for the rest of our lives, but she needed updating to make her safer and more comfortable for liveaboard cruising."

That fall, the first task was to strip off the standing and running rigging and lifelines, which had never been replaced. Constans went to West Shore Marine in Racine, Wisconsin, for new stays, lifelines, turnbuckles and lifeline latches. She also bought new genoa sheets, and she replaced the mainsheets with line she had in stock at home. The halyards also needed replacing but she was able to use spares from their previous boat.

The 8-horsepower Yanmar didn't need refurbishing, but Constans decided that future maintenance and trouble-shooting would be made easier if they had service and parts manuals for it. So she approached Torresen Marine of Muskegon, Michigan, which provided the documentation.

"You can change the oil, filters and impellers yourself, and at the very least, you can figure out what the problem might be before you call a diesel mechanic," Constans advised. "It's good to have drawings that are specific to your engine, especially if the mechanic is used to working on cars."

Then, in spring 2012, Constans embarked on the bulk of the retrofit. She anticipated two to three weeks of work; it ended up taking six.

First, she replaced the winches, since self-tailing models would make it easier to sail shorthanded. She purchased two new Lewmar 16ST winches on sale from West Marine and installed them herself.

"I definitely learned a lot," she said with a chuckle. "The new winches didn't match our old winch holes, and it was an interesting and difficult process to set them properly and drill straight down. There was a lot of measuring and drilling, and it took much longer than I thought.

"It's worth it to look for expensive items on sale," she added. "I do a lot of shopping before we buy anything."

After that, Constans addressed the lighting belowdecks. She replaced all but one interior light, added two new halogen Aqua Signal reading lights in the V-berth and mounted a small kerosene swing lamp on the wall in the main cabin.

Constans soon found herself rewiring all of the boat's living spaces. Zephyr's wiring was old, and it wasn't tinned. So she replaced the wires with ABYC standard yacht wire.

"I was lucky, because I had a lot of electrical supplies from rewiring our previous boats, and I didn't have to replace the panel, which can be costly," she said. "Predicting what a rewiring job will cost is difficult, because it depends on the size of the boat and how many feet you need."

Next, Constans replaced the stationary, crazed portlights with two stainless steel opening models from Port Townsend, Washington-based Newfound Metals.

"Newfound Metals was so great," Constans said. "They have a YouTube how-to installation video, and they talked to me a bunch of times. Even so, it was significantly more work than I expected. Imagine trying to hold a sliding, heavy porthole in place on a thin sidewall and drilling! I had to buy clamps and screws to hold everything in place.

"I was dealing with templates, and it was tough to find the right lengths of metric screws because you've got to match stainless with stainless and not just buy any old screw from the hardware store," she continued. "This was one of the most complicated projects I've ever done. If you're going to do it, have a partner, and avoid 90-degree days! Butyl tape melts more than you'd think."

Because Constans and Rohde are frequently on the hook, Zephyr 's anchor was a critical feature. The boat came with a Bruce, but Constans opted for a 25-pound CQR with bow roller; she kept the Bruce as a backup.

"The CQR is a nice working anchor," she observed. "It's held everywhere. But I suppose sailors tend to stick with what makes them comfortable."

After cutting blocks of wood to serve as backing plates, Constans placed the anchor mount farther out on the bowsprit. That way, the CQR could sit on one side with the Bruce on the other.

Constans then turned her attention to Zephyr 's lead-acid batteries, replacing them with two AGM Group 27 batteries. She purchased battery boxes as well.

She also added a new LinkLITE battery monitor, similar to the one she and Rohde once had on Tao .

"It's disconcerting to not know the condition of the dedicated starting battery and house battery," Constans explained. "Being able to keep track of that was important. But space is at a premium, and it was challenging to decide where to mount the monitor and bus bar, and then figure out the wiring."

Next came the galley. Zephyr came with a two-burner, fixed-position stove, which Constans removed. Instead, she added a Coleman one-burner propane stove and a Forespar swing stove. And she purchased a Whale telescoping faucet, which has an on/off switch at the nozzle.

Then, Constans replaced the boat's bow and stern lights, as well as the mast light, with Aqua Signal Series 25 non-LEDs.

Finally, Constans addressed safety issues. The existing compass had a bubble in the oil, indicating a gasket failure, so she replaced it with a Plastimo Contest through-read model, which is viewable from the cockpit or down below.

"A friend helped me make the interior and exterior wood mounting rings, as the hole was a bit too big," she noted.

In addition, she bought a large radar reflector to help make Zephyr a bigger target on heavily trafficked waterways, added Tao's Apelco VHF radio with WAM unit, purchased a cockpit speaker so they would be able to hear the VHF and replaced the aging fire extinguisher with a larger, brand-new one.

The foredeck cleats were corroded, so she replaced those with new stainless steel cleats and wood backing plates. And, she added two stainless steel Johnson folding midship cleats along the boat's toerails so they could rig spring lines.

Constans also was determined to address the boat's anchor locker. There was no way to keep it shut.

"We're planning to take her on the Great Lakes, to the Intracoastal Waterway and even across the Gulf Stream to the Bahamas," she said. "In the event of a knockdown, I don't want that thing open."

She purchased a big, heavy, stainless steel barrel bolt from Jamestown Distributors. It was expensive, but it did the trick. Constans and Rohde also made several minor improvements including adding small amenities to the head, purchasing egg-crate foam for the V-berth, sewing a new head curtain, sewing winch and tiller covers, sewing sheet bags, using plastic snap-lid containers in the lockers to keep things dry, and adding a 12-volt outlet to the cockpit for the GPS and another down below. They also stripped some of the wood and replaced varnish with Sikkens. Constans estimates that about 90% of the refit was DIY.

There was one exception. Constans hired Select Plastics of Norwalk, Connecticut, to refurbish Zephyr's aging, crazed hatch. The company took the Lexan out, put acrylic in and added new gaskets and holes. And, at Constans's request, they incorporated her old solar vent.

"Over the years, I've learned when I can do something myself and when I need to find skilled labor," Constans said. "That being said, we had a problem with the trailer this fall, so in the spring I'm going to find someone to teach me to repack bearings. "

Constans has a few more things on her list. She'd like to add a mast floodlight for anchoring, a bimini top, a gin pole so she and Rohde can take the mast up and down themselves, a tiller pilot and a fuel pump to replace the existing manual one.

"I'm also thinking of sewing a gennaker," she mused. "I've never tried that."

To get a sense of what a new gennaker would cost, SAILING contacted UK Sailmakers in Annapolis, Maryland. Representative Dave Coughlin said the company would recommend a Matrix-cut Flasher; compared to Tri Radial, Matrix has more panels to allow better shape, performance and tear control. He also recommended Dimension Polyant's Dilon 100, a high-performance, 1.05-ounce-per-yard, ripstop spinnaker fabric that comes in a wide range of colors.

Sail area would come to 490 square feet, based on 165% Spinnaker Maximum Width (SMW). Coughlin said he estimates the price would come to roughly $1,617, which includes the sail and side-launch sail bag.

Opting to take sailmaking off their ambitious DIY list might be a good thing, because Constans and Rohde are looking forward to some serious sailing. Although the pair keep Zephyr at Mazanet Marine on Lake Mendota and enjoy lake sailing, they definitely are planning to cruise big water.

"We have a two-week cruise in the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore in our sights," Constans said. "Now we have a trailerable boat, so it's very doable."

When asked if she's happy with the Bayfield 25 so far, Constans is enthusiastic.

"She's a great boat," she said. "She's faster than our 31 was, and she can go out in 25 to 30 knots with two reefs in the main; she just jogs right along. She handles waves well. We're really pleased with her."

1982 Bayfield 25 (with trailer): $11,200

Retrofit Projects & Costs:

Replace rigging and lifelines $1,000

Genoa sheets $80

Yanmar 1GM service and parts manuals $165

Winches $1,100

New lighting and wiring $715

Two portlights $1,334

Anchor, anchor mount, bow roller $553

Batteries and battery monitor $760

Galley upgrades $237

Compass $153

Cleats $170

Fabric for curtain, sheet bags, winch covers $100

Misc. improvements $390

Refurbish hatch and add solar vent $371

Retrofit total $7,128

64% of Purchase Price

Grand total $18,328

Bayfield Yacht Owners Yahoo Group, http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/bayfieldyachts/info; Defender, 800-628-8225, www.defender.com; Jamestown Distributors, 800-497-0010, www.jamestowndistributors.com; Newfound Metals, 888-437-5512, www.newfoundmetals.com; Select Plastics, 877-874-3767, www.selectplastics.com; Torresen Marine, 231-759-8596, www.torresen.com; West Marine, 800-262-8464, www.westmarine.com; UK Sailmakers, 718-885-2028 , www.uksailmakers.com; West Shore Marine, 262-632-2724, www.westshoreinc.com

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Bow and Stern

Adventures in a bayfield 29.

Bayfield 29 — An early review

I’ve had a few weeks with the new boat (Bayfield 29, la Princesa …until I change the name in a few weeks), and I’m getting a good feel for her.

Firstly, I don’t have any buyers remorse. At least not yet. I’m rather pleased with the design in general.

Under sail:

She sails remarkably well in light air. Not race boat fast; but certainly a lot better than I expected from a full keel, rather full body cutter. Under the asymmetrical spinnaker she would do three knots in around six knots indicated wind (masthead anemometer), and if I was willing to settle for two knots of speed (and I often am), I could probably keep her moving at that pace on most points of sail under working canvas in any but the lightest wind (perhaps I’m overstating the case; but given my experience so far I don’t think by much).

She is perfectly happy in heavyish weather provided she gets a reef in the main by around 20 knots wind or so. I’ve had her in the high twenties pushing thirty (apparent, indicated) under one reef and both head-sails (I’m not sure if they are the original sizes or not) and there was a fair amount of weather helm; but it wasn’t unmanageable or uncomfortable, although a second reef probably wouldn’t have been a bad idea. I haven’t explored the full range of capability yet (I JUST bought the boat); but I’m willing to bet that with the second (fairly deep) reef, 40 knots of wind will be somewhat anti-climatic (although the wave action that goes along with 40 knots might not be pleasant…I’m not rushing to find out). I find her quite stiff (a benefit of that rotund body, I suspect), dry, and comfortable throughout the twenties with probably three to four foot Chesapeake waves.

Under Power:

No trouble handling under power in forward. She will turn within her own length to port (edit: I THINK to port…My recollection is suddenly challenging that direction). In reverse I now understand all the full keel complaints. I’m sure I’ll figure it out eventually; but I haven’t yet. I back into my slip; but I am using warping lines more than engine power at the moment. It’s a bit more work; but even single handed in a cross breeze I know I can get the boat in that way. I have watched some maestros under power, though, and I know it can be done with some more experience.

Cockpit and Deck:

The cockpit is deeper than I would like. It feels quite secure; but I need a huge cushion to sit high enough for good visibility (and I’m not a tiny man!). The seat coamings are practically vertical, the seat bottoms are too narrow, and the foot well area is so wide it is difficult to brace against the opposite seat. Happily, with the cushion I’m high enough I can see, and the boat is stiff enough that bracing isn’t as big a deal as it could be. But if each of the seats was a few inches wider, and the foot well was 6-8 inches narrower, and the back rest was angled a bit, the cockpit would be much more comfortable. Also I find it a little tricky to have one person at the tiller while another is tending the sheets as they both want to occupy the same space. This can be worked around, and with experimentation I am figuring it out; but some more thought here wouldn’t have been out of place. The cockpit also seems designed to hold a tremendous amount of water, with only two average size (1.5″ maybe? Less?) drains to let it all out. Hopefully if I’m ever out in conditions likely to flood the cockpit the cabin hatches are in, and the engine room hatch gasketing is more robust than it looks. Before serious contemplation of an offshore trip I’d have to think long and hard about putting in more cockpit drainage. As deep as the cockpit is, boat handling would be a challenge with more than a couple people in it.

While we are in the cockpit, I’d also like to say that I am not a big fan of having halyards run aft. Running the two head-sail halyards aft is pointless because I have roller furling (which is pretty nice, by the way). And the mains’l halyard is almost as pointless as the main seems to often get hung up on the lazyjacks going both up and down, which requires going to the mast to guide things along. While this is probably correctable either through a reconfiguration of the lazyjacks, or a change in technique on my part, what is not easily correctable is the reefing lines which are at the base of the boom. There is little point in trying to rig them to the cockpit as it is still necessary to be at the mast to get the reefing hook into the tack (although I suppose I could try and rig single line reefing…I’ll think about it). The outhaul and topping lift are also controlled at the mast. What the heck, they might as well have left the main halyard there too! I’ll think about it for the next year or so, I guess, and see if it bugs me enough to make changes. This is one of those things where the current setup appears ideal for the single hander, but I find it quite the opposite. It’s also a shame the boom wasn’t a few inches higher as this is a headache waiting to happen (a foot higher might permit standing headroom under the dodger and bimini)!

One other gripe, although this seems to also be common across most modern designs, is that one of the shroud chainplates on either side goes through the deck. The inner shrouds are attached to the house sides, and with that near vertical orientation they don’t seem to leak. The outer shrouds, though, poke a hole through the damn deck. Why? This is certainly NOT a racing boat, so a couple extra inches of sheeting angle won’t matter, especially since neither head sail extends aft of the mast. If Bayfield would have just moved the chainplates to the hull side I’m willing to bet that any water leakage, even with old caulking, would be minimal. As it is I’m going to need to caulk them up when I do my winter refit. The standing rigging will need to be replaced at some point, and I may consider moving those chain plates out at that time. I need to do research first, though, as there are likely to be unintended consequences.

The good news is the side decks are reasonably wide, the life lines are high enough to be safe, the foredeck feels secure, and the motion of the boat is quite comfortable.

Moving on to the interior we have what is, in many ways, a brilliant layout. By eliminating the v-berth (which typically in small boats becomes a catch all junk room) we not only get rid of the least comfortable berth aboard, we suddenly have room for a remarkably spacious head for a small boat. It is quite comfortable. Forward of the head is a hanging/storage locker, and further forward a huge anchor locker. There is even a funny little cushioned seat in the head, which I haven’t been able to find a point to; but it looks pretty cool even if I’m unlikely to ever sit on it. With the head further forward, we open up the main cabin. There is a centerline table with fold up leafs. On the starboard side is a berth that pulls out into a double, with a regular settee on the port side. Aft further is a half bulkhead that separates the galley (starboard) and chart table (decently sized to port). Partitions slide up from the half bulkhead to really separate the main cabin from what I’m calling the “working” (galley/navigation) cabin if the need for privacy and separation would arise (for instance, on a passage with sleeping crew). Aft of both the galley and chart table are a pair of quarter berths, port (a little too short) and starboard (plenty long). Four opening portlights plus the hatch in the head allow for decent ventilation. I’m 5’10” tall and I have standing headroom throughout, barely, although I have bumped my head a few times walking through the door to the head. Stowage is quite reasonable (I’m still experimenting on how best to utilize it). Water tankage is fine for a week or so (25 or 30 gallons I’m guessing); but could probably stand to be increased for any extended trips, especially considering the waste associated with a pressure water system (there is currently no system implemented for non-pressure water, although this is on my to-do list). The interior is teak, which some people like (me, for one), and others find gloomy. Build quality seems generally very decent.

Brilliant or not, I have a couple gripes about the interior as well. Well, I have one BIG gripe. Once again Ted Gozzard (or perhaps Bayfield yachts themselves) had an ergonomic brain fart. The settees, when in “couch” mode (that is, the seat backs are down), are too narrow, and it constantly feels like you are sitting on the edge of your seat. I guess this is OK for eating at the table; but not my cup of tea for just relaxing in the cabin. Raise the seat backs into bunk mode and they are as comfortable as any bunk I’ve personally been on. I have a few thoughts on how to make the settees more comfortable; but it will take a little experimentation. I’m going to try to avoid major surgery, or having to make new cushions ($$$); but I might not get away with that. Given that this boat will eventually be my home, though, the situation needs to be worked on a bit, and it deserves to have a few dollars thrown at it.

Ice melts fast in the ice-box. I think I’ll probably turn it into dry storage and pick up an Engle or something (I’ll snug it down into the starboard quarter berth or something, I guess).

Mechanicals:

The engine is a Yanmar 2GM, is about thirteen horsepower (although I can not get it up to max continuous RPM of 3400, meaning I’m not getting all the ponies), and seems to push the boat along just fine. When the wind and seas are calm I am just about getting to hull speed at maybe 2800 RPM (indicated). When the wind and waves are well up, I’ve been held back to as little as four knots over the ground (the knotmeter is not giving realistic numbers, so I’m defaulting to GPS…it should be correct within a quarter to maybe half knot or so, I think) at my max achievable RPM of three thousand. A few extra horsepower when the wind is blowing would not be unwelcome; but I think I’m getting an adequate amount. I think twenty horse power would have been a better choice; but not nearly better enough to consider spending the money to repower. I haven’t figured out fuel consumption, yet; but it is modest. The standard alternator is 35 amps. Given the horsepower, I’m not sure if it is reasonable to go much bigger which might put a practical limit on battery capacity.

Engine access is terrific, both through a hatch in the cockpit (although I wonder what would happen if the cockpit got flooded) and by removing the companionway steps, through the cabin. My only complaint is that the oil dipstick is in an awkward location which discourages checking it daily; but that is part of the discipline. I had a cooling problem a few days ago, so I pulled the water pump off to check the impeller and replace the belts. It was easy. I haven’t done any other maintenance on it yet; but outside of changing the oil (I think the old oil is sucked up through the dipstick port with a pump), most everything looks pretty easy to handle. Since there isn’t an hour meter on the motor and I don’t know when any scheduled preventative maintenance was last done, I’m planning on doing pretty much everything on the scheduled maintenance list to effectively reset the clock to zero before hauling in a few weeks for the winter. I may put in an hour meter at some point to help keep track, too.

I have a pair of Group 24 deep cycle batteries, in two banks. I’d like to at least double my amp capacity. It is not immediately obvious the best way to shoe-horn in more batteries, although I have a couple ideas. A tape measure will be my best friend for awhile. Given the smallish alternator, solar charging will be a good idea.

Boat options:

Air-conditioning! It is probably twenty years old and blows cool, but not cold air. I’m going to see if I can fix this up. As a soon to be live-aboard I believe I will replace this unit if I can’t get it working better (might just need a charge, or perhaps a good cleaning). It does get hot here in the Chesapeake!

Propane on demand hot water heater. It works, and generates scalding hot water. But it seems to take awhile to get going, and the water tanks are small enough that running the faucet while waiting for the hot water to show up seems like a terrible waste of fresh water. Taking a hot shower on a cool morning is pretty damn awesome, though! (Although there are pitfalls to showering aboard). I need to redo the propane lines (it’s a trust issue), so I may decide to get rid of the water heater. It will be kind of odd having a hot water faucet on each of the sinks without any hot water; but such is life. I can use my portable pump up sprayer for showers (it works well) by either solar heating the container or just boiling a pot of water.

Deck wash-down pump. The water around here is muddy. It’s very cool to be able to spray off the chain and deck after raising anchor. Very cool.

Propane stove. I guess the Bayfields came with Origo alcohol stoves; but my 29 has a Kenyon two burner propane job. I’m not a big foodie and I tend to cook simple meals, so this isn’t that big a deal to me. Gas is nice, though. Unfortunately, the stove is not gimballed (and it doesn’t have an oven, although that is of limited interest to me), and there is no easy way to install a permanent gimballed stove without doing major galley surgery and probably sacrificing the starboard quarter berth (which isn’t likely to get used much; but it might be important if it comes time to sell the boat down the road). I have a thought on how to inexpensively build a portable/removable gimballed stove sort of like the old Sea Cook stove, so when the time comes I’m sure I’ll be OK. There is currently a six pound propane tank hanging off the stern pulpit. Before doing any long distance cruising it might make sense to get another.

Conclusion:

While I have a few gripes, I find the boat meets my needs about as well, better really, as could be expected. There are always compromises; but in a sub-thirty foot live-aboard (take away the pulpit, it is probably closer to 27′) I don’t think I could ask for much more. I don’t know if many Bayfield 29s are out doing ocean crossings; but while the design might not be the best choice for a trip around the Horn, I don’t see any reason why she shouldn’t be perfectly capable and comfortable for seasonally appropriate passages providing some modest updating is done; although my experience in the matter is a bit limited.

She makes me smile when I look at her, and even though she looks a little tired at the moment, she gets a lot of compliments. She is thirty years old, and as is reasonably expected, her systems and cosmetics need some attention. Getting old sucks; but I don’t see any reason why “ la Princesa ” (I’m looking forward to the new name) can not be restored to full glory with a modest amount of elbow grease.

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4 thoughts on “ Bayfield 29 — An early review ”

I will add some photos to the review above in a day or two. They will help describe some of what I’m talking about.

Any futher comments on your Bayfield? I am considering it for single handing. 63 yo woman sailor here.

My review above pretty much stands, although I’m happy to answer any specific questions you have. I’m still early days in ownership, though.

Single handing, btw, is pretty easy. She’s a stable platform. Docking is a challenge, though. I’m hoping with practice it will get easier.

We have finished year 3 with our 1979 B-29. 6 opening ports, extended bowsprit, wheel steering, no cockpit engine hatch, etc. Docking does get easier- ours pulls hard starboard in reverse but we have a different model Yanmar.

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Bayfield 32 Reviews

Bayfield 32

By Jack Hornor

Revised by BoatUS editors in October 2012

The model was introduced in 1973 as the “Bayfield 30” but pressure from sales and marketing folks soon forced a name change to the Bayfield 32 which considers the vessel’s overall length, including the clipper bow and bow pulpit rather than her actual “on deck” length. In fact, the waterline length of 23′ 3″ is more typical of a 28-footer. The beam is quite wide at 10′ 6″ and draft is a minimal 3′ 9″

The Bayfield 32 has considerable freeboard and a high trunk cabin which have been cleverly disguised by her designer Ted Gozzard. Gozzard sold his interest in Bayfield in 1981 to start Gozzard Yachts. His distinctive clipper bow, wood trail boards and scroll work can still be seen on his current designs.

READ REVIEW :   http://www.boatus.com/boatreviews/sail/Bayfield32.asp

Believe it or not, there was a time when sailboat production flourished all across our wide continent. And when we think of geographic areas where sailboat builders congregated and even prospered, several locales spring to mind. New England was home to notable early fiberglass builders including Pearson, Hinckley, O’Day, Bristol and others. Southern California was a hotbed of building in the 1960s and 1970s with Columbia, Cal, Westsail, Ericson and of course Catalina, turning out record numbers of boats. The west coast of Florida emerged as a boatbuilding center in the 1970s and 1980s with companies like Morgan, Irwin, Gulfstar, Endeavour, Island Packet and others setting up shop. However, one area that is rarely mentioned may have been the most enduring of all: Ontario. From the 1960s through the 1980s, and in a few rare cases beyond, this boating-crazed Canadian province was home to many top builders. Along the southeast shore of Lake Huron, Ontario builder Bayfield Boat Yard Ltd. began producing a salty full-keeled 23-foot sloop in 1970.  Designed by Ted Gozzard, it evolved into the Bayfield 25 and became something of a cult boat.

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• Sailboat Guide

Bayfield 29

Bayfield 29 is a 29 ′ 0 ″ / 8.8 m monohull sailboat designed by Ted Gozzard and built by Bayfield Boat Yard Ltd. between 1980 and 1983.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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Review of Bayfield 29

Basic specs..

The Bayfield 29 is equipped with a long keel. A long keel provide a better directional stability than a similar boat with a fin keel; on the other hand, better directional stability means also that the boat is more difficult to handle in a harbour with less space.

The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 1.07 - 1.17 meter (3.51 - 3.81 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.

The boat is typically equipped with an inboard Yanmar 2GM diesel engine at 15.0 hp (11 kW), which gives a max speed about 5.0 knots.

The fuel tank has a capacity of 76 liters (20 US gallons, 16 imperial gallons).

Sailing characteristics

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Capsize Screening Formula (CSF)?

The capsize screening value for Bayfield 29 is 2.12, indicating that this boat would not be accepted to participate in ocean races.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 6.2 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Bayfield 29 is about 137 kg/cm, alternatively 771 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 137 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 771 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is Motion Comfort Ratio (MCR)?

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

What is a Ballast Ratio?

What is Displacement Length Ratio?

What is SA/D (Sail Area Displacement ratio)?

Maintenance

When buying anti-fouling bottom paint, it's nice to know how much to buy. The surface of the wet bottom is about 14m 2 (150 ft 2 ). Based on this, your favourite maritime shop can tell you the quantity you need.

Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

This section shown boat owner's changes, improvements, etc. Here you might find inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what to look for.

We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Bayfield 29 it would be a great help.

If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

BAYFIELD 25 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of BAYFIELD 25. Built by Bayfield Boat Yard Ltd. (CAN) and designed by Ted Gozzard, the boat was first built in 1975. It has a hull type of Long Keel and LOA is 7.62. Its sail area/displacement ratio 16.70. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by Petters, runs on Diesel.

BAYFIELD 25 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about BAYFIELD 25 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, auxillary power tank, accomodations, contributions, who designed the bayfield 25.

BAYFIELD 25 was designed by Ted Gozzard.

Who builds BAYFIELD 25?

BAYFIELD 25 is built by Bayfield Boat Yard Ltd. (CAN).

When was BAYFIELD 25 first built?

BAYFIELD 25 was first built in 1975.

How long is BAYFIELD 25?

BAYFIELD 25 is 6 m in length.

What is mast height on BAYFIELD 25?

BAYFIELD 25 has a mast height of 7.54 m.

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• Bayfield 40

The Bayfield 40 Sailboat

The Bayfield 40 is a classic Canadian sailboat that was designed by Ted Gozzard for cruising and first built in 1982.

It features a staysail ketch rig, a clipper bow with a bowsprit, a long keel, and a spacious interior. The boat is known for its traditional style, solid construction and comfortable sailing performance.

Published Specification for the Bayfield 40

Underwater Profile:  Long keel

Hull Material:  GRP (Fiberglass)

Length Overall:  45'6" (13.9m) including bowsprit

Waterline Length:  30'6" (9.3m)

Beam:  12'0" (3.7m)

Draft:  4'11" (1.5m)

Rig Type:  Staysail ketch

Displacement:  21,000lb (9,526kg)

Designer:  Hayden Gozzard

Builder:  Bayfield Boatyard (Canada)

Year First Built:  1982

Published Design Ratios for the Bayfield 40

1. Sail Area/Displacement Ratio:  16.9

2. Ballast/Displacement Ratio:  35.1

3. Displacement/Length Ratio:  291

4. Comfort Ratio:  30.7

5. Capsize Screening Formula:   1.8

read more about these all-revealing numbers...

Summary Analysis of the Design Ratios for the Bayfield 40

1. A Sail Area/Displacement Ratio of 16.9 suggests that the Bayfield 40 will need a stiff breeze to get her going. In light conditions, unless you've got plenty of time on your hands, motor-sailing may be the way to go.

2. A Ballast/Displacement Ratio of 35.1 means that the Bayfield 40 will have a tendency to heel excessively in a gust, and she'll need to be reefed early to keep her sailing upright in a moderate breeze. 

3. A Displacement/Length Ratio of 291, tells us the Bayfield 40 is clearly a heavy displacement cruising boat. You can load her down with all your cruising gear and equipment and it will hardly affect her waterline. Not an ideal choice for coastal sailing, but she'll come into her own on an offshore passage in testing conditions.

4. Ted Brewer's Comfort Ratio of 30.7 suggests that crew comfort of a Bayfield 40 in a seaway is similar to what you would associate with the motion of a moderate bluewater cruising boat - a predictable and acceptable motion for most seasoned sailors.

5. The Capsize Screening Formula (CSF) of 1.8 tells us that a Bayfield 40 would be a safer choice of sailboat for an ocean passage than one with a CSF of more than 2.0. 

Any Questions?

Is the Bayfield 40 still in production and, if not, when did production end and how many of these sailboats were built?

The Bayfield 40 is no longer in production. The design was built by Bayfield Boat Yard in Clinton, Ontario, Canada, starting in 1984, but the company went out of business in 1988 after a factory fire which ended production. It is estimated that about 50 Bayfield 40s were built.

What is the history of the builders of the Bayfield 40 and is the company still in business?

Bayfield Boat Yard was founded by Hayden Gozzard in 1970. He started by building small sailboats and gradually expanded to larger models. He hired his brother Ted Gozzard as the chief designer in 1973. The company produced several popular designs, such as the Bayfield 25, 29, 32, and 36, before launching the Bayfield 40 in 1984.

What sailplan and rig options are available for the Bayfield 40?

The Bayfield 40 has a staysail ketch rig, with aluminium spars, a clipper bow with a bowsprit and a raised counter transom. The sail area is 794ft 2 (74m 2 ), with a mainsail area of 280ft 2 (26 m 2 ) and a jib/genoa area of 514 ft 2 (48 m 2 ). The rig is designed to provide good balance and stability in various wind conditions.

What is the Bayfield 40 like to sail?

The Bayfield 40 is a comfortable and easy-to-sail boat that can handle various sea conditions. It has a moderate displacement of 21,000 lb (9,525 kg) and a high ballast ratio of 39%. It has a low sail area/displacement ratio of 16.9, which means it is not very fast or responsive, but it is stable and seaworthy. The boat has a long waterline of 30.50 ft (9.30 m) and a beam of 12.00 ft (3.66 m), which give it good hull speed and roominess. The boat is fitted with a Yanmar diesel engine of 44 hp (33 kW) or a Westerbeke diesel engine of 52 hp (39 kW) for docking and manoeuvring.

What is the average cost of a secondhand Bayfield 40?

The average cost of a secondhand Bayfield 40 depends on the condition, equipment, and location of the boat. According to some online listings, the price range for a used Bayfield 40 is between $60,000 and $100,000 USD.

What other sailboats have been created by the designer of the Bayfield 40?

Ted Gozzard, the designer of the Bayfield 40, has created several other sailboats, such as the Gozzard 31, Gozzard 36, Gozzard 37, Gozzard 41, Gozzard 44 and Gozzard 53. He also founded his own company, Gozzard Yachts, in 1984, which is still in operation today.

The above answers were drafted by sailboat-cruising.com using GPT-4 (OpenAI’s large-scale language-generation model) as a research assistant to develop source material; to the best of our knowledge,  we believe them to be accurate.

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40' Bayfield Ketch

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If you like to sail rather than motor, this would be about the last boat that you would want on the Chesapeake Bay. The Chesapeake is a great cruising and sailing ground, but it really rewards boats that offer better saing ability at either end of the wind range, but especially in the light to moderate end of things. I personally do not like Bayfields for short-handed sailing or for offshore work, since big displacements mean big sails to handle and poor sailing performance. In the case of the Bayfields, I personally do not like their rolly motion. Jeff  

Thanks Jeff for the helpful input. For most part, all blue water vessels are heavy. Is Bayfield worst than other well known boats like IP, Shannon, Caliber or Valiant? Aside from the big sails, will one be happy if he is going to sail coastal (from Maine to FL), to Caribbean and beyond for about 5 years or so?  

Hard to find a more beautiful boat. Perfect boat for the Caribbean and I doubt you'd be disapointed. Just don't expect to get anywhere quick..... full keel and heavy displacement. But you're sailing and don't need to get anywhere quick, that's the beauty!  

If you want to get somewhere quick you don't buy a sailboat, I enjoy the motion of my heavy displacement full keel Allied princess ketch, nice lines too, this is an old thread but still, heavy full keel boats in seaway are the way to comfortably my draft is only 4'6" also, just my opinion and have sailed bay fields in heavy weather, they handle it fine.  

I don't know the Bayfield. I sail a 39' 16 ton ketch alone. Sometimes it feels like work, but she holds her course and cruises right along. Singlehanding requires forethought, moreso with a bigger boat.  

First of all, I would disagree with your statement that "For most part, all blue water vessels are heavy." From my perspective, I suggest that statement reflects something of an anachronistic point of view. Many, if not most, of the respected blue water boat builder of yore who are still in business have shifted their newer designs to more moderate L/D's as the current science based understanding of offshore safety, and the evolution of the technology of boat building has moved towards lighter yet more seaworthy, seakindly, easier to handle, better performing, and ultimately safer designs to take offshore. Perhaps I come at this differently then most folks but in a general sense, I believe that a long distance cruising boat needs somewhere between 5,500 and 11,000 lbs of displacement per person, and that the number of people who you anticipate distance cruising aboard will dictate your ideal overall displacement. (Some people prefer as much as 15,000 lbs/person, but personally I do not subscribe to that heavier number for a wide range of reasons that can be found in many of my other posts around this forum.) From there I suggest that ideally a boat that will be used in a wide range of applications, including both coastal and long distance cruising, (such as you are planning) should ideally have an L/D less than 200, and for ease of handling an SA/D over 20. To a great extent the kinds of boats that you are describing are very poorly suited for coastal cruising, especially in a venue like the Chesapeake Bay, essentially spending most of their time underway as a slow powerboat with masts, will therefore be very disappointing to own for coastal cruising, and will be next-to-useless as a platform to learn to sail well. To answer your other question: In my opinion Bayfield's are no worse than an I.P. (which I do not consider particularly ideal as either offshore or coastal cruisers), a little worse than a Shannon, and a lot worse than a Caliber or Valiant. Respectfully, Jeff  

Jeff_H said: (which I do not consider particularly ideal as either offshore or coastal cruisers), a little worse than a Shannon , .... Click to expand...

My basis is that for the most part, (especially the newer) Shannons (as compared to Bayfields) tend to have a little more modern, lower drag underbodies, nicer modeled hull forms, noticably better build quality, and interior layouts better suited for both offshore work and coastal cruising (for example, on the Shannon, galleys are located nearer the point of least motion and where they can vent out the companionway and handholds and footholds are more usefully located.) Jeff  

Rockdawg, don't get caught up in the "newer is better" perception. Old boats are old boats and have proven themselves as compared to new boats. Time will only tell with them, but I'm not a believer in the new thin hulls and lighter displacements. You say you have $150-300k to spend. That is more than plenty. Many bargains available in the USA right now. Like those Bayfields, I would offer them 1/2 of what they want. You may be suprised. Good luck!  

Like those Bayfields, I would offer them 1/2 of what they want. You may be surprised. Good luck! Click to expand...

The broker will probably tell you that you are insulting the seller, but screw him. It's your money and the seller will counter-offer if he wants to sell it. In this economy, low balling will get you everywhere. Only suckers pay full price. You da man!!!  

I single hand a Bayfield 29', and most of what everyone is saying rings pretty true. Pretty slow, traditional and beautiful lines (imo), pretty rock solid in heavy weather, and nice and comfortable inside. The lack of a v-berth on my 29' allows for a very roomy head. The other point that rings very true is the ability to hold a course. I do not own an autopilot, but when the boat is balanced she holds course remarkably well. Many a day I have trimmed the sails, laid back and relaxed. Not very fast, but built solid, and I don't mind all the beautiful teak I have to take care of. I've been aboard a 36' and they are also very nice, haven't seen the 40' but I can imagine it is similar... except for the whole two masts thing.  

Here's a couple of sites I used to research and compare sailboats: Sail Calculator Pro v3.53 - 2500+ boats - great to compare two boats. Sailboat Links, Sailing sites, Sailboat Class Association List - Had pictures/diagrams and specifications of lots of sailboats. I found I had to use the "New Search" function when searching by partial names.  

Here's a few other sites I use to research sailboats Sail Calculator Pro v3.53 - 2500+ boats Sailboat Links, Sailing sites, Sailboat Class Association List - use the "New Search" Niagara 35 - Used Sailboat Market in Canada - brocheure style profiles and layouts and specifications of some sailboats Atom Voyages - Good Old Boats List - brouchure style profiles and layouts, specificationa and comments on 20 to 32 foot blue water cruisers. Sailboat Reviews of Offshore Cruising Yachts : Bluewaterboats.org - a good write-up, brouchure style profiles and layouts, specificationa and commenton blue water cruisers. Practical Sailor - Sailboat Reviews - M - Practical sailor's review of many sailboats. A short blurb is free, but you have to purchase the full review.  

I am an owner of Bayfield 36' on the Chesapeake. I sailed her in light winds and the performance is not too bad considering full keel and 18,500 lb displacement. In moderate winds her performance is good with nice tracking and very comfortable ride.  

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1977 Bayfield 32 Offshore Sailboat

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1977 Bayfield 32 Offshore Sailboat boat for sale

Lady margaret iii.

“Lady Margaret III” is a sturdy blue-water offshore sailboat that has been extensively upgraded for West Coast cruising. She has been extremely well maintained and has been recently outfitted with lots of brand-new equipment. She can be sailed sloop-rigged or cutter-rigged, and is a dream to sail single handed.

Many thousands of dollars have been invested into equipping her with brand new equipment and furnishings. The interior is wide open, spacious, and simple. This boat has a brand new Rocna anchor with lots of chain rode and a new windlass, a custom-built sturdy dodger, 2018 sails and covers, recently redone heavy-duty rigging, new bottom paint and zincs, and much more. Lady Margaret III  is turn-key and ready for adventure.

Don’t miss your opportunity to purchase this boat as she is one of the most rugged and sturdy sailing vessels available on the Pacific Northwest! Great value… dollar-for-dollar Lady Margaret III is the best boat on the market for an individual or couple wanting a sturdy and capable turn-key offshore sailboat loaded with tons of brand-new gear.

Looking for something a little different? Check out our other sailboat listings

Specifications

• Builder: Bayfield Boat Yard Ltd.
• Designer: Ted Gozzard
• Flag of Registry: Canada
• Hull Shape: Displacement
• LOA: 32 ft 0 in
• Beam: 10 ft 6 in
• LWL: 23 ft 3 in
• Maximum Draft: 3 ft 9 in
• Displacement: 9600 lbs Dry Load
• Ballast: 4000 lbs
• Headroom: 6 ft exactly
• Engine Brand: Yanmar
• Engine Model: 3GMD (See public reviews of engine)
• Engine Type: Inboard
• Engine/Fuel Type: Diesel
• Location: Center
• Engine Hours: 700
• Propeller: 3 blade propeller
• Drive Type: Stern drive
• Engine Power: 20 HP
• Fresh Water Tanks: 1 Plastic (40 Gallons)
• Fuel Tanks: 1 Aluminum (16 Gallons)
• Holding Tanks: 1 Plastic (15 Gallons)

Accommodations

• Number of single berths: 1
• Number of double berths: 2
• Number of heads: 1
• Seating Capacity: 6

Electronics

• Navigation center
• Depthsounder
• Cockpit speakers
• Furling genoa & spare
• Battened mainsail
• Furling Staysail and rigging included
• Steering wheel
• Electric winch

Inside Equipment

• Electric bilge pump
• Marine head
• Battery charger
• Manual bilge pump
• Refrigerator

Electrical Equipment

• Shore power inlet

Outside Equipment/Extras

• Cockpit table
• Swimming ladder
• Electric windlass
• Mainsail cover
• Genoa cover

Vessel Details

Equipment:  Includes high-end sound system, EVO 100 Raymarine autopilot with self-calibrating rate compass, brand new Hawkeye depth sounder, VHF Radio, CP175c Standard Horizon plotter almost unused (with C chips for entire Pacific Coast, Mexico and Caribbean

Hull & Deck: Hull in excellent condition, no stress cracks, recently polished, bottom-painted, prop antifoulant, and re-zinc’d April 2021 . Solid decks. 3/4 keel prop in aperture minimizes fouling from crab pots and discarded lines. Encapsulated 4000lb ballast. No keel bolts or loose fins. New Rocna anchor , brand new Lewmar Pro 1000 anchor windlass (with cockpit and deck switches), high test rode 100 feet of extra strong chain 200 feet of 5/8 nylon, bow roller, spare new Danforth 25 lb and nylon rode.

Interior: No leaks at all, teak interior, new upholstery and cushions, ESPAR forced air heater, bug screens for all openings. Brand new Caribbean Dickinson 2-burner propane stove with oven (installed for use with 1-pound propane bottles), stainless Steel sink, pressurized fresh water with 40 gallon tank. Enclosed head with toilet (15-gallon holding tank), pressure sink & shower. Please note that this vessel has a spacious design, thus has no salon table inside the cabin; if a interior table is desired one will need to be fabricated by the new owner.

Cockpit:  Wheel steering with Edson pedestal, Ritchie compass on pedestal, engine controls on column, beautiful removable teak folding cockpit table, New Bimini from Harbour City Canvas , sturdy custom aluminum track bridge and aluminum dodger with poly carbon. BBQ on rails. New radar arch.

Engine:  20 hp Yanmar 3GMD, 644 hours. 20-gallon fuel tank .

Electrical:  Solar system with 100 watt panel and 10 amp charge controller. All wiring is recent, no corrosion…circuit breakers not tedious and time-consuming fuses, tined marine wire, newer battery charging system, LED lighting, 1500 watt inverter

Rigging & Sails:  Stepped mast, heavy rigging upgrade done in 2015. New sail pack from Leach McBride (sail condition excellent), full battened main, can be run as cutter or sloop with roller furling on both, up to the moment sheet tackle blocks and cams, new sheet traveler arch. Lines in good condition, easy to handle single-handed with all functions close to helm. Radar reflector, masthead wind vane. Spare rigging included.

Other:   Manual pump and automatic electric bilge pumps,  stainless folding safety ladder, nav lights LED, anchor light, new LED spreader/deck light, spare rigging

Dinghy:  Dingy is professional made hard fibreglass 8-foot oar-powered made in Victoria BC, and is light, tows well and fits on foredeck most handily