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Westerly Konsort review: a re-purchase 40 years on
- Rachael Sprot
- June 9, 2023
As families grow up they inevitably grow out of their boats. Rachael Sprot joins one family who’ve re-purchased the Westerly Konsort they commissioned more than 40 years ago. Has the Westerly Konsort had its day, or is it a boat for all seasons?
Product Overview
When fellow sailing instructor Liz Le Mare invited me aboard her recently acquired boat, I didn’t need much persuading. She’d recently married a fiercely competitive dinghy sailor, Richard, and their wedding had included a mini-regatta in Portland harbour. So I was a little surprised to learn that the boat in question was a Westerly Konsort. It didn’t seem like the natural choice for a couple who’d crossed the start line of their marriage in a Kestrel racing dinghy.
Having never sailed a Westerly Konsort before though, my curiosity was piqued. The British boat builder left an indelible mark on the cruising sailor’s psyche and my lack of experience was an omission I was particularly keen to remedy.
The name Westerly evokes a strong reaction from some. The Marmite of the boat world, their distinctive lines are unapologetically practical and uniquely British. For many, the name is synonymous with some of the most successful yacht designs of the 20th century. To others, they’re an acquired taste and, like the flared jeans or cheese and pineapple sticks of the same decade, very much of their time.
The Westerly Konsort was the last of the Laurent Giles designs before the switch to Ed Dubois. With their trademark knuckle bows and bulky coachroofs, the earlier Laurent Giles models now look very dated. With the Westerly Konsort, though, these features are softened. In boat design evolutionary terms, she represents the missing link between the two subspecies.
At first glance the Westerly Konsort is a fairly conventional design, but in one dimension she was unusual: her beam. At 3.3m, it’s equal to that of a Sadler 34 and considerably out-girths her peers. Not only this, but she also carries it well aft and well forward. It was a bold move that paid off: the voluminous interior was a hit and over 700 Konsorts were made between 1979 and 1991.
All lines are led aft. Genoa car tracks have a good range. Photo: Richard Langdon / Ocean Images
A family affair
The day before the test sail Liz announced that her mother, Juliet, would be coming along, and that Bifrost was actually Juliet’s boat. It turned out that Liz’s parents, Juliet and Anthony Austin, had commissioned her at the 1979 Earls Court Boatshow.
After several years cruising the English Channel during school holidays, life became busier. By 1984 they’d relocated to Kent and reluctantly, Bifrost was sold. The boat had been a wonderful part of their lives, but everything has its season.
Thirty-eight years later, Anthony had just walked Liz up the aisle before his health dramatically deteriorated. He was ill in hospital and Juliet and Liz were on their way to visit him when they received a phone call out of the blue. It was Juliet’s cousin. ‘I’ve got this boat called Bifrost and your name’s on the papers,’ she said. ‘We can’t cope with her any more, I don’t suppose you want her back?’ They agreed immediately.
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That was June 2022. Liz collected the boat which had been lying in Chichester Marina partially abandoned and started restoring her. By now Juliet was caring for Anthony full time and hadn’t managed to visit the boat. Almost a year later, with her 79th birthday approaching, Liz asked Juliet what she’d like. ‘I just want to sail Bifrost again,’ she replied. The photoshoot for this article coincided perfectly, and almost 40 years since the boat was sold, they were reunited.
There’s a generous cockpit. The mainsheet traveller was on the transom as standard. Photo: Richard Langdon / Ocean Images
Built to last
It was an emotional moment as Juliet walked down the pontoon towards her new old boat. ‘Well darling,’ she remarked to Liz, ‘I know you said she was a bit battered, but she’s considerably less battered than me.’ The hulls were built to Lloyd’s approval and they’re generally acknowledged to have very substantial layups.
The decks are balsa-cored, although plywood pads beneath deck fittings and a hardwood kingplank on the centreline should give some protection against water ingress and flexing. We put the foredeck to the test by hoisting and gybing spinnaker that afternoon, and there didn’t appear to be any areas of softness. It helps that they’re unlikely to have been stressed by racing or major offshore passages.
The hull-to-deck join is disguised under the teak rubbing streak which gives the hull extra protection and Bifrost ’s topsides were in good condition for a 43-year-old boat.
There are plenty of clutches for lines to the coachroof winches. Photo: Richard Langdon / Ocean Images
The mast is deck-stepped with cap shrouds and lowers terminating on separate chain plates with chunky tie rods in the saloon. On an old boat it’s reassuring that things weren’t whittled down in pursuit of pace or profit.
The Konsort came with a choice of keel configurations: bilge keel being the most popular, some fin keels and a handful of lifting keels. Bifrost has a fin keel with a 1.6m draught. The early boats had a plywood stiffening matrix around the keel, but this proved to be inadequate and Westerly soon swapped to a top-hat style foam-cored matrix, which was much more substantial. Bifrost , like many of the boats with the original design, has been upgraded.
A transom hung rudder feels well balanced. The rig is a typical masthead and overlapping genoa configuration. Photo: Richard Langdon / Ocean Images
Broad shoulders
Stepping on board there’s an immediate sense of security. Her beam provides plenty of form stability, the stanchions are a decent height and the side decks are wide enough to move along with ease. The shrouds are set in board allowing safe passage along the side decks. The high coachroof means that the teak grab rail on top is within easy reach.
You might not buy a Westerly Konsort with spinnaker work in mind, but the foredeck is an excellent platform for sail handling if you feel the urge. Not only is it wide, but the volume copes well with the weight forwards. Two of us set up the pole without worrying about trim. A lesser boat would have protested at such flagrant disregard for gravity.
Side decks are wide and clear and there’s space to work on deck. Photo: Richard Langdon / Ocean Images
The cockpit is one of my favourite features. The coamings are deep and it feels safe and enclosed with the forward end protected by the high coachroof. ‘Once the sprayhood’s up,’ remarked Richard, ‘you can hunker down behind it and stay totally dry.’
There’s plenty of room for four when sailing. In harbour, lift the tiller to the transom hung rudder and you’ll accommodate eight for sundowners (don’t forget the cheese and pineapple). Originally mounted on a moulding across the transom the previous owners had moved the traveller to the middle of the cockpit. ‘I think it’s a mistake,’ Juliet rued, ‘it was so nice to have it out of the way.’ A deep cockpit locker on the starboard side swallows up liferaft, dinghy and fenders, as well as giving access to the engine and stern gear.
There was a light south-easterly breeze as we motored out of Portsmouth Harbour. Juliet took the helm looking as though she and Bifrost had never been apart. Liz hoisted the main from the cockpit: almost all the lines run aft making her easy to sail short-handed.
With more than 700 built, the Konsort makes a good family cruising boat on a budget. Photo: Richard Langdon / Ocean Images
Easy sailing
We unfurled an enormous genoa and set off upwind, making 3-4 knots in 6-9 knots true wind. She wasn’t particularly close winded but we made 50° apparent despite the old sails. ‘ Bifrost has always been a quick boat,’ remarked Liz. She won her class in the Round The Island race in the 1980s, surfing at 12.5kn round the back of the island.
She also took first place in the Westerly Konsort regatta last year, despite the handicap she gave to the bilge keelers.
She coped better with the light airs than I’d imagined, aided by the generous genoa which, though awkward to tack, it would be a shame to cut down. In Bifrost ’s case the lack of self-tailing winches could make long beats hard work but the rest of the time you need the sail area.
Cruising with the kite up was plenty easy. Photo: Richard Langdon / Ocean Images
Smooth kitework
‘You know,’ said Juliet wistfully, ‘I’ve never helmed this boat under spinnaker.’ Whisper the word to a dinghy sailor like Richard and consider it already flying.
We set up for a broad reach and in the light airs Bifrost ambled downwind sedately. Easing the pole forwards we came up to about 110° apparent before the guy needed re-rigging around a stanchion. With the pole aft she ran down wind comfortably. Unlike the fine-ended designs of the same era, which have a tendency to roll, she felt stable on the deeper angles.
We made a couple of end-for-end gybes and I was impressed that we could rig all the right lines to all the right places – it would have been harder on many modern boats with their minimalist cockpit layouts. With the spinnaker apprenticeship complete, and the Westerly Konsort’s docile temperament confirmed, we returned to Portsmouth Harbour.
The galley is small but functional, with extra work surface on the engine box. Photo: Richard Langdon / Ocean Images
Originally fitted with Volvo 25 or Bukh 20 engines, many have been upgraded, often with the Bukh 24, like Bifrost . Bukh engines have a reputation for being reliable and easy to maintain. We made 4.4 knots at 2200rpm with a dirty bottom and fixed, 3-bladed prop. ‘She’s a 5-knot passage boat under sail or power’, said Juliet.
It’s the interior that’s the major selling point though. You feel as though you’re in a boat which is 3-4ft longer. The layout is typical of its era with a large quarter berth on the port side and forward facing nav station. The quarter berth is enormous, almost a true double, or useful stowage.
The L-shaped galley to starboard is small but snug. It accommodates a proper cooker, cool box in the work surface and single sink. There’s stowage in the lockers behind the stove and cubby holes for crockery built into the aft bulkhead, with additional lockers in the saloon and behind the seats.
Admirals and admirals
Some people find the size of the engine box an encumbrance, but it does give good access for major repairs. It also creates an excellent platform to transition between above and below decks.
With room for two in the generous companionway, there’d be no fighting over who’s the admiral. The saloon feels light and spacious. Head room of around 6ft is impressive on a boat under 30ft. The table was originally bulkhead-mounted, though Bifrost had been upgraded with a fixed one mounted on the centreline.
Forwards of the saloon bulkhead there’s a heads compartment with sliding sink on rails and large wet locker opposite. The huge vee berth beyond is another major selling point and makes living aboard a realistic prospect.
Built to be rebuilt
Saggy headlining haunts boats of this era. Bifrost ’s wasn’t in bad condition but it’s a job that will certainly need doing every so often.
The joinery has withstood the test of time. There’s lots of solid teak which would respond to a rub back and varnish, and teak-faced plywood bulkheads were unblemished by blooms of damp. In places where the veneer had broken down, such as the galley, it would be easy enough to replace a panel. Liz commented that she hasn’t had to pump the bilges in almost a year of ownership.
Straight settee berths line the saloon, and the table has been upgraded to a fixed centreline unit. Photo: Richard Langdon / Ocean Images
The Westerly Owners’ Association is a treasure trove of information. Forum topics include 3D printing obsolete hatch hinges. It tells you a lot about the people who buy these boats and also that these vessels will reward you if they are looked after properly. Because the underlying build quality is good, they can be given a new lease of life.
Back to the future
Coming back into Port Solent I noticed the full length chine of Sunsail’s modern Jeanneaus. Did that bulky bow have its genesis in the Westerly knuckle, I wondered? Perhaps Laurent Giles was more visionary than we give them credit for – flares are back in fashion after all. For everything there is a season, and the thing about seasons is that they come round again.
The Westerly Konsort will please all kinds of sailors. She’s forgiving on novice crew yet she’s also set up to be sailed properly. ‘She’s our Round Britain boat,’ Liz explained, though I couldn’t help thinking she might be Richard’s ‘Round the Cans’ boat too.
There’s a proper chart table ahead of a large quarter berth that often gets used for stowing bulky kit. Photo: Richard Langdon / Ocean Images
At under £20,000, the Westerly Konsort makes cruising an achievable reality for many. Juliet, once a scholar of Norse mythology, chose the name Bifrost because it’s the bridge between the realm of humans and the realm of the gods. ‘In other words,’ she explained, ‘it’s the bridge to your dreams.’
Expert opinion
Ben Sutcliffe-Davies, Marine Surveyor and full member of the Yacht Brokers Designers & Surveyors Association (YDSA) www.bensutcliffemarine.co.uk
From a surveyor’s point of view, the Westerly Konsort 29 is a well put together yacht, with good quality plywood bulkheads that were properly bonded in. Early versions featured a fold-down saloon table and a Volvo Penta engine, with later versions being fitted with a Bukh engine.
Making good progress upwind. Photo: Richard Langdon / Ocean Images
Look out for deck movement. All Konsort 29s have a balsa core, and I’ve witnessed problems when owners have fitted extra deck fittings for boathooks and cleats, and haven’t thought to remove the core and fit a proper backing pad. When it comes to mast steps, look closely for any potential slumping of the deck moulding. It’s a common issue on many yachts when the builder uses a section of plywood and it gets wet over a long period of time. Rudders are transom hung, so look out for wear and movement of the gudgeon and pintles and tea-staining of both rudder and transom fastenings from hidden corrosion.
The craft came with three versions of keel – lift, fin and the popular twin keel arrangement. Inspection of the fastenings and the condition of the reinforcement around them is important. If you have any concerns, then the keel/s should come off. When doing a survey I like to do a tip test on the keels and see if the laminate around the keel root has any movement. While keel root failures are rare, I’ve had a few in recent years where they have taken the ground with every tide over many years. Many of the craft do suffer from damp hull laminate that can be dealt with.
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Practical Boat Owner
- Digital edition
Replacing headlinings: How to cure the droop
- Jake Kavanagh
- February 19, 2020
Are you coming unstuck? If your headlining is starting to part company with the deckhead, it’s time for a makeover. Jake Kavanagh follows professional upholsterer Roger Nantais as he refurbishes a Westerly Seahawk
The biggest enemy of foam-backed vinyl is water. If this leaks in through deck fittings, it can gradually rot the foam; the glue fails to grip on the crumbling mess, and eventually the vinyl will start to fall down. Many owners make valiant attempts to fix the vinyl back up, but this can often create more problems than it solves.
This article deals with linings stuck to hull sides. You can also stick them to removable plywood panels, which we followed in this article: Making Headlining Panels.
On Jane Scott and Chris Smith’s 18-year-old Westerly Seahawk 2+2, a combination of leaking deck fittings and high Mediterranean temperatures had gradually perished the foam backing, and the boat was looking decidedly scruffy inside. They decided to call in professional upholsterer Roger Nantais, who refurbished the linings from stem to stern. PBO followed his progress to learn some useful trade secrets.
Preparation ‘You really need power,’ Roger explained. ‘It’s possible to use hand tools, but the task is made much easier if you can use a hot-air gun, a vacuum cleaner and a drill with a wire brush attachment.’
As a result, the Westerly was moved from her mooring in Poole Harbour to Davis’s boatyard in nearby Hamworthy, where Roger was able to hook up to shore power.
Depending on the state of decay, it may not be necessary to renew all the headlinings at once, but on older boats you could have trouble matching the colours. This Westerly had fairly standard white linings thoughout, complemented by plywood panels on the deckhead in the saloon. In some areas, the original linings were trapped under substantial deck fittings, such as the chain plate bases, which Roger decided to work around.
With the headlinings down, many owners use the opportunity to check hidden wiring, and get to the base of any leaking deck-fittings. These need to be re-sealed before being covered in foam again. We started with the forward cabin first, which was the most badly affected.
Stripping off The forecabin on this boat, as on many similar designs, has a complex headlining made of several panels of vinyl, all sewn together into a contoured piece. It may seem daunting to replace, but the procedure is quite straightforward.
1: All the wooden trims and beadings are unscrewed. These won’t be used again, because the edges they normally hide will be made to look neater with stitching
2: The vinyl panels are peeled back carefully, while trying to keep them in one piece to use as a pattern
3: Any stubborn patches can be loosened with a hot-air gun
4: Before removing a panel, clearly mark its position and orientation – in this case, port lower, with the arrow pointing towards the bow
The hatch trim is unscrewed, and the side facing the bow marked with pencil so the screw holes can be relocated
6: a blade is run around the edges of the window to free the vinyl. The window surrounds will be removed later
7: With the amount of degradation to the foam, the headlining piece comes down easily – and usefully intact
8: The upholsterer will use the old headlining as a template for sewing the panels that will make the new one
9: The window backs are held in place by flush-fitting bolts, which need to be removed from both the outside…
10: …and the inside. This will require two people in the more inaccessible areas. Those shown here present no problem for the solo worker
11: If the window frame is a bit stubborn, it can be prized off with a screwdriver, but be careful not to kink the metal.
12: With the inner frame removed, the vinyl beneath it can be stripped away. Remember to mark the frame in pencil to aid reassembly
13: With all the vinyl panels marked up and removed, now comes the messy bit. Use the wire brush and hot-air gun to clean off all the old glue and foam. Previous attempts at re-sticking may have resulted in hard patches of glue, which have absorbed some of the crumbling foam. The smoother you can make the inside of the hull, the neater the finish will be. Sweep up with the vacuum cleaner, and make sure you wear a dust mask.
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- 2. Relining the cabin
- 3. Tools of the trade
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Ladyship: Reinventing a Westerly Pageant 23
Posted by Rob Hoffman | Boat Reviews
Ladyship started life in 1971 as a twin-keel Westerly Pageant 23, exported from England to a Westerly dealer on the lower Chesapeake Bay. She moved from there to an owner in Virginia and somehow ended up in Corpus Christi, Texas, where she had a couple of owners. We suspect she might have been sunk at some point, possibly the victim of a hurricane, as we found hidden mud debris inside her that could not have arrived there otherwise.
When we found her, she had been confiscated for non-payment of yard storage and was in a salvage yard about to be scrapped. We bought her through an eBay ad. She had no trailer, but had her mast and boom, albeit in sorry shape.
I had been intrigued with twin-keelers for quite a while after reading about Lord Riverdale’s exploits with Bluebird of Thorne , his twin-keel ocean racer. I then read a treatise by Bray Yacht Design in Canada that further served to kindle my interest. This is perhaps the best argument in their favor and is well worth reading: Bray Yacht Design – Twin Keels .
From a practical standpoint, the Westerly Pageant also boasted interior accommodations still unmatched in any other 23-foot sailboat. It has more than 6 feet of standing headroom below and an enclosed head. The storage capacity is also comparatively large and, while not ever considered a “racer,” it was built in the early days of fiberglass boat construction under Lloyd’s Registry inspection. If anything, it is overbuilt by today’s standards and very solid, if comparatively heavy. My challenge was to see if we could substantially improve the performance of this very roomy, comfortable, but rather stodgy old British design and still retain most of her original character and benefits that are so enduring.
Major surgery, we cut our the aft cockpit seats and cut a hole in the hull
Making a plan
I retained the services of Cortland Steck, the same naval architect we had worked with before on our Alubat modifications (Good Old Boat, March 2013). Cort, who had been with Hunter Marine for quite a while, and I worked together to come up with this makeover of our Pageant 23. We decided to call her a Mark II version, as her changes were substantial enough to almost make her a different boat from the original Laurent Giles design. Westerly built 551 Pageants over about a nine-year production span.
There are always things that hindsight would dictate be done differently, but for the most part, we consider the project to be quite successful and the boat has performed well over several cruises and even in a regatta where she garnered second place on elapsed time in a field of about eight other sailboats of various designs, some of them much larger.
As well as generally cleaning and refinishing the boat, we made a number of major changes.
The rig was enlarged a little to add a bowsprit and a removable inner forestay. The new bowsprit is made of ipe, a hardwood that is considerably stronger than teak. An inner “soft” forestay now carries a small soft-luff roller-furling (non-reefing) lapper jib that is sheeted to new inboard tracks on top of the cabin. It can be easily removed and stored below when we want to use the larger 130 percent genoa on the headstay roller furler. We use the inner headsail in heavier wind conditions rather than reefing the big genoa, as it has a more efficient shape and can be sheeted closer inboard for higher pointing ability. It replaces the original baby stay, which is no longer needed since we added swept-back spreaders and moved the shroud chainplates aft. Sail area has increased a little as a result and the original tendency to carry too much weather helm has been eliminated by the bowsprit.
Hunter Riddle of Schurr Sails in Pensacola, Florida, designed and built the new loose-footed mainsail and both headsails. As cruisers, we do not normally carry a spinnaker, but the boat is rigged for one.
A new mast tabernacle was fabricated that allows the mast to be stored on the boat when in trailer mode. The pivot point is above the boom, which stays mounted to the tabernacle and does not need to be removed for travel. The original Proctor mast was reused, stripped of its gold-colored anodizing. It was refurbished with new swept-back spreaders that take the shrouds to new chainplates about a foot aft of their original position.
We rebuilt the aft end of the cockpit
I’m a big fan of a sturdy arch assembly on the stern, and I’ve used one on both of our boats. In each case they were built strong enough to serve as the structural attachment point for a split backstay. In Ladyship’ s case, the arch also holds an elevated top-mounted traveler that controls the boom and the mainsheet. The traveler and mainsheet lines are led down the sides of the arch into the cockpit through blocks and cam cleats. The top of the arch is a fine place for mounting larger solar panels, and Ladyship carries two 100-watt panels as well as antennas on fold-down mounts for travel. The arch also supports the boom and mast when the mast is down and Ladyship is in travel mode on her trailer.
The sides of the arch structure carry a swiveling outboard motor carrier for the dinghy, a hard-case LifeSling MOB (man overboard) device, a center-mounted block and tackle for lifting the main propulsion outboard motor out of its well high enough for service, and a solid attachment point for the lifelines. The “roof” provided by the arch also serves as a connector point for a canvas panel (removable and without any frame) that extends overhead coverage all the way aft from the dodger. All this makes the cockpit very protected and secure. LED lights mounted under the arch illuminate the cockpit at night.
The outboard motor is raised and lowered on slides inside the well.
Outboard motor
A winch powered by a 12-volt motor provides the muscle.
The most invasive and extreme departure from the original design is the use of an outboard motor in a built-in well that allows the motor to be retracted vertically with a 12-volt winch motor, thus removing all prop drag under sail. A pair of spring-loaded bomb-bay-style door panels automatically close and seal the hull aperture as the motor and prop travel upward.
In order to build the motor well, the original tiller and rudder were removed and the stern cockpit locker and a portion of the cockpit were cut away. A new vertical workboat-type tiller controls a new transom-mounted blade rudder via a line-and-block system. The use of a vertical tiller that does not sweep across the sitting area increased the usable space in the smallish and deep cockpit.
Bomb-bay doors close the motor well when the outboard is retracted. The guard around the propeller pushes the doors open when the motor is lowered.
Moving the rudder aft to the transom also required the fabrication of a new rudder mount and reinforcement of the transom to take the additional loads. The rudder’s new location places it in the propeller’s thrust stream power and makes turning in close quarters like having “power steering.”
Ladyship originally had a small Volvo MD-1 inboard diesel. The motor in use now is a 20-horsepower 4-stroke Tohatsu with a normal short shaft and a low-speed pusher prop. It has turned out to be more power than needed, but was originally selected for its larger alternator. In hindsight, I would now choose something smaller like a Yamaha 4-stroke 9.9 high-thrust motor, which would be smaller and lighter and still able to achieve hull speed. The trade-off for lower alternator output has been more than made up for by the 200 watts of solar panels we have on the stern arch.
Both sides of the new motor well are now lockers with removable tops for access. One of these lockers houses the 18-gallon gas tank and the other houses the 12-volt winch motor for the motor-lifting rig, the starting battery, and general storage for fenders and other equipment. Tracks on the tops of these lockers support removable one-person seats on each side of the center motor well.
Both of our boats have a very sturdy boarding ladder that’s permanently mounted on the stern and folds up vertically to be secured under the arch. These ladders can be deployed instantly and extend downward enough to allow the boats to be boarded easily and safely while on their trailers.
Down below, most of the original design and layout was retained. Because the boat no longer carries an inboard diesel, that space was used to install a Mermaid water-cooled air-conditioning system with vents that discharge into the saloon and, via ducting, into the V-berth area. This unit uses one of three Marelon below-the-waterline through-hulls to bring in cooling water for its compressor. As we sail mostly in southern climates, that makes Ladyship ’s interior very comfortable on hot and muggy nights in a marina. We have no AC generator, so the air-conditioning is for dockside use only. At anchor, there is usually enough breeze to keep the cabin cool.
Ladyship has a small enclosed head compartment, which now houses a marine head from SeaLand that sits atop its own gravity-fed holding tank. It has no flush plumbing to clog, just a large foot-operated ball valve. It uses a little fresh water to flush. The tank is connected to a deck pumpout with a Y-valve, so the contents can be discharged overboard via a through-hull with a 12-volt diaphragm pump where that’s legal.
The original stainless-steel freshwater tank located under the V-berth was retained with the addition of a top-mounted inspection port for cleaning. It holds about 13 gallons and is filled through a deck plate. The boat had a foot pump that fed one fixture in the galley sink from this water tank. We added a small 12-volt pressure pump to power this system. It now also supplies flushing water to the head and also to a hose bib mounted in the cockpit for rinsing things (like dogs). This hose bib can be back-fed with a hose and pressure reducer from dockside if desired.
The galley is minimal and includes a small sink with one freshwater faucet. We did replace the old countertop with a new one of Corian. For cooking, we use a non-pressurized two-burner gimbaled Origo alcohol stove. For refrigeration, we carry a single 12-volt Engel MRO40F-U1 fridge-freezer recessed into a cutout in the port quarter berth top adjacent to the galley. We use neither of our quarter berths for sleeping and they now serve for storage only. To access the aft portion of these old quarter berths more easily, we installed a pair of aluminum hatches on the cockpit seats. We installed another matching hatch on the cockpit sole for access to the bilge pumps and the air-conditioner’s cooling-water pump. There is also some storage there for a toolbox.
Ladyship’ s saloon has a new fold-up table that lowers into a double-berth position. The forward V-berths are also comparatively large and quite comfortable. We had new cushions made of 4-inch closed-cell foam covered with gray Sunbrella fabric.
The boat originally had a vinyl headliner with a foam backing that had been removed. We elected not to replace any of it, but instead we cleaned the surface and painted it with a single-part epoxy semi-gloss paint over a primer coat mixed with microsphere insulating beads.
As built, the boat had fixed saloon windows and only a pair of small round opening portlights in the head and locker areas. We removed the saloon windows and replaced them with smoke-gray Plexiglas panels that cover the entire area around the cutouts. Four new Vetus opening portlights with screens were then fitted in the Plexiglas. New round Vetus portlights were also installed forward along with a pair of rectangular side portlights for additional ventilation in the V-berth. A forward hatch over the V-berth was rebuilt, reglazed with gray Plexiglas and fitted with a solar-powered vent. New window and cabin interior trim was built of mahogany and stained to match what was left of the original interior woodwork.
The electrical system
The boat had no electrical system when we rescued her. There were remnants of old wiring that had to be removed before we completely re-wired her for both 12-volt DC and 120-volt AC circuits. Shorepower (30 amps) is brought aboard though an external plug aft that has a DEI Marine isolation device on the ground wire. The boat has several internal GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) AC sockets, and the air-conditioner has to have shorepower AC as well.
The boat has a Magnum MMS pure-sine-wave inverter/charger on the DC side that feeds a house bank of two GC-12 golf cart batteries. They give us a house capacity of 360 amp hours, which is sufficient for the electronics, Engel fridge, and all the LED lights throughout the boat.
Our electronic package includes a VHF radio and a GPS chart plotter with Wi-Fi capability. The entertainment system is a Tivoli CD player and FM-XM stereo bookshelf system mounted to the forward saloon bulkhead. The boat has active AIS (Automatic Identification System) installed and uses LED running lights. We have a tiller-pilot autopilot. The instrument package includes a conventional bulkhead compass in the cockpit and a single multi-function display head that displays information from the depth sounder and the masthead-mounted sensor for wind speed and direction.
A custom Blue Seas breaker panel controls both the AC and DC sides. The entire DC panel supply is fed through a DC-DC converter that stabilizes the 12-volt power and prevents any voltage spikes that might kill the LED lights. The boat has several internal 12-volt cigarette lighter outlets and a single fan in the V-berth. One of the 12-volt sockets has a cell phone USB charger built into it.
We use a Blue Sky Energy MPPT solar charge controller to handle the power input from our two solar panels that charge the house bank. Our charging sources for the batteries are the solar panels, the motor’s alternator output, and the Magnum inverter/charger when on shorepower.
We moved the house bank of batteries to a more amidships location and left a smaller starting battery aft for the motor. The motor is connected directly to this smaller 12-volt battery and, when it’s fully charged, the engine alternator’s output is then automatically directed to the house bank via a Balmar parasitic charger. The engine battery and the house bank are normally isolated from each other but can be combined in an emergency.
One of the cast-iron keels, the aluminum arch, and the lifelines are all electrically bonded to the mast for a lightning-discharge path to the water.
Rob cut about 6 inches off the bottom of each keel with a gas-powered concrete saw.
The sail area and the ballast/displacement ratio were recalculated to evaluate what could be safely done to improve performance. Naval architect Cortland Steck determined that our keels could be shortened by about 6 inches to give us a more favorable sail area/displacement ratio in the high teens and also to reduce wetted-surface area. These boats were over-ballasted to begin with and can benefit from some ballast removal. The specified cast iron (about 600 pounds) was removed using a gas-powered concrete saw with a diamond blade — not a job for the faint of heart!
To maintain and improve our pointing ability, we reshaped the keels’ airfoil profiles to make them slightly asymmetrical, as was originally desired in the Laurent Giles design but not implemented by Westerly due to production cost considerations. The inside surfaces of the keels were built up by about ½ inch at the apex of the chord section and the external sides were flattened some by shape sanding before all the corrosion pitting was filled. Both were then faired out and painted with an epoxy barrier. The resulting asymmetrical profile shape tends to lift the boat to weather and also reduces heeling a little.
The keels are attached to the boat with sturdy 1-inch-diameter stainless-steel bolts. We inspected them closely when we dropped the keels to clean and reseal the hull-to-keel joints with 3M 5200 and found them to be in great shape. Because the boat has no inboard engine and attendant prop shaft, Ladyship ’s bilges are normally completely dry. The air-conditioner’s condensate never gets into the bilges because it is removed by a venturi suction device powered by the water stream exiting the cooling water circuit.
Artist Bill Barnhart adds finishing touches to the crazy topsides!
Miscellaneous
The boat has an automatic 12-volt bilge pump and a manual diaphragm bilge pump with the pump handle socket in the cockpit.
Externally, we were able to repair and refurbish the original teak rubrail while using an automotive spray enamel to repaint any of the deck and topsides areas that we did not cover with Kiwi-Grip non-skid product.
A new cockpit dodger was built by JSI in Florida, who also built the stern arch and mast tabernacle. They also did the new lifelines and supplied a lot of the running rigging and new standing rigging.
We carry three anchors: a primary Bulwagga, a second claw-style on the bow, and a single smaller claw as our stern anchor. I fabricated new PVC chain pipes for the two bow anchor rodes that are now led down into a separated stowage area all the way forward under the V-berth. The rode for the stern anchor is stowed adjacent to the fuel tank locker.
We carry Ladyship on a custom aluminum tandem-axle trailer with surge brakes. The trailer has an extending tongue that allows for launching at most ramps. After the modifications to the keels, the boat now draws 3 feet and, including the trailer, weighs in at around 7,500 pounds. We pull with a GMC 2500HD diesel truck.
The hull’s paint job was done by a friend and fellow sailor we met at Lake Havasu. Bill Barnhart is an internationally recognized fine artist, painter, print maker, architectural designer, and sculptor. He’s also a fine sailor and a boat restorer of considerable skill.
Ladyship is frequently trailered, albeit behind a ¾-ton truck.
Good Old Regatta fun
Ladyship participated in the 2015 St. Petersburg Classic (Good Old Boat) Regatta, a charity event for Meals on Wheels put on every year by the St. Petersburg Yacht Club and St. Petersburg Sailing Association. Bill Wright crewed for Gabi and me and we were amazed at how well Ladyship performed. We raced in the Good Old Fun class that consisted of older boats of many different designs. Our class was not under any handicap rules; the boats were placed simply on elapsed time over the usual triangular club-racing course on Tampa Bay. We came in second in a field of about eight other boats and even beat a few others on elapsed time that were in the faster handicapped classes. Most of the race was in light-air conditions in which any stock Westerly twin-keeler would have found herself barely able to finish. Many of the other boats were DNF due to light air. One skipper was certain we had our motor on — LOL. We had it fully retracted!
In Good Old Boat May 2016, Allen Penticoff reviewed the Westerly Pageant, a 23-foot twin-keel sloop built by Westerly Marine in England. The boat had been highly customized, so we cautioned readers that Ladyship , as she is named, is not representative of all Pageants. In fact, she is unique and well worked on, we thought readers would enjoy learning more about her refit from the man responsible. Here, in his own words, is Rob Hoffman’s story.
Article from Good Old Boat Magazine, May/June 2016.
About The Author
Rob Hoffman
Rob Hoffman says he’s much like his own good old boats…aging and in constant need of restoration. He learned to sail from a Cuban instructor in Guantanamo Bay while in the Navy patrolling the Windward Passage during the Cuban missile crisis. He’s hooked on restoring and sailing older sailboats.
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Westerly Centaur 26, rusty keels a deal breaker?
- Add to quote
Hi Folks!! I'm in the market for my first sailboat and have my eye on a Westerly Centaur 26. I saw the boat today but since I'm still a novice was confused about some things. Unfortunately the owner of the boat is recently deceased so I can't ask him any questions about the maintanence, all I can go off is how she looks and what the yard manager has told me about the owner and the care he took of the boat. The keels (twin keel boat) are very rusty and I don't know if this is from lack of paint the last year or is there a deeper problem and maybe the keels need to be rebedded. Also, is the rebedding of a keel (s) a huge monstrous scary job for a newbie like me to undertake with the help of a few more experienced sailors? Please take a look at the photos and tell me what you think!!! Thanks!!
Attachments
That looks to have suffered some serious degradation. My advice is to go to YouTube and search for a channel called Keep Turning Left. He is a wonderful bloke who knows the Centaur inside and out and will give you his honest opinion. While there watch some of his videos. He is an artist and it shows in his work. Hope you enjoy the boat if you buy it! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
sweet thank you I just sent him an email
I should have added that I don't think your problem is terminal. Most likely dropping the keels, rebedding them and fair the rest. Looks salvageable but make sure your offer reflects the work involved. Keep Turning Lefts videos will provide you with entertainment between you work on the boat. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I owned a Westerly Cirrus. Spent more than a year restoring her. She was one of the sweetest sailing boats I have ever been on and still regret selling her. She didn't have the twin keels but did have slight degradation at the same location. However, it was nowhere near the degree of your photos. Best of luck!
The twin keel Centaur has a well known structural issue relating to the keel fixings. You need to investigate the area around the keel bolts for cracking and delamination. Such damage can be repaired but it is not a trivial exercise. Get the keels sand blasted and epoxy coated while they are off. But do your sums first and decide if you want to spend a season fixing things or do you want a sailaway boat.
I've done a couple of iron keels (pics of latest before & after attached) and have attached an old post I wrote about the procedure. It's a big job but mostly hard work - doesn't require any special skills. Looking at your pics I would definitely have them sandblasted. When they get that scabrous you will never get them clean enough by hand for the coatings to last. Quote: Originally Posted by matjay View Post From the research I've done it seems to me the best approach is to sandblast the keel white, then immediately apply a base layer of epoxy. Any recommendations as to what to use for the base layer? Is something like WEST systems alright, or is a zinc enriched epoxy necessary? Sandblasting is correct - any grinding method will not clean ALL the pitted areas fully and future failures will start there. Just use regular epoxy resin as a seal coat - nothing fancy, just get it on right after blasting and a solvent wipe. You can't even leave this step overnight. West is only more expensive - twice as much as the industrial no-name resin I use. Stone fabricators - counter tops etc. use a lot of epoxy - check around and you'll save $hundreds. Quote: Moving on to a filler, again is WEST ok? and how many coats is recommended? Again, West only costs more. Get a cement bag of industrial talc for about $20. It makes the most beautifully sanding filler you have ever experienced. Mix it to peanut butter consistency with epoxy and you probably won't even have any pinholes to fill after sanding. Quote: Many people claim to use a notched squeegee or trowel to apply the epoxy, and then fill in between the created lines? is this necessary? This makes it MUCH easier to get an even coat. Unless you're an experienced plasterer, using a plain trowel will give you a very uneven thickness. You do NOT want to sand through to metal, ever, or you will have to start over there. You want a reasonably thick finished coat - 1/8" min. is my preference - in order to ensure the metal stays buried. Get an autobody longboard sander (pic attached) - they look kind of like an old smoothing plane, about 18" long and take pre-cut strips of sandpaper. This will help you fair up your keel - mine ended up looking like it had been templated. I finished mine off with 3 coats of epoxy resin and 3 coats of Interprotect (there was still discussion as to the best sealer at that time). Now I'd just use Interprotect for all coats.
I am assuming this is a near free project boat. If so the Keel is likely the least of your worries. These are kind of odd duck boats, I looked at a Westerly and kind of liked it. I liked the almost cartoonish look to it. They kind of remind me of the Robert Perry sketches of impossible little ships. The one I looked at was a 28 footer, with a single longish fin keel. It had the interior cleaned up but need to be totally redone (no cushions and what not) and the galley was a mess and had no inboard, but a good outboard. But otherwise appeared to be in decent shape and good usable sails. But she was going for around $500 or so for the boat. Fin was in better shape, but likely woudl have needed the same treatment, really does not matter if it is good or bad, unless it is excellent, it will need to be blasted and epoxied every so often. The process is really about the same for a rough one as for a good one so long as it is not structurally damaged. A rough one might take a bit more fairing compound. Thing is these boats are popular in the UK, especially the twin keelers, but here in the US they are not so much so. But they seem to have a lot of character. So if it is decent they look like they could be fun, in the same way an MG is fun. Not really what most Americans are going to be attracted to, but kind of fun to putter around with. So if it is solid otherwise I don't think the keels looks awful, just know it will take a few weeks of work and a fair chunk of change to do it. The Epoxy, fairing compound and bottom paint for the whole boat will likely only be in the range of $500 but a good sand blaster will be at least twice that, and you don't want an amateur for this.
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Review of Westerly 25
Basic specs..
The hull is made of fibreglass. Generally, a hull made of fibreglass requires only a minimum of maintenance during the sailing season. And outside the sailing season, just bottom cleaning and perhaps anti-fouling painting once a year - a few hours of work, that's all.
The boat equipped with a masthead rig. The advantage of a masthead rig is its simplicity and the fact that a given sail area - compared with a fractional rig - can be carried lower and thus with less heeling moment.
Unknown keel type
The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 0.76 - 0.86 meter (2.49 - 2.79 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.
Sailing characteristics
This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.
What is Capsize Screening Formula (CSF)?
The capsize screening value for Westerly 25 is 1.87, indicating that this boat could - if evaluated by this formula alone - be accepted to participate in ocean races.
What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?
The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 6.1 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.
The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Westerly 25 is about 96 kg/cm, alternatively 542 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 96 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 542 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.
Sailing statistics
This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.
What is Motion Comfort Ratio (MCR)?
What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?
What is a Ballast Ratio?
What is Displacement Length Ratio?
SA/D (Sail Area Displacement ratio) Indicates how fast the boat is in light wind: - Cruising Boats have ratios 10-15 - Cruiser-Racers have ratios 16-20 - Racers have ratios above 20 - High-Performance Racers have ratios above 24 Sail-area/displacement ratio (SA/D ratio): 17.46
Maintenance
When buying anti-fouling bottom paint, it's nice to know how much to buy. The surface of the wet bottom is about 14m 2 (150 ft 2 ). Based on this, your favourite maritime shop can tell you the quantity you need.
If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.
| Usage | Length | Diameter | ||
| Jib sheet | 7.6 m | (25.1 feet) | 10 mm | (3/8 inch) |
| Genoa sheet | 7.6 m | (25.1 feet) | 10 mm | (3/8 inch) |
| Mainsheet | 19.1 m | (62.7 feet) | 10 mm | (3/8 inch) |
| Spinnaker sheet | 16.8 m | (55.1 feet) | 10 mm | (3/8 inch) |
This section is reserved boat owner's modifications, improvements, etc. Here you might find (or contribute with) inspiration for your boat.
Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what you have done.
We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Westerly 25 it would be a great help.
If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.
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Search our catalog, go direct, enter a boat reference, westerly konsort, comfortable bilge keel cruiser, £ 0 sold / unavailable.
- Boat REF# · 325305
- Length · 8.79m
- Year · 1979
- Construction · GRP
- Underwater profile · Bilge
- Sleeping berths · 4
- Engine · 1 x diesel 18hp, Volvo Penta (1979)
- Lying · Milford Marina
Boatshed Wales
This boat is off the market but here are some boats that are still for sale.
- Specification
- Additional Information
Extra Details
| Designer | Laurent Giles | Builder | Westerly Yachts | Lying | Milford Marina | Fuel capacity | 68.0 ltr (15.0 USG) Total - 1 Tanks | Water capacity | 150.0 ltr (33.0 USG) Total - 1 Tanks |
|---|
| Engine | 1 x diesel 18hp | Engine make and model | Volvo Penta (1979) | Engine Hours | Not Recorded | Steering | tiller | Drive | shaft | Prop(s) | 4 Blade Bronze | Fuel consumption (approx) | Not Recorded | Cruising speed (approx) | 5 knots | Max speed (approx) | 6 knots |
|---|
| Length | 8.79m | LWL | 7.77m | Beam | 3.28m | Draft Min | 1.62m | Draft Max | 1.62m | Displacement | 3,862kg (8,515.7lbs) | Storage | Ashore |
|---|
Sloop rigged Aluminium spars (1979) with Stainless Steel standing rigging (2015)
| Reefing mainsail | - Slab () 2 Reefs | Headsail | North Sails - Furling (2019) |
|---|
Electrical Systems
12 volt battery, 240 shore power voltage,
Construction
| Construction | GRP | Underwater profile | Bilge | Finish | Paint finish |
|---|
Accommodation
| Total # of berths | 4 | No. of double berths | 2 | No. of single berths | 1 | Cabin(s) | 1 | Sink | 1 | Heads | 1 heads (Manual) |
|---|
2 burner propane Stove
| Stove | Broiler | Oven | Sink | Carpet | Manual water system | Pressurised water system |
|---|
| Sail cover | Sprayhood | Rode | Fenders | Boathook | Swim Ladder | Instrument Covers |
|---|
2 halyard winches 2 sheet winches Manual Lofrans windlass 1 anchors (Plough) 20.00m of chain 30.00m of rode
Nav Equipment
| Compass | Speed | Wind | VHF DSC radio | Chart plotter | Barometer | Navigation lights | Depth sounder |
|---|
Safety Equipment
| Swim ladder |
|---|
2 bilge pumps (1 manual / 1 electric)
Broker's Comments
The Westerly Konsort has a great following and for good reason, safe, stable, roomy and able to take to the ground. A great all-round boat for cruising UK coastal waters and further afield if desired.
This model benefits from lots of careful restoration internally, giving the boat a warm, dry and inviting feel. Fresh, light upholstery, new head lining and new cooker/stove unit all add to the appeal of time spend aboard this spacious bilge keel cruiser.
Externally the boat has new anodes fitted and a fresh coat of anti foul. The top-sides show some minor age related scuffs but retain a glossy shine.
Please feel free to send an email or give me a call for further details.
These boat details are subject to contract. Note: Offers on the asking price may be considered.
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Westerly Jouster for sale
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Manufacturer
1 New and Used Westerly Jouster
Westerly Jouster
Rhu (United Kingdom)
OFFERED BY:
Miles Stratton Marine Sales Ltd
The Westerly Jouster is a lovely little crusing yacht with 4 berths, a galley and marine heads. This fin keel yacht is ideal for costal hopping and weekends away and pretty rob...
* Price displayed is based on today's currency conversion rate of the listed sales price.
WESTERLY JOUSTER RELATED MODELS
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Replace or restore Windows on a Westerly
- Thread starter FairweatherDave
- Start date 18 Jan 2022
- 18 Jan 2022
FairweatherDave
Well-known member.
Windows or Portlights? Boat windows. I'm not too fussed what to call them but mine are in a sorry state on my Konsort. I can't avoid the problem any longer. The opening ones in the forepeak and heads and opposite cannot be opened, have been painted and siliconed at some stage. The ones in the main cabin look a bit better,no paint, but the seals are gone and again the previous owner has used silicon liberally. I will only admit to using Captain Tolly's at the start of last season. I'm after some pointers here. I am a member of WOA and not yet found anything there, I know it must exist. My searches here have found older posts eg 2012 so the links are often useless. All I have found so far are Eagle Boat Windows and Seals Direct. I'm happy trying to pull out the units and replace but I'm quite inclined to give them to someone else to magically refurbish. Recommendations local to Emsworth/Brighton are good, but any links to useful old threads or recent experience much appreciated.
RivalRedwing
Eagle were good for me (about 5 years ago, windows still fine), happy to recommend
I had my fixed “windows “ on my W25 re sealed by a mobile plant window specialist years ago. He stripped off the old seals and fitted new. Suggest you try earthmover and caravan specialists
Motor_Sailor
RivalRedwing said: Eagle were good for me (about 5 years ago, windows still fine), happy to recommend Click to expand...
oldmanofthehills
I take it you are discussing those nasty nasty but iconic square scuttles. They love to leak and corrode. A friend replaced his on a Westerly and gave us his 4 old ones as a job lot. We cannibalised them to get 2 good ones fr the forepeak one of which worked and one of which still leaked. The square frames distort which is why all normal scuttles are round. This distortion causes leaks. All you can do is remove dissamble, clean and remove corrosion and try new seals. However make sure there is no leak between window and hull after replacing unit as then you are just changing one problem for another.
I am talking the iconic square scuttles, and the four long windows in the main area. I was holding off thinking really I should replace the headlining and do a full rewire at the same time. But that "ideal world" thought has made the job way too big given I want to relaunch near Easter and the rest of life gets in the way. So I will tackle the windows. I phoned Eagle and had a friendly preliminary chat.....need to take photos and measure outside dimensions. His turnaround time is about three weeks at the moment, so that fits well with me. But how much the quote will be will be interesting. I read one Westerly article suggesting 8 hours a window DIY.....not sure I'd want to do that.
I spent 1hr removing 2 square scuttles and perhaps 2 hours refitting, plus maybe 3 hours refurb, and then 3 hours trying to get rubber seals in on new saloon window. So 9 hours. A yard/window fiter would charge minimum of £40 p hour thus £360 plus travel, plus sealant and screws Nothing like 8 hours per window though fiddly enough, and I may work faster than some, particularly if its losing me wages on the day job
chrishscorp
A friend of mine refurbished his square portlights and that was a WOA article it may be the one you read it was recent, in the last 2/3 years. I have just bought a Fulmar and some very kind soul previously took out the 4 windows in the saloon and changed them out for Lewmar opening ports which I imagine will be a god send in the summer. I know our boat has been to Europe so im guessing that that may be one of the reasons it was done for extra ventilation.
Before you try removing the windows, buy a cheese wire to cut the mastic between the frame and gel coat. This will help getting them out with little effort.
chrishscorp said: A friend of mine refurbished his square portlights and that was a WOA article it may be the one you read it was recent, in the last 2/3 years. Click to expand...
There are some sailing qualities I miss from our old Pentland, but some parts of the design were perverse - and who on earth fitted an aquavac with all its silly seals?
FairweatherDave said: I shall have to manually look at my pile of Westerly magazines.....I really struggled with the new Westerly forum today and really don't want to go on Westerly facebook (because its Facebook). And thanks for the tip Concerto (I might unwind some old brake cable......) Click to expand...
- 19 Jan 2022
chrishscorp said: 4 Mods on Facebook,1 of them wrote the article on the portholes and I am one of the others and yes the new forum could be more user friendly Click to expand...
I think Westerly window frames are secured with interscews / barrel bolts with the male part on the inside and the female part on the outside. Don't do what I did and try unscrewing them from the outside...
- 20 Jan 2022
Active member
Forum WOA ; there’s a new post will be of interest.
FairweatherDave said: Thanks, found it. Recommendations for Hadlow Marine if anyone else interested here. (My issue with the WOA forum is I have failed to be able to use it to search for old threads-- bizarrely I have now cracked it, maybe I needed to go through some initiation rites ) Click to expand...
- 24 Jan 2022
Little update. Managed to undo the vast majority of interscrews yesterday with someone holding a screwdriver on the inside. A couple needed boiling water heat treatment to free off (very rewarding) and a couple span freely and had obviously got no working threads. Maybe an hour and a half. Today spent several hours and managed to get all 8 windows out. The little squarish ones push into the cabin, the big ones push out onto the gunwhales. But much cutting of ******* silicon and tapping with a mallet alround on the big main cabin windows. Took loads of old chisels as wedges. I won't be using silicon when I put them back. Now to get quotes and see how shocking things will be (or will I DIY?). Pleased to be sorting the windows out whatever, the state of the seals was bad. Edit... I should add a thank you to the past contributors to the WOA magazines and WOA forum which I have made use of to different degrees. Found some good stuff with a bit of perseverance.
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COMMENTS
The Westerly Konsort Duo motor-sailer. Introduced in 1979, Westerly's last design by Laurent Giles remained in production until 1992. Over 600 were sold in the first six years, after which the price rose steeply and only a further 100 left the factory. About 150 of the 704 Konsorts built are fin-keelers.
Displacement: 3,863kg / 8,516 lb. Ballast: 1,451kg / 3,200 lb. Sail area: 36.33 m² / 391 sq ft. Price range: £10,000 - £30,000. Rachael Sprot joins one family who've re-purchased the Westerly Konsort they commissioned more than 40 years ago to find out if the boat's had her day.
Decided to go with 2 coats of paint, we used the same paint for the deck, but added some silica sand into the mix.
Most of the westerly yachts I have seen have a sort of light grey colour, I have had a look at internationals colour chart and the same colour isnt on there. I have chatted to another konsort owner in the marina and he said you have to mix the colours. ... Westerly Deck Paint I'm pretty sure Westerly used to use Blakes deck paint from their ...
On Jane Scott and Chris Smith's 18-year-old Westerly Seahawk 2+2, a combination of leaking deck fittings and high Mediterranean temperatures had gradually perished the foam backing, and the boat was looking decidedly scruffy inside. They decided to call in professional upholsterer Roger Nantais, who refurbished the linings from stem to stern.
Visit site. Hi, One of the jobs to do NEXT Winter on my Westerly Berwick is replacing the headlining and vinyl around the cabin walls, and I'm pondering options. I could replace again with original type foam backed vinyl, but within 10 years or so I suspect it would be back to square 1 with the famous 'Westerly droop". Other options would include:
The hull's paint job was done by a friend and fellow sailor we met at Lake Havasu. Bill Barnhart is an internationally recognized fine artist, painter, print maker, architectural designer, and sculptor. ... Allen Penticoff reviewed the Westerly Pageant, a 23-foot twin-keel sloop built by Westerly Marine in England.
Try David Hardy at Trafalgar Yacht Services 01329 823577 www.westerly-yachts.co.uk a very knowledgable westerly specialist . 30 Mar 2006 #3 J. Juggler7823 Member. Joined 16 May 2001 ... On most boats Westerly made this as a blue strip in the gelcoat not with paint. The colour is therefore a gelcoat pigment not paint. Usually the other stripes ...
Westerly Centaur: 2,500 of which were sold in a 10 year run starting in 1969. Westerly's first product was the Westerly 22 - a distinctive fibreglass boat that offered surprisingly good internal space, twin keels and shallow draught, and an easily handled rig. Over the next four years almost 800 boats based on the same hull were built ...
31K subscribers in the boatbuilding community. Boat Building general. Any posts related to repair and maintenance, new builds, tools, sail making…
The Epoxy, fairing compound and bottom paint for the whole boat will likely only be in the range of $500 but a good sand blaster will be at least twice that, and you don't want an amateur for this. 1976 C&C 33
The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Westerly 25 is about 96 kg/cm, alternatively 542 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 96 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 542 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.
The Westerly Konsort has a great following and for good reason, safe, stable, roomy and able to take to the ground. A great all-round boat for cruising UK coastal waters and further afield if desired. This model benefits from lots of careful restoration internally, giving the boat a warm, dry and inviting feel.
Explore a vast selection of new and used Westerly Jouster on Rightboat. Search, compare, and find your dream boat today. ... today. Trusted by over 500,000 buyers monthly! View over 1000s of new and used boats and yachts for sale online. Buy a boat, Sell or list your boat for rent or sale, find berths, and more. Boats For Sale Power Boats Sail ...
Practical Boat Owner's Reader to Reader . Westerly Paint. Thread starter oakleyb; Start date 3 Feb 2005; 3 Feb 2005 #1 O. oakleyb Member. Joined 23 Dec 2004 Messages 457 Location solent Visit site. Does anybody know the code for older westerly blue coach roof paint, and suppliers local to the Hamble ... Does anybody know the code for older ...
Westerly Vulcan 34 for sale in saint Malo France. View pictures and details of this boat or search for more Westerly boats for sale on boats.com. ... Like this boat? Find out more. CN DE LA VILLE AUDRAIN 1 BIS AVENUE LOUIS MARTIN . Saint-Malo, Ille-et-Vilaine France 0686403970.
Answered: Starting from November 14, some departures of the trains #83/#84 (Северный Урал) and #11/#12 (Ямал) will skip all stops from Perm-2 to Chusovskaya. These trains offer the best times to arrive in Perm from Nizhny Novgorod. May I ask what are the...
Traffic. This HD live webcam takes you to the city Solikamsk in the Russian Perm Krai. The online stream shows you the intersection of the major street Severnaya and Molodezhnaya street, including the local time and weather in Solikamsk. This city is one of the oldest towns in the Krai, with a rich heritage seen in many historical buildings ...
I spent 1hr removing 2 square scuttles and perhaps 2 hours refitting, plus maybe 3 hours refurb, and then 3 hours trying to get rubber seals in on new saloon window. So 9 hours. A yard/window fiter would charge minimum of £40 p hour thus £360 plus travel, plus sealant and screws.
The village Peremskoye (Перемское), Dobryansky District, Perm Krai, Russia. Post code 618706
Perm Oblast. Komi-Permyak Autonomous Okrug. Maximum temperature record. 42 degree Celsius. Minimum temperature record. −56 degree Celsius. official website. 59° 14′ 00″ N, 56° 08′ 00″ E.