sailboat masthead light

Navigation Lights for Sailboats (And How To Read Them)

Last Updated by

Capt Chris German

June 15, 2022

Navigation lights on a sailboat can be confusing. If you understand the reason behind why they are the way they are however, they can make a lot more sense.

At their heart, sailboats are really just a power boat and as such must adhere to all power boat rules such as navigation lights. Other times however, a sailboat is classified in a special category. They have a set of additional lights they CAN show as an option, but are not always required to do so.

That’s about as clear as mud if you ask me and I contend that that is where the confusion about lighting a sailboat begins.

Just because you can show a light to identify yourself in times of low visibility, does not mean you have to and then we add in a little sibling rivalry between power and sail and things get downright adversarial when it comes to navigation and the night.

Table of contents

The USCG says You’re a Power Boat Whether You Like It or Not

Much to the consternation of many a sailor who has earned a commercial license to drive their sailboat, when you received your credential from the USCG it says you are a master of steam and power across the top with no mention of wind as a source of propulsion.

It is not until you read the back pages of your little red book that feels like a passport and looks like a US Sailing credential, that you will see the term “sail auxiliary”. That is because most of the time the U.S. Coast Guard knows that you are primarily reliant on your mechanical power to propel your vessel.

It's a sad thing, but the days of commercially viable sail boats are done and all but the most select few even have sails let alone use them as their primary power source. All sail boats by law are powerboats, but not all powerboats are sailboats.

Navigation Lights for a Power Boat

As a power boat, you are required to show certain lights and have been required to do so before power was even invented. 

In the days of man powered vessels like the viking ships who relied on oars while in close quarters to power their vessels, they needed to show other boats, friend or foe, where they were by showing lanterns in the dark to identify themselves. As you know, it is a time honored rule among all the nations of the world both past and present, that you must avoid a collision at all costs while at sea and even the viking knew that you should not run into things.

By lighting the front and back of your boat, you could warn other boats of your presence as well as identify which way you were heading. As such there is a very specific rule in the Code of Federal Regulations Number 46 (CFR46 by common name) that spells out with detail how many, the color, the luminosity or brightness, the angle of visibility and the location of all of the lights required for navigation on every single boat, seaplane, submarine and other nondescript vessel conceived by man to date that they must show while underway in reduced visibility.

And there is no flexibility in the rules.

As such a power boat, and by extension all sailboats, MUST, without question show one green light on the starboard bow and one red light on the port bow and one all around white light or lights while operating in reduced visibility. These lights should shine at all 360 degrees of visibility with the bow lights shining at an angle of dead ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam and the stern lights shining 225 degrees dead aft. A forward facing masthead light that is white in color shall shine forward to comply with the directive that all vessels must carry an all around white light. For more read here .

As you can see, there isn’t much wiggle room when it comes to lights that must be shown.

Sailboats get a little flexibility with lights

Sailboats however, are a little different when they are in fact sailboats, which is only when you are entirely reliant on the wind for power and in no way reliant on any mechanical or manual means of propulsion. And for good reason.

Back in the day when men were men and sailboats were wooden, fire was a major concern. Sails were coated with wax and other flammable substances and the wood on boats was saturated with oils and grease. Even the ropes were plant materials saturated with oils to keep them pliable and strong.

Add those highly flammable substances to a parching environment like the sea and you had what was essentially a giant floating tinderbox.

Then tell that giant floating tinderbox that they need to identify themselves to the world at large at night using oil lamps with flames because batteries and lights were not invented yet. It didn't take very long or very many ships burning to the water line for the Governments to say to the sailboats, you get to do things a little different.

As such, sailboats are given special dispensation when it comes to lights aloft. They don't have to show an all around white light in their rigging because no one wanted to set their rig on fire with oil lamps 60 feet up in their rig.

However, when a sailboat takes their sails down such as when they are powered or at anchor, they must resume the display of an all around white light or lights aloft. That became a real challenge with aluminum masts and the disappearance of rat lines on the shrouds because there was no easy way to climb the rig and check the bulbs up the mast on a regular basis. 

Red over Green Sailing Machine

I have no idea where the history of this particular light comes from, but if you ever take a deck exam with the USCG, you better remember this mnemonic. An all around red light over an all around green may be displayed on a vessel during times of reduced visibility to indicate that a vessel is operating under sail power alone. 

I won’t even speculate on how or why they came up with this particular light configuration, but if you want to use these lights as a sailing vessel, you can do so, but that means that you will need three all round lights at the top of your mast, an all around white, an all around red and an all around green, just in that order.

The red over green is to be displayed in addition to the running lights or the red and green bow lights with the 225 degree stern light. As always, when the motor comes on, so does the steaming light or the forward facing white light that is also usually about ¾ of the way up on your mast to complete the requirement of an all around white light that indicates a power vessel.

What is a “steaming light” and why are you mentioning it now?

Most sailboat electrical panels will have a switch that is labelled “steaming light” and it will only come on when your anchor light is off. This is probably the most confusing part of sailboat navigation lights so if you are confused about this, you're in good company as most people are. 

A “steaming” light is named thusly, going back to the days of steam powered sailboats where when they fired up their boilers and doused the sails, they became a power boat once again. There aren’t too many steam powered boats, let alone steam powered sailboats, but the name stuck and it is a vestige of a bygone era.

Either way, when you fire up your motor, you turn on your “steaming light” and that locks out the all around white light which is used for anchoring to minimize the number of switches on your panel and reduce the number of wires in your mast. The fewer wires, the less chance of something not working or becoming disconnected.

The steaming light and the anchor light both go up the mast, but you can’t use an all around white light while using the 225 degree stern light at the deck level because to other boaters you would look like you have two white lights from the stern and that would be confusing.

The anchor light is used exclusively for anchoring while the steaming light is used to indicate you are a power vessel while underway.

As to why I am mentioning it now in the article, is because this would have blown your mind if I started with this subject cause it can be really confusing stuff.

Aspect Recognition with Lights

Remember when I said earlier that lights can help you tell others which way you are heading as well as tell you which way other boats are heading? That is called the aspect of the vessel and the USCG tests you on this for your deck exam as well. 

Knowing that the bow lights go 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on both sides or 112.5 degrees on each side, and the stern light faces 225 degrees aft for a total of 360 degrees of visibility, you can tell a lot about where a boat is heading and who has the right of way.

One thing that's easy to remember is red means stop and if you see a vessel's red light, it means stop as you are the give way vessel and approaching the other vessel from his port side. Conversely it works with green as well as that means you are approaching from the other vessel's starboard side and you are the standon vessel.

If you see a red and green light equally low on the horizon, that means your heading dead on into another vessel's path and conversely if all you see is a white light low on the horizon, it means you are overtaking another vessel power or sail, we don’t care because it is an overtaking situation. However, any time you do see a white light aloft in addition to the red and green bow lights, you know you are encountering a power boat.

Then there are angular approaches as well, where you see white and red or white and green light low on the horizon. You know in that case you are seeing a portion of the bow lights and stern lights from the side approaches of a vessel. Based on which direction those lights are heading, you can deduce which way that boat is going in relation to your boat.

So put it all together and you see a green light and a white light low on the horizon with a red over green light aloft, you know that you are approaching a sailboat that is traveling to your port and that might make you the standon vessel. That is of course, if we didn’t concern ourselves with windward and leeward and port tacks and starboard tacks, but that is a discussion for another article. So stay tuned when we talk about sailing rules and the right of way. But for now, do good, have fun and sail far.

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Capt Chris German is a life long sailor and licensed captain who has taught thousands to sail over the last 20 years. In 2007, he founded a US Sailing-based community sailing school in Bridgeport, CT for inner city youth and families. When Hurricane Sandy forced him to abandon those efforts, he moved to North Carolina where he set out to share this love for broadcasting and sailing with a growing web-based television audience through The Charted Life Television Network.

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Practical Sailor Tracks Down the Best LED Tri-color Light

Testers take a look at six bulbs and lanterns from the marine led navigation light market..

When it comes to navigation lights aboard sailboats, brighter is definitely better. And our latest tests of LED nav lights proved that more light can be made with less energy. In fact, we found that replacing a conventional incandescent bulb with a light-emitting diode (LED) of similar luminosity can result in up to a 90-percent savings in energy consumed over a given period of time.

Practical Sailor’ s previous evaluations of navigation lights (September 2005 and Jan. 15, 2002) were tests of tri-color

Photos by Ralph Naranjo

masthead lights, sidelights, sternlights, and all-around white lights.

For this review, we narrowed the test field and focused solely on LED tri-color navigation lights (sidelights and a stern light combined in a single fixture) because of the under-sail connotation. They are most often used when the engine is off and the alternator(s) is providing no energy boost to the battery bank. This is when miserly current consumption is most appreciated.

LED lights come in all sizes and shapes, and it has been their monumental improvement in efficiency that has made the technology so appealing to energy-constrained sailors.

In the past, the most popular means of meeting the U.S. Coast Guard’s navigation light requirements for boats under 65 feet (see “Nav Light Requirements,” below) was to use an Aqua Signal Series 40 tri-color lamp housing with its long-filament incandescent bulb. Its 25-watt energy appetite not only puts a significant load on the house battery bank, but it requires a heavier-gauge wire be run up the spar in order to avoid an energy-robbing voltage drop. Swapping out the incandescent bulb for an LED drops power consumption significantly and yields just as bright of a light. During a 10-hour night sail, this results in reducing current consumption from about 20 amp-hours down to a scan’t 2 amp-hours. This savings adds up, and the extra cost of the LED bulb or light will pay for itself in longevity and energy savings.

LED Evolution

Since the late 1960s, LEDs have followed a trend that amounts to almost a doubling of light output every 36 months. (If Wall Street had done the same, a $100 investment made in 1969 would today be worth over $500,000.)

Skipping all the esoteric physics and getting down to basics leaves us with one important concept to grasp: By passing a current through certain semiconductors (materials with only a few electron holes), the electron flow instigates photon release—or more simply put, light energy is emitted. Modern LEDs comprise an anode (+) and cathode (-) that meet in a tiny cup-like reflector that contains an “n” and a “p” layer of semiconductor material.

In order to achieve white or colored light, phosphor coatings are used. Another significant breakthrough was the prism-like lens and epoxy-sealed cavity that bundles up many of these semiconductors. The resulting “bulb” reflects and refracts the light energy produced, delivering a color-controlled beam. The plasma-like brilliance of a single-source light creates lens and reflector challenges that each light manufacturer has to deal

with. Some makers shape a single beam with lens elements while others use an array of multiple smaller LEDs.

What We Tested

Each of the six LED tri-color masthead lights we tested for this report took a different approach to implementing the LED technology. The test field included three LED lanterns and three LED bulbs.

From Orca Green Marine (OGM), maker of the top choice among tri-colors in the 2005 Practical Sailor test, we reviewed the latest USCG 2-nautical-mile approved tri-color. The other tested lanterns were self-contained tri-color/anchor light combos from Signal Mate and Lopolight.

Among the bulbs we tested was the Lunasea, a sealed, waterproof LED lamp comprising four green, six red, and six white LEDs. From the LED Shop in Queensland, Australia, we tested the Bay15D white LED bulb with 15 diodes. The supplier recommends its use as a low-consumption (2 watts vs. 25 watts) replacement bulb for the Aqua Signal 40 incandescent. The second sealed bulb we tested was from Dr. LED, and it is third-party certified to U.S. Coast Guard standards.

LED LANTERNS

Boat owners who don’t already have a masthead tri-color light, or who plan to replace an old one—hardware and all—would do well to consider an LED lantern.

Orca Green Marine

OGM Inc.’s USCG-approved (third-party tested) tri-color/anchor light (LXTA-12v) squeezes an amazing amount of light from a minimal amount of current (0.3 amps @ 12 volts-DC).

The well-sealed, nicely machined housing and large lenses keep the LEDs in direct line of sight, regardless of heel or the viewer’s proximity. Hard, anodized endcaps and Lexan outer lens elements form a tough, water-tight seal. Its internal

electronic components are potted in a dielectric sealant, and the lantern comes with a well-sealed pigtail connector.

The manufacturer claims a 50,000-hour full brightness LED life and offers a two-year warranty on the $340 lantern.

Testers’ main concern that arose during testing was that the OGM lantern produced the most RFI of all the gear we tested. Moving the handheld VHF radio to within 14 inches of the light obliterated radio reception.

Bottom line: The OGM lantern is the least expensive in its category, and it proved to be a well-made light. However, its RFI test results held it back.

This expensive, well-designed, and carefully manufactured LED tri-color/anchor light offers a multiple diode approach to illuminating each sector of coverage. The lamp’s geometry focuses individual LEDs in narrower beams and uses 36 to cover each colored zone and 44 in the white zone. In addition to adding redundancy with circuitry that allows individual diodes to fail without taking out the entire cluster, the design eliminated the hotspot inherent in tri-color lights that use single-point light sources for each sector.

This light offers a green that’s really green (see “Shades of Green,” page 14), a dead-ahead aspect with minimal overlap, and a crisp transition to the red zone. The Lopolight also sports a rugged, well-sealed housing that’s fully submersible.

Its current consumption is a tiny bit more than the most energy efficient in this group, but the value of having the light continue to work even if one or more diodes give up the ghost is a big plus.

At $689, the Lopolight was the most expensive product of all those we tested, but it also had the least RFI. It comes with a five-year warranty.

Bottom line: If quality construction and superior performance are your priorities—and cost isn’t a concern—the Lopolight will fit the bill. It gets the nod as Practical Sailor’s Best Choice.

Signal Mate

Signal Mate products are designed and manufactured by Maryland-based Kimberlite Assemblers Inc. The company sent us a pre-production version of its 2-nautical-mile tri-color lantern for testing.

The searing bright lantern scored high marks for energy efficiency. Its 0.3 amp draw at 12 volts DC compared to some of the more expensive lanterns.

The Signal Mate incorporates a finned alloy base that functions

as a heat sink and houses the driver and diodes within a polycarbonate cylindrical tube. Its endcaps and electronics are sealed and bedded in Dow Tough Gel.

Its cylindrical shape makes it well suited for masthead mounting. The light output did not appear hampered at all by the unit’s comparably small lenses, even at varying angles of heel.

The design, with a single light source per sector, created a white hotspot, but from 50 to 100 yards away, it was undetectable. Hotspots, a bright white spot that occurs when a single-point white light source illuminates a colored faceted lens, are common to this design.

Just before going to press with this review, Signal Mate sent us its new production version of this lamp. Like the pre-production unit, the LED circuitry is enclosed in a polycarbonate cylinder, but it now incorporates O-ring seals and 3M 5200 adhesive to better cope with thermal expansion and contraction. Heat dissipation and RFI suppression have been improved, and the overall fit and finish have been raised a notch. The light is certified to USCG and American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC)-16 standards.

Bottom line: The $359 Signal Mate tri-color is a cost-effective option with a good five-year warranty, and the new version boasts some necessary improvements.

The new breed of LED bulbs can add efficiency to those old Aqua Signal, Hella, and Perko incandescent nav lights that have been serving boats for decades. These plug-and-play conversions from incandescent to much more efficient LED technology are capturing market share, and the degree of this success has inspired Aqua Signal to come out with its own single-diode LED light and a new line of LED products. For those with older lamps such as the venerable Aqua Signal 40 tri-color, the following three bulb options represent good examples of what’s available in the realm of LED conversions.

The Dr. LED Polar Star 40 replacement bulb for the Aqua Signal 40 lantern comes with an interesting note. According to the Seattle firm, “a white LED should not be used behind colored lenses.” And to that end, its LED replacement bulb has three distinct color-enhanced sectors indigenous to the bulb itself. These are not stand-alone red, green, and white sectors, but instead are color-enhancing segments that ensure that red is red and green is a bright and deep shade of green. This reduced the bulb’s hotspot.

The bulb is designed in the U.S., made in China, and meets the 2-nautical-mile visibility, chromaticity, and other demands of the ABYC/USCG standards. It was the lowest current-consuming light in our test (0.1 amps), and though not the

brightest, it was visible and color recognizable at the 2-mile range.

Bottom line: Middle of the pack price-wise, this $50 current miser gets a Practical Sailor Budget Buy among LED bulbs for conversions.

Lunasea Lights

This well-sealed, wedge shaped, waterproof bulb uses separate LEDs for each color zone. The red sector held six LEDs, and the green four. Light-meter readings indicated that the red sector was a bit brighter than the green sector during tests. At distances beyond 100 yards, the discrepancy was not noticeable visually. Both segments could be seen at the 2-nautical-mile range.

This bulb seemed to only need a clear housing because of the excellent chromaticity match, but without being placed in a tri-lens housing, it had a rather large overlap of red and green. We noted that the red and green (bow-on aspect) covered an arc of more than 20 degrees. But by placing the tri-color lens over the bulb, the overlap was brought into an acceptable 10-degree range, creating a bright, very distinguishable tri-color light.

The Lunasea bulb was the only one in its group with the ability to keep shining even if one of the multiple diodes failed.

Bottom line: One of the brightest LEDs tested, the Lunasea light gets the Practical Sailor Recommended pick among bulbs for its top performance and lifetime warranty, the only test product to offer one.

Distributed by the Australia-based LED Shop, the white BAY-15D bulb we tested was a cluster of 15 diodes in pentagonal array of three vertical diodes per segment. This bright-white light makes a superb anchor light, and the LED Shop also recommends it as a replacement bulb for the Aqua Signal Series 40 tri-color light.

In our testing, it provided a bright red and green sector, but its colors were not as saturated as the color-specific bulbs by Dr. LED and Lunasea.

Testers’ biggest concern was the fact the bulb isn’t properly sealed. This does afford better heat dissipation, a key factor in LED longevity, but we prefer sealed bulbs.

However, the BAY-15D’s $27 price tag, its brightness and

minimal RFI make it a bargain as an anchor light bulb.

Bottom line: Although inexpensive and a good performer, the BAY-15D was held back by its lack of a good seal.

• Nav Light Requirements
• How We Tested
• Practical Sailor Value Guide: Led Tri-Color Masthead Lights
• Shades of Green
• View PDF Format

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Which version of the OGM was tested for this review?

It would be helpful if you added the part numbers of the specific product that you’re testing. For example, when I went to the Lopolight website, I couldn’t find the product you tested. I’m a little disappointed that you didn’t test any trilights with the strobe or flash function. Perhaps I’ll keep my 20-year old Hella.

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Boat Navigation Lights Rules: Illustrated Beginners Guide

When navigating at night, the lights on other boats are your first clue about the moving dangers around you. And your navigation lights are your first line of safety in avoiding collisions in the dark, and they tell others vessels what you are and what you are doing. The rules sound complex, but with a little understanding you can get the basics for any situation.

So what are the basic navigation light rules? For most small vessels, motoring requires red and green (port and starboard) lights, and a white light visible in all directions around the boat. This is almost always a stern light and a masthead light on sailboats. Boats under sail require port and starboard lights, and a white stern light. Sailboats below sixty-five feet may show a tricolor light at the masthead instead of side and stern lights when sailing.

That's it, in a nutshell. There's a little more to it, as the rules change with different sizes and there are some specifics about angles of display for the colors. Identifying other ships at sea requires more study, but the basics are the same. And it's not much trouble to make sure you've always got the proper lights on your vessel.

On this page:

What are the official colregs rules for your sailboat, what about the uscg (united states coast guard) rules, lighting at anchor, identifying the boats around you.

The International Regulations for the Prevention of Collision at Sea , abbreviated "COLREGS" is very specific about the lights required, their shapes and sizes, and the distance they must be visible. For the smaller boat, the following definitions apply.

• Masthead Light - a white light placed centerline on the boat showing an arc of 225 degrees with 112.5 degrees either side of the front of the vessel.
• Sidelights - A red light on the port side and a green light on the starboard. They must show an arc of 112.5 degrees from centerline of the bow.
• Stern light - A white light on the stern of the boat showing an unbroken arc of 135 degrees from centerline of the vessel.
• All-round light - A light showing in an unbroken arc of 360 degrees.

The good news is you need not measure these angles. Any properly installed USCG or COLREGS approved light which will cover the correct arcs. If you have to replace the original light from your boat, make sure it's with an approved replacement.

Lights When Sailing

The specific rules for a sailboat under sail are in COLREGS Rule 25 and vary slightly with the size of the boat. A sailboat powering is considered a power boat and falls under in Rule 23.

• Under 23 feet (7 meters) - side lights and a stern light, possible. If these lights can not be displayed a light must be kept at hand to help avoid a collision. This can be a bright flashlight.
• Over 23 feet - Side lights visible to one nautical mile and stern light visible for two.
• Vessels under 65 feet may combine both sidelights into a single lantern on the bow.
• May show a tricolor light on the masthead instead of sidelights and a stern light. It's one or the other though, do not show these lights at the same time .
• Masthead light must be visible for three nautical miles, all other lights must have a two nautical mile visibility.
• Side lights must be separated.
• May not show a masthead tricolor light.
• Masthead light must have five nautical mile visibility, all other lights must be visible for two nautical miles.
• Optional masthead lights - any vessel under sail may display a red light over a green light at the masthead with sidelights and stern light. The red over green may NOT be displayed with a masthead tricolor light. It's one set or the other.

Lights When Motoring

For all navigational purposes a sailboat under power is considered a power boat. This includes motor sailing - if the engine is on and providing propulsion you are on a power boat, even if the sails are up . This applies to navigation lighting, sound signals in fog and limited visibility, and rights of way.

Sailboats under 50 meters under power need to show:

• A masthead light
• Stern light

A power-driven vessel under 23 feet (7 meters) that does not exceed seven knots of speed may display an all around white light, though sidelights should be used if available.

The USCG has published its own "Rules of the Road" that are based on the COLREGS. In addition, it has rules for the "Inland Waterways" for rivers, inland lakes and the Great Lakes.

The good news is this has no impact on what you have to do with your own boat.

They mostly relate to lighting changes on towed vessels like barges and tugs. For example, a vessel towing or pushing another vessel in the ocean under COLREGS shows two masthead lights, sidelights and a stern light, whereas in Inland Waterways the towing or pushing vessel displays two yellow towing lights instead of a white stern light.

If you sail on lakes, rivers or the Great Lakes where towed commercial traffic is common you should learn the inland lights, but coastal or ocean sailors will never see these.

When you anchor outside a designated mooring field, you should display an all around white light at the masthead or as high in the boat as practical.

If your boat is large and has a very tall mast, you may wish to display another light closer to the waterline. Boats approaching in the dark may not see a light on a mast sixty or seventy feet in the air when they are close to your boat.

We use a simple garden path light on our stern when we anchor, left in a rod holder or flag socket. It comes on automatically at dusk and is a cheap and easy way to be more visible. There is no specific rule stating you can not display more lights than required, or the nature of any lights beyond the required all around light.

The COLREGS also specify that a round black "daymark" should be displayed in the rigging of any vessel at anchor. Very few small vessels observe this, however it is the correct display for a vessel in an anchorage.

If you tie to a mooring in a marked mooring area you are not required to display anchor lights, but there is no harm in doing so.

The other important reason to know your lights is to figure out what's going on around you at night. The water may be ablaze with white, red, green and other lights at night and they are your first key to avoiding collisions and problems.

All combinations of lights for fishing boats, commercial vessels, and so on are outside this post‘s scope. The odds are small you will encounter a submarine, seaplane or hovercraft at night, but there are regulations regarding specific lighting for each of those vessels!

There are a few fundamentals to help you figure out what that is you see on the horizon, which way it is going, and whether it is a danger to you.

Port Wine is Red

The fundamental rule is that red sidelights will ALWAYS be on the port side of a vessel, and green lights will always be on starboard. However, some vessels can use all around red and green lights for other purposes, though those will be higher than sidelights.

The light‘s on a ship is not important, some large tankers and freighters will have their sidelights far aft and put them on the superstructure for better visibility. It is not safe to assume that sidelights you can see are on the bow of large vessels .

When you can see the color, you know which way the bow is pointing. If it's red, it's pointing more or less to the left and will travel in that direction. A green light shows it is heading more or less to your right.

If you can see the red and green lights at the same time, you are looking directly at the bow of the vessel. When you are far away, this isn‘t as alarming as if you are close crossing. Seeing red and green lights together on a vessel is something you never want to see for long.

Be aware of red and green lights used in combination with other red, green and white lights. These may not be running lights and could have other significance.

Tankers, Freighters and Large Ships

Tankers, freighters and large ships will have side lights, a stern light and a masthead light. In addition, on vessels over 50 meters there will be a second masthead light further aft and higher than the forward light. The masthead light positions are a better tipoff to the bow direction and how far from the bow the sidelights might be. Remember - on a large vessel the sidelights may not be at the bow or even close to it.

USCG Inland Rules allow for a second all-around white light on large vessels on the Great Lakes instead of a second masthead light.

Fishing Boats

Fishing boats engaged in fishing will have more complex light displays. When they aren't fishing, they will show lights like any power vessel, but Rule 26 spells out light combinations that vary by the fishing activity being done. In general:

• Boats which are Trawling but not making headway will display a green all-around light over a white all-around light , and a masthead light aft of these lights. Boats making headway while trawling will show these lights, plus sidelights and a stern light.
• A vessel fishing other than trawling will show a red all-around light over a white all-around light . When making way they will also show sidelights and a stern light.
• If a vessel has gear more than 150 meters away from the boat, it will show a second all around light in the direction of the gear. The best rule is to give fishing boats as wide a berth as you can at night. They're easy to pick out if you check the top light configurations but their course may be difficult to predict.

Towing and Pushing

Towed vessels can be the most dangerous to cross, but they have the most lights to tell you what is happening. Refer to COLREGS or the USCG Rules of the Road Rule 24 for all combinations You can pick a tow/push vessel out with the following lights:

• Two or three masthead lights in a vertical line. Three masthead lights shows a tow over 200 meters. Additional masthead lights may show for larger tow vessels.
• A towing light (yellow light with the same characteristics as a stern light) directly above the stern light.
• The will also have side lights and a stern light.
• The towed vessel will show sidelights and a stern light. Lighting may vary under USCG inland rules, where towing lights may replace stern lights. Learn these differences if this is your regular cruising ground. If you think there is a tow ahead of you, always go well behind the aft most set of lights. Never go between a tow and avoid crossing ahead if possible as it may restrict their maneuverability.

Special Situations

There are several rare situations you may encounter. As a general rule, if there are a lot of lights and you don't understand them look for the sidelights on a moving vessel. If you can find them and figure out the direction it is moving, it makes the vessel easier to avoid. Stay well clear of lights you do not understand if you can avoid them without risk.

Most of these signals are used by larger, commercial vessels and you will not need them.

They use these light combinations with other light combinations. For example a towing vessel may also be restricted in maneuverability, and a vessel constrained by draft will show running lights if moving.

• Not Under Command - two all around red lights in a single line
• Restricted in Ability to Maneuver - red, white then red in a single line
• Constrained by draft - three all around red lights

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Mast head light confusion

Here is a question from a Student who posted it on Disqus. I felt it was important enough to post out here for public. Displaying correct lights on boats is important.

Could you please provide more of an explanation for the following: Although ‘steaming light’ is used extensively, this does not have a definition within the IRPCS [International Regulations for Prevention of Collisions at Sea], the correct definition being a masthead light.

If the tri-colour light can replace the stern and red/green pulpit light on a sailboat how can it be unacceptable to use the tri-colour light with mast head light? If you are under power you of course need your steaming light/ mast head light illuminated. So if you don’t have pulpit or stern lights aboard as you are using a tri colour light how can you do this?

Agreed – lights can be confusing at the onset. In this particular topic, sailors tend to get confused because they think  a mast is only on a sailboat. But, a mast head light is also used (and defined for use) on power boats. Take a look at this image shown in the rules. It shows a power driven vessel longer than 50 meters using two mast head lights.

A large Power vessel displaying two mast head lights.

Here is the definition of a mast head light in the rules:

(a) “Masthead light” means a white light placed over the fore and aft centerline of the vessel showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 225 degrees and so fixed as to show the light from right ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on either side of the vessel.

Note also that is does not say the light must be at the top of the mast.

For sailboats, a tricolored light is a light described by rule 25(b) in USCG Nav Rules. It is at or near the top of the mast and is for sailing vessels less than 20 meters in length. It is an optional alternative to having the lights down on the hull or pulpits. It faces a white light to the aft 135 degrees plus red from directly forward around to port 112.5 degrees and a green light directly forward and around to starboard 112.5 degrees. This makes up 360 degrees and meets the requirement for a sailboat sailing. When the sailboat turns on it’s engines it must also in addition to the white, red and green above, display a white light 225 degrees facing forward. You can name this light what ever you like but it must exist. These white “mast head” lights are also defined by the distance they must be seen by – it does not mean they have to be at the top of the mast. On power vessels they are typically at the top of the mast because that is what the mast is for.

Here is a sailing vessel under sail only with a tricolored light

Tri-colored lights on a sailboat

On a sailboat less than 50 meters in length, a mast head light (white under power light) can be just “up the mast” anywhere. It’s not part of the tri color. It is white and faces forward 225 degrees and is to be used when the sailboat is under power. You also might be confusing the term mast head light with the two all around red and green lights at the top of the mast. These are not mast head lights. They can be used in addition to the hull or pulpit mounted red green and white. The rules prevent a top of the mast tricolored light AND the two all around red and green at the top of the mast. This would create confusion and may be your source of confusion. i.e it is unacceptable to use the tricolored and two all around red and green lights. Again the mast head is white 225 deg forward facing to be used under power only.

Here is a vessel with the two all around red and green lights.

The Vessel sailing “on starboard” is utilizing the optional two all around red and green lights.

Here are the rules as stated: Rule 25 – Sailing Vessels Underway and Vessels Under Oars

(a) A sailing vessel underway shall exhibit:

(i) sidelights; (ii) a stern light

(b) In a sailing vessel of less than 20 meters in length, the lights prescribed in Rule 25(a) may be combined in one lantern carried at or near the top of the mast where it can best be seen.  [note this is the tricolored light]

(c) A sailing vessel underway may, in addition to the lights prescribed in Rule 25(a), exhibit at or near the top of the mast, where they can best be seen, two all-round lights in a vertical line, the upper being red and the lower green, but these lights shall not be exhibited in conjunction with the combined lantern permitted by Rule 25(b).

I hope that helps.

I highly recommend that you complete our Navigation Rules Course . It is free for everyone.

International Rules for Prevention of Collision at Sea FREE Sailing Course

We also have a Paper Book that you should order and keep on your boat for reference.

The book is a stand alone excellent explanation of the Rules of the Nautical road and is a good and quick easy read. It has additional really cool features. Through out the book you will see QR Codes. When you scan any QR code with your mobile device, the book element comes alive and shows you animations and videos.

To get a QR Reader – 

For Android

Order the International Rules of Prevention of Collision at Sea Book from Amazon.

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Boat Masthead Lights

Whether you use your craft for water sports, fishing, or leisure cruising, it should be equipped with proper navigation lights to make sure it is safe and legal. Even if taking a boat out on the water after the dark is not your cup of tea, sometimes your afternoon water trip may turn into a night adventure. Besides, if you are a regular boater you will inevitably get caught in a rain or fog at some point. Obviously, inclement weather reduces visibility putting you at risk of having an accident with another vessel. That is why every craft is required to have navigation lights. The size of a boat determines what type of them should be used. To wit, masthead lights are required by all motorized boats that are longer than 39.4 feet.

They are white and installed at the front of a vessel. The arc of illumination is 225 degrees. They are combined with stern lights which are visible across 135 degrees to provide 360 degrees of visibility. When it comes to boats that are greater than 39.4 feet but less than 65.6 feet, they should be visible from at least three nautical miles away. For vessels which are less than 39.4 feet, the visibility range is two nautical miles. Keep in mind that they can be also equipped with an all-round light instead of a set of stern and masthead lights. Whatever size of your vessel, we have the right product for it in our selection. Our offerings are made by reliable brands including Sea Dog , Attwood , and many others.

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Rewiring masthead and forward steaming light

• Thread starter PK123
• Start date Nov 1, 2023
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

OK ...next project on the refurb ...the steaming light half way up the mast is working just fine ...but the masthead anchor light is completely dead and went to an old fuse panel (labelled up) . Ive done a continuity check on the cables in the fuse panel and its an open loop on the masthead. Ive the undone the deck gland at the base of the mast and the wiring insulation has perished so much so that the bare wires are exposed (existing four cables in the insulation). In short im going to replace the wires and lights for the sake of longevity, electrical safety and certainty . Tips and advice would be greatly received - from double halyards on the bosuns chair to wiring strategy . Ive heard of using the mast as a ground with the lights connected locally , using a common ground and having three wires, as well as an alternative of running a single four core cable with positive and negative for each light. Thoughts and experience welcome! Mast is about 30ft  

I found it easier to take the mast down and do the rewiring with the mast on saw horses. I personally do not like using the mast as ground. I ran a mast head tricolor and anchor light, a steaming light and deck flood and a mast head VHF antenna. For the mast head lights I used a common ground and for the steaming and deck flood another common ground. The mast I was working on had two channels for a sliding sleeve where the wires went but only had one sleeve. I found a way to get all wires inside that one sleeve but it was sure tight. One trick I did was I ran a tracer line from each location, mast head and mid- mast where steaming and deck flood were located. When running all the lines back in, I had to pull both tracer lines. It was time consuming but worked out well. If you could get a couple helpers it would help dj  

Absolutely do not use the mast as a ground. You will be inviting all kinds of corrosion problems. Use a minimum of 16ga wire, not so much for the current carrying capacity, but for the strength. The wire has to support its own weight. While individual wires can be run, it is faster and easier to use triplex, which is three wires in a common sheath or duplex which is 2 wires in a common sheath. The sheathing helps to support the weight and adds chafe protection. It is far easier to work on a mast when it is horizontal and 3 feet off the ground than vertical. This will also give you the chance to inspect all the rigging and fittings and replace any that are worn. Pulling a mousing line up the mast with the wire will make future work easier. Use the old wire to pull the string up the mast and then the new wire. Do not use nylon line, it is too stretchy.  

Use continous or double length mouse/ messenger wires. That way if your messenger to wire connection fails halfway through a pull, you still have the messenger in place.  

I used one cable for the top of the mast (2 wire in my case, I do not have a tricolor on top) , and a separate cable to the spreader/steaming light location (3 wire in my case for steaming light plus deck light). I couldn't think of a good way to use only one cable and split out wires at the spreader location, but I wanted the protection of sheathed cable. I wouldn't do individual wires unless you have a conduit, and maybe not even then.  

@JBP-PA ....Im thinking on similar lines - to use two duplex sheathed cables to each light fitting inside the mast but to then terminate them by joining with heat shrink connectors into a single quadruple cable so that theres just one single cable exiting the mast hole at its base. It seems that a single cable into a deck gland is the most likely to remain watertight (rather than a multi cable deck gland fitting - less is more!) . I can run that cable through the interior and split it out at the fuse panel to switch each circuit independently.....thats the plan anyway!  

dlochner said: Use a minimum of 16ga wire, not so much for the current carrying capacity, but for the strength. Click to expand

Attachments

PK123 said: Thanks Dave - Theres quite a voltage drop on the cable run which will be 120ft (30ft up the mast + another 30 or so feet to the fuse panel so 60ft single trip and 120ft there and back for voltage drop calcs) ....so Im anticipating that I'll need 12 g . Click to expand

Definitely go with LED. All you need to do is switch the bulb. They only need a fraction of an amp so 16ga is more than enough.  

JBP-PA said: Definitely go with LED. All you need to do is switch the bulb. Click to expand

if running in conduit, get Wire Lube from Home Depot. This is a water based lubricant made for this task  

Changing from, say, an AquaSignal incandescent bulb to an AquaSignal LED bulb is hardly likely to change the characteristics. I sincerely doubt the Coast Guard will ever take a luminosity meter to a pleasure craft. Yea, I know the argument: If someone crashes into you and you don't have insurance and they are dishonest and they take you to court and they have a better lawyer than you, they could use the fact that you used LED bulb in an incandescent fixture against you. If that's of concern to you, then get official LED fixtures.  

I agree with @JBP-PA regarding the use of LED’s. I chose the Aqua Signal units. I swapped the bulbs out for LED’s. The lights can be seen at the 2nm range. The fact that AS did not certify their lights with the CG was not that they did not work. It was an economic decision. I used 3 wire 14awg up the mast to power the lights on my 40’plus mast. The voltage drop is negligible at the amps used by the LED’s. A single 3wire is more compact. You can wire all the lights at once. The green is ground. The red and black or yellow serve as positive leads. You wire the switches to the power side and you. Label the wires at the terminals. It is a simple task and minimizes the number of wires and the weight in the mast.  

JBP-PA said: Yea, I know the argument: If someone crashes into you and you don't have insurance and they are dishonest and they take you to court and they have a better lawyer than you, they could use the fact that you used LED bulb in an incandescent fixture against you. If that's of concern to you, then get official LED fixtures. Click to expand

Scott T-Bird

• Running lights
• Anchor light / tricolor
• Steaming Light

Smart LED Tri-Color, Anchor Light, and Strobe

LED Masthead/Foredeck Combination Light

rgranger said: Is this really a thing???? I know it is the lore on the net and I've seen this argument many times but... do we have an actual court case where someone (not at fault) was denied compensation because the defendant’s lawyer opened up the steaming light and found an LED bulb in the plaintiff’s fixture? I can imagine a judge siding with the defendant if they could prove the replacement bulb was not bright enough but I find it hard to believe a judge would toss an argument based upon a replacement bulb that was missing a USCG stamp. It defies logic. Any judges on this formum want to chime in? Click to expand

More than three years after the effective date of updated Coast Guard regulations requiring manufacturers of recreational boats who install navigation lights to install lights with third party certification, confusion continues. Although navigation lights were the topic of recent writings in the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) Newsletter, and the subject of briefings at industry gatherings, Coast Guard and NMMA factory visits continue to identify numerous issues of navigation light fixtures and installations that do not comply with Federal regulations. Click to expand

PUTTING TO BED THE INTERNET MYTHS: The USCG, COLREG and EU test agencies do not certify standalone light bulbs (LED or incandescent), and they can only certify that a specific fixture, complete with a specific OEM light source, meets the requirements. This means that anytime you replace a bulb in a certified fixture with any kind of aftermarket non-OEM bulb it is no longer technically a "certified fixture". BUT, please note that there no USCG requirement what-so-ever for the end-user (you) to have certified fixtures on-board. None, nada. This is a requirement for boat-builders and dealers only, and the fact is that these bulbs are the brightest LED replacement bulbs available, and will easily meet visibility and color requirements for yachts up to 65 feet. They are not only brighter, but they are much more likely to be on, don't suffer from lumen depreciation, and are much more visible than the OEM incandescent bulb. They don't have a USCG certification as stand-alone bulbs, or within any specific fixtures. These bulbs have not been tested in your specific fixtures, and we have no control over how you may use this product. Therefore, it must be the user's decision alone whether to use this product to retrofit existing fixtures which will be used for navigation. Click to expand

Not a big fan of masthead anchor lights, but then the biggest boat I have owned is an ODay 25 with a 3ft draft. With a shoal draft sailboat, I'm anchoring where dinghies and powerboats often venture - and these people are not looking up 30+ft for an anchor light. So I hang an anchor light from the forestay a little above head level. A personal preference that works for me. Your mileage may vary. Fred W Stuart Mariner 19 #4133 Sweet P Yeopim Creek, Albemarle Sound, NC  

Ward H said: after it somehow got smashed against a piling the first month I had my boat. Click to expand

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Moscow Boat Tour

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Description

See all the gems of historical and cultural center of the capital in short time and without traffic jams or tiresome walking.

Depending on the itinerary and duration of the Moscow River boat trip, the tour can be 3 or 5 hours.

Highlights of the tour

• St Basil’s Cathedral;
• Stalin skyscraper on Kotelnicheskaya (Tinkers) embankment;
• The Kremlin;
• “House on the Embankment” Stalin skyscraper;
• Monument to Peter I;
• The Central House of Artists;
• Christ the Savior Cathedral;
• Gorky Park;
• Moscow State University;
• Russian Academy of Sciences;
• Luzhniki stadium;
• Novodevichy Monastery;
• Kiev railway station;
• Europe Square;
• Moscow City Hall;
• Government House;
• Expocentre Exhibition Complex;
• and other famous sights.

You will learn about the different epochs of the city from the foundation in 1147 till Soviet times of 20 th  century.

Moscow River

Moskva river has the form of a snake and is the main waterway of Moscow, consisting of a cascade of reservoirs. Within the city, Moskva river is 80 km long, 120 m - 200 m wide and up to 14 m deep. The narrowest part of the river is the Kremlin area in the city center, and the most extensive is around the Luzhniki Stadium in the south. 

Bridges in Moscow

Undoubtedly, bridges and embankments are among the most scenic spots and main attractions of Moscow. Plus, they are so romantic.

• Bolshoy Kamenny Bridge –  Great Stone Bridge –  is the main bridge of Moscow . The first stone bridge was constructed here in the 17th century.
• Patriarshy Bridge  is one of the youngest pedestrian bridges, built in 2004. The bridge connects the iconic Christ the Saviour Cathedral with funky Bersenevskaya embankment, extremely popular place among locals for its trendy art galleries, cafes and panoramic views. Patriarshy Bridge used to be a shooting location for ex-Russian President Dmitry Medvedev's New Year speech to the nation.
• Borodinsky Bridge,  erected in honor of the 100th anniversary of the glorious victory in the Battle of Borodino (which every Russian kid knows about), a fierce legendary battle during the Russo-French war of 1812.
• Bagration Bridge  one of the  pedestrian bridges with most picturesque views of the Moskva River with its numerous upper-level observation platforms. The bridge was erected to celebrate the 850th anniversary of Moscow city in 1997.
• Krymsky Bridge  used to be in Top 5 Europe’s longest bridges some 100 years ago. The bridge got its name after the ancient Krymsky ford which Crimean Tartars used to invade Moscow in the 16 th  century.

Embankments of Moscow

Moscow river boats 37 embankments, the most popular being Kremlevskaya, Sofiyskaya, Pushkinskaya, Vorobyovskaya and Kolomenskaya.

You can get the most spectacular views of the Kremlin from  Kremlevskaya and Sofiyskaya embankments.

• Pushkinkaya embankment  is the most romantic in Moscow. It meanders along Gorky Park and Neskuchnyi garden and is rich for all kinds of entertainment as well as cozy nooks, including Olivkovy beach, the famous Zeleny theater as well as a pier for river cruisers.
• Vorobyevskaya embankment  is part of Sparrow Hills nature reserve. This place opens a beautiful panorama of the river and city from the observation deck and is considered to be the place for taking serious decisions in life.
• Embankment in Kolomenskoye  Museum-Reserve has a special charm due to its peculiar geographical relief. The boat trip around Kolomenskoye would be the most peaceful in your life.
• Taras Shevchenko embankment  is popular among photographers for its modern Moscow City skyscrapers. Highly recommended for your night boat trip.
• Embankments of Moscow are the pride of the capital. A distinctive feature of each of the promenades is its architecture and beautiful views. In addition, almost all the embankments of Moscow have a rich history and a lot of notable buildings.

Different epochs

Taking a walk along the Moskva River by boat, you will witness the architecture of Moscow from different eras and styles. Archaeological studies indicate that already in the XI century there stood a fortified settlement on Borovitsky hill, which is now called the Kremlin. Little fortress could not accommodate all the residents of the rapidly growing city, and the Grand Duke ordered the construction of a new Kremlin, larger than the former.

Boat trip around Kolomenskoe Park

Moscow river boat trip starts from the pier Klenovy (Maple) Boulevard and provides reat views of Nicholas Perervinsky monastery.

Nicholas Perervinsky monastery was founded at the time of the Battle of Kulikov (1380). The monastery, got its name from the surrounding area – “Pererva”, which can be translated like “tear off” and because of the location –  here it abruptly changed its course, turning to Kolomna, standing on the opposite bank.

Nowadays Kolomenskoye is State Art, Historical, Architectural and Natural Landscape Museum-Reserve, which doors are open to everyone who wants to get in touch with the ancient history of Russia.

Take a break from the big city hustle in the shady parks and gardens of the Kolomenskoe Museum-Reserve. Don’t miss a wonderful Church of the Ascension and Tsar Alexey’s Palace in Kolomenskoye!

Monasteries and temples

• Novospassky Monastery
• Founded in the 13th century on the site where now is located the Danilovsky monastery. After a few decades, in 1330, Ivan Kalita moved the monastery onto the Borovitskii hill of the Kremlin. However, in the 15th century, Spassky Monastery again moved, this time to a more spacious place on Krasnoholmskaya waterfront.
• Church of St. Nicholas in Zayaitskom
• Erected in the middle of the XVIII century in baroque style. The building survived after the 1812 fire, but the utensils were destoyed. Parishioners collected donations and restored the temple on their own. In Soviet times, it was closed and re-opened only in 1992.
• Cathedral of Christ the Savior
• The church was originally erected in honor of the victory over Napoleon and was being under construction for long 44 years. Notoriously demolished in 1937 to be a giant swimming pool under open sky. The current building was constructed in 1990s. It is the tallest and one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world.
• The temple was built in 1679-82, during the reign of Tsar Fedor Alekseevich, in late Muscovite Baroque style and can be characterized as bonfire temple. Each gable is a symbol of a heavenly fire.
• Novodevichy Convent
• The most famous concent and monastery in Moscow, presumably founded in 1524. Novodevichy’s status has always been high among other monasteries, it was in this monastery where the women of the royal blood, the wives of Tsars and local rulers of Moscow were kept in prison as nuns.
• St. Andrew’s church  (male acts as Compound Patriarch of Moscow)
• St. Andrew’s church stands right on the slopes of the Sparrow Hills, on the way down to the Moskva River, on the territory of the Nature Reserve “Sparrow Hills”. The monastery is small in size but is very cozy. It’s situated in a quiet courtyard surrounded by temples, fruit trees and flowers.

What you get:

• + A friend in Moscow.
• + Private & customized Moscow river cruise.
• + An exciting pastime, not just boring history lessons.
• + An authentic experience of local life.
• + Flexibility: changes can be made at any time to suit individual preferences.
• + Amazing deals for breakfast, lunch, and dinner in the very best cafes & restaurants. Discounts on weekdays (Mon-Fri).
• + A photo session amongst spectacular Moscow scenery that can be treasured for a lifetime.
• + Good value for souvenirs, taxis, and hotels.
• + Expert advice on what to do, where to go, and how to make the most of your time in Moscow.

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