sailboat tiller clutch

You are using an outdated browser. Please upgrade your browser to improve your experience.

Force 4 TillerClutch

• Get it on Friday, 22nd March if ordered within the next --:--:-- and select Next Day Delivery *UK Mainland Only
• This is a special order product and may experience shipping delays. Please call our Mail Order team to confirm delivery lead time.

Ask a question

• Description
• Availability
• Delivery & Returns
• Questions & Answers

Voted "Best on Test" by Practical Boat Owner - August 2015

Sailing alone or short-handed? Use the patented TillerClutch to "lash the helm" with the simple click of a lever. It's conveniently mounted under the tiller with the lever right in your steering hand. Click it on or off for instant steering adjustments.

The TillerClutch is a specialised rope clutch, not a simple friction brake. There are no knobs to turn, friction to fight, plastic to break, ropes to tie, or bungee cords to adjust.

The TillerClutch gives you a firm hand on the tiller, whenever you need it.

• Special grooved base fits round or square tiller handles
• Simple mounting - requires only two screws centred along tiller shaft
• Compact, solid metal construction withstands the abuse of hard sailing
• Major components made of solid aluminium alloy, hard-coat anodised and sealed
• Internal parts made of passivated stainless steel
• Thoroughly rounded edges for comfort and safety
• Does not use or interfere with the mounting points of a tiller pilot and remains in place when a tiller pilot is used
• Unique toggling rope clutch system balanced to maximise holding power with minimal user effort. No need for adjustment screw-knob
• Rope clutch mechanism calibrated to be overpowered in emergencies and to relieve excessive rudder stress in heavy conditions
• Size: Width 28mm, Depth 25mm, Body Length 79mm, Lever Length 57mm
• Suitable for trailer sailors, day sailors and small cruisers up to approx 27ft / 8.25m

There is also a TillerClutchX model with more holding power for heavier keel boats with stout steering hardware, that exceed tiller loads of up to 35lb (16kg) or more (see Code: 861000).

Standard TillerClutch Kit Includes:

• TillerClutch
• 3.65m control line
• Mounting screws
• Instructions & limited lifetime warranty

This item is currently not in stock but is available to preorder, with a lead time of up to 14 days.

Stock can move quickly, so this is just a suggestion of current levels, please phone the shop to confirm.

The ship to store service is based on Head Office sending stock to a branch.

If you wish to call & collect stock, please do so over the phone using the number provided.

- Good Availability

- Low Availability

- One item left

Royal Mail Service Update:  Please be aware when choosing Royal Mail as your preferred delivery method, your delivery time may be impacted by ongoing strikes and may take up to 20 working days. If your order is time critical we suggest choosing a courier or Next Day Service

Our Mail Order team ship chandlery, yacht parts and sailing clothing around the world. We use the best value couriers available, and we will endeavour to get your products to you as quickly and as cost effectively as possible.

International Orders : Due to delays we have had to suspend our international delivery options. 

UK Standard Delivery

• UK Mainland 0 - 2Kg (small jiffy) £3.95 Royal Mail Service. Despatch within 3- 5 working days, delivery in 7-10 working days for orders under £50.00
• UK Mainland up to 25Kg £5.95 Courier service with signature. Despatch within 3- 5 working days, delivery in 7-10 working days
• UK Mainland 25Kg+ Price on request
• UK Mainland Next Day 0 - 25Kg £9.95 Courier service with signature, orders must be placed before midday
• Northern Ireland, Highlands & Islands 0 - 2Kg (small jiffy) £3.95 Royal Mail Service. Despatch within 3- 5 working days, delivery in 5-7 working days for orders under £50.00
• Northern Ireland, Highlands & Islands 1 - 25Kg £10.95 Courier service with signature. Despatch within 3- 5 working days, delivery in 7-10 working days
• Northern Ireland, Highlands & Islands 25Kg+ Price on request
• Channel Islands 0 - 2Kg (small jiffy) £5.95 Royal Mail Service Despatch within 3- 5 working days, delivery in 5-7 working days for orders under £50.00
• Channel Islands 1 - 25Kg £13.50 Courier service with signature. Despatch within 3- 5 working days, delivery in 5-7 working days
• Channel Islands 25Kg+ Price on request

UK Exceptional Delivery

• UK Mainland; Antifoul & paints £5.95
• UK Mainland; Inflatable dinghy £10.00
• UK Mainland; Liferafts £17.50
• UK Mainland; Flares £49.95
• Northern Ireland, Highlands & Islands; Antifoul & paints £9.95
• Northern Ireland, Highlands & Islands; Inflatable dinghy price on request
• Northern Ireland, Highlands & Islands; Liferafts price on request
• Northern Ireland, Highlands & Islands; Flares not available to ship at this time
• Channel Islands; Antifoul & paints £13.50
• Channel Islands; Inflatable dinghy price on request Channel Islands; Flares not available to ship at this time

For further delivery information click here.

Standard Returns

If you are not entirely happy with your purchase, we will exchange or refund your goods in full, provided that the items are returned within 14 days of receipt.*

Please check the condition of goods on arrival - we are unable to accept goods damaged during shipping after 14 days.

Returned goods must be packaged securely, with all original packaging undamaged and in a saleable condition i.e. shoe boxes must be in the same condition as when received.

Goods must be unused and security seals intact.*

If you would like to return goods because they were ordered incorrectly or if clothing does not fit, return postage will be at your expense. If you would like us to replace the goods with another size or colour, we will charge carriage on the replacement.

Please be aware that some navigational and safety products may be dated, and as such a full refund may in some cases not be possible. If you are purchasing dated navigational charts we suggest you contact us for more information.

Faulty Goods

If you receive your goods and believe them to be faulty, please contact us straight away with a brief description of the problem. If we require you to return the product for a replacement, we will send you a pre-paid Royal Mail label for delivery back to us. Unfortuantely we cannot send the courier back to collect the items.

Returning goods to Force 4 is easy!

• Please contact us by ringing 0345 1300 710 or email on [email protected] . This way we'll be able to determine whether you would like to return the product for a refund or whether you'd like to exchange the product. We are unable to process the return of faulty goods that we're not expecting.
• We'll then give you a returns number. This returns number will need to be clearly marked on the outside of your parcel so it can be identified on arrival. Please note, failure to mark a returns reference number on the outside of your parcel may result in a delay in processing your return.
• Don't forget your proof of postage, just in case!
• Once we receive the item we'll be able to proceed with a refund or an exchange.

*this excludes faulty goods with manufacturers defects. If goods are found to be faulty during use, after the returns period, please just give us a ring on 0345 1300 710 and we'll be happy to help.

What is the difference between the TillerClutch and the TillerClutch (Keelboat Model) ? David McDonald

The difference is that the Keelboat version is slightly bigger and is intended just for Keelboats. 

See more reviews

- Tiller Clutch X

Having used my Tiller Clutch X many times now on my Long Keel Yarmouth 22, and can say it's like having an extra crew man onboard, and I don't normally bother rigging my autohelm anymore. Very pleased with the product and very easy to fit - Two screws! You can see it in use in this 14min video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LvhEQH6qSqQ Tim on Wednesday, 30th August 2017 

Stock Alert

Please alert me via email when this product is back in stock.

Please read our privacy policy for more information about how we protect your personal data.

Men's Size Guide

Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

Tiller locks tested

• Ben Meakins
• September 25, 2015

Being able to leave the helm for short periods of time is made much easier with something to hold the tiller for you. We compared three tiller locks for effectiveness, ease of set-up and user-friendliness

Short- and single-handed sailing is made much easier with some way of securing the helm so you can do other things. Autopilots are perhaps the best solution, but they are expensive and can draw too much power for some small boats. Wheel-steered boats generally have a friction lock on the wheel boss to secure the wheel, but tiller-steered boats generally have had to look to lashing the tiller to make an escape from the helm.

That’s where tiller-locking devices come in handy. They vary in design, price and function, but at their most basic level they will hold the tiller in one place, allowing you to quickly nip off and tie on a fender, adjust a halyard or, if you’ve set the boat up properly, make a cup of tea.

How we tested them We mounted all three devices on the spare tiller for an Impala 28 and headed out into a brisk 15- to 20-knot south-westerly breeze in the Solent. We engaged each tiller- locking device in turn, looking at how easy it was to set up, engage and disengage each one, and what each one felt like to use. We set the boat up so that the sails were balanced nicely before allowing each one to steer for a while.

Davis Tiller Tamer

The Davis Tiller Tamer is screwed to the top of the tiller and comprises an injection-moulded base with a friction screw mounted on a spring, which adjusts the friction in the line. A line is installed, running from points at 45° to the tiller: it runs over a sheave and through two fairleads on the Tiller Tamer. The manual recommends that the bitter ends of the line are secured in two cam or clam cleats so that it can be easily released in an emergency.  Unlike the other products tested, you can adjust the resistance, which means you can potentially leave the tiller for a few minutes and easily fine-tune it if necessary.

A disadvantage of the design and being able to adjust the tension is that it can take a short while to unscrew the knurled knob and regain control of the tiller – not more than 10 seconds, but that could be enough to make a difference in an emergency. This accounts for the stipulation that quick-release cleats are used for the bitter ends. The design was also prone to catching lines and clothes, but the Tiller Tamer can also be mounted on the underside of the tiller, which would help solve this problem.

Midshipman II Tiller Lock

Seasure make the Tiller Lock, which comprises an aluminium body with a sheave and a clamping lever. A line is supplied with a rubber snubber and a small cleat, which allows the line to stay tight at all times. The instructions say that you should mount the Tiller Lock on the underside of the tiller. This we did, and found that it was effective to use, although unless the line was as tight as possible, it was liable to fall out of the sheave when the locking lever was disengaged. This didn’t happen when mounted on top of the tiller. In use, the lever was simple and easy to operate, and held the tiller firmly.

TillerClutch

We found this product online. Made in the USA by WaveFront Marine and now available from Force 4 ., it’s a similar idea to the Tiller Lock, but in a much smaller package. Made from anodised aluminium with stainless fastenings, it’s designed to be screwed to the handle end of the tiller so that the clutch lever can be operated with one hand while steering normally. A 5mm line is supplied, and, like the Tiller Tamer, is designed to be cleated at each end for quick release.

In use, we found the TillerClutch to be the easiest and quickest to flick on and off thanks to its mounting location and the design of the lever. It gripped the line well and the captive line was in no danger of falling out.

Length of shock cord

£1.75 per metre

We thought it would be worth trying a DIY alternative, so we bought a length of 8mm shock cord which we looped around the boat’s mooring cleats in a double loop. When required this could be looped twice around the tiller, holding it fast. With effort, you could still adjust the tiller a little, but it held it without difficulty. The slight ‘give’ in the shock cord actually helped the boat stay on course, especially in a quartering sea.

£28.60 ($48.95) +P&P

PBO Verdict

So, is it worth buying one of these kits? They’re no substitute for an autopilot, but on a well set up boat they will let you leave the helm for a short while, whether at sea or perhaps motoring slowly up a river so you can sort out the fenders. Our favourite of the bunch was the TillerClutch, the simple yet compact design of which allowed you to flick the lock on and off as required in no time at all. The Midshipman II Tiller Lock was a similar concept and held the line effectively, but the line was liable to fall out of the sheave when disengaged if it wasn’t tight enough.

The Davis Tiller Tamer held the line captive and you could adjust the friction to suit your needs, but it was slow to release and engage and had the potential for snags. Finally, the shock cord was cheap and simple – it didn’t have the instant engagement of the TillerClutch and Midshipman II Tiller Lock and didn’t hold the line as securely, but it was remarkably effective nonetheless.

• Sailboat Gear

TillerClutch

Write a review.

• Create New Wish List

Description

Conveniently mounted below the tiller - it's out of the way but easy to access. No knobs to turn, no friction to fight, nothing to strip out or snap off. The TillerClutch is made from anodized aluminum and stainless steel. Simple on/off lever is easy to operate even in gloves. Easy to mount.

Complete kit includes (TillerClutch, 12-foot control line, and mounting screws.)

The TillerClutch is made in the U.S.A. by our friends at WaveFront Marine in North Carolina.

Just added to your cart

WAVEFRONT TILLER CLUTCH STANDARD

Adding product to your cart

• Share Share on Facebook
• Tweet Tweet on Twitter
• Pin it Pin on Pinterest
• Choosing a selection results in a full page refresh.
• Press the space key then arrow keys to make a selection.

• Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
• What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media
• Media New media New comments
• Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com
• Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale
• Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday
• Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe

Tiller tamer recommendations

• Thread starter Strowley
• Start date Feb 2, 2015
• Catalina Owner Forums
• Catalina Capri 22
• Capri 22 Repair & Maintenance

I bought a used late 1990s capri 22 standard height wing keel out of Oakland last July and drove it up to Olympia WA. I sailed it August and September and am eagerly awaiting time to put back in the water. It is my first time with a family sized sailboat of this size (previously had smaller boats)and I absolutely love it. My question is if anyone has a recommendation for a specific tiller tamer system that is simple to use on this boat. Thanks in advance for feedback. Scott  

Strowley said: I bought a used late 1990s capri 22 standard height wing keel out of Oakland last July and drove it up to Olympia WA. I sailed it August and September and am eagerly awaiting time to put back in the water. It is my first time with a family sized sailboat of this size (previously had smaller boats)and I absolutely love it. My question is if anyone has a recommendation for a specific tiller tamer system that is simple to use on this boat. Thanks in advance for feedback. Scott Click to expand

If you wind up single handing a lot... on your long-term list of "toys" you might want, consider an inexpensive tiller pilot, the TP10 (simrad) or slightly better the ST1000+ (Raymarine)... I've used the ST1000+ and from a solo sailors perspective it's probably one of the coolest things you can buy yourself for the boat. I find it MOST useful when motoring into the wind (holding course) to raise sails, and when motoring back (buttoning up the boat).. I know this isn't what you asked, and a simple tiller tamer is also a step on the road to a tiller pilot, but with such a small boat, a tiller tamer, buys you about 30 seconds or so... where a tiller pilot can buy you nearly as much time as you have water left on a tack. It's not all peaches and cream with a tiller pilot mind you, they don't work well above 25 degrees of heel, can go whacky if you experience a magnetic field, and generally don't do well with a 30% wind speed adjustment (gusts/holes)... however, they DO recover... where a tamer cannot. At $400 it might be too large a percentage of your boat's price to swallow, but keep in mind it'll easily add that to the value of your boat at sale, or better, can be used on a move up boat... Again, not trying to spend your money, just trying to offer you a "cadillac" solution.  

Schnool, would you mind commenting on the installation procedure for a tiller pilot? Wondering how difficult an install it is. I am interested in getting a tiller pilot, but I'd need to budget considerably more if this is the kind of kit I would need a pro to install. I've done little projects such a upgrading the cabin lights to LEDs, installing a new boom kicker bracket, a tiller lock (obv), etc. Installing a tiller pilot would be a step up and I am trying to gauge just how high. Thanks, Charlie  

tom h Capri 22

Hi Scott, This is Tom, glad your enjoying your Capri,I miss it. I was ready to get a Tiller pilot for it if i was going to keep it,would never have a boat with out one however, the tiller clutch that was recommended looks like a nice design,simple and effective. I'm sailing a beautiful Newport 28 mk ll now and loving it I still look in on you guys here at the CP22 board every now and then to keep up on the latest.  

Thanks all for the feedback- I think I'll look closely at the wavefront tiller clutch for a starter. Tom- love the boat and am glad you've found another to keep you happy. If I can't find a good tiller tamer I've got a good back up  

Attachments

• image.jpg 1,013.7 KB Views: 1,414

Schnool, thanks for the detailed write-up! Much appreciated. I'm am going to put this top on my project list. Charlie  

I'm sure every one on this board would agree.......that's one lucky girl Great photo  

bigpapaporsche

I am also considering both the Raymarine T1000 and a Tiller Tamer, maybe the Forespar's Tiller Box. However, I have my reservations about the Tiller Box. I've read several comments about the Tiller Box, some not so good. Secondly, you have to cut a fairly big hole in the coaming to countersink the Box into. I think the cost is around $45.00. Also, as with most Tiller Tamers I've seen, LINES are used on either side of the Tiller to keep it in place. The problem is these lines restricts your movement around the cockpit! On the other hand,the Tiller Box or other TP only block one side of the Tiller. When you think about it, for another $400.00 you can have the T1000, which really does the job. I think I just talked myself into the T1000.  

I hate to be brand biased but the Raymarine St1000+ can be integrated with a seatalk network, whereas the Simrad TP10 cannot... On the next size up (overkill and $100 more).... the ST2000+ and the TP22 can both easily be networked. So on the tiller pilot small size, I personally think Raymarine has the advantage. I'll add that a tiller pilot is usually pretty easy to flip off for quick movements of the tiller. I actually have had some "emergency" disconnects of the raymarine in my Capri 25... The place I located it allowed me to "flip" the tip of the TP and it would auto-rotate out of the way. um, at 35 degrees of heel, that "auto rotate" can be nearly abuse to the unit, I know because I broke the internal fluxgate compass from some abuse... By the way a $95 part is required (the whole compass) when only the plastic frame it is mounted in needs replaced.. Hard to find the part, and they all come from the UK (Ebay is your friend). But yeah the Capri 22, and Capri 25, and even the S2 7.9 have a tiller that crowds the mainsheet traveler, so lifting it up to get out of the way, one would need to be careful to "arrange" a tiller tamer such that you can lift the tiller up to switch sides easily. The forespar tiller lockbox would seem to be a pretty extreme option honestly. Just my $0.02... but I think I'd prefer that option over the tiller tamer for just the above reason.  

The Tiller Clutch is one of the best investments i've made for the boat. I tried the Davis Tiller Tamer once, and though it was too cumbersome and slow. So I looked into other options as well and was leaning towards the tiller box. I experimented with a few ideas that accomplished the same thing as the tiller box without the holes, but found it was even more cumbersome and slower than the tamer. Especially for small course corrections. After two seasons with the clutch, I end up leaving it engaged more often than not. It's extremely quick to adjust, and when disengaged, the slight nothing compared to the tamer. I have the lines run to the same clamcleats as I did with the Tiller Tamer, and if I want zero drag on the tiller, i just unhook the one next to me. When I don't need it, I secure the lines to a bungee ball I keep on the tiller (see pics below). The other downside of the Tiller Tamer is that if you mount it underneath the tiller, be prepared to tear your knee open on the sharp plastic edges. The clutch is aluminum with (safe) smooth rounded corners which also make it easier taking the tiller cover on and off. Ensign Andrew on watch  

• 20130805_185112.jpg 126.7 KB Views: 780
• 20130805_190717.jpg 87.1 KB Views: 767
• 0808141639e.jpg 51.5 KB Views: 773

I have used a Tiller Tamer ($40), Tiller Clutch ($80), and TP100 ($400) Tiller Pilot (an earlier version of the TP10). I liked the Tiller Tamer since I could vary the tension/friction on the line. I liked having enough friction to keep the tiller from flopping around, yet still be easily nudged for fine directional adjustments. Later at Matt's suggestion I tried the Tiller Clutch. The simple ON/OFF tension is also nice to use. It locks the tiller in place with a simple flick of a finger. It does let the tiller move if you push somewhat forcefully. Last year I had an older TP100 that was in working order. It needed a tiller arm bracket located under the tiller (stays out of the way for my tiller extender in its resting position). The other end went on a 3" Raymarine Pedestal socket assembly (yup, these parts can go both ways) with the flange mounted on the starboard locker hatch. The power comes through a 2-pin water tight connector mounted on the cockpit wall. Last year I ended up sailing alone several times. The Tiller Pilot made single handling so easy. It would keep a course freeing me to do other things that I could not do with the Tiller Clutch or the Tiller Tamer. This Tiller Pilot was old and used and had at least one repair. Near the end of the season it stopped working. I was already very spoiled when I had to go back to using the Tiller Clutch with no notice! The Tiller pilot worked very well for my needs justifying purchasing a new TP10 this Spring to replace the old TP100. Each one works well for its design. At one point I had all three mounted on tiller (I like to experiment). Cost may make you chose one over another. Right now I have the Tiller Clutch for most "hands on" sailing and the Tiller Pilot for extending my single-handed sailing.  

First my 2 cents about tiler tamer type products. The tiller clutch is a nice idea but you are required to keep a grasp on the tiller clutch when steering manually. Others have to be snapped into place or cleated off. I have tried a few but always come back to the simple length of rope, or redneck tiller tamer as I have seen it called. Take a simple length of rope and secure it to either stern cleat, wrap it three times around the tiller ( from bow to stern) and then secure the loose end to the opposite stern cleat with a bit of slack. The idea is to slide the three wraps toward the bow and the tiller will be held firmly in place by the taught line. Once you have completed whatever task that required both hands simply slide the three wraps to the rudder end of the tiller and you once again have full tiller control. It is simple and works very well if I have to go forward to untangle a line or sheet or below for another frosty beverage. Although a tiller tamer will give you a short respite from the tiller it will never maintain any sort of coarse over any length of time. A question about mounting a Raymarine auto pilot on the Capri 22. I have an old unit that was used on our 1965 built Columbia. It was pin mounted to seat and level to the tiller. On the Capri the tiller is considerably higher than the seat and the deck of the pit is both to high and way to far back. Has anyone used either a pedestal mount or arm extensions? I built a pedestal mount to use on the seat but it looked awkward so I never installed it. Frozen in Buffalo, Curt  

Curt said: A question about mounting a Raymarine auto pilot on the Capri 22. I have an old unit that was used on our 1965 built Columbia. It was pin mounted to seat and level to the tiller. On the Capri the tiller is considerably higher than the seat and the deck of the pit is both to high and way to far back. Has anyone used either a pedestal mount or arm extensions? I built a pedestal mount to use on the seat but it looked awkward so I never installed it. Frozen in Buffalo, Curt Click to expand

John, Thanks for the follow up. I have 5" of snow in my yard so I understand your reluctance to run right out and take a pic. No worries, it will be at least 9 months (or so it seems) until boat uncovering season. I will look forward to a picture or two in the spring. How did you get a way with a 3" pedestal? The tiller is at least 8" higher than the seat hatch cover. Did you install a bracket on the underside of the tiller to lower the connection point? I did build a similar pedestal last year and it was around 8" tall to make for a level connection. I never installed it because such a long lever under load would have surely damaged the seat where the flange would have been connected. What am I missing/ Cheers, Curt  

Curt, I purchased a Raymarine 3.5" pedestal socket from Defender. The pin hole was probably metric 6 mm and felt tight inserting my older TP100 into it. I reamed it out using a 1/4" drill bit. It works wonderfully now. D026 - Pedestal Socket 89mm (3.5") Pedestal Assemblies are used to raise the fixed end of the tillerpilot. http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... id=1044273 The Tiller Pilot TP100 came to me with the tiller lowering bracket. Using that bracket with the 3-1/2" pedestal left the Tiller Pilot level. The mounting was not in the way of my tiller clutch (mounted on bottom) or tiller extender (mounted on top, storing clip also on top). Simrad Tiller Arm Bracket 2.36" (60mm) High Bracket Used To Lower Or Raise The Tiller End Mounting Point http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?pa ... id=1313056 Being on the outskirts of Boston, we have escaped the worst of the storms. We've been getting only 12" to 16" each storm. Running out of places to put the snow. The end of January I finally covered the boats. The last real storm we had was at Thanksgiving. My son spent an afternoon helping me get each of the five boats (at various levels of restoration) covered before the first of the February storms. Tarped them with masts set high to shed the snow. It's been working well!  

Thanks for the clarification. 3.5" pedestal and a tiller mount bracket in combination. I was hoping to not use a lower bracket on the tiller so as to not clutter it up. I may just install the flange pedestal I made and see how it works. If the forces are to much and start to deteriorate the hatch mount configuration I can always do as you have. Buffalo has had a fair bit of snow this season and the snow blower can't throw it high enough at he end of the driveway. We keep Chigaletta on the hard at our marina on the waterfront. I had a tarp cut to fit two seasons ago and have the mast u a bit, fortunately the winds on the waterfront keep the snow loads fairly light. Thanks for your input. As always this board is full of it... Stay warm, Curt  

The bracket mounted below the tiller got it out of the way for me. It kept the force on the pedestal minimal. The Tiller Pilot can also have an extension put on the tiller end. That way you can have the other end pinned on the side deck. So nice to have choices!  

I got my 22 a couple of years ago and love it for the sensitivity and responsiveness it offers. I know we each have our preference, and nothing wrong with that, but I am surprised that there is so much interest in taming the tiller other than by hand. When I am alone on the boat I might use a tiller tamer when I need to reef but otherwise I manually operate the tiller to enable me to overtake those bigger boats (with autopilots?). I'm not being critical but I find it to be interesting that so many would want an autopilot on such a design of boat.  

• This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…

• Forum Listing
• Marketplace
• Advanced Search
• About The Boat
• Gear & Maintenance
• SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

tillerlock vs tiller clutch

• Add to quote

Hi there I'm trying to decide between these two tiller conrolling devices I've checked out many of the others and researched and or tried some of the simpler options (bungies , cajun tamer etc) I realize they're not autopilots but a convenience for getting the odd thing done as well as useful for tacking, heaving to etc. I live in Vancouver Canada (this is somewhat relevant) Both these units seem good and are constructed out of metals The Clutch (a newer product made in the USA by Wavefront Marine out of aluminium and stainless)looks easier to use (one hand operation right by where your hand would sit) but it costs almost twice as much 69.99 + 12 S&H + 8-10 duty + roughly $90-$92 (pricey) WaveFront Marine - The TillerClutch The Lock (been around for a while, made in Canada out of stainless and navy brass) looks easy to use(but perhaps not as easy as it's farther from you hand and might require 2 hands briefly), is very striking in appearance(haha) and is a fair bit cheaper at 44.95 + 10.95 S+H (no duty) roughly $56 canSail Marine Supplies or Sailboat Tillerlock, tiller lock your rudder. | eBay I must admit being Canadian I like how the Cansail tillerlock is made here(patriotism and no duty!)and made out of brass and stainless but my tiller is 7/8" wide and quite rounded top and bottom so I'm not sure how it'll mount as it looks flat on the base, I guess a contoured shim could be made to rectify that problem. I'm waiting on question to the manufacturer The Wavefront tillerclutch looks like it'd mount without mods and is handier but it comes with the larger price tag..(and it's aesthetic isn't as nice...I know insignificant when you're using it but both look functional)I do have a correspondant who has the same boat who uses one and he highly reccomends it) My question is has anyone tried either of these units and can they reccomend them?  

I have no experience with either but there is a third option here Salty John: Tiller-Hand and other fine boat and yacht chandlery products. I have purchased other items from them and received my order within 5 days (yes, from the UK) and no duty was applied. Also if the clutch is made in the US there is no duty on it.  

Hmmm I checked it out Thanks for the input It looks like the Davis tiller tamer ,roughly the same principle and made of plastic, except it looks to cost around $50 (25 UK pounds!)before S&H or as they would say P&P . At that price I'd happily buy the stainless and brass Canadian version There's no duty from the states on stuff you can't buy here but there definitely is often provincial sales tax applied coming through the border. As there's currently no PST I though it might be HST I could be wrong though..I very often am !!Thanks for your reply  

I have used the Davis Tiller Tamer but did not like it. It required two hands: one to hold the tiller and one to turn the knob. The process took too long when I was in a hurry. I used a lever type lock for many years and was pretty satisfied with it. It is no longer available but was very similar to the tiller lock you show except that it mounted on the bottom of the tiller. The base was a little wider than the tiller so I had to mount it with the screws angled in. I got a new tiller this year and it is even narrower than the old one. No way could I mount the old tiller lock to it without fabricating some kind of mounting plate so I decided to try the new Tiller Clutch. Am I glad I did!! It works like a dream! I can flick it on or off with just my little finger on the hand holding the tiller. I can lock the tiller, use both hands to trim a sheet, and grab the tiller and unlock it in fractions of a second! Bottom line: I highly recommend the Tiller Clutch. It is functionally superior to the other types IMHO.  

At today's rates 25 British Pounds equals $40.89 Cdn. When I purchased from them last year there was no Hst or Canadian tax of any kind. It just arrived in the mail. I have never used any tiller tamer type product so cannot comment on which is best.  

see I knew I'd be wrong about something! That's good to know it's a little cheaper and I appreciated the additional input I know when I've ordered British Seagull bits from the UK there's been no duty or tax but sometimes with things from the states I would be charged PST Not sure how it works now with the combined HST. As far as mounting goes I know the cansail tillerlock can be mounted top or bottom and is about 3/4" wide  

Rather than spend $100 on a tiller lock, I'd seriously look at a tiller pilot. Back in the day, we had a Tillermaster we used for years. My memory is a bit faulty, but I almost think that it was developed and built initially here in the Tacoma area in the early '70s, but I can't be sure. The Tillermaster was crude by today's standards, but it did what it said it would. It would hold a consistent compass course. Current tiller pilots are a lot better, both in their mechanics, electronics, and water resistance. The advantage with these is that it will hold a heading, and not simply a tiller position. Back when we would need to go to the bow to put on or change a hanked on jib, it was nice to be able to do it knowing the boat would maintain a consistent course. I'd look at something like the Simrad TP10. It will cost over $300 more than your tiller lock, but I think will end up being a lot more useful. They are easy to simply pop on the tiller and set. (one thing I liked about the old Tillermaster was the rotary knob for adjusting course). Dave  

THanks I probably should've mentioned I have a Danica 16 "Nutmeg"which is a 15 foot long double ended full keel, ballasted boat that sleeps two, I paid $1200 for it and it's trailer. Whilst they have been sailed to Hawaii and up to Desolation sound from Vancouver and are considered a very weatherly sea boat for their size, I don't plan to go so far a field , mostly a bit of coastal cruising/island hopping/gunkholing I since sunk a 4-5 hundred into it and the trailer (I do all my own work)but spending another 4-5 hundred isn't at all possible right now or in the near future. If I did I would first buy a handheld VHF and then a GPS For now I'm mostly interested in a unit that frees up my hands for a bit to do the odd necessary task or go up front to change a sail etc And I'm hoping to solicit some opinion about the two tiller lock units mentioned above Thanks though, if I get a larger boat. more money,and want to spend longer stretches at sea I'll definitely take your advice and get an auto pilot  

Windkiller said: I since sunk a 4-5 hundred into it and the trailer (I do all my own work)but spending another 4-5 hundred isn't at all possible right now or in the near future. Click to expand...

For years I have used a simple line and two clam cleats. You can see a pic in this thread. http://www.sailnet.com/forums/c-c/79350-does-anyone-know-what.html#post781751 Cost all of 15$. Not a great set up but allows me to pop down below for something or go forward to deal with the sail etc. I have to admit the tiller clutch looks great and my be my next upgrade. Dan S/V Marian Claire  

On my previous boat (18.5 Crown(little Cal20)I used a length of shock cord with a turn or two around the tiller, worked well and would hold a course in mild conditions(it had some give) But it would wear the finish off the tiller and then wear indentations into the wood, I had duck tape around the tiller to help(ick), I guess I could've used some thin brass plate or aluminium wrapped around. i found it annoying as I'd just done the brightwork, Same thing with the new boat. works okay but when you get it tight enough it wears the tiller down, I've also looked at the tensioning block sort of unit that mounts underneath..I think something simple would be good though with minimal holes in the tiller, so I'm trying to decide between these two units both of which look quite simple and have a minimum of lines  

Windkiller said: On my previous boat (18.5 Crown(little Cal20)I used a length of shock cord with a turn or two around the tiller, worked well and would hold a course in mild conditions(it had some give) But it would wear the finish off the tiller and then wear indentations into the wood, I had duck tape around the tiller to help(ick), I guess I could've used some thin brass plate or aluminium wrapped around. Click to expand...

Used tiller lock for a long period of time. It is very easy to use and locks the tiller without any problems.  

Oh heck now I have to learn to tie a turk's head I can make a thump mat.  

I've used the Tillerlock clutch on my Catalina 25 for three seasons now, and I LOVE it. Very intuitive; even nonsailors first-timing on the boat don't question "How's this work?". Rugged design; no maintenance problems. Easy to use as a brake, not just clamping in one position but taking some rudder pressure off hand-sailing. To neaten the installation, I routed out a shallow, flat-bottomed indentation in the top of my rounded tiller. Occasionally use our Raymarine Tillerpilot autopilot for longer passages, but seldom now bother to get it out and mount it, because the clutch is always there. And of course it's super easy to lock the tiller amidships when leaving the boat on its mooring.  

I had a tiller lock style device on last boat and liked it. Current boat I installed the Davis Tiller tamer and it also works well. Of the two I prefer the Lock device over the tiller tamer. Either will do  

I have the Davis Tiller Tamer on my Capri 18 and it works well for lake sailing; I haven't had a chance to use it on salt water yet. There were plenty of crew on my last (first with this boat) trip last year who were eager to take the helm. I now have a Forespar telescoping tiller extension and I believe they have a bulkhead mounted fitting that allows it to work as a tiller lock. Has anyone used one of those? I hesitate to get one because it looks like I'd need to cut a 2"x3" hole in my cockpit coaming to mount the fitting. That's a much bigger commitment that just drilling holes for 2 #8 screws. Ken Capri 18 #299 Moment of Zen  

You could surface mount it in a block of teak or starboard but it would certainly be neater flush mounted.  

Attachments

Hey jjablonowski Thanks for your reply To Clarify, you said you used a "tillerlock clutch" There's a Tillerlock annnd a Tiller Clutch I'm trying to decide between, from your description I'm assuming you mean the brass and stainless Tillerlock? Is that right? Thanks  

I bought and installed a tiller clutch about 6 months ago and I love it. To set it is instantaneous and simple to disengage is just as easy. It is literally a finger tip away. Prior to that I was using bungee cords. No comparison.  

I have to agree with the others. On a boat that size and with a limited budget, a simple line and cleat rig is the way to go.  

I am about as much of a ghetto fabulous sailor as they get...my current tiller is actually an axe handle... But I read about something that sounded good, I've never seen it in person, but: Seems if you go get a timing belt or chain off an old car, it looks like a tiny ladder, string it across your cockpit, then put some sort of small lug on the underside of your tiller, simply drop the lug into the right spot on the timing belt, and viola! Tiller is locked in place. I thought it was really clever when I read about it.  

A Davis tiller tamer came with our old Beneteau 235, but the plastic quickly gave up. When it died, I replaced it with the Canadian tiller lock. Great construction and simple to operate...I could lock the tiller with one hand. Bungee cords and other lines work well, but I enjoyed just having to flip the handle. I'll also add, we kept our boat in a slip and the tiller lock kept the rudder locked in position.  

Tillerlock, from Canada. Heavy line, strung across rear of cockpit, goes into a pinch point. Rotate ball-topped lever, and a cam squeezes the pinch point closed onto the line. Very intuitive! Lasts and lasts.  

I don't want to drill holes in my tiler, so I took an old surfboard leash and removed the neoprene ankle part and attached old line to it. It grips the tiller well and can be removed quickly.  

I use a simple bungy cord from a cleat either side of the cockpit with either one turn around the tiller for light air or two turns if the wind gets up a bit. I wrapped a piece of aluminum around the tiller to stop the bungy from biting into the wood of the tiller. It does just fine with the tiller just stretching the bungy a little with the wave action. Also have a tiller pilot that will really hold course when I'm up on the foredeck when the wind gets up a bit. Cheap easy and not in the way  

In the video it looks like the clutch is threatening to clip the helmsman's knees.  

This has been my solution. Pretty cheap. Two adjustable loops (adjustable grip hitches) and a loop in the middle (alpine butterfly). Works pretty good. Doubles as a dock line.  

• ?            
• 173.8K members

Top Contributors this Month

• Sport Betting
• Yearly calendar
• Latest results
• English Español French Italiano Nederlands

TheSports.org

  All sports Site

Field hockey - Dinamo Elektrostal Moscow

Hockey Club Dinamo Elektrostal is a field hockey team from Russia, based in Moscow. The club was founded in 1994.

Dinamo Elektrostal Moscow - Results

2021/2022 2018/2019 2017/2018 2017 2015/2016 2013/2014 2011/2012 2007/2008

Men's Euro Hockey League - Final Round - 2021/2022

Dinamo elektrostal moscow - identity.

• Official name : Hockey Club Dinamo Elektrostal
• Country : Russia
• Location : Moscow
• Founded : 1994
• Wikipedia link : http://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dinamo_Elektrostal

Dinamo Elektrostal Moscow - Titles, trophies and places of honor

• Best result : First Round in 2021/2022
• Best result : 1st
• 1 times first in 2010
• 1 times second in 2009
• 1 times third in 2017

Postal Address

• © Info Média Conseil : 419 Rue Lemelin, St-François QC G0A3S0, Canada

Call Us or fill the form

+90 216 900 28 62.

Don't hesitate to contact us!

Working time

Mon - Fri: 9:00 - 18:00 / Closed on Weekends

Company Headquarters

DEGIRMENDERE MAH. SANAYI CAD. 8 SK.7

KUSADASI 09400 AYDIN TURKIYE

Only for Carriers in the US , For loads, Please enter the required information.

Our offices.

Değirmendere Mah. Sanayi Cad.8

Sk. No:7 Kuşadası 09400 Aydın

+ (90) 256 340 03 40

[email protected]

Mon - Fri: 9:00 - 18:00 Closed on Weekends

Drive to us Now

Küçükbakkalköy Mah. Fevzipaşa Cad.

Bozkır Sok. No:1 ,K:3 D:15 Ataşehir 34750 Istanbul

+ (90) 216 900 28 62

+(90) 216 576 47 90

2, Stroitelny Lane, Elektrostal , Moscow

+7 (499) 390 35 04

[email protected]

Drive to our office 

128 City Road , London EC1V 2NX

+44 20 4577 1271

[email protected]

Mon - Fri: 9:30 - 17:00 Closed on Weekends

26 Seaman Ave Hempstead 11550 New York

+1 646 980 28 04

[email protected]

Humberto 1 985,Piso 2,Ofic 222

Constitucion Capital Federal CP 1103

Buenos Aires

+54 11 52 371 371

[email protected]

Mon - Fri: 9:00 - 17:30 Closed on Weekends