s2 8.0 sailboat review

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1979 S2 8.0B (26ft) - is this a good boat?

• Thread starter jk2894
• Start date Dec 9, 2007
• Brand-Specific Forums

Am looking at a 1979 8.0B. Will, of course, get a survey done before purchasing, but would really value some feedback from owners. Unfortunately, there are no owner reviews for this boat.Any owners - or people that have sailed this boat - what are the pros and cons of this boat??Thx in advance for your reply  

LeRoy Nooter

We like our 8.0B Hi,We bought our 1980 S2-8.0B (with trailer) out of Minnesota back in July - '07 and moved it to Carlyle Lake in Illinois. The swing keel was stuck up inside the shoal draft keel, and had been for the past 10 years. The prior owner just sailed it that way and we finished up the season with it that way, but still had fair windward performance. Shortly thereafter, I had the boat up in a hoist and did the repair. Can't wait for next season! But to answer your question: we are happy with the boat. With the 6" head room, a galley and the enclosed head, it makes for a good weekender. With the swing keel stuck inside the shoal draft keel (it drops down via a crank in the cockpit)tacking was a bit slow and tended to over steer. Ours had the tiller replaced with wheel steering, which we like because there is more room in the cockpit. We also have a 9.9hp outboard with electric start, but I've heard good things about the inboard version too. There are safety concerns with the gas inboard but some have a diesel. Another good feature is the roller furler genoa (not standard). There is ample room to walk around the deck which makes docking much easier. This is not a race boat, but there is a lot packed into this fairly quick 26' cruiser. Of course a new main would help, ours still has the original main. Hope this helps with your decision. Good luck!LeRoy NooterPS: There is also an S2 YAHOO group that might be of interest too.  

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S2 8.0 B Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of S2 8.0 B. Built by S2 Yachts (USA) and designed by Arthur Edmunds, the boat was first built in 1976. It has a hull type of Fin w/spade rudder and LOA is 7.92. Its sail area/displacement ratio 16.36. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by undefined, runs on undefined.

S2 8.0 B has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about S2 8.0 B and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, accomodations, contributions, who designed the s2 8.0 b.

S2 8.0 B was designed by Arthur Edmunds.

Who builds S2 8.0 B?

S2 8.0 B is built by S2 Yachts (USA).

When was S2 8.0 B first built?

S2 8.0 B was first built in 1976.

How long is S2 8.0 B?

S2 8.0 B is 6.53 m in length.

What is mast height on S2 8.0 B?

S2 8.0 B has a mast height of 7.96 m.

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S2 8.5 Meter

The 8.5 is good for cruising the coasts in comfort and style--as long as you like the modern look..

When Leon Slikkers founded S2 Yachts in 1973, much of the attention to detail that had previously characterized Slickcraft powerboats—Slikkers’ earlier boatbuilding venture— traveled with him to the new boatbuilding company. In the 13 years S2 sailboats were in production (S2 still makes powerboats), the company produced a variety of modern cruising designs from the board of Arthur Edmunds, all characterized by longish fin keels, freestanding spade rudders, straight sheerlines, and a staggering variety of draft options and cockpit locations.

In the early ’80s, S2 reached more for the performance market with the Grand Slam series of small boats, and the 10.3 “offshore racer-cruiser.” These higher performance boats were designed by Scott Graham and Eric Schlageter, well known for their MORC and smaller IOR designs.

The S2 8.5 is a 28-footer cast in the company’s traditional mold. Her hull dimensions, sail area, displacement, and general design characteristics put her square in the middle of the modern 28-footers such as the Tanzer 8.5, Newport 28, O’Day 28, and the Pearson 28.

The boat’s styling is conventionally modern. She has a fairly straight sheer, fairly high freeboard, and low, raked cabin trunk with dark tinted flush ports. Production of the 8.5 ran from 1981 to 1983. The boat was replaced by the similar S2 8.6, which continued until S2 stopped making sailboats in 1986.

Construction

The hull of the S2 8.5 is a solid hand layup. Glasswork is excellent, and is noted by owners as one of the main considerations in buying the boat. Gelcoat quality is excellent.

Slight roving printthrough is evident, but it is not objectionable. Minor hard spots are visible in the topsides, probably caused by the attachment of interior furniture and bulkheads.

The deck molding is cored with end grain balsa, giving a solid feel underfoot as well as providing reasonable insulating properties.

S2’s hull-to-deck joint is the basic type that we would like to see adopted throughout the industry. The hull molding has an inward-turning flange, onto which the deck molding is dropped. The joint is bedded in flexible sealant, and through bolted on six inch intervals by bolts passing through the full length slotted aluminum toerail. The joint is also through bolted across the stem.

All deck hardware is properly through bolted, although pulpits, cleats, and winches merely use nuts and washers on the underside of the deck, rather than the aluminum or stainless steel backing plates we prefer.

Another feature of the hull-to-deck joint is a heavy, semi-rigid vinyl rubrail at the sheerline, quite aptly termed a “crash rubrail” by S2. This will go a long way toward absorbing the shock of the inevitable encounters with docks and the other hard objects that seem to be attracted to the topsides of the typical sailboat. Although this rail is black when the boat is new, it had dulled to a chalky gray on older S2’s we examined.

The builder advertises “bronze seacocks on all through hull fittings.” These are not traditional tapered plug seacocks, but are ball valves mounted directly to through hull fittings. A proper seacock—whether it uses a ball valve or a tapered plug—has a heavy flange to allow through bolting to the hull. This is an important safety feature. Should a valve seize, it may become necessary to apply a great deal of leverage to the handle in order to open or close the valve. The deeply threaded through hull stem can easily break under these conditions, and more than one boat has been lost in this manner.

We also suggest that seacocks be installed on the cockpit drain scuppers and the bilge pump outlet, both of which may be under water while the boat is sailing. Light air performance would benefit by the fairing in of the through hull fittings, particularly the head intake and discharge, both of which are far enough forward to have a significant effect on water flow past the hull.

Ballast is a 3,000 pound lead casting, epoxied inside a hollow keel shell. We prefer an external lead casting bolted to the hull for its shock-absorbing qualities and ease of repair. This preference was reinforced recently when we examined an old Bristol 27 just sold by a friend. The surveyor noticed dampness near the bottom of the leading edge of the keel, which showed slight external damage. Probing the loose putty revealed some abrasion of the glass keel molding. In order to sell the boat, it was necessary to grind away a large portion of the glass at the front of the keel, dry out the ballast, and reglass the lead—a job that took several days of work and cost our friend a fair chunk of money.

Much of the boat’s interior structure is plywood, glassed to the hull. Fillet bonding is neat and workmanlike with no rough edges to be found.

Chainplates are conventional stainless steel flat bar, bolted to bulkheads and plywood gussets in the main cabin. These are properly backed with stainless steel pads. Due to the fact that the hull is lined throughout with a carpet-like synthetic material, it is not possible to examine the bonding of the chainplate knees to the hull. The stemhead fitting is a stainless steel weldment, through bolted to the deck and hull and reinforced inside the hull with a stainless steel gusset to prevent deflection of the deck from the pull aft of the headstay. We’d like to see a metal backup pad behind this fitting rather than the washers which are used.

General construction is thoughtful and well executed, with excellent glasswork, a strong and simple hull-to-deck joint, and reasonably installed hardware and fittings.

Handling Under Power

Although some early models of the 8.5 used a seven horsepower BMW diesel, the 1982 version employs an eight horsepower Yanmar. These small Yanmars are quite impressive, light in weight and far smoother than the company’s older rockcrushers.

Because of the high freeboard and considerable windage of the 8.5, the standard engine is the absolute minimum power plant for the boat. Recognizing this fact, the company offered a 15 horsepower, two-cylinder Yanmar as an option. For another 75 pounds and $1,150, we would want this option on the boat if the ability to get places under power is a real consideration.

The extra fuel consumption of the larger engine will scarcely be noticed. The 18 gallon aluminum fuel tank will probably give a range under power of over 250 miles—more than adequate for a 28 foot cruising boat.

The fuel tank is located under the cockpit and is securely mounted and properly grounded. There is an easily reached fuel shut off between the engine and tank. Unfortunately, the fuel fill is located in the cockpit sole. Spilled diesel oil turns even the best fiberglass nonskid into an ice skating rink. Fuel fills should be located on deck, where spills can be efficiently washed away.

Engine access is via a large removable panel on the inboard face of the quarterberth. This panel lacks any kind of handhold to make it easily removable, which will discourage regular checking of the engine oil. The top companionway step also removes for access, but it’s a long reach to the dipstick.

There is no oil pan under the engine. It will be necessary to be very careful when changing oil to keep the bilge clean. We have yet to see anyone change oil and filters on a boat engine without spilling something.

With the quarterberth panel removed, access for routine service is excellent. The quarterberth has remarkable headroom over, so that the mechanic will not feel like a trapped spelunker after a half hour of work. Engine removal will require some joinerwork disassembly.

Handling Under Sail

The S2 8.5 is no slug under sail. Her PHRF rating of 174 to 180 compares very favorably to other boats of her size and type. The Sabre 28, for example, has a rating of 198. The Pearson 28 about 195, and the O’Day 28 about 198.

Part of this is no doubt due to the fact that the standard sails on the boat come from the North loft. While North’s OEM sails may not be the vertical cut Mylar-Kevlar wonders that adorn custom boats, they’re a lot better than most.

S2 now uses Hall spars. The simple masthead rig is extremely clean, with airfoil spreaders and internal tangs. The boom features an internal outhaul and provision for two internally-led reefing lines, with cam cleats at the forward end of the boom.

The deck-stepped mast is mounted in a stainless steel deck plate incorporating plenty of holes for the attachment of blocks. Halyards and Cunningham lead aft along the cabin house top to a pair of Lewmar #8 winches. Lewmar #16s are optional, but hardly necessary.

The main is controlled by a six-part Harken rig mounted on the end of the boom, and a Kenyon traveler mounted on the aft cockpit coaming. This will work fine with the tiller-steered version of the boat. With wheel steering, the mainsheet is likely to be a nuisance to the helmsman.

Because of the end-of-boom sheeting, a boom vang will be essential for full mainsail control. Ironically, the boat’s drawings show almost mid-boom sheeting, with the traveler mounted on the bridgedeck at the forward end of the cockpit. This is probably a better arrangement, although it heavily loads the center of the boom and requires more sheeting force.

Despite the fact that the shrouds are set well in from the rail, the boat lacks inboard headsail tracks. Rather, you are limited to snatch blocks shackled to the toerail track. A six-foot piece of track set inboard of the rail would be a useful addition.

Standard headsail sheet winches are two-speed Lewmar #30s. Options include both larger winches and self-tailers, both of which are worth considering for either racing or cruising. The cockpit coamings are wide enough for mounting larger primaries and secondaries.

The high-quality rig and sails add to the price of the S2, but they are additions well worth the cost.

Deck Layout

The deck layout of the 8.5 is clean and functional, with no toe stubbers to catch you unawares. There are two foredeck mooring cleats, but no bow chocks. The necessity to lead an anchor line well off the boat’s centerline, coupled with high freeboard forward, is likely to result in a boat which sails around on her anchor or mooring. The 8.5 has a pair of wide stainless steel chafing strips at the bow which will greatly protect the deck from the chafe of the anchor line.

The 8.5’s foredeck anchor well is one of the best we’ve seen. It is shallow—just deep enough to hold an anchor and adequate rode. There are double scuppers, which offer less likelihood of clogging. The lid is held on by a full-length piano hinge, and there is a positive latch.

The shallow locker well above the waterline means that water is less likely to enter through the scuppers, which can be a real problem with a deep anchor well. When the bow pitches into waves, a deep anchor well can fill with water, and if the scuppers clog with debris, you can find yourself sailing around with several hundred pounds of extra weight in the worst possible position. There is no provision for securing the bitter end of the anchor rode, but a big galvanized eyebolt installed in the well by the owner will solve that one.

The running lights leave something to be desired. Their location at deck level just aft of the stem makes them vulnerable to damage when handling ground tackle. We much prefer an international style bicolor mounted on the pulpit, another two feet off the water: easier to see, and out of the way. Wiring for the running lights is exposed in the anchor well, and should be secured out of the way.

A recessed teak handrail runs the full length of the cabin trunk, serving the dual function of heavy weather handhold and cabin trim piece. Its shape makes it far easier to oil or varnish than the conventional round handrail, although the wide, flat section seems somewhat awkward after years of grabbing round rails.

The 8.5’s cockpit is the maximum size we’d want to see on a boat of this size. The T-shape is designed to accommodate the optional wheel steerer, yielding a somewhat odd layout for the tiller-steered version. A bench seat spans the aft end of the cockpit. Although this makes good seating in port, we doubt that you’d want anyone sitting there under sail: too much weight in the end of the boat. It does make a natural helmsman’s seat for wheel steering.

The engine controls and instrument panel are also located at the aft end of the cockpit, and are basically inaccessible to the helmsman of a tiller-steered version.

There are two lifting lids in the aft cockpit bench, giving access to a cavernous space under the cockpit. To be useful, dacron bags should be fitted to the inside of these lockers. Then, they’ll be handy stowage for spare sheets and blocks.

There are comfortable contoured seats along each side of the cockpit, with a huge locker under the port seat. Although plywood pen boards somewhat separate this locker from the engine space under the cockpit, it would be far too easy for deeply piled junk to get knocked over the board and into the engine. This locker should be partitioned into smaller spaces unless it is to be used exclusively as a sail locker.

The battery boxes, fitted at the forward end of the locker, could benefit from plywood or fiberglass lids to keep battery acid off gear which might find its way onto the batteries. The box is designed to take two batteries—one battery is standard—stored in plastic containers. A single lid covering the whole box would be more efficient.

The huge cockpit will accommodate up to six for sailing, and eight for in-port partying. The cockpit seat bottoms are contoured, and the cockpit coamings slope outboard for more comfortable seating. However, the seats are both too narrow and too short for sleeping.

The forward end of the cockpit is protected by a narrow bridgedeck. However, the cockpit coatings extend a full foot above the level of the bridgedeck, To block the companionway to the level of the top of the coamings will require leaving two of the three drop boards in place when sailing.

Although there is moderate taper to the sides of the companionway, making it easier to remove the drop boards, it is still necessary to lift each board about five inches before it can be removed. This is far safer than many tapered companionways, where boards practically fall out if you look at them wrong. The companionway slide is one of the best we’ve seen. It’s a contoured piece of acrylic fitted with a convenient grabrail. It slides easily in extruded aluminum channels, and is fitted with a fiberglass storm hood. As on many boats, the aft cabin bulkhead slopes forward, rendering it impossible to leave the drop boards out for ventilation when it rains.

Owners consistently praise the interior design and finishing of S2 sailboats. From looking at the 8.5, it’s pretty easy to see why.

There are no exposed interior fiberglass surfaces except the head floor pan molding. The hull and cabin overhead are lined with a carpet-like synthetic fabric. While this will undoubtedly cut down on condensation, we at first wondered how this fabric would hold up over time. Inevitably, the hull liner and even the overhead will get wet. In freshwater areas, this is no problem. The water will eventually evaporate. In salt water, however, wet fabric never seems to dry. Salt draws moisture like a magnet draws steel. Since first seeing this boat, however, we’ve had good experiences with the fabric. Be sure, however, to get a good wet-or-dry vacuum to keep it clean.

Interior layout is fairly conventional, with Vberths forward, and immediately aft, a full width head. The head can be closed off from both the forward cabin and the main cabin with solid doors—a real luxury in a boat this size. There is a large hanging locker in the head, and reasonable storage space for toilet articles.

The word for the main cabin is “wide,” with the settees pushed as far outboard as they can go. Décor is a little heavy on the teak for our taste, but it is one of the better coordinated interiors we have seen. S2 had a good interior decorator.

A fold-down dining table seats four. When folded against the bulkhead, it is held in place by a single latch, which makes us nervous.

Neither settee is full length. The foot of the port settee runs under the galley counter, making it long enough for sleeping, although your feet may feel a little claustrophobic in the tiny footwell.

The starboard settee is an unusual configuration. The aftermost 12″ of the settee folds up to form an arm rest, leaving a gap between the end of the settee and the head of the quarterberth.

Inexplicably, this gap is referred to on the accommodation plan as a “charting area,” although there is neither a standard nor an optional chart table. It’s sort of like the designer ran out of energy before completing the interior design.

Over the non-existent “charting area” is the best electrical panel we’ve seen on a 28 foot boat. The panel has a locking battery switch, battery test meter, and a panel with room for 14 circuit breakers, although only half are installed on the standard boat.

The space is welcome, since with the proliferation of marine electronics most electrical panels are woefully inadequate.

Most quarterberths tend to induce claustrophobia. That of the 8.5 is more likely to exacerbate any tendencies you might have to agoraphobia. At last, a quarterberth which will not give you a concussion when you sit bolt upright in the middle of the night after your neighbor drags down on you in a wind shift.

The standard main cabin sole is carpet-covered fiberglass. For an additional $325, teak and holly was available for the traditionalist. We’d want it. Unfortunately there is no access to the bilge in the main cabin. None. This is inexcusable, and could be dangerous. A few hours with a saber saw should solve this rather basic problem.

The galley is workable and accessible, with no awkward posturing required to do the dishes. The sink gets an A+. It is a full nine inches deep, is large enough to take a frying pan, and mounted close to the centerline.

In contrast, the icebox gets a C-. It is larger than normal on a boat of this size, but it drains to the bilge, has a poorly insulated top, and a tiny, uninsulated hatch without a trace of a gasket. Boo.

Because of limited counter space, the two burner Kenyon alcohol stove is mounted athwartships, rather than fore and aft. This means that the stove cannot be gimballed, and that it is necessary to reach across the inboard burner to reach the outboard one. Given the fact that countertop gimballed stoves are usually dangerous, the lack of gimballing doesn’t bother us much. What does bother us is that if you want to upgrade the stove to something more functional, the limited space allocated will stretch your ingenuity.

A fold down table at the end of the galley counter gives additional counter space, but it must be left up in order to use the port settee for sleeping.

Roominess, excellent execution, and good color coordination are trademarks of the interiors of all S2s, and the 8.5 fits well into this enviable tradition.

Conclusions

The S2 8.5 is a good boat for cruising the Great Lakes or any coast in comfort and a certain amount of style. Her appearance may be a little modern for traditionalists, with her straight sheer and European-style cabin windows.

Pricey? Yes, but when you look at the things that go into the boat—the rig, good sails, and a comfortable, well finished interior—the price may seem a bit less painful. You still pay for what you get.

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building a pocket trawler from an S2 8.0 C

Discussion in ' Boat Design ' started by popeyejackusn , Jun 3, 2019 .

popeyejackusn S2 Trawler completion

I've just purchased an S2 26 ft center cockpit sailboat. I believe I can make a trawler from it. It is full displacement, 30 inch draft, with a Yanmar diesel. It weighs 5,000 lbs and is trailerable. I just wonder if anyone has heard of anyone building one from that same boat design.  

bajansailor Marine Surveyor

I am guessing that yours is the 8.0 C model, as per the link below? SailboatData.com - S2 8.0 C Sailboat https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/s2-80-c Re 'making a trawler from it', what is your proposed plan? Are you thinking of building a wheelhouse over the cockpit area? Does it still have a sailing rig? Are you going to keep the Yanmar diesel that is currently installed? Is it the 8 hp YSM 8 as mentioned in the link below? Specifications of S2 8.0c Coming About ~ s/v Coming About https://s2-coming-about.blogspot.com/p/specifications.html You could put a bigger engine in (if desired), perhaps up to 25 - 30 hp at the most, but there is no point in going any bigger than this really.  

Yes, it is the 8.0 C model. I'll most likely pull the current motor YSB 8 and install a 2 GMF. Increase the fuel and water capacities. Install more ports and windows along the front of the raised cockpit. Build a hardtop from the front of the cockpit to the end of the stern. Not sure of enclosing it. It has no mast or rigging.  

That should turn out to be a very nice little trawler yacht. And with only 30" of draft, you shouldn't have to worry too much about her being 'too stiff' (re rolling) without the sailing rig. Re installing a 2GM engine instead of the YSB8 - this will be twice the power, so you might well have to change the propeller, depending on what the gearbox ratio is on the new engine when compared to the old engine. Here is some general info about the 2GM. Yanmar 2GM20 - Wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yanmar_2GM20 And she should be VERY economical on fuel - at least 10 miles per gallon, probably more (15 even?).  

goodwilltoall Senior Member

Saildata shows 4' draft, is it a CB boat? Its a small, light, displacement boat and the current engine probably gives her all the power she can use, it would be a lot of work/costs for small improvement plus take up valuable room  

Nice layout, I would concentrate on new deck and pilot house design, so many conversions ive seen turn into frankenboats  

Allweather boats, same dimensions as yours  

Attached Files:

Aw26drawingforweb2.jpg.

Milehog Clever Quip

I'd try to catch a ride on another converted sailboat. I've heard they will roll your guts out.  

Phil_B Junior Member

Milehog said: ↑ I'd try to catch a ride on another converted sailboat. I've heard they will roll your guts out. Click to expand...

Well I got the boat home and started working on removing all the barnacles. I have already repaired the rudder and need to reseal the rudder stuffing box. I have to come up with some idea for the enclosure of the center cockpit.  

sharpii2 Senior Member

I would consider adding a long, shallow keel. This would serve three purposes: 1.) Give the boat better tracking ability, so the wind doesn't blow it all over the place. 2.) Protect the rudder and propellor. 3.) Dampen any rolling which is likely to happen with a hull which has a lot of form stability. This keel should be close to the LWL of the boat in length and deeper at the stern than at the bow. It would have little if any ballast--maybe just enough to counteract its buoyancy. By my envelope calculations, this keel would be about 9.6 sf in area an add at most 6 inches to the boat's draft. This is because this hull has a rather deep bow knuckle and a tucked up stern. You could keep the original swing keel and motor with it half retracted. This would give you the directional control you need, but it would not protect the propellor, and it would do little to dampen the roll. The proposed cockpit awning will add weight high up from the Vertical Center of Buoyancy, even if it is just a lightly framed fabric type.  

I drove down to Marathon Key yesterday and bought a Yanmar 2GMF20 for 500 dollars. It was submerged for some time. I'll rebuild it and install it in the near future. It should be a great upgrade over the old YSB8 I'm taking out. It was rebuilt and runs great. It's for sale. Cheap.  

Chuck Losness Senior Member

You might want to consider adding a swim step/transom extension. Not that hard to do. It will smooth out the water flow off of the transom and help combat excessive squatting at higher speeds. It will also be a nice place to get on and off the boat. I extended the transom on my boat. Do a search for terminal trawlers and sailboat to powerboat conversions for more ideas for your project. I plan to do something similar if I ever sell my gulfstar 37.  

That's a nice job you did on yours. I have a 31 ft 1984 Island Packet I've been trying to sell for over six months. It has no mast, rigging or sails. I'm unable to get 5000 for it . I'm on the verge of stripping it and using the 3gmf and all her internals to complete my trawler.  

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I would do exactly as sharpii recommends adding a long shallow keel. Chuck, that extension is what I would want on any boat I owned. Popeye jack can you pm me re: boat for sale and location  

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S2 8.0 literature

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I purchased a 1982 S2 8.0 26'. I would like to know if there is any literature out there on this boat. I've found the parts catalog and the maintainence manual for the sail drive along with the electrical, all I need is the owners manual or the likeness of it for the boat itself. Can anyone point me in the right direction?  

Greetings, I have an 8.0 that I purchased new in 1977, I have the factory manual but my boat was equipped with an outboard, I can make copies if you think that it will help. Let me know Good Luck Greg  

Greg, Anything on the boat would be appretiated. I have the Saildrive Manual and Parts Catalog, I would only like the litterature on the boat itself. If you could send me a copy of the manual I would be very thankful. If you know of anyone who needs a Saildrive Parts Catalog for any of the saildrive used in the 8.0 let me know, I have them all on a file that can be sent E-mail. Dennis  

I will try to make copies for you, get me an address and Iwill send them to you when I get them done. Greg  

Denis...Some info & drawings here as well...http://www.angelfire.com/mi/loosecruise/S2/fleet.html  

Thanks camaraderie! That helps  

I'm just wondering. Is there anyone else our there that has an S28.0? If so, I would like to hear from you and also like to know how youre boat sails in your opinion.  

I have sailed my 8.0 since 1977 when it was purchased new it is a keel/centerboard model and while it won't point a high as some keel boats it will sail very nicely on a reach or downwind. I have sailed the boat from Ft. walton Bch to mandeville La (lake Ponchartrain)and back.I sailed it on the lake for about 10 years the boat will balance nicely with the adjustable CB such that you can pick a point, set the trim and release the tiller and she will stay on that point for quite a while with out a hand on the tiller. I have sailed other boats as well from rangers, irwins, J boats, hunters, catalinas but I have to admit that the workmanship, brightwork, layout etc is better on the s2 than the other boats I have sailed on. (my opinion). while not totally unbiased it is at the very least honest. Be Safe Greg  

Windswimmer, I need to refit the boat with new halyards and such. Right now I am questioning the integrity of the past owner. The outhaul is 3/8" line as is the reef and I think it should be 1/4". What did you have on yours on yours? How can I find out the origonal rigging specs?  

Outhaul was 1/4 inch cunningham 3/8 inch any reefing line would be better 3/8 so as to get a better grip while reefing under way. IMO Greg  

Greg, I'm taking noats and what you tell me seems to fit all the hardware I have on the boom. That confirms it for me. Thanks again as always. Dennis  

Sorry Greg. That would be NOTES. I can't spell but I can do math very well. Dennis  

I just bought a 1980 8.0 and would appreciate any manuals/specs/brochures that anyone could share. Email is [email protected]  

Dan, I have the manual that came with by boat when I purchased it in 77 on line as does dorourke, I will try to send you a copy tomorrow from work if you want it. What type 8.0 meter do you have? Where is the boat located. Be Safe, Welcome Greg  

Dan, What do you have for an engine?, inboard or outboard? I have all the Zypher saildrive parts catalog and maintainence manuals for the S2 8.0's in E-files I can send email. Do you need one?  

By the way! How fast does the S2 8.0 sail? I've heard it does 7 knots regulary. I haven't been able to sail mine to any extent yet to find out.  

S2 8.0a We have a 1976 8.0A. It is a wonderful boat. Full (4') keel and inboard Yanmar diesel. We have just started our second year of sailing her. I guess our only issue would be the windows, they are one piece formed Lexan. I would love to get my hands on new ones!! If anybody has any literature, tips, or general comments, I would like to chat with other 8.0 owners.  

dlc1265 I have a 1983 S2 8.0B brochure that might get you started on the windows and what material is. I don't think Tiara Yachts has them any more but they might have info on how to get them made. Let me know on the brochure and I can shoot it over to you via email. Tiara Home Page Try the contact. Dennis  

S2 8.0 Literature Can you email me a copy of the literature? That might be a good start! Thanks! [email protected]  

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S2 8.0 Dorourke, I am helping a fellow sailor set up an S2 8.0 ahd it will need a new tiller. The existing tiller is not at all correct. could You send me a picture of your tiller from the side and or some dimensions so we can have a tiller made. This would be greatly appreciated. Doodad1  

tiller DooDad, First, I'm sorry I wasen't here to reply sooner. I am one of the few still working in my neck of the woods. I sent you a PM, I hope you read it. I bought my tiller from Defender, I matched it up with the old tiller as best I could. I had to cut off about 12" to give the room in the cockpit as the old one did. I too haven't been able to find an exact replacement for my S2 8.0B. I also have concerns with the rudder poast tube. I noticed when the weather is rough and the seas build the post oscilates from side to side with the wave action. I am now making a pattern to have a bracket cast in aluminum so I can mount it to the deck. If anyone else knows of a better way. Please let me know. Dennis  

My wife & I bought a 1980 8.0B from Lorain (OH) this spring. Now in Toledo (OH), so far, so good. Regarding the cockpit rudder post, before buying this 8.0B, we looked at a 1982 located on Lake Ontario in NY that had fiberglass reinforcement at the cockpit sole. We've had ours out in some 2-3ft waves and haven't noticed any funny business around the rudder post (yet).  

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• Sailboat Guide

S2 8.0 B Sail Drive TM

S2 8.0 B Sail Drive TM is a 25 ′ 11 ″ / 7.9 m monohull sailboat designed by Arthur Edmunds and built by S-2 Yachts starting in 1976.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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