19 ft alacrity sailboat

Alacrity 19

The alacrity 19 is a 18.5ft masthead sloop designed by peter stevenson and built in wood or fiberglass by hurley marine ltd. since 1960..

The Alacrity 19 is a light sailboat which is a good performer. It is stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a day-boat.

Alacrity 19 for sale elsewhere on the web:

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My New Project: 19' Hurley Alacrity 'Artful'

• Thread starter kylemccann
• Start date 3 Nov 2015

Hi Kylemccann, welcome to the forums. Yes you've got a fair bit of work there, but nothing too tricky; I'd strongly resist the urge to strip out everything, especially with winter approaching. I'd tidy her up and then attack one bit at a time, probably starting with the main hatch washboards then cockpit locker lids. I couldn't see the seal channel by the lids which you mention, but there is very useful stuff called ' Hatchseal Tape ', about 19mm wide, 2mm thick neoprene, self adhesive one side. It comes in rolls for about £10 at chandlers, I'll see if i can locate it in a minute. For seagoing use the hatches need to be pulled down tight onto it with clips, but at the least it should help a lot duting your refit. I don't know if you have googled ' Alacrity ' to see if there's an owner's association ? Otherwise lots of people on here with fairly similar vintage & type boats with transferrable ideas & tips. Good luck and keep dreaming, one day you'll be setting off under blue skies. Here's the stuff I mentioned; http://www.force4.co.uk/force-4-hatch-seal-tape-3mx19mmx6mm.html?sqr=hatch seal tape&#.Vjihtm7NSSo  

duncan99210

Well-known member.

There's an active Hurley Owners Association. Search for it via Google and you can join online. There's also a Yahoo group which is perhaps a better information exchange as well as the Association. Lots of info on the Association website that you'll get access to if you join (£10 a year IIRC).  

I had a Vivacity 20, 18 inches longer than the Vivacity 18. Lovely boat but prone to window leaks even after replacing the H seal. Possibly because the GRP thickness varied around the window opening. I cut 8mm perspex sheet to the size of the window openings +15mm then bedded it onto sealant with multiple self tapping screws through predrilled (slightly oversized) holes in the perspex and slightly undersized holes in the GRP around the window opening. It worked.  

Seajet said: Hi Kylemccann, welcome to the forums. Yes you've got a fair bit of work there, but nothing too tricky; I'd strongly resist the urge to strip out everything, especially with winter approaching. I'd tidy her up and then attack one bit at a time, probably starting with the main hatch washboards then cockpit locker lids. I couldn't see the seal channel by the lids which you mention, but there is very useful stuff called ' Hatchseal Tape ', about 19mm wide, 2mm thick neoprene, self adhesive one side. It comes in rolls for about £10 at chandlers, I'll see if i can locate it in a minute. For seagoing use the hatches need to be pulled down tight onto it with clips, but at the least it should help a lot duting your refit. I don't know if you have googled ' Alacrity ' to see if there's an owner's association ? Otherwise lots of people on here with fairly similar vintage & type boats with transferrable ideas & tips. Good luck and keep dreaming, one day you'll be setting off under blue skies. Here's the stuff I mentioned; http://www.force4.co.uk/force-4-hatch-seal-tape-3mx19mmx6mm.html?sqr=hatch seal tape&#.Vjihtm7NSSo Click to expand...

TC I think a previous owner must have carried out this change, however I think I may need to re-seal as the silicone is possibly leaking.  

Leak with externally applied perspex window. I would try Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure first. (£8 from Gael Force Marine) It is a very runny liquid dispensed from a small plastic bottle with a nozzle. You can access the top half of the perspex/GRP join from outside and the lower half from inside. Good luck with the project!  

That looks like a fine little boat. Just the wood work needs attention. It certainly would be a more fun project if you could get it home for the winter. Don't get to stressed about rain leaks mine has always leaked. Just do what you can. You would be well advised to replace the stay wires before sailing as these can let go without warning after 20 odd years sometimes less. When they let go it usually breaks the mast. Other wise just get it together and go sailing. It does not have to be perfect in looks. You might want to get an outboard motor for it. Makes life easier when learning to sail. Just enjoy olewill  

kylemccann said: I have made a start on the Drop boards, they were in saveable conditions they just need a few more coats of varnish. I am in the process of making up new hatch lids as the old ones were totally rotten. I will try and post a picture of the channel next time Im on board. But that Hatchseal tape which I previously didnt know the name of looks like it may just do the trick would you recommend fitting the hatches with hinges or possibly bungying (if thats a word) from the inside of locker. Thanks for the help! Click to expand...

TC Tuckton said: Leak with externally applied perspex window. I would try Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure first. (£8 from Gael Force Marine) It is a very runny liquid dispensed from a small plastic bottle with a nozzle. You can access the top half of the perspex/GRP join from outside and the lower half from inside. Good luck with the project! Click to expand...

William_H said: That looks like a fine little boat. Just the wood work needs attention. It certainly would be a more fun project if you could get it home for the winter. Don't get to stressed about rain leaks mine has always leaked. Just do what you can. You would be well advised to replace the stay wires before sailing as these can let go without warning after 20 odd years sometimes less. When they let go it usually breaks the mast. Other wise just get it together and go sailing. It does not have to be perfect in looks. You might want to get an outboard motor for it. Makes life easier when learning to sail. Just enjoy olewill Click to expand...

Seajet said: Hi, for securing the new locker lids I would use hinges and the sort of clips which have an over-centre action, so they pull the lid down reasonably tight onto whatever rubber seal you fit. These catches can also take a padlock, handy when you get her equipped. Be a bit careful with hinges, if you can source them there are some good slightly chunky plastic ones around with stainless hinge pins - a lot of brass hinges seem a good idea but have nasty mild steel pins, so they soon seize up. However you do it, the lids must be secure and unable to float away or get knocked off if the weather goes hectic - being suddenly left with a big hole which will let a huge amount of water in ( even just into a locker let alone the whole cabin ) is to be avoided... For tasty stainless steel fastenings try googling ' Protex fasteners ' - tasty prices too but you generally only fit such things once, and they have a huge range of various ways of clipping stuff. Click to expand...

ghostlymoron

The grooves look to me like drainage channels to direct water into the cockpit. If they are, it would be foolish to block them with a rubber seal. You could fit a seperate rubber seal inboard of it. Seals direct would have some suitable stuff.  

William_H said: You might want to get an outboard motor for it. Makes life easier when learning to sail. Just enjoy olewill Click to expand...

ghostlymoron said: The grooves look to me like drainage channels to direct water into the cockpit. If they are, it would be foolish to block them with a rubber seal. You could fit a seperate rubber seal inboard of it. Seals direct would have some suitable stuff. Click to expand...

• 13 Nov 2015

What does everyone recommend for making templates for plywood for the interior. Obviously cardboard would be my first choice but where can I actually get this in a big enough size, relatively cheap?  

kylemccann said: What does everyone recommend for making templates for plywood for the interior. Obviously cardboard would be my first choice but where can I actually get this in a big enough size, relatively cheap? Click to expand...

Lon nan Gruagach

Active member.

Hi kylemccann, welcome here and to the world of Hurleys. I too got my first boat this year, a Hurley 20 and even though I've only been out fishing with no sail yet its a fantastic thing to have. If your locker covers are like mine (most likely) then the channel is for drainage and a snug fitting cover with a lip will do mostly, a seal attached to the lid will improve matters without blocking the drainage. Not that the water would have much further to go, just avoid a few (dont listen Mary Berry) soggy bottoms. For cardboard, try supermarkets and white goods shops, any that deliver and fit will have the boxes returned on the empty truck. happy new boat.  

Lino - yes linoleum floor stuff - is handy for templates I seem to remember, though it would be pot luck to have or find some now I guess. Cardboard strikes me as a bit innacurate & vague, but I understand supermarkets let one have it if asked. If the rubber hatch seals are as I now think, try a car motor factor for ' P ' shaped car door seals - when I suggested hatch seal tape I was thinking of a quick fix for the boat ashore against the coming winter; most seals require some sort of clip or pull from beneath to clamp the lid down on the rubber.  

VicS said: I guess "template paper" is the smart answer ....................... otherwise brown paper ... preferably "off the roll" rather than folded. Click to expand...

Dougal Tolan said: Hi kylemccann, welcome here and to the world of Hurleys. I too got my first boat this year, a Hurley 20 and even though I've only been out fishing with no sail yet its a fantastic thing to have. If your locker covers are like mine (most likely) then the channel is for drainage and a snug fitting cover with a lip will do mostly, a seal attached to the lid will improve matters without blocking the drainage. Not that the water would have much further to go, just avoid a few (dont listen Mary Berry) soggy bottoms. For cardboard, try supermarkets and white goods shops, any that deliver and fit will have the boxes returned on the empty truck. happy new boat. Click to expand...

Seajet said: Lino - yes linoleum floor stuff - is handy for templates I seem to remember, though it would be pot luck to have or find some now I guess. Cardboard strikes me as a bit innacurate & vague, but I understand supermarkets let one have it if asked. If the rubber hatch seals are as I now think, try a car motor factor for ' P ' shaped car door seals - when I suggested hatch seal tape I was thinking of a quick fix for the boat ashore against the coming winter; most seals require some sort of clip or pull from beneath to clamp the lid down on the rubber. Click to expand...

graham said: This is the perfect time of year to get large bits of cardboard. bicycles are delivered flat packed in big cardboard boxes to bike shops. Just go in and ask for a cardboard bike box and they will probably ask you how many you want. the boxes are about 4 foot by 2 foot. We had an Alacrity once. Great boat , very strong and sails well . They sit upright on the twin keels but remove the rudder before the tide drops or it will lift off its pintles and float away if your not looking. Ask me how I know this Click to expand...

dylanwinter

hardboard is great for templates or you can buy storage boxes - which are really well made  

Regarding replacing the stay wires. You will need a yacht rigger to supply and attach the end fittings. The best is to remove the wires and deliver to the rigger asking for replacement. It would be worth raising the mast and checking the length of the existing wires. This way you can get the new wires just right. Wires come with a loop made in each end and a stainless steel thimble fitted inside the loop. The alternative is that possibly on the bottom there is a threaded rode swaged on. This screws into the turnscrew length adjuster. But there are many different variations on these arrangements. Even DIY fittings but these tend to be expensive. The original wires probably look fine. If any strands of the 19 strands are broken usually at either end then it definitely needs replacement. However most insurance companies insist on replacement at around 10 years old. They can fail without warning and seem to fail after a number of years regardless of usage. So while the cost is not insignificant to replace them the cost if one fails is a new mast. good luck olewill  

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• Sailboat Guide

1965 Hurley Alacrity 19

• Description

Seller's Description

Sailed the past 11 seasons including 2022. Just off the mooring last week and now on the trailer. Lost storage; must go! Free! Hurley Alacrity 19. Three 6 foot berths in cabin. Three mains, all 3 good. Three good hank-on jibs. Two anchors. All bronze turnbuckles. Solid fiberglass; no soft spots! Rub rail, top sides, and bottom painted annually. Needs deck painted; little else needed. Not a salvage; fair to good condition. Seaworthy, stable, and easy to sail. Clear title. Road ready and currently registered trailer.

You must move promptly. Include phone number and email, please and thanks.

https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/alacrity-19

Can include Yamaha 2 cycle outboard; engine price negotiable!

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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Sunday, November 13, 2011

Alacrity 19.

2 comments:

Hi Bill, Well I never I always thought the Peter Stephenson designed cruiser was built in Leigh-on-Sea by Russell Marine, originally in cold moulded plywood before going to GRP.I have a great book by Denny Desoutter called Small Boat Cruising published in 1964 which lists Russell Marine as the builder of the Alacrity. As an old Leigh boy myself I can clearly remember their yard in Elm Road. best Regards Paul P.S. My wife and I have just booked our flights to the UK and will be there on and off through May & June. I would like to think we could catch up for a chat at some time over that period. We will be based at my sisters in Hadleigh so won't be far away.

Hi Paul, Here are quotes from two websites: http://alacrity19.blogspot.com/2007/07/alacrity-history.html The Alacrity was marketed as a Hurley for one year - 1969. Hurley did not just mould the hulls for Russell Marine but completed the whole yacht ready to take to sea. Russell Marine built them alone after about 1972. http://sailboatdata.com/view_builder.asp?builder_id=72 (Earlier ALACRITY models were built by Hurley Marine.) Soon afterward, an extended version called the Vivacity 20 was built, available with either twin or fin keels. ......................... You are right about the original, but shorter Alacrity being made with moulded wood. Where that was done and who did it, I do not know. .......................... I reckon there's a good chance that we shall be able to meet when you come to Hadleigh. I am planning to take my boat somewhere early in the season for camp cruising, perhaps a fortnight at a time, depending on weather. Best wishes, Bill. PS Your new boat is a stunner.

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The Alacrity 19 was designed in 1960 by Peter Stevenson. It was an open plan, relatively beamy yacht and they were built by Hurley Marine for the Essex based Hurley agent Russell Marine Ltd. They performed well but the accommodation and headroom were limited, but at least one has crossed the Atlantic.

The Alacrity was built in great numbers and was marketed as a Hurley for one year - 1969. Hurley did not just mould the hulls for Russell Marine but completed the whole yacht ready to take to sea. Russell Marine built them alone after about 1972.

Peter Stevenson's wife, Norma, has recently been in touch with the Association (Sep 2014) and has sent us the following message

I am delighted to know about the Alacrity; my husband Peter Stevenson designed her, then sold the drawings to Hurley and so didn't receive any royalties, Even so, I am pleased that the boats are still sailing. Should you require any more information I'll be happy to send it to you. Before we were back in Burnham we were in the West Indies with our Colin Archer double-ender, Happy Days! I attach a picture of Peter Stevenson (he's the one in the foreground) sailing an Alacrity. (The picture is above, click on it to see a larger version)

The Alacrity 19 was stretched by 18" and became the Vivacity 20. The re-design was by DC Pollard. The model was changed several times during its production run. Russell Marine joined forces with Catalina Yachts of the USA and also produced the Alacrity 21, Alacrity 22/670 and Vivacity yachts. The Alacrity 22/670 was a very different yacht to the 19 that Hurley Marine built. The 22 evolved and was later known as the Jaguar 22 in the UK, Catalina 22 in USA and Lynx in France. It was also built in Spain. Russell Marine eventually renamed themselves as Jaguar Yachts.

Whilst building the Alacrity 19 Hurley Marine also built a large range of similar yachts. These included the Signet 20 (built for a Welsh company but also marketed as a Hurley for a while), Silhouette, Hurley 18, Felicity 20, Hurley 20, Hurley 22, Hurley 24.

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Wednesday, July 11, 2007

• Alacrity history

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