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St. Thomas Shopping including Charlotte Amalie and Yacht Haven

Main Street in downtown Charlotte Amalie is the original shopping district on the island and it has the most character. Newer additions are the mall at Crown Bay and the shops at the Yacht Haven Grande. On the east end, Red Hook offers offbeat shops in a low-pressure environment.

By far the most talked-about item for sale on St. Thomas is jewelry—from fine name brands to upscale knockoffs. In addition to jewelry you’ll find perfume, name-brand skin care products, sunglasses, handbags, liquor, and crystal. Tucked amid big-name retailers like A.H. Riise, Little Switzerland, and Cartier are unique boutiques that peddle wares ranging from Caribbean coffee to colorful Turkish imports. There is also a growing number of art galleries.

Shopping in Charlotte Amalie

Main street.

The original St. Thomas shopping experience is found in downtown Charlotte Amalie, where old sugar warehouses and 18th- and 19th-century townhouses have been converted into a bustling shopping district. Cobblestone walks, old stone walls, and classic West Indian architecture add to the enjoyment of being downtown. Don’t miss Royal Dane Mall, Palm Passage, or Hibiscus Alley, narrow alleys that offer ambience in spades.

Main Street is the main artery of Charlotte Amalie’s shopping district. Stores open big double doors to the street, expelling tantalizing breezes of high-powered air-conditioning (not very energy-efficient, but it’s good for sales). Once a fixture of the shopping district, loudmouthed barkers have gone mute, thanks to a law banning them, but the most enterprising entrepreneurs still find ways to badger passersby.

More than the shopkeepers, however, it is your fellow shoppers who steal the show. Cruise ships disgorge visitors of all types and stripes on St. Thomas, and most find themselves here—strolling along a Main Street glutted with taxis and crammed with tourists. Some shoppers appear merely out for a stroll, others have a distinct sense of purpose. For a bargain-hunting shopper or expert haggler, Charlotte Amalie is a trove of opportunity. The best way to haggle is to simply suggest a lower price than what’s posted and begin negotiating. Haggling is most successful at the smaller, family-owned shops. At large name-brand stores, you may receive a small discount.

Most Main Street shops open by 9 a.m. and close between 4 and 5 p.m. These shops cater to tourists, and on days when no cruise ship is in town you’re likely to find most shuttered, especially on Sunday.

It is simply impossible to overlook the major retailers on Main Street. Diamonds International (340/774-1516), Little Switzerland (340/776-4110), Cartier (30 Main St., 284/774-1590), and Cardow Jewelers (340/776-1140) are the biggest names in jewelry. Dozens of other shops specialize in jewelry: Okidanokh Goldcraft (Palm Passage and Royal Dane Mall, 340/775-3060) features unique work by designer Abel Fabri, and H. Stern (32 and 8 Main St., 340/776-1146) features the light, airy designs of Brazil.

Boolchands (340/776-0302) and Royal Caribbean (340/776-4110) have a wide selection of cameras, other electronics, and watches.

Liquor and Perfume

Thanks to the island’s duty-free status, liquor prices on St. Thomas are about half those of the U.S. mainland. Airline rules limiting liquids in carry-on luggage have complicated life for travelers, but shops will pack your purchases in boxes suitable to be checked. (Alternatively, buy your liquor at Caribbean Host (340/776-4000) inside the departure gate at Cyril E. King Airport and carry it on.)

A.H. Riise (37 Main St., 340/776-2303), which was founded in 1838 as the island’s apothecary, is today the biggest name in downtown liquor, but it also sells perfume and a smattering of fine art prints. Dynasty Dazzlers (No. 1 Main St., 340/776-8935) also specializes in liquor and perfume.

For island crafts, visit Native Arts and Crafts (488 Tolbod Gade, 340/777-1153, Mon.–Fri. 9 a.m.–4 p.m., Sat. 9 a.m.–2 p.m.), a cooperative for local artisans next to Vendor’s Plaza. Here you’ll find locally made lace, dolls, woodwork, decorative arts, and music.

Gallery St. Thomas (Palm Passage, 340/777-6363) features works by dozens of local and regional artists, ranging from contemporary pieces to traditional island scenery. The gallery sells paintings, wood sculpture, ceramics and glass, metal sculpture, and photography, as well as prints and reproductions.

The Jonna White Gallery (A.H. Riise Mall, 340/774-1201) sells colorful graphic prints.

The vibrant paintings and intricate etchings of artist David Hill are available from the David Hill Gallery (Royal Dane Mall, 340/714-4400). Lucinda O’Connell’s abstract watercolors, as well as her charming landscapes inspired by the islands, are featured at Cloud Nine Studio (No. 1 Norre Gade, 340/514-2432), near the St. Thomas synagogue. The artist-in-residence at the Ritz-Carlton, O’Connell also teaches watercolor classes for visitors.

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Down Island Traders (Waterfront and 14A Norre Gade, 340/775-7019) stocks an appealing selection of Caribbean arts, crafts, spices, and more.

The rich smell of chocolate draws shoppers into The Belgian Chocolate Factory (A.H. Riise Mall, 340/777-5247), which sells boxes of high-end imported chocolate, as well as hot chocolate, coffee, cookbooks, and other foodrelated items.

Mr. Tablecloth, Inc. (6 Main St., 340/774-4343) is an institution that stocks a dazzling array of tablecloths, placemats, lace, and embroidered accessories, plus nightgowns, baby clothes, and lovely lace parasols, ideal for the St. Thomas sun.

There are more and more shops selling clothes. Cariloha (Grand Galleria, 340/774-5506) has a collection of clothing manufactured from bamboo. Look like you just came back from vacation with clothes from Fresh Produce (A.H. Riise Mall, 340/774-0807), a store stocking tropical-toned sundresses, tops, bathing attire, and accessories. Get shorts, tops, sunglasses, and hats to pull off a surfer look at Billabong (5120 Dronnigens Gade, 340/774-4010, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon.–Sat.).

Zora of St. Thomas (5040 Norre Gade, 340/774-2559) has been making custom leather sandals for men and women since 1962. Devoted followers swear by the unbeatable comfort of sandals designed especially for your feet. Zora, located across from F.D.R. Park, also sells handmade canvas bags, locally blown glass, and jewelry.

Vendor’s Plaza

Located at the eastern end of downtown, next to Emancipation Gardens, is an open-air tourist market called Vendor’s Plaza. This is where to come for cheap goods: colorful sarongs, St. Thomas T-shirts, jewelry, and handbags. You can also usually find people offering to plait your hair into dreadlock-like braids. The plaza is “open” on days when a cruise ship is in port but deserted on other days.

Shopping in Yacht Haven

Lying between downtown and Havensight, Yacht Haven Grande (9100 Port of Sale, 340/774-5030) is a marina and outdoor mall, with restaurants, boutiques, and condos. Catering to well-heeled visitors off of visiting mega-yachts, Yacht Haven has the island’s most upscale shopping. Shops here are generally open 10 a.m.–5 p.m. daily.

Retailers include Coach, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, bebe, and Bulgaria . At How About Your Pet you can purchase all manner of toys, clothing, and cutesy accessories for your dog, and Kool Kidz sells children’s clothing, including a wide selection of tutus. Bella Vera (340/774-0374) is a small boutique specializing in name-brand women’s clothing from cocktail dresses to jeans.

Shopping in Crown Bay

Located alongside the Crown Bay cruise ship dock, Crown Bay Center (161 Sub Base, 340/774-2132) is an enclosed mall, with many of the same retailers you will find downtown and at Havensight. There are also small kiosks selling T-shirts and other souvenirs. If Crown Bay is your port of entry, or if it’s raining or otherwise unpleasant outside, this is a good place to shop.

Shopping in Havensight

Havensight is the outdoor shopping mall next to the West Indian Company cruise ship dock, the main cruise ship dock on St. Thomas. Havensight has a well-worn but comfortable ambience and many of the same retailers as Main Street. Shops here are generally open 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Monday–Sunday, but some close without notice if there’s no cruise ship at the dock, especially on Sundays. Dockside Books (Building 6, 340/774-4837) is the island’s best bookstore, with a fine collection of new releases, reference, and local authors.

Shopping in Red Hook and the East End

Red Hook’s American Yacht Harbor offers an alternative to jewelry and perfume stores. Stylish island-style apparel and a wide selection of Crocs, Teva, and other brands of warm-weather footwear are in stock at Keep Left (340/775-9964). For silver jewelry and lightweight linen clothing, stop at Elizabeth Jane’s (340/779-1595). Pirates of Red Hook (340/775-5595) has a fun selection of pirate and nautical-themed gifts as well as exclusive jewelry manufactured from authentic artifacts off historic shipwrecks. For incense, wall hangings, and the island’s most extensive selection of bongs, make your way to Rhiannons (340/779-1877). Surfers and skateboarders can buy equipment (plus clothing to look the part) at Evolution Surf and Skate (340/715-0012), home of the “Red Hook Low Life” T-shirts that are all the rage.

Shopping in Tillet Gardens

Located in Estate Tutu and surrounded by colorful murals, Tillett Gardens (Anna’s Retreat, 340/779-1929) is an arts community named for its founder, silkscreen artist Jim Tillett. Tillett founded the arts center on an old Danish farm in the 1960s. Today, the surrounding area has evolved into a busy shopping district, but Tillett Gardens is still a quiet oasis. It is home to a half dozen artists’ studios and galleries, including Ridvan Studio (340/776-0901), a working clay studio specializing in raku wall sculptures, and FStop (340/626-0666), a photography studio featuring the work of former Virgin Islands Daily News photographer Steve Rockstein, whose contemporary compositions feature scenes from New York and the Virgin Islands. Look for Tillet Gardens opposite Four Winds shopping plaza, near Tutu Mall.

Susanna Henighan Potter

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Havensight Shopping Mall

• Yacht Haven Grande
• Crown Bay Center
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Right on the Cruise Ship Dock, a convenient, less crowded way to go shopping for the duty free purchases that you may be looking for. All of the major retailers have well stocked stores with the same merchandise and prices as downtown. And if you make a purchase in a Havensight Merchants' Association Member store, your purchases will be 100% guaranteed! Look for the Association logo on the doors of the member merchants. Plenty of Parking!

Information courtesy of St. Thomas this Week

CAPTAIN'S CORNER

Leading Souvenir Company since 1976 Ship Models, Silver & Larimar Jewelry, Sea Shells & Sea Craft, Resort Wear, T-Shirts, Hats, Beach Towels. Magnets, Key Chains, Gifts, Coffee, Teas, Spices, Rum Cakes, Spices, and MORE ! (340) 774-8435

Dynasty Dazzlers

Dynasty Dazzlers Everything you've ever dreamed of from exquisite jewelry and watches, designer fragrances and the finest liquor brands al in one luxurious setting conveniently located bothin the heart of the Main Street shopping district and in Havensight Mall adjacent to the cruise ship dock. Havensight Mall Building #1 St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands Tel. (340) 776-8935 Toll Free 1-800-225-7052 Main Street Downtown St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands Tel. (340) 774-6520 Toll Free 1-888-255-3935

A.H. RIISE LIQUORS AND TOBACCO

Showcasing Sweeping Vistas Of The Charlotte Amalie Harbor And Overlooking A Secluded Beach, The Marriott Frenchman's Reef & Morning Star Resort In St. Thomas, Virgin Islands, Promises An

Royal Caribbean

Largest camera store in St. Thomas. Come and choose from the latest in Digital Cameras. We also carry the best in fine Swiss watches and designer jewelry. 776-8890

A.H. RIISE PERFUMES AND COSMETICS

Largest selection of fragrances, cosmetics and skin care at substantial duty- and tax- free savings. Beautiful gift sets and great gift-with-purchase offers. 776-2303 ext. 157

OMNI JEWELERS Fine Jewelry

Large selection of Loose Diamonds, Tanzanite, 14KT & 18KT Jewelry with Precious and Semi-Precious Jewels. Specializing in rare Gemstones, Alexandrite, Brand Name Watches and Linens for all your needs (340) 774-8866

• Duty Free Shopping

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St. Thomas Beach Guide

St. Thomas has over 40 major beaches along its sun-drenched coasts. There are strands with crystal blue water and swaying coconut trees where a beach bum can enjoy a lazy-lazy day. For more active beach goers there are sandy coves with activities like windsurfing and kayaking. Some shores are rugged and rocky offering beauty, solitude and the opportunity to daydream about castaway fantasies. And there are widely popular bay-like beaches with amenities such as restaurants, rest rooms, chair rentals and complete water sports centers offering a variety of rental equipment .

St. Thomas Weddings / Romance

DID YOU KNOW THAT... Many couples are opting to save the money (not to mention the stress and hard work) of a big wedding at home by escaping to a Caribbean island for a combination wedding/honeymoon. Upon their return, they can share the event by showing the video and photographs at an informal reception. All the islands are beautiful and, on some, weddings have become a major promotional tool. So why should you choose St. Thomas above others?

Moving To St. Thomas

St. Thomas, one of the three United States Virign Islands, along with St. Croix and St. John, St. Thomas is one of the most beautiful island destinations in the world, dressed with powdery beaches and sun-drenched weather. St. Thomas is located in the Lesser Antilles, 1,600 miles south, south east of New York City; 1,100 east, southeast of Miami; 70 miles of San Juan. St. Thomas and its nearby neighbor St. John, lay between the Atlantic and the Caribbean.

St. Thomas Cruise Ship Arrival

St. Thomas has two cruise ports - - The West India Company Dock (almost universally referred to as Havensight) and Crown Bay. Both are located on the south side of the island not far from Charlotte Amalie. Generally, the ships of Carnival Cruise Lines, Norwegian Cruise Line, Celebrity Cruises, and Royal Caribbean (except Oasis of the Seas and Allure of the Seas) dock at Havensight. Cunard, Princess, Holland America and Oasis and Allure typically dock at Crown Bay. This can change depending on the number of ships in port. Deeper draft ships such as Queen Mary 2, Oasis and Allure are required to dock at Crown Bay.

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Things To Do In St. Croix

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●Dive a wall that drops over 13,000 feet 

●Dive a reef that is the largest living reef of any Caribbean Island 

●Dive five wrecks that are within 100 yards of each other 

●Dive a pier

Did you know... Shopping in St. Croix is a sight-seeing tour in itself! Quaint shops are tucked in historic buildings made of cut coral, molasses mortar, and Danish bricks brought as ballast on the trading ships of the 1700 and 1800s! Interesting shaded courtyards in these restored buildings house shopping arcades. Exploring is fun - there is treasure at every turn! Click here for our Shopping Duty Free Section.

The Shops at Yacht Haven Grande

Top ways to experience The Shops at Yacht Haven Grande and nearby attractions

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The Shops at Yacht Haven Grande - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (2024)

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• France – IGY Sete Marina
• France – IGY Vieux-Port de Cannes
• Italy – Cala di Volpe Mooring
• Italy – IGY Portisco Marina
• Italy – Marina Di Porto Cervo
• LONDON – ST. KATHARINE DOCKS
• Spain – IGY Ibiza Marina
• Spain – IGY Malaga Marina
• St. Lucia – Rodney Bay Marina
• St. Maarten – Simpson Bay Marina
• St. Maarten – Yacht Club Isle De Sol
• St. Thomas, USVI – American Yacht Harbor
• St. Thomas, USVI – Yacht Haven Grande
• Turks & Caicos – Blue Haven Marina
• MANHATTAN, NY – NORTH COVE MARINA AT BROOKFIELD PLACE
• Miami, FL – Yacht Haven Grande at Island Gardens
• St. Petersburg, FL – Maximo Marina
• Colombia – Marina Santa Marta
• Costa Rica – Marina Bahia Golfito
• Mexico – Marina Cabo San Lucas
• Panama – Red Frog Beach Marina

YACHT MANAGEMENT

• France – IGY Vieux-Port de Cannes
• Italy - Cala di Volpe Mooring
• Italy – Marina Di Porto Cervo
• LONDON – ST. KATHARINE DOCKS
• Spain – IGY Ibiza Marina
• Turks & Caicos – Blue Haven Marina
• MANHATTAN, NY – NORTH COVE MARINA AT BROOKFIELD PLACE
• Portland, ME – Fore Points Marina
• United States Yacht Haven Grande Miami at Island Gardens North Cove Marina at Brookfield Place Yacht Haven Grande USVI American Yacht Harbor Maximo Marina IGY Savannah Harbor Marina VIEW ALL MARINAS
• Carribean Blue Haven Marina Yacht Haven Grande USVI Rodney Bay Marina Yacht Club Isle De Sol Simpson Bay Marina American Yacht Harbor Red Frog Beach Island Marina Marina Santa Marta VIEW ALL MARINAS
• Latin America Marina Bahia Golfito Red Frog Beach Island Marina Marina Cabo San Lucas Marina Santa Marta VIEW ALL MARINAS
• Europe Cala di Volpe Mooring IGY Vieux-Port de Cannes IGY Portisco Marina Marina Di Porto Cervo IGY Sete Marina IGY Malaga Marina St. Katharine Docks IGY Ibiza Marina VIEW ALL MARINAS

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NOW AVAILABLE FOR EVENTS – HARBOR 360 IN CHARLOTTE AMALIE

YACHT HAVEN GRANDE USVI

Charlotte amalie.

• Tel: +1 340-774-9500
• Tel: +1 954-960.3975
• VHF: Channel 16 & 10
• 5304 Yacht Haven Grande
• St. Thomas, US Virgin Islands 00802
• Monday–Friday 8AM-5PM
• Saturday & Sunday 8AM-5PM
• Contact us for important dates
• 44 ° F ( 6 ° C) Sunrise: 6:55 AM
• 44 ° F ( 6 ° C) Sunset: 6:55 AM
• Wind 6-9 ft
• Wave Height 6-9 ft

Specifications

• 46 Total Berths 46 Megayacht Berths Max Length: 656' (200m) Max Draft: 25' (7.6m) Max Beam: No Restrictions
• 30 amp, 50 amp
• 100 amp SP, 100 amp 3P
• 480v 100 amp 3P
• 24hr Gated Dock Security

• On-site Customs & Immigration
• Lighted Tennis Courts
• Wi-Fi Connectivity
• Crew Lounge
• Private Shower Facilities
• Lagoon Style Pool
• Beach Volleyball Court
• On-Site Shopping & Dining
• High Speed Fuel Pumps
• Full Service Marina
• In-Slip Fueling
• On-Site Provisioning
• Waste Disposal Services
• Laundry Services
• ISPS Compliant Facility
• Business Center

Directory & Local Businesses

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Brian Deher

Regional Director Caribbean and Central America

Over 13 years with IGY Marinas

Contact Information

Marina manager.

+1 340-774-9500

RESERVATIONS / CONCIERGE

After hours, police / fire / ambulance.

About Marina

On behalf of the management and staff of Yacht Haven Grande, we would like to welcome you to St. Thomas. Whether this is your first visit to our beautiful island, or you’ve made St. Thomas your home in the past, we hope that the information here will make your arrival and stay a memorable one.

Situated in St. Thomas’ scenic Charlotte Amalie Harbor, Yacht Haven Grande plays to an impressive array of the world’s finest megayachts as well as sailing, sport fishing, and pleasure crafts. A nautical paradise, Yacht Haven Grande offers easy access to the cerulean waters of the Virgin Islands and our staff is always available to assist with whatever you may require. Yacht Haven Grande, located within walking distance to historic downtown Charlotte Amalie, is complimented by numerous shopping, dining, and entertainment options that will cater to your every need.

If there is anything that the IGY team can do to make your stay with us more memorable and relaxing, please don’t hesitate to ask! Our staff is here to make sure you have an enjoyable stay in St. Thomas.

Phil Blake, Marina General Manager

Located a short walk away from the cruise ship dock, the Shops at Yacht Haven Grande host an array of boutiques, restaurants and services within a 120,000 square foot duty-free retail village.

TAKE A LOOK AT ALL THAT IS OFFERED AT THIS BEAUTIFUL PROPERTY HERE!

Arrival information details.

Advanced reservations are strongly recommended at Yacht Haven Grande, St. Thomas. We cannot guarantee available berthing for guests arriving without a reservation.

When feasible, we request an estimated time of arrival 24hr in advance so we can be fully prepared for your arrival and minimize any inconvenience. Upon arrival into the Charlotte Amalie Bay, contact the marina office on VHF Channel 16 or 10 to obtain a slip assignment. A skilled dock attendant will report to the slip to assist with docking, line handling, and connections. Once comfortably settled, we ask that you visit our marina office to check-in. The staff will answer any questions you have.

Upon departure, we request you contact the marina office 1-2 hours prior to departure to ensure all items are in order. A receipt can be provided at the marina office or emailed upon request to the email address provided at the time of check-in. If all items are in order, please hail the marina office on VHF Channel 16 if you would like assistance with disconnection and lines.

Early Check-in / Late Check-out

If a slip is occupied after 4:30 pm on the day of your scheduled departure, an additional night’s dockage will be charged to your account.

We will do our absolute best to accommodate your requests whenever possible. In most cases, if your slip is available prior to 4:30 pm on the day of your arrival, or after 10:30 am on the day of your departure, we will allow you to remain in the slip at no additional charge. Prior arrangements must be made with the marina office for early arrival or delayed departure in order to avoid unnecessary charges.

Temporary Slips

In the event an early check-in and/or late check-out is unable to be accommodated in your currently slip, we will try to accommodate by making another slip available until such time your slip is available or you are ready to depart the marina.

In the event a temporary slip is made available to you, and you do not relocate the vessel, the marina reserves the right to charge you two times (2x’s) the original daily rate for each night you occupy the temporary slip.

This is necessary as at times, the marina operates at full occupancy and failure to relocate the vessel could negatively affect other guests.

CANCELLATION POLICY

While Yacht Haven Grande, St. Thomas does not issue refunds, in certain circumstances, the marina can hold deposits paid for use up until the following October 31st. Deposits will be forfeited at the start of the new season on November 1st.

Please note:  Cancellation policies are subject to change. Please refer to your reservation confirmation or contact the marina office direct for confirmation of cancellation policy. Cancellation requests must be submitted directly to the marina. Any cancellation requests received through the IGY Marinas website are not considered proper cancellation.

Contact & Hours of Operation

Customs & Immigration Office

Phone: +1 340-774-2510

Hours of Operation: Mon. – Fri. 8:00 am to 5:00 pm Appointment Required

Website: USVI Customs Office Website

Customs & Immigration Information

• Please note: We do our best to ensure this information is up-to-date, however, this is strictly for informational purposes only. We recommend reviewing the Customs and Immigration site for the destination requirements.

ROAM Kiosk – Roaming Off-site Arrival – Mobile

• Yacht Haven Grande, St. Thomas is the proud home of the Customs & Border patrol kiosk dedicated to the new ROAM app. The ROAM app now allows vessels to report their arrivals and clear Customs from the vessels utilizing a smart device. In most cases, an in-person visit is not necessary as the CBP officer can use the camera on the smart device to see what is needed. Guests can download the app (CBP ROAM) in the Apple store or Google Play, and set up a .gov account. The YHG kiosk will utilize a guest login that will allow access to the app for guests without a device or app. Please note: the ROAM service is not available to commercial vessels, nor to those that have non-American crew aboard (i.e. B1/B2 visa holders).

By prior reservation only, Aa Customs & Immigration Office is located on-site next to the marina office at Yacht Haven Grande, St. Thomas. Two CBP slots are generally available: 11am, and 2pm. To join one of these slots, please contact the YHG marina office at least 24 hours in advance of arrival, and supply your last port of call, and number of souls aboard in order to make a booking. Those reaching the port of entry after closing hours are required to raise a quarantine flag and report in the next morning.

In order to clear in and out of the St. Thomas Immigration Office, you will need the following:

• Vessel registration documents
• Vessel clearance documentation from the last port of call
• Copy of passenger/crew list (form I-418)
• Passports of all crew and guests
• Copy of the Ship’s Registry
• Vessel entrance or clearance statement on CPB Form 1300

If you are arriving into the US Virgin Islands from a United States domestic location, including the mainland United States, the US Virgin Islands, or Puerto Rico, and have a US Flag and crew, no special immigration procedures are required.

Safety Equipment Requirements

All vessels cruising the Caribbean waters should have the following safety equipment on-board:

• Functional life-vests for all passengers
• Parachute, orange, and para-rocket flares
• Bell and/or Whistle
• Fire Extinguisher
• First-aid Kit

Cyril E. King Airport (STT) Address: Airport Rd. Charlotte Amalie West, St. Thomas 00802 USVI Phone: +1 340-774-5100 Website:  http://www.viport.com/ceka.html

• Cyril E. King Airport is a public airport located 2 miles west of the central business district of Charlotte Amalie on the island of St. Thomas, US Virgin Islands.

HEALTH / PHARMACY

• Schneider Regional Medical Center +1 340-776-8311 9048 Alton Adams Sr Dr, St Thomas 00802, U.S. Virgin Islands
• Yacht Haven Family Practice +1 340-776-1511 5302 Yacht Haven Grande, Suite 125, St Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands
• Doctor’s Choice Pharmacy +1 340-777-1400 9400 Wheatley Shopping Center Charlotte Amalie St Thomas 00802, U.S. Virgin Islands
• The Medicine Shoppe Pharmacy +1 340-776-1235 9004 Havensight Shopping Mall, St. Thomas, VI 00802

BANKING SERVICES

• St. Thomas Federal Credit Union +1 340-774-1299 5027 Norre Gade, Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas 00802, USVI
• FirstBank Port of Sale +1 340-774-4800 Havensight, St Thomas 00802, USVI
• Western Union +1 340-774-4046 3 10 St Estate Thomas Charlotte Amalie East St Thomas 00802

POSTAL SERVICES

• FedEx Office Print & Ship Center +1 340-838-7834 Charlotte Amalie West, St Thomas 00802, USVI
• US Postal Service +1 800-275-8777 9846 Estate Thomas, St Thomas 00802, U.S. Virgin Islands
• DHL Express +1 340-774-4066 Charlotte Amalie West, St Thomas 00802, USVI
• UPS +1 340-776-1700 4001 Alcohens Plaza Ste.9,Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas 00802, U.S. Virgin Islands

Inspire Giving through You – February 23, 2019

Bertha c. boschulte middle school.

Yacht Haven Grande, St. Thomas and American Yacht Harbor teamed up with My Brother’s Workshop to support a local middle school. Marina teams and volunteers split into groups and assisted in the clean-up of storm debris left over from Hurricanes Irma and Maria. Five full loads of debris were disposed of. In addition, teams comprised of employees, local businesses, owners, captains and crew participated in helping The Bertha C. Boschulte Middle School rejuvenate some of its outdoor area for the children. They built new picnic tables, benches and planter boxes.

If you were unable to attend our day of community service, but would still like to help, please  contact us for further information regarding donations and where to send them.

Our number one goal is to work together inspiring others through the act of giving back our time, support efforts, accessible resources, goods and services.

Inspire Giving through You – February 10, 2018

Ivanna eudora kean high school.

For the 2018 “Inspire Giving through You” initiative Yacht Haven Grande, St. Thomas and American Yacht Harbor gathered volunteers comprised of employees, owners, captains and crew to participate in rebuilding the island of St. Thomas. Ivanna Aurora Kean High School’s Marine Education Building was devastated by Hurricanes Irma and Maria. Thank you to all that joined us in our efforts to help students return to vital programs in their schools.

If you’re unable to attend our day of community service, but would still like to help, please contact us for further information regarding donations and where to send them.

Inspire Giving through You – February 25, 2017

Uvi water ambassador program.

Thank you to all of our volunteers, who participated in the 2016 and 2017 “Inspire Giving through You” Community Outreach Project. We appreciate your dedication and commitment to make a difference by inspiring others to give back to their communities.

Yacht Haven Grande St. Thomas, American Yacht Harbor and the many volunteers worked together in support of the UVI Water Ambassador Program in St. Thomas. The program works in direct correlation with the Addelita Cancryn Junior High School teaching students skills in Hydrology. These young entrepreneurials learn water safety, water quality testing, and study ways to improve the environment to impact the water quality. The students also learn organic farming techniques and the produced goods are utilized in the school’s lunch program and sold at the Yacht Haven Grande, St. Thomas Farmer’s Market to raise money for the program.

On February 25th, 2017, the team of volunteers assisted in the construction of a Hydrologic Learning Center.

Tasks Completed:

• Construction of raised garden beds
• Construction of green house
• Construction and installation of work tables
• Plant trees

Inspire Giving through You – February 20, 2016

St. thomas marine vocational program.

Thank you to all of our volunteers, who participated in the “Inspire Giving through You” Community Outreach Project. We appreciate your dedication and commitment to make a difference by inspiring others to give back to their communities.

For more information or to donate to the organization directly,

• St. Thomas Community Aquatic Center
• USVI Marine Vocational Program:  Click here

48 volunteers and IGY staff/executives assisted with restorations of The St. Thomas Swimming Association’s community pool and The Boys and Girls Club. IGY crews contributed their time to cleaning and preparing the pool deck of the Aquatic Training Center with a fresh coat of paint. Additional efforts were directed to improving the Boys & Girls Club, painting the exterior and interior of the facilities, installing ceiling fans and light fixtures, deep cleaning of the kitchen and organization of supplies.

The St. Thomas Swimming Association is a non-profit organization committed to providing and promoting competitive and recreational swimming and water safety programs to the St. Thomas community.The Community Aquatic Center, frequently used by the USVI Marine Vocational Program. The USVI Marine Vocational Program is a non-profit organization dedicated to providing the youth of the Virgin Islands with a career path into the marine and hospitality industry.

• Painting of pool deck, restrooms and interior of Aquatic Center
• Painting of interior of Boys & Girls Club
• Installation of new ceiling fans and light fixtures (B&G Club)
• Deep cleaning of kitchen
• Organization of supplies
• Removal 3 truck loads of garbage

Please contact us for further information regarding donations and where to send them.

Yacht Haven Grande, St. Thomas Marina Rules

• The following are the rules and regulations for the operation of the Marina. Compliance with these rules and regulations is a condition of use for all vessels, their owners, captains and crews, as well as all guests, invitees or customers at the Marina.
• The Rules of the Road and the Navigation Laws of the United States shall control all vessels at, departing or approaching the Marina.
• Once at the slip or dock at the marina, a vessel shall immediately come under the jurisdiction of the Dock Master of the Marina. Only vessels in good condition, and under their own power, shall be admitted to the slip and berthing area of the Marina.
• The parties agree that Marina does not accept the vessel for storage, is not a bailee, and will not be responsible for any damage or loss to the vessel or its tackle or to any person visiting the vessel, unless caused by an affirmative act of negligence of Marina. However, during the absence of Owner, if Marina finds the vessel insecure or in danger, Marina is authorized, but not required, to take temporary action to protect the vessel and necessary and reasonable costs therefore shall be charged against the vessel.
• Pets are permitted only with the prior permission of the Marina, and only if they do not disturb others. Boat owners, captains, crew or their guests are strictly liable for any damage caused by any pets. No animal shall be permitted on the Marina properties, unless leashed or otherwise secured.
• Refuse shall not be thrown or allowed to fall overboard and all garbage is to be deposited in the appropriate containers. No oil, spirits, inflammable liquids or oily bilges shall be discharged into marina waters. All laws, rules and regulations with regard to marine sanitary devices shall be strictly complied with. All vessels are financially responsible for any clean-up costs for any discharge described above or other illegal discharge.
• Noise shall be kept to a minimum at all times and all owners and captains are requested to use discretion in operating engines, generators, radios, television, power tools and the like so as to minimize disturbance of others using the marina as well as marina neighbors.
• Swimming, diving and fishing are not permitted from the marina or from vessels at the marina.
• No vehicles, including bicycles, shall be parked on or ridden on the docks. Parking of vehicles on Marina property may be permitted at the discretion of the Dock Master on a space available basis.
• Boat owners and captains shall not store or allow to be stored any supplies, materials, accessories or debris on any Marina property, including the docks or piers. Failure to comply with this provision shall cause the removal of any such property by the Dock Master. No painting, sanding, scraping or repairing of any vessel or equipment belonging to any vessel shall be permitted on the Marina property without the specific prior written consent of the Dock Master. The extent of any repair or maintenance to be undertaken at the Marina shall be solely at the discretion of the Dock Master and any such repair or maintenance permitted shall be wholly at the risk of the owner/vessel undertaking such repairs.
• Laundry shall not be hung on boats, docks or piers at the marina.
• No signs shall be displayed aboard any vessel at the marina without the prior written consent of the Dock Master. Owner understands that the Marina is a commercial endeavor and, therefore, Vessel Owner hereby agrees to refrain from any commercial activities competitive with the interest of the Marina on the premises of the Marina. Vessel Owner agrees not to operate boat rentals or charter parties or any commercial activities from the Marina without the prior written permission of the Marina.
• The use of charcoal broiler, cookers or any other open-fueled appliance is strictly forbidden aboard any vessel at the marina or on any property belonging to the Marina.
• Potable water is available at each slip. Each slip occupant is responsible for water consumed from the assigned tap based upon the Marina’s established rates.
• Vessel Owner may not, and shall not have any right, to assign or transfer in whole or in part any rights under the Agreement. However, Marina shall have the right to use the slip for transient docking whenever the vessel is to be removed overnight or longer.
• The dockage day starts at 1:00 p.m. Checkout time is 11:00 a.m. the following day. Any vessel occupying a slip after 11:00 a.m. will be charged dockage for that night. Late departures can be arranged upon request, with the Dock Master.
• Violations of the rules and regulations of the Marina, failure to comply with the reasonable and proper requests of the management, indecorous conduct by the owner or captain of any vessel, or their guests, that might cause injury to another, cause damage to property, or adversely impact upon the reputation of the Marina shall be cause for the immediate removal from the marina of the vessel and/or individual(s) in question.

DESTINATION USVI

"Thank you so much for all you do for us and for the industry . I believe you all are the glue around here!"

December 2021

"I adore Yacht Haven Grande! They are amazing, hard working, professional, friendly, etc. Job well done!"

November 2021

"Jamie, Teresa, Melissa, and Earl have always made my say as enjoyable as possible"

"Phil Blake is fantastic, I have never seen a marina manager be so hands on assisting on the docks and his attention to guest relations is a huge asset to the marina. Teresa White and the entire office team were extremely helpful in the lead up to, during and even after our stay. Assisting with dockage, customs details, local info and Covid tests. Every member of the dock team were great at their jobs and all around great to work with. The pride they take in the marina is evident in the fantastic job they do taking care of the area and all of the guests. They are always a pleasure to deal with and somehow find the time to greet everyone on the docks."

February 2021

"The best marina in the Virgin Islands by far"

Itineraries

3 DAY ITINERARY

The rich Caribbean weather welcomes many outside activities including the onsite resort styled amenities such as our sparkling lagoon styled pool.

5 DAY ITINERARY

There is so much to do with 5 days in Charlotte Amalie and we encourage you to enjoy the sites and activites on and around the island of St. Thomas.

ANNUAL EVENTS

St. Thomas' island culture and community hold many annual events throughout the island. From sidewalk shops to festivals, each event has its own special meaning.

LOCAL ATTRACTIONS

Founded in 1681 by Danish settlers, Charlotte Amalie still has some signs of the bustling colonial life that once exitsed here offering a virtually limitless range of sights and adventures.

IGY Marinas values your feedback. Please fill out a survey to share your experience.

RESTAURANTS AND SHOPS

From breakfast at the quayside, all the way to dinner on a rooftop terrace, menus range from fresh fish or pizza to traditional Sardinian cuisine that are also available for takeout or delivery onboard. The supermarket, conveniently located on the dock, specialty shop and liquor store offer a wide selection that are available for delivery to your vessel.

BWA YACHTING

BWA Yachting is a worldwide yacht agency and yachting services provider formed to support captains, managers and crew, making their lives easier, assisting with the increasing demands of managing a modern superyacht. Our global office network stretches throughout the Mediterranean, Northern Europe, the Caribbean and the Americas, providing a unique and seamless experience, wherever our clients are cruising. The BWA Yachting service can be anything from planning a complete trip, saving you time and a lot of hassle, with just one point of reference to the handling of a single port call or last minute concierge request. That’s everything from clearance procedures to berthing reservations, bunkering, provisioning, fiscal advice, logistics, technical assistance, travel arrangements, and more.

www.bwayachting.com Tel.+377 93 500 277 [email protected]

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Best Shopping and Shops in St. Thomas (USVI) Cruise Port

The top shops and brands for cruise travelers to St Thomas: jewelry, watches, souvenirs, perfumes, cosmetics, liquor and tobacco

By: Editor-in-Chief Update: June 1, 2023

St Thomas is well known in the cruising community for being one of the best ports for shopping.

Some will say that St Thomas is the best cruise port for shopping considering that U.S. Residents have a duty-free allowance of $1,600 per person.

But besides this allowance, it is also true that St. Thomas has a fantastic number of shops. The cruise ship passenger will find the largest concentration of shops in the historical center of Charlotte Amalie.

The shops and the two cruise terminals-docks

Next to the two cruise ship docks - Havensight and Crown Bay - you will also find some of the top names and brands. Next to the Havensight Dock, the cruise passenger will find high-end design shops along the wonderful promenade of the upscale Marina that is the Yacht Haven Grande.

Alleys and Passages

Although many top shops are in the Main Street of Charlotte Amalie - aka Dronningens Gade - don't feel intimidated to explore the alleys and passages between this street and the waterfront. These Alleys are in reality very friendly quaint pedestrian malls where you will also find shaded areas to rest, have a light fare, a coffee or a cold refreshing drink.

1. A.H.Riise Mall

Editor Points: Located in a series of beautifully restored 19th century Danish warehouses in downtown Charlotte Amalie, the A.H. Riise Mall is a quaint pedestrian mall comprised of shops and boutiques offering liquor, fine tobacco, clothing, fragrances, skin care, cosmetics and the most sought-after luxury jewelry and watches. For lunch or quick bite the cruise ship passenger will find Café Amici (open-air Italian bistro) and Calypso Café (sandwich and coffee shop). The Rolex boutique and the Belgian Chocolate Factory shouldn't be missed.

Brands and Boutiques: Chanel, L'Occitane, Rolex, Diamonds International, Little Switzerland, Swatch, Rado, Lladro, Swarovski, Hot Look, Penha Duty - Free. Website: www.ahriise.com

A.H.Riise Mall Entrance

Photo © IQCruising.com

2. Hibiscus Alley

Editor Points: Next to the A.H.Riise Mall, the Hibiscus Alley is another quaint pedestrian passage between the Main Street and the Waterfront lined with shops and where the cruise ship passenger will find Greengo’s Cantina- one of the best Mexican food restaurants in St Thomas - USVI

What: Caribongo, Royal Caribbean, Klassic Jewelry, Cardow Jewelery. Greengo’s Cantina.

Hibiscus Alley Entrance

Top Shops and Brands - A to Z

3. Breitling (Time Pieces)

Editor Points: One of the top Swiss watchmakers specializing in technical timepieces. The mechanical chronograph movement is renowned for precision. The elegant style with large faces is designed for readability in its two main markets - diving and aviation - and includes famous models like Avenger, Navitimer, Superocean or the Transocean Chronograph GMT.

Where: Main Street Website: www.breitling.com

Breitling Shop - Charlotte Amalie

Innovative Italian luxury design: watches, accessories, jewelry, leather goods, and fragrances.

Where: Yacht Haven Grande What: Luxury Accessories Website: www.bulgari.com

Bulgari - Yacht Have

5. Cartier (Luxury Jeweler)

Cartier is a French luxury jeweler and watch manufacturer. The company has a long and distinguished history of serving royalty, as well as stars and celebrities. A pioneer in European luxury watch making, Cartier was at the source of some of the very first wristwatches. The brand is proud of its technical excellence and upholds its reputation as a master watchmaker.

Where: Main Street, Charlotte Amalie. What: Jewelry, Watches, and Accessories. Website: www.cartier.com

Cartier Shop - Charlotte Amalie

One of the best modern American luxury leather goods brand.

Where: Yacht Haven Grande What: Luxury Accessories Website: www.coach.com

Coach - Yacht Haven

Classic luxury Italian heritage and modern style since 1921.

Where: Yacht Haven Grande What: Luxury Accessories Website: www.gucci.com

Gucci - Yacht Haven

8. H.Stern (Brazilian Gems)

The most prestigious Brazilian jewelry designer, using high quality gemstones from Brazil, H. Stern is featured in editorial texts of fashion magazines like Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, W or InStyle. For more than 50 years, H. Stern collection of jewels is set in exquisite, innovative designs with a unique style. With over 230 stores in 30 countries, H. Stern has two shops in St Thomas - USVI

Where: Main Street, Charlotte Amalie and Havensight Mall What: Jewelry and Accessories Website: www.hstern.net

H.Stern shop

9. Hublot (Time Pieces)

When Carlo Crocco created the Hublot watch featuring a gold case and natural rubber strap, in 1980, history was being made. Innovation was the founding principle of Hublot that was further expanded, in 2004, with the launch of the 'Art of Fusion' concept - combining exotic materials like gold and ceramic, tantalum and red gold, or even magnesium and titanium. Hublot blends innovation with classical Swiss watch making tradition in 4 major collections: Big Bang , Classic Fusion, King Power and MP.

Where: Main Street, Charlotte Amalie What: Time Pieces Website: www.hublot.com

Hublot Shop - Charlotte Amalie

10. Louis Vuitton

Luxury French fashion and leather goods brand.

Where: Yacht Haven Grande What: Luxury Accessories Website: www.louisvuitton.com

Louis Vuitton - Yacht Haven

11. Salvatore Ferragamo

One of the World's leaders in the luxury design: shoes, leather goods, clothing, silk products and other accessories.

Where: Yacht Haven Grande What: Luxury Accessories Website: www.ferragamo.com

Salvatore Ferragamo - Yacht Haven

12. TagHeur

Top-quality precision time pieces, lifestyle accessories and eye-wear collection.

Where: Main Street, Charlotte Amalie What: Luxury Watches Website: www.tagheuer.com

TagHeur - Charlotte Amalie

13. Tiffany & Co. (Unparalleled Reputation)

Editor Points: Over the past two centuries, Tiffany has built an international reputation as a premier jeweler and the ultimate source of gifts for life's most cherished occasions. Whether it's a milestone in the life of a company or a family, or an individual's crowning achievement, Tiffany gifts wrapped in the signature Tiffany Blue Box symbolize the rich heritage and unparalleled reputation Tiffany & Co. has enjoyed as one of America's great institutions.

Where: Main Street, Charlotte Amalie What: Jewelry Website: www.tiffany.com

Tiffany Shop - Charlotte Amalie

Photo: © IQCruising.com

How FREE is Tax Free? St. Thomas is a duty-free port that offers tax breaks to both retailers and also consumers. Hence the lower prices offered by shops in the U.S. Virgin Islands. However, the cruise ship traveler should be aware that there are limitations to the amount of goods that can be taken home. U.S. residents are allowed: $1,600 per person; 5 liters of liquor (residents over 21 years); 5 cartons of cigarettes and 100 cigars (but not from Cuba); island made items and loose gemstones are exempt.

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7 Russia-scented perfumes: Inspired by Winter, Cheburashka, Chekmate and more

The scent of GUM — “Ciel de Gum” by Francis Kurkdjian

French perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, while visiting Moscow, was impressed by the architecture of the legendary Moscow department store on Red Square. In 2013, to mark GUM’s  120th anniversary, he released the “Ciel de Gum” fragrance that’s dedicated to the historical building. According to the main concept, the amber hints are intended to recall the aroma of expensive boutiques; the cinnamon and red pepper chords to evoke the Gastronom No. 1 store; while the woody and floral fragrances tend to immerse the senses in the New Year’s atmosphere of the city’s historic center.

Where to buy: Randewoo , 32,106 rubles ($428) for 70 ml.

The scent of birch sap from Ladanika

Spring, the first green leaves, and birch sap — this is how the creative perfume project, Ladanika, describes the new fragrance from perfumer Elena Markova that was released in March 2021. The composition includes white musk, aldehydes,as well as  tar and grass, which promise to invigorate you with “the life-giving energy of early spring” all year round.

Where to buy: Ladanika , 3,950 rubles ($53) for 15 ml.

The scent of Soviet cartoons from Soyuzmultfilm

The aroma of honey and caramelized milk (think of Winnie the Pooh) and buns with raspberry jam (think of Karlsson-on-the-Roof, the fairy tale by Swedish author Astrid Lindgren).

The watery and earthy aroma with a hint of juniper twigs comes from Hedgehog in the Fog, the cult Soviet cartoon by Yuri Norshtein; while the scent of oranges is inspired by Cheburashka, another popular Soviet cartoon character. They are colognes released by the Soyuzmultfilm studio on the occasion of its 85th anniversary. The fragrances are designed to recreate the atmosphere of a Soviet childhood and the popular cartoons of that era.

Where to buy: Library of Aromas , 1,950 rubles ($26) for 30 ml.

The scent of Siberian winter — “Russian Leather” from Memo Paris

A -50°C winter, a snowy pine forest, a herd of reindeer, and the sun’s winter rays and snowflakes melting on the skin — these are the associations evoked by the “Russian Leather” collection of French perfumery Memo Paris. Mint, rosemary and cedarwood form the basis of this eau de toilette, followed by the fiery notes of tonka bean, patchouli and sage. The fragrance also contains a new chord, which perfumers called “frozen fougère” (“frozen fern”), reminiscent of the winter forests of Siberia.

Where to Buy: Memo Paris , $300 for 75 ml.

The scent of youthful Moscow — Gosha Rubchinskiy and Comme des Garçons

This fragrance from the popular Russian designer and Japanese fashion house, CDG, is based on angelica root and buchu plant extract. Also present are hints of mandarin, chamomile, styrax, vetiver and patchouli. According to its creators, it recalls the smell of “youth and freedom” in Moscow parks, while the bottle, bearing Rubchinskiy’s name in Cyrillic, recalls the design of the cult Soviet perfume, Krasnaya Moskva (Red Moscow).

Where to Buy: DSML E-Shop , £65 ($73) for 100 ml.

The scent of tea — “Russian Tea” from Masque

Summer evening, a campfire, the smell of wild herbs, raspberries and hot black tea from the thermos: the perfume’s Italian creators were inspired by hiking in the Russian forest and hearty get-togethers around the campfire under the starry sky. The composition is based on raspberries, black pepper, mint, black tea, magnolia, as well as birch, leather and incense.

Where to buy: Amazon , $153 for 35 ml.

The scent of a Russian fighter jet — Su-75 Checkmate

Glass, metal, engine and cockpit all form the basis of this perfume that has the scent of the fifth-generation Russian fighter, Checkmate, which was developed by the state corporation Rostec and the Perfumers’ Guild of Russia.

The perfume’s release is timed to coincide with the international premiere of the aircraft’s prototype at the Dubai Airshow 2021. It contains elements of metal alloys, glass and the leather trim of the cockpit, combined with hints of juniper, patchouli and oak moss.

Alas, the perfume is currently available in a limited edition only, and is not freely on sale.

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Ralph Lauren debuts sailing-inspired fragrance advert

Of all Ralph Lauren’s myriad scents for men , one has always stood out as the classic: Polo Blue. This fragrance has become a house signature because its fresh, understated aroma that perfectly embodies the Ralph Lauren world of traditional American values, outdoor pursuits and gentlemanly sports. To celebrate this olfactory triumph, Ralph Lauren has debuted a new film retelling the story of Polo Blue through the elegant world of yacht racing.

Filmed by iconic fashion photographer Bruce Weber and starring World of Polo ambassador Nacho Figueras, the advert follows a group of men as they compete in a regatta in a yacht named Polo67 . Dressed in royal blue Ralph Lauren polo shirts and pristine white chinos, the men are, of course, victorious, receiving an impressive silver trophy and celebrating with their adorable children.

However, as one of the world’s best polo players, the experience must have been something of a departure from normal life for Argentinian Figueras – not that you would know from the confident way he handles the small racing yacht. To see what we mean, watch the film in full below:

“It reminds me of sitting by the ocean, staring at a clear, blue sky,” said Ralph Lauren of the fragrance, which is inspired by the scent of the ocean and the invigorating blast of fresh air one experiences when sailing. Featuring notes of melon, basil verbena and washed suede, Polo Blue is a light, summery and masculine scent ideal for this season’s aquatic pursuits.

Polo Blue, £43 for 75ml, Ralph Lauren

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Vodka On The Rocks (Moscow City Exclusive)

Original bottle not included with sample/decant purchase. Scent Split rebottles the genuine fragrance into smaller bottles.

• 50ml in Manufacturer's bottle New in Box
• 2ml Glass Spray
• 5ml Glass Spray

Here at Scent Split, we specialize in offering samples and decants of a superlative array of fragrances. What we do is spray, pour, or use sterile pipettes to take perfume from its original large bottle and repackage it in a smaller bottle (we only use brand new sterile glass bottles) so that the consumer can try as many fragrances as they desire before buying a full bottle.

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Vodka on the Rocks by By Kilian is an Aromatic fragrance for women and men .

Vodka On The Rocks is an exclusive fragrance dedicated to the city of Moscow. It’s all about vibes, not booze necessarily. While the perfume is named after the most favored Russian booze, there is no hint of vodka directly. A soothing opening of coriander, icy cardamom, and aldehydes gives birth to rather fresher rhubarb, rose, and muguets. It’s a fascinating perfume of summery ingredients.

Release Year: 2014

Concentration:

Nose: Sidonie Lancesseur

Top notes: Coriander, Aldehydes, Cardamon.

Middle notes: Rhubarb, Lily of the Valley, Pink Rose.

Base notes: Ambroxan, Oakmoss, Sandalwood.

Customer Reviews

Definitely a head turner. The Scent last about 8hrs. It’s one you should have in rotation

Feels like I leveled up since I started wearing this scent.

I love this scent. It’s light and has a decent length. I love using scent split to try out a fragrance before spending a lot of money on a full bottle that I may not like.

It has a nice - generic - all too familiar smell. Meh? Kilian just isn't what it used to be since Estee Lauder took over. I'd skip this one for something more exciting.

I liked it. I would buy more when on sale.

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CHANEL No 5, RED MOSCOW, AND THE SCENT OF TOTALITARIANISM

NO FRAGRANCE, HOWEVER POPULAR OR LUXURIOUS, CAN MASK THE MALODOROUS HISTORIES OF IMPERIAL EUROPE. A NEW BOOK BY HISTORIAN OF TOTALITARIANISM KARL SCHLÖGEL UNRAVELS THE HISTORY OF TWO OF THE WORLD’S BEST-KNOWN PERFUMES – AND THE POLITICAL LEGACIES OF THE WOMEN BEHIND THEM: PARIS’ COCO CHANEL , AND MOSCOW’S POLINA ZHEMCHUZHINA MOLOTOVA , TWO LEADERS OF INDUSTRY, CULTURE, AND STYLE AT OPPOSITE ENDS OF A CONTINENT DIVIDED. THEIR SIGNATURE PRODUCTS – CHANEL NO. 5 AND RED MOSCOW, RESPECTIVELY – SHARE AN UNLIKELY ORIGIN WITH THE ROMANOV DYNASTY, AND A UNIQUE CAPACITY TO EXPOSE HISTORY’S SECRETS.

To make this interview possible, Karl Schlögel invited me to his home, a bright and spacious apartment overlooking the Russian quarter in West Berlin. Only a few hundred meters away is a Russian Orthodox Church, the Resurrection of Christ Cathedral, whose three distinctive towers are sure to be noticed by anyone heading to the nearby Grunewald forest. Schlögel had politely declined the pandemic-compliant walk I had originally suggested. He reasoned, “I am able to think only while sitting or standing.”

So we sit across from each other in two armchairs. Placed on the bookshelf is a small bottle of the Soviet perfume Red Moscow – a gift to Schlögel from the East German journalist Jens Bisky. This flacon is central to the discussion that follows. Standing next to it, and given its own place of honor on the shelf, is a handsome pack of cigarettes, of the same brand favored by Joseph Stalin. But, as my partner in dialogue will later tell me, Stalin didn’t smoke them, as such – he would tear open the paper with his fingernail and fill his pipe with the makhorka tobacco inside.

Schlögel is an award-winning historian of the Soviet Empire, an inexhaustible topic on which he has published more than 15 books. His most recent venture, The Scent of Empires ( Der Duft der Imperien , 2020), is exceptional not only within Schlögel’s own œuvre but within the historical community at large, where few works have sought to describe a period of world history by way of its fragrance. In fact, only one other book comes to mind: The Foul and the Fragrant: Odor and the French Social Imagination (1982) by Alain Corbin, who reconstructs the history of public space during the Enlightenment through its olfactory dimensions – providing a fertile background for Patrick Süskind’s famed novel, Perfume (1985), among other things. Yet the surreal but true story that comes together in Schlögel’s latest work smells more like something of Thomas Pynchon’s than it does of Süskind’s. In literary terms, The Scent of Empires might be described as the story of a pair of “perfume twins,” separated in incubation by the changing global landscape of their era. Both are descendants of a fragrance created for the 300-year anniversary of the arrival of the Romanov dynasty in France. One, named Chanel No. 5, becomes world famous. The other, Red Moscow, rises to stardom behind the Iron Curtain. Created by the Moscow-born perfumer Ernest Beaux of Alphonse Rallet & Co., a Russian house and the foremost purveyor of fragrance to the imperial courts, No. 5 is raised in Paris by fashion doyenne – and Nazi agent – Coco Chanel, growing her namesake label into a global luxury brand and making the designer one of the wealthiest women of the 20th century. Red Moscow is the ostensible older twin, first produced before the 1917 Revolution by Rallet & Co.’s top competitor, Henri Brocard, as Le Bouquet Préféré de l’Impératrice (The Empress’ Favorite Bouquet). It was then given a Russian name and taken under the wing of Polina Zhemchuzhina Molotova: USSR perfume commissioner; wife of foreign minister and Stalin protégé Vyacheslav Molotov; “friend” of Israeli ambassador Golda Meir; and a Jew, imprisoned as the result of a purge campaign in 1949. (Zhemchuzhina survived and remained a staunch Stalin supporter.) Making appearances in the parallel stories of Schlögel’s perfume powerhouses are Tsarina Catherine II, Russian suprematist Kazimir Malevich, and Joseph Stalin himself.

A woman who wears no fragrance, as Coco Chanel famously said, “has no future.” But dropped upon the throbbing pulses of Europe’s western and eastern centers by the women who shaped its style, the continent’s perfume is also the expression of its secret past.

In 1944, Chanel was interrogated by the Free French Purge Committee. After her release, she said to her grandniece, “Churchill had me freed.” Historians have speculated that Churchill was worried Chanel would expose Nazi sympathizers among the highest echelons of British elites – including the royal family.

Photo: George Hoyningen-Huene, 1939

Polina Zhemchuzhina went to the USA in 1934 to study the country’s cosmetics industry, visiting 25 plants and stopping for tea with Eleanor Roosevelt. American women, Zhemchuzhina later said, applied cosmetics “freely, but never without a personal touch of taste.” Upon her return, she set to work on building up the manufacture and use of cosmetics in the USSR, receiving the Order of Lenin – the highest Soviet decoration – for her work.

Photo: Official Soviet portrait, 1943

How did you arrive at this topic?

It’s a simple story. I was in Moscow in the early 1980s to study and conduct research. I noticed a particular scent every time I went to the theater or attended some festive event there. I’m no expert in scents, but I stumbled upon the same smell later, when I was in the GDR – or, rather, in the officers’ casinos that were technically outside the realm of the GDR. In any case, the scent was always present at festive occasions. I did some preliminary research and discovered that it was the very same one I had encountered before, and the most prominent and popular perfume in the Soviet Union: Red Moscow. The perfume’s formula originates in 1920 but evidently goes back to prerevolutionary times. As my goal in the book The Soviet Century had been to shed light on certain rather astonishing continuities that undermined the great rupture in 1917, this particular history about perfume suddenly became a very thrilling subject to me.

You “caught the scent,” as it were. In your latest book, you write that one of the leading historians on the history of Soviet perfumes, Natalya Dolgopolova, described the 1950s and 1960s as the “Golden Age of Soviet perfumery.” The then-new Seven Year Plan (1958–65) had exceeded expectations. The gross weight of manufactured perfume, eau de cologne, and eau de toilette totaled around 30,300 tons in 1965, surpassing industry production in leading capitalist states in the second half of the 1960s.

All of these social realities – and the upheavals in particular – also played out on an olfactory stage, in the world of fragrance. The second discovery I made was that Chanel No. 5 was also of Russian origin. Previously, I never had anything to do with perfumes or Chanel. But I discovered that No. 5’s perfumer came from Russia and had previously worked at a French perfume factory in the Russian Empire. Knowledge of this shared origin was something we lost because of the way the world became divided after 1917. This similitude endowed the story with a dynamic I was not prepared for: it became clear to me that the course of the 20th century could be told through this story.

This lens would reveal facets of world history that had previously been undetected.

Before this research, I had no idea that Polina Zhemchuzhina had had anything to do with the perfume industry. I knew the name only as a defendant in the trials from the end of the 1940s, and as the wife of Vyacheslav Molotov. I also didn’t know that Kazimir Malevich had designed a flacon for Red Moscow. All of this came together gradually and could later be congealed.

No one has told this story before you?

When you work in this field, you quickly realize that you’re never on your own. There’s a whole Russian discourse on perfume. It’s like railway enthusiasts: there’s a sophisticated and specialized scene that engages with this cosmos on the Internet. Yet what’s decisive for me is the intellectual approach. I am someone who rigorously pursues that which is visible, what’s tangible – the artifacts. I’ve mostly worked on places and cities. To me, architecture and urban sites are documents. As such, my actual aim is to give the senses their due place – but not theoretically! Not as an “olfactory turn,” but as self-evident fact. The sense of smell plays a decisive role in memory. By the way, I only read Patrick Süskind’s novel post festum. What can I say? Fiction is not my forte. All the same, Perfume left a lasting impression on me – not only as a literary work but also because every sentence shows that the author delved deep into the history of perfume production. I didn’t have a clue about perfumes until I made my discovery.

Not even for personal use?

After the initial spark of Red Moscow, I started looking at perfume within the context of Soviet history. I was in Munich at the time, and I went to a cosmetic shop to ask whether they carried Red Moscow. They didn’t, of course. So, I bought myself a small bottle of Chanel No. 5 as a consolation prize.

Chanel’s perfume of choice was No. 5, but her agent number was F-7124. Her code name was “Westminster,” after her former lover the Duke of Westminster.

You dedicated your book to the late Karl Lagerfeld, which is probably unique within historical scholarship. Lagerfeld, who really turned Chanel into the global brand it is today, revealed in a book published alongside his 2008–9 Metiers d’Arts Paris–Moscou collection that the secret of No. 5’s success had to do with France’s “Russian connection” – a cultural and commercial lineage that was buried by the Second World War and Stalinism. He alludes to the friendship between Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel and the Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna, who founded the Russian fashion house Kitmir. It was a clever move on Lagerfeld’s part to focus on the era before National Socialism. Coco’s reputation had been severely damaged by the discovery of her love affair with Baron Hans Günther von Dincklage, a Nazi functionary and official confidant to Hitler. It’s an extremely interesting issue, and Lagerfeld plays a role in reshaping the modern historical narrative by sidestepping it. You note early on in your book that fragrances disappeared from historical narratives when the eye became the organ of reason during the Age of Enlightenment. You write about a historical scholarship that’s been deodorized. One thing that’s remarkable about your approach is that the book itself is composed like a perfume: it has light, almost bright overtones, but also a heavy, musty chord that fortifies the whole. I don’t want to talk about skatoles necessarily, but the book’s contents are also concerned with the stench of history – with the scents of the concentration camps and in the gulags of the Stalinist Soviet Union.

This is also something that simply happened. I always have faith in the potency of the material. Nothing needs to be invented, everything can be discovered – or revealed. If all of your senses are activated, the Russian Revolution is not merely a story of directives, decrees, appeals, programs, and so on. Rather, it’s a simple and yet incredibly complex story. The story of the Russian Revolution could be told as one of an entirely new world of fragrance encroaching on an ancient one – that is, on the cordoned-off aristocratic realms of the theater, the opera house, and the salons of grand bourgeois residences. The work is also about these spaces, and their transformation into places of entirely different olfactory connotations.

Alain Corbin also wrote on perfume in the context of the leadup to the French Revolution. You write that the names of perfumes from the new era you describe are political – that the world of fragrances became semantically Bolshevized when cosmetics were given names such as Golden Era, New Way of Life (Novy byt), Red Poppy (Krasny mak), Spartakiada, Hero of the North (Geroy Severa), and Avantgarde. Later, during the Sturm und Drang era of the first Five Year Plan, these goods would bear the names of communism’s construction sites: Stratostat (a kind of tethered balloon), On Guard, Our Answer to the Kolkhoz Farmers (Nash otwjet kolchosnikan), Pioneer, Tank, White Sea Canal (Belomorski kanal), Kolkhoz Victory (Kolkhoznaya pobeda), and Greetings to the Chelyuskins (Privet Chelyuskinam) – the [last one] named after the Soviet expedition ship that was trapped in the Arctic Ocean’s pack ice in 1933 but whose crew was rescued. Each new fragrance thus became a hallmark of the new class of social climbers.

Suddenly, an apartment where a family of four once lived with three service personnel became one where 40 people were living – and this was reflected in terms of smell. Not to reduce history to the nose again – I object to such simplifications. The issue is about expanding the register of perception, expanding the repertoire for models of description. The work is about a social upheaval in soundscapes as well as scentscapes, which have not been depicted so far. It’s a history of perception. And if you want to delve into the complexity of such a history during an upheaval, then you need to go about it like Alain Corbin did – in this case, for the 20th century.

Class consciousness is also generated from odors – a point you make when quoting George Orwell: “The lower classes smell .... No feeling of like or dislike is quite so fundamental as a physical feeling.” You note that people in the East were thinking along similar lines when they spoke of the “crystalline purity of the party,” the “rotting bourgeois intelligentsia,” or even about “purges.” The scent of lavender, as it appears in the chansons of Alexander Vertinsky for example, signifies decay, decadence, and degeneracy in the eyes of those tasked with guarding Bolshevik morality. It wasn’t long until political adversaries started being called “Trotskyite Pyatakovian degenerates” who belonged in the “ manure heap,” in the “trash heap of history.” An awareness of scent bolsters one of class struggle – and you sniff your way into that psyche.

Anyone here in Berlin who used to walk across Friedrichstraße and enter East Berlin through Checkpoint Charlie would have immediately smelled that they [had] entered another sphere. You could smell the disinfectant Wofasept, which was ubiquitous in the GDR. Incidentally, this is an odor that has since been eradicated: although the disinfectant is still produced, its scent has been diminished. But back then, the smell of Wofasept, like that of Red Moscow, was an indication of the partition. One’s memory of such indications [is] just as powerful as the recollection of the crossing of the borders themselves.

Even today, coming from Germany, there is a change of scent when you cross the bridge from Görlitz into Poland. This has to do with the different way that the radiators are constructed: the pipes in pubs in Poland give off a different heat than those in Germany.

I believe it would be tremendously beneficial if the senses were restored, if they were included as one of the instruments for historical scholarship. This would be a gain in complexity – in our understanding of reality. It would also be a gain in possibility, in the potential of penetrating the experiential space of the past, which remains barred to us. The question is: why aren’t specialized knowledge and specialized perspective given complete expression in the sphere of historical scholarship? Likewise, and seen from the other side, scholars of history don’t grant things like fragrances the value and import that they deserve.

Perhaps it’s because the discipline of history considers them to be trifling, fleeting, even? You also write about the complicated issue of “luxury and fashion” at times. Perhaps this isn’t significant enough from the perspective of the ivory tower, either?

This idea appeared recently in an article by Hans Magnus Enzensberger in his magazine Transatlantik . Enzensberger is someone who has always paid a great deal of attention to everything those in that ivory tower have overlooked. And from aesthetics and media scholar Bazon Brock I learned that it is just as feasible to tell the history of a given society through a history of luxury – and perhaps it can even be done better, more concisely through that lens – as it is through a history of everyday life.

The second reason I think your book is so remarkable is that in a number of places I was sure that I was reading fiction .... I was reminded of a novel by Thomas Pynchon. It’s incredible how many elements and people come together and are connected as a result of the history of two perfumes. You write that a bottle of Chanel No. 5 was actually walled in as a founding stone for the French pavilion at the 1939 World Fair in Paris. Not long afterward, the Second World War broke out. Only a few years later, Polina Zhemchuzhina was released from an internment camp, and [she] asked whether Joseph was still alive. When she was told that Stalin, the very person who had sent her into exile in the camp, was “no longer with us,” that he had died in the meantime, she suffered a nervous breakdown. This is the same woman who is responsible for the production of the Red Moscow perfume, as well as soaps – soaps that you describe as being shaped like cornichons. All of this is said to be true, but it’s a truth stranger than fiction.

In my experience – and this happens almost every day – there are things that take place that go beyond our for-the-most-part-limited imagination. Who among us could say they had foreseen that a figure like Trump would be able to shake America so deeply, or were prepared for the explosion of malice, lies, deception, agitation, and hatred. This would have been inconceivable to me even a year ago. Then there’s Putin: if you observe his press conferences, his staged appearances dispatched from a bunker, and particularly the statements his press officer Dmitry Peskov makes, terms like “cynicism” hardly do it justice. We have grown up in a world that lacks experience of war and revolutions. Maybe all of this is still to come. But such figures, such acts of disgrace, of malice, or even of heroism and bravery, have never appeared on the horizon in my own lifetime. This is why great literature is immensely valuable to me. I am of the opinion that it is impossible to understand a time or an epoch without activating its finer registers – the registers of poets, artists, musicians, and so on. This isn’t the opinion of every historian. We need to brace ourselves – and I don’t mean this psychologically, but rather in the sense of the great historian Reinhart Koselleck – for things that Europeans alive today have never had anything to do with. Riots, brawls, torture – our sensory apparatus hasn’t been properly educated for such things. I would also say that our language is lacking. We need to learn. One can protest, of course. But protests often only serve the function of relieving one of one’s guilty conscience. If you yourself do nothing, if you’re not able to do anything, then you want to rid yourself of this feeling of paralysis. It’s always easy to blame the political classes for everything, with regard to the people who are responsible for finding a language for everything that’s happening. As is always the case in such situations, this is particularly true for the journalists who are reporting from the front lines of the present world. For me, the people who are involved in the current turmoil, who look and listen carefully, and who keep their cool in moments of grave danger and ample distraction, these people are those who are capable of transforming our worldview.

“No elegance is possible without perfume. It is the invisible, ultimate, and unforgettable accessory.” – Coco Chanel

Yet we’re currently living in a time that’s almost a dream state, where we’re unwilling to leave the old world we know behind. You can pretend that this is only a brief crisis. Sure, the Capitol was stormed; okay, there’s a man there who is half-naked and has a Thor hammer tattoo near his groin and who painted his face in red, white, and blue before praying in Congress’ legislative chamber. You can pretend that this will pass and that we will return to some kind of order – but there’s no guarantee.

This is the condition that’s the most difficult to bear: that a situation remains entirely undecided. And I don’t mean this in relation to the American upheaval. In dismantling the old world order, we’ll once again be confronted with the task of rethinking everything. Nothing is self-evident. This sense of basic trust accumulated during the relative stability of the postwar period is dissolving. This is why a sense of orientation is needed, why there’s an incredibly strong demand for a steady hand. Whoever is able to meet this demand will prevail. All of us are implicated in a process of reorganization that we can’t turn our backs on. When those familiar and customary certainties are no longer valid, then it’s a very risky situation – but also one that has the potential to be incredibly rewarding, intellectually speaking. It’s actually a splendid situation! To face it without fear, without taking common sense or everything that’s become customary into account – there’s a monumental story in there. And this is why I believe we’re not keeping pace with the times.

I can only speak for myself, but I am overcome with a feeling of powerlessness – intellectually, verbally, and as a writer – whenever I am supposed to give an adequate response to what should be done about Russia. Of course, one could express oneself with the language of protest, of condemnation, which is also necessary. But in order to face the array of imperial power alongside a state intelligence that is criminally motivated and driven and a parallel increase of entirely new media resources – that is, in order to face this postmodern mixture of Hollywood, KGB, and tradition – it’s by no means useful to make reference to historical analogies. This is where the line of show trials during the 1930s emerges – and all that isn’t wrong. But in order to get to the core of why this particular figure has been able to rise to dominance, and why we only ever react – well, something is still wanting. What is needed, for example, is the realization that Putin, as immensely powerful as he is, is also incredibly ridiculous at the same time. This man is simply too small for this wonderful and rich country.

Are you suggesting that Putin isn’t cruel enough?

No. By “too small,” I mean someone who is not keeping pace with the times. The empire is over. What’s needed is someone who will face up to the tasks of sweat and tears, someone who takes his people as seriously as they deserve, instead of treating them like infants and seeking refuge in a phantasmagoria of threats coming from outside. Like the idea that Germany or the USA [is] hatching plans to overthrow him, that revolutions should be instigated – that whole repertoire. By “ big,” I mean someone who is daring, someone who has the courage to tell his nation what’s happening. Who doesn’t always blame others, who takes responsibility to put the country in order. And by that, I mean what everyone in Russia already knows, what Mikhail Gorbachev and everyone else had already said: to finally become a normal country. No more utopias. Instead, simple things that the rest of the developed world, to which Russia belongs, has become accustomed should also gain traction. From someone in Vladimir Putin’s position, I expect courage, fortitude ...

... statesmanlike behavior?

Statesmanlike, yes, not only in terms of a foreign policy agenda, but in addressing the citizens of his own country. After the coup in 1991, I was actually quite confident. For me, one of the greatest moments at the time was when Boris Yeltsin addressed thousands of people who had gathered together – “Citizens of Russia!” This was a provocation: it said, we’re going to deal with this right now! But the fact that the balance of power was much more complicated at the time is another story.

The affiliation between Paris and Moscow is a major focus in your book, as something that both sides invoked. The Russian perfume industry tries to imitate the French, while Coco Chanel alludes to the magic of the Tsarist era. When the bond broke, that shared history was forgotten.

The connection you refer to was very strong – and it took a very long time to dismantle. Russia had an incredibly strong cultural presence in France before the Russian Revolution. This was epitomized by Sergei Diaghilev – who, by the way, I consider to be one of the most significant cultural figures of all time – and his “Saison Russe.” Then there was the entire 1920s, the milieu of fellow travelers and of the emigrés. It was a given that people such as Ilya Ehrenburg drifted between cultural worlds. And it took the total devastation of war to bury all of this under ruins. Add to that the very long Cold War – half a century – and you have generations where something simply went missing.

The image of France became commodified in Russia during the Cold War. People coveted Chanel No. 5 and dreamed of the Moulin Rouge. But no cultural connection existed outside of the market. And it was no longer reciprocal: to western Europe, Russia was seen as an empire of scarcity with a toilet paper shortage.

The French were icons of luxury and refinement. That remains true today in terms of the country’s brand. In the world of luxury and fashion, France remains a global force. Russia’s appeal lies in the reserves of its literature. There’s also Russian engineering. For me, Russia is a country of engineers – somewhat like America, in fact. An exhibition about Russian engineers – real ones, not the “engineers of the soul,” as Stalin called his writers – is something I can well imagine.

Is that quote really from Stalin?

It might have been Maxim Gorky. It’s often said that great culture is only created from suffering. It’s somehow fitting: the writer as the spokesman for his people, for his nation; literature as a sacrifice that’s associated with self-sacrifice, far from literature as an industry. There are representative figures for this in Russia: Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn, for instance; Varlam Shalamov; Vasily Grossman. Such literature is associated with the experience of suffering and sacrifice, and, above all, with the knowledge of what the Germans did in Russia.

This is often noted, but there was an immense number of victims under Stalin.

Yes, but this is a German problem. The history of violence within Russia has disappeared behind the shadows of the violence of world war. That’s how it is being told today. In Putin’s politics of memory, the war is mostly a heroic story. It’s also a story about the victims of German violence.

Has there ever been a Russian version of the German “Vergangenheitsbewältigung” – a concept understood as the process of coming to terms with the past?

Certainly! But under completely different conditions. There were several attempts, first during the so-called thaw. The prisoners returned from the camps, but they weren’t allowed to talk about it, and they were ashamed of having served time as traitors. This is why Solzhenitsyn is so significant: as the author of The Gulag Archipelago , he was the first person to describe the experience in the camps. The three-volume account was an intellectual atom bomb. Vasily Grossman’s novels, which I consider to be some of the greatest books of all time, were all written during this time, but had to be smuggled out of the country in order to be published. Shamalov also wrote stories after returning from the camps – but his were published. One has to imagine: intellectual work in these issues was being done the entire time, but much of it was never allowed to come to light. At least not until perestroika, when the earth-shattering things were surfacing on a daily basis – a period of wild thinking, excavation, and discovery lasted throughout the 1990s. Then, as things restabilized, an old guard made up of former secret service agents and oligarchs returned to power, and returned to discipline. They began by making it more difficult to access archives, closing entire departments and persecuting historians who had anything to do with such business. At the same time, they started to take history in their own hands. Putin himself was present at the inauguration of the “Wall of Grief,” a monument to the victims of political persecution. The only major event in Russian history that has been retained is the Great Patriotic War against Napoleon I. Everything else has been redacted. The Russian Revolution doesn’t even exist anymore. There’s no Great Terror. It’s all been cast aside, relegated to thick leather-bound volumes found in small editions in Russian bookstores – which are fascinating places, by the way. You can find literally everything there.

There’s an incredible, Pynchonesque moment in your book where an 85-year-old Coco Chanel receives a visit from an ambassador from the Soviet Union in her suite at the Ritz, where Chanel resided throughout the German occupation, despite its being reserved for military officers – an arrangement brokered by her aristocrat lover Baron Hans Günther von Dincklage. The Soviet ambassador gifts her some Russian perfumes and suggests that Chanel start redesigning Russian merchandise. One perfume is called White Lilac, and the other is Stone Flower, which is named after a Stalin-era fairy tale movie. Both scents pleased Madame Chanel, who apparently also told Roland Barthes about it. The French theorist reported that Chanel was planning to travel to Moscow, to help a society that was in need of “aesthetic innovation.” That was in 1968. But nothing came of this plan.

Coco Chanel – and this has been verified – had an interest in sitting out the period that followed the Allies’ Anti-Hitler Coalition and the beginning of the Cold War. She would benefit simply by letting the time of isolation pass, waiting on things to thaw. The American National Exhibition in Moscow in 1959 suggested that such a thing might actually happen. It was a remarkable event for this generation: there was the state visit of Richard Nixon and his famous “kitchen debate” with Nikita Khrushchev; Buckminster Fuller, Raymond Loewy, and Duke Ellington were all there, as was the Paris fashion scene. Dior hosted a fashion show in Moscow, where there was local interest in reestablishing a common culture, and in catching up with France’s leadership in style and design. During this relatively relaxed period under Khrushchev, enough openness existed that people were able to learn as much as possible. The goal was to eventually exceed its freedoms, of course, but the Khrushchev Thaw was already over by the mid-1960s. Another short span of time sadly faded, then [was] lost from memory. It’s important to speak about the entire generation that ended up being deprived as a result – of their career and of an important period in life. Today, images of Moscow show a city and country that has changed yet again – and fashion remains in the political backdrop. Rows of thugs they call “Cosmonauts,” dressed in head-to-toe riot armor, march through the pedestrian passages of Moscow, past Gucci, Dior, and Chanel storefronts, to beat up protestors.

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