400
600
8.3 gal / 32 lit
16.7 gal / 63 lit
25 gal / 95 lit
130 lbs / 59 kg
145 lbs / 66 kg
155 lbs / 70 kg
125 lbs / 59 kg
140 lbs / 63 kg
150 lbs / 68 kg
For additional information please contact our Sea Recovery consultant:
+31 (0)24-3667473
Innovative watermakers since 1998.
Established in 1998 Schenker is a leading manufacturer of high quality watermakers based on an energy recovery system . Our company owns 4 patents for unique small scale energy efficient solutions.
Why choose us.
Energy consumption can be reduced up to 80% compared to conventional systems.
An ultra thin design is ideal for space restrictions and provides easy access for maintenance.
Our watermakers are powered directly from batteries without the need of a generator, our products, marine watermakers.
Schenker watermakers are simple, quiet, compact, efficient and fully automatic. A Schenker watermaker will allow you – whether you own a yacht, a sail boat or any vessel – to extend your cruising duration and increase your independency from marinas, thus enjoying more time at sea. Schenker’s three-years warranty is backed up by our international network of sales and service representatives.
Portable marine watermaker
Quiet, small, efficient, inexpensive
Smart, light and affordable
A very compact units for all needs
Emergency portable solutions.
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Rainman watermaker review – Rainman naked 12V system (economy)
We’ve done a full review of the Rainman watermaker to help you make an informed decision before you purchase.
A watermaker is a piece of equipment you can install in your boat, or any off-grid situation, to make crystal-clear drinking water from undrinkable, salty sea water and electricity.
A lot of people want a sailboat so they can travel independently and visit remote locations. A watermaker essentially removes your reliance on shore support for fresh water; drastically increasing your range and independence while making life on board a lot more comfortable to boot.
Watermakers can seem complicated at first, but they’re actually remarkably easy to install and operate – although some more than others!
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In this article we’re going to explain why we decided to buy watermaker in the first place; how we went about choosing a make and model; how we installed it in our cruising sailboat, and why we ultimately decided on a Rainman watermaker as the best watermaker for full-time liveaboards on a sailboat.
How does a watermaker work?
Rainman watermaker review
There are a lot of different watermakers to choose between, but they mostly work in a very similar way – they’re basically pressure-washers configured to force salt water through a very fine filter at high pressure.
The filter, or “membrane”, is specially designed to remove all of the things you don’t want in your drinking water – like bacteria, viruses and salt – and only allow clean water to pass. You can drink the resulting water (it’s usually cleaner than tap water on land!), and naturally you can also use it for all your other domestic needs like cooking and cleaning.
The watermaker needs two things to work: a raw water source, like the sea, and a power source, which on a sailboat is typically your batteries and solar panels. You can get watermakers that run directly off the 12VDC / 24VDC your batteries provide, or from your inverter at 120VAC or 240VAC depending on where you are in the world.
You can also run a watermaker from a generator if you have one, which is a popular approach for boats that consume a lot of water (e.g. charters). A select few manufacturers, Rainman being one of them, even offer units that run directly off petrol – a sort of generator-and-watermaker in one. But which is the best watermaker for a cruising sailboat, and how can you choose between them?
Like anything in sailing, the absolute best sailboat watermaker for your boat depends on your needs and intended cruising pattern – but we’re going to talk you through the criteria we decided were the most important, and how that process ultimately led us to buy a Rainman watermaker.
There are a few thought-exercises we ran through before committing, such as “how much water do we currently use”, but also “do we want to use more than that after we install the watermaker”?
We thought about what we really wanted to achieve by installing our Rainman (read more on this in the Rainman watermaker review section!) – were we looking to cover our existing needs and remove our reliance on shore support, or should this represent a significant quality-of-life upgrade at the same time? And having calculated all that, did we have enough power to back it up? Here’s the thought process we went through.
Before our Rainman watermaker review – how much water do you actually need?
If you’re reading this article, it’s likely that you don’t currently have a watermaker… and if you don’t, it’s equally likely that you have learnt how to eke out the water in your tanks for weeks or even months at a time!
Prior to installing our Rainman, Emily had perfected the art of taking a full shower in less than one litre of water (0.2 gallons). She would draw it into an empty bottle and often come out with water left over! I however am not known for my restraint and delicacy, and as such was relegated to washing in the sea. As a result of her aqueous austerity, Emily also became the underwater ceramics technician onboard Hot Chocolate (i.e. she does all our washing up, because I waste too much water). All of the above came from our tanks, while water for drinking and cooking came from shop-bought bottles.
And for us, that was the #1 thing – we wanted to remove our reliance on bottled water, because it’s horrible for the environment. It’s also super inconvenient – water was the main thing limiting our range and tying us to shore support. Water weighs 1KG per litre (8.3lb / gallon for our friends across the pond). We drink about 3L each, per day, in the heat of the summer; so we’re looking at hauling 42KG of water per week (6.6 stone) from the supermarket just to cover our basic hydration.
We often cooked in bottled water, too, because a lot of countries have heavy metals like lead and mercury in the tap water and you don’t really want your pasta with a side of poison. We calculated that we were actually getting through about 8L per day combined in food and drink alone, which meant hauling 56KG of bottled water a week under the blistering Greek sun (nearly 9 stone)… and no doubt further inflating our water requirements as a result!!
Then there’s the cost of the bottled water, which is small but does add up, and the added inconvenience of having to make regular bin runs to deal with all that plastic (~38 bottles a week). Bear in mind we’re just two people – if you have a family or regular guests, you’ll need to increase those accordingly.
A close second was the ability to shower whenever we wanted (run away to sea, they said… it’ll be romantic, they said…) – so that’s an extra litre every day or two for Emily, and an extra 10 or 20 for me! Truth be told I was quite happy washing in the sea, but it’s very nice to be able to shower in fresh water for special occasions, or be able to rinse equipment in fresh water after it’s been in the sea (e.g. knives, spearguns…).
A stretch-goal was to have enough water on tap (pun intended!) for me to become assistant-second-in-command underwater ceramics technician, and take my fair share of the washing up. We also quite liked the idea of being able to soak lines, clean the salt out of deck hardware, etc. because that’s something we typically only get to do at the start and end of the season, but that was very much viewed as a bonus. Washing the salt off your gear extends its life dramatically which can be a good way to offset the cost of a watermaker if you’re on a budget.
So in summary, we didn’t just want to cover our existing needs – we wanted a little more to play with as well – but we didn’t go as far as treating it like water on land (showers every day, washing clothes, etc). If you have a washing machine, heads that flush with fresh water, teenagers that seem to be waging war on their microbiomes with endless soapy showers… you’ll need to account for those as well.
We estimated our water needs to be:
Drinking: 3L / person / day;
Cooking: 0.5L / person / day;
Personal hygiene: 5L / person / day (e.g. a 10L shower every other day);
General needs, e.g. cleaning: 1.5L / person / day;
Total: approx. 10L / 2.2 gallons per person, per day – meaning 20L total per day.
Some brands of watermakers are more efficient than others, but from our own experience and from talking to others, it seems like it takes around 10 Watt-hours to make a litre of water – i.e. about 0.8 Amp-hours from a 12 volt battery. Your mileage will vary based on things like the chemistry of your battery bank, the length of your cable runs, and even the temperature of the sea, but that seems to be a pretty usable yardstick.
Our Rainman watermaker draws about 28A when it’s running, and makes about 34 litres per hour.
Because we’re full-time liveaboards, and working remotely from the boat as well, we already have quite a lot of solar – for a monohull, at least – 360 Watts of mono panels. In theory they should push a good 30 Amps into the batteries in full sun, but in practice it peaks at more like 20A and we make a total of 2.2kWh (2200Wh) in an average day.
We need to make 20L of water per day to keep up; that means we need to allocate 200 Watt-hours from the 2200 we make in a day; i.e., installing our Rainman increased our overall power needs by about 10%.
For comparison, Emily’s laptop draws about 90W an hour and mine draws 120W, so running our Rainman watermaker for an hour a day is about the same as running both our laptops for the same period. A 12V fridge often draws about 3 amps, so about 36W – meaning keeping the fridge running consumes ~850Wh per day, about 4 times more than our watermaker.
Honestly, I imagined it would take a lot more!
Of course, our solar output drops drastically as the Autumn / Fall rolls in, but then so do our water needs… so it’ll be interesting to see how that pans out and whether we’ll need to augment it with fossils fuels, e.g. making water after motoring.
⚡ Note: We have recently upgraded our battery setup to lithium marine batteries from the wonderful BattleBorn. We highly recommend them. You can find out more here . ⚡
See the FAQs at the end for more information.
Everyone’s needs are different, and it’s important to factor them in when choosing a watermaker.
One of the main reasons we were drawn to Rainman watermakers is that they use all off-the-shelf, standardised parts. If your Rainman breaks down, it almost doesn’t matter where in the world you are – you’ll likely be able to get standardised spares in the nearest major city. We won’t name any names, but in our quest to identify the best watermaker for our sailboat we discovered that a lot of manufacturers use proprietary parts – ones you can only get from the manufacturer.
We considered this to be extremely undesirable, because
(i) as a cruising sailboat, we want to be able to service our watermaker anywhere in the world
(ii) it can lead to price-gouging, i.e. they can charge whatever they want for spares because you can’t get them anywhere else; and
(iii) – it demonstrates an astonishing lack of awareness on the part of the manufacturer.
Your mileage may vary, but we bought a watermaker for the independence. In fact, we more or less bought the whole boat for independence! Trading a reliance on bottled water for a reliance on obscure, single-source, non-standard parts completely defeats the object.
I have worked in technology all of my life, and for every instance where proprietary parts were truly necessary I could show you 20 more where it was simply an attempt to create a “walled garden” and force you to buy overpriced spares from the manufacturer themselves. In a further handful of cases, it’s to force planned obsolescence and make you throw away an old unit rather than repairing it – which again, is the opposite of how we try to live.
In a non-watermaker example, this is exactly the reason we were forced to replace our windlass in our first season. A simple, $5 helical gear stripped, but because it was proprietary and the manufacturer had long since gone bust, we had no option but to replace it in its entirety – at a cost of about $1500, and all the needless waste accompanying it. We found a machine shop who could copy the stripped gear, but it would have cost nearly $1000 anyway after set-up costs. Not everyone will agree with us but we found that a horrible waste and just an awful design philosophy, and we cursed that manufacturer in a way that would make Blackbeard blush as we hauled up 80M of muddy chain by hand…!
So try to think about your intended cruising patterns and how awkward it would be if you needed spares. If you typically cruise the same grounds, it’s unlikely to affect you that much. If you’re planning an expedition or a circumnavigation however, you’re likely to want to look for manufacturers with a practical design philosophy like Rainman.
Ask around in forums and social media groups and try to gauge what it’s like to deal with the manufacturer. How self-serviceable are the units? How reliable are they? Again, this is something that led us straight to Rainman watermakers. The units have a reputation for being absolutely bulletproof; the pre-sale communication was outstanding, you can get spares anywhere in the world and (nerd alert) the documentation is outstanding too.
Although we eventually went for a fully-installed unit, we also loved the fact you could get a portable version that stows away in a locker or can even been taken in a bail-out situation if you have a 12V source to run it from. You can use the same Rainman watermaker in salt water or brackish (mixed salt and fresh) just by adjusting the pressure level, where some manufacturers require you to purchase a specific unit for each. While we didn’t actually need a lot of these features we appreciated that Rainman was grounded in real-world use cases and had given us that flexibility.
You should also consider if you really need a watermaker. Yes, they are wonderful. Yes, they are basically magic. Yes, it would be nice to be able to stand downwind of your significant other without a peg on your nose. But they also cost about $5,000, and you do have to keep using them every 2-3 days or fill them with pickling solution, else they will foul up and ruin the membranes (Rainman has an “autoflush” unit that makes this a lot easier, see below). If you don’t live aboard full time, you might actually find it an inconvenience!
Having considered all of this, let’s talk about the Rainman Naked 12V unit we eventually bought, and why – although the reasons should already be becoming apparent! Here is our honest Rainman watermaker review – warts and all.
A Rainman system comes in a few separate parts, which you can configure to suit your needs.
The pressure supply unit, aka. PSU. This is the pump that draws water from the sea, and then pressurises it ready to be forced through the membrane.
The RO unit. RO stands for reverse osmosis, which is the process a watermaker uses to filter the water. The RO unit therefore is a long tube containing the specialist filters that let it separate clean drinking water from salty sea water. The PSU pressurises sea water and sends it into the RO unit. Out of the other end, you get a small amount of pure, clean, drinking water, and the waste product – brine.
Control panel. Rainman make an optional control panel that lets you start and control the unit remotely from somewhere else in the boat. We installed our Rainmain in a pretty awkward location (in a lazarette under the cockpit), so we were very grateful to be able to mount the control panel somewhere rather more accessible! The control panel has instruments that tell you the pressure the system is operating at, how much water you’re making, and even the quality of the water (via a traffic-light system). You can also use it to control the autoflush function (see below).
Autoflush. Another optional extra, but one we would highly recommend. As detailed earlier in the article, you have to run a watermaker very regularly else marine life will grow on the filters and ruin them. The best antidote is regular, even daily, use, but you can also fill the unit with “pickling” solution that stops the fouling from growing. Generally speaking, that means you run the watermaker 2 – 3 times a week while living aboard, and then pickle it in the off-season when the boat is on the hard standing or home berth. It’s a bit of a pain, but not nearly as annoying as lugging 50KG of water from the nearest supermarket and / or chronic dehydration.
Enter the autoflush. Once a week, or at another interval of your choosing, the autoflush will open a valve and take fresh water from your tanks to flush the membrane and prevent fouling. This extends the life of the membranes significantly and removes human error from the equation. Considering an average sailboat has north of 10,000 moving parts to worry about, we’re big fans of anything that essentially maintains itself! You’ll still need to pickle if you don’t run the unit for 30 days, but if you’re like us and can stretch a tank of water to 14 days or more it’s really convenient.
When specifying a Rainman system, you have three basic choices to make :
Power source. When buying a Rainman, you can choose between three different power sources:
The DC version makes a lot less water per hour than the AC version, because of nerdy reasons related to DC and current. A DC system tops out at 34 litres per hour, where an AC can make up to 140. They’re also somewhat less efficient, although if you’re using an inverter to make AC you should bear in mind your inverter is typically wasting 10 – 20% in the process so the numbers aren’t quite as clear-cut as they seem.
It’s marginally quieter than the AC system, but you need to be able to position it fairly close to your battery bank because again, nerdy reasons to do with DC.
We chose the DC unit because:
Once you’ve decided on a power source, you can then choose the size and quantity of RO membranes to go with it:
And finally, decide whether you prefer a portable (cased) or permanently-installed (naked!) system:
Portable systems are good if you simply don’t have space to permanently install the unit, and they offer the flexibility of being able to stow your Rainman in a locker when not in use. The PSU needs to stay quite cool while in use, and operating the unit in the open air is a pretty solid guarantee that it will. They’re also great if you don’t have a spare through-hull and you don’t fancy cutting a hole in your boat – you just dangle the hose over the side, making sure it’s good and deep but not amongst any fouling. However, you add a lot of man-hours to your watermaking operation (setting up, packing down, manually flushing…), which should definitely be factored in. You can’t autoflush, and you’re more likely to make a mistake – sucking up air or fouling can damage the unit, and the more times you manually dangle a hose over the side the greater your chances of doing so.
On Hot Chocolate, we already had two perfect, spare through-hulls from where the engine-driven fridge compressor used to be. One of them is deep down in the keel, allowing for a clean bite of water with near-zero chance of fouling or air bubbles. We can make water while underway without needing to watch the hose. The latter was perfectly positioned above the waterline so we can observe the brine output and check it for bubbles (part of the procedure for making water). This made choosing a naked system a no-brainer for us, but I think even if we didn’t have the spare holes in the boat we would probably have made the same decision.
And that’s it – that’s your three basic choices . If you went for a naked system you have a further two optional extras in the form of the control panel and autoflush, both of which represent pretty significant quality-of-life upgrades if you can afford them – but it’s still a fantastic piece of kit if you can’t!
I know we’ve already mentioned this, but the documentation is really excellent and it’s clear there has been a lot of thought put into the product. It’s evident Rainman expect people to self-install, whereas when we spoke to one of their competitors (who we won’t name!) they stated “if you need to ask us any questions you shouldn’t be installing it”! Again, this shows a level of pragmatism, forward thinking and just common sense on Rainman’s part that we sometimes found lacking in competitors.
If you’re a manufacturer reading this, please understand that cruising yachts absolutely are going to install and maintain their own electronics, and we’ll desert you in droves if you try to lock us out!
We were pleasantly surprised to find that the unit came with almost everything we needed to install it. We were expecting to supply our own hoses, sundries, etc. but Rainman supplies everything you need – hoses, jubilee clips, hose splitters, T-valves… while we were installing it our local chandlery told us a horror story about a boat who had been waiting eight weeks for a replacement hose for their non-Rainman watermaker, so we greatly appreciated the completeness of the kit! I believe the only items we had to add was a splitter to tee the fresh water output into our tank, because we have the flexible plastic variety and the supplied fittings assumed a conventional solid tank. We happened to have one on board, so our additional material overheads were exactly $0.
Installation was really very straightforward. End-to-end it took me two days to install and test the unit, plus an extra day to get the autoflush set up.
We had a tiny teething problem in that one of the hoses was supplied with an adaptor, and we needed to remove it to screw it in correctly. We raised a ticket with Rainman, they replied in about 2 hours, and had already followed up to see if we were sorted by the time we read their first email!
Only basic hand tools were required to complete the installation, and in fact most of the connections are toolless (e.g. push-fit connectors). We’re now about three weeks into our ownership, and so far, I can honestly say we don’t have a bad word to say about either the company or the unit itself. Our intention is to update this in 6 – 12 months once we’ve had our Rainman for a season and let you know how it shapes up!
Our Rainman arrived from Australia to Greece in a little under 3 weeks, although Greek customs took a further 3 weeks to clear! We ended up having to pay a total of EUR 1100 in VAT and import duties, which was about what we expected. We’ve heard of people not getting charged anything, so it seems to be a bit of a lottery. The biggest hurdle we faced importing it was getting an EORI number (a Greek tax code for imports worth more than EUR 1000). We ended up using our boatyard’s EORI number, meaning they paid customs and we paid them back.
If you have any questions about Rainman or watermakers in general, feel free to use the comments section below and we’ll do our best to help. We’ve also tried to compile some answers to the questions we had when we started this journey and some of the most common ones you see online ( find this section below ). If this review was useful to you, please consider sharing it or joining our newsletter for more quality content and awful puns!
Check out Rainman products here.
Yes, you can use the power from your alternator while motoring to run your watermaker. Just be aware that if you’re underway, you might be creating bubbles… and if you suck up a bubble it can damage your membranes. Make sure the intake hose is good and deep and your wake is free of bubbles, or just bank the power and make water when you get to the other end.
Absolutely. When your watermaker is functioning correctly it should make water with around 300PPM (parts per million) of contaminants. Safe drinking water is usually 500 – 800, so in most cases, it’s actually cleaner than the water you usually drink!
The number one enemy of watermakers is fouling. When you suck up sea water, it contains billions of microorganisms like plants and algae. Your watermaker filters them out, but some of them get caught in the membrane and can start to grow. The best way to take care of a watermaker is to run it very regularly to flush the microorganisms out before they get a chance to take hold. Run your watermaker every 2 – 3 days minimum, pickle it when not in use, and strongly consider getting a system with an autoflush function like a Rainman – it will make your life a lot easier.
It varies, but between 30 litres an hour for a smaller unit or up to 140 litres an hour for a larger unit.
It depends on the size of the watermaker, but basic units consume around 400W, and bigger units around 1.2kW.
Absolutely, you can run a watermaker off solar power. We have a 400W unit that we run from our 360W panels, via our 12V battery bank. We rarely need to generate in order to make water.
Mains-powered watermakers are generally more efficient, producing more water both per Watt and per hour. However, you need a fairly large inverter or generator to use a mains-powered unit. We opted for a 12V system because we didn’t need the speed of a mains-powered system, and we didn’t want to have to upgrade our inverter to accommodate one. You can find more information about why we chose a DC system in the body of this review.
Some watermakers can make water from brackish water as well as salt. Some manufacturers require you to specify at the point of purchase, whereas others (like the Rainman) can handle it with a simple pressure adjustment. Just be sure to read and follow the manual carefully or you can damage your membrane.
A solar still is a device that makes clean water by evaporating sea water. It’s a great piece of kit to have in a grab-bag, particularly if you’re attempting a longer passage. You can get inflatable solar stills that fold down to the size of a pack of cards. Solar stills are excellent emergency gear but not a replacement for a watermaker, because they typically only make 1-2 litres per 24 hours – vs 2,000+ litres per 24 hours for a watermaker. Their principal advantages are portability and the fact they don’t need any electricity to operate. Both have a home on an ocean-going sailboat!
A number of plans circulate online for DIY watermakers. Watermakers are essentially pressure washers that force sea water through a membrane or filter to produce clean drinking water. It’s reportedly possible to build your own using off-the-shelf components (like pressure washers!), and save perhaps $1000 vs buying a pre-configured watermaker. While we’ve heard a lot about the concept over the years, we’re yet to meet a sailor who has built one themselves. Let us know in the comments if you’ve built one and how it’s working out for you!
What’s the difference between a water filter jug and a watermaker, and why does one cost $10 while the other costs ~$5000?
Filter jugs use filtration and something called “ion exchange”, meaning the water trickles through a pad made of something like cotton to remove large particles, and activated charcoal or ion exchange resin which reacts with and “grabs” semi-volatile organic compounds out of the water. Sometimes they also use silver, which is antimicrobial, or UV light to kill out bugs. Filter jugs typically can’t remove heavy metals like lead and mercury, and they certainly can’t desalinate water (remove the salt and make it safe to drink). For that level of filtration you need to pressurise the water and use a much more sophisticated filter called a “reverse osmosis” membrane, hence the cost and complexity of a watermaker. The closest cheap equivalent is a solar still (see above).
13 comments.
Thanks for the detailed review and analysis of the various pros and cons. I plan to get a Rainman for my boat – also in Greece and am weighing up the options. Good practical advice about the autoflush option! Also, I notice you didn’t buy it from the Greek distributor – is there a reason?
Hello, thanks for the comment, and glad it was useful. We have to admit that out of all the upgrades we’ve made to the boat, this is the one that has run the smoothest – the whole process. We’re very, very happy! The reason we didn’t buy from Greece was as simple as price. Adam actually emailed Rainman with a whole bunch of questions (he likes to do his research!) and they cut us a very good deal that made it cheaper to buy from them. It was marginal though so if we hadn’t been out of the water all winter and had been in a rush to get our hands on it we would have bought from Greece. Hope that helps!
This is the best watermaker review I’ve read, haha! I was going to buy Spectra but now I’m seriously considering Rainman.
Thanks! Honestly would recommend it. Let us know which you go for and how you get on!
A very comprehensive and informative review, I’ve been researching these products for some time and can find very little to help me make a decision, can you also let me know how long you’ve had yours and if this has been reliable? I really want to make the right decision when I get one.
Hello, thanks for the comment. Glad we could help! We’ve had ours for a year now and it’s one of those bits of boat equipment that we just don’t think about because it works so seamlessly. Probably the best thing we’ve invested in for the boat (it was expensive but worth every penny!) Let us know if you go for the Rainman and how you get on.
Will do. I follow your blog closely, I’m a big fan of your lifestyle and your honest writing style.
what a great article, I love how honest and balanced this is. 5 stars
Thanks Rachel, really glad you found this useful and hope you do go for a Rainman watermaker. It’s one of the best purchases we’ve made for the boat!
So, you don’t g the specifications for the 12 volt model, what is the AMP versus gallon output ?.
was sent this article by a friend and it did not dissapoint. very thorough and clear explanation. can you review spectra next? ty
Thanks for your feedback and so pleased you found the watermaker review useful. If we ever go a different route in the future we will definitely give some honest feedback on whatever watermaker we opt for!
Comments are closed.
€ 3259.00 – € 4447.00 + 20% VAT (if due)
excl. VAT plus Shipping Costs
Great value for money sailboat watermaker supplied as a DIY Watermaker Kit . In the Blue Gold ZERO series Watermakers you will find only the essential components of a well-functioning reverse osmosis desalination plant.
The required power is very low, only 450 Watt (less than 40 Amperes) and you can produce freshwater without the need of a generator or a big alternator on the engine of the boat.
The Blue Gold ZERO Watermaker is intended for use by recreational yachts, small leisure boats and sailboats where purchase and maintenance of the desalination plant on board need to be economical. Around this simple, inexpensive and very reliable watermaker for nautical use, you can install additional components according to the specific needs of the boat.
Delivery time: 10 working days
In the Blue Gold ZERO series Watermakers you will find only the essential components of a well-functioning reverse osmosis desalination system.
The required power is very low, only 450 Watt (less than 40 Amperes at 13 Volt) and you can produce freshwater without the need of a generator or a big alternator on the engine of the boat.
The Blue Gold ZERO Water maker is intended for use by recreational yachts, small leisure boats and sailboats where purchase and maintenance of the desalination plant on board need to be economical. Around this simple, less expensive and very reliable marine watermaker, you can install additional components according to the specific needs of the boat.
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This small watermaker for sailboat unit is built to last and comes with 1x 2540 or 2x 2521 high rejection and high productivity seawater membranes. A new vessel rack made in composite, strong and very lightweight, is supplied as standard.
Its modular design allows an easy handling of the components even in the narrow spaces of a boat .
This sail boat water maker is equipped with the UDOR PSC (AISI 316L head) or the UDOR PNC (Brass head) high pressure pump. The use of an oversized pump, combined with the use of a timing-belt and pulley drive system, reduces the speed of the pump and makes this machine very quiet (only 70 db at one meter distance) and vibration-free. In addition, the life of the mechanical components and valves is greatly increased.
An appropriate feed pump, is supplied as standard for carrying the seawater to the high pressure pump.
Installing a desalinator for seawater onboard significantly increases the level of comfort of your boating life.
So, even if you are looking just for a portable water maker or portable desalination kit for your boat, Blue Gold small marine water maker ZERO 12V 50 l/h is an alternative option worth considering.
Of all the water makers for sailboats available on the market, the Blue Gold ZERO sailboat watermaker stands out as very good value for money – excellent 12V watermaker price!
Pump | Model | l/h | Membranes | Volt-Ampere | Notes |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
ZERO Brass 1x2540 | 50 l/h. | 1 Membrane 2540 | 12V-40A | Length of the Vessels = 115 cm | |
ZERO Brass 2x2521 | 50 l/h. | 2 Membrane 2521 | 12V-40A | Length of the Vessels = 70 cm | |
ZERO INOX 1x2540 | 50 l/h. | 1 Membrane 2540 | 12V-40A | Length of the Vessels = 115 cm | |
ZERO INOX 2x2521 | 50 l/h. | 2 Membrane 2521 | 12V-40A | Length of the Vessels = 70 cm |
Permeate flow given at 25° Celsius and 32000 PPM salinity at 60 bar working-pressure. A variation +/- 10% of the production is to be considered as normal. |
Scope of Delivery – Boat Desalinator 12v DIY Watermaker ZERO | |
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High Pressure Pump + Motor with Vibration Dampers | YES |
Feed Pump | YES |
Single Prefitration System | YES |
Activated Carbon Filter for Rinse Water | YES |
Vessel Rack in Composite + Reverse Osmosis Membranes | YES |
High Pressure Regulator fastened to the Vessel Rack | YES |
Pressure Regulating Valve (pressure regulator for water) | YES |
Digital High Pressure Gauge with Pressure Switch | YES |
Freshwater Flowmeter | YES |
3-way Valve for flushing | YES |
Box with 2 switches for the pumps | YES |
High pressure hose (from the pump to the vessels) | YES |
All the Hydraulic Fittings needed for the installation | YES |
Owner’s Manual 12V watermaker – Blue Gold sailboat water makers | ON LINE |
NOTE: ‘All in One’ touch screen water maker control panel is not included in this DIY Watermaker Kit Blue Gold ZERO.
NEW on our Blog: Learn why traditional boat watermakers with the high pressure water pump (like our Blue Gold Watermakers) win over Energy Recovery System water makers .
Weight | 40 kg |
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Boat Watermakers series “Just Water” 230 Volt 0,75 kW – 60, 80, 100 l/h – PRO VERSION
plus Shipping Costs
Boat Watermakers series “Just Water” 230 Volt 2,2 kW – 200-250 l/h – PRO VERSION
Boat Watermakers series “Just Water” 12-24 Volt – 60-80-100 l/h – LIGHT VERSION
Boat Watermakers series “Just Water” 230 Volt 1,5 kW – 90 and 150 l/h – PRO VERSION
Boat Watermakers series “Just Water” 12-24 Volt – 60-80-100 l/h – PRO VERSION
Boat Watermakers series “Just Water” 230 Volt 0,75 kW – 60-80-100 l/h – LIGHT VERSION
Boat Watermakers series “Just Water” 230 Volt 1,1 kW – 75 and 120 l/h – PRO VERSION
Water Makers for Boats series ”Just Water” 230 Volt 2,2 kW – 200-250 – Light VERSION
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Learn how watermakers work, their benefits, and the factors to consider when choosing the best one for your sailboat. Compare the features and specifications of five popular watermaker models on the market.
Learn how marine watermakers work, what benefits they offer, and how to choose the right one for your sailboat. Compare seven models of sailboat watermakers with pros and cons, prices, and power consumption.
In our tests, its 1/18-hp. motor drew 4.8 amps, producing about 1.6 gallons per hour, consuming 39 watts per gallon of water. It is very compact, and like all PUR watermakers, easy to service and operate. At 72 dB, its noise level was the equivalent of the quieter large 12-volt machines.
Learn how marine watermakers use reverse osmosis to turn seawater into freshwater for your boat. Compare different models and features of watermakers for small, medium and large yachts.
Since all of the watermakers that are currently available for cruising sailboats use this process for desalination, the major differences between the systems are how you power the high-pressure pump and the user interface. Powering options include 120/220-volt AC, 12- or 24-volt DC and engine/belt driven. All have their pros and cons.
Katadyn-owned Spectra produces a wide range of watermakers, from the hand-operated Survivor 06 to a commercial AC model capable of producing 10,000 gallons per day. The most suitable units for cruising yachts are its DC/AC-powered Ventura, Catalina and Newport models, offering production rates of between 6.3 and 41gph.
1. Katadyn Power Survivor 40E Watermaker Desalinator. Small yet powerful, the Katadyn Power Survivor 40E is a reliable workhorse designed for boats with a small crew population of 2 to 3. This modular unit provides 1.5 gallons of water per hour, and draws only 4 amps from a 12-volt system, making it one of the most energy efficient desalinators ...
In terms of installation, the kinds of watermakers that work best with the typical small or mid-size cruising sailboat are those that are fully modular—i.e., in which the filters, strainers, pumps and semi-permeable membrane are all installed separately in whatever kind of an arrangement suits your boat best.
It's also important to choose a reliable and reputable brand like ECHOTec Watermakers with a good track record of customer support and service. Some of our most popular options for sailboat watermakers include the following: 12/24v DC Economy Watermakers. 12 - 180v DC Watermakers. Belt-Driven DC Watermakers (Modular)
Welcome to SeaWater Pro, the premier provider of high-quality watermakers for boats and portable watermakers for all your marine adventures. Our cutting-edge technology and reliable products will ensure that you have access to clean, purified seawater wherever you go. With our easy-to-use and reliable watermakers, you can say goodbye to bulky storage tanks or worry about running out of fresh ...
Watermakers. Blue Water Desalination offers six distinct lines of watermakers to suit the needs of the most discerning mariners, from the day fisherman up to the long-range sailor and transoceanic yachtsman. Within the six lines, we offer dozens of models of varying capacities in both frame and modular style configurations along with high ...
Running a watermaker while sailing is indeed a viable option, and many modern sailboats are equipped with systems designed for precisely this purpose. The feasibility of operating a watermaker during sailing largely depends on the specific technology employed and the boat's power capabilities.
Rainman Watermakers are a compact system designed to generate a fresh potable water supply from seawater. They can be installed in a minimum footprint configuration or kept portable for maximum flexibility. We use only top quality components in the build process from the best manufacturers: Honda, General Pump, Filmtec, and Noshok.
The ideal watermaker should provide the daily fresh water demand of the boat in about 3-4 working hours. On his turn, the daily fresh water demand is based on the number of people onboard and the type of boat. The typical fresh water demand in a sailing boat if about 30-40 lit/day, whereas it is 50 -60 lit/h in a power boat or catamaran.
We have shortlisted some of the best watermakers for sailboats. These include, The Ultra Whisper, EchotecWatermaker, Spectra KatadynPowerSurvivor, Village Marine - Little Wonder Series, and Ventura 150 Watermaker. So, when it comes to selecting the best watermaker for your yacht, it may all boil down to what works best for you in terms of power ...
Designed for customer installation and ultra-reliable performance, far from factory-trained service centers, the wide product range covers modular AC, DC, and belt-driven watermakers from 8.4 GPH / 32 LPH to self-contained desalination systems with a production of 14.000 gallons or 53.000 liters per day. More than 5,000 ECHOTec desalination ...
A DC watermaker's energy efficiency is the measure of the amount of electricity consumed per unit of fresh water produced. This is a useful number, but its actual importance depends on the boat's entire electrical energy management system. For a boat with limited battery and charging capacity, electrical efficiency may be a paramount concern.
After conducting extensive research and considering various factors such as efficiency, size, and power consumption, I have compiled a list of the top watermakers for sailboats. Whether you're a liveaboard sailor or you enjoy weekend cruises, there is a watermaker on this list that will suit your needs. Types of Watermakers
Last Updated by Daniel Wade, October 1, 2021With the right Watermaker, the ocean becomes an almost immeasurable supply of fresh and clean drinking water to keep you hydrated during your offshore sailing adventures.Many sailors do spend a lot of their time and money on various parts of the sailboat including the sails, engine, electronics, and generators especially when preparing for long ...
Advantages of this watermaker are the quiet operation and simple control and operation. The filtration process of the Ultra Whisper is also based on reverse osmosis process. Quiet water production. Available in 12VDC and 24VDC. Water production: 768 to 2,280 litres per day. Ideal for small leisure boats.
A Schenker watermaker will allow you - whether you own a yacht, a sail boat or any vessel - to extend your cruising duration and increase your independency from marinas, thus enjoying more time at sea. Schenker's three-years warranty is backed up by our international network of sales and service representatives. RANGE: 30 LIT/H.
A Rainman watermaker turns salt water to fresh, drinking water! The watermaker needs two things to work: a raw water source, like the sea, and a power source, which on a sailboat is typically your batteries and solar panels. You can get watermakers that run directly off the 12VDC / 24VDC your batteries provide, or from your inverter at 120VAC ...
Great value for money sailboat watermaker supplied as a DIY Watermaker Kit. In the Blue Gold ZERO series Watermakers you will find only the essential components of a well-functioning reverse osmosis desalination plant. The required power is very low, only 450 Watt (less than 40 Amperes) and you can produce freshwater without the need of a generator or a big alternator on the engine of the boat.