hunter sailboat motor mount

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Installing Motor Mounts

• By Steve D'Antonio
• August 31, 2022

It comes as a surprise to many boat owners that the only thing transmitting thrust from the propeller to the vessel’s hull, moving the hull forward, is the motor mounts. And, that the only connections between the prop and the hull are four ½-inch or 5⁄8-inch studs. A great deal of faith must be placed in those studs, so it’s worth making sure they are properly installed and maintained. 

And not just because they transmit thrust. A motor mount also absorbs vibration and torque, using a rubber or synthetic material as the medium. It’s difficult, if not impossible, to design and construct a motor mount that does all three tasks equally well.  

Absorbing vibration requires a softer durometer, while transmitting thrust and contending with torque requires a more robust durometer. The engine wants to counter-rotate in the opposite direction from the prop, which means the mounts on one side of the engine are compressed more than those on the other side. In some cases, the mounts on one side might actually be lifted, which means they are in tension rather than compression. For this reason, some engine manufacturers specify different durometer mounts for left and right.  

Taking these variables into account, most mount designs must represent a compromise across the range of use.

Commonly, the cause of motor-mount failure is related to installation and the length of exposed stud. Ideally, motor mounts should not be adjusted to the limit of their travel, up or down. Motor mounts are the primary mechanism for adjusting engine location relative to the propeller shaft, otherwise known as alignment. The coarse adjustment should be performed by the boatbuilder or engine installer using shims, or by removing some of the stringer to depress the mount.  

The goal is to get the engine bracket, which connects the engine to the mount stud, somewhere in the middle of the coarse-adjustment range. Then fine adjustment takes place, with the engine being moved a small distance up or down. If the engine is at the top of the stud’s adjustment at the end of this process, the leverage imparted to the stud can lead to its failure. If the engine is at the bottom of the stud’s travel, no further adjustment is ­possible—a potential problem for future alignment.  

Fasteners used to secure the mount’s base to the stringer or shelf on which it rests should be a through bolt, machine screw or lag bolt, in that order. Through bolts offer the greatest security. Machine screws that are screwed into a tapped metal plate embedded into the stringer are a close second, although if they strip, repair can be difficult. Lag bolts are less than ideal because their coarse threads are engaging fiberglass and likely timber, which can fracture or strip if overtightened. And, if the timber gets wet, it will rot, allowing the fastener to pull out.

The fasteners should be the same diameter as the hole in the mount base. There should be no slop or play. If there is, the engine might shift fore and aft when changing gears. Because of the cyclical and reversing nature of loads on mounts, fasteners are prone to loosening. Nylon insert locking nuts or cam-style lock washers should be used to ensure their security. Mounts should be aligned parallel to the vessel’s centerline, and studs should be perpendicular to their base. If twisted, the life of the flexible inserts can be severely shortened.  

Motor mounts should be inspected regularly. The studs and the shell (or cap) are usually mild steel, so they should be corrosion-inhibited. Check all adjustment and mounting hardware, making certain it is tight; you’ll need to put your fingers on each one to do this. If you see any indication that the mount base is sliding, that’s cause for concern.  

Finally, look for signs of deteriorating flexible insert material, which will often show up as black dust or “crumbs” around the base of the mount.

Steve D’Antonio offers services for boat owners and buyers through Steve D’Antonio Marine .

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Hi all. Got a lead on a 87 Hunter 23. Fin keel. Heard lots of negative opinions here about both Hunters, and fin keels. Aside from all that, what else would steer me away from a Hunter? Just looking for a decent weekender for Tampa Bay, and maybe trips along the Gulf coast. Thanks, Steve  

It's possibly too late to help you but I'll make a quick response. I purchased a Hunter 23 wing keel last summer, even though I was prejudiced against Hunters from things I'd read. I like mine a lot more than I expected. It handles nicely, no heavy helm, never tried to "round up" while I was sailing. Comes about easily and quickly. Moves well in light airs. Has good sail controls. Lots of nice design touches. Some cheaping out, like portlights with no exterior trim. Excellent interior space and makes good use of it. Surfing down some very large waves from directly astern felt unstable and needed careful attention at the helm, but that is about normal in my experience. An excellent coastal sail boat. Built light for trailering and mast stepping. The light mast has a hinged tabernacle and drops toward the stern, fairly easy to step and unstep with gin pole and sway control - hook a block to the mooring pin, and run line back to the winches in the cockpit. The "Ken's Trailer" trailer is not well fitted to the boat, at least not mine. Make sure you get a trailer with either brakes or a square plate at the ends of the axle by the wheel where brakes can be added. Make sure the boat is tight against the bow stops. There should be support under the bow, mine was too short so I shimmed it with wood. I'm half done making an extension for it. I should probably write a review in the Hunter section, so anyone can find the info.  

I'm surprised this post didn't get more replies. Hunters seem to have a bad reputation because, apparently, in the late 80's and early 90's, some of their boats weren't well made. By that, I mean they didn't sail well, and the equipment was either undersized or inexpensive components that were prone to fail. However, the "Cherubini-erea" Hunters, and some of the more recent ones, consistent get positive reviews. They aren't typically seen as ocean-crossers (especially the smaller boats), but they are good for their purpose, coastal sailing. Are they made to the same standards as an Island Packet? No. But you'll pay a lot less, and still have a sailboat that gets you from Point A to many Point B's. It's kind of like a car - if you buy a Honda Civic, you know you're not going to get the same "stuff" as in a Maybach or even a Lexis. What you will get, though, is a decent car at a fair price, and it will get you from Point A to Point B. You may not get there as fast, and you may not be as comfortable when you get there as you would have in another vessel/vehicle, but, in most peoples' opinions, that's still beats walking, or never getting to Point B at all.  

Hello - I bought a Hunter 23' wing keel that had been sitting in a yard for 10+ years. Sails are shot, and running rigging is toast. Is anyone able to help with what line does what? Is there a site explaining the line functions? She has a mast and port/starboard cockpit winches, but I have no idea how it all works. I sail a Montego 19, she's very basic and was in sailing condition when I bought her. I'm a year into sailing, and I want to get the Hunter going so I can sell the Montego, but I'm stalled out. Thanks!  

Clarks Hill Windbag said: Hello - I bought a Hunter 23' wing keel that had been sitting in a yard for 10+ years. Sails are shot, and running rigging is toast. Is anyone able to help with what line does what? Is there a site explaining the line functions? She has a mast and port/starboard cockpit winches, but I have no idea how it all works. I sail a Montego 19, she's very basic and was in sailing condition when I bought her. I'm a year into sailing, and I want to get the Hunter going so I can sell the Montego, but I'm stalled out. Thanks! Click to expand...

I had a H23 and loved it! It just wasn't the size I really wanted. The H23 is a real sailboat. It's not a bad boat either. Only issues I had were the need to backplate the outboard mount, and the mast was difficult for 2 people to handle.  

Clarks Hill Windbag said: ...Thanks - I get "halyards" but this boat has a roller furl jib, and 3 small lines in the boom (Outhaul, ???,???). It looks like it had lazyjacks? from the odd small lines with knots on either side of the main. I just have no clue how it was originally rigged. Click to expand...

there was an out haul yes. most likely reefing lines. in the boom. Launching our Hunter 23 for Spring 2013! - YouTube Some good close ups here.  

I bought a hunter 23 last fall. It is of the fixed wing keel design. I paid $2600. My previous boat was a Hobie18, and I sail in Lake Michigan. Even with 4 years of sailing hobie cats(2) & sunfish. I can't really compare. However I will tell you what I know after sailing about 10-15 times this year including my first race. The boat heels easy, but when it does it feels safe. I had 3 experienced sailers tell me its a good boat at good deal. They both all "more serious" boats, Erikson 27 & 35 foot racing boat, & 35 foot center cockpit cruiser. All have sailed many years(some 15) so there opinion was sound. Below are just minor stuff to look out for. None of them made me regret buying it. The trailer is minimal. Some dont' have rollers under the bow. This is a necessity. Otherwise it puts all the bow weight on the kiel and lots of friction to winch up. Not easy to launch. I had to add an 8' extender. When putting the mast down it will hit the hatch lid before tilted all the way down. Best to unsrcrew the white hatch from the hinges. The marina tech told me its a trademark of these boats to see hatch pinch damage here. My mast has more backward rake then most boats at marina when walking down docks. This is a function of the fiberglass molding. Don't be alarmed or try to overcorrect. if you try to pull it too far forward you are pulling on the base step. The swept back spreaders are crappy design in terms of the sail hits them when sheeted out. The interior is very nice. Very large for what it looks like outside. Add a plate or rot resistant backer behind the outboard bracket and rudder bolts. Factory stuff is not sufficient and stress cracks will develop. Replace lights with LED. The "O" & point bulbs don't make good contact. Especialy on the mast where its difficult to get at. Don't think pulleys on top are robust enough for bosuns chair. Some of the keel bolts they cheated and used steel & are rusty but no leaks and solid hull. Great first sailboat. Wouldn't sail across Lake Michigan. Wouldn't sail in over 20knot gusts. But fine for daysailing or 7-20 mile away overnights. The electrical switches are very long and break off if you hit them exiting/entering the cabin. Make sure you get the longest shaft motor or check mout height if adjustable as it cavitates in waves coming into the harbor. My motor mount hits the prop if outboard is turned extreme left and rudder extreme right. PO added aftermarket motor mount- the original failed or wasn't good enough.  

I agree with skygazer. The pdf hunter 23 manual also "vaugely" shows the "quick" reefing system for the foot of the 1st reef grommet. The description below is much better. This is a tangent... but maybe helpful to someone... when I bought the boat all the lines had been pulled out of the boom except the SS wire outhaul for the foot of the sail. I especially wanted the reef line restored. Getting the line through the boom looked tricky at first glance. You have two small holes at each end & 9 feet of hollow between. My boom caps were screwed on with SS bolts(glad not riveted) so I took off both ends. Then I and straightened, flattened & twisted together 3 steel coat-hangers together & electrical taped the 1/4 line around the end & use the hanger snake to feed the wire through the 8-9 foot length. If you have a real wire snake use that. On the mast end, make sure you thread the rope above the cam clamp, over the top of the pulley and down the pulley toward the mast. If there's nothing to compare it to its not obvious. The hole above the clamp where the line goes into the boom is not visible  

I got one as my first boat with little to no experience on a lake with regular 25-40 knot winds. I have made some substantial sailing mistakes and haven't demasted or sunk it yet. Sure have learned a lot about how to not sail though.  

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The Best Outboard Motor for a Sailboat

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

The technology of sailing has remained mostly unchanged for centuries. Since learning to harness the power of wind, sailors have been transiting the world’s oceans, expanding trade routes and exploring new cultures. Although nothing more than a renewable natural resource and a single sail is needed to move a sailboat along the water, there are times when it’s important (and in our modern age, convenient) to leverage off a motor to get you where you need to go.

Like any unique piece of equipment in the world of sailing, outboard motors come in a variety of sizes with features and options to fit any owner’s needs. But of course, one size doesn’t fit all. Every boat is different – even those that come off the production line at the same time – and every owner is looking for something specific when it comes to their sailboat. From the purpose of owning the boat (blue water sailing vs. racing) to the location and impact on maintenance (cold weather vs. tropical weather), an outboard motor is just one of the many elements that will define a sailboat’s function and performance.

Whether you’re a new owner, or a veteran sailor, it’s important to know the basic components of any outboard motor . You should also have an idea of what you want your outboard motor to do for your size and model sailboat.

Table of contents

Outboard Motor Size

A larger boat doesn’t necessarily mean a larger motor. Although there are different ratings for different classes of boats, a small power plant can be more effective than a larger one. Conversely, an outboard motor can easily overpower a small boat and create unsafe conditions at high speeds. Guidelines and requirements differ between motorboats and sailboats. And while there is some overlap, these considerations apply directly to sailboats.

Engine power has to do with how much water a boat displaces. For sailboats, smaller is better. If you’re a bit of a math geek, the exact formula is 4 horsepower for every 2200lb of weight. Coupled with a propeller size, which can be determined using a propeller calculator , you’ll get a rough estimate to use as a guideline to start shopping. This is a good first step, since size is essentially a fixed variable. Though it’s worth noting for those who are buying a sailboat directly from the manufacturer, that actual weight will increase after delivery – once all other rigging and outfitting has been completed.

Physical size of your outboard motor is an important consideration and is directly related to the design of your sailboat. An outboard motor is made up of three parts from top to bottom:

• The Powerhead – Houses the engine. The bulbous part of the motor.
• The Midsection – Houses the exhaust system. Varies in length and design.
• The Lower Unit – Propellers attach to the gearbox. Submerged when operational.

Shaft length is an important design element and should be considered when purchasing a motor. A shaft that is too short will obviously prevent the propeller from being submerged in water, while a shaft that is too long will extend the propellers too far. Not only will it decrease the efficiency of your engine, it will create unnecessary drag. Know your transom length when looking at different models.

When an outboard motor is not being used, it should be stowed in its upright position. Some of the larger motors have an automated switch that will raise it out of the water, but some must be secured manually. Make sure everyone who sails with you is capable of lifting and securing the motor out of the water in case of an emergency.

Outboard Motor Power

Any kind of motor installed on a sailboat (inboard or outboard) should be viewed as a tool to help with maneuvering. Although there are some very skilled sailors out there who can sail into their slip without the aid of a motor, many harbors have restrictions that either don’t allow for the use of full sails, or there simply isn’t enough room to maneuver. A motor with both forward and reverse gears helps tremendously with docking.

While there is no exact correlation between boat length and total weight, the following is a rough guideline:

• 1-4 HP for boats up to 20’ (approximately 1000-2000lbs)
• 4-18 HP for boats between 20-30’ (approximately 2,000-10,000lbs)
• 18-34 HP for boats between 30-40’ (10,000lbs or more)

There are some things to consider when deciding how much horsepower you need or want. Location and the type of conditions you expect you’ll be sailing in is one of the biggest factors. Heavy seas and high winds typically associated with open ocean sailing will put more strain on your engine, and in some cases overpower it, whereas an engine that is heavier than needed will add unnecessary weight when racing. If you plan on motoring for long distances, consider purchasing an engine that will stand up to a lot of use.

Less HP is required for:

• Boat Design – Single hull boats made out of fiberglass require less power.
• 2-Stroke Engines – This is due to an overall lighter weight engine and higher torque.
• Diesel Engines – Diesel delivers more torque because the rate of compression is greater.
• Bigger Propellers – More surface area means more water displacement.
• Location – Motoring on lakes and rivers requires less power than open ocean.
• Distance – A smaller engine is suitable for shorter distances.

More HP is required for:

• Boat Design – Catamarans and heavier boats (regardless of size) require more power.
• 4-Stroke Engine – Engine weight and an extra step of compression yields less power.
• Gas Engines – The rate of compression for gas engines is much lower than diesel.
• Smaller Propeller – A smaller propeller displaces less water.
• Location – Open ocean, with tides and currents, will strain a smaller engine.
• Distance – Cover more distance when wind conditions are poor requires a larger engine.

Outboard Motor Cost

There is no way to quantify how much you will pay for any given motor. But there are several costs associated with owning an outboard motor that are definitely worth considering when making your purchase.

Certainly, a lager, more-powerful engine is going to be costlier than a smaller engine with lower horsepower. But as mentioned earlier, size is not necessarily a guarantee of performance and efficiency. At the same time, there’s only so much you can get out of an engine before you exceed its capability. Larger engines tend to help with resale value should you choose to sell your boat at some point, but a boat outfitted with right motor to begin with will always perform better than a motor that’s large just for the sake of it.

Factor in maintenance costs and fuel when looking at models. You want to run your engine at around 90% of its max RPMs to balance proper fuel usage and with wear and tear. Making a few calls to marine mechanics to inquire about an engine you’re interested in will give you a lot of information a sales person won’t be able to give you. The good news about outboard motors is that most of them are portable, which means you won’t have the added cost of either paying a mechanic to come to you, or having to get your boat to the yard, which usually requires help from a very good friend willing to spend all day driving and sailing back and forth.

Owning a boat requires constant care and maintenance, so a little knowledge goes a long way. While an outboard motor is not required for sailing, it’s a convenient addition that can greatly increase your enjoyment out on the water. Being patient and spending time researching engines will not only help you make the correct purchase but will help you take advantage of a great deal when it presents itself. Whether you sail the Caribbean, or race off the coast of California in a catamaran, there is an outboard motor that’s just right for you.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Hunter - Sailboat Data, Parts & Rigging

Sailboat data directory for sailboats manufacturer or named Hunter. Follow the provided links for additional sailboat data, parts and rigging specs.

Sailboat Data directory for over 8,000 sailboat designs and manufacturers. Direct access to halyards lengths, recommended sail areas, mainsail cover styles, standing rigging fittings, and lots more for all cruising and racing sailboats.

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Our 40 year heritage of design innovation, rugged construction, and dedication to customer value has made us the leader in the North American manufacturing of sailboats and sailing yachts. Whether you’re a blue water sailor, a coastal cruiser, or a small-boat energy enthusiast, we have the boat for you.

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Multi-Mounts & Trolling Motor Mounts

Panther’s Multi-Mounts offer the strength and flexibility to mount your sonar, GPS, or other electronics anywhere in the boat for easy reading. Specifically designed to eliminate drift with unmatched stability, these mounts firmly support the heaviest electronic equipment. This unmatched holding power is achieved with the patented universal ball locking device making them impervious to vibration. 

Panther mounts give you a 360 degree full hemisphere of possible positions whether mounting on the deck, gunnel, console or on a rail. (Panther Universal Rail Mount Kit available) 

Trolling Motor Mount

SKU: 950210 

• With Panther’sTrolling Motor Mounts, you can easily secure your bow-mount trolling motor to prevent damage in transport or when boating at high speeds.
• Panther’s Trolling Motor Mounts can be mounted anywhere in the boat and quickly positioned for securing the trolling motor. They give you a 360 degree full hemisphere of possible positions.
• Panther Multi-Mounts feature a universal ball locking device with a “select position” locking knob.
• Trolling Motor Mounts are made out of rust-resistant stainless steel for fresh and saltwater fishing.
• An “Allen Wrench” easily removes your Trolling Motor Mount for security, transport, or storage.

 TOTAL HEIGHT = 10″

Trolling Mounts

950304 multi mount.

SKU: 950304

The 950304 is our lowest profile model at only 4” off the mount surface. This allows you to mount your electronics in the tightest spots!

Multi Mounts

950305 nylon composite electronics mount.

SKU: 950305

The 950305 is constructed of nylon reinforced composite making it our lightest and most affordable electronics mount yet. It features the the unmatched strength and durability that Anglers Pal mounts are known for at a very affordable price! MT4 models are our lowest profile units which allows you to mount your electronics in the tightest spots! Comes complete with stainless steel mounting hardware.

950308 Multi Mount

SKU: 950308

• Machined Aluminum and Stainless Steel
• Overall length: 8 in

950310 Multi Mount

SKU: 950310

• Overall length: 10 in

Spare Base Plates, 2-3/4″

9550003 Anodized aluminum. For all mounts excluding AP-100.

9550003NYL Nylon composite. 

9513003 Chrome-plated steel. For AP-100.

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Sevylor FH 360 front trolling motor mount

• Thread starter escapewithromeo
• Start date Nov 29, 2011

escapewithromeo

• Nov 29, 2011

Hello plp. I am David from spain. (excuse me for my english) I have a FH360 customized with floor and a trusted 32 lb (with the stuff for that). I cheked that the sevylor fh360 can mount a 3cv/+/- 3hp 4 stroke motor and i have a question. Anyone have done a front trolling motor support in this boat?. We go to fish 3 plp arround 200-240 Kg weight plus 2 motors + floor + stuff... Maybe is a little overweight?. Otherwise. I see that the sevylor trolling motor of 18lb uses a little holes in the front of the boat to support the trolling but this kind of support system isnt stable imo. Any ideas?. Anyone DiY the front mirror in this boat?. Tyvm for all plp. Ty for this forum and for all coments in sevylor floorboard. ty another time and sorry for my suck... english.  

• Nov 30, 2011

Re: Sevylor FH 360 front trolling motor mount Sevylor FH 360 front trolling motor mount up  

Re: Sevylor FH 360 front trolling motor mount sorry for duplicate. internet connection error.  

• Dec 2, 2011
• Dec 5, 2011
• Dec 28, 2011

Re: Sevylor FH 360 front trolling motor mount Well maybe nobody done it before. When i done it myself i show all the proccess. Ty otherwise. cya  

• Jan 27, 2012

• Feb 10, 2012

Re: Sevylor FH 360 front trolling motor mount escapewithromeo, I have extensive experience with boating / fishing using this exact boat and eventually found a Sevylor Fish Master FM325 that is far better and more usable with both a transom-mounted gas outboard and bow-mounted trolling motor. I use mine regularly on Lake Grapevine in Texas and can go anywhere (even pack it all up or put it on our RAV4 roof rack)! Sevylor actually makes a special mount to use with your Fish Hunter series boat to use a trolling motor on the bow. Here's the link to this mount on a site who operates the Sevylor Outlet site as well http://www.shipstore.com/SS/HTML/SEV/SEVMMPR.html Too bad you spent so much time trying to make one! Just remember this rule of thumb about boats and other vehicles (if you can't buy accessories for them - don't buy them to begin with!) You really need to find both the camo boat boot and OEM floorboards if you want to really enjoy this boat with some usability. The quality of this boat is rather poor compared to their previous models (such as the FM325) which are discontinued as of 2010. Also to note, the Sevylor trolling motor works perfectly with this mount provided you only plan to use it on the bow. Enjoy, Brian Tate Tate Concepts  

• Feb 23, 2012

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Hunter 260 Engine Mount Fiberglass Cracks

• Thread starter philiefay
• Start date Sep 13, 2021
• Tags cracking fiberglass repair h260 hunter motor mount motor mount outboard mount
• Forums for All Owners
• Trailer Sailors

I am wondering if anyone has any advice on how to resolve the issue I am having. I have a Mercury 9.9HP mounted on the H260 mount. and noticed a hairline crack that has grown on my past 3 day trip. At one point the tilt ratchet on the outboard was not clicked in properly and once I started sailing it slipped/ dropped causing a shock and no doubt expediting the cracking. I made a temporary fix using a ratchet strap. Once I pull her out the water (and make any repairs) I will fabricate a stainless steel bracket with a rubber shoe to prevent a reoccurrence and relieve some of that stress. Anyone any insight into the threaded insert strength and if this will require major excavation and reinstallation of the treaded inserts?  

Attachments

Do you really think it's threaded inserts? If it is drill them up and place a large backing plate inside the transom with through bolts.  

Crazy Dave Condon

@LeeandRick May I handle? 260 is up my alley. @philiefay Can you send me your name and phone number if In the US via forum email. Former dealer much involved with the 260 Dave  

I have reached out here but privately without a response. I helped to designe this boat which was unusual for a dealer  

See this link for a potential permanent repair strategy: Repairing Fiberglass Powerboat Transoms - Epoxyworks  

@sail sfbay Under the area is an encapsulated piece of aluminum. I have requested the owner to contact me as there are vital questions I have to ask to determine what the physical damage is as I know that area of construction. I did send a private message to him but nothing. Probably I am the best to respond to his question. He so far has yet to contact me or even respond back to this thread. It is up to him. He may have gone to the Facebook 260 but who knows. I was involved with the design of this boat. It is up to him at this point.  

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