rolex yachtmaster vintage

Saturday, October 10, 2020

The Complete History Of The Rolex Yacht-Master

The Complete History

Yacht-master.

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A Week On The Wrist The Rolex Yachtmaster 40mm With Oysterflex Bracelet

For the first time, rolex is delivering a watch on a rubber strap – except in classic rolex fashion it's not a rubber strap at all. it's a beautifully over-engineered bracelet called the oysterflex..

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There is big news, and there is Rolex big news, and in some ways, ne'er the twain shall meet. At Baselworld this year, Rolex debuted a first for the company: the very first, ever, Rolex delivered on a rubber strap. Now, for most companies this would have little effect on watch enthusiasts other than to evoke (very) tepid interest at best, and boredom at worst – but this is not an ordinary rubber strap, this is an official, designed-and-tested-and-thoroughly-obsessed-over-by-Rolex rubber strap. And thereby hangs a tale.

The Yachtmaster, as we have mentioned in some of our previous coverage , occupies a somewhat particular place in Rolex’s lineup of sports watches; it shares water-resistance and a turning bezel with the Submariner (the latter is water resistant to 300 m while the Yachtmaster standard model is water resistant to 100 m). It is certainly not a tool watch; the Yachtmaster is offered in either platinum and steel, or gold and steel (that’s Rolesium and Rolesor, lest we forget) and is either quietly or unequivocally luxurious depending on what size and metal you go for (Rolex makes the Yachtmaster in both 35 mm and 40 mm sizes).

The Yachtmaster’s history goes back to the first introduction of the watch in 1992, although the name, interestingly enough, appears on the dial of a prototype Yachtmaster Chronograph from the late 1960s (a watch so legendary I am actually forced to use the word; one of three known is in the collection of Mr. John Goldberger; we covered it – and a host of other remarkable ultra-rare watches from his collection – in a very memorable episode of Talking Watches ).

The term “Yachtmaster” is also, incidentally, used for a certificate of competency in yachting which is issued by the Royal Yachting Association, although we’re unaware of any specific association between the RYA and the Yachtmaster watch.

Now, this newest version of the Yachtmaster does take a few pages from the existing Yachtmaster playbook: 100-meter water resistance, a bidirectional turning bezel, and a dial and hands that echo the Submariner. There are also a couple of features that may make vintage Sub enthusiasts wonder if Rolex mightn’t have an exceedingly subtle sense of humor; the gilt coronet and “Rolex,” and the red lettering, both features which according to HODINKEE founder Ben Clymer would have, had they appeared on a Rolex dive watch, made it instantly the single most popular watch in the modern Rolex inventory. The case is rose gold – Rolex famously makes their own, called Everose, in their own foundry, with a bit of platinum mixed in to prevent discoloration – and the bezel, rather than being some other precious metal (as is the case in the “standard” Yachtmasters) is in black Cerachrom – a very technical-looking matte black that contrasts sharply with the gold case. Somehow, between the rose gold, the Cerachrom bezel, and the new Oysterflex bracelet this manages to be the most luxurious and at the same time most technical Yachtmaster yet (leaving aside the Yachtmaster II, which we recently reviewed right here , but that is a watch that marches to the beat of a different drummer entirely).

The two different versions of the Everose Yachtmaster (40 mm and 37 mm) sport different movements; the larger uses the caliber 3135 and the smaller, the newer 2236, which sports the “Syloxi” silicon balance spring (first used by Rolex in 2014).

The Oysterflex bracelet is, in a nutshell, quite a piece of work. One of the most endearing traits of Rolex as a company is that it tends to demonstrate what we can only describe as a laudable degree of corporate obsessive-compulsive disorder when it comes to research and development, and it does so, often, without making any sort of fanfare about it at all. In this case we do know a little bit about the Oysterflex, however – it is basically designed to have the hypoallergenic and comfort properties of a rubber strap and the durability and shape-retention properties of a bracelet.

At the core of the Oysterflex bracelet are metal inserts made of titanium and nickel, which are used to affix the bracelet to the clasp and watch case; over those is a sheathing of “high-performance black elastomer.” “Elastomer” is a portmanteau word, formed from “elastic” and “polymer” and is a general term for natural and synthetic rubbers. In addition to the materials complexity of the Oysterflex bracelet, it is also shaped in a rather unusual fashion – there are ridges molded into the the wristward face of the bracelet, which are intended to allow the bracelet when worn to better approximate the natural curvature of the wrist.

They might look a bit odd but in practice, the design works out quite wonderfully; this is easily the most downright comfortable and organic-feeling rubber strap I have ever worn, and like the entire watch manages to be both extremely technical in feel, and very luxurious at the same time; I doubt whether any company has ever taken so much trouble over the design of a strap (for all that Rolex prefers the term “bracelet” in describing the Oysterflex, habit dies hard and you’ll probably find yourself calling it a strap, just as we did). On the wrist, the two stabilizing ridges do exactly what they are supposed to: keep the watch from shifting, as heavier watches on rubber straps are wont to do, without requiring you to have the strap uncomfortably tight. The Everose Oysterlock clasp does a superb job mechanically and also looks fabulous into the bargain; the quality of finish on the clasp and case may not seem terribly elaborate at first, but it is as technically flawless as anything I have ever seen at any price, on any watch.

What we have here, in other words, is a very Rolex interpretation of luxury. Yes, this is a gold watch, and a gold Rolex, and wearing a gold Rolex always carries with it, shall we say, certain semiotic complexities. However there is also another side to the watch, and to the Rolex approach to luxury in general: the taking of such pains to produce technical perfection that technical perfection becomes a luxury in itself.

The Everose Rolex Yachtmaster, in Rolex Everose, with Everose Oysterclasp and Oysterflex bracelet, as shown, $22,000 in 37 mm, and $24,950 in 40 mm. For more info, check out Rolex.com.

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Used Rolex Yacht Master

At Gray & Sons, we have an impressive collection of certified, authentic, preowned watches and fine jewelry pieces. Currently, as we witness the harmful effects of a throwaway culture we are proud to be a company that believes in restoring antique pieces and turning them into like-new conditions. Extracting gold and other prized minerals have environmental and social repercussions, hence acquiring pre-owned watches and jewelry pieces is the most sustainable way to achieve a noble elegance. Obtain a piece of history; explore our professionally curated selection of pre-owned Rolex watches below. Gray and Sons is #1 for buying Rolex Yacht Master ( 16628 ), Rolex Yachmaster 2 ( 116688 ) buyers, selling Rolex Yacht Master and repairing Rolex Yacht Master.

#1 Rolex Yacht Master I ( 16628 ) and Rolex Yachtmaster 2 ( 116688 ) Buyers Many people say, I want to sell my Rolex Yacht Master watch for cash. Grayandsons.com and sellusyourjewelry.com will buy your timepiece for cash. Gray and Sons has the Rolex Yacht Master used, new and certified authentic pre-owned. We have the largest inventory in stock of used and pre-owned Rolex Yacht Master, Rolex Explorer , Rolex Submariner , Rolex Day-Date , Dayjust, Rolex Sky-Dweller , Rolex Daytona and more. When you purchase a new or used Rolex Yacht Master you can choose from a variety of colors such as stainless steel and gold. We have Rolex Yacht Master in 29, 35mm, 40mm and 44mm. You can choose from gold dials, white dials, silver and stainless steel dials, navy blue, blue, and charcoal colored dials. The Rolex Yacht Master comes with a Military Time hand or GMT hand that goes around once every 24 hours. Get your new and pre-owned, used, authentic Rolex Yacht Master near you at Gray and Sons near Bal Harbour shops in Surfside, Miami Beach, Florida. We sell high end used watches and jewelry. Countless people near me say, “I want to sell my Rolex Yacht Master watch for cash.” Gray and Sons and sellusyourjewelry.com will buy your Rolex Yacht Master wristwatch for cash.

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Rolex Watch Yacht-Master 40mm

Rolex Watch Yacht-Master 29mm

Rolex Watch Yacht-Master II 44mm

Rolex Watch Yacht-Master 35mm

Rolex Watch Yacht-Master 34mm

Rolex Watch Yacht-Master 42mm

Rolex is a symbol for the prestigious, it is the epitome of style and elegance. Rolex Watches are reliable because they are durable and made to last. Each watch is carefully designed by the most skilled and meticulous craftsmen, reflecting more than a century of innovation. Engineering, design, and functionality converge to materialize these timeless and sophisticated wristwatches.

Rolex Yacht-Master Prices

On our page, you will always be able to compare the retail price versus our Gray & Sons sales price. As portrayed on our site, you will see that our prices will help you attain the elegance you desire at an economical amount. You can also make small monthly payments over 12, 24, or 36 months with Affirm.

Pre Owned Rolex Yacht-Master

Rolex yacht master watches are created and designed for sailing, yachting, and aquatic ventures in general. They are waterproof and resistant to pressure, so if you go scuba diving you can rely on any sports watch in the Rolex yacht master collection to program a countdown, and to track your time descending to make sure you have enough time to ascend with the necessary oxygen to do so.

Rolex released the oysterflex bracelet yacht master II for those who spend most of their time at sea, and need a reliable time-piece to gauge their course of time in order to conduct efficient navigation.

Having a sturdy watch is essential whilst navigating; sailors must be prepared to endure waves crashing on board and have a hardy time-piece that can undergo physical impact in case it gets knocked off when the craft is facing tumultuous weather. Whether you are deep-sea diving, water skiing, sailing, or lounging on the beach you can depend on Rolex for durability, water-resistance, and elegance.

Rolex Yacht-Master 40mm 16623

This original yacht master is made out of stainless steel with yellow gold. It resonates harmoniously with the sea, due to the refined dial made from Mother of Pearl. An array of small diamonds also form part of the dial, so you can tell the time in the most elegant way possible.

Rolex Yacht-Master 34mm 168623

This Rolex watch is essential for captains, sailors and those who engage in all nautical endeavors alike. Use it to gauge your best course of action for a regatta or for cruising on your sailboat along the coast. The blue hue of the dial will tone beautifully with the color of the deep blue sea while you are out on the water. While you are on land, this watch will keep reminding you to return to the sea, for the white spheres that represent the numbers for you to tell time, mimic the same color and luster of pearls.

Rolex Yacht-Master 40mm 16622

If you are not a big fan of rose gold, you will love this Rolex yacht master composed of stainless steel and platinum. This watch will make a wonderful addition to the Rolex collection in your closet. It is minimalistic and simple, for those who prefer a humble yet tasteful style. Owning a Rolex watch means having a watch for life, these timepieces are built to last, we guarantee you will be able to pass it on from generation to generation making this watch generate sentimental value over time.

Rolex Yacht-Master 44mm 116688

This Rolex is not only an instrument of time but also a chronometer, designed to keep accurate time in spite of mobility or variants in temperature, moisture, and pressure. Ideal for marine navigation, this Rolex Yacht-Master will meet all your needs and expectations whilst out on the sea. The 18k gold and blue accents make a striking yet attractive contrast. This Rolex watch is a true work of art in technological design and aesthetics.

Rolex Yacht-Master for Sale

Gray & Sons is a sustainable brand that sells the finest watches available in the market. By reselling and fixing pre-owned watches, we have the lowest impact on the environment compared to other jewelers. We see value in adhering to a fix-it culture rather than a throwaway culture.

We support brands like Rolex that are environmentally aware. We find their dedication to professional craftsmanship and the art of making elegant, durable watches honorable. At Gray & Sons, we believe there is nothing more beautiful than fixing antique jewelry and preowned watches, to us these used watches are time capsules that symbolize the style and technology of previous times. Owning a vintage Rolex watch is to own a piece of history.

If you have any questions or comments, reach out and contact us ! Our customer service team is ready and patiently waiting to assist you with anything you might need, whether it is purchasing a gift card or to find the perfect white gold accessory for your loved one. Our experts know exactly how to help.

Used Rolex Yacht Master II Watches | Buy Sell Repair | Gray & Sons Jewelers

The Rolex Yachtmaster: history, models, price

Rolex Yacht-Master Dix Millionieme Chronometre 9

Table of Contents

(NEWS) The Monaco Legend Group will auction a one-of-a-kind Rolex Yacht-Master

The rolex yacht-master dix millionieme chronometre.

The Yacht-Master auctioned on April 22 and 23 in Monaco is one of the most attractive one-of-a-kind contemporary Rolex watches and popped up in the early nineties to celebrate the ten-millionth Rolex watch equipped featuring the Chronometer Certificate.

Rolex Yacht-Master Dix Millionieme Chronometre 3

Interestingly, it is not a Daytona, a Submariner or a Day-Date but a Rolex Yacht-Master, thus adding additional flavour to our guide as no other model could ever do. May we call it the Rolex Yacht-Master Heiniger ? Yes, we might, but we need to move forward and provide further details.

The Heiniger family and Rolex

The model pictured here was manufactured under the Heiniger family’s leadership at Rolex; they managed the brand since Andre Heiniger was appointed President of Rolex in 1964 through his son Patrick’s appointment in 1992.

Rolex Yacht-Master Dix Millionieme Chronometre 1

This one-off platinum Yacht-Master is a prototype conceived to celebrate such a milestone and holds all the features found on first-class super-exclusive Rolex timepieces, and adopts baguette-cut sapphires and diamonds replacing the stock indexes plus the “DIX MILLIONIEME CHRONOMETRE” print on the dial, and the calibre 3135’s oscillating mass.

Rolex Yacht-Master Dix Millionieme Chronometre 7

The Heiniger family had, no doubt, a soft spot for platinum watches ; three unique platinum Daytona also appeared under their management and, according to industry’s rumours, the Daytona 116598 SACO, better known as the Leopard, was among their projects inspired, it seems, by Nina Stevens, Patrick Heiniger’s girlfriend back then.

Rolex Yacht-Master Dix Millionieme Chronometre 8

However, the Rolex Yacht-Master Heiniger is not a unicorn adorning a watch museum ; it will soon go under the hammer thanks to the Monaco Legends Group, the auction house co-managed by vintage watchmaking guru Davide Parmegiani, the 22 and 23 April.

Rolex Yacht-Master Dix Millionieme Chronometre 5

Given the relevance of the timepiece and its exclusivity, we expect fierce competition among collectors to make this piece theirs. What is the auction’s base price? The current estimation is between one and two million euros , quite a hefty price gap but something hard to predict for any watch expert.

The origins of the Rolex Yachtmaster

When did the Rolex Yachtmaster first appear? It’s hard to define. The name “Yacht Master” was filed for patent by Rolex in 1950 and, according to rumours and several non-confirmed historical sources, marked the brand’s willingness to introduce a new collection atop the top-selling and sporty Submariner; yet, it’s hard to describe the time lapse between patent and the first official commercial release. When we look at the current collection, we can also find inspiration in the most challenging endeavours across the oceans, up to professional yacht racing.

For instance, the former includes the expeditions set out by Sir Robin Knox-Johnston . He completed the first-ever solo circumnavigation of the globe, the Sunday Times Golden Globe Race of 1969, but we can’t forget what Sir Francis Chichester achieved, too; he circumnavigated the world from West to East in nine months and one day between 1966 and 1977 aboard the never-forgotten Gipsy Moth IV.

During his expedition, Chichester wore a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Chronometer, laying the foundations for what a Rolex watch represents when tested under extreme weather conditions on land, sea and air.

The first Yachtmaster

The first Rolex Yachtmaster dates back to 1992 ; it was marketed as reference 16628 and is the second most recent new Rolex watch after the more contemporary Rolex Sky-Dweller.

The collection’s timeline has undergone a bizarre evolution compared to similar Rolex watch collections.

Showcasing an 18-carat yellow gold case and bracelet paired with an unusual white dial , it housed the movement 3135 and is undeniably an evolution of the design codes seen on a Submariner, despite the journey to the first edition being unexpected and with plenty of testing prototypes.

Was the Yachtmaster pictured above the first attempt ever? It was from a commercial standpoint, not from a product perspective instead. The Yachtmaster moniker first surfaced between 1967 and 1969 when Rolex released a couple of prototypes based on the Daytona , whose case diameter had grown to 39.5 mm. The timepieces mentioned above belong to Italian collector John Goldberger and artist Eric Clapton.

The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 and 37 mm

Here is the Yacht Master’s “bread and butter”, undergoing several evolutions to end up with the model pictured here, as an example, in its gold and steel livery. With Jean-Frèdèric Dufour appointed CEO, Rolex has revisited the entire offering, which includes 40 and 37-mm large models, but has never hit the spot as the most wanted Professional Rolex among enthusiasts. The Daytona , Submariner, or GMT Master 2 are far more sought-after than any Yachtmaster, although the appreciation has steadily grown year after year .

Instead, the Yachtmaster’s technical development began with the 2007 Rolex Yacht-Master 2 116680 , whose sailing-professionals-oriented complication proves, alongside a Rolex Sky-Dweller, how much Rolex technicians are up to the task when asked to design a mechanically complicated watch.

Rolesor and Rolesium.

The current Yachtmaster collection with bracelets includes a completely revised range, comprising seven models : four 40 mm and three 37 mm models. They are available exclusively in steel and gold or platinum; some come in Rolesium (steel and platinum), others in Rolesor (steel and gold) such as, for instance, the Rolex Yachtmaster 40mm model in steel and Everose gold pictured here, also available with a black dial and as a 37mm size.

Let’s look closer at the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 in Steel and Everose Gold : it combines 904L steel and Everose pink gold, the Rolex-patented pink gold alloy adopting a specific silver and copper percentage to create an alloy capable of offering above-the-average shine, and wear resistance over time.

The Yachtmaster’s bezel

What makes the Yacht-Master unique is the bezel’s design in finish and functionality; it houses mirror-polished raised indexes and numerals on a sandblasted base and comes as a one-piece of gold or platinum. The polished to brushed finish appears on the Oyster bracelet and case sides, lugs included.

The Yachtmaster is widely considered a more luxurious take on the Submariner and a transition model between a sporty and classic Rolex watch with a gold case, as proved by the slightly curved lugs and the case side, making the Yachtmaster closer to four and five-digit Submariners as less professional than other timepieces belonging to the same product category, as exemplified by the specs sheet. The bezel is graduated but is bidirectional and water-resistant up to 100 metres .

Comparing current and first-ever Yachtmaster like the Rolex 69623 or 169622, for instance, lies in the options available: you’ll find the blue dial exclusively available on Rolesium models, while the Rolesor offers a chocolate brown or black dial , lovingly contrasting the case and bracelet’s tones, in our opinion.

The calibre 3235

Since 2019, the Rolex Yachtmaster has housed the latest-gen Rolex calibre 3235. Therefore, all models can run for at least 70 hours when fully wound.

The watch is certified as a Superlative Chronometer according to Rolex standards.

The calibre 2236

Instead, the 37 mm model adopts the smaller movement 2236, whose technical specifications differ slightly .

The main difference is that the Siloxy hairspring with a flat terminal curve , introduced by Rolex in 2014, replaced the Parachrom Blue one.

The Rolex Yachtmaster Oysterflex

At Baselworld 2015, Rolex released the first Yachtmaster with an Oysterflex bracelet , the brand’s patented rubber strap equipped with an inner nickel and titanium alloy, exclusively offered with a 40mm or 37mm gold case. Looking back at the first-ever YM, the Yachtmaster Oysterflex is perhaps the perfect successor to the 1992 Yacht Master.

rolex yacht master 40 oysterflex ref 126655

The first release appeared in Everose rose gold. Such a new generation best embodies the collection’s spirit ; it belongs to the Professional line of watches but is more luxurious, and gold highlights the Yacht Master’s “carrure”.

The new Yachtmaster Oysterflex also introduced the first-ever matte ceramic bezel ; it mimics a Rolesor or Rolesium’s, but the inlay is a single piece of matt black ceramic.

As with the two-tone models, the 40 and 37-mm case options adopt the 3235 and 2236 , respectively. The new model had a stunning success, and Rolex soon expanded the product range by offering a more generous 42 mm case size (however, the 40 mm model is unparalleled, in our opinion).

The 42mm collection is available in yellow or white gold , while the 40mm and 37mm models only come with an Everose rose gold case. We think Rolex will soon extend the Oysterflex collection by adopting new case materials.

rolex yacht master 42 titanio ben ainslie

In 2020, Ineos Britannia’s skipper Ben Ainslie was spotted wearing a titanium Yachtmaster 42 during a training session. After the Rolex Deepsea Challenge Titanium RLX ‘s unveil, this proto will likely make it to reality anytime soon.

rolex yacht master 42 ref 226659 occhio di falco

Before moving to the next chapter, remember that we discovered an odd model while surfing the Rolex official website: Rolex Yachtmaster 42 Hawkeye or Yachtmaster Falcon’s Eye , pictured above.

The Rolex Yachtmaster 2

Rolex is a manufacturer whose capabilities include rather mechanically-complicated watches ; it is something most people are unaware of. In the same price range as a Daytona, for example, you can opt for at least two complicated models: one is the regatta-ready Yachtmaster 2.

If an ordinary Yachtmaster is not as “professional” as its siblings, the Yachtmaster 2 is a full-fledged tool watch for professional skippers.

The complicated Rolex: from the Sky-Dweller to the Yacht-Master 2

The Rolex Yachtmaster 2 is bold and hefty; it’s a regatta timer and something you will, on paper, disregard when compared to a Rolex Sky-Dweller. The Rolex Yachtmaster 2 was conceived to provide professional skippers with a wrist instrument capable of accurately measuring the countdown to start a regatta.

The link between Rolex and yachting is long-established: the brand has associated its image with several sailing competitions like the Farr 40 or the Sidney–Hobart ever since. Pictured below is a map of the current partnerships.

The 5 to 10 minutes preceding the start of a regatta are paramount to any skipper and their crew; last-minute performance before the start is triggered can separate victory from defeat.

Most Regatta watches do not offer a dedicated function but make the most of ordinary chronograph functions. In contrast, the Rolex Yachtmaster II has a dedicated counter on the dial, coaxial to the bezel, equipped with a graduated scale from 0 to 10 minutes and an easy-to-read arrow hand.

The Countdown function: how to activate it.

The timer setting is straightforward and achieved by combining the bezel, crown and button at 4 o’clock in this sequence. The first operation is to rotate the bezel counter-clockwise to activate the small countdown counter adjustment system.

The bezel will automatically lock after a 90° rotation or when the “Yacht-Master II” writing appears on the right-hand side of the watch (the rotation axis of the crown ideally cuts the wording in two halves). Subsequently, please push the button located at 4 o’clock. Unscrew the crown until it locks in position 1 ; from that moment on, you can control the adjustment of the (jumping) 10-minute scale in one-minute intervals by rotating the crown clockwise.

After stopping the minute counter on the desired value, you need to rotate the bezel clockwise until it clicks into the position where the “Yacht-Master II” writing is again aligned at the bottom (-90 °, back to the original place).

At the end of this rotation, the two-minute scales, located on the bezel and the dial, respectively, will be fully aligned. By screwing back in the winding crown, you can restart the countdown (using the button at 2 o’clock); the red hand in the middle will start running, and the minutes’ countdown will begin .

During the countdown, you can stop the hand can by using the button at 2 o’clock or re-set the complete countdown with the button at 4 o’clock (Flyback). The countdown will start from the original position in the second case scenario. When the countdown has finished, the minute’s hand will also stop, while the second’s hand will continue to run indefinitely. The Rolex Yachtmaster II is a chronograph with a Flyback function .

The 2017 Rolex Yachtmaster II 116680 reference has replaced the previous reference by introducing a series of updates ; the new version is now equipped with Mercedes-styled hands, thus aligning itself with the family feeling of the other Oyster Perpetual divers, like the Submariner. Moreover, new applied indices located at 12 and 6′ clock have been launched (arrow-shaped and rectangular-shaped, respectively).

Ring Command and calibre 4161

The Ring Command bezel is integrated with the calibre and is an active part of the user experience. The level of complication and perfection this mechanism requires (firm clicks and no play) is more challenging than any other Rolex timepiece, making this watch extremely attractive.

At the same time, as per the usual Rolex tradition, the complication is concealed through a simplified aesthetic , although the dial is still more complex and crowded than those standards that Rolex has made us accustomed to, and this is one of the reasons why a Rolex Yachtmaster II is rarely a first choice when it comes to selecting a timepiece.

Rolex Yachtmaster Prices

The price list starts with the Yacht-Master 37 mm at 14,450 Euros and grows to the 43,800 Euros needed for a Yacht-Master 2 model in yellow gold . For instance, a more exclusive price list is requested, as with the reference 126655. The listed price range here is updated to February 2023; if you’re looking for a more comprehensive overview, please head to our dedicated article; there, you’ll find a price list and evolution since 2021 regarding the most coveted professional Rolex watches.

(Photo credit: Horbiter®)

Editorial team @Horbiter®

Giovanni Di Biase

Rolex Yacht-Master II Introduction

The Yacht-Master II was released in 2007 with its signature regatta timer complication. It is the younger, bolder sibling of Rolex’s Yacht-Master that debuted in 1992. While the original Yacht-Master displays similarities to the ever-popular Rolex Submariner , the Yacht-Master II is in a class of its own, both visually and mechanically.

Rolex Yacht-Master II History

The Yacht-Master II was purpose-built for competitive sailors. The tool watch’s boldly designed case houses a programmable countdown timer that is controlled by rotating the bezel. Large and attention-grabbing, the Yacht-Master II presents a design aesthetic that pushes the boundaries of what a Rolex can be.

First introduced in 2007, the Yacht-Master II was offered in yellow and white gold variations under references 116688 and 116689 , respectively. An Everose gold/steel two-tone Rolesor version (ref. 116681) was added in 2011, followed by the stainless steel reference 116680 two years later. With a case size of 44mm that rises 13.9mm on the wrist, the Yacht-Master II commands attention on the wrist both from owners and observers. The bold bezel houses a platinum- or gold-filled blue Cerachrom ceramic insert with a 10-minute scale above the words “Yacht-Master II.” This was no ordinary bezel, however.

Deemed the “Ring Command” bezel by Rolex, it is directly connected to the watch’s mechanism to program the Yacht-Master II’s 10-minute countdown timer. During the 10-minute interval leading up to the start of a regatta, sailors jockey to position their crafts as close to the starting line as possible. Precision is key since crossing the line early results in a penalty and being too far out puts the boat at an immediate disadvantage. The exclusive Yacht-Master II complication allows a sailor to program the countdown, store it in the mechanism and synchronize to the official race countdown on-the-fly

The Yacht-Master II’s characteristics have been relatively stable since the watch debuted. Its case is free of sharp edges and perfectly cradles the Triplock crown and subtly detailed pushers. The matte white dial offers outstanding legibility for contrasting elements. Hours are marked by luminous rectangular shapes with a triangle marker at 12 o’clock on models produced after 2017. With that refresh, Rolex also updated the straight hour hand with the familiar Mercedes style that appears on other Rolex Professional watches. A small second register at 6 o’clock and the countdown timer indices that arc gracefully from approximately 8 o’clock to 4 o’clock complete the look.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Features

The Yacht-Master II’s power is produced by Rolex’s in-house designed and manufactured calibre 4161 COSC-certified automatic movement. Comprised of roughly 360 individual components, the Cal. 4161 features a 70-hour power reserve, flyback and fly-forward chronograph functionality, anti-magnetism and shock-resistance and, of course, Rolex’s patented 10-minute countdown timer.

The watch is unapologetically large with a 44mm case that measures a massive 57.4mm end-link to end-link. Details include a screw-down case back and protected Triplock crown flanked by delicately etched pushers. The Oyster case is water resistant to 100 meters. The Yacht-Master II’s Oyster bracelet is a classic Rolex three-piece design with polished center links, satin sides and Oysterlock safety clasp. An Easylink extension allows a rapid 5mm adjustment to the bracelet length without the need for tools.

Yellow Gold

White gold + platinum, two-tone rolesor (everose gold + steel).

The Yacht-Master II’s color palate and design evoke nautical themes that are inspired by the presence of red and blue accents. In the dark, luminescent Chromalight hands and markers glow with a vibrant blue that lasts up to eight hours. The timer markings, however, do not have lume.

The Yacht-Master II is available in four materials: yellow gold, white gold + platinum, two-tone Rolesor (Everose gold + steel) and steel. All are topped by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal that is surrounded by the Yacht-Master II’s Ring Command bezel in solid platinum or with a blue ceramic insert.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Value and Collectability

The Yacht-Master II is a bit of an outlier in the Rolex family. It is visually imposing and technologically advanced, but Rolex purists opine that it does not deliver the classic Rolex experience of more traditional sports models like the Submariner, Sea-Dweller or Explorer. For collectors and enthusiasts seeking a rare timepiece that stands out from all other Rolex designs, the Yacht-Master II is an excellent choice. Retail prices for new Yacht-Master II models range from approximately $19,000 for steel to nearly $50,000 for the luxe white gold/platinum edition.

Pre-owned Rolex Yacht-Master IIs in gold or platinum with original papers and boxes typically sell well below retail, though prices on used steel versions trend just slightly below new. Many Rolex aficionados consider the Yacht-Master II to be undervalued in the used Rolex marketplace and firmly expect that it will emerge as a highly prized collectors watch.

Watchmaker’s Perspective

The regatta countdown timer function on the Rolex Yacht-Master II is a fascinating feature that gets a lot of attention. And the Caliber 4161 movement used to power the Yacht-Master II is extremely complex, with over 360 parts. But how are those parts made? From the watchmaker's perspective, the manufacturing technology used to create such a complicated movement is especially intriguing.

For the Caliber 4161, Rolex made extensive use of LIGA technology. LIGA is a German acronym meaning Lithographie, Galvanoformung, Abformung (Lithography, Electroplating and Molding). The LIGA process allows parts to be manufactured that would have been nearly impossible with traditional methods, due to their shapes.

The LIGA process is closely related to semiconductor manufacturing and uses similar tools. A patterned mask is used to project UV light onto photosensitive resin at a very high resolution. This creates a micro-mold, which is then used to grow parts inside of. When the metal parts are completely grown, an acid strips away the photosensitive resin, leaving the finished part. This technology is opening up new avenues to watchmakers—one example is the fantastically complex Caliber 4161 in the Rolex Yacht-Master II.

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Yacht-Master | Rolex Watch Collection

1,165 MATCHES FOUND

Yacht-Master

Rolex Yachtmaster Rose Gold Steel Rolesor Mens Watch 126621 Box Card

Rolex Yachtmaster Platinum Dial Steel Mens Watch 16622 Box Papers

Rolex Yachtmaster 40mm Rose Gold Diamond Dial Mens Watch 116655 Box Card

Rolex Yachtmaster Platinum Dial Steel Mens Watch 116622 Box Card

Rolex Yachtmaster II 44 Steel Blue Cerachrom Bezel Mens Watch 116680

Rolex Yachtmaster Rhodium Dial Steel Platinum Mens Watch 116622 Box Card

Rolex Yachtmaster Platinum Dial Bezel Steel Mens Watch 16622

Rolex Yachtmaster Steel Yellow Gold Slate Dial Ladies Watch 69623

Rolex Yachtmaster 40mm Rose Gold Oysterflex Bracelet Mens Watch 116655 Box Card

Rolex Yachtmaster Steel Platinum Blue Dial Mens Watch 126622 Box Card

Rolex Yachtmaster Platinum Dial Bezel Steel Mens Watch 16622 Box Card

Rolex Yachtmaster 40mm Yellow Gold White Dial Mens Watch 16628

Rolex Yachtmaster 29 Steel Yellow Gold Champagne Dial Ladies Watch 169623

Rolex Yachtmaster Steel Platinum Blue Dial Mens Watch 116622 Box Card

Rolex Yachtmaster Steel Yellow Gold Ladies Watch 69623 Box Papers

Rolex Yachtmaster Platinum Dial Steel Mens Watch 116622

Photo of Rolex Yachtmaster 40mm Rose Gold Oysterflex Bracelet Mens Watch 116655 Box Card

Rolex Yachtmaster 37 Rose Gold Rubber Strap Mens Watch 268655 Box Card

Rolex Yachtmaster Steel Platinum Bezel Rhodium Dial Mens Watch 126622 Box Card

Rolex Yachtmaster Rose Gold Steel Rolesor Mens Watch 126621

Rolex Yachtmaster II Steel Rose Gold Mens Watch 116681

Rolex Yachtmaster Steel Yellow Gold Mother of Pearl Mens Watch 16623

Rolex Yachtmaster 37 Midsize Steel Rose Gold Mens Watch 268621 Box Card

Rolex Yachtmaster 29 White Dial Steel Yellow Gold Ladies Watch 169623

Rolex Yachtmaster 29 Yellow Gold Blue Dial Ladies Watch 69628

Rolex Yachtmaster 29mm White Dial Steel Yellow Gold Ladies Watch 69623

Rolex Yachtmaster 40 Rose Gold Steel Brown Dial Mens Watch 116621

Rolex Yachtmaster 29 Yellow Gold White Dial Ladies Watch 69628

Rolex Yachtmaster Yellow Gold Mother of Pearl Diamond Sapphire Serti Mens Watch 16628

Rolex Yachtmaster Midsize Yellow Gold White Dial Mens Watch 68628

Rolex Yachtmaster Steel Platinum Blue Dial Mens Watch 126622

Rolex Yachtmaster Steel Yellow Gold Slate Dial Mens Watch 16623 Box Card

Rolex Yachtmaster Steel Platinum Bezel Rhodium Dial Mens Watch 126622 Card

Rolex Yachtmaster 40 Rose Gold Steel Black Dial Mens Watch 116621 Unworn

Rolex Yachtmaster White Gold Oysterflex Bracelet Mens Watch 226659 Box Card

Rolex Yachtmaster 37 Rose Gold Rubber Strap Mens Watch 268655 Unworn

Rolex Yachtmaster II Steel Rose Gold Mens Watch 116681 Box Card

Rolex Yachtmaster Steel Yellow Gold Mother Of Pearl Ruby Dial Mens Watch 16623 Box Card

Rolex Yachtmaster II 44 Blue Cerachrom Bezel Steel Mens Watch 116680

Rolex Yachtmaster Steel Yellow Gold Champagne Dial Mens Watch 16623

Rolex Yachtmaster Midsize Yellow Gold Blue Dial Mens Watch 68628

Photo of Rolex Yachtmaster Steel Yellow Gold Slate Dial Mens Watch 16623 Box Card

SwissWatchExpo ARCHIVE - RECENTLY SOLD

Rolex Yachtmaster 35 Midsize Steel Platinum Mens Watch 168622

Rolex Yachtmaster Midsize Steel Yellow Gold Mens Watch 168623

Rolex Yachtmaster II Regatta White Gold Platinum Mens Watch 116689 Unworn NOS

Rolex Yachtmaster II 44 Blue Cerachrom Bezel Steel Mens Watch 116680 Box Card

Rolex Yachtmaster Midsize Steel Yellow Gold Mens Watch 168623 Box Papers

Rolex Yachtmaster 35 Midsize Steel Yellow Gold Slate Dial Mens Watch 68623

Rolex Yachtmaster 29 Steel Platinum Dial Bezel Ladies Watch 169622

Rolex Yachtmaster Steel Yellow Gold Diamond Sapphire Serti Mens Watch 16623 Box Card

Rolex Yachtmaster 29 Yellow Gold MOP Diamond Dial Ladies Watch 69628 Box Papers

Rolex yacht-master collection.

The Rolex Yacht-Master collection embodies the relationship that Rolex has formed with the world of yachting. Precision and excellence are essential when navigating the open seas, and the Yacht-Master’s reliable, waterproof, and robust qualities make it the perfect timepiece for the sport.

While the original Rolex Yacht-Master is a stylish and ultra-luxurious accessory for boating enthusiasts, the Yacht-Master II brings together the best of Rolex technology to accurately time regatta races. Whether you’re lounging on a boat, or racing one, there is a Yacht-Master watch for your every need.

The Rolex Yacht-Master is the brand’s most diverse collection of sports watches, available in a wide variety of sizes, metals, bracelets, and bezel materials. Explore our wide selection of Rolex Yacht-Master watches at SwissWatchExpo.com.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE ROLEX YACHT-MASTER COLLECTION

Although the Yacht-Master collection was not introduced until 1992, the relationship between Rolex and the world of sailing dates to the late 1950s.

With the invention of the Oyster, the world’s first waterproof wristwatch case, Rolex had already built a reputation for making excellent waterproof watches since the 1920s. In 1958, Rolex entered a partnership with the prestigious New York Yacht Club, a social and boating club which sponsors an annual regatta.

By 1966, Rolex solidified its ties to the world of sailing when Francis Chichester – one of the world’s pioneering aviators and solo sailors – became the first person to sail around the globe, all while wearing a Rolex on his wrist. He sailed on his yacht, the Gipsy Moth IV, from August 1966 to May 1967, taking him 29,600 miles around the world. What made his journey even more impressive is that he had limited access to tools in navigating his journey, having only a few nautical charts, a sextant, and a Rolex Oyster Perpetual to keep time.

Even with its proven success at making watches suited for sailing, Rolex never got around to creating a watch specifically for this category. The brand did make a prototype of the Cosmograph chronograph with the name “Yacht Master” on its dial, but they ultimately decided not to bring it to market. Only two known examples of the Cosmograph Yacht Master are known to exist, one of which was owned by singer Eric Clapton and sold at auction in 2003.

Almost three decades later in 1992, Rolex finally introduced the modern Yacht-Master - the brand’s first luxury sports watch built for the open seas. Whereas Rolex’s previous sports watches had utilitarian themes – the Submariner for diving, the Daytona for racing, and so on – the Yacht-Master was focused on aesthetics and luxury. To drive this home, the first ever Rolex Yacht-Master was forged in solid 18k yellow gold, from its bi-directional rotating bezel to its Oyster bracelet.

Over the next few decades, Rolex gradually expanded the Yacht-Master collection to include larger sizes, new metals such as steel, platinum, white gold, and Everose, and incorporated new materials like the Cerachrom ceramic bezel and the Oysterflex rubber bracelet. In its relatively short history, the Rolex Yacht-Master has become one of the most varied collections among Rolex sport watches.

Fifteen years after the launch of the Yacht-Master, Rolex introduced its bigger sibling, the Yacht-Master II. While the original Yacht-Master was luxury-oriented, the latter was a purpose-built watch especially designed to time regatta races.

The Yacht-Master II was unlike anything Rolex had launched before. Not only was it massive with its 44mm case, but it also had a bold, visually striking design that stood out among Rolex’s catalog of versatile timepieces.

On its debut, it also instantly became Rolex’s most complicated watch. To cater to its niche market, Rolex equipped the Yacht-Master II with innovative features like a regatta countdown timer (to accurately measure time until the start of a race), and a flyback and fly-forward functionality (to easily synchronize the time should the race officials have to restart the race).

The Rolex Yacht-Master II is only available in one size, a 44mm case with an Oyster bracelet, but is available in a variety of metal alloys.

The Rolex Yacht-Master and Yacht-Master II continue to be part of Rolex’s catalog and serve as the embodiment of the brand’s relationship with the world of sailing.

KEY FEATURES OF THE ROLEX YACHT-MASTER

The Rolex Yacht-Master collection is composed of two families of watches: the original Yacht-Master, and the Yacht-Master II. While these two models have the same name, they are quite different from each other.

The Yacht-Master was introduced in 1992 as an ultra-luxurious sports watch for yachting and sailing enthusiasts. The nautical-inspired timepiece takes after the Rolex Submariner, but with greater emphasis on luxury materials and aesthetics.

The Yacht-Master II is a relatively new addition to the Rolex portfolio, introduced in 2007. Much larger that the Yacht-Master at 44mm, it is a purpose-built regatta watch equipped with a countdown timer for use in competitive sailing.

FEATURES OF THE ROLEX YACHTMASTER

Rolex yacht-master design.

Rolex Yacht-Master models come in an Oyster case with 100 meters of water resistance, a Triplock winding crown, and a bi-directional rotating bezel with raised 60-minute graduations and numerals. To make the watch easily readable, the dial features lume-filled round, baton, and triangular hour markers; luminous Mercedes-style hands, a date window at 3 o’clock, and a sapphire crystal with a Cyclops lens for easier reading of the date.

Since the introduction of the first all-gold Rolex Yacht-Master model in 1992, Rolex has expanded the line in terms of materials, aesthetic details, and mechanical upgrades. Here are the options available within the collection.

ROLEX YACHT-MASTER SIZES

The Yacht-Master line is one of the most varied Rolex collections due mainly to the number of sizes made available. The smaller sizes, particularly the Lady Yacht-Master models, have been discontinued, but are still available in the pre-owned market.

29mm (discontinued)
35mm (discontinued)

ROLEX YACHT-MASTER MATERIALS

The solid 18k yellow gold and two-tone models of the Yacht-Master have been discontinued and replaced with the Everose and White Gold versions. The 37 and 40mm sizes come in Everose, Everose Rolesor, and Rolesium metals, while the 42mm comes exclusively in White Gold.

Yellow Gold (discontinued)
Yellow Rolesor (Steel and Yellow Gold - discontinued)
Everose Gold
Everose Rolesor (Steel and Everose Gold)
Rolesium (Oystersteel and platinum)

ROLEX YACHT-MASTER BEZELS

The bezel material used for the Yacht-Master depends on the metal or alloy used for the case.

Matte Cerachrom bezel – 18k Everose and white gold models
18k Gold bezel – Rolesor steel and gold models
950 Platinum – Rolesium steel and platinum models

ROLEX YACHT-MASTER BRACELETS

The Rolex Yacht-Master has only been equipped with the three-link Oyster bracelet and the Oysterflex bracelet, which combines rubber with an internal flexible metal blade. The Oysterflex can only be found on the solid 18k Everose and white gold models with matte ceramic bezels.

ROLEX YACHT-MASTER MOVEMENTS

The Yacht-Master uses a time-and-date movement that changes depending on the size of the watch. Below are the movements used for each size.

29mm - Caliber 2135; Caliber 2235
35mm - Caliber 2135; Caliber 2235
37mm - Caliber 2236
40mm - Caliber 3135; Caliber 3235
42mm - Caliber 3235

FEATURES OF THE ROLEX YACHTMASTER II

Rolex yacht-master ii design.

The Rolex Yacht-Master II is one of the brand’s largest watches. Each model comes with a 44mm Oyster case that is water resistant to 100 meters, a Triplock winding crown, a Ring Command Bezel, two chronograph pushers, and an Oyster bracelet.

It is also one of Rolex’s most complicated watches, as it features a regatta chronograph with a countdown that can be programmed from 1 to 10 minutes, allowing yacht racers to accurately time the start of a race. Furthermore, its Ring Command Bezel is more than just a decorative element – it operates in conjunction with the movement and is actually how the user can set the programmable countdown.

ROLEX YACHT-MASTER II MATERIALS

All Rolex Yacht-Master II models come in the same 44mm case size. Models are available in the following metals:

Yellow Gold
White Gold and Platinum
Everose Rolesor (stainless steel and Everose gold)
Oystersteel

The materials used for the bezel differ depending on the material of the case. Below are the available configurations.

Cerachrom Bezel – Yellow Gold, Everose Rolesor, Oystersteel
950 Platinum – White Gold

ROLEX YACHT-MASTER II DIALS

The Yacht-Master II dial is unlike anything seen on other Rolex models because of its niche complication. It features a countdown display which can be programmed from 1 to 10 minutes, and read using the red-tipped arrow hand. Below the hour and minute hands at the center is a running seconds sub-dial. There’s also a red central chronograph hand, which can fly back or fly-forward to its starting position while in motion. It also features 12 square lume-filled hour markers.

ROLEX YACHT-MASTER II MOVEMENTS

The Yacht-Master II is equipped with two of Rolex’s most advanced movements to date, which feature a programmable countdown timer with mechanical memory, and chronograph synchronization.

Earlier models were powered by the 4160, and later models were upgraded to the 4161. The latter is based on the Daytona’s Caliber 4130, which features the same blue Parachrom hairspring for better switch resistance, and offer a 72-hour power reserve.

Ref 116689 - Caliber 4160; Caliber 4161
Ref 116688 - Caliber 4160; Caliber 4161
Ref 116681 - Caliber 4160; Caliber 4161
Ref 116680 - Caliber 4161

ROLEX YACHTMASTER REFERENCE NUMBERS

The table below shows the list of Rolex Yacht-Master and Yacht-Master II references through the years, from older 5-digit references, to the modern 6-digit models.

ROLEX YACHTMASTER II REFERENCE NUMBERS

Rolex yacht-master and yacht-master ii retail prices as of 2024.

See pre-owned Rolex Yacht-Master and Yacht-Master II prices

PRICE TRENDS FOR THE ROLEX YACHT-MASTER AND YACHT-MASTER II

The Rolex Yacht-Master is a luxury sports watch made for nautical adventures. It sits between the mid- to top-tier levels of Rolex price ranges, and this depends on the production year, case size, materials used, and rarity of the model. Explore pre-owned Rolex Yacht-Master and Yacht-Master II prices

EXPERT OPINION ON THE ROLEX YACHT-MASTER COLLECTION

“The Rolex Yacht-Master was designed for the rigors of nautical use with its bidirectional bezel for the Yacht-Master and the regatta timer for the Yacht-Master II. With its elegant yet highly-functional design and use of exclusive materials, it bridges the worlds of sport and luxury.” – Eugene Tutunikov, CEO of SwissWatchExpo

POPULAR ROLEX YACHT-MASTER AND YACHT-MASTER II COMPARISON

Rolex Yacht-Master Everose 126655 and 268655

Both introduced in 2015, the ref 126655 and 268655 marked the first time that the Rolex Yacht-Master was presented in solid Everose gold and an Oysterflex bracelet.

These models have slight but important differences. The former comes in a 40mm case and the latter in a 37mm case. Moreover, they are powered by different movements.

The 40mm edition runs on the ever-reliable Caliber 3235 movement which is used by many of Rolex’s date watches, such as the Submariner and Datejust. The 37mm edition, meanwhile, uses the Caliber 2236 movement, which is found in ladies’ watches such as the Lady-Datejust. They run using different oscillators, with the 3235 using the Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring and the 2236 using the Syloxi hairspring. Both are COSC-certified but the 3235 runs on a longer power reserve of 70 hours (vs 55 hours).

Rolex Yacht-Master Rolesor vs Rolesium

The Rolex Yacht-Master comes in a variety of mixed metals, namely Rolesor and Rolesium. “Rolesor” is a Rolex term that refers to the combination of stainless steel and gold while “Rolesium” refers to the combination of stainless steel and platinum.

The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 and 37mm sizes come in Everose Rolesor (Oystersteel and 18k Everose gold) and Rolesium (Oystersteel and 950 platinum) with Everose gold appearing on the bezel and center links, while platinum appears in a sandblasted finish on the bezel.

To learn more, visit our Rolex Yacht-Master Ultimate Guide .

COMMON QUESTIONS ABOUT THE ROLEX YACHT-MASTER

Built for the sea, but stylish enough for any occasion, the Rolex Yacht-Master is one of the most desired sports watches in the brand’s catalog. Here are some of the most common questions asked about the Rolex Yacht-Master.

WHAT IS A ROLEX YACHT-MASTER?

The Rolex Yacht-Master is a collection of watches built for yachting and sailing. It is composed of two families of watches: the Yacht-Master, a luxury watch designed to be worn on while lounging on a boat; and the Yacht-Master II, a functional sports watch designed to accurately time the start of a regatta race.

WHY IS THE ROLEX YACHT-MASTER SO EXPENSIVE?

As a line of sport watches with special focus on aesthetics, the Rolex Yacht-Master collection evokes an unmistakable sense of luxury than can only be achieved by using the finest materials.

The Rolex Yacht-Master II in particular, is equipped with exclusive functions and features such as the programmable countdown with mechanical memory and the Ring Command Bezel.

The architecture, manufacturing, and innovative features of the Yacht-Master collection make it unique in the world of watches and therefore fetches a higher price tag.

HOW WILL I KNOW IF MY ROLEX YACHT-MASTER IS GENUINE?

A genuine Rolex watch will be beautifully finished and decorated in keeping with the brand’s uncompromising quality standards. If you see any sign of imperfection on the watch, such as misaligned or misspelled text, unfinished surfaces, or wrong engravings and markings, it is likely a fake.

It is always advisable to do research beforehand so you can check if the details on your watch is in tune with the model’s features.

We also advise clients to only purchase a watch from a reputable and trusted dealer, who can provide a guarantee of authenticity on the watch.

IS THE ROLEX YACHTMASTER WATERPROOF?

Rolex Yacht-Master watches are guaranteed water resistant to a depth of 100 meters of 330 feet. The collection was not made specifically for diving, but they come with screw-down crowns and case backs, which protect the movement from moisture and dust that can be encountered with sporting use.

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How Rolex Became King: A Brief History of the World’s Most-Renowned Watchmaker

Rolex became the dominant industrial watchmaker through a series of eccentric, and effective, business practices.

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Rolex Submariner, GMT Master and Daytona

Rolex is the first—and often the only—watch brand people think of when it comes to high-end timepieces. But beyond that instant recognition, Rolex has become a broad cultural touchstone with symbolic meaning and social significance that speaks across cultures.

While such powerful branding may be ineffable on some level, it is possible to pinpoint the visionary strategies that put Rolex on the horological throne. Five of those strategies stand out: Rolex’s technical innovation, marketing é lan, design consistency, financial independence and selective scarcity have generated the company’s global presence in the hearts and minds of billions of people.

Technical Innovations

Demand for Rolex watches rose swiftly, and British taxes on the Swiss movements Rolex used prompted Wilsdorf to relocate the business to Geneva, Switzerland , in 1919. With production costs lowered, Wilsdorf set out to solve the problem of moisture and dust entering the watch case and damaging the movement. The Rolex team came up with a fully sealed watch case, which Wilsdorf dubbed the Oyster , and released it to much fanfare in 1926. During the 1920s this screwed-together device was so innovative that some consumers, who were accustomed to protecting their watches even from rain, were skeptical. It would take some marketing brilliance to convince the general population that the Oyster case was, indeed, waterproof.

An early stainless steel Rolex triple calendar with moon phase.

Interestingly, the Oyster case structure is the reason for the fluted bezel found on so many Rolex models today. That bezel was fluted to receive an interlocking tool used to screw the bezel on and off of the mid-case. The caseback was similarly fluted for the same reasons, but like any caseback, it never became a dominant aesthetic cue. For decades, Rolex’s fluted bezels have served no function, and the fluting itself has become gently flared (more like waves than ridges) to the point where, even if one tried, no tool could interlock. As with other technical innovations from Rolex, the visual impact has long outlived its functionality to become a signature of the brand. Witness a professional tennis match , an international airport clock or a Rolex ad today and you’re guaranteed to see that gleaming fluted bezel doing nothing more than gleam. It’s an interesting case of form outliving function.

Despite Switzerland’s neutrality, WWII was challenging for the Swiss watch industry, and technological innovations aimed at the civilian market were few. Many watch companies retooled to focus on war contracts, which demanded simple, rugged watches for ground soldiers and pilots. Always the maverick with an eye on the long-game, Rolex only supplied a limited number of watches to the British military and otherwise marched forward with innovations for the civilian market. In 1945, Rolex released the Datejust. The Datejust was the first watch to have the date jump instantaneously at midnight, rather than taking hours to turn over as in most mechanical wristwatches. Legend has it that the name comes from the date jumping just before midnight.

The DateJust is arguably Rolex's most recognizable model. These are from 2022.

After the war, Rolex was uniquely poised to supply an increasingly affluent civilian market that wanted futuristic products, and the brand found innovations. Rolex secured the patent for the date magnifier, or Cyclops , around 1950, and it appeared for the first time in 1953 on that year’s edition of the Datejust. To this day, no watch is as instantly recognizable as a Rolex with a Cyclops and a fluted bezel, making the Datejust, Day-Date and Sky-Dweller horological icons. By launching the Cyclops on the Datejust, Wilsdorf literally magnified one modernization with the other, a brilliant marketing move that capitalized on his well-honed instinct for titillating his customers with exclusive introductions.

Marketing Innovations

We can’t quite say that Wilsdorf invented the adventurous and athletic brand ambassador. Cartier’s watches adorned the wrists of famous pilots, and Jaeger LeCoultre’s Reverso were hot on the polo circuit. But Wilsdorf would repeatedly make sure his watches were on the wrists of some of the bravest people that accomplished some of the most daring feats of the day. Specifically, Wilsdorf understood that when someone sets a record, they’re going to make the papers, and setting records was a 20th-century obsession. With Rolex’s decidedly rugged, adventure-ready timepieces—which stood in stark contrast to what most watch brands were producing at the time—Wilsdorf could legitimately equip explorers and daredevils with expedition-ready timepieces.

Consumers were still highly skeptical of the Rolex Oyster’s ability to resist water. Wilsdorf put those doubts to rest by submerging Rolex Oysters in aquariums he had set up in the windows of high-traffic department stores such as Harrods , in London, while ads brought images of submerged Oysters to a much broader international customer base.

Rolex Explorer 1016 remains a legendary reference from the 20th century.

1933 – A Rolex flies over Mt. Everest at an altitude exceeding 33,000 feet with the first team to do so, as part of the Houston Expedition.

1935 – A Rolex sets the world record for land speed at 276 mph alongside celebrity driver Sir Malcolm Campbell. A few months later, he would break the 300 mph barrier at Bonneville Salt Flats, Utah.

1953 – A Rolex accompanies Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on the first successful summit of Mt. Everest. Rolex releases a version of that watch called the Explorer in the same year.

1955 – Rolex watches accompany the first commercial intercontinental flights. Rolex then equips Pan American pilots with GMT Masters.

1956 – US President Lyndon B. Johnson famously sports a Rolex Day-Date, and Rolex advertises heavily around the ensuing association with world leaders.

1956 – The Milgauss is proven to withstand a magnetic field measuring 1000 gauss at the CERN particle accelerator. Ads announcing this were targeted toward engineers and scientists.

1960 – A Rolex Deep Sea Special descends to the bottom of the Mariana Trench aboard the record-setting submarine Trieste , a feat that made the papers worldwide.

1963 – Rolex launches the Cosmograph Daytona, an automotive-specific chronograph, linking the brand interminably with one of the world’s most famous motorways.

1976 – Celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Oyster, the Rolex Awards for Enterprise program is launched to award individuals who make significant contributions to improving the world in arenas from conservation to health. Rolex explains, “The awards were designed to fill a void in corporate philanthropy by supporting exceptional individuals around the world, pioneers who had no or little access to traditional funding and were responding to major challenges with original and innovative projects that advance human knowledge and well-being.”

1992 – Rolex launches the Yacht-Master and begins sponsoring yacht races that draw worldwide audiences to this day.

2002 – The Rolex Mentor and Protégé Arts Initiative is initiated, which sponsors creative individuals in the arts, linking Rolex to a wide swath of artists, musicians, performers and architects. The cultural capital of these affiliations has, no doubt, some value for Rolex, but, as we shall explore below, may be more about fulfilling Wilsdorf’s vision for Rolex to become a true corporate benefactor.

Financial Independence & Not-For-Profit Status

What truly sets Wilsdorf apart from so many founders—and what sets Rolex apart from so many corporations—is that upon Wilsdorf’s death in 1960, ownership of Rolex S.A. (a conglomerate of interlinked sub-companies) passed to the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation (founded by Wilsdorf in 1945), the mission of which is simply to sustain Rolex S.A. indefinitely. Under Swiss law, Rolex does not pay taxes on its $4 billion annu al revenue, and because the corporate entities are private businesses, Rolex is not required to disclose any financial records. This arrangement makes Rolex’s business practices entirely opaque, yet it seems clear that Rolex’s contributions to its various charitable outlets (the aforementioned Awards for Enterprise and Mentor and Protégé Arts Initiative) are significant. Both of those charities are managed by the Rolex Institute, a kind of parent charity that—assuming it is like most other not-for-profits—likely holds a significant endowment into which some portion of that $4 billion in revenue must go. Operational and development expenses would, of course, eat up a significant portion of the annual revenue as well.

Speculation aside, Rolex is uniquely positioned to do nothing more than sustain itself how it sees fit. There is no mandate to grow market share or to increase profits, and certainly, the company’s vision looks far afield of the current financial quarter. By setting up his legacy this way, Wilsdorf’s esoteric entrepreneurial spirit has outlived him, resulting in two business practices that would surely irk quarterly focused investors: ignoring trends and shorting supply.

Design Consistency

Blancpain, which actually issued the first dive watch, the Fifty Fathoms, one year ahead of Rolex, changed up its design according to the trends of the 1970s—a move that eventually shrunk Blancpain’s stature in the dive watch market to the point where the model was dropped from the catalog. In 2007, Blancpain revived the Fifty Fathoms in its original form, and these retro-styled models have now become a catalog staple. Audemars Piguet issued the Royal Oak in the 1970s , setting off a trend for luxurious steel sports watches that saw traditionalists like IWC and Patek Philippe chasing down this emerging market, with the Ingenieur and the Nautilus, respectively. Rolex responded by upping production of the Submariner, GMT Master and Daytona, but adhered to only making incremental mechanical improvements and modest tweaks to the original designs. Trends in dress watches began shifting rapidly in the 1990s, and Rolex did nearly nothing to respond, keeping most models as recognizable as ever.

Selective Scarcity

Perhaps the scarcity of classic Rolex steel professional models on the vintage market has inspired Rolex’s current practice of shorting demand for the modern versions. Or perhaps Rolex, like most luxury brands, is using scarcity to build an aura of exclusivity around their brand. Whatever the thinking, Rolex boutiques are bereft of specific steel versions of their professional models, namely the GMT Master, Submariner, Deep Sea, Explorer II, Sky-Dweller, the Yacht-Master I & II and especially the Daytona—but you’ll have an equally difficult time getting just about any watch from a Rolex dealer without joining a waiting list . The Explorer I and Air-King—often called entry-level Rolexes— are comparatively easy to get, and yet still difficult to find.

In short, Rolex now privileges their most loyal customers (read: those who spend the most), while a newcomer will most likely never get the call. It’s a psychology trick straight out of the Ferrari playbook, and it has only made Rolex that much more desirable among people of all kinds around the world.

It is ironic that Rolex has managed to create the air of exclusivity and luxury around watches that originally had the air of utility; these were tool watches that no well-dressed person in the 1950s and ’60s would wear outside of the job scenario for which these watches were created. It would have been solid-gold Day-Dates and Datejusts that went with a suit or evening gown. The irony mushrooms, as many watch aficionados express boredom with expensive gold Rolexes while heralding anyone who can obtain, say, a recent GMT Master in steel.

Elton John’s Rolex Daytona with a Leopard-print dial

Clearly shorting this market has been working for Rolex, who could certainly bump up production of these models and sell them like hotcakes. But anyone who has walked into an authorized Rolex dealer and asked if they could get a steel Sky-Dweller or GMT Master will experience the ineffable aura of exclusivity that this practice wraps around the retail experience. Further, Rolex fans commiserating about the “unobtainium” watches generates a street-level buzz that most brands only dream of.

It’s hard to imagine that Rolex could get away with not meeting market demand if they were solely beholden to quarterly profits. Wilsdorf’s visionary long-game lives on in this practice, which seems to perfectly embody his innovative methods of generating buzz at any cost. Simultaneously, Rolex’s commitment to its original designs seems to have assured that Rolex watches will never go out of style, even as new materials and technologies slowly make their way into new models. Being eternally in vogue, more than anything, has assured that Rolex will remain king for the foreseeable future.

Allen is Robb Report's digital watch editor. His writing and photography have appeared in Fortune, Hodinkee, WatchTime, International Watch and many others. When he's not obsessing over vintage…

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Rolex Yacht-Master 16622
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Great Rolex Yachtmaster Lady 29mm Steel/Gold Full Set
Vintage Rolex Yachtmaster 168622 Wristwatch
Great Rolex Yachtmaster Lady 29mm Steel/Gold Full Set

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Preowned Rolex Yachtmaster 40mm Platinum & Steel 16622 2002
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COMMENTS

Pre-Owned Rolex Yacht-Master Watches for Sale on Chrono24
Vintage Watches; Chronographs; Diving Watches; Pilot's Watches; Military Watches; Swiss Watches; Affordable Watches; Popular watches - Daily updated; ... 1999 Rolex Yacht-Master 169623 Steel 18K Yellow Gold $ 4,900 + $65 for shipping. US. Popular. Rolex Yacht-Master 40. 2002 Yacht-Master 40mm 16622 Platinum Bezel and Dial
Rolex Yacht-Master Price Guide
The Yacht-Master is a collection in the Rolex brand. Compared to other Rolex collections, it is the 7th most popular, with 13,449 listings in our database from the last 12 months. Watches in the Rolex Yacht-Master collection typically sell for between $4,955 - $39,138 on the private sales market. The most popular Rolex Yacht-Master model is the ...
Rolex Yacht-Master
Rolex and water sports have a connection dating to the 1950s. The Yacht-Master has been sharing the stage with other popular Rolex models like the Submariner and Sea-Dweller since 1992. But unlike its deep-diving brethren, the Yacht-Master is the premier timepiece for skippers.
The Complete History Of The Rolex Yacht-Master
Rolex originally introduced the 40mm Yacht-Master in 1992 it was a Reference 16628 in 18kt gold, with a white dial and 3135 movement, which was the same movement used in the Rolex Submariner. The Yacht-Master had a triple-lock crown, and it was water resistant to 100 meters (10 bars) which is 320 Feet. Essentially, the first Yacht-Master was ...
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Rolex Hands for Yacht-Master 116621 Black Dial Swiss Made Genuine Chromalight. $268.00. Free shipping. ROLEX YACHMASTER LADIES HANDS 169622 PLATINUM. AUTHENTIC LUMINOVA. $220.00. Free shipping.
Rolex Yacht-Master
In 2023, after testing under real-life conditions by acclaimed helmsman Sir Ben Ainslie, Rolex launched a new version of the Yacht-Master 42. It is made of RLX titanium, a high-performance material, at once light, robust and corrosion resistant. A veritable ally at sea, the Yacht-Master also elegantly adorns the wrists of navigators once back ...
Rolex Yacht-Master
The Rolex Yacht-Master collection is a flawless fusion of luxury and functionality, developed specifically for the professional yachtsman. With its timeless beauty and outstanding performance, the Yacht-Master is a staple for any boating enthusiast. Made from the highest quality materials, including 18K gold and 904L-grade stainless steel, each ...
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Rolex Yacht-Master 42. 42mm Yellow Gold - Ceramic Bezel - Black Dial - Rubber Strap 226658. $ 33,850. Free shipping. US. Rolex Yacht-Master 42. 2023 Rolex Yacht-Master 226658 42MM 18K Yg Black Dial Oysterflex Box Papers. $ 30,500. + $29 for shipping.
A Week On The Wrist: The Rolex Yachtmaster 40mm With Oysterflex
The Everose Rolex Yachtmaster, in Rolex Everose, with Everose Oysterclasp and Oysterflex bracelet, as shown, $22,000 in 37 mm, and $24,950 in 40 mm. For more info, check out Rolex.com. Rolex. A-week-on-the-wrist. For the first time, Rolex is delivering a watch on a rubber strap - except in classic Rolex fashion it's not a rubber strap at all.
Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Ultimate Buying Guide
Rolex Yacht-Master 40: An Ultra-Modern Design. A line up of the Oyster Perpetual family, Rolex Yacht master 40 collection is a series of watches with a unique design built to withstand the elements. It was originally designed for diving enthusiasts but is refined enough to fit the daily wearer. The Yacht-Master 40 was first introduced in the 90s.
Rolex Yachtmaster Vintage
You are likely to find exactly the rolex yachtmaster vintage you're looking for on 1stDibs, as there is a broad range for sale. Each design created in this style — which was crafted with great care and often made from Gold, Yellow Gold and 18k Gold — can elevate any look. If you're looking for a rolex yachtmaster vintage from a specific time period, our collection is diverse and broad ...
Pre Owned Rolex Yacht Master
Rolex Watch. Yacht-Master 35mm. $15,900. Rolex Watch. Yacht-Master 40mm. $30,900. Discover the elegance of a pre-owned Rolex Yacht Master. Sleek design and seamless operation define this style staple. Explore restored options.
Rolex Yacht-Master Ultimate Buying Guide
The Rolex Yacht-Master II features one of the brand's most complicated in-house movements to date — the self-winding mechanical chronograph, caliber 4160/4161. ... Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. ...
The Rolex Yachtmaster: history, models, price
Instead, the Yachtmaster's technical development began with the 2007 Rolex Yacht-Master 2 116680, whose sailing-professionals-oriented complication proves, alongside a Rolex Sky-Dweller, how much Rolex technicians are up to the task when asked to design a mechanically complicated watch.
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US. Rolex Yacht-Master II. NEW 2023 Yacht-Master II 44mm Steel Blue Ceramic Bezel White Dial Oyster 116680. $ 22,145. + $99 for shipping. US. Rolex Yacht-Master II. 44mm in Stainless Steel on Black Rubber Strap with White Dial and Mercedes Hands. $ 18,150.
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Retail prices for new Yacht-Master II models range from approximately $19,000 for steel to nearly $50,000 for the luxe white gold/platinum edition. Pre-owned Rolex Yacht-Master IIs in gold or platinum with original papers and boxes typically sell well below retail, though prices on used steel versions trend just slightly below new.
Pre-Owned Rolex Yacht-Master Watches
The Rolex Yachtmaster was introduced in 1992 as a luxury tool watch for sailing and yachting enthusiasts. With a 100m water resistance and plenty of style and flair, it was suited for wearing on the decks of boats and in yacht clubs. Today, it is available in a variety of sizes (37, 40, 42, and 44mm), a myriad of metal combinations, and dials ...
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Rolex Yacht-Master. 268621. 37MM Steel & 18k Everose Gold. Black Chromalight Dial, B&P (2021) $14,495 Buy. Get Quote Sell. Explore pre-owned & used Rolex Yacht-Master Mens watches at Bob's Watches. Discover our collection of certified and authentic luxury watches at the best prices.
Official Rolex Website
The Yacht-Master II is a unique chronograph with a regatta timer and a Oystersteel case. Learn more about this sailing-inspired watch on Rolex.com.
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Rolex Yacht-Master 40. 2006 Yacht-Master 16622 Platinum Dial SS Oyster With Papers 40mm. $ 8,950. + $50 for shipping. US. Rolex Yacht-Master 40. 2023 Rolex Yacht-Master 40MM Rhodium Dial Platinum/Steel Watch 126622 Box Papers. $ 15,500. Free shipping.
Future Classics: The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 ref. 116655
Like the Everose gold Yacht-Master 40, the new Rolex Yacht-Master 42 ref. 226659 is exclusively offered on a black Oysterflex bracelet, and fitted with a matching black dial and black Cerachrom ceramic bezel insert. ... Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the ...
ROLEX Stainless Steel Platinum 29mm Yacht-Master Watch ...
This is an authentic ROLEX Stainless Steel Platinum 29mm Yacht-Master Watch Silver 169622. The watch is crafted of stainless steel and platinum, and features a silver dial, luminous hands and hour markers, date display, platinum bi-rotational bezel, sapphire crystal, oyster bracelet, and an automatic movement. 1430431
A Brief History of Rolex, the World's Most Renowned Watchmaker
1992 - Rolex launches the Yacht-Master and begins sponsoring yacht races that draw worldwide audiences to this day. ... (with the exception of the vintage Ref. 6062 and 8171, both triple ...
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Vintage
Rolex Oyster Perpetual. 14K Yellow Gold 6084 with Red OCC Dial on Leather Strap. $ 6,000. Free shipping. US. Rolex Oyster Perpetual 26. Vintage Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ladies 26mm Steel Automatic Watch 6618 Circa 1957.
Rolex Yacht-Master Womens Watches
Rolex Yacht-Master. 268655. 37MM 18k Everose Gold, Black Dial. Oysterflex Rubber Strap, B&P (2017) $23,495 Buy. Get Quote Sell. Cash wire prices shown. Prices may be higher if other payment methods are selected.*. Explore pre-owned & used Rolex Yacht-Master Womens watches at Bob's Watches.