lightning sailboat centerboard

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Sail1Design

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November 30, 1999 by Sail1Design Editor Leave a Comment

Without Compromising Either One The Lightning, a 19 foot trailerable centerboard sloop, was originally designed by Sparkman & Stephens as an affordable family day-sailor and racing boat. She has evolved into one of the most popular and competitive one-design racing classes in the world. Awarded ISAF International Class status, the Lightning is sailed in more than 13 countries and in the Pan American Games, and the class provides a professionally-managed association that is among the largest in all of one-design sailing. The Lightning’s rig is simple, but offers sophisticated sail shape controls. The hull features a unique hard chine design that combines the stability that provides sail-carrying power, with flat bottom sections that promote planing. The International Lightning Class Association protects the boat’s design and licenses custom and private builders to build boats under its administration. A list of Lightning builders is available from the ILCA upon request.

Dinghy Responsiveness, Sportboat Performance

The Best Of Both Worlds Whether racing or daysailing, the Lightning offers a combination of performance and stability that eludes most one-designs. The Lightning’s hard chine and 130 lb centerboard give her the stability and power of a small keel boat going to weather in strong winds and allow her to carry a very large spinnaker for breathtaking offwind rides. There’s room in the cockpit for two couples or a family to daysail, but the Lightning is easy to ramp launch and light enough to trailer with ease. In the event of a capsize, she can be righted and sailed dry by her crew.

Refined Design, Toda

The Best Of Both Worlds Whether you’re more interested in how a boat looks or how it behaves, it’s hard to beat the Lightning. The Class maintains an attitude that promotes conservative innovation, making the boat faster, safer and more maintenance free, while keeping prices affordable. Most Lightnings built in the last 25 years can be made competitive and it’s not uncommon to see them winning races right along with new ones. In fact the 1995 World Champion sailed a boat built in 1969! Modern Lightnings are built in foam-cored fiberglass with stainless steel centerboards and black anodized aluminum spars. The world’s top sailmakers give the class their best efforts. In short, there are enough controls to keep the most technically inclined happy, but it’s good tactics, boat-handling and hiking that win races.

The Best Competition In The World Or A Way To Get Away From It

The Best Of Both Worlds

Ted Turner, Dennis Conner, Ken Read, Dave Dellenbaugh, Dave Curtis, Bruce Goldsmith, Tom Allen, Neal Fowler, Steve Benjamin, Ched Proctor, Bill Shore, Greg Fisher, Andy Horton are just a few of the rock stars who have competed in the Lightning. After more than 60 years and more than 15,000 boats it’s easy to find a regatta when you want to. But whether you’re interested in serious racing or you just want to go for a joyride with the family, you’ll find what you’re looking for in the Lightning. Club Racer Or International Icon

The Lightning truly excels as a racing boat. It requires a wide range of different skills, both tactical and technical. At 700 pounds all up, the boat is tough enough to avoid frequent breakdowns, but light enough to plane wildly on the reaches. A World Championship is held every two years. North American, South American and European Championships are held each year as are innumerable regional and District championships. Major regattas attract some of the finest sailors in the world, but you find class members friendly and the sailmakers’ complete tuning guides helpful at getting you up to speed in a hurry.

The International Lightning Class Association

Welcome To Our World

The ILCA is one of the oldest and best organized class associations in sailboat racing. Its primary purpose is to serve its membership, preserve the integrity of the Lightning and provide high-quality competitive events. In addition, the ILCA publishes a monthly newsletter Lightning Flashes with up-to-date regatta news, boat brokerage and ideas on how to get the most out of your Lightning. An annual Yearbook, containing many illustrated articles, reports on major championships, fleet reports and a complete association mailing list, is also published. The professional ILCA staff is always on hand to assist both current and potential members. If you’re looking for a boat you can be proud to sail, one that offers dinghy handling with the performance of a sportboat, a refined design that’s free of fads, complete with the technology of today for both racing and daysailing

Get The Best Of Both Worlds. Get into a Lightning. See you on the water. David Dellenbaugh, former Lightning World Champion and starting helmsman for 1992

America’s Cup defender America3

The Top 10 Things I Like About The Lightning: 1. There’s Lightning racing almost everywhere. 2. Some of the best sailors in the world sail the Lightning. 3. Lightnings are available from more than one high-quality builder. 4. Lightnings even 20 years old are still competitive. 5. The boat is one of the best crew trainers on the water today. 6. The class is not so strict as to discourage experimentation which makes the boat faster and easier to sail. 7. The Lightning has interested the finest sailmakers in the world so the sails and the tuning guides look great and are easy to use. 8. The Lightning is a very roomy boat for daysailing. 9. Lightning sailors sail hard, but they’re not too cutthroat – someone’s always ready to answer questions. 10. The class management is as good as you’ll find in one-design sailing. For more information about the International Lightning or to arrange a test sail in your area, call or write to the address listed below.

Design: Sparkman & Stephens, 1938 Over 15000 built More than 500 fleets worldwide Length: 19’0″ (5.8m) Beam: 6’6″ (2m) Displacement: 700 lb (318 kg) Draft (board down): 4’11” (151.3cm) (board up): 5″ (12.8cm) Mast height: 26’2″ (7.9m) Sail area (main & jib): 177 sq.ft. (spinnaker): 300 sq.ft. Crew (racing): 3

Class website: http://www.lightningclass.org/index.asp

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About the DN Iceboat

The Lightning offers a combination of performance and stability that eludes most one-designs. The Lightning’s hard chine and 130 lb centerboard give her the stability and power of a small keel boat going to weather in strong winds and allow her to carry a very large spinnaker for breathtaking off wind rides. The Lightning’s rig is simple, but offers sophisticated sail shape controls. 

Our 19-foot trailerable centerboard sloop has evolved into one of the most popular and competitive one-design racing classes in the world. Awarded ISAF International Class status, the Lightning is sailed in more than 13 countries and in the Pan American Games, and the class provides a professionally-managed association that is among the largest in all of one-design sailing. 

If you’re looking for a boat you can be proud to sail, one that offers dinghy handling with the performance of a sportboat, a refined design that’s free of fads, complete with the technology of today for both racing and daysailing – Get The Best Of Both Worlds. Get into a Lightning.

Class Information:

Class Contact:  Laura Jeffers, Executive Secretary

Class Contact Email:   [email protected]

Class Contact Phone:   727-942-7969

Class Website:   lightningclass.org

Social Media:   Facebook  |  Twitter  |  Instagram  |  Youtube  

Class Specs

LOA:  19 ft. 

Beam:  6 ft. 6 in. 

Draft:  4 ft. 11 in. 

Weight:  700 lbs. 

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On the morning of the final race, we sat down with a Lightning class legend and the fleet’s next generation to see what they could learn from each other.

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International Lightning Class Association

Class contact information.

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Class Email

Class Website

One-Design Class Type: Dinghy

Was this boat built to be sailed by youth or adults? Both

Approximately how many class members do you have? 1600

Photo Credit:Douglas Wake

Photo Credit: Art Petrosemolo

About International Lightning Class Association

The Lightning truly excels as an affordable racing boat. The rig is simple but offers sophisticated sail shape controls. The hull features a unique hard chine design that combines the stability that provides sail-carrying power, with flat bottom sections that promote planing. At 700 pounds all up, the trailerable centerboard sloop is tough enough to avoid frequent breakdowns, but light enough to plane wildly on the reaches. Membership is diverse with sailors aged 8 to 80+. Many families sail together at top events and it is common to see females make up at least 40% of competitors.

The Lightning is sailed in more than thirteen countries and in the Pan American Games. A World, Master World and Youth World Championships are held every two years. North American, South American and European Championships are held each year as are innumerable regional and District championships. Major regattas attract some of the finest sailors in the world, but you find Class members friendly and the sailmakers’ complete tuning guides helpful at getting you up to speed in a hurry.

The International Lightning Class Association is one of the oldest and best organized class associations in sailboat racing. Its primary purpose is to serve its membership, preserve the integrity of the Lightning and provide high-quality competitive events. In addition, the Lightning Class publishes monthly e-blasts and a quarterly newsletter Flashes with up-to-date regatta news, boat brokerage and ideas on how to get the most out of your Lightning. The professionally managed association and dedicated volunteers are always on hand to assist both current and potential members.

If you’re looking for a boat you can be proud to sail, one that offers dinghy handling with the performance of a sport boat, a refined design that’s free of fads, complete with the technology of today for both racing and day sailing – look at the Lightning.

Boats Produced: 15630+

Class boat builder(s):

Allen Boat Company, Buffalo, NY: https://www.allenboatco.com/

WindRider International: https://www.windrider.com/

Approximately how many boats are in the USA/North America? 11,000+

Where is your One-Design class typically sailed in the USA? List regions of the country:

East of the Mississippi, Mid-West, Texas, Denver, San Diego, Pacific Northwest Click Here for Fleet Finder Map: https://www.lightningclass.org/content.aspx?page_id=451&club_id=93488

Does this class have a spinnaker or gennaker? Yes

How many people sail as a crew including the helm?  3

Ideal combined weight of range of crew:  490

Boat Designed in  1938

Length (feet/inches): 19’0″

Beam: 6’6″

Weight of rigged boat without sails: 700 lbs

Draft: (board down): 4’11”, (board up): 5″

Mast Height: 26’2″

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Lightning Sailboat Parts & Equipment

Class Description

The Lightning, a 19-foot trailerable centerboard sloop, designed by Sparkman & Stephens as an affordable family day sailor and racing boat. She has evolved into one of the most popular and competitive one-design racing classes in the world. The Lightning's rig is simple, but offers sophisticated sail shape controls. The hull features a unique hard chine design that combines the stability that provides sail-carrying power, with flat bottom sections that promote planing. There's room in the cockpit for two couples or a family to daysail. The Lightning is easy to launch and light enough to trailer with ease. In the event of a capsize, she can be righted and sailed dry by her crew. Get "The Best of Both Worlds.

Class Specs

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Lightning Parts

West Coast Sailing is your source for Lightning sailboat parts and accessories. The Lightning has 60 years of tradition behind it. This competitive 19-foot trailerable centerboarder is one of the most competitive one-design classes today. But whether you're interested in serious racing or just want to go for a ride, the Lightning gives you what you're looking for. Some great sailors have been 'struck by Lightning': Ted Turner, Dennis Conner, Ken Read, Bill Shore, and Greg Fisher to name a few.

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Lightning Jib Sheet 2:1 Continuous

Lightning Jib Sheet 2:1

Lightning Jib Sheet 1:1

Lightning Mainsheet (Fusion)

Lightning Mainsheet (SSR)

Lightning Spin Halyard

Lightning Spinsheet (SSR)

Lightning Spinsheet Tapered

Lightning Spinsheet (Ultra-Lite)

Harken 13 mm Traveler Car w/ Shackle

Harken Cam Cleat Swivel Base w/ 150 Aluminum Cam

Harken 22 mm Double Upright Bullet Block

Harken 40 mm Carbo Block Traveler w/ 29 mm Block

Harken 29 mm Carbo Clew Blocks w/ Ring

Harken Thru-Deck 44 mm Dinghy Block

Ronstan Cam Cleat Fairlead Medium Grey

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Rigging - halyards, sheets, and wires.

West Coast Sailing has a full range of designs for all Lightning running and standing rigging which can be built to order in our rig shop. Email our team at [email protected] to learn more . Products coming to our online store Spring 2022.

Rigging Diagram

Use the diagram below to reference Harken part numbers to appropriate application on your Lightning sailboat. Parts recommendations are offered as a guide for common applications.

Adjustable Ball bearing Lead Car

Upgrading to an adjustable lead car system allows you to change your lead under sail without having to tack to unload the car. The Micro CB traveler cars are very small and lightweight, but strong—perfect for the Lightning.

Belowdeck Vang System

This split boom vang lets you easily adjust the vang from both sides while hiking. The 24:1 purchase uses lightweight Carbo blocks for the power needed to control sail shape without adding weight to the boat. The cascading system uses small high-tech line to help keep everything clean above deck.

Diagram provided by Harken. West Coast Sailing is an approved seller of Harken sailboat hardware.

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Lightning centerboard extraction

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Lightning centerboard extraction I have lightning and am wanting to extract the centerboard to remove the paint. Any suggestions on a one man extraction? Is it possible to extract with the boat on the trailer?  

I don't know about trailer extraction but with some inguinuity you can do it. You need some jacks to raise the keel a few inches above the width of the center board. I take mine out periodicaly and alway's tell the yard to leave me sitting high enough to wiggle the CB out. there is nothing one man can't do with come alongs, jacks, patients and fore thought.  

So the CB needs to come out from the bottom correct?  

Ya, there will be a bolt that it pivots on. They were installed with extraction in mind, very simple set up.  

Good deal, thanks!  

Any tips on getting the paint off the stainless steel CB?  

Wire brush on a drill.  

The CB on a Lightning is supposed to weigh <= 130 pounds. ILCA Lightning Plans and Specifications Probably be easier to extract the CB in shallow water on a calm day. You need to find and remove the pivot pin in the CB trunk. I'm not sure if this is feasible or not but you could remove the cap of the CB trunk in the cockpit. You might be able to jigger the CB out through the top. I doubt this would work with the boat lying flat in it's trailer though. You'd likely need some wiggle room. Another thought is to dump the Lightning onto the ground, prop up one side and dig a trench under the CB. Good luck.  

The board comes out of the the top of the trunk somewhat easily. Replace pannant with something easier to hold on to and fasten it somewhere so the top of the board doesn't go below the top of the trunk. Wedge something like a cuchion on the trailer brace to restrict the amount the board can be lowered. Lower board. Remove pivot pin and carefully wiggle it out. The standard steel (or ss steel) board is heavy, but one, reasonably strong person can manage this task. An extra person can make it a little safer.  

I have recently purchased a Lightning (1982 nicholes boatworks variety). I am new to this boat type so I am not quite getting in my mind the picture of the centerboard removal. Terms are important but is there a diagram anywhere or pictures on the internet for me to become enlightened? I have yet to take the boat out until all is clear in my mind. I've even thought about suspending the boat off the trailer to drop the board for examination and removal. I have an extremely sturdy garage frame that I can back the trailer under to do so and a 1 ton chain hoist begging for something to do.  

REad the message I left previously. It WILL work with this particular vintage Lightning. It's DESIGNED to allow the CB to be removed while resting on the trailer. Lifting the boat and trying to remove it through the bottom is much more difficult and potentially dangerous. Just be sure you put something underneath (between trailer and bottom of boat) in order to prevent the board from falling on to the trailer or on to the ground. The pin upon which the board pivots is removable from the inside. The board is heavy, and you want to fasten something easy to hold on to through hole in the top. I have done this at least 20 times by myself, and I'm no athlete. A helper might reduce anxiety  

As Sonosail posted in post #9 of this thread, the top of the centerboard trunk can be removed allowing you to extract the centerboard; all 130#'s of it. I checked with the International Lightnint Class.org website for the One design specs on this boat. On the Lightning I owned I remember a wood cap over the center board trunk probably made from Mahogany wood and bunged in. You would need to find and remove all the bungs, then the screws beneath them and remove the entire board to reveal the center board trunk. Extracting it is then just a matter of lifting. Sounds easy enough. Yeah right.  

I, for one, (and I know, others do too,) appreciate the helpful comments you regularly make on this forum. In this case, you must be thinking of boat other than a Lightning. (or possibly a really old wood one?) I've owned 3 different lightnings and sailed on at least 20 others. I also owned one from this same builder and vintage, and performed this same task at least 20 times. Not necessary to take anything apart. (only the pivot pin when when you ready to lift the board out.) Slot is open at the top. No cap. The board is somewhat heavy. But unlike many other boats, someone actually thought about how a single person would take the centerboard out without too much effort. I haven't owned a Lightning in years, and since I have this sailboatdata.com thing, I never get involved with recommending any kind of boat. I will say, however that the Lightning (designed in the 1930's) is the most well thought out boat I have ever owned. I just remember thinking after launching a Laser for the first time, how much easier everything was on the Lightning. (not a useful comparison for most, ..initial impression only.)  

sonosail said: I, for one, (and I know, others do too,) appreciate the helpful comments you regularly make on this forum. In this case, you must be thinking of boat other than a Lightning. (or possibly a really old wood one?) Click to expand...

The going price for a used, SS Lightning CB is about $1k. If it were mine, I wouldn't touch it with a wire brush. Strip it with methylene chloride paint stripper. maybe use a 3M pad with stripper to get off the last remnants. Not that I'm recommending it, the CB will fall out if you invert the boat; gravity is holding it in. The TCA Class rules require a restrainer to keep them from falling out f the boat turtles.  

I owned a Lightning for years and had the steel cb out a number of times. It is not at all difficult and can be lifted out by one person although two would be better. I would just scrape what I could with a regular sharp hand scraper and then get a belt sander on it with some 120 paper. It's not a polished surface and needs some grip surface anyway if you're painting it again. I've seen the cbs in steel and bronze. Never saw one made from stainless...nice. Why paint it at all if trailering? I painted my cb because she was moored and, being steel, was prone to rust. Forgot to say that I removed mine when the boat was upside down. This makes for fewer potential problems and less chance of messing up the trunk and brightwork. Remove the top stop and it will slide right out once the pivot bolt is taken out. They are fairly easy to flip over and block up inverted.  

The minimum weight of a lightning is 700lbs, and the centerboard accounts for a small but good percentage of that weight, so unless you need to remove the centerboard I would first launch the boat and see how it operates. If it drops down then you are all set and go sailing! At the forward end of the centerboard trunk you will see a pin which the centerboard pivots on. The distance from the pin to the aft end of the trunk is about how much the centerboard will stick down underwater. Our club used to race those boats and I don't recall a centerboard ever having a problem. What I would suggest checking is the state of the lifting cable, especially where it attaches to the centerboard. -jonathan  

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• Sailboat Guide

Lightning is a 18 ′ 11 ″ / 5.8 m monohull sailboat designed by Sparkman & Stephens and built by Nickels Boat Works, Inc., Skaneateles Boat & Canoe Co., Helms - Jack A. Helms Co., Siddons & Sindle, Lippincott Boat Works, J.J. Taylor and Sons Ltd., Lockley Newport Boats, Eichenlaub Boat Co., Mobjack Manufacturing Corp., Clark Boat Company, Allen Boat Co., and Loftland Sail-craft Inc. starting in 1938.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

One of the most popular one-design classes in the US since the 1940’s. But fleets also exist in other parts of the world. Although originally designed for wood planked construction, nearly all boats since the early 1960’s have been built of fiberglass. Ballast above is max weight of centerboard.

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The Lightning is a 19.0ft fractional sloop designed by Sparkman & Stephens and built in wood or fiberglass by Clark Boat Company since 1938.

15550 units have been built..

The Lightning is an ultralight sailboat which is a very high performer. It is reasonably stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a racing boat.

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Lightning by Andrew J. - Scale 1:12 - centerboard sloop from Sparkman & Stevens plans

By Andrew J. April 8, 2021 in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day

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Hello all, I think it's finally time to give this project its own build log in the proper section of this forum. For those who may be seeing this for the first time, here's a little info. The Lightning is a 19 foot centerboard sloop designed by Sparkman & Stevens, and first sailed from the Skaneateles Country Club in central New York in 1938. It quickly became an international racing class and there are now over 15,000 Lightnings sailing in hundreds of fleets all over the world. My initial interest came from working at the Skaneateles Country Club for a few years. Even though I have never actually sailed in one, or gone sailing at all, for the that matter, I found the Lightning to be such a beautiful boat, I wanted to build a model of it.

A little over 5 years ago, I started building a Dumas kit of the Lightning, which you can find the log for here:

 There's a lot of good information and reference material there, particularly many pictures of Lightning #1 that I took for reference. That project eventually fell by the wayside when I decided it wasn't accurate enough for my liking (and later realized I hadn't done nearly as good a job with the shaping and fairing as I originally thought). So I decided to buy the plans for the real boat from the ILCA (International Lightning Class Association), scale them down, and scratch build a Lightning in the same way the real thing would be done. Once I had just about finished the hull, I got hung up in overthinking how the next steps should be done and the project ending up sitting idle for about 4 years. Fast forward to a couple weeks ago, I caught a sudden burst of fresh inspiration when a good friend of mine asked me what ever happened to that boat that I was building and I told them I still had it sitting safe and sound up in my closet. So I got it out and showed it to them and realized (not to toot my own horn too much) what a good job I had done so far and that I owed it to myself to continue working on it and prove to myself that I could finish what I had started. So for the past couple of weeks I've been sharing my progress in the Dumas build log. But since I'm not actually working on the Dumas kit anymore, this project needs its own log in the proper area of the forum.

• FriedClams and catopower

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Using the original table of offsets, I scaled all the measurements down and lofted my plans. Then I made a building jig fairly similar to what would be used to build the full size boat.

• catopower , GrandpaPhil , FriedClams and 3 others

And then for the planking. The lines on this boat are so smooth and I think the hull has such a beautiful shape, it really made planking a breeze. Everything went together smoother than I could have expected.

• catopower , KeithAug , yvesvidal and 2 others

And then with some temporary deck beams in place, it was time to remove it from the building jig! And then just after that is where I got stuck. I didn't know what the best way to go about installing the deck and cockpit framing was, and got so hung up overthinking everything, I just stopped working on it. But fast forward 4 years, with my fresh inspiration and some more research and a little logical thinking, I came up with a plan of action. I decided the best course of action would be to install all of the deck beams at full width to give the form maximum strength and the most uniform shape for fairing. A brilliant design feature of this boat is that the deck is actually a straight line from the bow to the transom at the center line, and the sheer is determined by the intersection of the deck beams and side frames. The deck is a consistent arc, being that of a circle of a 20 foot radius, or in this case 20 inches. So when the time came to fair it, all I had to do was mount a sheet of sand paper to my work surface, flip the boat upside down, and just rock it back and forth across the sandpaper, constantly checking it with my deck arc template until everything was fair. My technique, as shown above with the bottom framing, was to lightly color all the frames with a blue Sharpie, so once all the blue was gone, I knew everything was fair! Then I proceeded to cut out the cockpit and install the stringers. The front stringers were two of the trickiest pieces I've ever made, being angled in both directions, but I got there eventually. I'd say they came out just about perfectly symmetrical. When it comes time to install the splash guard and cockpit coaming, it will be a similar process, but I suppose if I did it once, I can do it again! So that brings us up to now, as I finished the cockpit framing last night. I believe the next step is going to be painting the inside, which of course must be done before installing the deck, floor boards, and seats.

• grsjax , John Fox III , VTHokiEE and 5 others

Beautiful work! Love the 1:12 scale as you can build it like the real thing.  I can't tell from the photo, but is the inside painted yet or is it just the wood is very light?

42 minutes ago, Michael_A said: Beautiful work! Love the 1:12 scale as you can build it like the real thing.  I can't tell from the photo, but is the inside painted yet or is it just the wood is very light?  

Thank you! No, nothing is painted yet, the basswood is indeed very light. I’m going to paint the inside a very light grey.

So many questions; your build is really entrancing. Where did the "jig assembly and setup" booklet come from? It looks like a nice read. And how did you keep the frames from wobbling all over the place in your jig? Finally, it looks like you cut the notches for the chine stringer after all the frames were attached to the form, not before? That must have been tricky esp. if the frames were not braced to each other ...

Great build so far. I’m also curious about cutting the chine notches - how tricky was that? Doing a scratch build has been on my mind but I keep going back and forth about subjects. I think you’re starting to seal the subject for me. Is the booklet a good help? Or are the plans good enough? 

Current Build: HM Sloop Echo 1781 (First Scratch Build)

Previous Builds:  HM Cutter Alert ,  Sharpie Schooner ,  Chesapeake Bay Flattie ,  Half-Hull (NRG)

19 minutes ago, Michael_A said: Andrew,   So many questions; your build is really entrancing. Where did the "jig assembly and setup" booklet come from? It looks like a nice read. And how did you keep the frames from wobbling all over the place in your jig? Finally, it looks like you cut the notches for the chine stringer after all the frames were attached to the form, not before? That must have been tricky esp. if the frames were not braced to each other ...   Michael  

The ILCA has published a booklet, almost literally an instruction manual on how to build a wooden Lightning which is incredibly helpful! You can buy it here:  https://www.lightningclass.org/content.aspx?page_id=586&club_id=93488&item_id=5905

Before I installed the chine logs, I think I was just extremely careful sanding along the lengths of the frames and was just incredibly lucky that nothing broke loose or became misaligned. In retrospect, I definitely should have put in some temporary spacer blocks between the sides of each frame. I would definitely recommend doing so to anyone else. I was just dumb and should have known better but lucked out anyway. And yes, I did cut the notches after everything was set up, and as far as I can remember, it was extremely tedious and tricky. It was over 4 years ago, but as far as I remember, I was just extremely careful with my razor saw and everything just happened to come out ok. I would definitely recommend cutting the notches in each frame before attaching to the jig. I guess I just didn't think that far ahead at the time and again got lucky that it worked out the way it did. (I'm sensing a theme here...)

9 minutes ago, VTHokiEE said: Great build so far. I’m also curious about cutting the chine notches - how tricky was that? Doing a scratch build has been on my mind but I keep going back and forth about subjects. I think you’re starting to seal the subject for me. Is the booklet a good help? Or are the plans good enough? 

The book is absolutely incredibly helpful, I don't think I would have known where to begin without it! It outlines in detail the lofting technique to draw your full size lines to obtain your half station measurements and how to set up the building jig and all of that stuff. It's written specifically for amateur builders who are looking to build their own Lightning in their garage or backyard. (See above reply for the link). The specifications manual they provide free for download is also very helpful, as it's the only place I was able to find a specified measurement for the width the deck around the sides of the cockpit.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/ClubExpressClubFiles/93488/documents/Specifications_287597677.pdf?AWSAccessKeyId=AKIA6MYUE6DNNNCCDT4J&Expires=1617910107&response-content-disposition=inline%3B filename%3DSpecifications.pdf&Signature=ExOzPsedzB40nAT%2FgwcLEprtL6Y%3D

Initial trial of chainplate attachment successful! I went with the Micro-Mark 00-90x1/8 screws and nuts. The flat head screws countersink nicely into the 1/16” planking with just enough thread poking through to accept the brass strip and the nut! Let’s just hope the actual planking on the boat behaves itself as well as this test piece did! I won’t have to countersink the heads quite as far as this I don’t think. Just enough to be able to fill and fair. I’m thinking probably 4 screws per chainplate will be sufficient.

• KeithAug , GrandpaPhil , VTHokiEE and 1 other

Not my prettiest paint job ever, but a necessary step nonetheless. Unfortunately I couldn’t find a good way to clean up the excess glue from the planking and bottom frames, but most of it will be covered by the floorboards and seats anyway. I had expected it to be a lighter grey based on the color of the lid of the paint jar, but oh well.

• yvesvidal , KeithAug , catopower and 3 others

Roger Pellett

Nothing wrong with your paint job that I c not see.  Painting the inside of the hull with the frames and  all is not easy.

 Lightnings are nice boats,  I had occasion to sail one in my younger days.

Well I went through my paint stash and just happened to find a light grey that I didn't remember having that just happened to be the exact shade that I was expecting the first one to be! So I went ahead and repainted. I am very happy with how the inside looks now. I also got the deck fitting blocking and mast partner installed, as well as the skeg. Throw the centerboard in there for a quick mock-up and she's starting to look like a proper Lightning!

• KeithAug , yvesvidal , oneslim and 3 others

I can't wait to sail her.... 🙂

2 hours ago, yvesvidal said: I can't wait to sail her.... 🙂   Yves

That would be so cool if I could! I'm not sure it would be a good idea, though. I didn't think to varnish the inside faces of the centerboard trunk before assembling it, so I think the wood might get damaged if it got wet.

It’s been a while since I put pencil to paper to plan out parts but I had fun drafting the seats! Now I can trace templates from here to transfer to the mahogany. If you were following my old log, you might remember that I was originally planning on this being a replica of #1 as a gift to the Skaneateles Country Club. This is no longer the plan and I’m just building it for my own pleasure, so I’ve decided not to replicate the cobbled together seats and floor boards of the prototype.

• KeithAug and GrandpaPhil

Very Nice work !

If you want to have a model Lightning to sail, the WoodenBoat store used to offer a kit.  The kit featured a deep keel protruding from where the centerboard would be on the real thing.  There was a lead weight on the bottom of the keel.

A true to scale model of a Lightning would apparently lack both lateral resistance and transverse stability to sail well.

A sweet little boat and nicely made. I look forward to seeing how it develops.

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

Previous Builds:-

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

6 hours ago, Roger Pellett said: Very Nice work !   If you want to have a model Lightning to sail, the WoodenBoat store used to offer a kit.  The kit featured a deep keel protruding from where the centerboard would be on the real thing.  There was a lead weight on the bottom of the keel.   A true to scale model of a Lightning would apparently lack both lateral resistance and transverse stability to sail well.   Roger

Yes, that’s the Dumas kit, which I attempted first but didn’t finish because I didn’t think it was accurate enough. The link to that build log is in the first post of this log. I may yet finish that model some day to try sailing in the pool or something. 

• 2 weeks later...

Rudder and hardware dry fit successful! I’m so glad I’m still able to use the pintles and gudgeons I made for the first Lightning five years ago!

• VTHokiEE , GrandpaPhil , Roger Pellett and 3 others

I've somehow missed your thread, Andrew.  That's a beautiful model you're building there.

Great photos. The workmanship on the rudder looks really crisp and clean.

Just discovered your work on this great model you are building. Brings back memories of an earlier time when Lightnings and Comets raced on Irondequit Bay in upstate NY. Don't see too many these days. Wonder why. Always admired the lines.

• Andrew J. and Roger Pellett

And Thistles too?

Thistle  #1327

Thistles were a bit more pricey as I recall and I think that held them back here. I remember as at the time I could not afford one. i just looked up any clubs in the area and all I see is around Albany, Saratoga area.

I have a friend who owns and races an Ensign on Lake Saratoga.  He tells me that there is a small Thistle fleet there too.

My Thistle was a wooden one that my father and I built from a kit.  I owned it for 10 years.  I sold it in Washington DC in 1970.

A friend of mine owns a wooden Lightning and sails it in the Duluth Harbor.  A University of Michigan graduate he has given it a Maize and Blue paint job.

Thank you all so much for your continued interest and kind words! It's so cool to have real Lightning owners and sailors following along here, and to see that this build is bringing such nostalgia and wonderful memories to you guys. It really makes my heart happy to see that I'm doing things right.

Dome that too but not in a Lightning! Ok, ok i will throttle it back and let you get on with the model.

Before you throttle back could you tell us what’s going on here?   Is that a man overboard or is the swimmer in the water for some other reason, like trying to water ski?  Instead of fighting the weather helm why doesn’t the helmsman let the boat  head up until things get figured out?    

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• Safety & Seamanship

Making the Most of Centerboards

Understanding how centers of effort shift can help make you a better sailor and reduce loads..

A deep, ballasted keel does a lot of good things. It lowers the center of gravity, provides lift to windward, and stabilizes the boat. It can add great strength if integrated into the construction of the hull, allowing the boat to sniff soft bottoms without damage.

There are downsides. Trailering is impractical. Countless shallow creeks and snug harbors become inaccessible. Docking is more expensive.

A centerboard is one solution, but there are differences. You probably read something about raising and lowering the centerboard or daggerboard in a book on dinghy sailing years ago, and unless you’ve been racing centerboard boats all these years, you’ve probably forgotten the details. Here’s a little refresher.

Even for the cruising sailor, centerboard position is as vital an adjustment, as sail balance and trim.

Balance. On a poorly trimmed boat, one of the largest sources of drag is often excessive rudder angle. Assuming you have the typical rudder profile (NACA 0021), the optimal helm range is generally 2-4 degrees when close hauled. A few degrees helps it share the work of the keel, providing lift to windward. More rudder angle and you are increasing drag, and if the angle exceeds 6 degrees, you are courting a stall when a strong turn to leeward is needed.

What causes excessive load on the rudder?

• Too much sail area aft. Sailing with main-only or a partially rolled-up genoa can do this.
• Over-trimmed mainsail.
• Excessive mast rake. Check the manual. Beach cats and planing skiffs have very specific reasons for radical mast rake. It only translates into more speed or better handling if the boat was designed for it.
• Excessive heel or bow-down trim. The hull form itself can force a turn to windward. A deeply buried bow can act like a forward rudder.

Centerboard trim

There are ways to fix these tendencies. Ease the main or lower the traveler. Reef the main and the headsail in balance. When sailing off the wind, it is often better to reef the main before the jib, to help keep her head down. Rake the mast to spec. Sail the boat flat. Bear away in the puffs when sailing deep, before the boat begins to heel excessively. Always steer for balance.

However, a centerboard or daggerboard adds an additional trim tool that is often forgotten. When the centerboard first begins to swing up, it moves more aft than up. In fact, a centerboard that is half up has typically lost only 20 percent of its draft and 15 percent of its projected area. On the other hand, the center of lateral resistance (CLR) on a 4-foot centerboard has moved aft about 1½ feet.

What about the change in righting moment of a weighted board? You have lifted it no more than 15 percent of the distance to the waterline, and depending on the board’s maximum depth, you’ve probably lost no more than 10 percent of the board’s contribution to righting moment. Don’t lift a weighted board more than this under sail, but experiment with how a slight movement aft changes things. Always mark the pendant so you know how far you have lifted the board.

Rising windspeeds

Consider the case of our Corsair F-24 test boat. As the wind rises, we might furl the jib for easier sailing. Reefing the main gives better balance, but rolling up the jib is easy and eliminates handling a whole set of sheets. Unfortunately, the sail center of effort (COE) then moves aft three feet, badly overloading the rudder.

In this situation, sailing becomes sluggish and we get trapped in irons every single time we try to tack. And there is no escape from irons, because even when we back the boat out as far as possible by reversing the rudder and fully easing the main sail—as deep as a beam reach—the moment we attempt to sheet in to make way, the bow swings right back into the wind.

However, if we lift the centerboard halfway, the center of lateral resistance moves aft about 1½-feet with very little change in area. We have less sail up, so the loss in area does not significantly increase leeway. The rudder will still be slightly overloaded and successful tacking requires easing the mainsheet as the boat comes through the wind, but you won’t be trapped in irons and the boat  accelerates well as the main is slowly brought in. The rudder angle remains a little higher than normal, but it isn’t a brake.

Reaching in Strong winds

Strong reaching conditions are another time when centerboard adjustments help. When the wind gusts, the boat heels, and the resulting submerged hull form wants to turn to windward. In the case of a multihull, the lee bow digs in, acting as a forward rudder. The helmsman tries to bear off, but the rudder stalls and the boat swerves to windward anyway. Apparent wind accelerates, flow over the sails becomes better attached (reaching sails are often partially stalled, so rounding up attaches the flow), apparent wind increases, and power increases dramatically, just when you don’t want it. Centrifugal force from the rapid turn adds to the mess. A monohull will broach. A multihull can capsize.

The solution? First there are the standard solutions. Reef the mainsail early and fly more headsail; this will help keep her head down. Bear off early and smoothly before the boat heels excessively rather than waiting until the need is urgent. The earlier correction is actually faster, because the rudder angle relative to the water stays low, keeping drag low.

But also consider lifting the centerboard halfway or a bit more. Because there is little side force from the sails when reaching deep, you don’t need as much area. The boat will probably be moving faster through the water relative to the side force, generating more lift with less area. But don’t lift it all the way up unless the boat has a stub keel; you still want some board down as a leverage point for steering. The goal is to move the center of effort aft, so that the boat doesn’t want to round up.

You cannot adjust a board under load. If you apply enough force, you will only break something or hurt your back. Even if there are slides and a sturdy tackle, only adjust the board when traveling straight upwind or downwind, slowly if possible. This will reduce the load. Sometimes shooting straight into the wind for just a few moments is enough; quickly make the adjustment and then return to your original course.

Centerboard adjustments are not just for racers. It is a cruiser adjustment, just like reefing, for those who value good handling and safety. It’s all about balance, and by swinging the board aft just a little bit, you can cure certain handling problems.

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The Lightning sail boat , a 19 foot trailerable centerboard sloop, was originally designed by Sparkman & Stephens as an affordable family day-sailor and racing boat. She has evolved into one of the most popular and competitive one-design racing classes in the world. Awarded ISAF International Class status, the Lightning is sailed in more than 13 countries and in the Pan American Games, and the class provides a professionally-managed association that is among the largest in all of one-design sailing.

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