1978 hunter 25 sailboat

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Be sure to check out those boats built between 1978 and 1981—owners think they're the best.

By the mid ’80s, after only ten years in business, Hunter Marine had become one of the two leaders (with Catalina Yachts) in the volume of auxiliary-sized sailboats on the US market. And, like Catalina, the corporate philosophy at Hunter was to mass produce low priced boats with as few changes in tooling, hence design, as possible.

As a result, Hunter until 1978 had a line basically consisting of three boats: the Hunters 25, 27 and 30, added to thereafter by smaller (20′ and 22′) and larger ( 31, 34′, 36′, 37′ and 54′) while the original three remained in production. Only after nine years production was the 25 replaced in the line (with the 25.5) and, after 10 years, the 27 (by the 28.5).

The basic marketing program of Hunter has remained remarkably consistent since it produced its first boats in 1974. That policy has made price the single most important factor in selling its boats. With the cost savings from mass production and minimum changes in tooling, Hunter has sold by far the highest volume of the lowest priced boats of their size and type on the market for the last 10 years.

Hunter Yachts came into being amid the energy crunch in the early 1970s. Silverton, a large manufacturer of smaller powerboats, expanded to build “energy-conscious” sailboats. It started with three boats, two John Cherubini-designed performance cruisers, the Hunters 27 and 30, and a Robert Seidelmann/J. Cherubini-designed small (MORC) racer, the Hunter 25.

The original Hunter 25 was a racy boat with a wedge-shaped cabin trunk that limited interior space. That space was further restricted by a design parameter for trailering, an 8′ beam.

From the outset Hunter has maintained a policy of selling its boats “fully equipped” so the original boats came with sails, dock lines and fenders, required safety gear, etc. and no factory supplied options except a shoal draft keel (in the fall of 1978 this sales policy got a name, CruisePac). Price of the 25 in 1974 was quoted at less than $8,000 with the boats reportedly being offered to dealers at closer to $6,000 in order to encourage a high sales volume.

By 1975, the desired sales being apparently unattainable with a boat as performance-oriented as the 25, the boat was offered in a so-called “pop-top” version with a more box-like cabin trunk at a price just $150 above the $8,500 tag on the standard version. The hull, rig and interior layout remained essentially the same. The following year the original model was discontinued and a box cabin trunk model without a pop-top became the standard Hunter 25.

At the same time, in keeping with the cruising image and purpose, a Yanmar single-cylinder diesel engine became an option and much was made of the increased headroom (from 5′ 2″ to 5′ 8″). Later still the transom was made more vertical (cockpit space having been at a premium and helping to cure the problem of mounting a outboard motor) and the headroom further increased.

In all over 2,000 25s were built, the exact number an oddly unavailable figure from Hunter Marine. Today they are probably the most universally recognized boat of their size and one of the most ubiquitous both in anchorages and on the used boat market, in brokers’ listings and classified advertising.

A Look at the Boat

Looking critically at a boat with the sales success of the Hunter 25 invites contention, but it does have notable deficiencies as well as notable virtues. Its virtues start with price just as Hunter Marine intends they should. When low price is a chief priority, it buys a lot of boat in a Hunter 25. This axiom applies just as much to the used 25 as it did to the new. For the entry-level sailor or one moving up into a first boat suitable for cruising, the 25 offers good livability (space, berths, enclosed head, and cookable galley), at least average performance and stability, a functional decor and styling, easily maintained (or neglected) cosmetics, and adequate structural strength for semi-protected waters. And all of this is obtainable at a price that competes with typical prices for the smaller, more cramped 23 footers of similar vintage.

On a negative side, the 25 suffers from the original narrowish beam, an unfortunate parameter since the boat never proved practical for trailering. Worse still, the shoal draft version, otherwise a desirable feature in boats of this size and purpose, does not have top-notch performance or stability. The cockpit is short and cramped for daysailing with a crew of more than three or four, and the coaming is too low for back support.

In general the Hunter 25 performs adequately. Under PHRF a fin-keel 25 rates about 222 (shoal draft, 230 or so), letting it sail boat-for-boat with the Catalina 25 and the O’Day 25, two slightly higher priced but otherwise comparable boats in size and type. Windward performance is hurt by shrouds attached at the rail and by the heavy weather helm created as the 25 heels. The shoal version further suffers from excessive leeway.

Perhaps the most serious fault of the Hunter 25 (as well as a lot of other boats of her size) is the inadequacy of an outboard motor as auxiliary power. For a “transition cruiser” auxiliary power is a highly desirable feature. At 4500 pounds with considerable windage the 25 needs engine power unavailable with outboard motors of reasonable horsepower. Add to this problem the tendency of a transom-mounted engine to lift free of the water in pitching conditions as well as the awkwardness of operating engine controls from the end of a tiller in a tight cockpit and you have persuasive arguments in favor of inboard engines in boats of this size even at the considerable additional cost.

Since, with the exception of the short-lived Yanmar option and owner-retrofitted engines (usually Saildrives), Hunter 25s are not available with inboard power, they are probably not a good choice for a buyer wanting a small auxiliary cruising boat.

What To Look For

Anyone in the market for a lower priced boat has to be more aware of possible problems than those prepared to spend more. The reasons are two-fold. In the first place, quality in boats is to a large degree a function of price. Secondly, for the less expensive boat the cost of repairs or replacement becomes a greater proportion of the value of the boat. With this in mind, we suggest looking at the following:

• A number of owners report problems with gelcoat. Crazing, voids, and porosity (pinholes that trap dirt) are commonly cited faults, especially in the deck and cabinhouse. Also, Hunter used a stippled gelcoat non-skid deck surface that deteriorates over the years. This pattern can be restored but it is not an easy task for the average owner unfamiliar with working with gelcoat.

• About half of the Hunter owners (25s and 27s) whose PS Boat Owner’s Questionnaires are in our files report at least “some” bottom blistering. Even if owner-refinished, the cost of ridding the boat of the pox could amount to 10% or more of the resale value of the boat and is unlikely to be more than tokenly recoverable in the sale price.

• Another oft-cited problem with the 25 is deck and cockpit-sole flexing. This flexing, while not a severe structural problem unless delamination has occurred, is unnerving and offends our sense of what a boat should feel like underfoot. To check for delamination (separation of the outer fiberglass laminate from the core material) tap the whole deck lightly with a hard plastic object such as the handle of a screw driver. Voids produce a dull sound.

• Play in the rudder post seems common on the 25s. Of the three we specifically looked at, 1977-1980 vintage, all had a noticeable degree of “slop” between the rudder post and the rudder tube. There is no simple or easy way to cure the ill that is more annoying than dangerous.

• Several readers report—and our findings support-the impression that 25 built between 1978 and 1981 are generally of at least a bit better quality than those built before or since. Note, however, there there can be no similar assurance that boats of that era were better maintained.

In our opinion the Hunter 25 does not recommend itself for any substantive restoration project except as it may help make the boat more enjoyable to own. With the number on the market, the basic functionality of the boat inside and out, and the low cost versus quality, expensive improvements do not produce commensurately higher value for the boat. At the same time, a polyurethane refinishing, bottom fairing (especially the iron keel), some dressing up of the decor (e.g., new berth upholstery), and a good choice of sails can do much to both the appearance and the pleasure of owning a 25.

One owner questionnaire voices the wonder of why Hunter-built boats tend to depreciate in contrast to other less popular boats. The reason is simple: the supply exceeds the demand. With the numbers built there are a lot on the used boat market. Many are also available because they were traded in on new boats, a source on the used boat market that tends to further depress selling price.

Conclusions

Frankly the Hunter 25 is best as a used boat when the most boat for the dollars is the overriding concern and, on a buyer’s market, when a good deal presents itself. Yet even then there are roomier, faster, better finished, and more distinctive boats readily available at comparable prices. One example is the Catalina 25. More importantly we think buyers should think smaller if budget constraints are crucial because they will want better performance with outboard power or they should think inboard at 10-15% higher price if needing 25′ and/or 4000+ pounds of boat.

If still otherwise sold on a Hunter 25, we would opt for a deep draft 25 for her performance and greater stability, and look for one that has had better-than-average maintenance to reduce the chances of serious problems. Whether valid or not, we’d also look for one built between 1978 and 1981—they have impressed owners as better boats.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Looking at trailerable 25’s and read your articles on the Hunter 25 and Catalina 25. Your research and writing style are excellent, and insights greatly appreciated. Planning to buy a basic and clean “grandaddy’s baby” of a ready-to-sail 1982 Hunter 25 deep draft at $2,500 over a nicely outfitted yet 2-year out of water ’87 Catalina 25 pop-top swing-keel with trailer and lots of extras for $10,000 (plus new rudder and 4 new tires plus…?). Two 50-sumthin’ high school sailers looking to get back into sailing and test part-time live-aboard to complement our full-time tiny home lifestyle. Thanks for sharing your perspective. 🙂

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• Boat Type : Monohull Sailboats
• Hull Material : Fiberglass
• Beam : 8'0"
• Length : 25'
• Net Weight : 4400 lbs
• Looking for the Boat Manual? 1978 Hunter Boats 25 Request Boat Manual Now

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The Hunter 25 is an American trailerable sailboat, designed by John Cherubini and Bob Seidelmann and first built in 1972. The original Hunter 25, sometimes called the Mark I , had a wedge-shaped cabin trunk,

The Hunter 25 is a small recreational keelboat, built predominantly of fiberglass. It has a masthead sloop rig, an internally-mounted spade-type rudder and a fixed fin keel. It displaces 4,400 lb (1,996 kg) in the Mark I version and 3,850 lb (1,746 kg) as the Mark II. Both carry 1,800 lb (816 kg) of ballast. The boat has a draft of 3.92 ft (1.19 m) with the standard keel and 2.92 ft (0.89 m) with the optional shoal draft keel.

The boat is normally fitted with a small 4 to 8 hp (3 to 6 kW) outboard motor for docking and maneuvering.

The design has sleeping accommodation for five people, with a double "V"-berth in the bow cabin, two straight settee berths in the main cabin and an aft single berth on the port side. The galley is located on the starboard side just forward of the companionway ladder. The galley is "L"-shaped and is equipped with a two-burner stove and a sink. The head is located just aft of the bow cabin on the starboard side. Cabin headroom is 62 in (157 cm) on the Mark I and 68 in (173 cm) on the Mark II.

The boat has a PHRF racing average handicap of 240. It has a hull speed of 6.02 kn (11.15 km/h).

Source: Wikipedia .

LOA: 25.00 ft LWL: 20.17 ft Beam: 8.00 ft Draft: 3.92 ft Displacement: 4400.00 lbs Ballast: 1800.00 lbs Hull type: Fin with rudder on skeg Hull construction: FG Rigging type: Masthead Sloop

Hunter 25 for sale in the last 12 months

Below you'll find the latest Hunter 25 listings for the last 12 months. We compare the listing price with boats listed in the past and the color coding indicates if the price is good (green = below the average listing price) or more on the expensive side (red = seller is asking more than the average listing price).

Hunter 25 listing prices over time

Listing details.

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1978 Hunter 25 Cherubini

• Thread starter HurricaneJHaines
• Start date Mar 25, 2015
• Hunter Owner Forums
• The Cherubini Hunters

HurricaneJHaines

Hello, I am the proud owner of a 1978 Hunter 25 Cherubini. I bought it last May and was pretty hard on the poor old thing sailing from Delaware City, DE to Pocomoke City, MD and back north again to Taylor Island, MD. I now need to replace ALL of the cabin cushions, V-berth cushions, as well as find a mainsail for it. Can anyone tell me where or who may be able to help in these areas? Thanks!  

HurricaneJHaines said: Hello, I am the proud owner of a 1978 Hunter 25 Cherubini. I bought it last May and was pretty hard on the poor old thing sailing from Delaware City, DE to Pocomoke City, MD and back north again to Taylor Island, MD. I now need to replace ALL of the cabin cushions, V-berth cushions, as well as find a mainsail for it. Can anyone tell me where or who may be able to help in these areas? Thanks! Click to expand

Haha!!!! For what I know and what I did... I NEED all of the advice I can possibly get! Lol! She's 4 years older than I am and so is the 9.9hp Evinrude. Long story, short version: In losing patience after 4 months of waiting to get anyone to teach me how to sail and what it entailed, I decided to take it south to show my grandfather as a surprise. It took me 9 days to sail there and I did it without a depth finder, no charts, no compass, still do not know how to navigate using coordinates, and never figured out how to use the talk radio a friend had lent me to use. The only thing I used was my cell phone. Even right down to believing I was sinking when I saw I was taking on water, my mainsail ripped in pieces, with 5ft waves in Hooper Straights just south of Hoopers Island - still didn't know to call the coast guard and had called a much more knowledgable person that told me to contact them if I got into trouble, lol! Looking back now, I fully understand the meaning of ignorance being bliss, hahaha! That was my maiden voyage and I learned how to actually get it sailing about lunch time of the third day.  

Welcome to the site. I can't help you with your questions in your original post but as a retired member of the US Coast Guard I strongly urge you to take a few boating safety courses. You can find basic boating safety courses and even advanced courses such as navigations at www.cgaux.org . I also suggest that you load the phone numbers for the Coast Guard stations in the areas you plan on sailing in. Lastly, leave a float plan with someone responsible. It can be as simple as where you plan on sailing, the length and color of you vessel, it's name and home port, when you expect to return, any medical issues you may have and who to contact if you are late. I have over 32 years of boat experience and I leave a float plan each time I'm on the water. Enjoy your boat/sailing. John  

Thank you, John! That is exactly what I will do in the trip back.  

Congrats on the boat. I'm actually jealous, I learned to sail on a Sunfish and kept capsizing the boat until I figured it out...at least you stayed dry! I now have a Hunter 27; just like your boat...but slower and heavier! Do please at LEAST get a chart of your sailing area so that you don't run-aground...or worse. I'd probably get a hand-held VHF radio as cell coverage is not always ideal offshore. I'd also reccommend Don Casey's "Sailboat Maintenance Handbook."  

Canyonkeeper

Welcome. I am redoing my 27 right now. For the cushions we cheated. We got the foam from a futon dealer. Then picked fabric from Joanne fabrics (they have sunbrella). From there we cut luan plywood to the shape of the v berth and settees. From there we wrapped the fabric and stapled to the board. Easy fix and cheap. This year though we are getting mesh and zippers sewed in.  

Welcome. You are one lucky person. The fact that you didn't run aground at all while sailing inland is nothing short of phenomenal. I have charts/gps/abundant channel markers up here in Barnegat Bay NJ and I still scrape the keel every now and then. I'm also shocked you were brave enough to open your sails without knowing how to use them and by yourself no less. First time you heeled must have scared the sh*t out of you. Kudos though for gritting your teeth and riding it out. Definitely one of the more daring stories I have heard. Must be hard to sail and keep the boat balanced with those balls of steel weighing you down. Haha. The coast guard is on Channel 16 by the way, they always listen on the frequency so if your in need of help, send out a distress call there.  

Stu Jackson

Buy and read Sailing for Dummies. You can probably find a used copy for next to nothing. It's a very good book. Why people go out and unnecessarily do stupid life-threatening things when the information is so readily available to them remains beyond me. Yes, we've all done stupid things with our boats, but most of us have done some studying or taken lessons before setting out. What's your life worth to you? Or your family. Stay safe, enjoy your boat. Do some homework and research. We can't do that for you.  

I used 3 apps I had downloaded to my phone to help me along my way. I wasn't totally sailing it blindly. I spoke with many people in the marinas I would stop in and received tons of info about the waters in the area. (Except for Hoopers straights... Lol! Nobody told me about Hoopers straights.) Stollo, as far as the balls of steel making it difficult, I wouldn't know. My ovaries are pretty sturdy though and only made me leery for one uncomfortable adventure riding my bike to the grocery store through a not nice part of town, lol! In regards to doing stupid things with my life, as I said before, ignorance is bliss. A person only knows they are doing something stupid when they have been around or involved in such things to obtain a bit of knowledge regarding it; stories, experiences, heard things others have gone through, witnessed other's experiences, etc. I grew up on an egg farm and was never around boats at all in my life until I bought mine last May. As far as my family, as I said, I was trying to surprise them by taking it to them. I do not claim to be a smart person by any stretch of the word, however, I am highly intelligent and learn acutely well from my mistakes very rapidly. Currently, I need to replace my mainsail and cabin cushions in order to continue my adventure to bring my boat back home. At the moment, it is a 2 hour drive away from me. Canyonkeeper, thank you very much!!! I will try to see about making the cushions like you had done using the board as backing. So far, with what tools I have available to work with at my house, that is the most doable way I have come acrossed for making my own. I will let you know how they turn out!  

HurricaneJHaines said: 1 .......ignorance is bliss. 2 A person only knows they are doing something stupid when they have been around or involved in such things to obtain a bit of knowledge regarding it; Click to expand

Stu Jackson said: Buy and read Sailing for Dummies. You can probably find a used copy for next to nothing. It's a very good book. Why people go out and unnecessarily do stupid life-threatening things when the information is so readily available to them remains beyond me. Yes, we've all done stupid things with our boats, but most of us have done some studying or taken lessons before setting out. What's your life worth to you? Or your family. Stay safe, enjoy your boat. Do some homework and research. We can't do that for you. Click to expand

Google "Used Sails" for replacement main sail. Google "Used marine electronics" for VHF. Cheap alternative to new.  

I guess what I am trying to ask, what key points should I be looking for in a used sail? The quote I received on a new one from north sails was $996.00. The one that came with mine didn't even last me 6 months and was told that I should have gotten 2-3 years out of it. I am fairly sure I have a wedge top and don't know if steel or aluminum would be best for example. I've read about 2-ply vs 3-ply, etc. I don't want to put out money on something that ends up being a waste of money.  

ggrizzard said: Google "Used Sails" for replacement main sail./quote] The nice thing about a used sail for a cruiser is that it doesn't have to be a boat-specific design. All that's really important is that the sail does not exceed the dimensions of your rig, i.e. foot not longer than boom length, luff not taller than boom-to-halyard sheave distance, etc... Other than that, it's all about condition. Click to expand

Can anyone give me the dimensions for the cabin cushions and v-berth? Trying to get marina board today to start working on making the cushions.  

HurricaneJHaines said: Can anyone give me the dimensions for the cabin cushions and v-berth? Trying to get marina board today to start working on making the cushions. Click to expand

DianaOfBurlington

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Looking at a Hunter 25, need advice.

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I went out to a marina to look at a 1978 Hunter 25 and absolutely loved it. The boat seems to be in amazing condition but has two things I am not sure how to handle: There is no engine - Can anyone provide any links or advice about what horsepower outboard would be the minimum on a boat like this? There is a crack in the paint all the way around the top of the keel where the metal and fiberglass meet. It seems like this would be normal - but I would feel alot more at ease to have some way to back up that assumption. Any advice on these issues or Hunter 25s in general would be very much appreciated. Thanks!  

Up to 10 HP New Hunter 25s take an outboard up to 10 HP.  

From another angle, consider that my boat (32ft) weighs a little over 11,000lbs and came with a 20hp inboard diesel, so 10hp is good on that Hunter. As for the crack, I suppose 28 years of water stress would cause it, or perhaps some time on the keel if grounded. Either way, I'd be looking for any seepage in the bilge, and would plan on stripping along the crack and re-sealing for preventive maintenance.  

As important as horsepower is the design of the lower unit and the prop. A good 4 stroke 8 hp with the right prop for the boat will likely do the job for a boat of that size, though the 4 strokes are somewhat heavier. The 6 hp would probably do until you were forced to motor into a heavy headwind or large seas. As for the "crack" in the paint at the hull/keel joint, this is not uncommon on boat of this vintage and simply requires careful inspection and/or as Seabreeze suggests resealing if there are any leaks or seepage.  

My J/24 uses from a 4 to 6hp outboard, but it weighs around 3000lbs. You might check the weight on the hunter to make a comparison. A crack around the keel on a j/24 is a big deal - in some cases the keels can waggle - which is bad. I was able to tighten mine up with the big bolts in the floor, then apply epoxy sealant to the crack and I now have no seepage. You're probably going to want to learn what all those "ropes" do... but you might start by referring to them as lines. I'm a newbie myself, but the ones that raise the sails are halyards, and the ones for trimming are sheets. I spent my first summer learning how to rig and launch my boat leaving little time for sailing. This season I'm getting more time on the water, and learning how to shape the sail for various conditions. Tip: if you're able to keep your boat in the water - you're more likely to spend time sailing it.  

Six horsepower would be plenty on an inland lake, but if you're going to sail Lake Michigan, I'd suggest an 8-10 horsepower with a shaft that is as long as you can find. The 8 should push the boat to hull speed (with power to spare) even against strong chop. When the conditions are such that 8-10 horsepower isn't enough (somewhere around 30 mph winds), the Hunter should probably be in it's slip. In those conditions, fifteen horsepower won't help.  

I'd be more concerned about the crack "in the paint" where the keel meets the hull. I'd get out there with some sandpaper and make sure the keel/hull joint isn't compromised or you may buy a problem that costs a lot more than an engine to fix. Better yet, have a survey done.  

Because of tariffs, you'll often find a 9.9hp motor rather than a 10hp motor. And that's plenty of motor for your boat--but you want a LONG SHAFT engine so the prop stays below the waterline as your boat hobbyhorses in rough water. Long shaft engines are less common. The prop should also be matched for a sailboat (slow than powerboats) so do a little asking when you shop, don't assume they are all the same. Because the weight of the engine will be all the way at the end of the lever arm, you also will be better off with the lightest engine you can find. Don't fret over five pounds, but if there is a 20-40 pound difference, invest in the lighter engine if everything else (except the price<G>) is the same. Many boats have a slight crack between the hull and keel, just from production not being perfect and fairing not being perfect. If the keel bolts are solid, and there is no sign of damage, it probably is normal. Some brands like C&C are known the "the C&C smile" a perpetual crack at that point because they are built light for racing and the keels often wiggle just enough to keep that crack in the paint. When in doubt...as others have said, get a survey. And consider asking the past owner to write on the bill of sale "no known groundings or known keel damage", or similar words. If he gets antsy about that...odds are he knows there was a problem.  

Also, might want to have the surveyor double check the keel bolts, and the hull-keel join.  

I have a 1982 Hunter 25' which I race/cruise and love. Fast, solid boat! However, nobody could pay me to own a new Hunter 25'. Poor construction and more for a housewife to putter around in. Two great questions! I myself just bought a Mercury 9.9. This is PLENTY of engine. I almost went 6hp, but if you are caught in a storm you will want that little extra. Do not go any higher! The dry weight is 93lbs. My old 9.9 was 78...I believe. I was a little concerned to I put new bolts/lock nuts along with very large washers, along with another set of washers to offset the weight (Hunter only puts 4 bolts with 4 little washers. I was totally not comfortable with this.) The only problem is there is a gas tank shelf and you have squeeze between into the bilge to get to the lower two bolts. It was very uncomfortable to do, but my mind is totally at ease now. I also made a new engine mount out of 3 pieces of 3/4" oak ply (gorilla glued it, sanded and varnished it with 3 coats of man-o-war high gloss. Looks great! Now...more important, the crack in the keel. It is normal to have what may look like a seperation. The question is, are there water stains that look like leaks? If not you might be halfway home. Second, go onboard and lift up the bilge board in the main salon. You will see, I believe 4 keel bolts. If they are rusted to hell then move on to your next possible purchase. Otherwise, throw a coat of ablative paint and set sail. You might notice that water will fill that bilge where the keel bolts are. Don't worry, that is normal. That is coming from the percperation or other areas of the boat, but settles there because it is the lowest point of the hull.  

Perhaps the OP has resolved his issues, one way or another, given that his post was nearly 10 months ago, and there was no further discussion.  

bdevries said: I went out to a marina to look at a 1978 Hunter 25 and absolutely loved it. The boat seems to be in amazing condition but has two things I am not sure how to handle: There is no engine - Can anyone provide any links or advice about what horsepower outboard would be the minimum on a boat like this? There is a crack in the paint all the way around the top of the keel where the metal and fiberglass meet. It seems like this would be normal - but I would feel alot more at ease to have some way to back up that assumption. Any advice on these issues or Hunter 25s in general would be very much appreciated. Thanks! cdwig40 I owned a 78 Hunter 25 and loved it. The engine that came with it was a 6 hp Evenrude long shaft. Plenty of power and easy on fuel. I think you will be happy with it. Click to expand...

We pushed a 25ft Coronado around all last summer with a new merc 9.9 4 stroke. Didn't have any problems, and that was with the stock prop, I did however purchase a new prop that had less pitch but never put it on. Since a Hunter 320 was purchased this spring, I now have a new merc. prop for cheap.  

also just to let you know watch the post date in the upper left side of the post, most of this discussion happened two years ago. Good luck with your motor search  

Once again, forum posts are not only alive immediately after the OP asked the question.. MANY people search the same question over time and find the answers on older threads but do not respond. Adding information to the internet is a good thing, even if the OP has moved on.  

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• Sailboat Guide

1978 Hunter 25

• Description

Seller's Description

Boat is located in: Bokeelia, Florida

LOA 25’ 0”, LWL 20’ 2”, Beam 8’ 0”, Draft 2’ 11” (fixed keel), Mast height 34’ 1” from WL.

Masthead sloop rig with full-batten main w/ 2 reefs, 150% roller-furled bi-radial genoa, spinnaker, telescoping whisker pole.

Winches for each genoa sheet and 1 for halyards.

Three-position motor mount. 5 berths, enclosed portable head, ice chest, 2-burner Origo alcohol stove.

Good cabin headroom for a boat of this size.

Bimini & mainsail cover.

Walker Bay dinghy with oars & sailing rig included.

Honda 9.9 HP extra-long shaft outboard with 6 amp alternator & electric starter.

Needs overhaul or replacement (recommend Tohatsu 6 HP “SailPro” w/25” shaft).

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

This is said to be the first sailboat built by Hunter Marine (USA). Shoal draft version: 2.92’/0.89m

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