catamaran in a storm

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Storm Tactics for Heavy Weather Sailing

• By Bill Gladstone
• Updated: November 15, 2021

Storm tactics can be roughly defined as the ways to handle a storm once you’re in it. There are several proven choices, all of which intend to keep either the bow or stern pointing toward the waves. No one tactic will work best for all sailboats in all conditions. As skipper, it will be up to you to consider the best approach for your vessel, procure the right equipment, and practice with it before it’s needed.

Here we look at some active storm options that might work when conditions are still manageable and you want to actively control and steer the boat. Crew fatigue is a serious consideration when using active tactics.

Forereaching

Although not often mentioned as a tactic, it can be highly effective for combating brief squalls or moderate-duration storms. Here’s how to set up your boat for forereaching: Roll the jib away (especially if you have a large roller-furler genoa set); reef the main down to the second or third reef position; and sail on a closehauled course, concentrating on keeping the boat flat. It will be a comfortable ride, everyone will be relatively happy, and you will be making 2 to 3 knots on a close reach. Check your course over ground because increased leeway will cause your track to be much lower. This is a possibly useful tactic to claw off a lee shore. Note that not all boats will be at ease forereaching, so you’d better experiment with it ahead of time. Catamarans in particular will lurch and demonstrate much-increased leeway.

Motorsailing

Sometimes it’s necessary from a time or safety perspective to stow the jib and fire up the iron genny instead. Motorsailing lets you point high and make progress to windward. Motoring with no sails will not work well (or at all, in some cases), particularly in big seas, but a reefed mainsail will provide lateral stability and extra power. Trim the main, head up high enough to control your angle of heel, set the autopilot, and keep a lookout. Fuel consumption makes this a short-term option.

Here’s a tip: Make sure cooling water is pumping through the engine. On some sailboats, the water intake lifts out of the water when heeled. A further difficulty is that the pitching boat might stir sediment off the bottom of the fuel tank, which can, in turn, clog the fuel filter.

Running off and drogues

Sailing under storm jib and a deeply reefed mainsail or storm trysail provides the most control. If you don’t have storm sails, a reefed jib will give you the power to steer and control your boat in the waves. The boat must be steered actively to maintain control because no autopilot will be able to do this.

If excessive speed is a problem and steering becomes difficult, towing a drogue will slow the boat. A retrieval line should be set from the head of the drogue for when it is time to bring it back on board. If you don’t have a drogue, trailing warps might help slow the boat.

In a storm of longer duration, or when conditions become otherwise unmanageable, the situation might call for a skipper to consider passive storm tactics. When you are exhausted and you just want to quiet down the boat and maybe get some rest, there are other boathandling options available, depending on the sea state and the ­equipment you have onboard.

Heaving to can be an excellent heavy-weather tactic, though some boats fare better than others. Wouldn’t it be great if during a heavy-weather episode you could just slow everything way down? Imagine a short respite with a reduced amount of motion from the relentless pitching and pounding. A chance to regroup, make a meal, or check over the boat. Well, you can.

Heaving to allows you to “park” in open water. Hove-to trim has the jib trimmed aback (that is, to the wrong side), the reefed main eased, and the helm lashed down to leeward. The easiest way to do this is to trim the jib sheet hard and then tack the boat, leaving the sheet in place. Trimmed this way, the jib pushes the bow down. As the bow turns off the wind, the main fills and the boat moves forward. With the helm lashed down, the rudder turns the boat toward the wind. As the main goes soft, the jib once again takes over, pushing the bow down. The main refills, and the rudder pushes the bow into the wind again.

RELATED: Safety at Sea: Mental Preparations Contribute to Positive Outcomes

Achieving this balance will require some fine-­tuning, depending on the wind strength, your boat design and the sails you have. You might, for example, need to furl the jib most of the way in to match the wind strength. Trimming the main will ensure that the bow is at an angle to the waves, ideally pointing 40 to 60 degrees off. Modern fin-keeled boats do not heave to as well as more-traditional full-keel designs.

When hove to, the boat won’t actually stop. It will lie, as noted, about 40 to 60 degrees off the wind, sailing at 1 or 2 knots, and making leeway (sliding to leeward). Beware of chafe. When hove to, the jib’s clew or sheet will be up against the shroud and might experience wear damage. Monitor this regularly, and change the position of the sheet occasionally. You might not want to heave to for an extended time.

Deploying a sea anchor

A sea anchor is a small parachute deployed on a line off the bow. A sea anchor helps keep the bow pointed up into the waves so the boat won’t end up beam to the seas. Light displacement boats will pitch violently in high seas, and chafe and damage might occur to the bow, so setting up a bridle and leading it aft through a snatch block will allow the boat to lie at an angle to the waves, providing a more comfortable ride. A big concern when using a sea anchor is the load on the rudder as the waves slam the boat backward. Chafe on the sea-anchor bridle is another big factor, so the bridle must be tended regularly.

Remember, if you and your vessel are caught out in heavy-weather conditions, as a skipper, you must show leadership by setting an example, watching over your crew, offering relief and help to those who need it, and giving encouragement. Remember too, discomfort and fear can lead to fatigue, diminished performance, and poor decision-making. Don’t compromise the safety of the boat and crew to escape discomfort.

Few people get to ­experience the full fury of a storm. Advances in weather forecasting, routing and communications greatly improve your odds of avoiding heavy weather at sea, but you’re likely to experience it at some point, so think ahead of time about the tactics and tools available to keep your crew and vessel safe.

Heavy weather might not be pleasant, but it is certainly memorable, and it will make you a better sailor. Take the time to marvel at the forces of nature; realize that the boat is stronger than you think.

Happy sailing, and may all your storms be little ones!

This story is an edited excerpt from the American Sailing Association’s recently released manual, Advanced Cruising & Seamanship , by Bill Gladstone, produced in collaboration with North U. It has been edited for design purposes and style. You can find out more at asa.com.

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HOW TO SAIL SAFELY THROUGH A STORM

Tips and tricks to help you get home safe.

Compared to the quick response and sudden nature of a squall , sailing through a storm in open water is an endurance contest. In addition to big wind, you’ll have to deal with big waves and crew fatigue.

Sailing in Waves

Sailing in big waves is a test of seamanship and steering, which is why you should put your best driver on the helm. Experienced dinghy sailors often are very good at heavy air steering, because they see “survival” weather more often than most cruisers.

Avoid sailing on a reach across tall breaking waves; they can roll a boat over. When sailing close-hauled in waves, aim toward flat spots while keeping speed up so you can steer. To reduce the chance of a wave washing across the deck, tack in relatively smooth water. A cubic foot of water weighs 64 pounds, so a wave can bring many hundreds of pounds of water across the deck.

Sailing on a run or broad reach in big waves is exhilarating, but be careful not to broach and bring the boat beam-to a breaker. Rig a preventer to hold the boom out.

Storm Sails

If reefing isn’t enough to reduce power, it’s time to dig out your storm sails — the storm trysail and storm jib. They may seem tiny, but since wind force rises exponentially, they’re the right size for a really big blow. Storm trysails are usually trimmed to the rail, but some modern ones are set on the boom. The storm jib should be set just forward of the mast to keep the sail plan’s center of effort near the boat’s center of lateral resistance. This helps keep the boat in balance.

Storm Strategy

The first decision before an approaching storm is the toughest: Run for cover, or head out to open water for sea room? With modern forecasting, a true storm will rarely arrive unannounced, but as you venture further offshore the chances of being caught out increase. While running for cover would seem the preferred choice, the danger lies in being caught in the storm, close to shore, with no room to maneuver or run off.

Two classic storm strategies are to try to keep away from land so you’re not blown up on shore, and to sail away from the storm’s path — especially its “dangerous semicircle,” which is its right side as it advances.

Storm Tactics

Storm tactics help you handle a storm once you’re in it. There are several proven choices, all of which aim to reduce the strain and motion by pointing one of the boat’s ends (either bow or stern) toward the waves. No one tactic will work best for all boats in all conditions.

Sail under storm jib and deeply reefed mainsail or storm trysail. This approach provides the most control. Sails give you the power to steer and control your boat in the waves.

Run before the storm with the stern toward the waves, perhaps towing a drogue to slow the boat. This tactic requires a lot of sea room, and the boat must be steered actively. Another concern is that you will remain in front of an approaching storm, rather than sailing out of its path.

Heave-to on a close reach with the jib trimmed to windward. Heaving-to can be an excellent heavy weather tactic, though some boats fare better than others.

Deploy a sea anchor while hove-to or under bare poles. A sea anchor is a small parachute set at the end of a line off the bow. A sea anchor helps keep the bow up into the waves so the boat won’t end up beam to the seas. One concern is the load on the rudder as waves push the boat aft.

Another alternative is lying ahull, simply sitting with sails down. This passive alternative is less reliable than the other tactics, as you lose the ability to control your angle to the waves and may end up beam to the seas. Furthermore, the motion of the boat rolling in the waves without the benefit of sails can be debilitating.

Want to order a storm trysail or storm jib for your boat? Contact a North Sails Expert here .

How to Heave-To

Wouldn’t it be great if, during a heavy air sail, you could just take a break, and relax for a bit? Imagine a short respite from the relentless pitching and pounding: a chance to rest, take a meal, or check over the boat in relative tranquility. Well, you can. The lost art of heaving-to allows you to “park” in open water.

To heave-to, trim the jib aback (i.e., to the wrong side), trim the main in hard, and lash the helm so the boat will head up once it gains steerageway. As the jib tries to push the bow down, the bow turns off the wind and the main fills, moving the boat forward. Once the boat begins to make headway, the lashed helm turns the boat toward the wind again. As the main goes soft the jib once again takes over, pushing the bow down. The main refills, and the rudder pushes the bow into the wind again.

The boat won’t actually stop. It will lie about 60 degrees off the wind, sailing at 1 or 2 knots, and making significant leeway (sliding to leeward). The motion will be much less than under sail, and dramatically more stable and pleasant than dropping all sails and lying ahull. You will also be using up less sea room than if you run before the storm at great speed.

Achieving this balance will require some fine tuning, depending on the wind strength, your boat design, and the sails you are flying. Also, fin-keeled boats do not heave to as well as more traditional designs.

In storm seas, some boats will require a sea anchor off the bow to help hold the boat up into the waves while hove-to.

Alternate Storm Strategy: Don’t Go

If conditions are wrong, or are forecast to worsen, don’t go. If you can avoid the storm, then do so.

If you’re at home, stay there. If you’re mid-cruise, button up the boat, make sure your anchor or mooring or dock lines are secure, and then read a book or play cards. Relax. Enjoy the time with your shipmates. Study the pile of Owners’ Manuals you’ve accumulated with each piece of new gear. Tinker with boat projects.

Put some soup on the stove, and check on deck every so often to make sure the boat is secure. Shake your head as you return below, and remark, “My oh my, is it nasty out there.”

If your boat is threatened by a tropical storm or hurricane, strip all excess gear from the deck, double up all docking or mooring lines, protect those lines from chafe, and get off. Don’t risk your life to save your boat.

Misery and Danger

Although everyone will remember it differently years later, a long, wet, cold sail through a storm can be miserable. As the skipper, you need to make the best of it: watch over your crew, offer relief or help to those who need it, and speak a few words of encouragement to all. “This is miserable, but it will end.”

Take the time to marvel at the forces of nature, and at your ability to carry on in the midst of the storm. Few people get to experience the full fury of a storm. It may not be pleasant, but it is memorable.

While misery and discomfort can eventually lead to fatigue, diminished performance, and even danger, do not mistake one for the other. Distinguish in your own mind the difference between misery and danger. Don’t attempt a dangerous harbor entrance to escape misery; that would compromise the safety of the boat and crew, just to avoid a little discomfort.

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Catamaran Sailing Techniques Part 6: Coping with heavy weather – with Nigel Irens

• Harriett Ferris
• November 10, 2015

Anticipating bad weather is, as in any boat, the best way to prepare for a blow, but if you’re caught out, Nigel Irens has some advice specific to cats

A racing boat that also has access to high-quality weather forecasting data should be able to steer clear of potentially dangerous weather by outrunning it. Performance cruisers with fine bows should be able to surf downwind in all but the most extreme weather, often travelling safely at speeds of 20 knots or more for periods of, say, 10-15 seconds.

But in the same conditions a stubbier, bluff-bowed charter catamaran would soon start feeling dangerous if the crew were pushing too hard under these conditions.

Obviously reducing sail is the first response, but as mentioned earlier in this series, shortening a mainsail in downwind conditions is not really possible without turning head to wind, and if the wind and sea-state are rising then the moment to do that safely may already have passed.

An experienced crew will have anticipated the rising wind and reefed the main a few hours back. Shortening sail forward of the mast is a piece of cake by comparison – especially if all it takes is to let the jib fly and roll up some of the area. Getting rid of an asymmetric might be challenging, but at least it won’t be dangerous.

Being caught with too much sail up along with the knowledge that you’ve missed the chance to round up and reef is not very helpful. You’ve inadvertently got into this situation and you’ve obviously still got to think up some way to get out of it.

Reefing the main

Brute force might provide the get-out-of-jail-free solution for reefing a main downwind in worsening conditions. But this might not be possible as the sail will not drop when you release the halyard because it will be pressing hard against the standing rigging. The luff cars will also be under load from the side (which they are not really designed to be).

If you have left it too late to head up safely, brute force may be the only way to get the main down

The best way forward is to leave the mainsail halyard where it is and sheet the main in until it is no longer pressing against the rigging. Some vang load on the boom will be needed because simply easing the sheet will invite the sail to twist so that it is still hard against the rigging.

The next move is to start loading both the luff and clew reef lines that are ready for hauling in the next reef. When they are bar-tight you can try easing a bit of halyard. If the sail moves that’s good news, but it will only fall a short way before the sail is once again draped over the standing rigging.

It’s only by repeating this process as many times as necessary that the exposed mainsail should end up the size you want it to be. It may be hard work, but who cares if you can feel the relief at getting out of this fix.

Rounding up to reef

If the mainsail still refuses to come down your only remaining option may be to round up. Given that conditions have likely worsened, this may not be very appealing, but careful preparation can help to minimise the stress.

First, ensure that the halyard is flaked and ready to go. You will need one person to focus on this job plus someone on the helm at all times as you cannot afford for the bows to fall away midway through the manoeuvre.

Also, make sure that the reef line(s) is ready to be hauled in, although if things have got this bad and you are expecting worse to come, it may be best simply to drop the mainsail and return to your downwind course as quickly as possible.

If turning upwind to reef, roll up the headsail by about two-thirds to stop it flogging and losing control

If you have a spare pair of hands, make sure someone is available to tail the mainsheet as you come into the breeze to prevent the sheet from flogging violently.

Then, if you can, have someone ready to pull the sail down at the luff. Full length battens on car sliders often mean that the mainsail luff forms tubes when it is lowered, which get inflated with the strong wind and prevent the sail from dropping on its own. The sail may need some help to get it down onto the boom. Make sure that the crewmember tasked with this is clipped on properly and braced ready for the round up into the breeze.

Have the leeward engine running – in neutral is fine – just so that you can give a burst of forward drive if required to keep your steerage and help with a quick bear away once the manoeuvre is complete.

Finally, communication is key. Make sure everyone knows exactly what you are doing and when they need to act. The quicker you can carry out the drop the better – it will be noisy when you head up into the breeze.

Planning for the conditions

It may be that reducing sail is in response to a short-lived squall, after which you’ll be able to make sail again, but if this is the beginning of a more serious blow then you need to have planned what to do as conditions worsen.

You could try sailing under bare poles for a while, but this can feel a little awkward as you may surf quite well down a wave then almost lose steerage way in the troughs, so setting a smidgin of jib will probably feel better as it’s no surprise that being pulled along from the front is more likely to improve steerability than simply being pushed by the wind pressure on the transoms and aft bulkhead.

Either way if the wind continues to rise a time might come when you want to forget about progressing and just render the boat safe while reducing the stress and anxiety of the crew by making things comfortable below.

You might want to remove all sails and proceed under engine

The usual way to achieve this is to set some kind of sea-anchor or drogue, which is designed to do just that, although advising on the right way to go about this is one of those subjects that offers huge scope for deeply entrenched disagreement.

Sea anchors and drogues

The term ‘sea-anchor’ usually refers to a device with an area big enough to hold the boat almost stationary – usually bows on to the seas – whereas a ‘drogue’ is a device intended to slow the boat’s drift downwind.

The consensus among catamaran sailors seems to be that setting a device from the stern works better than from the bow, so the drogue approach is the obvious choice as a full sea anchor tends to hold the sterns down, increasing the risk of taking a tonne of green water in the cockpit.

There are some neat series drogues available now which consist of a strong line with multiple tiny drogues attached to it. That means you effectively have variable power in the ‘braking system’ and can experiment until you get the best result.

Building some confidence in this sort of device through trial and error plays a vital role in preparing to manage real heavy weather. Feeling that you’re on top of this kind of situation also gives you peace of mind.

Staying safe upwind

Staying safe when going upwind is a lot less complicated. To start with if you’re on a standard charter-style catamaran you’d have to be trying pretty hard to get into any serious danger of capsizing.

Deck hardware may be undersized for the obvious reason that it’s a way to limit cost, but it’s also true that anything that makes it hard to power up one of these boats is going to help keep it right-side-up. In any event it soon becomes obvious (through trial and error) that hanging onto too much sail in a rising wind never pays, so reef early and don’t hesitate to press the engine into service.

As the wind rises, don’t put off reefing, shorted sail on the headsail first for control

Reefing is relatively easy upwind, but it’s important to keep the boat moving forward – maybe by keeping the headsail powered up – so you maintain steerage way. If you stop you might get knocked back by a big breaker and that could dig the sterns, which in extreme cases could even result in a stern-first capsize.

More usually, though, avoiding being pushed backwards is more about avoiding rudder damage, which can obviously leave you with a big problem. Starting the leeward engine before reefing (or even tacking) is a good idea just to make sure you can always keep some forward way on and therefore maintain steerage. While strong winds might mean you want to reduce speed, stopping altogether can be just as precarious.

Do’s and don’ts

• DO keep the mainsail area to a minimum when sailing downwind in unpredictable weather.
• DO have a go at reefing downwind, even if conditions don’t call for it. At least you’ll find out how feasible it is, which could be really useful on the day when you’ve been backed into a corner and have to try it for real.
• DO reef early upwind. You’ll probably make better VMG and certainly reduce anxiety on board as the wind rises.
• DON’T trust a stumpy catamaran with high-volume bows. Far from piercing waves downwind it might just trip up if pushed too hard, so don’t push your luck – especially in heavy seas.
• If you’re in a bread-and-butter ‘floating castle’ sort of catamaran DON’T expect miracles upwind. The seamanlike solution often involves applying a bit of engine power.
• DON’T forget that as skipper you’re there to look after the crew, so try not to let fantasies about competing in the Route du Rhum take over. The boat is what it is.

Our eight-part Catamaran Sailing Skills series by Nigel Irens, in association with Pantaenius , is essential reading for anyone considering a catamaran after being more familiar with handling a monohull.

Part 7: Capsize – it’s unlikely, but what to do if the worst should happen

Series author: Nigel Irens

One name stands out when you think of multihull design: the British designer Nigel Irens.

His career began when he studied Boatyard Management at what is now Solent University before opening a sailing school in Bristol and later moving to a multihull yard. He and a friend, Mark Pridie, won their class in the 1978 Round Britain race in a salvaged Dick Newick-designed 31-footer. Later, in 1985, he won the Round Britain Race with Tony Bullimore with whom he was jointly awarded Yachtsman of the Year.

His first major design success came in 1984 when his 80ft LOA catamaran Formule Tag set a new 24-hour run, clocking 518 miles. During the 1990s it was his designs that were dominant on the racecourse: Mike Birch’s Fujicolour , Philippe Poupon’s Fleury Michon VIII , Tony Bullimore’s Apricot . Most famous of all was Ellen MacArthur’s 75ft trimaran B&Q, which beat the solo round the world record in 2005.

His designs have included cruising and racing boats, powerboats and monohulls, but it is multis he is best known for.

See the full series here

A special thanks to The Moorings, which supplied a 4800 cat out of their base in Tortola, BVI. www.moorings.com

A Complete Guide To Sailing In A Storm

Sailing in a storm can be a challenging experience but with the right preparation and techniques, it can be navigated safely in most instances.

While it's best to avoid storms when sailing, there are times when storms cannot be avoided.

To sail in a storm:

• Prepare the sailboat for a storm
• Monitor the weather conditions
• Adjust the sailboat to stabilize the vessel in the storm
• Maintain communication with the coast guard

The number one priority when sailing in a storm is safely navigating through the water during these bad weather conditions.

1. Prepare The Sailboat For A Storm

The first step of sailing in a storm is to prepare the sailboat for storm weather conditions.

To prepare a sailboat for a storm:

• Check the rigging & sails : Assess the rigging and sails overall condition. Ensure they are in full working order with no issues with maneuverability or rips in the sails. There should be a storm sail onboard too in preparation for sailing in the storm
• Ensure safety equipment is onboard : Ensure there are liferafts, life jackets for everyone onboard, life buoys, heaving lines, sailing jackets, flashlights, flares, VHF radios, chartplotter/GPS, first aid kits, and fire extinguishers
• Remove the boat canvas/bimini top : In preparation for sailing in a storm, remove the boat canvas/bimini top to prevent it from getting damaged or destroyed or causing injury to passengers onboard ‍
• Ensure loose items are tied down : Any loose items like lines on the deck should be tied down and secured before sailing in a storm. Loose items can become dislodged and damaged or cause injury to passengers onboard if they are not secured during a storm
• Ensure the sailboat's engine is in great condition : Ensure the sailboat's motor is in perfect condition with sufficient oil and fuel to operate during the storm

Preparing the sailboat for a storm will take approximately 30 minutes to complete. This timeframe will vary depending on the size of the vessel and the amount of equipment needed to be purchased and installed onboard.

In preparing for sailing in a storm, there is certain sailboat equipment needed. The equipment needed for sailing in a storm includes a storm sail, heaving lines, sailing jackets, life jackets, life buoys, liferafts, first aid kit, Chartplotter/GPS, fire extinguishers, VHF radio, and flares.

The benefits of preparing the sailboat for a storm are a sailor will be prepared for any issues caused by the storm and a sailor will have the necessary safety equipment to help keep everyone onboard safe during the storm.

One downside of preparing the sailboat for a storm is it can be costly (over $500) especially if the sailor does not have all the right equipment needed to withstand the stormy weather. However, this is a small downside.

2. Monitor The Weather Conditions

The second step of sailing in a storm is to monitor the weather conditions regularly.

To monitor the weather conditions:

• Connect to the VHF radio weather channel : Connect to channel 16 on the VHF radio as this channel provides storm warnings and urgent marine information for boaters
• Use a chartplotter : Modern chartplotters will have marine weather data for boaters to monitor the weather conditions and check windspeeds, rainfall levels, wave height and other relevant marine weather data
• Check a marine weather forecast provider website : If you have internet access on the sailing trip, connect to a marine weather provider for marine weather forecast information in your area

In sailing, weather conditions are considered a storm when the wind speed is 28 knots or higher and the wave heights are 8ft or higher. Other characteristics of stormy weather when sailing is poor visibility with visibility ranges of under half a mile (0.8km or less) and heavy rain with a precipitation rate of at least 0.1 inches (2.5 millimeters) per hour.

It can take approximately 3 to 6 hours for a storm to fully develop when sailing. However, for larger storms, it can take over 2 days for the storm to fully develop.

Monitoring the weather should be done every 20 minutes when sailing in a storm to get up-to-date information on potential nearby locations with better weather to sail to.

The benefit of regularly monitoring the weather conditions is a sailor will be more prepared for the weather that lies ahead and the sailor will be able to make adjustments to their sailing route to help avoid the bad weather.

3. Adjust The Sailboat To Stabilize The Vessel

The third step of sailing in a storm is to adjust the sailboat to stabilize the vessel.

When sailing through the storm, reef the sails to reduce the stress and load on the mast and sails, attach the storm sails, turn the vessel until the wave and wind direction are blowing from the stern of the sailboat, i.e. the wind is blowing downwind. Carefully tack the sailboat slowly until the boat is in the downwind position. Pointing the sailboat downwind is not recommended if the sailboat is near land as it could cause the boat to run into the land.

Alternatively, if the storm is very bad, sailors can perform a "heaving to" storm sailing maneuver.

To perform the heave-to storm sailing maneuver:

• Turn the bow of the boat into the wind : This involves turning the sailboat so that the bow faces into the wind. This will cause the boat to lose forward momentum and begin to drift backward
• Adjust the sails : Depending on the size and configuration of your boat, you may need to adjust the sails in different ways. In general, you will want to position the sails so that they are catching less wind and are working against each other. This will help to slow the boat's drift and keep it from moving too quickly
• Adjust the rudder : You may need to adjust the rudder to keep the boat from turning too far or too fast. In general, you will want to angle the rudder slightly to one side to counteract the wind and keep the boat on a stable course
• Monitor the boat's drift : Once you have heaved-to, you will need to monitor the boat's drift and make small adjustments as needed to maintain your position. This may involve adjusting the sails, rudder, or other factors as conditions change

The heaving to maneuver is used to reduce a sailboat's speed and maintain a stationary position. This is often done in rough weather to provide the crew with a stable platform to work from or to wait out a storm.

This sailing maneuver will adjust the sailboat and should stabilize the vessel in the storm.

The benefits of adjusting the sailboat position in a storm are it will help to stabilize the boat, it will improve safety, it will reduce the crew's fatigue as the crew will not be operating with a boat at higher speeds, it will help maintain control of the sailboat, and it will reduce stress on the sailboat and the rigging system.

Depending on the size of the sailboat, how bad the weather conditions are, and a sailor's experience level, adjusting the sailboat to stabilize it in the storm should take approximately 10 minutes to complete.

4. Maintain Communication With The Coast Guard

The fourth step of sailing in a storm is to maintain communication with the coast guard.

This is particularly important if the storm is over Beaufort Force 7 when sailing is much harder.

To maintain communication with the coast guard during a storm:

• Understand the important VHF channels : During sailing in a storm, be aware of VHF international channel 16 (156.800 MHz) which is for sending distress signals
• Ensure there are coast guard contact details on your phone : Put the local coast guard contact details into your phone. These contact details are not substitutes for using the VHF channel 16 distress signal or dialing 911. These contact details should only be contacted if all else fails

Contacting the coast guard takes less than 1 minute to complete and they are fast to respond in case of an emergency caused by the storm.

The benefits of maintaining communication with the coast guard during a storm are it will help improve safety, the coast guard will be able to provide real-time alerts, and it will provide navigation assistance as the coast guard has access to the latest navigation technology and can guide you through the storm's hazardous areas such as shallow waters or areas with a strong current.

Frequently Asked Questions About Sailing In A Storm

Below are the most commonly asked questions about sailing in a storm.

What Should You Do If You're Caught Sailing In A Storm With Your Boat?

if you're caught sailing in a storm with your boat, you should reef the sails, attach the storm sails and tack the vessel slowly until the wave and wind direction are blowing from the stern of the sailboat.

Should You Drop An Anchor When Sailing In A Storm?

Dropping an anchor can be a useful technique to help keep a boat steady during a storm. However, whether or not to drop an anchor depends on a variety of factors including the size and type of the boat, the severity of the storm, the water depth, and the type of bottom (i.e., mud, sand, or rock).

If you are in a smaller boat that is being pushed around by the waves, dropping an anchor can help keep the boat oriented in a particular direction, reducing the boat's drift. Additionally, it can help reduce the risk of capsizing or being thrown onto a rocky shore.

However, if the storm is very severe with high winds and waves, the anchor may not be enough to hold the boat in place, and it may put undue stress on the anchor and the boat's attachment points. In such a case, it is usually better to try to navigate to a sheltered area or to deploy sea anchors that can help reduce the boat's drift.

It is also essential to be careful when anchoring in a storm as it can be challenging to set the anchor correctly and the wind and waves can cause the anchor to drag.

Is It Safe To Sail In A Storm?

Sailing in a storm should be avoided due to the lack of safety. However, experienced sailors can sail in storms up to Beaufort Force 7 if required. Beaufort Force 8 and higher storms are extremely dangerous to sail in and should be avoided at all costs.

How Do You Improve Safety When Sailing In A Storm?

To improve safety when sailing in a storm, wear a life jacket, hook everyone onboard up to a safety line or harness so they don't fall overboard, reef the sail to improve the sailboat's stability, and understand where all the safety equipment is onboard and how to operate it in case of an emergency.

What Type Of Storm Should Not Be Sailed In?

A sailor should not sail in any storm but especially a storm from Beaufort Force 8 to Beaufort Force 12 as it is considered to be too dangerous.

Can You Sail Through A Hurricane?

While sailors have successfully sailed through hurricanes in the past, sailing through a hurricane should be avoided at all costs. Sailing in hurricane weather is too dangerous and could result in loss of life.

What Are The Benefits Of Sailing In A Storm?

The benefits of sailing in a storm are:

• Improves sailing skills : Sailing in a storm will force sailors to improve their sailing skills and increase their ability to handle rough seas
• Exciting experience : For some sailors, the thrill of navigating through a storm can be an exhilarating experience that they enjoy. The adrenaline rush and sense of accomplishment of successfully sailing through a storm can be incredibly rewarding
• Greater appreciation for the power of nature : Sailing in a storm can provide a unique perspective on the power of nature. It can be humbling and awe-inspiring to witness the raw force of the wind and waves and this can lead to a greater appreciation for the natural world

It's important to note that these potential benefits should never come at the expense of safety. For the majority of sailors, it is smarter to avoid sailing in a storm and instead wait for the bad weather to pass.

What Are The Risks Of Sailing In A Storm?

The risks of sailing in a storm are:

• Boat sinking/capsizing : With high winds over 28 knots and waves and swells at heights over 8ft, there is a risk of the sailboat capsizing and sinking
• People drowning : High winds and high waves during a storm can cause people onboard to fall overboard and drown
• Loss of communication : Bad storm weather can cause the sailboat's communication system to stop working making it much harder to signal for help if needed
• Boat damage : Storm weather can damage the boat including the sails, mast, rigging system, lines, Bimini top, etc.
• Poor visibility : Sea spray, large waves over 8ft, and heavy winds over 28 knots can reduce the visibility to under 500 meters in some instances making it difficult for navigation
• People being injured : People onboard can get injured due to the increase and sharp movements caused by the storm

What Should Be Avoided When Sailing In A Storm?

When sailing in a storm, avoid:

• Getting caught sailing in the storm in the first place : Ideally, a sailor should avoid sailing in the storm in the first place by checking the weather radar and instead wait for the weather to clear before continuing their sailing trip
• Increasing the sail area : Increasing the sail area in a storm should be avoided as it can cause the sailboat to become more unstable and increase the risk of capsizing
• Not wearing a life jacket : Life jackets should be worn at all times when sailing but especially during a storm. Avoid not wearing a life jacket in a storm as there is no protection if someone falls overboard
• Not wearing the appropriate gear to stay dry : Sailors should avoid not wearing the appropriate foul weather gear to stay dry when sailing in a storm
• Not connecting the crew to safety lines/harness : When sailing in a storm, all crew on the boat deck should be
• Not understanding the safety equipment : Sailors should avoid not understanding the safety equipment onboard

How Do You Avoid Sailing In A Storm?

To avoid sailing in a storm, check the weather forecast regularly when going on a sailing trip to know when and where not to sail as the weather gets worse in these areas. If a sailing trip involves passing through a storm, wait in an area where there is no storm until the weather clears up in the storm area before continuing on the voyage.

What Are The Best Sailboats For Sailing In A Storm?

The best sailboats for sailing in a storm are the Nordic 40, Hallberg-Rassy 48, and the Outremer 55.

What Are The Worst Sailboats For Sailing In A Storm?

The worst sailboats for sailing in a storm are sailing dinghies as they offer little protection from the dangers of stormy weather.

What Is The Best Sized Sailboat For Sailing In A Storm?

The best-sized sailboats to sail in a storm are sailboats sized 30ft. and longer.

What Is The Worst Sized Sailboat For Sailing In A Storm?

The worst-sized sailboats to sail in a storm are sailboats sized under 30ft. as it is more difficult to handle rough weather and choppy waves in these boats.

What To Do When Sailing In A Storm

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

Although it’s always advisable to avoid storms as much as possible, they are part of life at sea and sometimes you can’t avoid them. But when a storm comes your way, you should understand how to set up for the storm and how to deal with the worst.

You’ve probably asked yourself; what is it like to sail through a storm? Well, it can be the scariest thing to ever happen in your life. Sailing through a storm will test your strength, endurance, seamanship, and steering skills to the bitter limits. It can wreak serious havoc on your sailboat and any sailor, whether a beginner or experienced should know what to do in a storm when sailing.

Huge storms at sea are a requisite of fear and uncertainty. In most cases, it will sap morale, lead to poor decision making, make the crew members exhausted, and leave everyone in panic mode. Fortunately, it doesn’t need to. In addition to properly preparing the boat, you’ll require a well-thought-out strategy to deal with the sudden and unpredictable changes in weather. More importantly, you should make sure that everybody stays safe, remain calm, and work toward a common goal: overcoming the storm.

In this article, you’ll get to learn about what to do should storm come your way while out there on the water.

Table of contents

Check Your Boat before Sailing

Surviving a storm requires a great level of preparedness and it all begins long before setting out on a sail. As such, your chances of weathering a storm will increase if your boat is properly prepared to endure bad days on the water. A major part of controlling your boat and the crew in a heavy storm is being prepared for the worst. This means that you should have your boat properly rigged to easily access anything in short order.

Whether you can see a storm coming from far away or see it within seconds and on top of your head, the boat should be well prepared to deal with any condition. It’s fundamental to ensure that your lifelines are secure, the lines are strong and unworn, and all the emergency gear is on board and up to date. You should also update yourself on the weather on the days you’re planning to go out though it may be inaccurate.

Tactics for Sailing in Storm

The sailboat is, of course, stronger than people, which means that the main priority is to protect yourself, the crew, and the passengers. In addition to having enough life jackets and harness for everyone in the sailboat, you should take early action to avoid injuries and any form of seasickness as these can affect your safety.

You should also exercise situational awareness by watching your surroundings and monitoring the situation to determine whether the storm is decreasing or worsening. If the situation prolongs, it’s essential to ensure that everybody remains calm, keeps warm and takes time to eat and rest. In other words, this is the right time to show your man-management. Make sure that you maintain high spirits and that everybody works in tandem and are on the same wavelength. This will only work if you calmly work out a plan and communicate the plan to everyone.

Some of the best tactics to use in storm include sailing under storm jib, applying deeply reefed mainsail or applying storm trysail. These tactics will not only give you more control but will also give you more power to steer the boat in the waves. You can also run before the storm and try towing the drogue to slow down the boat.

Stay Away from the Shallows

The first thing that will come to your mind when a storm begins is to drop your sails, start the motor engine, and head off for the land. Well, this can be a very concrete plan as long as you can reach the harbor and dock the boat.

On the contrary, things can become worse if you get stuck in shallow waters. And even if you’re experienced, steering a boat out of the shallows is something else. This is because the winds can rapidly blow you onto the rocks and other obstructions, which can make it a lot more difficult. The engine will most likely die when you need it most.

For this reason, the best option is to stay in open water and use your skills to calmly ride out of the storm.

It’s important to start reefing as soon as you anticipate the storm. The idea here is that you shouldn’t have a lot of sails up in strong winds as this can make the sailboat to capsize. Again, it would be a lot easier to jib or furl the boat if the sails are up. Keep in mind that you should reef the sails when the wind is still manageable. As such, you should pay attention and monitor the winds at all times. Again, do not leave the cockpit if the winds are becoming stronger the boat is being tossed around.

Invest in Storm Sails

There are special sails that can be of great help in heavy winds. Although regular sails can be easily furled and still maintain shape and offer the required efficiency, a storm sail will make it much easier. It will enable you to continue sailing in a storm while reducing the effects of the heavy winds and the big waves.

Sailing in Storms

As we noted earlier, sailing in storms is a huge test of your experience, steering skill, and your overall seamanship. It’s, therefore, important to put your best foot forward and steer the boat effectively without panicking. For instance, you should refrain from sailing across tall breaking waves as they can easily capsize the boat. You should instead sail toward the flat spots while maintaining a high speed to steer out of the huge waves.

You should also target smooth waters if any to prevent the waves from washing across the deck. You can rig a preventer to hold the boom out while being extra careful not to broach the boat’s beam.

Honestly speaking, going through the storm can be a very miserable experience. The most important thing is to ensure that everybody in the body is safe and out of danger. In fact, do not risk your life to save the boat. Of course, your skills, experience, and willpower will be tested to the limits but you should remain calm and come up with a proper strategy that will help you steer the boat to safety. For instance, avoid shallow waters, reef as soon as possible, have storm sails. And make sure that everybody is reading from the same page. More importantly, avoid going out on the water if there’s an impending storm.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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The Storm Sailing Techniques

Navigating through a storm while sailing can be a daunting task, but with the right techniques and preparation, it can be done safely and confidently. This comprehensive guide provides essential tips and insights to help sailors tackle the challenges of storm sailing and enjoy the adventure.

Sailing is an adventurous and fulfilling lifestyle, but it also comes with its fair share of challenges. One of the most daunting aspects of sailing is dealing with storms. Storms can be unpredictable, and they can test the skills and resilience of even the most experienced sailors. In this article, we will discuss various storm sailing techniques and preparation tips to help you navigate through these challenging situations with confidence and ease.

Table of Contents

Understanding storms and weather patterns, preparation before setting sail, running before the storm, forereaching, lying ahull, storm sailing gear and equipment, safety tips and best practices.

Before we delve into storm sailing techniques, it’s essential to understand the basics of storms and weather patterns. Storms are caused by the interaction of warm and cold air masses, which can lead to the formation of low-pressure systems. These systems can produce strong winds, heavy rain, and rough seas, making sailing in these conditions challenging and potentially dangerous.

To prepare for storm sailing, it’s crucial to familiarize yourself with weather patterns and forecasting tools. By understanding the signs of an approaching storm and monitoring weather forecasts, you can make informed decisions about when to set sail and when to seek shelter.

Proper preparation is key to ensuring a safe and successful storm sailing experience. Here are some essential steps to take before setting sail:

Check the weather forecast: Always check the weather forecast before embarking on a sailing trip. Look for any signs of storms or adverse weather conditions, and plan your route accordingly.

Inspect your boat: Perform a thorough inspection of your boat, checking for any signs of damage or wear that could compromise its performance in a storm. Pay particular attention to the rigging, sails, and hull.

Prepare your crew: Ensure that your crew is well-trained and familiar with storm sailing techniques. Discuss your plans and expectations with them, and make sure everyone knows their roles and responsibilities in case of a storm.

Pack essential gear and supplies: Stock up on essential gear and supplies, such as extra food, water, and clothing, as well as safety equipment like life jackets, flares, and a well-stocked first aid kit.

Create a storm plan: Develop a storm plan that outlines your intended course of action in case of a storm. This plan should include details on how to secure the boat, communicate with your crew, and manage any emergencies that may arise.

Storm Sailing Techniques

There are several storm sailing techniques that can help you navigate through rough seas and strong winds. The best technique for your situation will depend on factors such as the size and type of your boat, the severity of the storm, and your level of experience. Here are some common storm sailing techniques to consider:

Heaving-to is a storm sailing technique that involves slowing the boat down and positioning it at an angle to the wind and waves. This technique can help you maintain control of your boat and reduce the risk of damage from strong winds and rough seas.

To heave-to, follow these steps:

• Tack the boat without releasing the jib sheet.
• Adjust the mainsail so that it’s slightly luffing.
• Turn the rudder in the opposite direction of the wind.
• Adjust the sails and rudder as needed to maintain a steady position.

Heaving-to can be an effective technique for riding out a storm, as it allows you to maintain control of your boat while minimizing the risk of damage. However, it’s essential to monitor your boat’s position and make adjustments as needed to avoid drifting into dangerous areas.

Running before the storm is a technique that involves sailing downwind, allowing the wind and waves to push your boat along. This technique can help you maintain control of your boat and reduce the risk of damage from strong winds and rough seas.

To run before the storm, follow these steps:

• Set your sails for downwind sailing, with the mainsail on one side of the boat and the jib on the other.
• Steer the boat so that it’s running parallel to the waves, with the wind and waves coming from behind.
• Adjust your course as needed to maintain a steady downwind run.

Running before the storm can be an effective technique for managing strong winds and rough seas, but it’s essential to monitor your boat’s position and make adjustments as needed to avoid drifting into dangerous areas.

Forereaching is a storm sailing technique that involves sailing slowly into the wind, allowing the boat to make forward progress while minimizing the risk of damage from strong winds and rough seas.

To forereach, follow these steps:

• Set your sails for upwind sailing, with the mainsail and jib both trimmed in tightly.
• Steer the boat into the wind, maintaining a close-hauled course.
• Adjust your sails and rudder as needed to maintain a slow, steady speed.

Forereaching can be an effective technique for managing strong winds and rough seas, but it’s essential to monitor your boat’s position and make adjustments as needed to avoid drifting into dangerous areas.

Lying ahull is a storm sailing technique that involves allowing the boat to drift freely, with the sails down and the rudder centered. This technique can help you conserve energy and reduce the risk of damage from strong winds and rough seas.

To lie ahull, follow these steps:

• Lower and secure all sails.
• Center the rudder and lock it in place.
• Monitor your boat’s position and make adjustments as needed to avoid drifting into dangerous areas.

Lying ahull can be an effective technique for riding out a storm, but it’s essential to monitor your boat’s position and make adjustments as needed to avoid drifting into dangerous areas.

Having the right gear and equipment on board can make a significant difference in your storm sailing experience. Here are some essential items to consider:

Storm sails: Storm sails are smaller, more robust sails designed for use in strong winds and rough seas. They can help you maintain control of your boat and reduce the risk of damage.

Sea anchor or drogue: A sea anchor or drogue is a device that can be deployed in the water to help slow your boat down and maintain a steady position. This can be particularly useful when using storm sailing techniques like heaving-to or running before the storm.

Heavy-duty foul weather gear: Investing in high-quality foul weather gear, such as waterproof jackets, pants, and boots, can help keep you dry and comfortable during storm sailing.

Harnesses and tethers: Wearing a harness and tether can help keep you secure on deck during storm sailing, reducing the risk of injury or falling overboard.

Waterproof communication devices: Having waterproof communication devices, such as VHF radios or satellite phones, can help you stay in touch with your crew and monitor weather updates during storm sailing.

Storm sailing can be challenging and potentially dangerous, so it’s essential to prioritize safety at all times. Here are some safety tips and best practices to keep in mind:

Monitor the weather: Stay informed about weather conditions and forecasts, and be prepared to adjust your plans as needed.

Communicate with your crew: Keep your crew informed about your plans and expectations, and make sure everyone knows their roles and responsibilities during storm sailing.

Practice storm sailing techniques: Regularly practice storm sailing techniques with your crew, so everyone is familiar with the procedures and can respond quickly and effectively in case of a storm.

Stay on deck: During storm sailing, it’s essential to stay on deck and monitor your boat’s position and performance. This can help you identify and address any issues before they become more significant problems.

Stay tethered: Always wear a harness and tether when on deck during storm sailing, to reduce the risk of injury or falling overboard.

Storm sailing can be a challenging and exhilarating experience, but it’s essential to be well-prepared and prioritize safety at all times. By understanding storms and weather patterns, preparing your boat and crew, and mastering storm sailing techniques, you can navigate through rough seas and strong winds with confidence and ease. Remember to always monitor the weather, communicate with your crew, and practice storm sailing techniques regularly to ensure a safe and successful storm sailing experience.

Sail Far Live Free

Heavy weather tactics: 5 options for sailing through a storm.

• Do you have enough sea room to allow the boat to crab slowly to leeward? The answer will obviously vary depending on your distance shore, the direction of the wind/current, and the longevity of the storm conditions. Remember, heaving-to is a passive tactic, so you’ve got to be o.k. with letting the boat do its thing while you hunker down in the cabin.
• Are your sails and rigging up to the task? As with many storm tactics, your sails and rigging will be subjected to high loads and chafe. Is your boat equipped with storm sails that can handle strong winds and potential flogging? Our boat's sails wouldn't be up to the task of remaining hove-to for hours on end, but I'm confident that I could ride out a short summer squall. 
• How well does your particular boat heave-to and will it remain hove-to without putting your beam to the seas? Large swells and breaking waves can be trouble for a boat that doesn’t like to heave-to.
• Do you have sea room to run off? That is, is there land, shallow water or other dangers downwind of your position that make this tactic unadvisable? Furthermore, will running off simply serve to keep you in the path of the storm longer than an alternative tactic? 
• Can you maintain steering with the wind and waves on your stern quarters or directly abaft?
• Do you need to deploy a drogue or warps to slow your forward speed in order to maintain control and keep from being overpowered by the waves?
• Are you up for the physically exhausting challenge of manually steering your ship for potentially hours or days on end? 

• Sailing a Serious Ocean by John Kretschmer
• The Voyager's Handbook by Beth Leonard
• Heavy Weather Sailing by Peter Bruce
• Storm Tactics Handbook by Lin and Larry Pardey
• Bluewater Handbook by Steve Dashew
• Heavy Weather Sailing Tips - An interview with Allen Breckall on The Sailing Podcast
• Mahina Expeditions - Learn from longtime cruisers and offshore sailors John and Amanda Neal
• YaYa Blues  - Join John Kretschmer for a workshop or participate as crew on an expedition

Lots of great advice and references in there, thanks for all the helpful tips! We were caught in an unexpected gale in the Gulf Stream this year with winds sustained out of the north averaging 45 knots for a good 90 minutes. We were running off under bare poles until the winds subsided to the mid 30's, but it worked out well for us.

Thanks Jessica. That's exactly the kind of real world experience I was hoping folks would share in the comments.

We were in a big storm in Stewart Island - New Zealand - getting blown on to a lee shore. We tried to start the motor to help us crab to windward, but in one knock down the motor must have got a big gulp of air instead of diesel. Anyway it meant that the motor cut out. So if you do try and use your motor to assist, make sure you have got a full tank of fuel.

Concerning lying a-hull, it's interesting to read Alan Villiers's account of using this tactic with the Mayflower-II during her crossing in 1957. He wrote "we had no idea what would happen,as no one had attempted this in a ship of this type in over 200 years..." He went on to note that with the sails down, and the rudder lashed to leeward, she pointed up nicely and "lay as a duck on a pond with her head tucked under her wing." (I'm paraphrasing here, since I can't find my copy of Men Ships and the Sea at the moment...) Its' worth noting that ships of that type, with their huge, boxy top-sides had substantially different windage characteristics than our sleek modern designs. From what I've been able to glean, lying a-hull in a square-rigged galleon 300 years ago probably wasn't a terribly different proposition than heaving to under a back-winded jib today.

I should have added that as I understand it at least, it was a maneuver designed to keep the waves on your stern quarter. Same principles, just facing a different direction? I'm gonna have to find my copy of that darn book now, as I'm confusing myself and sounding like an idiot.

Thanks for your wonderful and so helpful tips. We also would like to invite you to our Sailing Community - Clubtray Sailing Clubtray Sailing where members could be more helpful by your great advices and references. Hope to read more kind of real world experiences from you soon.

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Dealing with bad weather on a catamaran

Home The Blue Blog Dealing with bad weather on a catamaran

The bad sea is the greatest fear when you are at sea, even if the chances of being caught in a storm are very remote. Every good sailor knows how and when to face the sea, modern weather systems guarantee precise and continuous bulletins. However, facing bad weather on a catamaran is certainly easier and safer than many other boats. Avoiding the rough sea is easy, but if fate wants you to find yourself in the middle, these boats offer exceptional performance. Modern catamarans are very durable, even in rough seas, and they have excellent buoyancy. The risk of a reversal is certainly poor, it can withstand sustained waves and wind. There are areas where time can change abruptly, but not to the point of surprising a boat unless you sail on ocean routes. The particular structure of the catamarans allows good navigability and maneuvering management, in addition to the fact that it can also reach a good cruising speed. Obviously the skipper needs to know his business, because if the wind was badly caught it could lift the catamaran with compromising consequences.

What to do to face bad weather on a catamaran

The psychological side is fundamental, never panic and evaluate all possible options. The first thing to do is update on the weather conditions of the route taken, taking into account the direction of the storm, the distance of the nearest port and possible escape routes. All with the necessary coldness and lucidity in these cases, panic does not help and only complicates things. When the situation is clear, the most correct strategy must be adopted to avoid the risk of finding yourself in the middle of the rough sea. Organizing the crew and passengers in a precautionary way, prevention can always prevent the worst. Every member of the crew must be ready to offer his contribution if necessary. Always wear life jackets and belts, and lock all moving objects that could be thrown into the cabin by storing them in the lockers. If the tender is in the water, hoist it on board and tie it securely to prevent it from drifting or becoming a problem on the deck. Close all the hatches and portholes to prevent the water from entering the cabin, the rain could be sudden and copious.

Precautions not to be surprised by the rough sea

Obviously all the actions and precautions must be carried out to avoid the worst and not to be caught unprepared, if you approach even the storm, the effects will be largely mitigated. The catamaran can face the rough sea but it is necessary to know its qualities but also its limits. If everything is done as it should, the chances of even discomfort will be minimal.

Most of the time the weather warnings arrive even days in advance, so the surprise effect is certainly to be excluded. In any case, every possibility must be taken into serious consideration, being ready for any bad weather, rain or rough sea is necessary.

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Heavy Weather Tactics

Scores of books have been written about heavy weather sailing, but few of them address the particulars of multihulls and their individual considerations. Monohulls have more commonalities as a group, therefore there are more general guidelines. Storm tactics for multihulls will depend more on the capabilities of crew and vessel than any other factors.

Barreling along at 18 knots in strong winds can be thrilling and is a highlight of multihull sailing. Making no seamanship errors will be as important as the simplest rules of keeping all lines neatly organized and kink free. Often tangled lines have gotten sailors into more trouble than anything else. Keeping a neat cockpit and thinking ahead are the cheapest insurances against mishaps.

In heavy weather the boat should be set up with appropriate safety lines and attaching yourself to them must be mandatory, even if one only ventures briefly into the cockpit. All crew should wear full gear and always have their life jackets at the ready. Each member should have a strobe, knife and whistle permanently attached and there always should be a big knife with a serrated edge mounted in the cockpit to quickly cut a jammed line, if necessary. Basic safety drills, location of life saving equipment, rafts and throw-able MOB devices must be known to each crewmember. Everyone on board must understand the crucial function of EPIRBs, VHFs, firefighting equipment, as well as engine operation and bilge-pump system. It is all really common sense.

If in the highly unlikely event that you capsize, stay with the boat at all costs. Rig one life raft or dinghy to the underside of the bridge deck, fly a kite and wait for help. Never, ever separate from the mother ship as your chances of being spotted will be close to zero in a raft. Staying warm, hydrated, and clear headed will be as important as keeping crew morale up. Salvage as much food and water as you can and secure them, as waves in the interior will wash them out any opening. It has been suggested to await help in the upturned vessel, but unless it is a perfect calm, it will be impossible. Wave surges in the cabins will be violent and there will be leaking battery acid, foul smells and floating objects that will force you onto the upturned platform of the bridge deck.

Storm strategies will depend on the sea state. The shorter and higher the wave faces, the more critical correct seamanship will be. It is my opinion that the use of sea anchors should be carefully weighed and avoided if one can actively deal with the conditions. In theory, they work well if conditions do not change. The crew can rest and the multihull will make nominal drift downwind, provided there is minimal searoom. But the sea is a chaotic environment and waves do not always remain in one and the same pattern, direction, and period. The forces and loads on the boat when tied to a parachute type device can be huge.

True and Apparent Wave Height

Imagine your boat hanging off a sea anchor and suddenly a wave from a different direction slams into the boat from the side. As the boat is not moving, actually drifting slightly backwards, it will not have any possibility to handle this odd rogue wave. The catamaran might be overwhelmed and rotate around its longitudinal axis and flip. Most cruising catamarans that have capsized were constricted by sea anchors. In one well-documented incident, the parachute's lines caught under the rudders and turned the boat.

A sea anchor might lull you into a false sense of security and your vigilance will be reduced. Being caught with your guard down is the most dangerous situation, and I feel it is better to actively deal with storm conditions, rather than letting the boat drift off a sea anchor. Besides, retrieval and deployment are risky, and if not done properly the first time, they can subject crew and boat to more risks.

This is not to say that a parachute anchor does not work. On the contrary, many multihulls have ridden out hurricanes with these devices. Personally, I would want to position the boat to sail with the seas if there is sea room. The vessel's speed should be adjusted to the wave period and therefore would reduce the relative impact of waves. If one's cat sails too fast, even without sails up, a drogue or warps could be dragged behind the boat. Streaming warps off a stern bridle will also be helpful if the boat has lost steerage. It will keep the bows pointing downwind. Ideally, seas should be taken off the rear quarter in order to present the longest diagonal axis to them. This will be the most stable attitude, and a good multihull will be able to handle the most severe conditions. A well-working autopilot, an alert crew, and a strong boat will get you through anything. Concentration will deteriorate as the conditions worsen and any mistake will be very difficult to rectify. Your margin for error will be minimal and advance thinking and anticipation will be key. Approaching a safe harbor during heavy weather can be nerve-wracking and should be carefully weighed with the risk of running aground and encountering much rougher than usual inlets. Often standing off will take discipline but be safer.

Again it should be mentioned that everyone manages differently with storm conditions and there is not necessarily only one right or wrong way to do it. Making the vessel's speed work for you and being able to

Wave heights make great subjects for sea tales, but the altitude of seas are often overestimated. Especially on smaller vessels, when the horizon is hidden, one feels that the seas are steeper than they actually are. The apparent gravitational pull makes one think that the boat is sailing parallel on the horizontal plane. Usually however, the boat is already ascending the next wave, leading to estimation errors as high as 50% in judging wave heights.

Safely slowing the multihull is accomplished by streaming warps or trailing a special drogue. A large bridle is either fastened to the windward hull or to the sterns.

Streaming Warps or a Drogue to Slow Down

Streaming Warps or a Drogue to Slow Down outrun a system will reduce your exposure time. Drifting slowly downwind tied to a sea anchor will expose you to bad weather longer. The advantage of a fast catamaran should be used to get you out of trouble, or even better, by using today's advanced meteorological forecasts, you might be able to avoid it entirely. Yet, once you are in storm conditions, slowing down the boat to retain full control will be challenging.

If there is no sea room, or one is forced to claw upwind, reducing speed to minimize wave impact is imperative to the comfort of the crew and safety of the boat. Finding the right groove between stalling and too much speed is important. You do not want to be caught by a wave slamming into you, bringing you to a halt. This could end up in a lack of steerage and, in the worst case, you could be flipped backwards. Always keep on sailing at a manageable speed and if your boat has daggerboards, both boards should be down one third only. Head closer to the wind towards the top of the wave, and fall off as the boat sails down the slope. This will aid in keeping the sails drawing and boat speed in check. Structural shocks upwind in very strong winds can be very tough, so find the right speed. Reducing your main to 3 or even 4 reefs and furling your headsail for balance will drive you to weather. We all know that this will not be comfortable, but if there is no choice other than to windward, one will manage until conditions have abated. Flatten sails as much as you can to depower the boat. If you need to tack, plan ahead, do it decisively, and with plenty of momentum. You do not want to be caught in irons while drifting backwards. Loads on the rudders with the boat going in reverse can damage the steering, leaving you crippled.

Running off at a controllable speed is the safest way to handle a storm. If you are deep reaching or sailing downwind with the storm, retract both boards if your boat has daggerboards. In the event that the catamaran is skittish and hard to steer, lower one foot of daggerboard on both sides. Long, well balanced, high-aspect-ratio hulls, especially ones equipped with skegs far aft, will track well, even without boards. A tiny amount of jib sheeted hard amidships might be all that is needed to point the boat downwind. Reduce the boat to a speed where you are just a fraction slower than the waves.

Keep in mind that the term "slow" is relative as this could still mean that you are traveling at well over 15 knots!

Sailing with the beam to the storm and seas should be avoided at any cost. If, because of say navigational issues, one has no choice, both daggerboards must be lifted to assure sideways slippage.

Heaving-to is a tactic which lets the boat sail controlled, almost stationary, and should be used only if one has no more alternatives.

This could be caused by crew exhaustion or mechanical issues with the boat. When heaving-to, the helm is locked to windward, a tiny scrap of jib sheeted to weather, and/or a heavily reefed mainsail can be set. The traveler should be let off to leeward and, theoretically, the multihull will steadily work herself to windward. At 40 degrees, she will either be stationary or slightly fore-reach. This does not work on all multihulls and different mainsail and jib combinations should be tested. Also letting the main or jib luff slightly will take speed off the boat, if

far right Boarding via the transom platform, any guest will easily find his/her way to the spacious cockpit by walking down wide, teak-covered steps. Notice the lack of any sail controls or helm station - they are all located out of the way, on the flybridge above.

so desired. Catamarans with daggerboards should only have very little windward board down to avoid tripping.

Similar to "heaving-to" lying-a-hull differs from boat to boat. In this attitude the boat will carry no sails at all and fend for herself. In case of daggerboards, retract them. Most boats will take the seas on their beams (not my favorite) and let the waves pass under them by surfing sideways. Just as trying to avoid the use of sea anchors, this tactic should only be reverted to if one has exhausted every other possibility.

There are a few generalities that will help you learn about heavy weather sailing tactics. Fine-tuning the sails will help depower the boat. As the wind increases, move the mainsail sheeting point to leeward. This is one of the best features of multihull sailing. Multihulls have wide travelers and an extensive sheeting base which allows for more choices for sail trim than narrow boats. Ease off the traveler to move the main to leeward and use a strong outside rail attachment point, such as a cleat or toe rail track to move the jib to leeward. As the wind strengthens, reduce camber and flatten the sails. Double up preventers and reef lines to create backups and divide the loads. In the end, knowing when to reef and how to control your cat is the most important skill to develop to prepare for heavy weather sailing. Practicing maneuvers in strong conditions will raise your level of confidence and prepare you for the worst Mother Nature might have in store for us.

Heaving-to is an important "parking" technique that should be practiced by every catamaran owner. One tacks from a close-hauled position and either luffs the mainsail or furls it completely. Once on the other tack, the jib is left on the "wrong" side and the helm is turned hard to windward. Every multihull will behave differently, and one has to experiment how hard the headsail must be sheeted in or how far the rudders must be turned. Keel catamarans will behave slightly differently than daggerboard cats. The headsail will keep the bows turned away from the seas, while the rudders will prevent the boat from presenting her beams to the waves. In the heave-to attitude, the catamaran will fore-reach and slightly drift to leeward.

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Readers' Questions

What size waves can a caramaran handle?

The size of waves that a catamaran can handle depends on various factors, including the design and build quality of the specific catamaran, the experience and skill of the captain and crew, and the conditions of the sea and weather. In general, catamarans are known for their stability and ability to handle moderate to large waves. Some larger, more robust catamarans are designed for offshore sailing and can handle rough open ocean conditions, including large waves of several meters in height. However, smaller or lighter catamarans may be more suitable for calmer or sheltered waters and may have limitations in handling very large waves. It is important to consult the manufacturer's recommendations and consider the specific characteristics of a catamaran before taking it into rough seas. Additionally, it is essential to have proper training and experience to safely handle a catamaran in challenging wave conditions.

Are catamarans good in rough water?

Yes, catamarans are generally considered to be good in rough water. The design of a catamaran with two hulls provides better stability and maneuverability compared to a monohull. The wide beam and low center of gravity of a catamaran make it less prone to capsizing in rough conditions. Additionally, the dual hulls help reduce the wave impact, making catamarans more comfortable in rough seas. However, it's important to note that extreme weather conditions can still pose challenges for any type of boat, including catamarans.

How to sail in a storm?

Secure all loose items in and around the cockpit. Reef main sail if possible. Lower the jib, or furl it tightly if possible. If a storm jib is aboard, hoist it. If single handed, rig a preventer to hold the boom in place if a sudden gust should cause an accidental jibe. Double up all sail sheets, halyards, and control lines. Reduce windage by dropping the mainsail traveler and vang. Keep an eye out for squalls. Wear your life jacket and a wet suit or dry suit if the weather is cold enough. Trim the helm to keep the bow into the waves. Try to maintain a consistent speed and course to avoid broaching. Monitor the boat, keeping it free of water and heeling as little as possible. Be prepared to take evasive action, such as dousing the sails, heaving to, or running off.

Can catamarans handle rough seas?

Yes, catamarans can handle rough seas. They are designed with a shallow draft and wide beam that make them more stable, allowing them to handle the waves better than a traditional monohull boat. Additionally, modern catamarans have been designed to be more resistant to adverse weather conditions, which helps them perform better in rough seas.

Are catamarans safe in heavy weather?

It depends on the type of catamaran, its size and design, but generally catamarans are considered to be very safe in heavy weather. They have a wide beam, low center of gravity and are relatively stable in rough seas. A good quality catamaran will have also good deck drainage and self-draining cockpits, adding to their safety in bad weather.

How well are catamarans in heavy waves?

Catamarans usually have good stability in heavy waves, as their wide, shallow hulls help to provide good lift and reduce rolling. However, the size and weight of a catamaran will determine how well it handles in heavier waves, with larger catamarans generally being more stable in larger waves. It is also important to note that catamarans may not perform as well as monohulls in heavy waves as they often have less grip in the water due to their shallow draft. Therefore, it is important to consider the size and weight of the catamaran when planning to take it out in heavier seas.

How to park a catamaran heavy weather?

Ensure that the sea state is suitable for anchoring and that the area is suitable for your catamaran. Set the anchor and let out chain or rope depending on the type of anchor you are using. Monitor the anchor and the mooring lines for any signs of distress. If possible, secure more anchors or mooring buoys to the sea floor away from the catamaran to increase the overall stability and security. Use fenders to protect your catamaran from the sea swell. Make sure that the crew is off deck and has safety lines in place if they are on deck. Aim to park the catamaran in a sheltered area and away from the prevailing winds. Check regularly to make sure the anchor stays in place and that the mooring lines and fenders remain secure.

Why catamaran rotate beam on wave?

Catamarans rotate their beam on waves in order to remain stable and reduce drag. When a catamaran is moving through the water, its hulls can act like wings, causing the boat to tip sideways. By rotating the beam, the catamaran can counter the sideways motion, allowing it to remain relatively level and cut through the water more effectively. Rotating the beam also helps to reduce drag, helping the catamaran to move faster and more efficiently.

Catamarans In Rough Seas? Facts and Figures From Sailors!

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I had my first “real” sailing experience 11 years ago on a monohull in the Bahamas, before that I worked at a Ferrari workshop. Coming from a “dry-land-racing” world made me wonder why some would argue that cats are unsafe in rough seas. They should be more stable since they have a wider base, just as in the racing world, right? A few years later I still hear this old statement that catamarans arent safe for rough weather, so today ill try to add some info on the topic.

Catamarans are safe in rough seas because their double-hull design and wide stance make them highly stable. They’re also easy to maneuver, have shallow drafts, and high speeds that help them outrun storms. Still, you need a skilled crew capable of controlling the vessel to ensure your safety.

In this article, we’ll explore several reasons why catamarans are safe in rough seas. We will also take a deeper look at what makes catamarans capable of handling rough sea conditions. Keep it here to discover valuable tips on how to sail your catamaran safely despite the weather.

Table of Contents

Catamarans Are Practically Unsinkable

A capsized monohull might right itself up, but guess what? A well-designed cruising catamaran is very hard to capsize and almost impossible to sink. This doesn’t mean that it’s okay to go looking for storms to conquer, though. So, what makes a catamaran so difficult to sink, even in the unlikely event that it flips over? Let’s find out. 

If you want to dive a little deeper into Catamaran capsize statistics I suggest my other article: Why catamarans capsize!

Catamarans Are Highly Stable

In rough seas, a catamaran will show its superior performance through its twin hulls. Rough seas are defined as waves that rise to heights between 2 to 6 feet (0.6 -1.8 meters). 

The hulls turn a catamaran into a floating platform that’s pretty sturdy. In addition, their wide stance and solid construction make the vessel extremely stable, allowing it to withstand the water’s constant pounding motion. The larger the boat, the more stable it gets. 

The result is a smooth ride with minimal to no rocking from wave action. As a result, you are less likely to suffer from motion sickness on board a catamaran. A stable platform means reefing and sail changes become much easier and safer, particularly during rough weather. You suffer less fatigue and are thus more alert. Furthermore, there is minimal risk of anyone suffering severe injuries or falling overboard.

Cats Are Easy To Maneuver 

Catamarans manufacturers employ various design and structural techniques to enhance maneuverability. Firstly, the bridgedeck positioning is above the water to create a high bridgedeck clearance , which contributes to a ride that is free from loud noises called bridgedeck slamming. Something that old school cats had problems with and would prematurely fatigue the crew.

Read this article to understand what makes a great blue water catamaran (a cat that’s design for rough seas)!

Secondly, catamarans are lightweight vessels, making it easier to steer and control them. Therefore, if you get caught up in rough weather, you are more likely to be able to handle the waves correctly and safely.

In addition to the double hulls, cats also have dual engines , making it easier to maneuver the vessel in and out of tight spots. This feature is particularly useful when you need to escape an oncoming storm and find shelter in a crowded marina. What’s more, if one engine fails as you try to outrun a storm, you can always rely on the second engine to get you to safety. 

As mentioned earlier, an alert crew is essential for vessel safety in all weather conditions. And since catamarans are easy to maneuver, crew fatigue becomes a lesser issue, allowing you to sail from rough seas to safety. 

It’s also easy to learn how to sail a catamaran , even as a new sailor. As a result, you will be more comfortable with your boat, promoting more straightforward navigation in rough waters. 

How long does it take to learn to sail a catamaran? Check this out!

And if you want to get started right away I suggest signing up for two free lessons with NauticEd

Catamarans Have Less Draft

Because catamarans rely on the buoyancy from their twin narrow hulls (instead of one wide hull on a monohull), they can handle a shallow draft without hampering either their stability or maneuverability. Cats also spread their weight equally between the twin hulls, which allows them to sit much higher on the water.

A shallow draft means a catamaran has more shelter options when bad weather is imminent . You can also anchor your boat much closer to the shore where it’s relatively safe.

You can actually park your cat on the beach, something that is referred to as “ beaching “.

They Are Incredibly Spacious

You might be wondering how ample space has anything to do with safety in rough seas. Let me explain. Catamaran layouts are well-thought-out, with spacious rooms being a major consideration. As a result, most areas, including the cockpit, main saloon, accommodation quarters, and galley, are exceptionally cozy. This enhances sailing comfort and also allows for 360-degree saloon views, which greatly improves visibility for the helmsman. 

Another benefit is that there’s ample storage space, and all the sailing gear and equipment have a home. So, your gear is well-organized and stowed away carefully without crowding every available space. In rough seas, it helps the crew and anyone else on board avoid potential injuries from flying gear. 

A large storage capacity also means larger fuel supplies. This is important, especially during rough weather as the engines work harder to motor through the strong currents hence they require more fuel. 

Catamarans Do Not Heel

As mentioned earlier, ocean waves don’t affect catamarans as much as monohulls because, unlike monohulls, these boats don’t heel or roll (or at least not as much). This is why it’s easy to take a stroll either on the catamaran deck while under sail. The lack of heeling also makes it easier to handle the boat. 

Still, due to the wide bridge deck fastened between two hulls, heavier seas could generate slapping or pounding sounds while underway (see bridgedeck clearance).

Check this article out to understand bridgedeck clearance!

Catamarans Have High Speeds

The best way to keep your vessel safe is to avoid bad weather . But this is not always possible as you could still get caught up in a storm – despite the availability of weather reports. Fortunately, because catamarans are light, they deliver impressive speeds that you can count on at such times.

Fast speeds mean you can escape rough seas by outrunning storms and bad weather.

Cruising cats attain an average speed of 9 knots (10.5mph) while sport cruising cats can reach upwards of 30 knots ( 35mph). Also, performance cruising catamarans boast narrow waterline beams , generous sail plans, and centerboards that make them sail way faster than average cats.

Which Is Safer in a Storm; Catamaran or Monohull?

If comparing similar-sized vessels, a catamaran is much safer in rough seas and storms than a monohull.

This is due to several reasons:

• Catamarans have a larger platform: Because of its large and wide base, a catamaran is more stable and can withstand pounding waves much better than a monohull.
• Catamarans are faster. You are more likely to outrun rough weather in a cat than a monohull since its design enables it to sail much faster. Besides, the higher speed allows you to cover extensive distances in minimal time. This enables you to navigate through heavy sea conditions waters much more quickly or evade them altogether.
• Catamarans are easier to maneuver . Double engines make it easier to maneuver a catamaran in and out of tight spots, such as when getting into a marina or steering across small inland waterways. Monohulls, on the other hand, have only one engine, which could lead to trouble in case of engine failure during a storm.
• Catamarans have less draft. As mentioned earlier, a catamaran will sit much higher on the water than a monohull hence it can sail with ease on shallow waters. During a storm, it has more shelter opportunities and can pull anchor closer to the beach and away from the rough seas.
• Catamarans are not likely to sink. While a capsized monohull would right itself owing to its lead keel, a catamaran wouldn’t. Nonetheless, because of the positive buoyancy, a capsized cat would not sink, which isn’t the case for a monohull. The crew in a capsized catamaran can therefore wait for help onboard the floating vessel.

Are Catamarans Safe for Ocean Crossing?

Catamarans are sea-worthy vessels capable of making long sea passages. Larger catamarans are exceptionally safe for ocean crossing since they have lots of buoyancy and great roll inertia. They can sail through fairly uncomfortable conditions and handle strong winds without taking much of a beating. 

Furthermore, the boats are not likely to capsize even when breaking waves hit them as these merely cause them to surf sideways. 

Lastly, a cat’s ample storage capacity also means that it can carry enough fuel, water, and food for the passage . Hence, you need not worry about running out of your supplies in the middle of the ocean.

Do All Catamarans Perform the Same Way in Rough Seas?

Depending on catamaran design, performance will vary, a small boat (below 40ft) will be slower and react more to waves, a larger catamaran (+45ft) will move faster and be less impacted by heavy seas and strong winds.

In general, a vessel’s seaworthiness boils down to the construction quality, seamanship level, and boat design. 

Nonetheless, high-performance cruising cats can sail windward faster than the best keelboats. Featuring efficient daggerboards, deep rudders, plus less displacement and windage, they deliver a good performance windward in all kinds of weather. 

And since these catamarans are light in weight and contain ample sail plans, you need to pay special attention to your sail choice to maintain safety in all weather conditions.

But not all catamarans behave like high-performance cruising catamarans. Therefore, you need to have a deep understanding of how your boat operates before you set off into the open sea. This is only accomplished through spending time on the water.

Tips on How To Sail Safely in Rough Seas

There are fundamental safety measures as well as storm tactics. These are essential when sailing in any weather, but more so if you get caught up in rough seas. 

• Undergo training. Get sufficient training on basic sailing and what to do in the event of an incident at sea. Basic safety drills are also important, and all crew should know the specific location of all life-saving equipment.
• Find out details about the expected weather. Make sure you are able to get updates while under sail, either through satellite or mobile network.
• Have the right protective equipment. Always have protective gear on board, including life jackets and vests, close at hand. Set up the boat with the appropriate safety lines and attach yourself to the same. Crew members should carry a knife, strobe, and whistle as well.
• Avoid putting your catamaran on the direct path of breaking waves (beam reach). Instead, opt for a course that places both the wind and high waves either ahead or behind the beam. Minimize the chances of a wave crashing across the deck by tacking in relatively smooth water.
• Park your catamaran. If the storm gets too intense, consider parking ( heaving-to ) your cat. This will give the boat some break from the windward pounding.

The specific storm strategies you need to use will crucially depend on the condition of the sea. 

I would recommend you read the book Multihull seamanship ( amazon link ), the graphics are lame but the book is very informational, it walks you through procedures such as heave-to and what to do in case of emergency.

For additional tips on how to maintain the safety of your catamaran in rough seas, watch the video below:

Frequently Asked Questions

Should i run my catamaran straight downwind or angle it away from the waves.

It’s better to run downwind but at a slight angle since this will help increase the effective catamaran length by offering its diagonal distance to the following seas. The slight angle allows the bows to bury less, keeps the hull stable, reduces the risk of pitchpoling, and also makes it much easier to follow the sea.

How Much Sail Should I Use in Rough Seas?

When facing rough conditions it’s best to go with a minimal sail area (such as a storm jib). Minimal sail helps to calm the vessel, which makes autopiloting relatively easier. This means that you might not need to handle the helm, leaving the autopilot to do its work. 

Does a Catamaran’s Length Affect Its Ability To Survive Rough Seas?

Yes, it does. A catamaran with a long waterline handles high winds and towering waves better than a small cat. The easier motion facilitates crew maneuvers, while the high boat weight increases resistance to tossing and rolling caused by the wind and waves. In addition, the higher speed helps in running from the storm.

What´s the perfect size cat for ocean sailing?

What Can Cause a Catamaran to Capsize?

A huge wave to the catamaran’s beam or surfing down a wave and burying the bows in the next wave, making it frontflip or pitchpole. To better understand catamaran capsize I suggest you read my scientific approach to understanding capsizing here .

Final Thoughts

Sailing in rough seas is a true test of seamanship. I used to be afraid of the seas, now it has become my friend. Maybe it will be the same for you! Take care!

Owner of CatamaranFreedom.com. A minimalist that has lived in a caravan in Sweden, 35ft Monohull in the Bahamas, and right now in his self-built Van. He just started the next adventure, to circumnavigate the world on a Catamaran!

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Sailing Your Sailboat In A Storm: The Ultimate Guide

No one in their right mind chooses to direct their sailboat into a storm, and you shouldn’t either!

There’s a reason that so many songs about sailing and sailing quotes are based around storms at sea – they’re dramatic and terrifying and awe-inspiring. So inspiring that people feel the need to write about them.

In our 4 years of full-time sailing, we have only been caught out a few times. It’s never fun when you are but each time it happens you build trust in yourself and how your sailboat handles storm conditions.

The good news is that you can prepare yourself and your sailboat for storms without having to head out into one. There are several steps you can go through to ensure that if and when the time comes, you’re ready.

Sailing in stormy conditions can be a daunting experience for even the most experienced sailors. However, with the right knowledge, preparation, and mindset, you can navigate through the raging tempest and emerge safely on the other side.

In this ultimate guide, we will equip you with the essential skills and advice to sail your sailboat confidently in stormy weather.

Whether you’re an experienced sailor looking to refine your storm tactics or a beginner eager to explore the world of sailing, this guide will provide you with the tools to face the fury of nature head-on.

As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. We also earn from other affiliate programs. This means we may receive a small commission on products purchased through our links at no extra cost to you.

Table of Contents

Pre-storm sailing checks, storm sails, your sailboat in big waves.

• Post Storm Assessment

Conclusion: Your Sailboat In A Storm

The key to sailing in a storm is being prepared. We knew this, and yet the first time we got caught in big weather we weren’t prepared at all, and we felt really stupid for it.

Don’t be us!

You should be prepared for bad weather every single time you leave the safety of the harbour. You never know when the weather will change on you and you should always know exactly what you’ll do when that happens.

Here are a few things you can do while the weather is calm to help you prepare for the worst case scenario.

The Science of Storms

Understanding the dynamics of storms, including their formation, movement, and intensification, will enable you to make informed decisions before you even leave the anchorage.

You don’t need to become a weather expert, but you should learn how to read the weather using various sailing forecasts, and be aware of all the different tools available to you.

Another key skill is knowing weather patterns in the specific area you’re sailing in. Ask local fishermen and sailors how to spot bad weather and ‘read the skies’ as well as the forecasts.

In Greece, for example, you can predict the onset of the Meltemi winds by watching for dew on the deck. You can also learn a lot from watching the fishing boats. If they suddenly flock to port it’s a sure sign there will be bad weather on the way!

Preparing Your Sailboat

Properly equipping your sailboat before setting sail is crucial for handling a storm.

We always do pre-sail checks before setting off on a passage, but after days of sailing in calm weather, it’s easy to get complacent. Especially when there’s a favourable forecast.

This was our biggest mistake in one of the big storms we got stuck in. We usually stow our paddleboards, but we were forecast great weather and decided to tie them down on deck instead. We lost one over the side after a huge wave ripped it out of the lines and washed it overboard. Luckily it wasn’t anything more important.

You need to check for things like working bilge pumps, check your marine batteries and that you have a healthy running engine, do regular rigging inspections, check your sailboat mast , and check the quality of your lines and sails. These sorts of things should all be part of your going-to-sea checklist and are easy to keep on top of because they’re so vital.

The things that are easier to forget, but just as important, are things like ensuring hatches and portholes are properly closed and fastened, cupboards are all latched, and everything is stowed away safely.

I read a really interesting account of a couple who got caught in a severe storm. When a wave hit their top-loading fridge flew open spilling the contents everywhere. Eggs all over the floor made it impossible to move around below deck safely, and serious injuries occurred.

Think of everything, every time! And make it part of your daily routine.

Safety Equipment

Alongside your regular boat checks should be regular safety equipment checks.

To begin with, you should make sure you have all the safety equipment onboard before heading out to sea. This includes things like lifejackets , tethers, jackstays, liferafts, EPIRBS, grab bags, flares, etc.

You should make sure you inspect safety equipment regularly. Keep on top of things like recharging lifejackets and getting liferafts inspected regularly. Make sure your life sling is free to run. Make sure you have a sailing knife somewhere handy.

You should also know how to use your safety equipment and regularly practice your man overboard drills.

S eamanship Techniques

Once you find yourself sailing through a storm, it’s vital to know how to handle your sailboat effectively. This requires knowing your boat and how it handles best and will take some practice.

You can practice in calm weather, you don’t need to be in the middle of a storm to figure out certain techniques (and you shouldn’t be!) Make storm tactic practice a regular part of your sailing routine, and make sure the crew is aware of what you’ll do if heavy weather creeps up on you.

We’ll take a more in-depth look at different storm tactics below!

Crew Safety and Communication

In a storm, the safety of you and your crew is paramount. Before you head out to sea you should always brief your crew so they know all the major systems onboard. Imagine you got knocked unconscious – what would they need to know to get you and the boat to safety?

They should all have appropriate safety equipment and know your rules on using it. It’s important they trust and respect you as the skipper, because if things get tough out there you’ll want them to follow your orders.

You need to make sure they are comfortable with the way you run your ship. It’s easy to bark orders that are difficult to understand when you’re under pressure, so it’s up to you as captain to practice good communication skills onboard.

Mental Preparedness

Sailing in stormy conditions can be mentally and physically demanding. Often the sailboat is fine in a storm, but the people onboard fall apart long before the boat will.

Storms bring rough seas, and rough seas bring seasickness, anxiety, fear, and panic. You need to know what you’ll do if one or more of your crew becomes able to play their role.

When we got caught in big seas on a passage from Croatia to Greece Adam was flat on his back with seasickness for most of the journey. Luckily I knew the boat well enough to single-hand for large chunks of time, and he knew how to handle his seasickness well enough that he could take short watches while I slept.

Being prepared for this mentally by knowing the boat and our own capabilities played a huge role in the fact we managed to get the boat to safety.

Storm Tactics

Make sure you carefully think through your storm tactics and share them with your crew before you head out to sea. Here are a few storm tactics that might be worth practicing on calmer sails, so you know exactly what to do when bad weather hits.

This seems like a daft one to put first, but hypothermia will kill you much quicker than a storm. Luckily when we got really caught out it was summer and the temperatures were high, but even so we very quickly realised how stupid we were for heading out without decent sailing foulies.

The night was a very cold, very wet one. We survived it, but we vowed we would have all the proper kit before ever heading out to sea again.

As a minimum, make sure you have easily accessible layers (you do not want to be rummaging around below in a bad sea state), a decent sailing jacket and waterproof trousers, non-skid shoes, or even better, sailing boots .

For colder climates, it’s wise to consider a sailing drysuit .

Before the storm picks up make sure you’re kitted out. One rogue wave that sneaks overboard before you have your waterproof layers on could be a real killer.

One of the first steps to take in any sailboat when the weather picks up is to reef the sails . It’s unlikely that a storm will go from 0 knots to 60 (though obviously this can happen!) so as the wind builds, so should the reefs in your sails.

Reefing is simply making the sail area smaller. Different boats will have different points at which they need to reef, and your sail set up will be different too. Offshore sailors often have three reefing points in their sails so they can make them as small as possible.

Reefing the mainsail is hardest. You might need to go up to the mast to drop the sail a portion of the way down before trimming the sail again.

Foresails like jibs are often on furlers, and can be furled away as small as you like. You’ll just want to be careful the sails are balanced so you don’t have to work too hard on the helm.

Once your sailboat is fully reefed and still struggling in the wind speeds you’re getting, it’s time to consider putting up your storm sail.

Your storm sail is a vital piece of safety gear on board.

Storm sails are specialized sails designed to be used in extreme weather conditions, particularly during storms or heavy winds. They are smaller, stronger, and more heavily reinforced than regular sails, allowing a sailboat to maintain control and reduce the risk of damage or capsize in challenging weather.

Here are the main types of storm sails commonly used:

• Storm Jib: The storm jib is a small headsail that is hanked or attached to the forestay closer to the deck. It is typically made of heavy-duty fabric and has a high-cut clew (lower corner) to prevent interference with the deck or waves. The storm jib is used when the wind becomes too strong for the regular headsail, providing better control and stability.
• Storm Trisail: A storm trisail is a triangular sail that is hoisted on a separate mast track, usually on the aft side of the mast. It is set independently from the mainsail and provides an alternative to using the main in extreme conditions. The storm trisail is typically made of heavy-duty fabric and has a shorter luff (leading edge) than the regular mainsail.
• Storm Staysail: A storm staysail is a small sail set between the mast and the forestay. It is usually hanked or attached to a removable stay or a dedicated inner forestay. The storm staysail provides additional stability and control when conditions are too severe for other sails. It is typically made of heavy-duty fabric and has a high-cut clew to avoid interference.

Storm sails are designed to handle high winds and heavy seas, allowing a sailboat to maintain some degree of maneuverability and control.

They are usually constructed from stronger and more durable materials, such as heavy Dacron or woven synthetic fibers, and often feature reinforced stitching and webbing to withstand the increased loads and forces experienced in stormy conditions.

It’s important to note that deploying storm sails should be done in advance of extreme weather and in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. P

roper training and experience are crucial for effectively using storm sails, as they require careful sail handling and adjustments to maintain the boat’s balance and stability.

Heaving to in a sailboat is a valuable technique used to effectively manage challenging weather conditions, especially in a storm. It allows you to temporarily pause your boat’s forward progress, stabilize it, and create a safe and controlled environment.

It’s basically putting the brakes on your sailboat.

Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to heave to in a sailboat, but bear in mind that every sailboat is slightly different so you will need to play around a bit with your individual boat in calm weather to work out what works best for your boat and crew.

• Assess the conditions: Determine if heaving to is the appropriate strategy for the current situation. Heaving to is most effective in moderate to heavy winds and moderate seas. If conditions are extreme or dangerous, it may be safer to consider alternative tactics or seek shelter.
• Prepare the boat: Before executing the maneuver, prepare your sailboat by reefing the sails. Reduce the sail area to a level that provides sufficient control while minimizing the boat’s forward motion. Typically, this involves reefing the mainsail by lowering it partially or completely and adjusting the headsail accordingly.
• Decide on the tack: Choose the tack to heave to based on factors such as wind direction, sea state, and the boat’s handling characteristics. The tack selection can vary depending on the boat’s design and personal preference. In general, choose the tack that allows the boat to face into the wind with the mainsail backed.
• Head up into the wind: Turn the boat into the wind by steering toward the chosen tack. This maneuver will cause the boat’s forward momentum to decrease as it approaches a position directly facing into the wind.
• Backwind the headsail: Once the boat is pointing into the wind, backwind the headsail to help balance the forces acting on the boat. To do this, ease the headsail sheet, allowing it to fill on the opposite side of the boat from its normal position. This action will counteract the forward drive and assist in keeping the boat stationary or with minimal drift.
• Adjust the rudder: Set the rudder position to maintain balance and control. Depending on the boat’s design and behavior, you may need to experiment with the rudder angle to achieve the desired heaving to effect. In some cases, you may need to lock the helm in position or use a tiller-tamer device to maintain the rudder angle.
• Fine-tune and monitor: Once in the hove-to position, make any necessary adjustments to the sails, rudder, and other controls to achieve a stable and comfortable balance. Monitor the boat’s behavior, making sure it only drifts very slowly.

The boat won’t actually stop. It will typically lie about 60 degrees off the wind, sailing at around 1 knot, and sliding to leeward.

The motion will be much less than under sail, and dramatically more stable and pleasant than dropping all sails and lying ahull. You will also be using up less sea room than if you run before the storm at great speed.

Heaving to provides a stable platform in which you can wait out a storm, take a break, or perform necessary tasks while minimizing the boat’s motion and maintaining control.

It’s important to note that the specific technique may vary depending on your sailboat’s design and the prevailing conditions, so always consult your sailboat’s manual or seek guidance from experienced sailors for your particular boat type.

Drogue Or Sea Anchor

A drogue or sea anchor is a device used in boating and sailing to provide stability and control in heavy weather or when facing strong currents, winds or waves. Its primary purpose is to reduce a boat’s drift and help maintain a more stable position relative to wind and waves.

Here are the key points and benefits of using a drogue or sea anchor:

• Reducing drift: In stormy conditions, strong winds and currents can cause a boat to drift uncontrollably, potentially leading to loss of steering and stability. By deploying a drogue or sea anchor, the device creates drag in the water, effectively slowing down the boat’s drift and providing a steadier position.
• Enhancing stability: When a drogue or sea anchor is deployed from the stern of a boat, it helps to stabilize the vessel by reducing yawing (side-to-side motion) and rolling caused by wind and waves. This stability can be crucial for crew safety, preventing excessive motion and reducing the risk of capsizing or broaching.
• Improving safety: In extreme conditions, using a drogue or sea anchor can significantly improve overall safety on board. It reduces the risk of broaching (where the boat is turned broadside to the waves) and pitch-poling (when the boat’s bow is driven under a breaking wave), both of which can lead to dangerous situations. The device helps to create a controlled environment, minimizing the chances of damage, injuries, or loss of control.

We have never needed to use our drogue, but we have been close even in the Mediterranean, so it’s good to be prepared.

If you don’t have one but you find yourself in storm conditions where you need one, then doing something like hanging lines from the stern of the boat can actually make quite a big difference,

Sailing in big waves is not for the faint of heart, but if you trust your boat and your captain it can be an exciting experience!

One of the hardest things about sailing in big waves is steering. Your most experienced helmsman should be on the helm when the weather gets rough. Reading the waves is vital.

One of the key things to remember is that you must not sail on a reach across tall, breaking waves. If they hit you at the right angle and at the right time there is every possibility they could roll the boat. It’s a good idea to be familiar with capsize ratio and what this could mean for you.

If you have to sail upwind (we would do everything possible to avoid this!) then aim towards the parts of the wave that aren’t breaking. There is huge force in breaking waves and you want to avoid them if you can. Or you might lose your paddleboard!

Tack in smooth water if possible, and try to keep the speed up as you’re going over the waves so you don’t lose steerage.

The best option is to sail on a broad reach. Even though we knew this we still attempted to sail upwind to reach our destination and it simply wasn’t possible in our older, heavy displacement boat. Instead, we turned downwind and ran all the way to Italy. It wasn’t where we needed to go (far from it) but as soon as we turned downwind the ride got a whole lot more comfortable and manageable.

When running downwind you will just need to be careful you don’t broach and turn the boat beam on to a wave. This might mean you need to deploy a drogue to slow the boat down.

Post-Storm Assessment

After the storm has passed, it’s essential to assess any damage and evaluate your performance. Someone we know sailed through the night in a storm and when he reached port he carried out a rigging inspection (knowing how much strain had been put on it).

He’s lucky the mast didn’t come down while he was up there, as there were some pretty serious points of failure just about to give. If he’d gone out sailing without checking it out first he could have been in big trouble!

Along with checking the boat for any damage it’s a great idea to do a storm debrief with your crew. Think through the things you managed really well and the things you would have done differently (there’s always something!)

Every scenario is so different, so it’s great to build up a mental picture of things that worked in certain situations and things that didn’t. Next time you get caught in bad weather you’ll be even better prepared.

In conclusion, sailing in a storm is undoubtedly one of the most challenging and intense experiences a sailor can face. It will test your skills, courage, and resilience to the core.

Yet, it is also during these tempestuous moments that the true spirit of sailing shines through. The stormy seas teach us invaluable lessons about ourselves and our abilities as sailors. It’s where I have really built confidence in my sailboat and my own strengths.

While the prospect of sailing in a storm may seem daunting, it is important to remember that with proper preparation, knowledge, and seamanship, it is possible to navigate through even the fiercest of storms. You’ll probably give up long before your sailboat will!

Understanding weather patterns, having a well-maintained vessel, and equipping oneself with the necessary safety gear are crucial steps to minimize risks.

During a storm, it is essential to remain calm and focused. Keep a clear mind, assess the situation, and make informed decisions. Trust your instincts and rely on your training and experience. Remember that storms are temporary, and your skill as a sailor will guide you towards safer waters.

Sailing in a storm also fosters a profound connection with nature. It reminds us of the immense power and unpredictability of the sea. As the winds howl and the waves crash, there is an undeniable sense of awe and respect for the forces at play.

While I wasn’t holding on for dear life, I did have time to stare in awe at the power of the ocean and it was quite an incredible feeling to be in the middle of it all. It’s the main reason people think of sailing as dangerous , and I could see why in that moment!

Lastly, sailing in a storm builds character. It teaches us perseverance, adaptability, and problem-solving skills. It cultivates a sense of resilience and fortitude that extends far beyond the realm of sailing.

In the end, while sailing in a storm may not be for the faint of heart, it is an experience that pushes us to our limits and reveals the true strength within us. But please don’t head out into one on purpose – one will find you soon enough!

It is in the face of adversity that we grow as sailors and as individuals. So, if you ever find yourself caught in a storm at sea, embrace the challenge, trust your skills, and let the storm propel you towards a greater understanding of yourself and the remarkable world of sailing.

If you’re looking for something a little more uplifting to read after this article then check out the best ocean captions for Instagram , which are a lot more light hearted and fun that talking about storms!

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Catamaran vs. Monohull: We Changed, Should You?

There are two schools of thought when it comes to monohull versus catamaran . We have done extensive cruising and lived aboard two monohulls and four catamarans over the past 25+ years . We experienced the good and the bad for both single hull and multihulls first hand. Quite honestly, the pluses for catamarans far outweigh the minuses. There are multiple benefits of catamarans. They are faster, more stable and spacious, and have shallower drafts allowing safer anchorage closer to shore. Being on a stable platform with no heeling cuts down on crew fatigue and seasickness leaving the crew more alert and in control of the vessel. Even novice sailors feel more confident on catamarans.

When we built our monohull Royal Salute in the early 90s, catamarans were not established and were looked upon with extreme suspicion by most cruisers, including ourselves. “Safety and the capsize” issue were always the first things to come up against sailing catamarans. It is a fact that monohulls can get rolled in heavy seas but will right themselves because of the heavy lead keel, and while crew and vessel will be battered, the roll is survivable.

However a catamaran once capsized, will remain upside down (jokingly referring to this state of the catamaran as “reaching its most stable position when upside down”). The inability of a catamaran to self-right was and still is a major bone of contention. However, what is not often discussed is that a monohull has about a 5,000 pound keel of lead that is constantly trying to drag the boat to the bottom of the ocean versus a catamaran that has no ballast and is in most cases with modern catamarans, unsinkable.

So the options are to either sail the world on a boat that, if it springs a leak, will sink like a stone or a vessel that cannot self-right in the event of a capsize but will not sink no matter what. So from a practical point of view, here are our observations over the last 25+ years of living aboard, on the advantages and disadvantages of a catamaran.

ADVANTAGES OF A CATAMARAN

1. speed equals safety.

The speed of a catamaran makes it possible to outrun bad weather. While catamarans do not point as high into the wind as a monohull (or if it does, it makes more leeway or slides sideways), it is about 20% faster than a monohull. This means that even if you sail upwind at a slightly wider angle to the wind than a monohull and have to cover more distance, you will still arrive at your destination long before a monohull.

A modern performance catamaran with daggerboards and good quality sails will point as high as a similar sized monohull. It will point the same as a comparable monohull and sail much faster and therefore arrive at an upwind position much sooner than a the monohull. It is important to note that most of the production catamarans on the market are under-powered and are equipped with standard smaller sails. In lighter breezes many of these designs perform poorly unless fitted with bigger headsails, a Code Zero and a square-top mainsail.

While we believe that more comfortable and safer in rough weather , we have to concede that when the weather gets really bad (60 knots of wind or more) we would personally prefer to be on a monohull from the standpoint of surviving. I would say that a monohull is preferable for serious offshore single-handed sailing because you can more easily hove-to in a monohull. We have been in some extreme weather on a number of catamarans and never really felt that we were in danger, although it takes some nifty seamanship.

A monohull could capsize in extreme weather or even roll in a storm, but they generally come back upright. A catamaran on the other hand, will not right itself. But the cat will generally stay afloat, offering a good place to survive while you wait out the storm or until help comes along. Well-designed modern catamarans are very hard to capsize though.

Having said all that, most catamarans can do 200 to 250 miles a day and with modern technology allowing one to pull down weather at will, there is no good reason why you should get caught in extreme weather. A faster boat is a safer boat as it will in many cases be able to outrun bad weather. With good weather routing information a catamaran can avoid most serious weather and, at worst, place itself in the most favorable position to avoid the brunt of a storm.

2. A Catamaran is a Stable, Safe Platform Underway

Catamarans have no ballast in the keels like monohulls do and therefor it relies on beam and buoyancy for stability. Typically cruising catamarans will have a beam to length ratio of roughly 50%, although many designs nowadays exceed the 50% rule of thumb. So, a 45-ft long catamaran will be about 22-ft wide, providing a very stable platform when sailing. Unlike catamarans, monohulls cannot overcome the rolling and pitching with their narrow beam and the lead ballast for stability.

This rolling and pitching makes the deck on a monohull very unsafe whereas on walking around on the deck of a catamaran while underway is far easier since the boat is much more stable, and it doesn’t heel. This makes sail changes and reefing much easier and a lot safer for the crew. Without the rolling and pitching motion, the danger of falling overboard on a catamaran is considerably less than on a monohull.

3. Crew Fatigue Reduces on a Catamaran

Because a catamaran does not heel over like a monohull, it offers far more comfort underway because the motion is mostly fore and aft pitching and very little beam-to-beam rolling. On all points of sail, a catamaran tracks upright and significantly reduces crew fatigue and seasickness. Seasickness is usually caused by things like anxiety, fatigue, hunger and cold, which all add to a sense of disorientation. This leads the crew to making bad decisions and seamanship errors that could be fatal to the crew and vessel. The more stable platform of the catamaran will hugely keep those issues at bay, making the crew more alert and energized.

Every action and chore including cooking is much easier on a catamaran when underway. It is much more pleasant to be on the deck level looking out rather than being stuck “down below.” It is also much nicer to sleep on a boat that doesn’t heel. I remember nights at sea in our monohull when I was rolling around in my bunk unless I was properly wedge in a little corner. That is simply not the case on catamarans.

All these factors ensure that your crew will not expend unnecessary energy to simply try and stay upright, onboard and safe on a long passage. Your crew on a catamaran will be well rested and alert and will be able to function well if a stressful situation arises.

4. Comfort at Anchor

Catamarans provide a wide platform and therefore offer lovely spaces to relax at anchor without the rolling motion that monohulls have a tendency to do in a swell. During our 15 years of cruising on a monohull, we have often had to leave anchorages that we really were not finished exploring because of a rolly, uncomfortable anchorage. Big rollers or swells coming into an anchorage can make conditions in an anchorage very uncomfortable and unsafe.

We were anchored off Funchal on the island of Madeira in our monohull Royal Salute once, when we were forced to leave our anchorage. The rolling became so bad, we were rolling from gunnel to gunnel. The anchorage became untenable to remain anchored, forcing us to go out to sea in foul weather in the middle of the night. This is an extreme case but believe me, we have left many an idyllic anchorage because of a rolling swell into the anchorage. Catamarans, on the other hand, do not roll from like monohulls have a tendency to do and are far more comfortable at anchor.

5. Anchor Bridal Setup

Catamarans are fitted with a bridle, attached to both bows and down to the anchor chain, resulting in a very stable position at anchor. What we found with our monohull was that because the bow acts as a sail (because of the high freeboard), the boat tended to sail at anchor in high winds. It sailed in one direction until the chain snatched and tacked over and sailed in the other direction, feeling like it might dislodge the anchor altogether. The catamaran on the other hand sits at anchor a lot more stable and doesn’t sail around as much.

6. Ease of Boarding on a Catamaran

Thank goodness we were much younger and more agile during our monohull days. Royal Salute and most monohulls of her generation or older, have high free-boards, making it quite a feat to get onto the boat from the dinghy. It was one of the most challenging things to do because unlike the more modern monohulls that have a scoop at the back, we had to climb up on the side of the boat to get on and off. We, of course rigged steps, etc. but it was always a hassle compared to the ease of getting on and off a catamaran from a dingy or from the water.

7. Shallow Draft Equals Better Anchorages

Catamarans have significantly shallower drafts than monohulls, allowing for safer anchorages closer to shore. Most catamarans in the 40-ft to 50-ft range draw between 3-ft to 4.5-ft, so they can anchor in places that a monohulls can not even consider. In the shallow waters of the Bahamas for example, the catamarans have a big advantage. We often anchor our own catamaran just a few feet away from a beach. It definitely allows one to be able to explore areas where the water is shallow without the fear of running aground.

The shallow draft also allows for emergency repairs in shallow water and even doing the bottom job when the tide goes out as we have done in places like Mtwapa Creek in Kenya, East Africa. The catamaran easily rests on her keels on the sand without help making it a breeze to do the “annual haul out” even in remote locations.

8. Dinghy Davits & Dinghy Size

All catamarans have a set of davits that make it very easy to raise and lower the dingy. Our monohull and most cruising monohulls do not have an efficient or easily accessible set of davits. This makes raising and lowering the dingy an elaborate production. Catamarans on the other hand, has davits systems easily accessible and some even have platforms to rest the dinghy on.

The lack of beam and difficulty of lifting the dinghy also limits the size and type of dingy that one can reasonably carry on a monohull. As we all know, the dingy is your transport to and from shore and diving or fishing spots, so the bigger and faster the dingy, the better off you are. A catamaran can carry both a heavier and bigger dinghy which makes the popular center consul dinghy so much more possible.

9. Interior Space and Comfort on a Catamaran

We sailed 32,000 NM on our 45-ft monohull, happy as clams, not realizing that sailing does not have to be done lying on your ear 24/7 while on passage or sitting knee-to-knee in the cockpit at anchor with your two other guests at the dinner table! One can liken sitting in a monohull cockpit to sitting in an empty Jacuzzi, you are always nice and close to the other folks.

Now that we are on our fourth catamaran, there are a few things that have become more evident to us than the incredible space and comfort of a catamaran, not only at anchor but also underway. The cockpit and living space in general are huge compared to a monohull, making for very comfortable and spacious living conditions. It feels more like you are at home, rather than just on a camping trip.

Knowing that one spends at least 90% of one’s cruising life at anchor, it’s important to have good open living space, which most modern cats nowadays offer. A lot of cats have walk around beds, lots of storage, every modern appliance including washer/dryer, etc. However, one has to fight the urge to fill the space if you want to keep the cat light and fast.

Sailing with guests onboard for extended periods of time, in close quarters can become claustrophobic but on a catamaran people are spread out and separated. With guests sleeping in one hull and the owners in another, catamarans offer much more privacy and separation. Some cats even have privacy doors that will close off the entire hull and has a separate entrance onto the deck, which really separates you from the guests completely.

There is very little heeling on a catamaran, so there is no need for hand grips and safety harnesses inside the boat. There is nothing better (and safer) than being able to walk from the cockpit into the living room (saloon) on one level or one step down at most. In a monohull, when heeling at a severe angle, you would have to claw your way from the companionway steps down to the living area, while fighting to stay upright, significantly tapping your energy.

Unless you hit extreme conditions, everything stays put on a catamaran reducing the anxiety before doing passages of having to stow and secure everything. This very issue makes a lot of cruisers reluctant to weigh anchor and explore more often. It is just too much effort to pack away all your stuff once comfortable in an anchorage!

One thing you will notice is that the stove on catamarans are not gimbaled like it is on monohulls and this should tell the story in itself. The stability and comfort on a catamaran is far superior. Cooking is easy and safer. I often open a nice cold beer, put it down to do something and forget about it only to find a warm beer later in the same place I left it. This is not something that happens on a monohull.     

10. Redundancy on a Catamaran

Unlike monohulls, catamarans have a lot of critical redundancies. That of course means two hulls to clean and anti-foul, double the engine maintenance, etc. but having two of the critical equipment like engines for instance, outweighs the downside.

With two engines, if one fails you still have adequate propulsion to go anywhere. If by some fluke the second engine also fails, you have a full set of spares to fix at least one of them. Our friends once hit a sleeping whale off Tanzania, and when it dove, it hit the prop, bending it. They limped into the narrow channel on the one engine but at least they could make it to a safe harbor where we surveyed and repaired their damage.

We often only use one engine when motoring while making passage in order to conserve our fuel. The one engine is totally capable of moving the boat along at a good speed unless you are in heavy seas and you may need more power. Other than that we only use two engines to dock or maneuver the boat in close quarters.

Because there are two engines there are also two independent charging systems via the alternator on each engine. If one alternator goes out, there is still another complete charging system. There are two rudders and if one fails or falls off (as has happened to our friends on a monohull off Columbia, where they almost lost their boat) you have a second rudder that is completely capable of steering the boat by itself indefinitely. That holds true for several things on a catamaran!     

11. Maneuverability

The engines are spaced far apart on a catamaran and it makes maneuvering much easier and more precise than monohulls, unless the monohull has a bow thruster. We did not have a bow thruster (not many monohulls do) and had to rely on prop-walk and using prop wash on the rudder. A modern catamaran can do a 360 turn on her own axis. A monohull cannot do this and have a bigger turning circle. However, a monohull under sail is much more maneuverable and certainly will tack a lot faster than a catamaran. The ease in maneuverability under engine on a catamaran in close quarters specifically, is vastly superior comparatively.

12. Rigging

Because of the beam on a catamaran the spinnaker pole has become unnecessary equipment. Hallelujah, I say. That pole on our monohull was a pain the behind and I always hated having to use it. On a catamaran, one can fly an asymmetrical cruising chute or spinnaker, using the bows to tack the clew or run a guy through a block so it is very much simplified, easier and safer.We also sail wing-on-wing with twin headsails when we sail downwind. We use our furling jib and furling Code Zero. It is as easy as one, two, three.

DISADVANTAGES OF A CATAMARAN

1. bridgedeck slamming.

One advantage most monohulls do have when underway is that they don’t slam. Catamarans with a low bridgedeck clearance can experience significant slamming in confused seas sailing upwind. This slamming can be quite disconcerting when you first experience it as we did on a Shuttleworth 44 design, our first ever catamaran experience, 20+ years ago. At times, it felt as though the boat was falling apart. Of course the boat was fine but nevertheless, the stress on the crew from the constant noise and discomfort was significant.

Monohulls don’t have a bridgedeck which means no slamming and are therefore a bit more comfortable than l ow bridgedeck catamarans when beating into severe confused conditions or “washing machine” conditions as we call it. Modern catamarans mostly have better bridgedeck clearance and the slamming is significantly less. However, not all cats have a good clear tunnel under the bridgedeck. Some manufacturers build beds into the bridge deck in order to make more space in the chest of the catamaran where the slamming occurs. These protuberances into the bridgedeck tunnel will likely increase slamming. So be mindful of that when selecting a catamaran. We currently own a Bali 5.4 and the bridgedeck clearance on this boat is more than adequate and the tunnel is clear. We therefor experience very little slamming compared to our Prout 45 that we previously owned (picture of sister ship below) with a much lower bridgedeck.

We Explain Bridgedeck Clearance

In the pictures below, the Bali 5.4 has very good clearance from the water to the bridgedeck and has a nice clean tunnel versus the very low bridgedeck of the Sunreef 50. 

2. Sailing Downwind

Monohull spreaders are set at 90 degrees to the mast whereas a catamaran has to have backswept spreaders. The reason is that, on a monohull, there is a backstay and using this, plus the intermediates you can get a nice pre-bend in the mast (the pre-bend is to flatten out the main sail and allow for better performance).

On a catamaran with no back stay, you need to use the back swept spreaders and the diamonds to pre-bend the mast. The reason I point this out is because on a catamaran, if you want to broad reach or run, the mainsail cannot be let out all the way because the backswept spreader tips could punch holes in the fabric.

On a monohull, the spreaders are at 90 degrees so you can let the main and the boom out much further which is, of course, much more effective. This is one of the reasons it is better to broad reach and tack downwind on a catamaran.

Whether a monohull or multihull, sailing dead downwind doesn’t usually make great VMG. Therefor a regular cruising cat, much like a monohull, needs a lot of sail area and has to sail deep downwind if it is to achieve a decent speed made good (VMG). This video demonstrates how we achieve this by sailing wing-on-wing downwind.

It is more difficult to find a dock either as a transient or a permanent slip for a catamaran in general because of the wide beam. But this is changing fast and will soon not be too much of an issue. In the USA dockage is charged by the length of the boat in feet, so there is no disadvantage there but, in some places, (the Mediterranean for example), dockage is charged at length times one and a half because of the additional beam.

Since the catamaran is stable at anchor, we mostly anchor out. We have more privacy, a better breeze and usually a stunning view.We have a nice dinghy with a good outboard engine and is big and comfortable enough to get to shore fast and together with the modern conveniences like the generator, watermaker and washer/dryer, docking becomes a non-issue.

It is definitely more difficult to find a travel lift with enough beam for a catamaran for a haulout, while, for a monohull, there are absolutely no problems anywhere. The wide beam of cats also greatly limits the number of shipyards that can haul them out. Most catamarans over 40-ft must be hauled out with a 50-ton travel lift. This not only increases the cost of the haulout, but greatly limits the choice of the shipyards for repairs and maintenance. With limited choice, prices are high for shipyard services.

Catamarans do tend to have a lot more windage than monohulls. This can be an issue especially when maneuvering in close quarters with a strong wind. But I have found that, provided the engines are powerful enough for the size of catamaran, that twin engines negate this problem. Also, many modern large catamarans now have a bow thruster fitted. It is super easy to dock.

The cost of getting into a catamaran is much higher than that of monohulls. That could put a serious dent in your cruising kitty or require you to put your dream on hold a little longer. Pre-owned monohulls on the other hand are very cheap to buy comparatively, because the supply presently far outweighs the demand.

Catamarans are in high demand and they typically hold their value much better and longer and the trend is now heavily in favor of the catamaran market. When prospective buyers contact us for catamarans under $250,000 the choices are very limited and catamarans under $100,000 is near impossible to buy. In this case, your best bet is to go with a monohull unless you go with much older boats like the Prouts or the less expensive Geminis.

Our Own Catamarans & Monohulls

FYI: Royal Salute , a Bruce Roberts 45 monohull, was the first boat we owned and sailed approx. 30,000NM on. Mythral, a Seafarer 30, was our “toy boat” while we were waiting for our catamaran to be built. Even though this classic little monohull sailed around the world, it didn’t have much in modern conveniences like running water. Siyaya was an Island Spirit 40 catamaran that we sailed from Cape Town to Florida on and then taught live-aboard sailing classes for several years. Zuri I was a Prout 45, a beautifully crafted catamaran but by today’s standards is considered old technology. Our Lagoon 450 SporTop ( Zuri II ) is a fantastic live-aboard catamaran. We lived and taught aboard her for three years but sold her last year and we currently own a Bali 5.4 ( Zuri III or Z3 as we call her now). Read about our various boats .

CONCLUSION: CATAMARAN vs MONOHULL

We were dyed in the wool monohull sailors for 15+ years. We loved the pretty lines of monohulls, the sailing ability and what we believed at the time to be much safer vessels. However, now that we have been avid catamaran enthusiasts, we simply can never go back to monohulls. Catamarans have come of age and with modern technology have overcome most objections that sailors of old had against them. They are well designed and built, are safe, and we simply love that they sail fast and upright. There is not a whole lot to dislike about a catamaran when you live aboard. We have weighed all the pros and cons of catamarans and found that the pros far exceed the cons. We made the change to a catamaran and do not regret it one bit!

We hope that this article will clear things up for all the prospective catamaran owners out there.

Contact us if you have any questions regarding catamarans, Fractional Yacht Ownership or our Charter Management Programs .

Estelle Cockcroft

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4 thoughts on “Catamaran vs. Monohull: We Changed, Should You?”

I read that the engineering on the catamarans were improved over the years. Whats the oldest year would you recommend designwise?

Scott, my apologies for the late reply. We’ve been traveling in Africa. Anyway, catamarans have come a long way and improvements in technology is happening at lightning speed. I reckon that even the older model catamarans are good. It depends on what your needs are. If you want something a little better performance wise, I would go for something no older than 15 years.

After buying a catamaran what is the difference in expense of a catamaran vs a monohull. Many articles state that not only the initial cost of a catamaran is more it the operating cost as well.

Hi Todd, it is more expensive. The annual dockage and haul out as well as maintenance will be more expensive. You obviously have two engines to maintain and various other pieces of equipment to service in both hulls. While there is more equipment there is also more redundancy and of course you have the comfort factor. So, depending on your situation, it’s probably worth it.

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Heavy Weather Sailing in a Multihull

Basic seaworthiness.

The seaworthiness of a vessel, in broad terms, is the ability of the vessel to provide safety, and comfort for her crew in all weather conditions. The concept of seaworthiness should not only be considered in storm survival conditions, because vessels can be lost in moderate conditions a well as in storms. The effects of fatigue in construction materials and rigging could result in failure in moderate winds, and crew fatigue due to extreme motion could result in errors of judgment, or exhaustion, long before a dangerous situation need otherwise have developed. Collision for instance can occur at any time, and accounts for the loss of a significant number of yachts, and in my opinion is a bigger danger than storm .

Novanet Elite in storm conditions.

The John Shuttleworth designed 80 ft. racing catamaran "Novanet Elite" in storm conditions off Plymouth at the start of the AZAB race on the 6th of June 1987. The curvature of the 27 ft whip aerial on the stern gives some indication of the wind strength. There are four slab reefs in the mainsail and a storm jib has been set on an inner forestay. Note the height of the clew of the jib - to keep the sail clear of waves breaking over the boat. Skipper Peter Phillips said boat speed was 15 to 20 knots at the time.

In this chapter I shall explain some of the many factors that affect the seaworthiness of multihulls. Including windward ability, stability, motion in waves, and pitching and rolling. I will describe the broad outlines of a number of distinct types of multihull that have emerged over the past 30 years, and go on to indicate how these different types of multihull can be handled in heavy weather, and then describe how a multihull can be made safe if the worst happens and the vessel capsises. The most informative technical work on seaworthiness in modern yachts to date is Seaworthiness the Forgotten Factor by C.A. Marchaj.1 Unfortunately the book concentrates almost exclusively on monohull design and very little is mentioned about multihulls. Since space is limited, I will not redefine the formulae and criteria for seaworthiness, which are explained clearly in the book, instead I will just go straight on to show how a multihull fits into the picture. On reading through Seaworthiness the Forgotten Factor, I could not help constantly thinking how few of the vices and problems, attributed to monohulls, were applicable to modern multihulls.

Ocean going multihulls have been designed and built for at least 2000 years. And it is now an accepted fact that the Pacific was colonised from the West (i.e. to windward) by early navigators in outrigger canoes. These vessels were different from the general types of multihull that are being developed today, in that they had a main hull for the living quarters and stores, and a stabilising outrigger (or ama) which was always to windward while sailing. The mast was stepped on the main hull, and the vessel was 'shunted' end for end during a tack. This requires that there is a rudder at each end of the vessel, the hulls are symmetrical, and the sails can be set from either end. Making long ocean voyages aboard these craft required great skill and experience, and a high degree of 'toughness', since for the most part the accommodation was on deck, exposed to the elements, and weight carrying capacity was relatively limited.

Modern yachtsmen in general require more creature comforts than the hardy navigators of the Pacific, and while some will accept spartan living as a necessary part of the adventure of going to sea, there are others to whom a fully equipped laundry, huge freezers, scuba equipment, speed boat, jaccuzzi, and dog kennel, are minimum requirements for simple living afloat. Therefore although the basic form of the multihull is derived from the polynesian vessels, we have had to develop a new form that can carry weight without loss of seaworthiness, and requires less skill to sail, since the modern sailor does not have a 'navigator' aboard who was born to the task with several generations of knowkedge behind him.

Weight carying capacity. payload, safety.

Thus over the past 30 years a number of distinct types of multihull have emerged all having different sailing qualities, and seaworthiness. There has been a steady improvement in the understanding of the factors required to make a multihull both safe and fast, resulting in boats that are extremely seaworthy, as will be demonstrated in the following pages.

The basic types of Multihull are as follows. Obviously these are the extremes, and many boats will fall between the categories. The groupings given here represent a chronological order in only a very general way. Boats having some of the characteristics of the most modern types can be found in multihulls whose designs date back over 1000 years. On the other hand boats of all types are still being designed and built. From a subjective point of view, the order given here follows my own muiltihull sailing and design experience closely. I first sailed across the Atlantic some 17 years ago in type 1, later I crossed again in a type 2, and a few years ago in a type 3. Recently most of my long distance ocean voyaging has been aboard a type 6 catamaran. So the order given is more applicable to my own rather than general criteria, even though most observers of the development of the modern multihull will agree with the broad outline of each type.

A keel in the sense used below is a foil for resisting leeway. The keel is not balasted as in a monohull, and may be fixed, or retractable either vertically (daggerboard) or by pivoting (centerboard). A few multihulls have been built with ballasted keels, but current practice is to make the boats wider to increase stability, and to keep weight low, to improve windward performance. Amas are the outer hulls of a trimaran, sometimes referred to as outriggers, or the smaller hull of a proa.

Type 1. Early trimaran. Relatively heavy. High Windage. Inefficient underwater and keel shape, often with either a fixed keel or no keel at all. Small sail area. Hard chine with high wetted surface. Poor pitching control. Medium buoyancy amas (around110% of the displacement of the boat). Amas usually both in the water at the same time. Narrow beam (length to beam ratio = 2). Construction sometimes doubtful often in sheet plywood. Low long term fatigue.

Type 2. Trimaran. Becoming lighter. Larger sail plans. Less accommodation. Low buoyancy amas (75 to 90%). Wide beam (L/B = 1.3). Considerably reduced windage. Improvement in structural design.

Type 3. Trimaran. Light weight (due to the use of composite materials). Large Sail areas. Wide beam (L/B < 1.5 to as low as 1.0 in smaller boats.). High buoyancy amas (up to 200% of displacement). Pitching very well controlled by use of different hull shapes on main hull and ama. Sailing attitude well controlled on all points of sail. Low windage. Dramatic improvement in structures due to use of Computer aided design, and better understanding of composite materials.

Type 4. Early catamaran. Relatively heavy. Narrow beam (L/B often over 2). Small sail area. Inefficient underwater shape with low aspect fixed keels or no keels at all. Cruising cats very heavy by today's standards. Bridgedeck saloon versions with large flat windows in coachroof causing high windage. Often prone to hobbyhorsing and pitching due to rocker and symmetry of hulls.

Type 5. Catamaran. Open bridgedeck designs. All accommodation in the hulls. Greatly reduced windage. Keel shapes improved. Retractable daggerboards. Large sterns and fine bows causing bow burying tendencies on a reach. Greatly improved windward performance. Pitching control still poor, some attempts to reduce pitching by using bulb bows. Wider than early designs. Larger sail plans.

Type 6. Catamaran. Open bridgedeck designs with large accommodation in hulls. Hobbyhorsing eliminated by hull shape. Windage greatly reduced by rounding and streamlining deck edges. Powerful efficient rigs. Sophisticated retractable daggerboards and rudders. Minimum wetted surface hulls. Excellent windward performance. Fast easy motion through sea. Very stable with wide beam (L/B < 1.5). Similar structural design improvements taking place as for trimarans.

Type 7. Catamaran. Basically as 6 above but with very streamlined bridgedeck cabin for large accommodation and low windage. Light weight maintained, with large weight carrying ability for fast cruising.

8. Other types. Proas (Atlantic, ama to leeward, and Pacific, ama to windward) and trimaran foilers. In general these are development types almost exclusively for racing, as far as modern multihulls are concerned, and they have special problems that require particular knowledge, experience and seamanship for handling in heavy weather. Due to lack of space these types will not be dealt with in any detail in this chapter.

Although I am concentrating primarily on cruising designs, many of the design concepts have been derived from successful racing designs. Indeed the racing designs which push the limits of performance to the edge, are an excellent test bed for cruising boats, particularly racers designed for the long offshore events like the OSTAR and the 2STAR, which are both predominantly to windward across the North Atlantic. In these races, ease of handling and motion, windward ability, structural integrity, and seaworthiness are of paramount importance.

It is interesting to note that this development, resulting in a dramatic increase in seaworthiness and speed, has taken place over virtually the same time period as the monohulls have been deteriorating in seaworthiness. The primary reason for this has to be the fact that the development of multihulls has taken place without the restriction of any rating rules, with the only criteria for successful design being to improve seakeeping qualities and overall performance - resulting in the development of extremely seaworthy cruising designs.

Boat Motion in a Seaway, and the effect on the ships crew.

1. Rolling. With the exception of type 2 above, multihulls are virtually immune to rolling. This means that the boat sits on the water like a raft - following the surface of the sea, giving great crew comfort while sailing, particulartly down wind. When lying ahull, cats and tris exhibit different characteristics. Firstly catamarans have a very high roll moment of inertia ( Ir ), because the weight of the boat is primarily concentrated at the hull centerlines. The buoyancy of the boat is also concentrated at the extremity of the hull centerline beam, giving massive roll damping. Open bridgedeck cruising cats benefit most from this effect, and low buoyancy ama trimarans (Type 2) least. In a tri the weight is concentrated closer to the center of gravity (CG), reducing Ir , and the amas take longer to pick up buoyancy as the boat heels, thereby reducing damping. In a low buoyancy ama tri this effect can lead to capsize in waves, (when lying ahull) as will be shown later, and different techniques of seamanship are required to ensure the safety of this type of multihull in a storm.

2.Pitching and hobbyhorsing. Many early multihulls were prone to hobbyhorsing, and pitching. This was caused by too much rocker on the hull profile, and fine V sections both fore and aft. U shaped sections forward help to reduce pitching, however too flat a forefoot will slam. As hull shapes improved tending towards more U shaped underbodies particularly aft, pitching still remained a problem, because the large width of the stern sections caused the sea to lift the sterns as the boat passed over the wave, driving the bow down. However we now know that pitching can be dramatically reduced by finer sections at the stern combined with the center of buoyancy being moved forward in the immersed hull, and aft in the lifting hull (ref 2 and 3). This effect can be achieved in both cats and tris, giving a very comfortable and easy motion upwind. At the same time windward performance is improved, because the apparent wind direction is more stable across the sails.

3 Yawing. Any tendency to yaw has been virtually eliminated in the modern multihull due to the shallow draft of the hull (because of the U shaped sections and the light weight), and by the use of retractable daggerboards. Once the keel is removed when sailing downwind, there is virtually no chance of broaching, as long as the forefoot does not dig in. This can be prevented by firstly reducing the forefoot, and by picking up buoyancy quickly in the forward sections of the boat above the waterline. Computer simulations of the hull in different bow down trims, and at varying waterline positions, are now an essential part of the design process to control sailing attitude properly, both on and off the wind. see Fig 1. (ref 4).

4. Surfing. A modern multihull will surf very easily, making for fast passage making in the open ocean. Sailing downwind in winds up to 40 knots can sometimes be quite comfortable and easy depending on the steepness of the seas. The apparent wind being reduced by the high boat speed. Once the wind speed becomes so strong, or the seas so steep, that surfing downwind is dangerous, and if the boat will not make progress to windward or lie ahull, (this could well be the case for types 1,2,and 4) It will be essential to deploy a sea anchor to control the boat speed. Much has been written on this subject, and certainly is an accepted way of surviving a severe storm in a multihull. From the designer's point of view it is essential to provide adequately strong attachment points on the bows and sterns.

One of the main problems when sailing at 20 knots or over in the open sea, (even if this is just caused by surfing on the odd occasion), is that the boat will overtake the wave train, which is usually moving at around 18 knots. When this happens there is a danger that the bows could bury into the back of the wave ahead. If the true windspeed is say 35 knots and the boat is sailing at 16 to 20 knots as she surfs down the wave fronts. The apparent wind speed will be between 35 - 16 = 19 and 35 - 20 = 15 knots. So the "feel on the boat will be that you are sailing in a force 4. The danger here is that you may think you can carry full sail, and indeed you can, until the boat buries the bow and slows right down. Suddenly the wind across the deck will increase to nearly 35 knots, and the boat will be massively overcanvassed. At this point a jib sheet can be released, which may be enough to save the boat from capsise, but a mainsail cannot be depowered in the same way when you are sailing downwind. Therefore it is very important to be familiar with the static stability of the boat, and when sailing downwind ensure that you never have more sail area up than if you were sailing with that true wind from abeam.

The bows can also be prevented from burying if there is adequate reserve buoyancy forward. This can be achieved by flaring the hull above the waterline, and by rounding the decks so that if the bow goes under, the build up of water pressure on the deck is reduced. The stern or transom should not be large, to prevent a following wave from lifting the aft end, thereby increasing the possibility of pitchpoling.

Particular attention has to be paid to rudder size and design to maintain good control at surfing speeds that may be in excess of 20 knots. Elliptical balanced spade rudders of airfoil section reduce helm loads and drag at high speeds. Rudder stocks have to be very strong to be able to steer consistently at such high speed. I used to favour using stainless steel or titanium, rather than carbon for rudder stocks, because at least the rudder will bend if overloaded (by grounding or hitting and object, instead of shearing off. However recently we have designed carbon rudders for some catamarans, because we have found that a bent rudder stock can jam in position, and cause more problems than if it had simply sheared off. It is important to design the rudders large enough so that the boat will steer with one rudder only. A couple of years ago I made a voyage from Corunna to the Canaries in a 42ft Cat with only one rudder, in wind speeds of 30 to 40 knots, without any problem.

The factor of safety for the rudder design should be at least1.5 with rudder at 90 degrees to the waterflow at 25 knots. This situation is quite possible if the boat starts to broach and slew down a wave, and the helm is turned to full lock (35 degrees). A quick sketch will show you that the rudder is then presented at 90 degrees to the water flow.

5. Swaying. Fig 2 shows the righing moment of a Catamaran and a Trimaran of similar displacement.

A modern light displacement multihull lying sideways to the seas with no sails up (i.e. lying ahull), and with the daggerboards up, will surf sideways very easily in a breaking crest. It will be demonstrated later that this is a very important feature in the seaworthiness of multihulls lying ahull in a storm. Multihulls with fixed keels and tris of type 2, have the possibility of tripping over their keels or amas when struck by a breaking crest. Narrow beam increases the danger of capsize in this situation. In a recent tank test programme we dragged a 65ft cat sideways with no keels, two shallow keels, and two deep keels. The increase in sideways resistance, at 3.4 knots was : no keels 100% Shallow keels 123% Deep keels 132% Although we did not test a daggerboard, I would estimate that a daggerboard on the downwind hull would be in the order of 145% to 150%. Fig 3 shows the effect of the tripping action of a board or low buoyancy outrigger that has become immersed. If sideways motion of the yacht needs to be stopped, for instance because of a danger to leeward, this can be done by either deploying a sea anchor abeam, or by putting down the upwind board. (this only applies to a cat) The upwind board can act as a brake without imparting rotational momentum to the boat. If the boat does not rotate - it will not capsize.

6. Heaving. This is a complex problem to define clearly for a multihull, because the two immersed hulls are at different places on the wave front at any given time. Nevertheless, they heave less than monohulls because the hulls are slimmer, allowing the yacht to cut through the water when sailing. Loss of apparent displacement at the wave crest and rotational momentum imparted to the boat by heaving on the upwind hull will assist in capsizing an overcanvassed multihull due to wind and wave action. Heaving assisted capsize has been experienced particularly in tris of type 2, and cats of type 4. This is of particular importance and will be dealt with more fully in the next section.

This is generally a very contentious and little understood subject when multihull seaworthiness is discussed, and is probably the biggest fear that inexperienced sailors have about this type of vessel. And while it is true that certain multihulls have capsized, it is clear from the above that there are many different types of multihull, and indeed there are different ways in which they can capsize. I will endeavour to show that with a real understanding of the factors that contribute to capsize vulnerability, it is clear that some multihulls are extremely difficult to capsize, and therefore are very safe in all conditions provided that the correct amount of sail is carried in relation to the wind and the sea state, and when sail can no longer be carried, correct storm techniques are adopted. (Bearing in mind that there may be a wave out there that will overwhelm any vessel).

Stability in wind. Static stability is a measure of the stability of the boat in flat water, and is given by the following formula. (ref 2 )

• d= displacement (lbs).
• CE = height of the center of effort above the center of lateral resistance (CLR) in feet. Use C of E to Waterline for quick calculation.
• SF = windspeed in MPH that the boat has to reduce sail.
• SA = sail area in square feet.
• B = beam between the centerlines of the outer hulls in feet.

Fig 4 shows the paramaters as they apply to a cat and a tri.

This formula gives designers a measure of stability as an indication of the power to carry sail. i.e. the ability of the boat to resist capsize by wind action alone. This formula accounts for gust loading, the actual static stability is 40% higher. See Technical Q&A's for more information on why we reduce the stability factor in waves. There are two factors that can reduce SF. Firstly if the boat has a high angle of heel at the point of maximum stability, (worst in trimarans of type 2, and minimal in all catamarans) the correct SF is given by replacing beam in 1 with beam overall x cos(angle of heel).

Typical values for SF can vary between 12 mph for a Formula 40 racing catamaran, to over 50 mph for cruising multihulls. Modern light cruiser racers would be in the range of 24 to 30 mph. So it is clear that in addition to the different types of multihull listed above the initial static stability can vary enormously.

Stability curve and stability in waves.

Righting moment is the distance from the center of buoyancy to the center of gravity x the apparent weight of the vessel. This is basically the vessel's inbuilt static resistance to heeling. The forces that heel the boat could come from the wind and/or the waves. Fig 2 shows the curve of righting moment versus angle of heel for a typical modern 35ft catamaran and trimaran racer cruiser to my design.

It is important to note that the maximum stability of the tri occurs at around 20 degrees angle of heel, while the cat has a max at about 6 degrees. If the buoyancy of the ama is reduced below 100 % of the weight of the boat (as in type 2 above), the maximum stability will be reduced not only in proportion to the reduction in buoyancy in the ama, but also by the effect of added apparent displacement from the downward pressure from the sails at high angles of heel.

At 20 degrees this would cause a loss of righting moment in the order of 20%. If the ama buoyancy was only 80% in the first place, the total righting moment would be only 60% of an equivalent trimaran of type 3. Fig 6 shows the same righting moment curve for the cat versus a typical modern cruiser/racer monohull. The energy required to be input into the yacht in order to roll it from 0 degrees to the point of capsize (90 degrees in the cat and 135 degrees in the Mono) is given by the area under the curve. From the graph it is clear that the energy required to roll the cat over is 50% higher than the monohull. Of course in either case the initial angle of heel will reduce the available reserve of stability, and in the trimarans this reduction in energy resistance to roll will be greater than a cat. The energy to roll a tri to 90 degrees is much greater than a cat provided it is of type 1 or 3.

However in all cases, in order to a capsise to occur, the energy from the wind and the waves (which is equal to the area under the righting moment curve) has to be transferred to the vessel in the form of rotational energy. In waves alone, if the energy of the wave impact is not changed into rolling energy the boat can not capsise.

The following table gives the dispalcement and dimensions of the cat, tri, and monohull shown in the graphs.

Firstly if we consider the action of the waves alone. Tank testing has shown (ref 1) that capsise due to the action of unbroken waves is impossible. Therefore when a vessel is lying ahull the impact of the breaking crest is the primary means of energy entering the system which may be transformed into roll energy. A multihull follows the slope of the wave face exactly like a raft as shown in fig. 7. However, because the buoyancy and the weight of the vessel is concentrated at the extremities of the beam (particularly in cats of type 6,) multihulls will be more stable against rolling than a simple raft.

Secondly, particularly in the case of the open bridgedeck cruising cat (type 6), the roll moment of inertia is very high because of the hull configuration. Also the inertia of the water entrained by the hulls is high. Therefore this type of cat has the least energy transferred from the the wave impact into rolling energy. On the other hand a trimaran with the board up will still have a small capsise lever and hence a low impact moment, but the roll moment of inertia (Ir ) is much lower than a cat, because the weight of the yacht is concentrated closer to the center of gravity. Therefore more roll energy will enter the trimaran lying ahull than the cat. (ref 17)

Most mopdern multihulls have low draft, and if the keels are retractd, or not too dep, virtually all the energy of the wave impact is absorbed by surfing sideways. This is exactly the same effect that saves the older type of monohull from capsising in waves, the only difference is that the monohull has to experience a knockdown before the keel is almost parallel to the surface of the water, thereby reducing the lever arm (r) and allowing the energy to be dissipated into sideways motion.

The multihull that fares worst in this situation is the trimaran with low buoyancy amas. When a wave hits the side of the boat, firstly it will roll quicker and much more than a cat, and if the ama immerses to the point where it digs in, thereby stopping sideways movement, all the energy will be transferred into rolling and a capsise is possible. Also having deep fixed keels or leaving the downwind board down will greatly increase the risk of capsise in waves for all types of multihull.

Of course the situation may arise when it may be necessary to limit the sideways drift of the boat, for instance if there is a danger to leeward. In a cat this can be achieved safely by lowering the windward daggerboard. All other types will have to use a sea anchor. Whether to deploy the sea anchor from the bow or the side of the vessel depends on the type of boat, and the conditions. Several people have written on the subject including the Cassanovas, and Dick Newick, who both have used and favour this method of controlling drift and rolling in a storm.

Wind and wave action.

When you combine the action of wind and waves, a catamaran is more vulnerable than a tri, because when a boat is sailing the heaving action of the wave on the windward hull imparts rolling momentum to the boat, reducing the energy reserve left under the righting moment graph in fig 2. If the boat has a low static stability, and is being sailed close to the limit, with the daggerboard down, it will be possible to capsise in waves in a wind speed that would be safe in flat water. Cats are more vulnerable than tris because in general the static stability of the cat is less than an equivalent tri. This is the main reason that tris are considered to be safer for short handed racing - they can be sailed harder in waves with a greater margin of safety. On the other hand this is a very good reason to make cats as wide as possible to increase the static stability and thereby increase the safe sail carrying power.

Windward ability

Another area of traditionally poor performance in multihulls is their windward ability. And indeed it is true that the older types of multihull (types 1 and 4) would tack through 100 degrees or more, and had very inferior pointing ability when compared to their monohull counterparts. Today however modern multihulls are designed paying careful attention to weight saving in the structure, aerodynamic drag of the hulls and superstructure, with efficient rigs and wide overall beam to give good sail carrying power. All these features combine together to give a windward performance better than any equivalent sized monohull. In a force 4 wind, a modern 60ft racing trimaran will sail upwind at 16 knots tacking through 75 degrees. While an open bridgedeck cruising cat like the Spectrum 42 will tack through 80 degrees, at around 10 knots.

The implications of this sort of performance is also an indication that modern multihulls will sail upwind in a gale long after the monohulls have had to heave to. Indeed this superior windward ability has been conclusively demonstrated in all the windward races of the North Atlantic and is a factor of major significance in the improved seaworthiness of modern designs. Windward ability is a very important measure of seaworthiness, and can prove vital if there is a danger to leeward in a gale.

Computer Aided Design.

We now have the ability to design a hull and decks for a complete multihull directly on a computer screen (ref 4). The computer allows us to rotate the hull and draw sections at any angle across the boat. We can therefore see the shapes that the wind is going to flow over in the exact direction that the wind strikes the boat. Remember that the wind never comes from dead ahead in a sailing boat. In fact the boat is really moving crabwise through the air, at best the wind crosses the boat at and angle of around 30 degrees from the bow. Fig 8 shows the perspective view on the computer screen of a bridgedeck cabin for a 43ft cat. It will be obvious that this is a very useful aid in achieving aerodynamically clean 3 dimensional shapes like this. And the next step will be to test the complete hull and bridgedeck in a wind tunnel.

Total potential loss of windward ability due to Drag.

Theoretical calculations of the aero, and hydrodynamic drag of various types of multihull shows the following effect of keel efficiency, weight, sail are, and aerodynamic drag.

25% decrease in keel efficiency = total loss in tacking angle of 5 degrees.

Double hull weight = total loss in tacking angle of 6 degrees.

If we include the lift to drag factors of the sails.... 16% decrease in sail area = total loss in tacking angle of 4 degrees. 35% increase in aerodynamic parasitic drag = total loss in tacking angle of 6 degrees.

The total of all these factors is a loss in tacking angle of 21 degrees.

If we compare an open bridgedeck cat of type 6 to an older type of multihull, this is exactly the sort of difference in pointing ability we observe.

When compared to a design of type 1 or 4 the modern multihull is much more streamlined, about half the weight, has an efficient keel, wide width for high stability and sail carrying power, and larger rig. Where the older designs tacked through 100 degrees, a modern design will be sailing considerably faster and tacking through 80 degrees or less.

In order to achieve large volume in a cruising cat without increasing windage, the hull can be flared above the waterline. This flare can also be used to increase the reserve buoyancy forward, and to control the movement of the center of buoyancy as the boat heels. The same applies to the main hull of a trimaran.

Safety in the event of collision or capsise.

Even though it has become extremely unlikely that a properly designed multihull will capsise, the possibility still exists, in much the same way as it exists for any monohull. The monohull's escape valve is that there is a chance that the boat will right itself before it sinks. The multihull on the other hand can be made into a safe raft for the crew to live on in the inverted position, provided that proper provision for this eventuality has been made at the design stage. In terms of ultimate safety of the crew in the most extreme storm - I believe that a habitable inverted multihull offers better survival prospects than a partially flooded - dismasted monohull that has rolled through 360 degrees, and is in imminent danger of doing so again.

If possible watertight compartments should be built in to the amas of a trimaran, and where ever possible in a cat. A trimaran can be made virtually unsinkable by making the cross beams watertight, and by dividing the ama up into watertight compartments, in such a way that if any section is holed, the remaining volume is over120% of the displacement of the main hull. The bows should be backed with foam, and a watertight collision bulkhead can usually be placed about 6 feet back from the bow, without affecting the accommodation.

The structural cross beams of a cat should be designed to be watertight, with their combined volume large enough to support the whole weight of the vessel. In the unlikely event of a capsise, this will ensure that the boat floats high out of the water, which reduces stress on the structure, and allows the crew to live in the upturned hull. Escape hatches should be incorporated in all designs as a matter of course.

Construction and Fatigue.

- Integrated structure. During the lifespan of a multihull it is subjected to many cycles of a complex array of loads, and if the boat is to survive in all conditions without damage careful attention has to be paid to avoiding stress concentrations in the structure, and to the long term fatigue of the materials used to build it. Fig 9 shows a generalised stress diagram for an open bridgedeck catamaran. By using a computer to analyze the loads at any point in the boat, and then laying appropriate amounts of fibers aligned in the direction of the stress, the stiffness and the strength of the boat can be greatly increased. While at the same time weight can be saved by removing excess material where it is not required. This weight saving actually increases the strength of the boat, because it not only reduces the loads that the boat experiences, but it reduces stress concentrations, which are a major cause of fatigue failure. If the structural design is carried out in this way, and adequate allowance is made in the fiber stress levels in the all parts of the boat to account for long term fatigue, the lifespan of the boat will be greatly increased.

At present, research indicates that if a composite laminate can survive over 10 million cycles, it will last indefinitely. In general in order to achieve this, a factor of safety of at least 10 is required. In all my cruising designs I use at least 10 as a factor of safety in areas of maximum stress. For carbon in particular the laminate is strain limited because the material is so stiff, has a relatively low strain to failure, and an extremely high notch sensitivity. However the material can be very successfully used in areas where great stiffness is required, like the cross beams of a multihull. There are many racing and cruising multihulls sailing that have been designed in this way, and that have suffered no structural failure what so ever, in thousands of miles of hard ocean sailing.

Conclusion.

In the past 20 years the level of understanding of the factors that affect the seaworthiness of multihulls has increased enormously. I hope that the above discussion makes it clear that there are many different types of multihull, and that different techniques are required to handle thes different types of multihull in a storm. Indeed many of the problems and vices associated with the older designs have now been eliminated, and the new generation of cruising designs are very exciting boats to sail, while still offering vast accommodation, crew comfort, and most important of all - safety at sea.

References.

Technical papers..

• Race Results
• Owners' Comments
• Safety at Sea

James Wharram Designs

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Heavy weather sailing on wharrams.

I wrote in my description of the TIKI 46 :

"Some multihull designers find inspiration on the screen of the computer. I find inspiration when I am s**t scared at the rapid approach of a huge white capped wave. It is as if the adrenaline of 'how do I get out of this'? gets connected to 'how do I design my way out of this?'"

Someone asked, what did I mean? Recently, going through our files I discovered this range of storm wave pictures, dating from the first in the history of multihulls North Atlantic crossing aboard the Rongo in 1959, ending with the pictures of Spirit of Gaia in the Red Sea in 1998.

I have been sailing offshore on double canoe/catamarans for 45 years. Each storm at sea has its own individuality, within that storm certain waves brand themselves into ones consciousness.

A prime design requirement within my designs is to ride, without damage, the seas I have met.

A fellow speaker at the German Multihull Symposium in Bonn 1999 was Henk de Velde, a Dutch Ocean Multihull racer, who began his ocean sailing life sailing an ORO around the world. I realised during his lecture, from the emotions he expressed, our sea kinship. From that I realised what made me different from most other multihull designers (not all).

My "stand point" from the beginning of a design, is not an urban office way of life, but "out there", living in the ocean. This is where my strengths and weaknesses as a designer originate.

In a recent article requested by the American ‘Multihulls’ magazine I wrote about our 1959 crossing of the North Atlantic:

"After ten days, beginning with calms, light winds, sunbathing weather, we were 1000 miles on our way. Then on the edge of the Gulf Stream one night I saw lightning on the horizon. I had heard on the radio of an ex-tropical cyclone doing damage in Halifax. Carelessly I went to sleep leaving the boat under headsail and mizzen, to be awakened later to the moaning of the wind and the shouts of the girls. On deck vivid flashes of lightning lit up the dark. The wind I now estimate through years of experience (I could not stand or breath against it) about 60 knots. "Jutta, steering, had done as we had learnt, run off before the wind. Great white bow waves roared out, a rooster tail plumed behind. The mizzen sail, eased out had jammed against the rigging. Death was suddenly close to us. Even in 1959 from my Ancient Pacific studies I knew of the dangers of pitch poling, the danger of driving the hulls into the waves ahead and capsizing over the bows. "From the beginning of my design career I have always tried to get low centre of effort rigs (to give stability) with good windward performance. Rongo was not only the first catamaran to sail the North Atlantic, it was the first one (at sea) to use full-length battens to get a large roach and now, most of the wooden battens (no fibreglass in those days) had snapped, and the sail was bent over the mizzen backstay. "The waves were building up. A prayer to the Sea Gods and a brief lull and we had the tattered sail and the broken battens down. We trailed our anchor warps behind us to prevent broaching."

Later I wrote in my book ‘ Two Girls Two Catamarans ':

"Crawling back to the cockpit in the vivid lightning flashes, I saw Jutta sitting astride the steering bench, working the tiller backwards and forwards like a great oar, her long golden hair streaming in the wind like a banner of defiance. She was twenty years old. No one could have handled the ship better. As each wave with its snarling crest leapt at us, Jutta eased our pointed twin sterns into them. The wave parted, then ran down the side of the hulls, hardly checked in speed. So there was no build-up of water pressure to pile up and wash over our decks sweeping us away."

'Yachting World' February 2000, published a report about the 105ft racing catamaran Play Station’s Atlantic speed record attempt on December 16th 1999, being dashed by a wind situation and broken batten problem uncannily similar to the situation we were in 41 years ago. They reported:

"Firstly, we are all okay, but we took a hammering last night. We’d already had a scare when the bows went down, the rudders came out of the water and the boat slewed round, throwing a few people forward."... ..."The wind then increased to 45 knots and we were winding in the jib when, without warning it gusted 60 knots plus. I saw 62 on the true wind speed indicator. Gino Morelli was steering and we’d been bearing away. By this time we were dead downwind with no options. The boat was covered in a cloud of spray. Gino did a fantastic job of stopping us capsizing, but as we went dead downwind the main slammed against the lazy jacks and broke at least four battens."...

My 45-year fear of driving the bows under and "raising the rudder out of the water" can be seen to be a valid design fear, in my case driven home by so many "wave experiences" (see photographs)

The concept of turning to run away from a squall or gale front should be a part of all multihull sailors’ automatic reactions.

Recently a new edition of Adlard Coles’ ‘Heavy Weather Sailing’ has been written with a new chapter on multihull handling. They did not contact this office for information, though from a review in 'Yachting World' it appears that they show a photo of Raka in a gale, taken by Ruth in the Atlantic in 1977. The Raka, running before the seas, is trailing a big loop of warp.

For the 63 foot Spirit of Gaia we designed and made a big drogue, 9 foot across, but never used it. Spirit of Gaia sailed on a close reach under storm jib in wind speeds up to 47 knots (force 9) for several days (New Zealand to Fiji), with waves building up bigger all the time. In force 8 gales we have successfully drifted ‘beam on’, with all sails down, making only 1-1½ knots leeway.

I am not the only Wharram sailor. "Out there" are many Wharram sailors, who have experienced sufficient offshore bad weather to have positive practical knowledge. Would they like to submit their experience to this website?

Note I write Wharram sailors with practical experience, because:

• Wharram Designs are designed specifically to run before gales, with canoe sterns and overhanging bows, no, or low, deck cabin, no in-hull cockpits. (Most other multihull designs are not);
• There is a large amount of theoretical discussion on gale handling. We need to begin with a discussion of actual experience.

Storm Tactics On Wharram Catamarans

Don Brazier, Wharram agent in New Zealand and owner/builder of a beautiful 41 foot Narai Mk IV, has been collecting accounts from many Wharram sailors who have experienced severe weather at sea. He himself has made a number of voyages in the Pacific and encountered severe weather, in which he deployed drogue and parachute. Read them here .

Submit Your Story..

This can be the beginning of a data file of "real experiences in sea survival", as it relates to Wharram Designs. So lets hear from you. Would you like to submit your experience? Contact us .

• Storm Tactics On Wharram Catamarans - Don Brazier
• Mother Ocean's Lesson in Survival - Mike Lynn
• Katipo Voyage - Don Brazier
• How Low Can You Go - Beat Rettenmund

A Carnival Sunshine passenger says he's surprised to be alive after the ship was rocked by a terrifying storm that smashed his window

• A cruise-ship passenger spoke of his surprise at surviving a storm while at sea.
• Bill Hassler told CNN that a wave broke the window of his cabin and let water in.
• The Carnival Sunshine had been returning from the Bahamas and heading for South Carolina.

A passenger on board a cruise ship that was caught up in a terrifying storm while sailing to Charleston, South Carolina, says he feared for his life. 

A storm off the Southeastern coast of the US hit the Carnival Sunshine cruise ship during its return from the Bahamas last weekend, Fox Weather reported. Data from the National Weather Service showed that there were wind speeds of up to 46 miles per hour in some areas of Charleston over the weekend. 

Bill Hassler, a passenger on board the ship, told CNN he was "surprised I'm still alive" after the storm. He told the news outlet a wave broke the window of his cabin and let water in.

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He said: "When I got home Sunday night, I had to crack open a beer and think about it, and I started shaking because it just set in. I couldn't even believe I'm still here."

One video showing severe flooding in the aftermath of the incident was posted on Twitter by Crew Center and also featured in the CNN report.

Speaking to CNN, Hassler criticized the cruise operator for sailing in poor weather conditions, questioning why officials didn't wait for the storm to subside before setting off. 

Representatives for Carnival Cruise Line did not immediately respond to Insider's request for comment. However, a spokesperson said in a statement shared on Monday that the ship's "return to Charleston was impacted by the weather and rough seas on Saturday."

"The weather's prolonged impact on the Charleston area delayed the ship's arrival and as a result, the next voyage's embarkation was also delayed. We appreciate the patience and understanding of all our guests. Carnival Sunshine is now sailing on its next cruise," the statement read. 

Watch: The rise and fall of the cruise industry

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