ocean yachts hull truth

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29' Super Sport

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Looking at a 1990 29' Super Sport on Sat. I know Ocean had problems with their older boats. Let's here some opinions. Thanks.  

oceans are great looking boats, but I don't think the ride is all there. My dad fished on a 48 ocean for 4 years doing the WMO and he said it slam and pounded quite a bit. I aheard the new ones are real nice and the ride has improve!!  

Albemarle305 said: oceans are great looking boats, but I don't think the ride is all there. My dad fished on a 48 ocean for 4 years doing the WMO and he said it slam and pounded quite a bit. I aheard the new ones are real nice and the ride has improve!! Click to expand...

my buddy has the 40ocean open 2001 the thing rides well in most conditions. we have been in some nasty weather before not much pounding at all nothing much more then any other boat would in the forty foot range wouldnt do.  

Wasn't The 29 That Used To Tip If It Had The Hard Top Dont Know How The Ride The 32 I Think Is Bad In A Fowling Sea Been On One And It Was Scary In A Folling Sea  

Kevin8105 said: Wasn't The 29 That Used To Tip If It Had The Hard Top Dont Know How The Ride The 32 I Think Is Bad In A Fowling Sea Been On One And It Was Scary In A Folling Sea Click to expand...

I have a 1990 32 SS and have taken it to the Hudson canyon dozens of times in the past 8 years. Great boat, fast and never a problem. It is a bit touchy in a following sea but nothing scary. I would stay away from the 29 and find a 32 for just a bit more money. Most of the Ocean bashing involves boats from the early 80s, the later ones are fine boats. My next boat will also be an Ocean.  

Research that boat! Do Your homework! The 29 was not a sea-kindly boat. There have been several lawsuits by owners of 29' Oceans. Do a Pascoe search and You will find a great report with regards to this. By the way, several of the cases I have read involver 29's w/hard-tops that pitch-poled and flipped in a following sea. I think Ocean replaced the hard-tops on most with bimini's as They thought this would help.  

Marlineer said: Do Your homework! The 29 was not a sea-kindly boat. There have been several lawsuits by owners of 29' Oceans. Do a Pascoe search and You will find a great report with regards to this. By the way, several of the cases I have read involver 29's w/hard-tops that pitch-poled and flipped in a following sea. I think Ocean replaced the hard-tops on most with bimini's as They thought this would help. Click to expand...

Pretty much what I expected. I was wondering why such a clean ride was priced so low. Thanks for the input.  

Thats What I Thought They Had Alot That Flipped As For The 32 The One I Was On Ran Fine In The Head Sea And Sat Well On The Chunk Just A Little To Scary With The Following  

Get A Seatbelt!!!!!  

Is this the one? https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/Ocean-Yachts-29-3231624/Waretown/NJ/United-States I think if you really want that boat, hire a very good surveyor. If your willing to spend the money on the surveyor, you need to be prepared to spend the money to get the boat in good workable condition. Boats inherently always have gremlins and depending on what you want to use the boat for, will depend on how deep you reach into your savings account. Looking at the picture of the engine room, I see evidence of possible broader issues with boat systems. If your mechanically capable, that is one thing, but from the picture, it appears there is a lot of work ahead of you. Old boats have old wiring and stray wiring. underdeck systems could be at a point where lots of things will need replacing. Good luck and remember, you get what you pay for. PS. not to say it happened with this boat, but Hurricane Sandy did take a toll on a lot of boats. Knowing this boats history and getting your own broker who is working on your behalf to dig into possible issues is to your benefit. https://www.marlinmag.com/buying-or-selling-boat-professional-broker#page-3  

polarizer said: Is this the one? https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/Ocean-Yachts-29-3231624/Waretown/NJ/United-States I think if you really want that boat, hire a very good surveyor. If your willing to spend the money on the surveyor, you need to be prepared to spend the money to get the boat in good workable condition. Boats inherently always have gremlins and depending on what you want to use the boat for, will depend on how deep you reach into your savings account. Looking at the picture of the engine room, I see evidence of possible broader issues with boat systems. If your mechanically capable, that is one thing, but from the picture, it appears there is a lot of work ahead of you. Old boats have old wiring and stray wiring. underdeck systems could be at a point where lots of things will need replacing. Good luck and remember, you get what you pay for. PS. not to say it happened with this boat, but Hurricane Sandy did take a toll on a lot of boats. Knowing this boats history and getting your own broker who is working on your behalf to dig into possible issues is to your benefit. https://www.marlinmag.com/buying-or-selling-boat-professional-broker#page-3 Click to expand...

So many good deals out there to be had right now. Shoot for something a bit bigger in my opinion. 32-34/35. I have a 2005 43 Ocean. On my first season but we absolutely lover her!!  

Wth! This thread is 11 years old!  

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Paul Heberer New Member

I am looking at an Ocean Yacht 48' that I like but other captains I met tell me to stay away from the Oceans, which I'm not sure is a myth or there is some truth to the matter. Any feedback to that story would be great and better yet if anyone that owns one in a similar vintage I would like to have a phone conversation with you. My cell is: Number Removed. Read our Rules please . , thanks Paul

Tashmoo New Member

There are 3 generations of the Ocean 48 and feedback will vary by build vintage. The original Gen 1 build launched in 1986; some cosmetic changes for Gen 2 in 1991 and a complete keel up redesign for Gen 3 for 1995-2003. The early builds got caught up in the whole ‘flexible flyer’ nonsense that your cap’t friends are probably ref’ing. The Gen 3 build is a completely different and superior boat and inarguably the best of the bunch - and more expensive of course. You also get 4 cycle power options. Ocean built over 400 total boats over an 18 year production run, and most are still running happily offshore. That’s a pretty respectable career.

Strypes New Member

The Gen 3 Oceans are definitely great boats and the way to go over other generations.

Capt Ralph Senior Member

Send us the web sales ad and we can offer more comments on it.

BigChief Member

What power do you have 3196s DDECs Series 60

BigChief said: ↑ What power do you have 3196s DDECs Series 60 Click to expand...

tbaxl Member

I have a 1998 48, bang for buck probably one of the best out there, my only complaint is the same as a few others who have, or own one, playing "find the leak" but that is not something that applies only to the Ocean line. If you ever want to talk feel free to pm me your number

Capt Ralph said: ↑ In an ole Ocean?? Old Detroits would be more correct. Still waiting for the OP to help us, help him. Click to expand...

BigChief said: ↑ Listing says its a 1999 prob cats What else do you want to know? Click to expand...

Capt Ralph said: ↑ Well, the listing, maybe a lil more participation from the OP. On the other hand, never mind. I'm done here. Click to expand...

cleanslate Senior Member

We have an 1981 42’ Sunliner. Bought it 2014. I’ve put lots of TLC into it due to neglect and really love the boat. Has an awesome interior layout for its size. We use it on a regular basis, actually writing this now on the boat . Spent our new year’s on it. Lol 60 degrees out today, winter storm watch tomorrow 6” of snow they say…but we will still use it as a dock-o-minium through the winter. Mine is solid thin hull fiberglass, no core. Anyway we are coastal cruisers and have run the boat through some nasty weather. She always does well, not much flexing going on. But I also don’t run it hard/fast in bad seas to stress the boat. I’ve always heard good things about the 48’. It’s a sharp looking boat. There are two in my marina. Yes , great bang for the buck vessels.

I have A 96 48 that originally had the 3196 is what about 3000 hours they were replaced in 2008 with C12 which is what I now have. If you've got 1800 hours on those engines they should be good to good to go. the aftercooler problems were fixed long ago. You will still need to follow the cat recommended service intervals For the after cooler cores. My boat's been great rides well does good in all types of sea conditions. The engine rooms are pretty tight because the fuel tanks are up along the side of the boat But that keeps them away from the salt and corrosion. The generator can be a little noisy because the engine vents are in the cockpit which gives the hull a nice sleek look. There's no wood anywhere in the decks or hull they used a foam sandwich instead of balsa called divinicell. Overall I think you will enjoy it they're well built they just don't have the Bells and whistles like the other Sportfish manufacturers down in Jersey we're making at that time that's why they're priced less. The manufacturer wants The boat blocked Along the keel every 7' and stands every 5 to 7' Follow that and you won't have a problem. And who doesn't love the galley up, the salon is a huge, other manufacturers should have jumped on that sooner. Nice yellow hull too Good luck

Interested in your plan to transport from PR. Fuel bladder(s) on her own bottom? Transport ship? C-5 airlift ?

Tashmoo said: ↑ Interested in your plan to transport from PR. Fuel bladder(s) on her own bottom? Transport ship? C-5 airlift ? Click to expand...

In all due respect Paul, unless you are getting this boat for a steal, which would cause concern, there has to be many 48' Oceans around the continental U.S. including your back yard, for sale. You will be spending big transport/travel bucks on an unknown boat, that is only worth so much in the first place. Also you better get some insurance quotes first before you purchase a boat in PR and run it back to Florida or Madison. Insurance is real hard to get now, no matter the boat. Save even more money, which you will need for whatever boat you buy, look at the Ocean 46'. Fast, nice boat. I'm sure there are a few nice clean ones with fresh Detroit's in them and a new generator ready to go. Boat will pretty much do all the 48' Ocean will due at much lower price.

DOCKMASTER Senior Member

Sounds like he wants the boat to be in Puerto Rico the way I read his post

DOCKMASTER said: ↑ Sounds like he wants the boat to be in Puerto Rico the way I read his post Click to expand...

hat4349 Senior Member

I'd have it surveyed and if in good condition buy it. You'll say money not having to ship another one.

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Yacht Hull Types

For many clients purchasing a yacht today, there are many things to consider. The most important consideration is choosing which hull design best suits them and their cruising desires. There are 3 types of hull designs in the recreational yachting world:

A planing hull runs the majority of the time on top of the water, achieving high speeds, getting from point A to point B very quickly. Planing hulls typically are the least efficient and have the least comfortable ride. Rather than going "through the water" they go across the top of the water and are subject to the state of the surface of the water at any given time. Planing hulls are not recommended when purchasing a cruising yacht.

Semi-Displacement

Full displacement.

When purchasing a yacht, choose a yacht for how you are going to cruise the majority of the time. Do not purchase a yacht for something that you may do once in the lifetime of the ownership of that yacht. Many people fall into the trap of dreaming of how they may cruise as compared to how they will likely cruise and most times end up making the wrong decision on the purchase of a yacht. Many Outer Reef Yachts owners don't want restrictions as to where they would like to cruise, and therefore, have chosen an Outer Reef due to the cruising freedom she affords.

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

How hull shape affects comfort at sea

• julianwolfram
• September 15, 2021

Understanding how your hull shape responds to waves will keep you and your crew safe and comfortable in a blow, says Julian Wolfram

Understanding how your hull shape responds to waves will keep you and your crew safe and comfortable. Credit: Richard Langdon

There are many desirable attributes sailors want in their cruising yacht.

Julian Wolfram is a physicist, naval architect, former professor of ocean engineering at Heriot-Watt in Edinburgh and a Yachtmaster Offshore who has cruised and raced for 45 years

Stability is obviously a crucial factor, but there are other important factors that should be considered when judging a sailing yacht and the balance of these will depend on the type of cruising envisaged and whether there may be some club racing involved.

Comfort, or seakindliness , is high on many people’s list and a boat that bounces around or slams in a choppy sea is generally shunned by all except hardened racers who will put up with any discomfort in the pursuit of speed.

However, most sailors likes to sail and a boat that can’t maintain a reasonable speed in light winds and frequently requires the use of the engine is also undesirable.

When the wind picks up a bit, a yacht that responds with a good turn of speed is a delight and can make the difference between arriving in daylight and tying up in the dark after a long passage.

A traditional long-keel working boat style cutter – Heard 35. Credit: Graham Snook

Finally, there is course-keeping and manoeuvrability .

A yacht where the helm can be left unattended for a minute or two can be a godsend to a short-handed crew , but the same crew will welcome good manoeuvrability when going into a crowded harbour or marina.

A yacht regarded as being ‘well-found’ is usually a boat that responds slowly and gently to the waves and doesn’t slam when sailing or motor-sailing up wind in a bit of sea, but she may not be the fastest boat out of the blocks.

Comfort depends on low accelerations, and research has shown that the travelling public feel ‘general discomfort’ when accelerations exceed 0.2g (more than 20% of the acceleration due to gravity).

A medium displacement fin and skeg sloop – Hallberg Rassy 352. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

To put this in context, the acceleration at the top of a big, very steep wave can reach 0.5g.

There are international standards on comfort, based on acceleration figures, that have to be met by operators of public transport systems and these are used in the design of manned and unmanned rail and road vehicles.

Whilst we can maintain the smoothness of rails and roads you can’t do the same for the sea, so ferries have ‘operability criteria’ that limit the sea conditions in which they can operate.

Of course bigger vessels are able to operate in more severe conditions than smaller ones. There are also Motion Sickness Indices based on accelerations that predict the number of passengers likely to be ill.

When it comes to small yachts it’s up to the skipper and crew to decide upon the conditions in which they will stay in port.

Light displacement, modern wide hull – Pogo 10.50

This decision should depend, at least in part, on how comfortable the yacht is in a seaway.

Now the comfort of yachts of the same size can be remarkably different. Take yachts of around 35ft or 10.6m long – a common yacht length.

Three examples show how much the displacement can vary for this size of vessel. The Heard 35, a traditional long keel working boat type design, weighs 12.7 tonnes; the Hallberg Rassy 352 , with quite a long keel but separate skeg-hung rudder, weighs 6.7 tonnes; and the Pogo 10.50, which has a very modern wedge-shaped hull with a narrow but deep lifting keel and spade rudder, weighs 3.6 tonnes.

Hull shape: Rolling

Consider these three yachts moored in a line when a fat motor boat goes past with a big wake.

The heave (lifting) force produced by the waves will depend on the yachts’ waterplane area and these will all be roughly the same for all three.

So, initially, they will all experience the same heave force. Now remember Newton’s famous law: force = mass x acceleration. This can be rewritten for boats as:-

Acceleration = Force/Mass (displacement + AV M)

Of course Newton’s Law is usually applied to objects in air, and when a boat moves in water it moves the water around it as well, and this must be accounted for.

This is known as the added virtual mass (AVM) and it will be broadly similar for all these yachts when heaving, and has the beneficial effect of reducing the acceleration.

When it comes to rolling, weight is also an advantage, given careful design and a metacentric height (GM – is the distance from the centre of gravity to the point where the vertical line through the centre of buoyancy, when heeled through a small angle, intersects the centreline. It is a measure of the initial stability or stiffness of a yacht (for small angles, GM multiplied by the angle of heel gives the righting lever) that is not unnecessarily large.

Does your boat slam or hobby-horse over waves? Knowing the difference helps you decide when you’re happy to put to sea and when you’d rather wait. Credit: Richard Langdon

The sail-carrying capacity of a yacht depends on the product of its displacement and GM, so if the displacement is large the GM can be smaller.

A lower GM will lead to lower angular accelerations and a more comfortable rolling motion.

Let’s assume that all the yachts will heel to the same angle when setting full sail in a light breeze on a close reach.

The Heard sets 92 sq. m, with its topsail up, the Hallberg Rassy 64 sq. m and the Pogo 71 sq. m which means the Heard can have a lower GM than the Hallberg Rassy and both can be lower than the Pogo.

Continues below…

How keel type affects performance

James Jermain looks at the main keel types, their typical performance and the pros and cons of each

Hallberg-Rassy 40C: The best sailing boat Hallberg-Rassy has ever built?

The Swedish yard is turbo-charging its range of offshore cruisers, but have they left good old-fashioned seaworthiness behind? Theo Stocker…

Downwind secrets of ocean sailors

How do you choose which sails to set or what course to steer, and can you stop the boat rolling?…

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The result is that the Pogo 10 will accelerate nearly twice as quickly as the Heard 35 and about 30% more quickly than the HR352.

So the Pogo 10 motion will be lively whereas the Heard 35 will respond slowly and the HR352 will be somewhere in the middle.

A single wave breaking against the side of the hull will be more noticeable jerk in the Pogo 10 than in HR352 and less noticeable again in the Heard 35.

Interestingly the late Ed Burnett, in discussing the design for his long keeled yacht Nomad , decided against a carbon fibre mast and in favour of a wooden one so as to keep GM smaller and the rolling motion more comfortable.

Credit: Maxine Heath

The reasoning behind this decision is reflected in the diagram above, which shows the estimated roll angles and corresponding angular accelerations for our three yachts whilst on their moorings with waves on the beam.

In a harbour with a 6-knot speed limit the waves generated by passing craft will be between 2m and 6m long, enough to get resonant rolling of the Pogo 10.

But it needs a passing vessel to go at 9 knots to get the Heard 35 to roll.

More significantly, although the maximum roll angles are reasonably similar, the acceleration is much higher for the light Pogo 10.

No wonder racing crews tend to sleep ashore whenever possible. (It should be mentioned that these curves are based on simple linear theory and it is assumed the damping is the same in each case, however these approximations do not affect the broad thrust of the results.)

So in general, for a given length of boat, a greater displacement will result in a more comfortable motion in the sort of waves you might encounter in an anchorage.

Of course the bigger the boat the greater the comfort, and large vessels don’t move much when the fishing boats tear out at 0400!

Hull shape: Pitching

When sailing, of course, the sails will damp out the rolling motion but not the heaving and pitching.

The diagram below shows our yachts going into head seas at 5 knots. Here the wave height is 30cm with a wavelength of 5m.

This goes up to 1.3m when the wavelength is 35m, which is roughly what may happen when the sea rises as the wind increase to Force 6 (25 knots).

The natural period of pitching is larger for a heavy yacht and resonant pitching will occur when driving into longer and generally higher waves than for a lighter yacht.

This is the one occasion when heavy displacement can be a negative in terms of comfort.

The more symmetrical hulls normally associated with heavy displacement have less damping and tend to ‘hobby horse’ in these conditions.

However, they can drive through a short chop comfortably with small accelerations when the light boat is having a more torrid time.

Of all the yacht motions, slamming is often the one that produces the most discomfort and accelerations of over 3g have been measured by Southampton University on racing yachts going upwind.

Slamming was first studied analytically by Theodore Von Karman in connection to seaplane floats in 1929.

Von Karman studied, among other things, the vortex shedding behind slender cylinders, now known as a Karman Street, that gives rise to the strumming vibration of rigging and halyards in high winds.

He showed how important it was to have a ‘V’ shape to the bottom of a seaplane float to reduce the slamming impact on landing. Naval architects call the angle the hull makes with the horizontal at the centreline the ‘dead rise’ .

So a flat bottom has 0° dead rise.

Von Karman showed if you doubled the deadrise angle the impact force should half.

Impact pressure = 1/Tangent of deodorise angle

So, approximately if you increase the deadrise angle from 5o to 10° you halve the impact pressure and significantly reduce the slamming. (This formula doesn’t work when there is no deadrise, i.e. a flat bottom, and Von Karman produced a more complex analysis for this case).

Unfortunately, a trend was started in the 1970s to give sailing yachts flat-bottom bows following the introduction of the International Offshore Rating rule.

The rule wanted to get an estimate of displacement for each yacht without actually weighing it. That was considered too difficult at the time.

So they introduced a complex series of measurements to various points around the hull beneath the waterline including some at the bow.

However, yacht designers soon started to distort the hull shape at the measurement points to kid the rule that a light hull was actually heavier, which gave the yacht a better handicap than would otherwise be the case.

The diagram above shows what was typically done in the bow region to get a lighter boat with lower wetted surface area.

My first personal experience of this trend came in the 1980s when I changed my Trapper 500 for a Westerly Fulmar.

The Fulmar was quicker and had much better accommodation, but it was much more prone to slamming.

A Trapper 500 with V-shaped bow sections

I remember motor-sailing, to catch a tide, down the Irish coast into a short chop when it seemed to slam on every other wave.

The Trapper, on the other hand, rarely slammed even when my kids decided to take a shortcut through overfalls at the top of Skye while I was having an off-watch nap below – it was the pitching that woke me, not any slamming.

The photos show clearly the difference in bow shape.

A ‘V’ or well-rounded bow shape is the best to avoid slamming and if there is any flat area near the bow it should be small to ensure the deceleration on a slamming impact is minimised.

The Westerly Fulmar has a flattened section aft of the bow

If you look at lifeboats and RIBs you will see they have deadrise angles of at least 20o, even at the stern.

Going at high speed in a flat-bottom boat through a steep chop can be an ankle-shattering experience!

Draw a chalk line perpendicular to the centre line and view from ahead to get a sense of your boat’s boat sections. Credit: Julian Woolfram

Drawing a chalk line around the hull mid way between the bow and the keel from the waterline on one side to the waterline on the other side and viewing from the bow will give a good impression of how seakindly, or otherwise, the bow is.

If you have the body plan for the hull look at the shape of the sections near the bow.

Hull shape: Wave slap

Now look at the stern, if it is wide and rises at a shallow angle through the waterline to accommodate a spacious aft cabin, it will probably suffer from ‘wave slap’.

Ideally the angle should be about 17o.

Much steeper, especially on a wide stern, and water flow separation will increase drag; much shallower and there will be wave slap (see below).

I watched a fat little fishing boat going out at a fair lick from an inner berth in Le Crouesty marina last year and nearly half the sailing yacht sterns it passed were slapped on their undersides by its wake.

Not a great way to wake up (excuse the pun) in your sumptuous aft cabin at 0530.

Above and below decks

The other factor to consider in how your crew will experience the seakindliness of any boat is where they are on the boat.

We all know that sleeping in the bow cabin at sea can be like a fairground ride compared to the saloon.

A good sea boat will have this factored into its cockpit and accommodation arrangement, with everything that will be used at sea in the middle third of the boat’s length – heads, chart table, galley and sea berths all need to be here, close to the point of minimum motion just aft of amidships and close to the waterline (see below).

The same is true on deck.

Ideally the helmsman and crew should be able to operate the boat from the forward part of the cockpit and not have to go forward of the mast, or to be perched right at the stern.

While many larger boats, and some boats as small as 30ft, now have twin wheels shoved out to the aft quarters to create more cockpit space and a better view forward, this isn’t the most comfortable place to be.

Tiller steering on small boats is no bad thing as it allows the helm to be much further forward, where there is less motion and more shelter.

Seaberths, galley heads and chart table in the middle third of the boat provide more comfort at sea. Credit: Graham Snook

However, another person’s ideal sea boat may be very different to mine.

It’s just important to understand the difference that their design makes to the conditions you are happy to set out in, understanding when it’s going to be uncomfortable, and how to handle your boat when the wind does get up.

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The Hull Truth

• By Steve Griffin
• Updated: January 11, 2008

FasTrac, SureTrac, Z-Trak, Z-Plane — the world of hull design is a hive of buzz phrases. But what they really mean could be a telltale sign of which used boat to buy, or not to buy.

Oooh, the clean sweeps and crisp lines of those boats. Such style! You’ll see a lot of that on these pages. But hull design is not just a matter of style. At least it shouldn’t be.

A boat hull has all sorts of shapes, bends, fins and grooves — things you can see most clearly when the boat’s on the trailer. Surely, you’ve wondered: Why the hull do boat makers do that?

Well, they do it because a deep-V hull is seaworthy but slow, and a flat-bottom is fast but flakey. Finding a blend of seaworthiness and speed has become a tantalizing challenge for some builders. Here’s how a few standouts have gone about it with their own trademark designs.

The Hull Truth: SeaVee Z

Case Study: SeaVee Z Series SeaVee boats have long been heralded for their great-running conventional deep-V hulls. At the 2013 Fort Lauderdale Boat Show, the Miami boat builder introduced their new “Z” series line of stepped-hull boats.

I sea-trialed SeaVee’s 390-Z and then met with John Caballero of Sea Vee to get the “hull truth” behind these new double-stepped center console boats. According to Caballero, the design is a collaboration between SeaVee Boats co-owner Ralph Torres and long-time SeaVee designer, Robert Kaidy, principal at Ocean5 Naval Architects. It features a pair of small, 2-inch tall steps with large vents at the chines. This feature purportedly prevents the vents from clogging up and allows the more air to be fed to the hull, alleviating the “hitch” or “hesitation” –it’s an instantaneous loss of speed, really–that many stepped hulls exhibit due to clogged vents. During my trial of the 390-Z I can say that I did not experience this hesitation. I will also say that I have experienced it aboard other boats. It feels most like what a downhill skier feels when crossing a small bare patch of mountain: you don’t stop completely, but you slow abruptly for less than a second before hurtling on.

The second key feature incorporated into SeaVee’s Z series hulls are the so-called “speed rails.” These are the 90-degree inside corners molded into the chines and strakes, as seen in the above photo. These are on the aft hull panel only—that is, the part of the hull aft of the aft-most step.

Speed rails keep the boat tracking true, particularly in turns. Many stepped hull boats get “squirrely” when turning. But I was able to haul the SeaVee 390-Z through some high-speed, hardover turns with as much confidence as I would when commanding a conventional V-hulled boat.

Finally, the Z series hulls feature a flat keel for most of the length of the underbody. This stays wet and allows installation of through-hulls to be successful, something always problematic aboard stepped-hull boats. But more importantly, the flat keel section provides more lift, easing the transition onto plane. Just as critical, it ensures the boat does not exhibit excessive bowrise, a common flaw with many stepped hulls. Since boating measures bowrise as part of our certified boat tests, I can say that the SeaVee 390-Z does not exhibit excessive inclination (bowrise); the most I measured was 3-degrees.

The Hull Truth: Regal FasTrac

Case Study: Regal’s FasTrac Hull Regal was one of the first recreational boatbuilders to find a way to use a stepped hull to create speed without compromising stability. Go-fast boats have used steps (long notches that run from the outside of the hull to the keel) for decades. They’re used to ventilate the hull, which simply means the step allows part of the boat to ride on a layer of air bubbles, reducing friction. In the race boats, though, it can also cause herky-jerky movements.

Where the FasTrac differs is in its retention of a mild V-shape in the aft in turns while avoiding the “coming loose” feel of some stepped hulls. It’s been imitated, which is without a doubt the sincerest form of flattery in boatbuilding.

The Hull Truth: Larson Duo-Delta Conic Hull

Case Study: Larson’s Duo-Delta Conic Hull Larson licenses Harry Schoell’s patent for this design, which it uses in its sport cruiser line. The running surface is stepped to create two sections of hull on the water at plane, one forward and one aft of the notch. Together they’re much smaller than the single contact area of a typical V-bottom. Less wetted surface means faster top speed.

This design also reaches that speed more quickly. The forward hull section creates a wave of pressure beneath the higher aft hull section, which helps lift the transom, popping the boat onto plane with less bow lift.

“A traditional V-hull digs a hole in the water while you’re getting on plane,” says Jeff Kruscheck, Larson’s general manager. “With the stepped hull, what you have is almost a natural trim tab.” We’ve tested it, and the hull lives up to the hype.

The Hull Truth: Stingray Z-Plane Hull

Case Study: Stingray’s Z-Plane Hull Stingray president Al Fink once said his goal was “to make a boat as fast as it can be, but safe and easy enough for your grandmother to drive.”

Stingray, which introduced its CAD-designed and patented hull in 1989, knows plenty about the pluses and minuses of the V-bottom boats with lifting strakes. Typically, lifting strakes are roughly parallel to the water’s surface and the keel — until the boat turns, when they dig in and force the driver to slow down. They also create air bubbles in the water, reducing the propeller’s bite. Lowering the motor helps, but that creates drag. Speed is lost.

The Z-Plane Hull minimizes these problems by avoiding right-angled strakes. The hull’s running surface is actually three shapes nested, becoming steeper as they approach the chine. These running surfaces have strakes that vary from right angles by about five degrees.

The result? Less unwanted grab and ventilation in turns. The motor can be mounted higher, which reduces drag. Drive, Grandma.

The Hull Truth: Four-Winns Stable-Vee

Case Study: Four Winns’ Stable-Vee and Split Chines Four Winns engineers are quick to point out that the new SL262 is not a deck boat. It looks like it could be a cathedral hull, riding on three points of entry. But those exaggerated sponsons on the outside of the running surface are called split chines. Most runabouts have chines (those big lips deep in the hull upon which the boat lifts) just not… so big. Here’s the kicker: The SL262 doesn’t ride on them. They’re out of the water when the boat’s on plane. Four Winns added them strictly to widen the interior space farther forward.

The actual running surface is the award-winning Stable-Vee hull that Four Winns introduced 15 years ago, and which many others have tried to mimic. This design pushes the running surface farther aft, so the outdrive is tucked into a pod. The deadrise, or angle of the V-bottom, changes degrees farther back. The purpose is to keep the boat from banking in turns. It handles more like a sports car — with all four wheels firmly on the pavement.

The Hull Truth: Ebbtide Z-Trak Hull

Case Study: Ebbtide Z-Trak Hull Ebbtide president Tommy Trabue loves speedy boats. But as he explains on the company’s website, “Performance is about more than just going fast. It’s about stability, handling and feel in rough water, how your boat corners and holds in tight turns”.

To get those attributes, plus quick time to plane, Ebbtide builds its Z-Trak hull with unique double-vented chines that send air under the running surface, reducing speed-robbing drag at two points (and producing the distinctive Z-shape seen from the side as the boat whizzes past.)

The hull gently evokes the best qualities of the tri-hull look, but its outer hull sections don’t dip as low. The result? A ride that’s pleasant. An appearance that is powerful. Stability that’s sure. And yes, a boat that’s fast.

The Hull Truth: Nitro Pad Hulls

Case Study: Nitro’s Pad Hulls “When the (pad hull) boat climbs up on its pad to plane,” says Tracker Marine product specialist Steve Mason, “you can feel the acceleration. It’s almost like the boat has lost 500 pounds.”

A pad is a flattened section of hull, on the keel near the transom. The rest of the hull, the chines and strakes, lift the boat onto the pad, which then rides literally above the chop.

A pad is flatter than the rest of the running surface, by the way, but not often actually flat. “If it’s too flat and you bust a wave,” says Mason, “you’re going to transmit that energy into the boat and into you.” The boatbuilder doesn’t want the former. You don’t want the latter.

The Hull Truth: Chaparral Extended V-Plane

Case Study: Chaparral’s Extended V-Plane There are two ways to describe Chaparral’s approach: lengthen the hull to wrap around the outdrive of its I/O boats, or draw the center portion of the transom forward within the hull. Either way, you’re getting full use of your boat’s length. This has less to do with faster top speeds and more to do with the ability to jump onto plane quicker and stay on plane at slower speeds.

You actually put the stern-drive into a pocket. That creates a longer running surface surrounding the outdrive and helping the boat maintain a flatter attitude. It’s like a permanent trim tab. The concept also places the drive and prop farther forward of the swim platform, which has safety advantages.

We’ve found that in this case, and in the others above it, the fancy name gets real results.

Square Idea Euro is in. Look at most fiberglass boats in this guide and you’ll see soft, sculpted lines in the profiles. This trend has taken shape because of advances in how boats can be cured and pulled from molds in the factories. Used to be anything fiberglass was pretty square out of necessity.

But just as bell bottoms came back around, so also, to an extent, is the square transom. Now considered retro, the flat back has found a new groove thanks to Bayliner’s Explorer series. The design is as practical as a denim jacket because it puts more space in the boat than a rounded transom with a swim platform. That’s probably why it’s most popular in cold-water regions like Maine, the Great Lakes and Seattle, where comfort not only trumps fashion but sometimes becomes fashionable.

9 Terms for Laymen Planing Hull – A hull designed to ride across the top of the water, rather than plow through it (as does a displacement hull like a pontoon). Stepped Hull – A hull with a trough that runs from the outer chine all the way to the keel, creating separate forward and aft surfaces. The junction of the two appears as a stair step. Tri-Hull – A V-hull with two additional outside hulls; also called gull-wing hull. This might be found in a deck boat or catamaran. V-Hull – A boat with a pointed bow and V-shaped bottom, at least in its forward section, for cutting through the water and softening the ride. Chine – Where the side of the boat transitions to the bottom of the boat, creating a corner. The sharper the corner, the “harder” the chine and the stronger the bite in turns. Reverse Chine – A two-corner chine; before the bottom meets the side, it forms an upside-down V-shape to deflect spray away from the boat. Keel – The centerline, or spine, of a boat. The sharper the keel’s angle (deadrise), the softer the ride — though sometimes at a cost in speed. Pad – A flat or nearly flat area on the running surface toward the back of the boat. Strakes – Horizontal or nearly horizontal lengthwise surfaces that help lift the boat onto plane.

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Small Boats for Offshore Fishing

• By Sport Fishing Staff
• Updated: July 28, 2020

What is the minimum size boat for offshore fishing? The answer depends on who you ask. The challenge and your budget are the two biggest reasons for fishing from a small offshore boat. Many cite the unique satisfaction of taking on the ocean to fish it on their own terms, knowing they have the boat, the knowledge and the ability to get out there, catch some good fish and get back.

“There’s definitely the excitement of being out there in a small boat where you’re in control and doing your own thing,” said Angelo Cuanang, a West Coast offshore fishing writer and expert who regularly runs out to fish off San Francisco Bay. He’s done so for many years — all in a 17-foot Boston Whaler Montauk. Being unsinkable, the Whaler is one of the best small boats for ocean fishing.

One school of thought from skilled mariners actually considers a smaller hull advantageous in large swells. Tom King, once a professional mate in Massachusetts, for years made the 20-plus-mile run to fish Stellwagen Bank aboard his 19-foot Midland (“a Nova Scotia-style hull,” he said, with a very high bow and very low freeboard). “We came home riding on top of the big seas like an eggshell, while much bigger sport-fishing boats were having a tough time rolling in the swells.”

For purposes of this discussion, let’s focus on saltwater fishing boats with a minimum size ranging from 17 to 22 feet in length overall (LOA). A boat this size has an element of responsiveness that much larger hulls lose. In addition to being a criterion for offshore fishing, this size range also offers the best small boats for rough seas. Of course, rough seas are relative, and distance from shore often dictates the decision to go or not go.

Offshore Boating Benefits of Small Fishing Boats

Besides the challenge, downsized boats are less expensive and easy to tow on the road than king-size boats. Small boats can also be easier to handle and dock in tight quarters, though features such as joystick controls on larger boats are making low-speed maneuvers easier for skippers of large boats.

Start comparing costs of purchase, insurance , moorage or storage, maintenance and so on for a 30-foot center-console with those of a 22-footer. Then of course there are fuel costs. At today’s prices, a day fishing a 30-footer with twin 300 hp outboards can cost you in the high hundreds of dollars, if not more than $1,000. But you can run offshore and troll all day in a boat such as the Robalo R222 (21 feet 6 inches LOA) or Sea Chaser 22 HFC (21 feet 9 inches LOA) with a single 200 or 250 hp outboard for a few hundred or less.

Lots of anglers trailer their boats 50 to 100 miles at the drop of a hat. Compare hauling a double- or triple-axle trailer behind a ¾- to 1-ton pickup versus a lighter, single- or double-axle trailer behind a half-ton pickup — and there’s even more economy.

Small-Boat Knowledge, Ability and Common Sense

There’s no federal regulation stating that “Thou shalt not take thy boat and go (offshore),” and in fact the Coast Guard only has authority in a few places to prevent boaters from going where they want, a Coast Guard spokesman said.

To go or not to go is not the question. Rather, focus on knowing your small boat, recognizing when to go or not, and with what gear and preparation.

Accident reports often retell scenarios where anglers in small boats perished before the Coast Guard could reach them. Often these are cases where knowing the boat and having the right equipment could have saved lives.

Experience often makes a major difference when it comes to safety. Anglers who know what the ocean can dish out and respect that power choose to err on the side of caution, and do not scrimp on safety gear.

Many who skipper such mighty mites far from land tend to be independent by nature. Still, many make it a point to travel offshore with another boat — known as “buddy boating”— when possible, small or large, which in effect offers a second engine.

Whether or not you have a buddy going with you, be sure to file a float plan before you leave. That can be as simple as making sure someone back on land knows when you plan to depart and return, and where — in general — you expect to fish.

The Right Boat: Moderate Vees and Hard Chines

What is the best small boat for offshore fishing? There are plenty of 17- to 22-footers for fishing bays, channels or flats. But if you plan to run offshore, you’ll need to investigate construction, quality and design.

That said, some bay boats such as the Pathfinder 2200 TE (22 feet 2 inches LOA) or Sea Born FX22 Bay Sport (21 foot 9 inches LOA) offer offshore fishing capability, as well as the ability to sneak into shallow inshore waters.

Still, there can be no doubt that with the specialized demands of offshore fishing, not all small hulls are created equal. When it comes to hull design, opinions vary — suggesting competent small hulls might come in more than one style.

A modified V rather than the deep V common on larger center consoles ranks as the top choice among experts looking for the optimal small planing hull for big water. While the steeper deadrise angle of up to 26 degrees at the transom offers the softest ride through waves, an angle in the 17- to 20-degree range proves more stable. That way you still get some damping effect from the V but also get some benefit of lateral stability.

Fuel capacity becomes a serious consideration for any small boat heading offshore. On the minus side: Many small boats have built-in tanks and some provide space only for portables. On the plus side: Light boats with small outboards can go all day on amazingly little fuel. Once you pick a boat, know its range and always allow for at least a 10 percent reserve.

A small but important point: marine battery placement . Batteries should ride forward, beneath the console, rather than at the transom, where they can get wet and add unnecessary weight.

One other essential element of small boat construction that becomes particularly important offshore is flotation. Positive flotation is required for certification by the National Marine Manufacturers Association in boats less than 20 feet, but the best hulls are fully filled with foam, and the reasons should be obvious. In an emergency, water can force air out of a hull or sides but not out of foam. A light hull gains little weight (always a factor) but considerable strength and rigidity from foam.

Water In; Water Out

A small boat easily takes on spray and, on rough days, some green water as well. That’s when scuppers become critical. (This assumes that no angler without a death wish would be offshore in a boat that’s not self-bailing.) The scuppers must be able to drain water as fast as it comes into the hull — if not, you’ll soon be playing submarine.

Transom height and design also play key roles in keeping water out of small boats. A small outboard-powered boat faces trouble fast once enough ocean water enters and runs to one side or the other in heavy seas. To help avoid that, look for small offshore boats with a full transom. A cut-out transom might work with a really good, generous motorwell. Worst case for offshore: a low, cut-out transom with no well. If that describes your boat, stick to the bay.

The Right Offshore Boating Equipment

No small boat, however seaworthy and stable, belongs offshore — ever — if it’s not properly equipped. The most major piece of equipment to consider is your outboard engine . A traditional preference among blue-water anglers has been twin or even triple outboards for safety. However, adding a second engine for the small boater might be either cost-, design- or weight-prohibitive. Fortunately, today’s outboard engines are more reliable than ever.

When feasible, a small auxiliary engine (aka kicker) is a great addition since it can get you home in a pinch — but, again, it may not be worth the additional weight on the stern of a 17- to 22-footer.

Additional key safety equipment to carry when fishing offshore includes the following:

Fixed-Mount VHF Radio — Fundamental and essential. Fixed-mount radios offer a range of 15 to 20 miles while handhelds only reach out 3 to 8 miles. All new VHFs, by law, come with Digital Selective Calling, which instantly sends a distress call to authorities anywhere in the world. Be sure that you set up your DSC calling feature before leaving port. Cell phones have become popular everywhere, including offshore, and offer some backup. But these can’t substitute for a VHF in a pinch since users might not find coverage in all areas offshore, and a phone call does not immediately summon on-water help. Mate your VHF radio to a tall (8-foot) VHF antenna for the range necessary when fishing offshore.

GPS Plotter/Sounder — As critical for navigation as for fishing. Separate units are fine, but a single unit (capable of showing both chart plotter and sounder reading on screen simultaneously) maximizes limited space on small consoles.

Compass — With a good nautical chart, a compass will keep you headed in the right direction if your GPS fails. Amazingly, some small boaters venture far offshore with neither radio nor compass, according to the Coast Guard.

Extra Battery — Any boat fishing offshore should have a dual-battery system with a selector switch. This allows you to keep one battery in reserve in case one goes dead.

Emergency Beacons — An EPIRB (Emergency Position Indicator Radio Beacon) and a PLB (Personal Locator Beacon) are good ideas for any boat fishing offshore. Once activated, an encoded digital message is received by satellites, and is then transmitted back to ground-based search and rescue authorities. This signal provides information to assist in the search. Assuming you have properly registered the EPIRB or PLB, it tells rescuers who you are, your boat type and size, where you are, and other important data, including emergency contact information. An EPIRB is registered to the boat and is usually mounted on deck, while a PLB is registered to an individual and is carried by that person.

Life Jackets — Going offshore without them would not only be illegal but insane. Make sure your jackets are Coast Guard rated for offshore use (Type I). It is a good idea to wear a life jacket at all times, especially if fishing alone.

Emergency Kit — including flare gun and flares, cyalume sticks and waterproof strobe lights. (I also make sure my boat’s running lights are in good working order.) Don’t forget a good flashlight and extra sunscreen.

Emergency Food and Water — At least a half-gallon of water, some granola bars and beef jerky or canned meat can get you through a day or two.

Anchor and Lots of Line — Even if you don’t anchor to fish, you might find an anchor valuable, and plenty of heavy line is a must if you need to be towed.

Sea Anchor — Space might preclude stowing a small sea anchor, but make sure you have at least a bucket or, in a pinch, even a spare life jacket. Most boats tend to drift stern-to — the worst situation in a building sea. Your odds of staying afloat when broken down and adrift go up by a big chunk if you can keep the bow into the waves, and any sort of sea anchor will help accomplish this.

Pick the Right Fishing Weather

Given a seaworthy boat, properly equipped, everything else comes down to common sense. And nowhere can the small boater better demonstrate that than by reading the weather before and during a trip.

Starting out the morning in a 3-foot sea is a mere irritant to a 30-footer, but for the mini-boater who has his head screwed on right, it means a canceled trip. Many mornings I’ve arisen to find the weather service data revised from the previous evening’s 5- to 10-knot wind forecast to one of 10 to 20 knots. Anyone hoping to go offshore in a 17- to 22-footer has to realize his fishing days will be limited.

Look for periods between frontal systems, particularly in fall, winter and spring when dead-calm days sneak in between blows. During the summer, high pressure systems often bring many successive days of calm weather, particularly in the morning. The run home in many regions might mean a moderate but manageable chop, thanks to afternoon sea breezes.

Just be sure you know the marine forecast for the day, before you head out. When the forecast calls for light breezes all day and into the night, boating anglers with small boats can usually venture forth into offshore ocean waters with peace of mind. Otherwise, the best rule of thumb is a simple one: When in doubt, don’t go out.

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Better Sailing

The Hull Truth: Sailors Forum Review (Is It Worth It?)

The Hull Truth is a free interactive forum. It is the first largest boating, sailing, fishing, all things marine life forum on the web. The forum cuts across everything there is to know about life on the sea, including buying and selling boats, fishing, marine electronics, and a host of other related topics. The hull truth website began on the 21st of February 2001 as a substitute to Saltwater Sportsman magazine internet forums. Most members of The Hull Truth originally were from Saltwater Sportsman.

The need for a substitute forum emerged when most forums on Saltwater Sportsman were getting withheld as the advertisers in the magazine did not like the effects of an open forum as they discussed issues affecting their boats or products. As a result, Wet & Wiley founded the hull truth website. Although the website has been sold to Internet Brands Inc., Wiley owns a few other sites, one of which is  reelboating.com.

Wet & Wiley released a statement on the website when Internet Brands Inc. acquired it.

A Statement The Hull Truth

“My Fellow THT’ers,

Since founding “The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Forum” in 2001, I have always made certain that whenever changes were made to the website, it was always for the betterment of the community. As the Hull Truth has grown to such astronomical levels over the past years, I have come to realize that the forum may not be operating to its full potential with only the resources of me and my wife at the helm. What began as a part-time commitment has grown to over 70 plus hours per week, with no relief in sight. Therefore, after 6 years, I feel what is now best for the forum is the professional assistance from a larger, fully staffed company.

Today I am announcing that THT has been acquired by Internet Brands, Inc., which operates a host of leading travel websites such as Cruisemates.com, Vamoose.com, and Wikitravel.org.

With this acquisition, THT should be much better staffed to provide the services a large online community requires, from marketing and accounting to very capable technical and development teams….”

The opinions and comments expressed on the forum are for those who enjoy boating, fishing, and not compulsorily that of sponsors and advertisers or the Forum Director. On this forum, if you are a newbie researching for a new boat — or have been a captain for many years, you will find a plethora of direct information from boat owners across the world.

The Hull Truth Policies

The forum has a strict policy of guideline adherence. Here are a few guidelines advised to follow when on the forum. The guidelines are said to be incomplete, a work in progress, and may be updated or changed without notice.

Firstly, posting as a new member on the forum. It is advisable to introduce yourself in your initial post, detailing your current boating situation or the type of boating information you are looking for.

Also, members of the forum are only allowed to post their boating and fishing items for sale in the Trading-Dock forum. Posting any sales items outside of the Trading-Dock forum is highly prohibited, and any of such posts seen will be deleted. Dealers/Brokers may not sell their items on the Trading-Dock unless they are paid sponsors of The Hull Truth.

Secondly, as a new member posting offsite web links is not a good practice. If you may post a link to another site apart from The Hull truth, the link has to answer a question. It must not promote or advertise any website. Any post containing links posted for the sole purpose of advertising or promoting a website will be removed. However, if you wish to advertise a personal boating-related website link, contact The Hull Truth Webmaster for instructions.

Lastly, The Hull Truth does not endorse advertisers. Organizations or individuals are only at liberty to do so, providing that they pay. The forum is a private bulletin board; hence, It reserves the right to refuse advertisement for any purpose. THT also especially encourages its users to form their verdict regarding any products or advertisement stated.

You have to have a registered account on the forum in order to post messages. You enter your preferred username, email address, and required fields list on the signup page. Your username could be a nickname, as it will be visible on the forum. It is worthy to note that usernames will contain alphanumeric keys only, no special characters or punctuations. You will have a permanent username; it will be unchangeable. You can subscribe to a forum to keep track of different threads and forums that you are interested in.

You are at liberty to join any forum of your choice, provided that you follow the current guidelines stated above and the future ones that may follow when you visit the website.

There is the Boating Forum, where topics ranging from boats, engines, and other marine-related items are talked about.

The Trucks & Trailers; Where boaters discuss trucks and trailers.

Industry News; which talks about what’s new in the boating world with a host of other advertisements.

Marine Electronics Forum; here, boaters discuss Radar, GPS, etc. The rest of the forums include SportFishing and Charters Forum, Boating How-To’s: The Kerno Memorial Forum, Boating and Boat Show Photos, lastly, the Dockside Chat.

There is a Trading Dock platform that allows you to browse, buy or sell. But to sell, you have to be a registered member of the Captain’s club or Admiral’s club. The Trading Dock section also has forums that sell different commodities. This includes Boats, Trucks & Trailers, Parts– Marine parts, Fishing, and Miscellaneous Items, etc.

Regional boating and fishing group that connects American boat lovers from different regions in the States. The forums are divided into regions in the United States. Including Northeast, Great Lakes, West Coast, Gulf Coast, etc.

The website also has a Products and Services section with forums of different manufacturers of Marine Products. There is an electronics section divided into four forums discussing the different types of marine electronics available and a section for insurance brokers.

Finally, a bonus section with four forums that include the Sports Forum; talking about the different sports popular in American culture. The Food and Beverage forum; discussing and sharing favorite recipes. SCUBA, Snorkel & Spearfishing Forum; Activities related to diving which fishermen and boat owners on the website enjoy. Kayaking, Skiing & Surfing; More water sport activities boards find interesting.

Reviews go a long way when it comes to publicizing a product. Bad or good reviews affect how certain products fair in the market. So, if you are looking for reviews of any and every kind of boat or any sea life activity available, it is listed on this website. The website helps new boat owners make informed decisions on what to get and look out for in the marine market. The hull truth website boasts of over three hundred and fifty-nine thousand (359,000) members as of 2021. The members grow by the day. The website is known to be apolitical, and discussions on politics are banned from it.

Next time you are looking out for a specific boat, spare parts, or water sporting activity you need more insight on, The Hull Truth is of the best websites loaded with information concerning marine topics to check out.

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

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Dozens of Rohingya refugees rescued from overturned boat in Indian Ocean

Soaked survivors clung to hull overnight before being taken to safety by Indonesian rescue team

Dozens of Rohingya refugees have been rescued from the Indian Ocean off the coast of Indonesia after spending the night balanced on the hull of their overturned boat.

Seventy-five people were pulled from the stricken vessel, which was spotted on Thursday by an Indonesian search and rescue ship.

Survivors said the boat had capsized on Wednesday. Men, women and children, weak and soaked from the night’s rain, wept as the rescue operation got under way and they were taken onboard a rubber dinghy to the rescue boat.

There were contradictory reports about whether anyone had died, with survivors saying many who had been onboard when their boat left Bangladesh were still unaccounted for, but authorities said everyone had been rescued.

Samira, 17, who was among the refugees from the Kutupalong camp in Bangladesh, who had been travelling to Malaysia, said there had been 146 people onboard, raising the prospect that 71 could be missing at sea.

She said the boat began foundering three days previously and capsized on Wednesday, adding that her nephew was among those unaccounted for. “All of us are very sad,” she said. “We are very hungry and weak.”

When fishing vessels reached the scene on Wednesday, desperate refugees clambered on to one of the boats, overloading it and causing it also to capsize. It was not immediately clear what happened to its crew.

After Indonesian authorities were informed by the fishers about the refugees’ plight, an official search and rescue team set off from Banda Aceh city on Wednesday evening. They reached the area of the accident early the next morning and initially could not find the capsized boat.

When they came upon it at midday, they found the refugees on its hull. They rescued 42 men, 18 women and nine children and took some to a temporary shelter in the Aceh Besar district and others to a local hospital.

Amiruddin, a tribal fishing community leader in Aceh Barat district, said those rescued indicated that the boat was sailing east when it started leaking and strong currents pushed it toward the west of Aceh.

About 740,000 Rohingya had earlier fled to Bangladesh to escape a brutal counterinsurgency campaign by security forces in their homeland of Myanmar.

However, thousands have since been trying to flee Bangladesh’s overcrowded camps for neighbouring countries, with Indonesia experiencing an increase in refugees since November, which prompted it to call on the international community for help. Some Rohingya arriving in Aceh face hostility from fellow Muslims .

Indonesia, like Thailand and Malaysia, is not a signatory to the 1951 UN refugee convention outlining refugees’ legal protections, and so is not obliged to accept refugees. However, these countries have so far provided temporary shelter to refugees in distress.

Last year, nearly 4,500 Rohingya, two-thirds of them women and children, fled Myanmar and the refugee camps of neighbouring Bangladesh by boat, the UN refugee agency reported. Of those, 569 died or went missing while crossing the Bay of Bengal and Andaman Sea, the highest death toll since 2014.

Returning safely to Myanmar is virtually impossible because the military that attacked them overthrew Myanmar’s democratically elected government in 2021. No country has offered the Rohingya any large-scale resettlement opportunities.

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