Better Sailing

How to Repair Sails On Your Sailboat

How to Repair Sails On Your Sailboat

Even if you try to avoid any sail damage to your sailboat, there will be a time, unfortunately, when they get damaged at sea. So, what happens in the event of sail damage? Of course, the fact is that you’ll have to repair them while at sea and then quickly do a damage assessment. For that, you will probably need someone to lend you a hand and a flat surface to place the sail open. But before we get to the details on how to DIY repair a sail tear on your sailboat remember to be prepared for any unexpected scenario. In other words, having the right tools and supplies onboard gives you a huge advantage in dealing with the problem. Some of the basic tools include a waxed twine, a selection of sail needles, sharp scissors, spare webbing, and a sticky-back Dacron. Let’s move on and see the details!

Stitching your Sails

It is of great importance for a sailor to be able to stitch a sail by hand. If you know how to do this, it’s really practical in case of a chafe or of any other torn seams. The process is really simple. Firstly, make one pass to stitch on one set of diagonals as well as to the opposite direction and then fill in the other set. This can be applied in case you are following an existing zigzag stitch. Moreover, the sailor’s palm will facilitate you in order to force the needle through the fabric, and pliers will help you pull the needle through it. Remember to melt the ends of each knot with a lighter to prevent any loosening, as well as try to make tight stitches to ensure a strong repair. Buy a Sail Repair Kit From Amazon

Patch Repairs

For repairs that are not on a seam, a patch fix is necessary. You can use a Dacron patch for almost everything except spinnakers. Dacron can even stick to many laminate sails on the film side, but not on some resin-based and silicone-covered sails. In addition, dacron tapes come in different forms of thickness rolls and you can also buy larger sheets. Naturally, sails are not flat and they’re made up of panels that create depth. However, due to its design, when the surface you lay it on is flat it might pose you a problem. So do some temporary tucks and folds in the cloth, but away from the rip, and try to keep it flat. So, be patient and follow the below-mentioned procedure:

  • The space you’re going to “work” is essential. Find a dry and safe place with a flat surface like below the saloon table or even on a chopping board.
  • Always clean your fabric of salt with a freshwater rinse. Then allow a few moments for the fabric to dry. Continue by removing any residues with rubbing alcohol. This tip facilitates the drying process, as the alcohol evaporates.
  • Most of the time, some sails (mostly white), tear in lines. For that reason, they shouldn’t be pulled too close together or overlap each other. Otherwise, their shape will change, and thus loading will be created. In case the tear has gone off in different directions repair the longest first.

>>Also Read: Best Sail Repair Tape

Seam Repairs

In order to make sure that no seams are starting to appear, try to check your sails daily. It’s not particularly hard for a seam to be unstitched, right in the middle of your voyage. So, if you see any loose stitching, put the sail down immediately, if possible, in order to get it fixed. Stitching a seam back together is a task that requires some time and attention. However, it’s much easier than dealing with ripped fabric. When you stitch seam you just work your way methodically back through all the holes. Try finding a comfy place on deck to work because it might be difficult to move a large sail down below. And remember that “a stitch in time saves nine”!

Patch and Glue

Sail damage can be also caused by a tear to the sun protection on roller-furling headsails. If that happens don’t put new holes in your sail in order to stitch up the tear. This will be really time consuming. Use instead some sticky-back which definitely is an efficient and fast solution. Although you have to take the sail down and put it back up to do that, sticky-back is the answer to this problem.

The first step is to cut the corners of the patch round in order to keep them from peeling off the sail. Then clean the whole area from the repair with acetone, and once the patch is ready, rub from the center to the edge with a scissor handle in order to make sure that it’s totally adhered. Furthermore, sticky-back patches work efficiently for small holes in the actual fabric of the sail. If any holes appear in the fabric then use patches on both sides of the sail, an inch or two larger than the rip in all directions. Keep in mind to slightly counterbalance the two patches so that the load won’t spread out around the repair. Also, take with you ripstop sticky-back to match the colors on any downwind sails, as well as small, pre-cut round patches, which can be practical for small holes in nylon sails.

A lot of spinnakers are no longer stitched and are put together just with tape, so if you need to make a repair it’s a particularly easy task. For most repairs a sticky back spinnaker repair tape is fine. Try not to change the panel’s shape and don’t use too much cloth for the patch. This way you’ll avoid generating unnecessary loads and stress lines. Instead, use the same amount of cloth for the patch so it moves and stretches simultaneously. Also, in case that a tear passes through the panels, repair one panel at a time and not all together. This way each panel is going to move and stretch as it was designed to.

One of the things that need occasional repairs on your sails is fabric. Fabric is one of the most vulnerable parts of your sails. Most of the time, when a sailboat uses its slab reefing it will subsequently wear out the webbing attachments to the tack rings. Therefore a failure of the webbing connection to the mainsail luff slides will be caused. As I’ve mentioned before, the most practical and easy solution to this is to be equipped with twine, a webbing, a needle, and a sailor’s palm . In case you don’t have the correct size of webbing, then Spectra cord can attach a slide fairly well.

These repairs are permanent and won’t take you more than an hour. Another sail damage for many sailboats with full-length battens might be caused by the connection point between the batten and the luff track on the mast. The best thing to do if that happens is to apply West System epoxy along with 3M adhesive sealant 5200 fast cure . This will untie your hands and is also an easy task to perform.

Common Damage Areas

  • Spinnakers : Anything sharp can damage the spinnakers. Especially near the boom, so check that everything is taped up. Also, spinnakers tend to get caught between the shrouds and above the spreaders so consider closing off this gap with a bungee.
  • Spreader and Rig Chafe : When you’re sailing downwind the mainsail spends a lot of time relaxing on the rig. Keep in mind to fill your spreaders with pipe insulation. Moreover, consider having extra reinforcement patches for the spreaders on the batten pockets and at each reef point.
  • Spreader Ends : Always reinforce the sail and put smooth cages around protrusions. In addition, wrap foam around your spreader caps on long voyages.
  • Bottom of the Headsail : Try to lower the halyard enough in order to reach the damaged section. Then reinforce with a sail repair tape . In case the conditions don’t favor you to do so, keep a wrap in the sail to take the pressure off the damage.

Summary – How to Repair the Sails

All this is much easier if your sails aren’t damaged in the first place. But, I know for a fact that sometimes you can’t prevent it from happening. In any case, always be alert to what is going on with the rags. Moreover, always carry a sail repair kit (link to Amazon) on board especially for long-distance cruising. Before leaving for any long trip have also a sailmaker service to check your sails for any weak points. Last but not least, in case that your sails are damaged at sea reinforce any loose stitching immediately and tape both sides of repairs to ensure extra strength.

Peter

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

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sailboat repair

Sail Repair What to Do and How to Do It

Most sailors approach sail repair with the same confident enthusiasm with which they might attempt brain surgery. This sense of foreboding often benefits die saibnaker (who, as a result, gets a lot of business), but not the offshore cruiser whose self-sufficiency in every aspect of maintaining his/her vessel and its attendant gear is vitally important.

There's a mystique surrounding sails — perhaps since their operating principle (turned 90 degrees) consists of the same magic that keeps airplanes in the sky. However, fixing sails really is straightforward — trust me.

The first step in sail repair is assessment: ascertaining just what needs fixing — and in some cases if the sail is worth putting time and materials into.

The initial clue regarding a sail's condition is its age. Dacron sailcloth will last approximately 8-10 years (longer if a sail's use is seasonal or infrequent). The amount of abuse and exposure to light a sail endures determines its useful life. Dacron has two major enemies: ultraviolet deterioration and chafe. The mo« effective maintenance routine for dacron is to cover it when it's not in use and to protect it from wear against spreaders, spars, running and standing rigging, pulpits, cotter keys, saikrack fittings, and hardware integral to the sail itself. A less obvious form of chafe is dirt and salt in the weave of the cloth — keeping a sail clean extends its life. Remember, flogging a sail may resuk in severe wear and tear, not to mention a resounding racket that assures unwanted attention on the helmsperson or sheet trimmer.

The assessment procedure is a thorough inspection which both local and coastal cruisers should do annually and offshore cruisers should conduct prior to each passage. The process begins with laying the sail out full on a clean, fiat surface. Location-wise, a sail loft floor is the obvious first choice. However, I've used domestic and foreign airplane hangars, runways, gymnasiums, bams, ballrooms, tennis courts, parking lots, pool halls, tropical resort lawns and golf courses to name a few. Be creative and improvise — you'll probably have to during the rest of the repair process!

. ' •■■vi|f'-'.-l ■• .1 '". c ''I 'i^V-iii -

,.. a flogging Mil, ma? resttfc ' in severe wear ana tear, not to mention a-j re so un di n g racket.. i •• '::' fe ■

When spreading the sail, make sure reinforcing patches at head, tack and clew, batten pockets and reef points are "up" for viewing. Remove sheets, battens and shackles. The sail is now ready for inspection.

.Use the following "laundry list" to assess your sail. Be sure to take careful notes and mark the sail with pencil so you can find the areas that need attention later.

1. Look for broken stitches in the head reinforcing patch.

2. Examine the headboard or head ring for elongation or deterioration.

3. Check the sailcloth, luff tape and/or boltrope around the headboard for wear.

4. Make sure slides in or around the headboard are secured well and that their method of attachment isn't chafing the headboard, sailcloth, or bail of the slide.

There was an English sailor who neglected the above item and, as a result, provided gainful sail repair employment for me while I was waylaid in Nassau. The slide at the head — where loading is the greatest — chafed through its seizing and departed from his mainsail after a transAtlantic passage. While cruising in the Bahamas, a gale in the "Tongue of the Ocean" blew up and the mainsail slide two feet down the luff from the headboard (not meant to take the load without a slide in the headboard above it) tore out. So did die grommet it was secured to. Almost immediately, moat of the slides and grommets below it yanked out and the boltrope was liberated from the mainsails leading edge as well. Had this mainsail been properly made with two slides at the head, handsewn rinp instead of grommets along the luff for the luff slides to be secured to, and a boltrope handsewn around the head and along the leech the length of the head reinforcing patch (see illus. 1) this probably wouldn't have happened. That's a construction story, not a repair story, however. Back to our list.

5. Check for chafe and broken stitches in the luff tape and boltrope both between and under each luff slide, working your way down the luff towards the tack.

6. Make sure each slide on the luff is in good condition, is seized securely to its ring or grommet, and that the seizing is not wearing the sail or slide.

Mail Google Com Mail 223

C. Mainsail headboard with internal boltrope (production standard).

D. "Quick and dirty" headboard installation — no boltrope

E. Head of baaenless mainsail — note head ring instead of headboard.

IBus: 1: Construction options for the heads of mainsails.

7. Check that each grommet or handaewn ring on the luff which the slide is seized to is not corroded or pulling out.

8. Examine the reef reinforcing patch for broken stitches.

9. Make sure the reef tack ring isn't corroded, elongated or coming out of the tack reinforcing patch.

10. Examine the bokrope or luff tape for chafe where the reefing tackle might abrade when it's engaged.

11 Observe the tack reinforcing patch for broken stitches.

12. Make sure the tack ring is in good condition and securely in place.

13. Note if there is chafe on the ckxh, boltrope or leather around the tack ring.

14. Proceed along the foot looking for broken stitches and chafe in the dacron tape or boltrope.

15. If there are slides on the foot of the sail, make sure they are in good condition and properly fastened to the sail.

16. Make sure grommets or rings along the foot which slides are attached to aren't corroded or pulling out.

17. Monitor clew patch for broken stitches.

18. Note chafe in the sailcloth, boltrope or leathers around the dew ring.

19. Make certain clew ring is in good condition and securely in place.

20. Observe the entire leech, noting broken stitches in the leech hem.

21. See if the leech line inside the leech hem is chafing through the hem.

22. Ensure that the leech line cleat is in operable condition.

23. Check to see if the leech line works (i.e. tightens the leech when pulled).

24. Examine stitches in the reef reinforcing patches on the leech.

25. Survey the condition of the sailcloth around reinforcing patches.

The importance of the above item became all too clear to me while aboard a schooner in the Bahamas. A controlled jibe shockingly resulted in the sail splitting from leech to luff. It was blowing hard and we were reefed. The tear began in the sailcloth directly above the reef reinforcing patch and continued lightning-bolt style, 4-6" up to the seam above the reinforcing patch and shot across the entire width of the sail in seconds.

Almost immediately, most of the slides • and grommets below it yanked out and the boltrope was liberated from the mainsail's leading edge as well. -r'.

Had we observed the weakened sailcloth surrounding the reef reinforcing patch and added a larger "cover patch" over the original reinforcing, this disabling circumstance could have been avoided. Repairing the sail was no minor feat and required usurping loft space, time and took from the British America's Cup Lionhart syndicate's boatyard complex. I still consider this a diplomatic miracle. The logistics of coming an<l going with a 500 square foot mainsail in pieces by overloaded dinghy to avoid being in the loft when the syndicate needed it is a story in itself — but back to sail assessment...

26. Look for chafe around the reef ring that might be caused by reefing tackle.

27. Observe condition of the reef ring.

28. Carefully monitor batten pockets for chafe or holes on both sides of the sail.

29. Having arrived back at the head, walk or crawl along each seam looking for broken stitches.

30. Check each panel for tears.

31. Make sure the stitches that hold reef point reinforcements in place are in good order.

32. Make sure reef point rings or grommets aren't corroded or pulling out.

33. Congratulate yourself! You've just completed a thorough inspection of your sail; it's not often in life that we confront thinjp far bigger than ourselves.

A. Outer square is the seui-to line with strike-ups. Inner square is the cut line (the tear will be cut out of the sad doth along the cut-lines)

sailboat repair

B. The patch in place may be sewn by hand (as shown) or zig-zag machine.

Illustration 2: T.V. screen patch.

Htadsai! inspection is a similar process: examine comers, edges, and body of the sail for broken stitches, chafe, or tears and go over hardware (hanks, grommets or nn^) for wear. In both cases, once problems are determined, repairs and/or reinforcements may be made. Now that we've covered assessing the condition of the sail, let's take a look at dealing with the weaknesses we've uncovered.

Holes in the body of the sail may be repaired using the "TV screen" patch.

Broken stitches can be repaired with dacron twine or thread either by hand or using a zigzag machine. The best, although not the fastest or most practical, method is to follow the old needle holes. The proper handsewing stitch will be discussed in another installment of "Confession»,'' but it's shown in the handsewn T.V. screen" patch illustration (see illus. 2). V-69 dacron thread with a 110 needle or V-346 or 3-ply dacron waxed twine with a #16 or #18 needle are appropriate for restitching. with machine or by hand respectively. Begin by sewing on top of 2-3" of the remaining

"good" stitches. Continue over the broken stitches and finish 2-3" into the "good" stitches on the other side of the worn area.

Holes in the body of the sail may be repaired using the 'T.V. screen" patch. Measure the six of the hole or tear and cut out a piece of dacron of the same weight as the sail. The patch should be square or rectangular in shape and 1-1 1/2" larger than the hole or tear on all four sides. Tne larger the hole, the more important* V becomes that the weave of the patch line up with the weave of the sailcloth underneath it. In this case, youU want to match the "grain" of the patch with the sail before cutting the patch to size. It's best to cut dacron with a "hot" gun or knife which both cuts and seals at once, preventing cloth from unraveling at its raw edges.

Once the patch is made and the sail is lying flat, hold the patch in place with pushpins and carefully draw around it. A sailmaker has two aids to sewing navigation — the "sew-to" line and "strike-ups." The sew-to line is the one that the patch will be sewn along — the one drawn around the patch while it is pushpinned in place. Strike-up* are short marks (1/4-1/2") made perpendicular to the sew-to line to ensure that the patch is sewn in evenly. By matching the strike-ups as one sews along the sew-co line it's assured that the patch will be stitched in the desired location. But, we're a little ahead of ourselves.

Once sew-to lines and strike-ups are drawn around the patch, remove the pushpins and patch from the sail. Neatly cut (preferably with a hot gun or hot knife) a rectangular or square hole 1-1 1/2" inside and parallel to the sew-to line. The patch can be sewn to the sail by machine or hand. When this is complete, the sail is sewn to the patch (see illus. 2). The result is a neat patch resembling a T.V. screen. I've often wondered what sailmakers pre-1940's called this type of repair. By the way, the rule about repairing holes is: if you can't stick a pencil through it, don't fix it.

If ultraviolet rot is the cause of holes or tears, you'd better order a new sail.

If a seam has come apart, use pushpins to align panels as closely as possible to their original position. Draw a sew-to line and strike-ups (you can use the original ones it they're still visible) and stitch the seam back together by hand or machine.

Chafe is usually the culprit in the above cases of broken stitches, tears, or opened seams — so find the cause of it. Use rigging

Continue reading here: Rig Maintenance

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Readers' Questions

How to fix a deteriorated head sail?
Inspect the sail thoroughly for any rips, tears, or holes. If you find any, you will need to patch them with a sail repair kit or a professional sailmaker. If the sail is severely deteriorated, you may need to replace it. Consider the cost and benefits of replacement compared to repairing the sail. If the sail is not severely deteriorated, you can try to clean the sail by washing it with mild soap and water. Rinse the sail thoroughly and allow it to dry. Once the sail is dry, inspect it for signs of UV damage. If the sail has been exposed to the sun for an extended period of time, it may have faded or yellowed. If this is the case, you can use UV protection sprays to help slow the degradation of the sail. If you decide to repair the sail instead of replacing it, use a needle and thread to stitch repairs to the sail. Make sure to use a strong thread that is the same color as the sail material. If you are still having difficulty keeping your sail in good condition, consider using a sail cover when not in use to help protect it from UV damage and dirt.

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Sailboat Deck Repair Guide...

Sailboat deck repair guide.

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A sailboat is only as good as two things: the people sailing it, and the materials keeping it afloat. And though you may be an expert navigator and sailor, sometimes, the latter can disappoint you. That’s when it’s time to dust off the work gloves and consider handling some light repairs yourself. But how can you do a sailboat deck repair your own—and is it worth the extra time and labor? Here are a few tips for handling your sailboat deck and keeping it in tip-top shape.

Know Your Sailboat Deck—And How to Repair It

It starts with a basic understanding of your sailboat deck. According to Sail Magazine , many “decks are cored with end-grain balsa or plywood with a fiberglass laminate on each side.” If this is the case for you, you might notice that moisture can work its way into the core of the deck, which tends to rot the quality of the wood over time.

When the plywood core of the deck goes bad, it will generally be better to replace this plywood rather than work around the issues. However, try to get a second opinion before you start tearing out old decking. For example, you might be able to use:

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Liquid LifeSeal® Sealant 5.2 fl. oz. Clear

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Stainless Steel Cleaner 16 fl. oz.

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Step-by-Step Deck Core Repair

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Last month we looked at the effectiveness of injecting resin to repair damaged core sections (see “ Can Glue Injection Fix Rotten Core ,” PS July 2018. This month we’ll review the more robust repair option—replacing the bad core.

The factory skimped on resin when laying up the internal skin of the anchor locker hatch on our Corsair F-24 test boat. The goal was to save weight, but the result was hundreds of pinholes, which over the course of thousands of warming and cooling cycles, sucked in a substantial volume of humid anchor locker air. The core became damp, bacteria moved in, and the balsa decayed to the consistency of garden mulch. Small wonder the hatch bent noticeably under foot.

Fortunately, the skins had not yet cracked. The other positive was that the hatch could be taken home for renovation, and that makes any job easier.

When repairing deck core, work can proceed from either the interior side or exterior side. Working from the exterior means your repair will need to match surrounding skin, whereas interior work is usually hidden from view.

For deck repairs, working from the outside means that gravity is on your side. The old core doesn’t land on your face as you remove it, and bonding in new core material is straightforward.

Working from the inside requires removing interior liners and modifying your laminating technique. Larger jobs tend to favor working from above, while small jobs go faster from inside. It all depends on geometry. In our case, we just flipped the cover over.

We cut away the skin using delicate, shallow cuts with an angle grinder. A vibrating multi-tool with a carbide blade is handy for small areas. The skin was then peeled back using a dry wall knife and a pair of pliers.

If it is undamaged and you are working from the top side, save this for later reinstallation. It will preserve the non-skid pattern and smooth curvature in the corners. Even when you are careful, thin skins are often destroyed during removal process, which means you’ll have to laminate a new one—something to consider when deciding which side to work from.

Whichever method you choose, be sure to wear gloves while laminating. Change the gloves every 10 minutes or whenever they begin to get sticky; if glass fibers are sticking to your fingers, you need new gloves. Likewise, have a stack of disposable brushes and polyethylene spreaders available.

Step-by-Step Deck Core Repair

Cleaning Out Old Core

Some of the old core will fall out, bringing comfort that you are doing the right thing. Some will come out with a scraper. We’ve found a wire cup brush, in either a cordless drill or angle grinder, makes fast work, with less risk of cutting into the second skin than with vigorous use of a scraper or chisel.

You don’t need to remove undamaged core; when it gets really difficult to remove, you’re probably done. We left some core, after determining that it was like new and that we couldn’t remove it without damaging the skin. Allow the panel to dry.

Step-by-Step Deck Core Repair

1. A cutting wheel was used to trim the outer laminate to access the core.

Step-by-Step Deck Core Repair

Bonding New Core

You can use either polyester or epoxy resin (see Inside PS blog post “ Epoxy Versus Polyester Resin ”). If you’ve worked with neither before, practice on some sample laminates.

Some sections could be solid glass instead of core. Lay those areas up with cloth or possibly Coosa Bluewater 26 (see “ The Multipurpose Core ,” PS February 2020). For cored areas, coat the sections of replacement core with resin thickened with colloidal silica to a peanut butter consistency. Press into place with a grooved laminating roller.

Use lightweight cores for overhead panels. Plywood is not recommended. Marine core is typically scored with kerfs and attached to a scrim backing so that it can follow curves. If the curve is concave, the kerfs will open the blind side, so be certain to apply enough thickened resin to fill these kerfs as they open.

There is no reason to apply core in large sections, since it is scored anyway. Small sections, generally not much bigger than 6 inches square, are easier to manipulate. Cut smaller pieces to fill the larger gaps, and then spread thickened resin over the entire area using a flexible spatula, forcing it into the remaining hair line cracks. Allow to cure.

Use 60-80 grit on an orbital sander (or a disk grinder with a very light touch) to sand the new core smooth. Even if you matched the original core thickness, there will be irregularities resulting from bumps of old resin and angles from the core.

Laminate a replacement skin, matching the original schedule. Several layers of 17-ounce biaxial cloth with ¾-ounce mat attached (1708), followed by a single layer of 6-ounce finish cloth is common on cruising boats. Smaller boats may use only a few layers of 6-ounce finish cloth. Bevel the core edges to a 10:1 taper.

From the Inside

If you are working from the inside on an overhead panel, lay the cloth on a plastic disposable work surface and pre-saturate the fiberglass cloth, using a squeegee and roller, before placing on the ceiling. Some like to do this on a bench outside the boat and carry the sections in on waxed paper.

Don’t attempt to saturate the cloth directly on the surface; the resin will drip all over you and the glass will keep falling off.

Rub the pre-wetted laminate down firmly with gloved hands and a roller until it begins to cure. If applying more than a few layers overhead, allow the initial layers to gel. This prevents the whole mess from falling off in a sticky pile. Allow to cure.

Use vinegar to wipe surrounding areas that were not covered with drop cloths, being careful not to get any on the bond areas.

From the Outside

If you are reusing the old deck skin, carefully grind the core to fit the original skin, test fitting frequently. You will add thickened resin to bond and fill low areas, but there can’t be any high spots and it is best if the fit is very close.

Unlike a new skin, you won’t be able to roll it in for a perfect bond. This is why we dislike this method other than for very small sections. Press the skin in place, weight it down it with sand bags, and hope for the best.

Finishing and Cleanup

If you are working from the inside, all that remains is to grind it reasonably smooth and replace the liner or paint to match. If you worked from the outside, bevel the joints 10:1 with a hand grinder, add fiberglass tape to match the original thickness, and finish with gel coat or paint.

Clean your tools with vinegar. As long as the cure is not too far alone, vinegar stops the chemical reaction and eliminates the stickiness, allowing clean-up with soap, water, and a brush.

PS Technical Editor Drew Frye is the author of “ Circumnavigating the Delmarva—a Guide for the Shoal Draft Sailor ,” available for Kindle through Amazon.

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Injectadeck has very specific instructions, it looks like they used it like Git’Rot’ against wet wood? That was not a proper demonstration of the process of injectadeck. I have been using it for three years on several boats. The aforementioned product doesn’t work at all nothing can soak into wet wood or stick to its slime. Injectadeck adheres fiberglass layers together very well, displaces water, hardens in a void.

(Inject-a-Deck was reviewed in “Can Glue Injection Fix a Rotten Core,” July 2020)

Inject-a-Deck can work. There is no question it can firm up a mushy deck and that it is much easier to use than other methods. But we tested it a number of times, in several ways (wet and dry) and concluded that other products were stronger and better suited limited repairs and areas where great strength was required. In fact, we warmed up to the idea that injecting epoxy and Git-Rot is probably not the best method for larger areas of extensive damamge or rot, that the repair materials does not need to be strong like epoxy, only as strong as the original core, and that foaming products, including the original Gorilla Glue, have considerable advantages.

The best repair method is core replacement, but even that method must be approached circumspectly. We recently reviewed a “professional” repair to a PS test boat and found that the contractor had made critical errors, resulting in a repair that was far weaker than what he started with. He hid his tracks well enough that any surveyor could miss the hidden damamge. The result was a sudden failure of the core repair underway. * He reused the original skins by gluing and fairing the edges together, without scarfing in reinforcing lamination. Invisible joints that were very weak. * Cut through critical carbon fiber reinforcements buried within the laminate and did not replaced them. You never know what is inside the deck, and it apparently did not concern him when he got black sawdust, or when he pealed the deck up and saw the carbon plate.

So injecting foam, such as Inject-a-Deck can fall within the “do no harm” philosophy. You won’t hurt anything. It would have been much better, in this case, if the contractor had just injected foam, rather than cut through good laminate he was not committed to properly replacing. Sometimes you don’t know what you are getting into.

Bacteria do not cause core decay. The statement: “The core became damp, bacteria moved in, and the balsa decayed to the consistency of garden mulch.” is misleading because 1) the damage is caused by fungi, not bacteria, and 2) the fungal spores have inhabited the balsa ever since it was changed from being a tree to being small blocks. The spores are patiently waiting for the substrate to become damp to the degree that they can become active.

Good point on the fungi, although that is only true to a point. Rot results from a mixed community of bacteria and fungi, the fungi being more active in the presence of oxygen and during the initiation of rot, and the bacteria becoming more prevalent and active in anaerobic conditions (prevalent in cores) and as the core gradually becomes mulch. But yes, most of the damage is caused by fungi. I took too much literary license, and I knew better. In the end… wood rots. The distinction is mostly relevant when choosing a rot-preventative.

A good read. I’ve done everything from below with Vinylester resin. Of course, you need an excellent full facemask with the right cartridges. Good to know about the “professional” repair mentioned in the above comment. I’ve been “peg boarding” from the inside to dry out the core which did dry quite well with heat lamps (and a temperature gun to not get over 110 degrees). However, if the fiberglass flexed when pushing the drill to drill the hole, I just peeled that area and replaced the core. This winter I will work on the doghouse and this method of looking for some flex won’t work since the interior doghouse glass is thicker. Not sure what I will do.

The softening temperature of vinyl cores is about 190F and epoxy, gelcoat, and vinylester are are a bit higher than that. I would think 150F would be a safe temperature for drying core. I’m sure decks pass 110F in the sun all the time!

Drew I agree, and it’s good to know what you just wrote. And to your point on a hot sunny day in late August here in RI, in the afternoon, the deck was 116F on my temp. gun. The boat I’m working on came from Lake Lanier, Georgia, I’m sure it hit 110 air temp…

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Solar Frame & Arch Fabrication

We utilize the latest state of the art solar panels and build custom frames in house out of light weight marine grade bright anodized aluminium. (Stainless steel frame fabrication is also available if requested). Our goal is to maximize your vessel’s solar potential whilst maintaining minimalist concepts to create a beautiful, and highly functional end product.

Custom Frames Arches

Rigging Inspections & Consultations

The Yacht Rigger provides comprehensive rigging inspections on all masts to vessels located within our service area. We inspect all running and standing rigging. All rigging termination points are visually inspected. Sheave pins and sheaves inspected, spreaders, furler or headsail foils, and all gooseneck fittings. Electrical wiring is inspected for chafe/corrosion.

We also check all light fittings, blocks, cars, tracks, clutches, winches and any other hardware. A complete cleaning of all rigging ends, pins, and cars can be added if the mast is going into storage. We provide a detailed report of our findings, including suggestions for any additional parts and work required.

At the Yacht Rigger we also offer a consultation service designed to assist you with both troubleshooting as well as with selection of any new rigging parts, from winches or furling gear, to a new mast, no job is too big or too small. Please visit our Contact Us page and get in touch so that we can assist you!

HVAC (heat, ventilation, air conditioning) systems, helps to control the climate on your boat allowing you and your crew to enjoy the time on board all year long. Not only control the temperature on cold winters or hot summers, they also control the humidity levels, making the living area feel more comfortable and helping to keep the boat dry, increasing the life of electronics, fabrics, headliners, etc. reducing mold growth and other moisture related problems.

Investing in a new installation or upgrade of an existing one will extend your boating season and increase the value of your boat.

Winch Servicing

Servicing your winches regularly not only improves their longevity, but also greatly improves performance. Correctly cleaned and lubricated winches will operate faster, and require less force when grinding.

We can service all of your winches professionally, on site, in a matter of a few hours. We carry parts for most major brands and can source parts for almost any winch out there today.

Our riggers are highly competent splicers, capable of splicing any line in a given application. From basic polyamide docklines, to covered Vectran, we can assist you in selecting the correct line for the correct application. Be it a weight saving halyard for a race boat, or a topping lift for a cruiser, look no further than TYR.

Hardware Installation

At TYR we can supply all hardware relating to your mast and deck, for all brands of masts. Our team of expert riggers will guide you through getting the right equipment for your boat.

We supply many top of the line models of headsail furlers, including Selden Furlex and Harken. TYR can also provide servicing and spare parts for existing systems to ensure efficiency and reliability.

We supply a full range of blocks, clutches, cars and travelers from the leading brands Spinlock, Harken, Selden, and Ronstan. Be it a cruising boat wanting to maximize ease of use for all of running systems, or a high performance dinghy or racing yacht wanting to minimize weight, we will provide a product suited to your needs.

New Sails & Sail Covers

If you’re considering replacing your sails or sail covers, please get in touch with us through our  contact  portal. Our team has decades of experience in both cruising and racing and we’ve partnered with the most talented and detail oriented sailmakers and canvas specialists in the Tampa Bay area to offer you a comprehensive sail replacement service.

Our sail replacement service includes: Consultation – we’ll help you choose the sail material and cut that best suits your needs.

Measurement – if you fall within our service area we’ll come out to your boat and take precise measurements to make sure that your new sails perform optimally. We’ll also advise you regarding the variety of sail covers, mainsail storage systems, and sail furling systems available.

Installation – when your crisp new sails or sail covers are ready we’ll come out to your vessel and install them, to make sure they fit and perform exactly as needed.

Stern Arch & Davit Systems

If you are looking to store your tender on your stern, we have you covered. From large stern arches to smaller davit systems. We’ve partnered with suppliers from across the US to bring you the most cost effective, aesthetically pleasing, and practical solutions to this complex issue. We can also supply fully integrated solar and wind systems on top of our stern arches that will get you off the grid and ready to go out into the big blue!

Anchoring & Windlass Systems

We supply and install new windlasses, anchors, anchor chain, rode, and all the accessories in between. We can fabricate custom mounting platforms, install all the necessary switches, wiring, fuses, and additional batteries if needed.

Marine Electronics

At The Yacht Rigger we offer a comprehensive marine electronics service that includes new system installation, existing system troubleshooting, parts replacement, new system integration or additions, new battery banks and much more. Let our partnered ABYC certified technicians come out to take a look at your electrical needs and we’ll make sure you have an efficient, well integrated system up and running in no time.

Google Reviews

“ “ Stephen does regular work for me on rigging. He is very knowledgeable and dependable. First rate! ” Robert K
“ “ Steve and his crew listened to what we needed, then stopped by our just purchased 1997 Catalina 38 to look it over. In 10 minutes they diagnosed the issue, proposed a solution, removed the sail, gave me an estimate on money and time and off they went. Came in right on budget, hit the completion date on the mark, sent me photos to see the final product. Thoroughly professional and timely. I'd recommend these guys anytime, an will have them back on our boat as we need them for sure. ” Mike Conroy
“ “ Extremely knowledgeable in repair or upgrades to not just rigging, but all systems of sailboats. Professional and prompt service. These guys have helped my wife and I outfit our boat for live aboard cruising. From rigging replacement to solar panel install and also repair of systems specific to our boat, we couldn't have done it without them. Fair, reasonably priced, and always available for questions. 5 stars plus, nothing more I can say. ” Zach Duncan
“ “ These are the most professional guys I've met in the marine industry in St. Pete. They were very helpful in getting my boat ready for passage on a tight timeline. The job was done in time and on budget, but what really sets them apart is the fantastic communication. Highly recommend! ” Nate Mortensen
“ “ Great service. These guys are very knowledgeable. ” Pat M

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  • HVAC & Refrigeration Services
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ARCH INSTALLATION TIPS

  • Measure where you think The arch feet are going to land on the back of the boat, pick either the front or back leg landing positions and measure the span. Check for backing plate/nut access at these positions.
  • Assemble the arch laying on dock and slide the sides into the bridge evenly until the leg span you measured is Approx 5-6” wider than your goal span. Tape the joints at the bridge using masking tape to stop it sliding further in when you are test fitting.
  • Measure the “drop” from where you think the forward legs will land and the aft legs will land and trim the forward legs. Accordingly. I usually leave them a couple inches longer than I think they need to be, and do the final trim once I’m at the mocking up stage.
  • Assemble the arch feet and install them, using string to secure them to the arch legs using a rolling hitch.
  • Use a block and tackle or a truckers hitch to squeeze the legs together to match the span you are aiming for. No more than 6”.
  • Hoist arch into position using topping lift or main halyard  (and two people) and test fit. At this point you can measure exactly how much you need to trim off the forward legs to make the arch fit level.
  • If the arch needs to sit lower, once you have it level, you can trim both legs the same amount. Keep in mind that as the arch gets shorter the span will narrow slightly due to the geometry of the arch.
  • Once you like the position, mark the feet in their positions using sharpie and lower the arch back to the dock. Release the block and tackle and drill/bolt the bridge. Drill and epoxy/bolt the feet into position.
  • Hoist the arch again and check all landing positions on feet one final time. Mark bolt holes on gelcoat and move arch out of the way for drilling. Try to pick the forward or aft feet and do them in pairs, pick whichever set you think will allow you to bolt it down securely then pivot the arch back or forward to do the other pair after (check orientation of arch feet for pivot ability).
  • Through bolt all feet and tighten. If fitting to an uneven surface, back fill the area behind the plate with thickened epoxy.
  • Tighten all bolts on foot bases.

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Salt Creek Marina and Yard Rules & Regulations (DIY & Storage)

“Common Sense, Compliance with Laws, Consideration Toward Others” (January 1, 2023)

This agreement shall be effective on the date hereunder by and between the undersigned Owner or Agent of the vessel(s) hereinafter (“Vessel Owner”) described below and Salt Creek Marina, Inc. and The Yacht Rigger LLC located at 107 15th Ave SE, St. Petersburg, FL 33701.

8/21/2023 UPDATE – If a hurricane system becomes a named storm and your boat is in one of our wet slips you MUST move it back to its original berth. The boat is not allowed to stay. The owner is responsible for planning with their preferred captain, or The Yacht Rigger has two captains on staff.

1. Fees: The Yacht Rigger and Salt Creek Marina reserves the right to change its rates upon one (1) months’ notice.

  • Monohull DIY Dry Storage will be $900 monthly or $225 weekly, with a minimum of 1 week required. After the first 4 weeks, the rate will increase by $50 per week, for the remainder of the boat’s duration.
  • Monohull Wet Slip will be $1,100 monthly or $275 weekly, with a minimum fee of $100.
  • Catamaran Wet Slip will be $2200 monthly or $550 weekly.
  • Haul / Block / Relaunch – One Time Charge $12 per foot
  • Emergency Haulout – $25 per foot
  • Short Haul – – – Special Haul to be scheduled by The Yacht Rigger or approved contractor only + $175 contractor fee (includes normal haul out rate)

2. Insurance: Vessel owners must provide insurance with Salt Creek listed as additional insurer on their vessel before arrival. Vessels must always be insured.

3. Hurricane & Summer Storm Season: June 1 – November 30 Haul out boats for storage or DIY work on the hard during this time are required to remove all canvas (including but not limited to Bimini, sail covers, dodgers, e.g.) as well as all sails on the boom or furlers. Remove all moveable equipment: canvas, sails, dinghies from davits, cushions, water toys, grills, biminis, roller furling sails, etc. Canvas and sails must be stored below and not on deck. Lash down everything you cannot remove tillers, wheels, booms.

4. Live Aboard – Wet Slip Only (Yacht Rigger Only Rule): Starting January 1st, 2024, customers may NOT stay on their vessel during electrical refit work or other major modifications or upgrades down below. Due to the nature of these projects requiring major upheaval down below within your living space and the need for our teams to work efficiently. Rigging and “above deck” type work will permit liveaboards. As much as we would love to accommodate liveaboards during this time, it is simply too inefficient for us and expensive for you, the customer. For vessels with excessive items on board preventing efficient work, we will provide on-site storage pods at market rates.

5. Third Party Warranties: This includes any warranty claim that is to be made against the original manufacturer or seller of the vessel or product. Should a warranty claim arise, The Yacht Rigger will estimate the job accordingly. It will then be up to the customer to obtain approval from the applicable 3rd party (boat manufacturer, spar manufacturer, etc.). If approved & immediately upon completion of the warranty issues, the customer is solely responsible for the payment of the work completed. It is then the responsibility of the customer to be reimbursed by the applicable 3rd party.

6. Yard Hours: The boatyard hours are 8:00am to 6:00pm, Monday- Sunday. The boatyard gate locks at 6:00pm. You may come check on your vessel, re-secure rigging, canvas and pump out water during business hours. Please check in with the office if you are near closing hours.

7. Utilities: Boatyard provides power & water to vessel owners as a part of their agreement so long as the owner fully adheres to all Rules and Regulations. When you are finished with the water hoses, turn them off and place them back neatly in the area you found them. Please ask a Salt Creek Marina Boatyard Employee for access to either option.

8. Outside Contractors/ Subcontractors With Management approval (determined individually) contractors may work on a storage vessel for a fee of $40 a day in addition to monthly storage/dockage fee. The owner shall be responsible for informing the office of any subcontractor working on the vessel for any purpose whatsoever. The subcontractor shall submit insurance before any work can commence. Salt Creek Marina and/or The Yacht Rigger reserves the right at its sole discretion to stop unsafe work practices and if deemed necessary to order the offending worker(s) to leave the site at the Owner’s/Skipper’s sole risk and expense.

9. Supplies: All paint including but not limited to, bottom paint, primer or barrier paint, haul or topside paint, varnish or otherwise any paint being applied to your vessel must be purchased through the Boatyard or approved by Management. This policy is for safety and environmental protection purposes of all persons operating in the Boatyard. Paint will normally arrive within 24hrs of purchase.

10. Paint Spraying: There shall be no spraying in the Boatyard under any condition. Any person spraying any paint will be immediately expelled and fines levied.

11. Cleanliness: All vessel owners shall be responsible for keeping their area clean and professional. The Boatyard reserves the right to charge the vessel owner for any cleanup required to comply with RR. All debris associated with boat repair activities must be disposed of daily. A dumpster is located near the parking area.

12. Disposal: There is a designed disposal station of 55 gal drums for oil and one for oily rags and filters located near the office door. PLEASE DO NOT PUT GASOLINE IN THESE DRUMS.

13. Facilities: Bathrooms are provided as a courtesy to all Customers. We will make our best efforts to keep it clean but reserve the right to limit access any time. Please use the outside sink for heavy clean up and use the indoor head/sink for bathroom purposes only. The Yacht Rigger has its own set of facilities to be used by its staff and customers. Please do not use SCM facilities.

14. Parking: Park in the designated parking area. Vehicles should be parked clear of travel lift path, not in storage areas, on the seawall or blocking boats. Salt Creek Marina and/or The Yacht Rigger is not responsible for vehicles that are damaged by equipment or conditions in the yard

15. Regarding noise outside of the scope of work not being completed, i.e., radio/stereo volume, please be respectful of neighboring boat owners’ tenants.

16. Salt Creek Marina and/or The Yacht Rigger is not responsible for any theft or loss of items left on or around the vessel.

17. The yard takes no responsibility for accidents, injury, or death to any persons in or working within the yard at any time. All people wishing to enter the boatyard for any reason do so at their own risk.

18. Failure to comply with these rules and conditions can result in additional charges if Salt Creek Marina and/or The Yacht Rigger personnel are required to do site cleanup operations and/or will be asked to remove your boat from the marina.

19. Additional Rules:

  • Owners are not permitted to test engines, run water for AC or other purposes while on the hard. All electricity and water shall be for the sole purpose of working on their vessel and disconnected when unoccupied.
  • There are to be no mobile AC / Heater Units or Refrigeration Units to be run on the hard.
  •  No unfurling of sails will be permitted at any time, under any circumstance.
  • There is to be no hot work, flame cutting, welding etc. to be done in the yard.
  • Jack stands and blocking may only be used and moved by employees of Boatyard.
  • Boatyard reserves the right to move vessels when needed without permission or notifying owners.
  • Any trailer, dingy, mast, or other personal property not directly attached to the vessel must be pre-approved, additional charges will apply if approved.
  • Packages – you are welcome to send packages to our address here, but please make sure they state your name and “CO The Yacht Rigger” and limit your packages to 5 a week.

Any modifications outside of these rules will be determined individually by Management. REMEMBER THESE RULES & REGULATIONS ARE FOR EVERYONE’S BENEFIT. PLEASE HELP KEEP THIS BOAT YARD A CLEAN & SAFE WORKPLACE. ** Salt Creek reserves the right to change these rules at any time.

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brothersritter.com

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Boat Repair

Sailboat Specialists

Boat Transport

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Boat Transport, Boat Hauling, Sailboat Transport, Sailboat Hauling, Move Your Boat, Move My Boat

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Fiberglass repair, Gelcoat repair

About Brothers Ritter Marine

Since 2015, Brothers Ritter Marine has been known for an unparalleled level of workmanship when it comes to boat repair. We are committed to quality and we let our work speak for itself. We are now offering made-to-order standing rigging. With the ability to swage stays, shrouds, and lifelines in-house, we are the ONLY company in the KC area to offer this service. We can also produce cables, custom for your deck or any architectural need. Do you need theatrical cables made? Give us a call, we're happy to help!

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Hours of Operation

We're usually at the shop 9-5. We're out in the sticks though, so give us a ring before you make the drive we might be sailing.

Closed on Saturday and Sundays- definitely out sailing.

Get in Touch

994 NW 1651st Rd, Bates City, MO 64011, USA

[email protected]

Zac 6602320578   Seth 8162403420

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Sail Service and Repair

1-800-639-9907

Hallett Canvas & Sails, Inc. LOGO

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Sail Service

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Affiliates:

  • D&M Distributors
  • Dimension Polyant

We can repair almost anything! From minor repairs to extensive damages, regardless of the brand, Hallett Canvas & Sails will provide repair services that will not only complete the specific repair but will also carefully examine the entire sail or canvas item to ensure quality product before completion. As long as the material in the sail or canvas product is not rotten or unserviceable, we can repair it. For prompt service at reasonable rates, bring your sail in on a Monday with repairs done by the following Friday, just in time for the weekend, even in the busy season!

Winter Service

Sail Winter Service

At our 5000sq. ft. loft, we carefully wash, check, repair, evaluate and store your sails and canvas. In 2011 we added our specially designed wash tank which circulates the cleaning products among the sails and canvas to get a thorough cleaning. After the Canvas and sails soak, they are pulled or removed from the tank, lightly scrubbed, and rinsed. They are then dried, carefully wrapped and stored until your boat is ready for them. Our service has no hidden costs. For the low price we wash your sails or canvas, evaluate the sail or canvas condition, give you an hour of repair labor, and provide storage for the winter.

Sail Re-cuts

Often a sails shape is blown out and baggy, nevertheless the integrity of the cloth is still good. This is common among older Dacron sails. Dacron is great because it will last a long time but it will also eventually stretch over time. We can re-cut the shape of the sail to increase its performance and your ability to trim it properly. We can also re-cut sails that have never trimmed correctly, that were purchased from other lofts. Re-cutting is not just confined to sails. We also alter and correctly fit canvas that is baggy, or too tight.

Evaluations

We can give you a professional evaluation of your sails or canvas. This is standard with winter service to let you know how well your sails or canvas are holding together. This is a FREE service that we provide. We also do evaluations for insurance and brokerage deals.

Rigging Service

At Hallett Canvas & Sails we service many makes of Genoa Furling and Main Furling Units, Main Flaking Systems, Dutchman Systems, Lazy Jack Systems and Strong Tides Systems, just to name a few. We can come to you or you can come to us!

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Hallett Canvas produces the very best cruising sails, racing sails, sailboat canvas, powerboat canvas, commercial canvas and sail rigging products in Maine.

Residents Outside Moscow Protest Power Outage, Demand Heating Amid Subzero Temperatures

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Residents of a Moscow region town impacted by power outages have taken to the streets, demanding that local authorities restore heat to their homes as subzero temperatures grip the region, Russian media reported Friday.

At least 21,000 people had power knocked out in their homes on Thursday morning in the town of Podolsk when a heating main burst at the Klimovsk Specialized Ammunition Plant, according to the Kommersant business daily.

The circumstances surrounding the incident at the plant in Podolsk, located some 50 kilometers south of Moscow, have not been disclosed.

The Telegram news channel Ostorozhno Moskva published a video of several local residents who gathered in the town's central square to demand the authorities restore their heating, as well as punish those responsible for the outage.

“The police arrived quickly to disrupt us. I wish they’d brought back heating as fast as they dispatched the cops,” the person recording the video could be heard saying.

A Change.org petition with identical demands was launched online, which, by Friday evening, was   signed by nearly 2,000 people.

“Since more than 24 hours have passed, we ask to punish all those involved in this emergency,” the petition reads, naming Podolsk Mayor Grigory Artamonov and the heads of local utilities as the culprits.

Households in the Moscow region towns of Khimki, Balashikha, Solnechnogorsk, Lyubertsy and Elektrostal also experienced heating loss  as a result of power outages, with temperatures in the area plummeting to minus 20 degrees Celsius, according to the investigative news website iStories. 

The Podyom news outlet, without citing its sources, reported that prosecutors have launched an investigation into the outages.

… we have a small favor to ask.

As you may have heard, The Moscow Times, an independent news source for over 30 years, has been unjustly branded as a "foreign agent" by the Russian government. This blatant attempt to silence our voice is a direct assault on the integrity of journalism and the values we hold dear.

We, the journalists of The Moscow Times, refuse to be silenced. Our commitment to providing accurate and unbiased reporting on Russia remains unshaken. But we need your help to continue our critical mission.

Your support, no matter how small, makes a world of difference. If you can, please support us monthly starting from just 2. It's quick to set up, and you can be confident that you're making a significant impact every month by supporting open, independent journalism. Thank you.

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Moscow Pummeled By Historic Snowfall

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Arctic Could See More Rain Than Snow By 2060 as Region Warms – Study

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St. Petersburg Winter Temps Could Rise 4 Degrees by 2050 – Scientist

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Despite 'Unusual' Sunshine, Moscow is on the Verge of Freezing

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Jet Aviation Moscow Vnukovo Earns FAA Repair Station Approval

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eastward ho sailboat for sale

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  • Boats for Sale

24' eastward ho cruisers.

24' Eastward Ho

ARCHIVED: This is a previously listed vessel and is no longer offered for sale If you would like assistance locating a similar vessel, Click Here to locate a similar boat

Designed by Eldredge-McInnis and built by Portsmouth Yacht Co., the Eastward Ho is a compact yet roomy sloop designed for family cruising in comfort. She is a proven design which combines traditional elegance with practical accommodations. Nothing has been overlooked to satisfy both the sailor and the cruising enthusiast. Her generous headroom, two berths, full galley, and enclosed head are unique on a boat of this size. Her spacious cockpit affords seats long enough for an afternoon nap or additional overnight guests. Sailing or under power she is lively and responsive with a motion reminiscent of a much larger boat. Her ample beam and sufficient ballast make her very stiff without sacrificing valuable draft.

Attabuoy  is in need of general cleaning inside and out and some cosmetic work. The keel will need some minor fiberglass work. The sails are like new. The engine turns over, but has not been operated for a number of years. Take a look and you will fall in love!

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Hull color - white

Deck color - cream

Keel - internal lead

Cockpit Cushions

Stern Ladder

Opening Ports - 2

Pressure Water

Refrigerator

Battery - 1 (most likely is dead)

Shorepower 110V

Roller Furling

Depthsounder

Cradle - steel

Anchors - 3

Anchor Rode - 2

Fire Extinguisher

Life Jackets

Main - white, Dacron, The Yacht Sailmakers

Main Cover - blue, Sunbrella

Genoa - white, Dacron, The Yacht Sailmakers

Summer & Winter - Torresen Marine, Inc., Muskegon, Michigan

For more information or details, please contact Steve Dake, Director of Sailboat Sales, at (231) 759-8596 or by email at [email protected] .

Steve has been in the marine business for over 40 years. Please use his knowledge and experience to help you find the right boat for your needs.

Because we value your time, please call and make an appointment prior to visiting. Your scheduled appointment helps ensure the ability to board and see the boat you would like to preview. Please wear boat shoes only to board all boats. The only exceptions are non-marking treads. Thank you!

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Eastward HO 24, 1977 sailboat

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eastward ho 24 for sale

  • eastward ho 24

1976 CE Ryder Eastward Ho 24 sailboat for sale in Connecticut

1976 CE Ryder Eastward Ho 24 sailboat for sale in Connecticut

Ce ryder eastward ho 24.

Built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth Yacht Co., Rhode Island, USA, this stout pocket cruiser is a solid full-keel sailing vessel. Omoo has had a lot...

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2014 Haynie 24 HO | 25ft

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eastward ho sailboat for sale

Portsmouth Eastward Ho Boats for sale

1976 PORTSMOUTH Eastward Ho

1976 PORTSMOUTH Eastward Ho

Neptune, New Jersey

Make PORTSMOUTH

Model Eastward Ho

Category Sailboats

Posted Over 1 Month

1976 PORTSMOUTH Eastward Ho All of the prep work has been done and she's just about ready for paint. This is a great opportunity for someone looking to customize an Eastward Ho their way and do it cheap!   Seller has all parts to complete this project. Also available separately is the completely rebuilt 14HP Volvo MD7A Diesel engine, ready to be placed in the boat.  Top to Bottom rebuild was performed by world renowned Monmouth Marine Engines of Brielle NJ. $3000 Invested.

1976 PORTSMOUTH Eastward Ho

Belmar, New Jersey

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  • Sailboat Guide

Eastward HO 24

Eastward HO 24 is a 23 ′ 7 ″ / 7.2 m monohull sailboat designed by Walter McInnis and built by C. E. Ryder starting in 1975.

Drawing of Eastward HO 24

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

  • SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
  • D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
  • LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
  • LOA: Length overall in feet
  • Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Originally designed for wood contruction. The hulls of the later, FG version were built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth Yacht Co. Diesel power was available as an option.

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eastward ho sailboat for sale

Eastward ho 24 preowned sailboats for sale by owner. Eastward ho 24 used sailboats for sale by owner.

Both salon settees turn into two twin beds so can sleep 4 adults. YEAR: 1977 MAKE: Portsmouth Yacht Co MODEL: Eastward Ho CLASS: Sloop, Pocket Cruiser LENGTH: 26' (24' with 2' boomkin) HULL MATERIAL: FIberglass reinforced plastic FUEL TYPE: Diesel. AIR CONDITIONING: Drop in Cruise Air. ALL PHOTOS ARE RECENT.

1978. 31'. 10'. 4.2'. Florida. $12,900. Description: Airyella is a classic New England style sloop - has incredible character, is very distinctive, and is a pleasure to sail. She is perfect for anyone looking for a boat that will sail, and anchor overnight with 1-5 people, comfortably in the bay and the Keys and beyond, at a fantastic price.

1976. 24'. 9'. 4'. Connecticut. $12,000. Description: Built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth Yacht Co., Rhode Island, USA, this stout pocket cruiser is a solid full-keel sailing vessel. Omoo has had a lot of updates including new diesel engine (Kubota Beta marine), rebuilt gearbox (2021), new standing and running rigging (2020), new ...

Broker: Designed by Eldredge-McInnis and built by Portsmouth Yacht Co., the Eastward Ho is a compact yet roomy sloop designed for family cruising in comfort. She is a proven design which combines traditional elegance with practical accommodations. Nothing has been overlooked to satisfy both the sailor and the cruising enthusiast.

A boat with a BN of 1.6 or greater is a boat that will be reefed often in offshore cruising. Derek Harvey, "Multihulls for Cruising and Racing", International Marine, Camden, Maine, 1991, states that a BN of 1 is generally accepted as the dividing line between so-called slow and fast multihulls.

Model McInnis. Category Sailboats. Length 31'. Posted Over 1 Month. 1985 #1 Hull McInnis,31 ft., 4.5ft. draft, McInnis Cutter rig Eastward Ho series. 28hp Yanmar diesel, All hardwood Interior, Complete custom finished, In bristol condition. Completely blue water equipt.Leave Message at 772/283-0853. $40000.

Go to Sailing Texas classifieds for current sailboats for sale . Eastward HO 24, 1977 LOA 25'5" LWL 20' Beam 8'8" Draft 3'10" SA 283 sq ft Ballast 3,600 Displacement 7,000 Keel Full Designed by Thomas F. Eldredge/Walter J. Mcinnis and built by the Portsmouth Boat Company (UK).

Used 1978 Eastward Ho 31 for sale is located in Bienville National Forest (Mississippi, United States of America). This vessel was designed and built by the Eastward shipyard in 1978. Key features 1978 Eastward Ho 31: length 9.45 meters. engine: fuel type - diesel. 1978 Eastward Ho 31 refers to classes: sailing yachts , sailboats and sailing ...

Seller's Description. Portsmouth Eastward Ho 24, 1978 sailboat for sale I am selling my 1978 Portsmouth Eastward Ho 24 for $12,500. The boat is in Alamitos Bay (Seal Beach, CA / Long Beach, CA) where the buyer may assume the slip at $320 a month. Very nice location, across the street from the new 2nd and PCH outdoor mall.

Go to Sailing Texas classifieds for current sailboats for sale Eastward Ho, 24 ft., 1975 No. 55, 1975. Highly regarded Eldridge/McGinnis cruising design- Full keel, 4 ft. draft. ... The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more. Formula. D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³ ...

Seller's Description. 1980 Portsmouth Yacht Co Eastward Ho 31. She is a classic designed in 1959, built in 1980. Similar to the Sea Sprite 33 that Robin Graham sailed around the world. Custom interior Volvo Penta MD2B 25hp Nice thick teak toe rail Electric Windlass Auto Helm Updated hardware above deck Updated rigging Bimini, dodger frames ...

Search eastward ho 24 prices - more than 1 listings - Built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth Yacht Co., Rhode Island, USA, this stout pocket cruiser is a solid full-keel sailing vessel. ... 1976 CE Ryder Eastward Ho 24 sailboat for sale in Connecticut. Ce Ryder eastward ho 24 . Built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth ...

Boat Trader currently has 3 Eastward boats for sale, including 1 new vessels and 2 used boats listed by both private sellers and professional yacht brokers and boat dealerships mainly in United States. The oldest model listed is a contemporary boat built in 2018 and the newest model year of 2021.

Join Date: Aug 2018. Posts: 3. Eastward Ho 31 Sailboat. Cutter Rig. Eldredge McInnis design, built in RI by C. Ryder Yachts. Roller furling jib. Jib boom & roller for twin furlers. Re-built Volvo Penta 30hp with spare engine & transmission. Bimini & dodger.

35.5' Endeavour E35 Presently on the hard for winter storage at Morgans Marina, New Jersey Asking $35,000

2015 Malibu Wakesetter 22 VLX. Battle Creek, MI. $40,000. 2008 Hydra-Sports 2200 CC. Sarasota, FL. $26,500. 2 new and used Portsmouth Eastward Ho boats for sale at smartmarineguide.com.

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Advertisement. Eastward HO 24 is a 23′ 7″ / 7.2 m monohull sailboat designed by Walter McInnis and built by C. E. Ryder starting in 1975.

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  5. O'Day Widgeon Sailboat Centerboard Repair and Rigging

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  6. Repairing a sailboat stock image. Image of white, beached

    sailboat repair

VIDEO

  1. There´s a hole (holes) in our boat!! Refitting our 42 ft. steelhull sailboat

  2. DIY Repairs on a Sail Boat Engine

  3. THIS BOAT IS TROUBLE! Dealing With Diesel Bug On A Boat!

  4. Keel repair on the Catalina 30

  5. How to Repair OLD Sailboat Plumbing in a Foreign Port! Patrick Childress Sailing #27

  6. Sunfish Hull Repair

COMMENTS

  1. Sailboat DIY And Repair Tips

    Sailboat DIY And Repair Tips Hug Your Marine Tech! Chances are you've been at the boatyard or marina lately, hovering hopefully as you wait for your boat to get back in the water, checking with your service techs about projects they've been working on to have you all ready for a great season of sailing.

  2. How to Repair Sails On Your Sailboat

    Buy a Sail Repair Kit From Amazon. Patch Repairs. For repairs that are not on a seam, a patch fix is necessary. You can use a Dacron patch for almost everything except spinnakers. Dacron can even stick to many laminate sails on the film side, but not on some resin-based and silicone-covered sails. In addition, dacron tapes come in different ...

  3. Sail Care and Repair

    SCHEDULE YOUR SERVICE. ONE YEAR FREE SAIL CARE: TERMS & CONDITIONS. Valid for one year (12 months) from the ship date. Valid on all boats with a luff length up to 22 meters. Includes all One Design sails. You will automatically be registered for one year (12 months) of free sail care when your new sail is shipped. Normal wear and tear is covered.

  4. Sailboat Hull Repair Guide

    A dent or hole in your sailboat's hull can feel like damage to the entire boat. But if your hull is made from fiberglass, you may have more options than you initially thought. We put together this sailboat hull repair guide to help! Step One: Preparation. You won't be ready to tackle sailboat hull repair until you know a bit about what to ...

  5. Boat Repair Near Me

    Boat Service. - Boat Mechanic. - Boat Motor Repair. - Jet Ski Repair. - Marine Batteries. - Marine Generator Repair. - Marine Transmission Repair. - Mobile Boat Mechanic. - Outboard Service.

  6. Sail Repairs, Sail Upgrades, & Sail Modifications

    Sail Repairs, Sail Upgrades, & Sail Modifications. PLEASE NOTE: Laminate sails, Mylar/Kevlar, cannot be processed. Some can be repaired or modified, however, so please give us a call at 800-433-7245 or 724-763-1773 before you send them. Keeping an eye on the condition of your sails and making repairs promptly is the key to making sure they last ...

  7. Know How: Sail Repair Kit

    A basic sail repair kit will include the following items. Amounts will vary depending on the size of your boat and the trip you are planning. The amounts noted here would be suitable for a 40-foot yacht planning a transatlantic passage. • 1 pair stainless steel scissors. • 1 pair regular scissors as backup.

  8. Sail Repair What to Do and How to Do It

    The first step in sail repair is assessment: ascertaining just what needs fixing — and in some cases if the sail is worth putting time and materials into. The initial clue regarding a sail's condition is its age. Dacron sailcloth will last approximately 8-10 years (longer if a sail's use is seasonal or infrequent). The amount of abuse and ...

  9. Schedule Boat Service: SkipperBud's Boat Maintenance & Repair

    Our professionals will assess the extent of the damage and provide effective solutions to get your boat back on the water. When your boat's engine needs attention, our experienced technicians are ready to diagnose and repair any issues. We'll ensure your engine operates at peak performance. Give your boat a fresh new look with our body paint ...

  10. Sailboat Deck Repair Guide

    It starts with a basic understanding of your sailboat deck. According. to Sail Magazine, many "decks are cored with end-grain balsa or plywood. with a fiberglass laminate on each side.". If this is the case for you, you. might notice that moisture can work its way into the core of the deck, which.

  11. Gulf Coast Complete Marine

    With over 20,000 square feet of repair space located in Kemah, TX, we are equipped to handle many major jobs and large vessels that other facilities simply cannot. We specialize in the repair, refurbishment, and customization of performance, fishing, and sailing watercraft. Our experts in fiberglass, Kevlar, carbon, polyester, epoxy, and paint ...

  12. Simple Sail Repair

    A number of products proved strong enough and flexible enough to make serviceable repairs. In Stitch-free Sail Repair, (see November 2017) we reviewed repair tapes, epoxy, polyurethane, and a few other common adhesives for usefulness as no-sewing options for sail repair, and in September 2017 we reviewed options for Sunbrella repair. After two ...

  13. Step-by-Step Deck Core Repair

    Cut smaller pieces to fill the larger gaps, and then spread thickened resin over the entire area using a flexible spatula, forcing it into the remaining hair line cracks. Allow to cure. Use 60-80 grit on an orbital sander (or a disk grinder with a very light touch) to sand the new core smooth.

  14. Linthicum Sailmakers Inc.

    We'd be delighted to provide a quote on new sails in a timely manner. Please call us or fill out our easy contact form and indicate you'd like a quote. 856-783-4288. [email protected]. Share. Linthicum Sailmakers Inc., Somerdale, N.J. High quality sailmaking and related services including cleaning, repairs, rigging and used sail.

  15. MarineMax Boat Services: Schedule Maintenance, Repair & Storage

    From providing world-class service with factory-certified technicians to finding marina slips and dry storage locations, your MarineMax team will always be there. Discover top notch boating services with MarineMax. Take part in routine maintenance, engine repairs, boat storage and more. Schedule your service today to ensure your boat is ready ...

  16. Additional Services

    The look of natural wood on a boat is a classic in marine vessels. The technicians at Onyx are proficient in all aspects of wood construction, restoration, and repair. We install bulkheads, modular cabinetry, and any other wood components on board. We can also deliver interior and exterior varnishing to make woodwork look new.

  17. Home

    The Yacht Rigger is a marine specialist group dedicated to marine upgrades and maintenance. From rigging, electrical, lithium batteries, solar, custom metal fabrication, air conditioning, deck hardware and much more. We specialize in all types of yacht rigging, whether your boat is for cruising or racing, our team provides a comprehensive ...

  18. Fiberglass Boat Repair

    About Brothers Ritter Marine. Since 2015, Brothers Ritter Marine has been known for an unparalleled level of workmanship when it comes to boat repair. We are committed to quality and we let our work speak for itself. We are now offering made-to-order standing rigging. With the ability to swage stays, shrouds, and lifelines in-house, we are the ...

  19. Sail repair, cleaning and winter service

    At our 5000sq. ft. loft, we carefully wash, check, repair, evaluate and store your sails and canvas. In 2011 we added our specially designed wash tank which circulates the cleaning products among the sails and canvas to get a thorough cleaning. After the Canvas and sails soak, they are pulled or removed from the tank, lightly scrubbed, and rinsed.

  20. Residents Outside Moscow Protest Power Outage, Demand Heating Amid

    Residents of a Moscow region town impacted by power outages have taken to the streets, demanding that local authorities restore heat to their homes as subzero temperatures grip the region, Russian ...

  21. Jet Aviation Moscow Vnukovo Earns FAA Repair Station Approval

    Jet Aviation Moscow Vnukovo has received FAA repair station approval following a recent audit of its maintenance, repair and overhaul facility.

  22. fast catamaran boats for sale

    40' MTI. ( (SOLD)) Luxury 2009 40 MTI with the Tilt Trailer.$399K This boat is a one-owner powerboat used only in freshwater. Powered with two Mercury 700s stage 3 motors with original 150 HR this boat is nice. "Don't miss out" For viewing please make an appointment with us @ Rockstarboats.com (928)208-8460..... These powerboats use the following propulsion options: outboard engine.

  23. eastward ho sailboat for sale

    Seller's Description. Portsmouth Eastward Ho 24, 1978 sailboat for sale I am selling my 1978 Portsmouth Eastward Ho 24 for $12,500. The boat is in Alamitos Bay (Seal Beach, CA / Long Beach, CA) where the buyer may assume the slip at $320 a month. Very nice location, across the street from the new 2nd and PCH outdoor mall....